Thanks for the suggestion of a dedicated grinding and metal cutting bench.yes those rock particals get into my wooden work bench.and into my work.now I work the grinder in another area of the shop.
On my latest hand grinder the tool rest can be moved to the other side and the crank turned in the opposite direction. Check if yours can be moved. Many of these are made with symmetric mounting holes on the body of the grinder case...
As far as lefty cranking, just mount the grinder the other way with the crank to the left. I'm not sure about your grinder, but mine has identical mounts for the tool rest on both front and back.. probably specifically to allow it to be used lefty.
Really nice video. Good straightforward instruction without extraneous anecdote. Excellent lighting and photography. Would there be any advantage to having a water trough for the wheel to sit in, or is that entirely unnecessary or even detrimental? Your mention of speed control to control heat seems to say that having a wet wheel is not necessary. Would it help to rig a rod and pedal on the crank to use your foot to apply force to the crank on the downstroke, to run the wheel by foot pressure? I can see the importance of a sturdy tool rest. I had considered buying a hand crank wheel without a tool rest, but I think I'll reconsider. Thanks.
Excellent instructional video - especially removing the curvature of the chisel. Thank you. FYI I have a Mole hand grinder which can be set up for a left hand on the crank, but I'm a leftie like you so this is not necessary! Please can you give me any advice on how to set the guides for the desired grinding angle?
the grinding wheel is convex but the resulting bevel is concave from heel to toe. Not sure where you are referring to but it is definitely possible that I misspoke, I was bleeding at the time after all.
You state that lefties should rejoice because you have yet to find a grinder with the crank on the left side so as to allow you to hold the tool with your right hand. FYI: your grinder allows for both a right and left hand operation. Look at the hole in the body of the grinder on the top left side of the crank where the rest is screwed onto. Do you notice another hole on the top right side of the crank? Most all grinders have both sets of holes. Take the rest off the left side and put it on this right hand hole and reposition the grinder on the left side of your table with the crank on your left side. Now you can crank with your left hand!
I bought it at Tools for Working Wood online. Most places don't go above 8-12" in grinding wheels. If you want larger you probably need to seek out an industrial supplier.
You should build a stand to raise the water bucket much higher and underneath the grinding wheel (as close as possible) to catch all the abrasive and swarf. You can also use the same water to cool the tool in the event that it does get too warm. [As an aside], trying to find one of these hand grinders in good condition and with an arbor larger then 3/8th of an inch is like trying to find a piece of straw in a stack of needles. Great videos, keep up the good work.
you shouldn't let the arbor size hold you back. Most grinding wheels come with spacers to fit a variety of arbor sizes. But you can also easily make you own spacer on a lathe.
Yes, I knew about the spacer(s) included with new wheels but unfortunately they only reduce down to 1/2" (and of course most arbors are 3/8"). I have a grinder with the 3/8" that I had to make some spacers for but I'm still seeking that larger arbor unabused grinder - there's one out there somewhere searching for me, calling my name.
Hi Just purchased a pre-loved hand crank bench mounted grinder. The stone youre using seems to be far finer than the one I have on my grinder. You stated it was a Norton, which the make I have but what grade is it. Really useful video thank you
I would have to go find another grinder to do that, but even then it wasn't that interesting. I cleaned off any rust then opened the gearbox and cleaned the gears, closed it up dropped in some oil and replaced the stone. Maybe 20 min of work. The key is finding a grinder that isn't too far gone.
Interesting use of your tools. I generally sharpen with an electric bench grinder but I do like hand crank grinders just because of the shear gizmosity of the rub your head and pat your stomach effort involve in grinding.
I have written several more things on this subject. I can't include links here but look in the video description for a link to an audio convo I had on what to look for when buying one.
Just as a thought, I just bought a couple of these for sharpening various blades and I loaded them with grease, why use oil when grease would have so much more staying power. It would lube the ball bearings for longer and make sure that it won't run dry. Is there a down side to grease that you can see?
