You should think about drilling a hole in the tubing where the threaded bung goes, then plug weld it. That way if the weld around the bung cracks it doesn’t simply pull out causing you to crash. Most all tubular Motorsport control arms use this method.
Was coming here to say the same thing. Very nice work being done here, sir! I just did a set of lower arms for my Mustang, too. Video to come at a later date. Thanks for sharing your process with us.
Recommend turning an aluminum or copper heatsink to fit tightly and bolt into the ball joint cup to keep it from warping and improve penetration/ strength and makes certain your ball joints fit when done welding 🙌🤘
Just noticed this was episode 52. This project has been so enjoyable to watch that it seems like half or less of that number. This is without question my fave build on the Tubes currently. Awesome work and keep it coming Mike!!
Nice work. The ball joint taper is likely going to distort when you weld that component in. Usually best to just ream them once they are welded. It should be 7 or 10 degrees if the knuckles are the later vette stuff.
At first i thought a classic was being hacked, but seeing the tig work, jigs, and the design considerations Im 100% sold on this build now as there are plenty of old 308's still, Enzo may roll in his grave tho.
This is just freakin fabricator pr0n. God I love this guy, and this project. Been here since Episode 1 and look forward to being a virtual co-pilot on the first drive.
Those flex torches can be dangerous if you play with them too much while they are hot. I recommend finding your optimal shape while torch is cold. The control arms look amazing! They going to shine on the questionable chasis of the car :)
Blew my mind with that clamp setup and the template. Clever as hell. I'm a little familiar with machine shop stuff but I didn't spend any time at all in the welding shop so this is all witchcraft to me lol.
DOM is not seamed tube. It starts off as a solid bar. It is squeezed and ruined at the same time developing an opening in the centre of the bar. Then a mandrel is pushed into that opening and the walls are formed by rolling.
"Although it is almost always referred to as a SEAMLESS tube, technically it is NOT seamless tubing, and it started life as some sort of EW (electric welded) tubing. During the manufacturing process, the weld line becomes nearly undetectable, thus it is referred to as SEAMLESS. It is considered a high strength, high quality tube, and is normally constructed from SAE 1020 or 1026 steel. DOM is commonly used in the manufacturing of race cars and motorcycle frames. 1020 is normally used in the manufacturing of small-diameter or thin-wall DOM steel tube. 1026 grade is normally used in the manufacturing of DOM over 2" OD, with walls heavier than .156". Depending on the diameter and/or the wall thickness, you may receive EITHER 1020 or 1026." DOM is technically a seamed tube. Its not considered to be by rulebooks, but it absolutely begins with a seam.
I'm surprised you didn't add some nice dimple dies in the gussets... Would look nice and coherent with the rest of the build and because dimple die the world!
Always enjoy your videos and appreciate all the dedication you have for everything you do! Also, i might be the minority here or just me, but i don't like when videos start with an intro showing what we are about to see on the video hahahaha, you can keep doing it if you want, i'll just skip ahead until i see your face 😅😂
i made these same clamps but the harbor freight ones. they work so damn well and cost me 3-4 bucks to make each. i ended up making like 20 of them. and sold them for about 7 bucks each as the people in my shop wanted em and are lazy =) , but hey when someone wants to giver me cheese burger money im always down
I'm not very familiar with heim joints used in this application and wonder how long they last without lubrication or seals to protect them from "stuff". The fab work here is VERY nice. I can't wait to see the assembled suspension with brakes and wheels/tires.
Great video, love the detail. I’d be really interested in how you measure the taper on the ball joint, transfer it to cad and then how the final piece is machined.
That’s for the heim joints. For the taper, it’s available online, it’s just a ° measurement and there’s only a few common ones. A taper ream is used to make it work.
Hey Mike, What the story with the suspension geometry ? How did you get to the point that those arm lengths? Have you calculated using sw such as racing aspirations?!
@@stanceworks Haha, no, I mean the way they are bolted for welding is the way you want them to be. The way you have them in the drawing and at the end is loading them axially with any front-back force going through the arm.
