So many injectors got unnecessarily replaced because of these bad pigtails. Nice video, i have a pigtail and all the tools needed to do any of the pigtails in my truck toolbox...cuz my vehicles never fail until i leave the state!
One thing I noticed and folks should be aware of this..the 2017 and newer trucks the fuel filter in located underneath the truck in front of the fuel tank. So those fuel lines that are disconnected in the engine bay is all clean fuel that has been filtered. You don't want a single spec of anything in those lines or you could take an injection pump out,fuel pressure regulator out,injector,injectors out. Now,the 2001 to the 2016 Duramaxs have the fuel filter in the engine bay to where the fuel has not been filtered at those fuels lines where they were disconnected. You still wanna be careful tho. What I do is rinse the engine bay off,or use some compressed air and lightly blow the dust off,use a gallon zip lock bag and cover up fuel lines and zip tie them back to the brake booster. Put a zip lock bag on the hard lines as well,then there is no question of cleanliness. Thanks for the videos!!
My 2019 with 64k just hit this exact issue. Cylinder 4! I can cycle the the truck on and off and sometimes it physically actually occurs with clear rpm shake and then I turn off and restart and no longer occurring. I’m convinced it’s this harness, outstanding video and fix thank you! UPDATE: I completed the repair and man.. not only did it fix the issue, it’s like I have a completely different truck. I bought my 19’ used a year and a half ago, and my throttle response now after fixing is absolutely nuts and gonna have to retrain my foot. And my shift range is more accurate and smooth. There must had been issues the whole time but it didn’t throw a code until rpm shake started to occur. Great product and great video. Again, Thanks a bunch!
I do remember when my dad got his 2017 2500 the throttle response was what I assumed a corvette must feel like. It was nasty. But after 2 years it felt more sluggish. It shot this same code 2 weeks ago. Gonna replace the pigtail and see if it's back to normal like you said
Just had this happen on mine. 58k miles and GM wouldn't help with costs at all. They also charged me 170$ to read the codes and tell me they are not going to warranty it. So it's off to do it myself. Thanks for this video.
Thanks to this very detailed video my brother's 2017 Chevrolet Duramax 2500 6.6 diesel is now back to life. Thanks a whole bunch for your help. Problem was injector #4 pigtail.
I just ran into the same issue last week on my 2020 Sierra HD. Number 4 as well. I replaced it myself but ended up trading the truck in for a 2023 the other day. At least I know what the issue is and I now have a spare injector connector for the future if necessary. Oh, I have a Blue Driver scan tool.
Worked for my Truck. I have 2018 Silverado 2500 HD with just over 90k miles. Bought the new pigtail at O’Reillys for $40. You can get them on line for under $15 but not sure of the quality.
Chevy is putting defective wire harnesses on all GM vehicles. My 2017 Silverado 2500HD 6.6L has 14 codes for mostly wire harness chafing, voltage grounding and shorting (including the trailer braking system, almost all sensors, DEF pump, tpms, etc.). Chevy wants you to replace your injectors ($1,000 repair) when it is just the wire connectors that are installed too short causing the wires and/or contacts to lose contact ($14 connector). Mine was cylinder 7.
Yeah my 19 same thing first injector #4 and here in canada gm deal wants 250 tax in out raged but got it done not numer 7 so i order it after market one and if it works good im gonna change all of them so no BS down the road. I'll sign that partition anytime lmk.
general motors aware of the issue has made a new part and part number but will not do a recall on it so therefore to cost is on the consumers head what we need to do is starting a class action lawsuit against General Motors
Excellent video and very detailed. My 2017 Duramax just had the same issue three days ago. I'm glad I watched your video because it is very detailed every step of the way. Can you tell me what model and brand code reader you have? I would like to purchase the same one. Again, thanks you making a great video!!!
Currently stranded in the desert.....I have the new pigtail ordered and should be deliver to an Amazon drop box nearby in a few days. I had one question.....did you need to bleed the fuel line or anything since you had to disconnect it? Or just start it up? Oh and did you have to bleed the line before you disconnected the lines?? Thanks in advance!!