Thanks... How much oil did you need for the gears? Is it like a reservoir inside so that the gears are always lubed ?? I was able to find one similar to what you have this past weekend... Just needs cleaned up, degreased, and a new stone..
Hi Shannon, I'm a little late to the game. But I found your video very useful. We used these in the school I went to. And I'm very proud to own one myself now. In general design and size, it looks close to the one you have. However, it didn't come with the hardware for fixing the wheel on the arbor (e-Bay purchase). I've heard those convex washers called flange wheels, or arbor spacers. I'm not quite sure where to look to find some for this grinder. Did you have to locate those for yours? Also, the arbor is 3/8 inch diameter, which is smaller than the smallest spacer Norton provides to fit their 3X stones on standard size bench grinders. Did you have to track down spare parts to get you grinder up and running?
Great video, thanks, surprised you would burn tool on a hand crank; 8000 grit on a chisel is extremely fine for a wood tool-swords and tactical knives are typical tools for such fine grit
Where did you find your replacement wheel, and do they carry anything larger ? I lucked into a treadle wheel but the stone is cracked almost completely through.. Great vids !! Thanks !
Hey ,,, I do appreciate you talent to do these TH-cam Videos and know that you do a lot of demonstrations at wood working shows ,,, I agree with a lot of your teaching ,,, YET ,,, i have to ask you why do you grind so fast that you get sparks,,, I have used a hand crank for years and rarely or ever get sparks ,,, maybe it is your wheel and speed or grade of steel ??? i don't know because I use a 90 grit CGW White ,,, The whole idea of a hand crank was for me to be able to avoid heating my tools so I don't grind at a speed that creates sparks ,,, no need to ,,, the wheel will grind without sparks,,, yes the tools will still get warm but I have never had a problem with getting the tool to hot,,, Warm is when you can place the tool on the back of you hand and it isn't uncomfortable,,, that being said ,,, if it is to uncomfortable on the back of your hand then you have over heated it,,, The back of your hand is very sensitive ,,, the point of the chisel is very thin and does not take a lot of heat to over heat that tip,,, The rest of your video is awesome,,, I totally agree with having a dedicated sharpening station to confine the mess of sharpening and make it convenient to get onto the business of sharpening,,, And as you pointed out this is just one woodworkers opinion,,, I hope you take this in the spirit it was intended not to disrespect you in any way,,, again I thank you for your dedication to this profession Cheers Howard
WoodRiver Diamond wheel dressing tools (sorry about the misprint in the previous comment) are available in 36 or 120 grit an are currently on sale at Woodcraft.
Hi Shannon How long would it take you to create a hollow grind on a 2" wide hock blade for example? Do you own any Japanese steel tools and grind using the wheel? If so how has the hard steel responded? I have a mix and hope to find a method to suit both but hollow grinding Japanese steel tools is apparently not a good idea.
Hi shannon and anyone else readig this, im looking into buying myself a hand cranked grinder for pretty much the same jobs you use yours for, is it essential to have a geared version? I have found a few non-geared grinders and although im happy enough to pay the extra if needed; in your opinion is it worth saving 8-10 pounds on the non-geared version or should i stop being a tightfisted yorkshireman? Lol Im open to anyone giving there thoughts on this, and thanks in advance to any that do. Rgds, Dan.
Yes I do. Basically all my bench tools are done this way. I only vary for my turning and carving tools with more complex edges and then I have a set up on my treadle lathe for those using Tormek jigs.
You could but you would find the process is slower and the stone will want to pull the chisel away from the rest and make it more difficult to get a consistent angle on the bevel. So possible, but not recommended.
mine has another hole in the crank arm I thought about running a rod from that to a board , you'd need some sort of swivel so the whole thing would move smoothly , i'm going to take the time and try to work it out I don't have electricity in my garden shed and it would make sharping tool's so much easier
Should be possible. Back in school I worked on a pedal-driven sewing machine. It's really comfortable to have both of your hands free for full control.