Sorry, realised I said the wrong thing after watching your latest video. The way you have them in the CAD model and the way you seem to be mounting them (mimicking the bushings they replace), isn't ideal. The way in the drawing is how you want them. They still work the way you have them, just not as strong and risk of the balls popping out of the joint if overloaded.
I wonder if you can provide the drawing you made of the double suspension A I would be very grateful. I am a robista and I am not a master of these drawing programs.
Mike if it were me Id build an extra set just in case you have a problem! You know race car issues! You dont wanna be at the track have a control arm fail and have to go home!!
Could you provide the specs for the ball joint eyelet in the upper control arms? Doesn't seem anyone makes off the shelf eyelets you can weld to control arms.
Just me, or did anyone else notice the music at 5:20? Same unlicensed track Alex from LegitStreetCars uses in every video. Not important, just follow both channels and found it a tad funny.👍🏻
@@stanceworks - wow! I looked it up now! One NEVER is done learning!! You are right - Drawn-over-mandrel tubing - DOM tubing is made from a cold-drawn electrical-resistance-welded tube that is drawn through a die and over a mandrel to create such characteristics as dimensional accuracy, dependable weld integrity, and an excellent surface finish. Looking forward to the next one!!
You should think about drilling a hole in the tubing where the threaded bung goes, then plug weld it. That way if the weld around the bung cracks it doesn’t simply pull out causing you to crash. Most all tubular Motorsport control arms use this method.
Very true. I did that on my Model A. I’ll do something here too further down the line. Good call!
Was coming here to say the same thing. Very nice work being done here, sir! I just did a set of lower arms for my Mustang, too. Video to come at a later date. Thanks for sharing your process with us.
Yep... was coming here for the same. No reason for a tube sleeve without utilizing a plug weld.
Mike, you almost made me forget about Project Binky. Your content is pushed by a passion for perfection. Love it man!
Binky is god tier. I’m just trying to learn from them!
Shit. I did forget about project binky. It's been a cool minute since they had a video out.
Sacrilege!
Watch your mouth!!!! Project Binky isn’t something you can joke about.
@@VLXVNDR 👍
you should put "art"between Stance and Works because this is art
Control arms are looking great. Loving the progress. Keep it up.
Thanks a ton! I appreciate it!
The way you use cad makes these projects seem so much easier and accurate
That’s the whole idea! Keep it simple.
weird that this channel doesnt have closer to a million subs - such unique projects and very high quality vids.
Recommend turning an aluminum or copper heatsink to fit tightly and bolt into the ball joint cup to keep it from warping and improve penetration/ strength and makes certain your ball joints fit when done welding 🙌🤘
Just noticed this was episode 52. This project has been so enjoyable to watch that it seems like half or less of that number. This is without question my fave build on the Tubes currently. Awesome work and keep it coming Mike!!
Nice work. The ball joint taper is likely going to distort when you weld that component in. Usually best to just ream them once they are welded. It should be 7 or 10 degrees if the knuckles are the later vette stuff.
That’s a good point. Maybe I’ll go that route.
I've been binge watching this build and it's incredible how well everything is documented. One day I'll have a place to work on my own cars.
Just like in the old stanceworks site days I just enjoy your photography work and now cinematography. Great content.
Can't believe that there are only 61k subs on this channel... It should be atleast 100 times more
Patience will get us there someday! Thanks for the support.
Such an elegant, yet effective way of building control arms. Kudos to you, Master Stanceworks
Thank you for providing Closed Captions!
Fabrication skills on point! I love watching you work and fabricate. So much motivation
Amazing build
Thanks for letting me come over in this journey 👍👍👍👍👍👍
This channel so under rated. Should be like 500k subscribers, the work you do is inspirational 💥💯💯
We’re on our way
Looking good. Can't wait to see it on it's wheels with the new setup.
Man I really enjoy your fab skills and attention to detail. Nothing is good enough except perfection. 👍
Best build on TH-cam right now
Those clamps are serious Big Brain inventions. I'd never have thought to use the diagonal tension on the bolt as the force to hold the clamp in place.
Thank god for notifications 🙏🏼 really look forward to these episodes 👌
Man watching this just reminds me how much I need a fab table. There will always be another tool to add to the collection. Great work!