No need to relieve the fuel pressure just pull the line off. Then after reconnecting the line just turn the key on without starting it a couple times just to make sure it has built pressure then fire it up and you should be good.
My 2020 duramax is idling like this. 185k on it so it must be time for things to pop up. My check engine light isn't on yet but my scanner diagnostic tool shows lower pressure on one rail vs the other. I scanned the injectors but they are ok. No misfire detected.
I have the same issue but with cylinder #5. I also have the dreaded P026D code which I have had for about 2 months and nothing seems to fix it (MAP sensor). I wonder if the injector not firing correctly causes the P026D code as well which is fuel injection quantity to high?
The name of the pigtail company is so appropriate. Fleece em. Let's change the laws to allow toyota to bring over a nice heavy duty work truck. These domestic car companies operate in a weasel mentality. Fucking annoying. Thanks for the video
Same thing happened to me but it was on the down pipe way in the back center of engine but mine threw a p2033 code and kept push me to bank1 sensor 2 . And that’s not it on the scan it’s sensor 1 dammit gm get on the ball
Will a crimped solution hold up over time, with the engine vibrations? Would a GM dealer do this method, or heat shrink w solder ??? I am asking because I don’t know…. I would just think solder and heat shrink would hold up better than a mechanical crimp long term…. Lemme know thoughts?
I’m interested as I just got the codes at 69,000 miles and the truck is doing exactly what you show. Just wanting to make sure I do the most permanent fix. Thanks for your content, extremely helpful!
I had #4 throw a code at 77k miles. Took it to the dealer and they said it also shorted out the injector. Charged me $2500. Then #7 went out at 132k miles. Same expensive deal. They lied and said it was so crazy amount of labor hours. Now I know I can easily do this myself.
@@jedcarson3769 was 77k out of the five year window? They should have warrantied that…. GM tried to charge me for a leaking axle seal and I was like, read your warranty. No charge. Sad they even try and stick warranty costs on good paying customers! That’s the stealer though, not GM. Stealer = dealer
This is my buddy’s truck and he’s only had one issue with the emissions system when he first bought it. It would not perform a regen but it was still under warranty at the time. Other than that no issues. What issues are you having?
Why did you not perform the diag on this? I checked for voltage at both wires on that pigtail and it's showing within specs. How would replacing it change the injector function if I'm getting proper voltage?
So many injectors got unnecessarily replaced because of these bad pigtails. Nice video, i have a pigtail and all the tools needed to do any of the pigtails in my truck toolbox...cuz my vehicles never fail until i leave the state!
One thing I noticed and folks should be aware of this..the 2017 and newer trucks the fuel filter in located underneath the truck in front of the fuel tank. So those fuel lines that are disconnected in the engine bay is all clean fuel that has been filtered. You don't want a single spec of anything in those lines or you could take an injection pump out,fuel pressure regulator out,injector,injectors out. Now,the 2001 to the 2016 Duramaxs have the fuel filter in the engine bay to where the fuel has not been filtered at those fuels lines where they were disconnected. You still wanna be careful tho. What I do is rinse the engine bay off,or use some compressed air and lightly blow the dust off,use a gallon zip lock bag and cover up fuel lines and zip tie them back to the brake booster. Put a zip lock bag on the hard lines as well,then there is no question of cleanliness. Thanks for the videos!!
My 2018 L5P just threw P0204 and a P0304 today with 90K + miles on it. You're giving me hope! This looks like a good weekend job!
My 2019 with 64k just hit this exact issue. Cylinder 4! I can cycle the the truck on and off and sometimes it physically actually occurs with clear rpm shake and then I turn off and restart and no longer occurring. I’m convinced it’s this harness, outstanding video and fix thank you!