I love the return to hand tools and am of course a fan but this handcrank grinder really caught me off guard...if you want to temper a plane blade does one light the charcoal by rubbing two sticks together? Will flint and steel preserve craftsmanship? where does one obtain the whale oil for the quenching? im joking so please just have a laugh with me as i wonder where the borders between craftmanship and inconvenience lie!
Hi shannon and anyone else readig this, im looking into buying myself a hand cranked grinder for pretty much the same jobs you use yours for, is it essential to have a geared version? I have found a few non-geared grinders and although im happy enough to pay the extra if needed; in your opinion is it worth saving 8-10 pounds on the non-geared version or should i stop being a tightfisted yorkshireman? Lol Im open to anyone giving there thoughts on this, and thanks in advance to any that do. Rgds, Dan.
I don't think it is necessary. My only experience with direct drive grinders is using treadle powered versions and I didn't see any drop off in effectiveness. Less chance of going too fast and burning the steel certainly.
The clarity in the way you deliver information is a gift my man. You are a born teacher.
I just picked up one of these, made by General, w/a cast metal body in a great Art Deco style. This video is very helpful.
I’ve got two of these in my workshop 😮
Very good video top advise
Great for rotary mower blades😮😊
Just bought a hand grinder on ebay and looking forward to using it following your clear method. No more dull edges. Thank you.
Yes and that is exactly what I want. The hollow makes it much easier to reference on a flat stone for honing.
You're my hero. If I could have just a smidgen of u in my brain. Life wouldnt be so dam chaotic.
Thanks for the suggestion of a dedicated grinding and metal cutting bench.yes those rock particals get into my wooden work bench.and into my work.now I work the grinder in another area of the shop.
On my latest hand grinder the tool rest can be moved to the other side and the crank turned in the opposite direction. Check if yours can be moved. Many of these are made with symmetric mounting holes on the body of the grinder case...
As far as lefty cranking, just mount the grinder the other way with the crank to the left. I'm not sure about your grinder, but mine has identical mounts for the tool rest on both front and back.. probably specifically to allow it to be used lefty.
Really nice video. Good straightforward instruction without extraneous anecdote. Excellent lighting and photography.
Would there be any advantage to having a water trough for the wheel to sit in, or is that entirely unnecessary or even detrimental? Your mention of speed control to control heat seems to say that having a wet wheel is not necessary.
Would it help to rig a rod and pedal on the crank to use your foot to apply force to the crank on the downstroke, to run the wheel by foot pressure?
I can see the importance of a sturdy tool rest. I had considered buying a hand crank wheel without a tool rest, but I think I'll reconsider. Thanks.
Excellent instructional video - especially removing the curvature of the chisel. Thank you. FYI I have a Mole hand grinder which can be set up for a left hand on the crank, but I'm a leftie like you so this is not necessary! Please can you give me any advice on how to set the guides for the desired grinding angle?
the grinding wheel is convex but the resulting bevel is concave from heel to toe. Not sure where you are referring to but it is definitely possible that I misspoke, I was bleeding at the time after all.
You state that lefties should rejoice because you have yet to find a grinder with the crank on the left side so as to allow you to hold the tool with your right hand. FYI: your grinder allows for both a right and left hand operation. Look at the hole in the body of the grinder on the top left side of the crank where the rest is screwed onto. Do you notice another hole on the top right side of the crank? Most all grinders have both sets of holes. Take the rest off the left side and put it on this right hand hole and reposition the grinder on the left side of your table with the crank on your left side. Now you can crank with your left hand!
I love hand cranked tools and I'm lefthanded
I bought it at Tools for Working Wood online. Most places don't go above 8-12" in grinding wheels. If you want larger you probably need to seek out an industrial supplier.
You should build a stand to raise the water bucket much higher and underneath the grinding wheel (as close as possible) to catch all the abrasive and swarf. You can also use the same water to cool the tool in the event that it does get too warm. [As an aside], trying to find one of these hand grinders in good condition and with an arbor larger then 3/8th of an inch is like trying to find a piece of straw in a stack of needles. Great videos, keep up the good work.
you shouldn't let the arbor size hold you back. Most grinding wheels come with spacers to fit a variety of arbor sizes. But you can also easily make you own spacer on a lathe.