OMG you are an artist.
So impressed you gave this a go yourself.
👏💪😎
Thanks for the consistency of the videos, I look forward to them at this point. Hope the smooth sailing continues with the project
Great work as usual! It's all starting to come together so quickly!
At first i thought a classic was being hacked, but seeing the tig work, jigs, and the design considerations Im 100% sold on this build now as there are plenty of old 308's still, Enzo may roll in his grave tho.
Make sure you plug weld the bungs. Drill a hole in the side of the DOM and weld the bung in there as well.
This is just freakin fabricator pr0n.
God I love this guy, and this project.
Been here since Episode 1 and look forward to being a virtual co-pilot on the first drive.
It’s only going to get more fun from here!
Great work as always, we already know its gonna be killer!
Please keep this format. Jump right into the action. "Skip the preamble..." - Tony Soprano
Even with such a tight timeline, you have a great attitude and still fill us in on all this cool stuff!!
Great episode Mike! Love this build. You make it look easy.
Those flex torches can be dangerous if you play with them too much while they are hot. I recommend finding your optimal shape while torch is cold. The control arms look amazing! They going to shine on the questionable chasis of the car :)
It is good to see you are able to keep progress! I will celebrate it with a small drink when you finished with this masterpiece! 🥃🤠
My favourite build since Binky!!!
Wow flexing head welding is the future!!! I wish I had that when I was working in shops.
i love the new stance works intro.
also the clamps you converted are a great idea. I'm stealing that :)
Wow man, thats impressive!!!!
Where were the components purchased and why did you choose those particular brands/products?
Nice old school tech drawering, just like John Britten, Keep up the good work.
Blew my mind with that clamp setup and the template. Clever as hell. I'm a little familiar with machine shop stuff but I didn't spend any time at all in the welding shop so this is all witchcraft to me lol.
I’m glad it’s interesting and fun to watch!
Thanks for the real world approach to stuff man. Work looks great!
Great stuff, Mike! Keep up the good work!
That intro was sick!
Look SO good dude. Great fab.
This is the best build ever
Should put a dimple die in those brace plates for added aesthetics
Excellent WORK A+++
Great video , excellent narration too, full of fab tips much appreciated.
Awesome! Very inspiring!
look really good i need to make some for my car , thanks for sharing keep up the good work
Awesome Mike !!!!
very rad mike! great update!
Exceptional work, love the thought process 👍👍
Nice work💪
Great job Mike !!!
DOM is not seamed tube. It starts off as a solid bar. It is squeezed and ruined at the same time developing an opening in the centre of the bar. Then a mandrel is pushed into that opening and the walls are formed by rolling.
"Although it is almost always referred to as a SEAMLESS tube, technically it is NOT seamless tubing, and it started life as some sort of EW (electric welded) tubing. During the manufacturing process, the weld line becomes nearly undetectable, thus it is referred to as SEAMLESS. It is considered a high strength, high quality tube, and is normally constructed from SAE 1020 or 1026 steel. DOM is commonly used in the manufacturing of race cars and motorcycle frames.
1020 is normally used in the manufacturing of small-diameter or thin-wall DOM steel tube. 1026 grade is normally used in the manufacturing of DOM over 2" OD, with walls heavier than .156". Depending on the diameter and/or the wall thickness, you may receive EITHER 1020 or 1026."
DOM is technically a seamed tube. Its not considered to be by rulebooks, but it absolutely begins with a seam.
Thanks for inspiring me to get Fusion and learn it. Its not as hard as I thought it was.
Fusion is easy! Glad you’re giving it a go
Very impressive!
Well Done.
Great video!
Damn 😎👏👏 Very impressive work
I'm surprised you didn't add some nice dimple dies in the gussets... Would look nice and coherent with the rest of the build and because dimple die the world!