UPDATE:
I completed the repair and man.. not only did it fix the issue, it’s like I have a completely different truck. I bought my 19’ used a year and a half ago, and my throttle response now after fixing is absolutely nuts and gonna have to retrain my foot. And my shift range is more accurate and smooth. There must had been issues the whole time but it didn’t throw a code until rpm shake started to occur. Great product and great video. Again, Thanks a bunch!
I do remember when my dad got his 2017 2500 the throttle response was what I assumed a corvette must feel like. It was nasty. But after 2 years it felt more sluggish. It shot this same code 2 weeks ago. Gonna replace the pigtail and see if it's back to normal like you said
Just had this happen on mine. 58k miles and GM wouldn't help with costs at all. They also charged me 170$ to read the codes and tell me they are not going to warranty it. So it's off to do it myself. Thanks for this video.
Thanks to this very detailed video my brother's 2017 Chevrolet Duramax 2500 6.6 diesel is now back to life. Thanks a whole bunch for your help. Problem was injector #4 pigtail.
Perhaps the best detailed video I've seen. Thanks for the help.
As always, great explanation and nice close up video zooming. Thanks!
I just had the same problem on my truck. I’m gonna try to do this. Thank you for your video. Appreciate it.
Really well done video. Great close up shots of what is going on.
Awesome video with great detail thank you for your help!!! I just ran into the same issue and now I’m confident to do it myself
Your vid helped out more than the ones out there. Thanks lol
Great video. My truck has the exact problem. I'll definitely have the dealership do this. Thanks for your time
I just ran into the same issue last week on my 2020 Sierra HD. Number 4 as well. I replaced it myself but ended up trading the truck in for a 2023 the other day. At least I know what the issue is and I now have a spare injector connector for the future if necessary. Oh, I have a Blue Driver scan tool.
Thank you
You saved me a ton of money
Great video man!!! Look forward to more videos
Worked for my Truck. I have 2018 Silverado 2500 HD with just over 90k miles. Bought the new pigtail at O’Reillys for $40. You can get them on line for under $15 but not sure of the quality.
Excellent video, thank you!
Chevy is putting defective wire harnesses on all GM vehicles. My 2017 Silverado 2500HD 6.6L has 14 codes for mostly wire harness chafing, voltage grounding and shorting (including the trailer braking system, almost all sensors, DEF pump, tpms, etc.). Chevy wants you to replace your injectors ($1,000 repair) when it is just the wire connectors that are installed too short causing the wires and/or contacts to lose contact ($14 connector). Mine was cylinder 7.
Yeah my 19 same thing first injector #4 and here in canada gm deal wants 250 tax in out raged but got it done not numer 7 so i order it after market one and if it works good im gonna change all of them so no BS down the road. I'll sign that partition anytime lmk.
general motors aware of the issue has made a new part and part number but will not do a recall on it so therefore to cost is on the consumers head what we need to do is starting a class action lawsuit against General Motors
Let’s do it
Awsome work, young man
Awesome video Great work!
Excellent video and very detailed. My 2017 Duramax just had the same issue three days ago. I'm glad I watched your video because it is very detailed every step of the way. Can you tell me what model and brand code reader you have? I would like to purchase the same one. Again, thanks you making a great video!!!
I appreciate the positive feedback. My scan tool is the Xtool D7 model from Amazon here's a link to it amzn.to/3QUdMEG
So I just ran a code reader. Said my #5 injector is bad. But everything I'm reading says it's more likely the pigtail.
Amazon has the pigtails for 30.00. I bought 2, and my #4 pigtail needed replaced
Do you know what brand they are?
Part cost maybe $5 to make but sales for $70+ at most places, that is the reason they can put three auto parts stores on one corner.
I was told it's better to leave those covers off cause it just collects dust and dirt under them which causes the harness to go out
Yeah I could see that just another dumb design.
Currently stranded in the desert.....I have the new pigtail ordered and should be deliver to an Amazon drop box nearby in a few days. I had one question.....did you need to bleed the fuel line or anything since you had to disconnect it? Or just start it up? Oh and did you have to bleed the line before you disconnected the lines?? Thanks in advance!!