Yes, I knew about the spacer(s) included with new wheels but unfortunately they only reduce down to 1/2" (and of course most arbors are 3/8"). I have a grinder with the 3/8" that I had to make some spacers for but I'm still seeking that larger arbor unabused grinder - there's one out there somewhere searching for me, calling my name.
Subbed, simply to see more cool stuff like this! I must make one, perhaps with a few sized down pulleys and belts.
Hi Just purchased a pre-loved hand crank bench mounted grinder. The stone youre using seems to be far finer than the one I have on my grinder. You stated it was a Norton, which the make I have but what grade is it.
Really useful video thank you
I would have to go find another grinder to do that, but even then it wasn't that interesting. I cleaned off any rust then opened the gearbox and cleaned the gears, closed it up dropped in some oil and replaced the stone. Maybe 20 min of work. The key is finding a grinder that isn't too far gone.
I bought one of those in a flea market. haven't used it yet. thanks for the tips.
I think only about 4 or 5 drops. Mine does not have a reservoir, but rather more of a chute to funnel oil directly into the gears.
Thinking about making one out of a pole lathe
Great video. Exactly what I was looking for
Interesting use of your tools. I generally sharpen with an electric bench grinder but I do like hand crank grinders just because of the shear gizmosity of the rub your head and pat your stomach effort involve in grinding.
I have written several more things on this subject. I can't include links here but look in the video description for a link to an audio convo I had on what to look for when buying one.
Just as a thought, I just bought a couple of these for sharpening various blades and I loaded them with grease, why use oil when grease would have so much more staying power. It would lube the ball bearings for longer and make sure that it won't run dry. Is there a down side to grease that you can see?
Thanks... How much oil did you need for the gears? Is it like a reservoir inside so that the gears are always lubed ?? I was able to find one similar to what you have this past weekend... Just needs cleaned up, degreased, and a new stone..
How big a stone can I put on my grinder? Also, it seems like a worthy project to transform my grinder into a foot-powered tool!
the size of the stone really depends on the grinder itself and the clearance the "frame" offers you.
Hi Shannon,
I'm a little late to the game. But I found your video very useful. We used these in the school I went to. And I'm very proud to own one myself now. In general design and size, it looks close to the one you have. However, it didn't come with the hardware for fixing the wheel on the arbor (e-Bay purchase). I've heard those convex washers called flange wheels, or arbor spacers. I'm not quite sure where to look to find some for this grinder. Did you have to locate those for yours? Also, the arbor is 3/8 inch diameter, which is smaller than the smallest spacer Norton provides to fit their 3X stones on standard size bench grinders. Did you have to track down spare parts to get you grinder up and running?
Great video, thanks, surprised you would burn tool on a hand crank; 8000 grit on a chisel is extremely fine for a wood tool-swords and tactical knives are typical tools for such fine grit
Where did you find your replacement wheel, and do they carry anything larger ? I lucked into a treadle wheel but the stone is cracked almost completely through.. Great vids !! Thanks !
Any Tips for wheel change ? Mine is stock in place.
Hey ,,, I do appreciate you talent to do these TH-cam Videos and know that you do a lot of demonstrations at wood working shows ,,, I agree with a lot of your teaching ,,, YET ,,, i have to ask you why do you grind so fast that you get sparks,,, I have used a hand crank for years and rarely or ever get sparks ,,, maybe it is your wheel and speed or grade of steel ??? i don't know because I use a 90 grit CGW White ,,, The whole idea of a hand crank was for me to be able to avoid heating my tools so I don't grind at a speed that creates sparks ,,, no need to ,,, the wheel will grind without sparks,,, yes the tools will still get warm but I have never had a problem with getting the tool to hot,,, Warm is when you can place the tool on the back of you hand and it isn't uncomfortable,,, that being said ,,, if it is to uncomfortable on the back of your hand then you have over heated it,,, The back of your hand is very sensitive ,,, the point of the chisel is very thin and does not take a lot of heat to over heat that tip,,, The rest of your video is awesome,,, I totally agree with having a dedicated sharpening station to confine the mess of sharpening and make it convenient to get onto the business of sharpening,,, And as you pointed out this is just one woodworkers opinion,,, I hope you take this in the spirit it was intended not to disrespect you in any way,,, again I thank you for your dedication to this profession Cheers Howard
Oh yes, what grit is your diamond dressing wheel? [They're on sale this month]
grit? wheel? You mean the dressing tool? I didn't know it came in different grits.