You’ll see why later :)
Always enjoy your videos and appreciate all the dedication you have for everything you do! Also, i might be the minority here or just me, but i don't like when videos start with an intro showing what we are about to see on the video hahahaha, you can keep doing it if you want, i'll just skip ahead until i see your face 😅😂
Awesome Mike
i made these same clamps but the harbor freight ones. they work so damn well and cost me 3-4 bucks to make each. i ended up making like 20 of them. and sold them for about 7 bucks each as the people in my shop wanted em and are lazy =) , but hey when someone wants to giver me cheese burger money im always down
WILL WELD FOR CHEESE BURGERS!... and diet soda.... stupid betus
Lookin good!
I'm not very familiar with heim joints used in this application and wonder how long they last without lubrication or seals to protect them from "stuff". The fab work here is VERY nice. I can't wait to see the assembled suspension with brakes and wheels/tires.
Great sruff
Super Dope 👍
Hi, can you give some information on your bender dies CLR for making control arms or rollcages. thanks
Great video, love the detail. I’d be really interested in how you measure the taper on the ball joint, transfer it to cad and then how the final piece is machined.
In the last episode he mentioned that the CAD files for the ball joints are available from the manufacturer, so he just loaded them right in.
That’s for the heim joints. For the taper, it’s available online, it’s just a ° measurement and there’s only a few common ones. A taper ream is used to make it work.
Hey Mike,
What the story with the suspension geometry ?
How did you get to the point that those arm lengths? Have you calculated using sw such as racing aspirations?!
@stanceworks I came here to ask the same thing.
I’m going to try and cover more of this in the next video. Racing Aspirations is an amazing calculator and I’ve been using it!
How did you figure out the ball joint taper angle for the rod end stud adapter?
Will you be heat treating the control arms when finished?
No angle on the ball joint cups?
Unlike bushes, rose joints are really supposed to be loaded radially rather than axially. Can you rotate them by 90°?
I did at the end. They’re flat just for Template purposes.
@@stanceworks Haha, no, I mean the way they are bolted for welding is the way you want them to be. The way you have them in the drawing and at the end is loading them axially with any front-back force going through the arm.
Sorry, realised I said the wrong thing after watching your latest video. The way you have them in the CAD model and the way you seem to be mounting them (mimicking the bushings they replace), isn't ideal. The way in the drawing is how you want them.
They still work the way you have them, just not as strong and risk of the balls popping out of the joint if overloaded.
Will you plan on using shims at the chassis mounting to adjust for camber and castor?
The heims will adjust for camber and caster by turning them in and out.
I wonder if you can provide the drawing you made of the double suspension A I would be very grateful. I am a robista and I am not a master of these drawing programs.
Mike if it were me Id build an extra set just in case you have a problem! You know race car issues! You dont wanna be at the track have a control arm fail and have to go home!!
Could you provide the specs for the ball joint eyelet in the upper control arms? Doesn't seem anyone makes off the shelf eyelets you can weld to control arms.
I had them made by a machine shop
@stanceworks6544 I'm using similar corvette uprights but custom controls arms. Could you share the specs?
I don’t know them off hand. It’s just bored with a taper matching the ball joint.
👌🏻
Hi Mike, do you offer this work?
I don’t, apologies.
Just me, or did anyone else notice the music at 5:20? Same unlicensed track Alex from LegitStreetCars uses in every video. Not important, just follow both channels and found it a tad funny.👍🏻
Everyone uses music from the same site. Watch long enough and you'll hear we're alllll using the same 200 or so songs.
Get some tig gloves. You don’t deserve to get skin cancer down the line. Love the build and channel.
I lathered up in sun screen before tacking everything up!
eeey doggo
💟💟💟🤘
Comment
DOM - ..."seamed tube"???
Isn't DOM "seamless"??🤔
It’s considered to be seamless by rule books but no. It’s not technically a seamless tube. It’s welded tube that’s been drawn over a mandrel.
@@stanceworks - wow! I looked it up now! One NEVER is done learning!!
You are right - Drawn-over-mandrel tubing - DOM tubing is made from a cold-drawn electrical-resistance-welded tube that is drawn through a die and over a mandrel to create such characteristics as dimensional accuracy, dependable weld integrity, and an excellent surface finish.
Looking forward to the next one!!
dad
cornhole olympics????? bruhh where do you come up with these titles lmao
Should of sent them to China. The ten year old in the sweat shops can weld better than you Kermit
:)