No need to relieve the fuel pressure just pull the line off. Then after reconnecting the line just turn the key on without starting it a couple times just to make sure it has built pressure then fire it up and you should be good.
My 2020 duramax is idling like this. 185k on it so it must be time for things to pop up. My check engine light isn't on yet but my scanner diagnostic tool shows lower pressure on one rail vs the other. I scanned the injectors but they are ok. No misfire detected.
Problem is the injector connector that seems to get all dirty within due to poor seal. And yes there are 8 connectors.
I have the same issue but with cylinder #5. I also have the dreaded P026D code which I have had for about 2 months and nothing seems to fix it (MAP sensor). I wonder if the injector not firing correctly causes the P026D code as well which is fuel injection quantity to high?
Nick at Duramaxtuner said they are polarity sensitive
The name of the pigtail company is so appropriate. Fleece em. Let's change the laws to allow toyota to bring over a nice heavy duty work truck. These domestic car companies operate in a weasel mentality. Fucking annoying. Thanks for the video
Same thing happened to me but it was on the down pipe way in the back center of engine but mine threw a p2033 code and kept push me to bank1 sensor 2 . And that’s not it on the scan it’s sensor 1 dammit gm get on the ball
23K Views. This must happen a lot!
Yep very common issue GM knows about this and still hasn’t done a recall on it.
Great vide 👍🏻
Will a crimped solution hold up over time, with the engine vibrations? Would a GM dealer do this method, or heat shrink w solder ??? I am asking because I don’t know…. I would just think solder and heat shrink would hold up better than a mechanical crimp long term…. Lemme know thoughts?
I kind of thought the same thing I contacted fleece and they said there hasn’t been a single truck come back from the pigtail being crimped.
I’m interested as I just got the codes at 69,000 miles and the truck is doing exactly what you show. Just wanting to make sure I do the most permanent fix. Thanks for your content, extremely helpful!
I had #4 throw a code at 77k miles. Took it to the dealer and they said it also shorted out the injector. Charged me $2500. Then #7 went out at 132k miles. Same expensive deal. They lied and said it was so crazy amount of labor hours. Now I know I can easily do this myself.
@@jedcarson3769 was 77k out of the five year window? They should have warrantied that…. GM tried to charge me for a leaking axle seal and I was like, read your warranty. No charge. Sad they even try and stick warranty costs on good paying customers! That’s the stealer though, not GM. Stealer = dealer
What kind of scan tool are you using? Love the Duramax videos. I have a 17 L5P and a 05 LLY
It’s from a company called XTool model number D7.
Nice video. Have u had any emission related issues with the dpf components? Thanks
This is my buddy’s truck and he’s only had one issue with the emissions system when he first bought it. It would not perform a regen but it was still under warranty at the time. Other than that no issues. What issues are you having?
Nice video! Does yours shift a little rough out of 2nd to 3rd?
Thank You although this is not my vehicle it did shift a little rough before this repair.
@BLUE COLLAR GARAGE The plug repair worked. My transmission has a a slight kick out of 2nd.
@@BrightthgirB I didn’t really notice that on this truck after the repair.
Did you have to prime the fuel filter after disconnecting the lines?
No need to prime it as soon as you turn that key it builds enough pressure right away.
Injector connection plug
Hello, good afternoon, one question, mine shows the code p026, it says that a lot of fuel is happening, what do you recommend?
Mass air flo?
Why did you not perform the diag on this? I checked for voltage at both wires on that pigtail and it's showing within specs. How would replacing it change the injector function if I'm getting proper voltage?
Once the truck warms up the pigtail gets high resistance in it.
I did it without even taking the cover off.
What scan tool are you using?
It's just the cheaper bidirectional scan tool from XTool the D7 model. amzn.to/48oafp2
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGEThanks!
Almost always cylinder 4 on these
Engineers that designed that should have their sheepskin pulled