WoodRiver Diamond wheel dressing tools (sorry about the misprint in the previous comment) are available in 36 or 120 grit an are currently on sale at Woodcraft.
What grit Norton 3X would you recommend?
+Brian Dormer I'm using a 60 grit wheel
Hi Shannon
How long would it take you to create a hollow grind on a 2" wide hock blade for example? Do you own any Japanese steel tools and grind using the wheel? If so how has the hard steel responded? I have a mix and hope to find a method to suit both but hollow grinding Japanese steel tools is apparently not a good idea.
maybe a minute, I haven't really timed it. I don't have any Japanese steel.
ace thanks for the response
Thanks for sharing. What is the Hand Crank Grinder brand name?
Dan Tabakman no idea. It has no markings
Hi shannon and anyone else readig this, im looking into buying myself a hand cranked grinder for pretty much the same jobs you use yours for, is it essential to have a geared version?
I have found a few non-geared grinders and although im happy enough to pay the extra if needed; in your opinion is it worth saving 8-10 pounds on the non-geared version or should i stop being a tightfisted yorkshireman? Lol
Im open to anyone giving there thoughts on this, and thanks in advance to any that do.
Rgds, Dan.
Do you use this same method for plane irons or do you do those differently?
Yes I do. Basically all my bench tools are done this way. I only vary for my turning and carving tools with more complex edges and then I have a set up on my treadle lathe for those using Tormek jigs.
Is it ok to spin the wheel so that the sparks are going away from you or does it have to spin towards you?
You could but you would find the process is slower and the stone will want to pull the chisel away from the rest and make it more difficult to get a consistent angle on the bevel. So possible, but not recommended.
could you rig a foot treadel to that so both hands would be free
I am trying to do just that on mine, never made one before so would love some thoughts.
mine has another hole in the crank arm I thought about running a rod from that to a board , you'd need some sort of swivel so the whole thing would move smoothly , i'm going to take the time and try to work it out I don't have electricity in my garden shed and it would make sharping tool's so much easier
Should be possible. Back in school I worked on a pedal-driven sewing machine. It's really comfortable to have both of your hands free for full control.
You'd need a decent flywheel, perhaps rig it up to a sewing machine treadle, like those manufactured by Singer in the 1920's.
would you pls help me to buy one?
I am seeking to buy a new Hand crack grinder, Does anyone manufacture this? so far Ive only found a very small one.
concave? you mean convex, right?
I love the return to hand tools and am of course a fan but this handcrank grinder really caught me off guard...if you want to temper a plane blade does one light the charcoal by rubbing two sticks together? Will flint and steel preserve craftsmanship? where does one obtain the whale oil for the quenching? im joking so please just have a laugh with me as i wonder where the borders between craftmanship and inconvenience lie!
Hi shannon and anyone else readig this, im looking into buying myself a hand cranked grinder for pretty much the same jobs you use yours for, is it essential to have a geared version?
I have found a few non-geared grinders and although im happy enough to pay the extra if needed; in your opinion is it worth saving 8-10 pounds on the non-geared version or should i stop being a tightfisted yorkshireman? Lol
Im open to anyone giving there thoughts on this, and thanks in advance to any that do.
Rgds, Dan.
I don't think it is necessary. My only experience with direct drive grinders is using treadle powered versions and I didn't see any drop off in effectiveness. Less chance of going too fast and burning the steel certainly.