You have a floor jack and you have jack stands. If you look under the middle of the front end about 2 feet back there’s a jack point ( feel it with your hand, it’s steel not part of the plastic engine shield. Put a block of wood behind the rear tires. Jack up the front end until BOTH front wheels at the same time after loosening the lug nuts like you showed. Use your jack stands on both sides at the pinch weld point where the vehicle’s scissor jack would go. I use a hockey puck with a 1/4 inch slot cut in top about 1/2 inch deep on top of the jack stands. If you’re changing out the OEM brake pads the clips are reusable in a pinch as there are “ sturdier “ than aftermarket parts. I notice you didn’t put the shims on the back of the new pads ( u can use the old ones once again way sturdier than aftermarket ) put a light smear of that grease on the back of the pad and as you did, on the contact points. I always clean up the slots where the tabs on the pads slide into and put a very very small amount of grease on them. Whenever you change out the brakes and once or twice a year, inspect. The calliper slide pins to make sure they move in and out easily. Seizes slide pins leads to the pads wearing down prematurely. Pull the pin out carefully to not damage the rubber boot. Clean the old grease off the pin and the boot, put a very light coat of SILICON brake grease on the pin but not on the tip. Put the pin back into the hole twisting the pin to distribute some grease inside. Pull the pin out, slide it back in with the rubber boot back on and seated in the groove inside the hole. Check that it moves in and out easily. 25 lb ft is okay y 2017 says 26 and I put a little medium strength thread locker on them. It’s overkill but I don’t want those vibrating loose. The Caliper bracket bolts are torqued to 77 lb ft as are the lug nuts on the wheels no thread locker needed. I know all this turns your 15 minute per wheel into a 45 minute per wheel job but the grease on the back of the pads helps prevent “ rattling noises “ from the pads and caliper, and the slide pin check means the other bolt has to come out as well so I do it like you, then put the bottom pin back in and pull the top pin. I’ve had the brake new pads wear out after just over 28,000 miles before because those pins seized over the winter.
@@TheJeepxj17 sorry, I was talking pad pins and not caliper pins…there are slide pins with a rubber boot that must be lubed otherwise calipers can seize especially with the Midwest road treatments. Other brake systems have pins that run through the pad specifically.
@@rudysmachado5747 the caliper itself has large pins (bolts) that must be lubed. You’ll see the rubber boot protecting them. Best to slop grease inside the little rubber boot as well as on the pin…the less moisture to enter, the better. And, best to do that annually if possible.
Nice job. Might want to rethink that jack method. The pinch weld is not made to be jacked with a piece of wood. Not even sure how yours jacked without sliding off. There are two notches where you are suppose to connect at. Buy yourself a couple of those hockey pucks with slots in them (pinch weld goes in the slot) so the fit on that jack you are using. Better yet cut a groove on a smaller piece of wood that straddles the pinch weld. Much more stable than having a piece of wood riding on the weld or immediately next to the weld. Just a suggestion... BTW how many miles did you have on yours before you replaced the pads? Thanks for posting!
While it is true you do not need to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap when compressing the pistons, it is good practice to compress both pistons at the same time. It is better to put the old pad across both pistons and compress that way. Also, it is a better idea to apply the grease to the OUTSIDE/ NON-PAD/ OUTWARD FACING surface of the pads themselves. DO NOT APPLY GREASE TO THE FACE OF THE PAD THAT MAKES CONTACT WITH THE ROTOR! Hopefully, if you are mechanically inclined enough to be changing your own brake pads this is a no brainer but I'm am certain people have done that in the past.
It's also better to break the bleeder screw and push the fluid sediment that has accumulated down by the Pistons out that just top off the master cylinder you don't want to push that chunk back up inside you want to get it out do it right
First of all, Thank you for your time taken in making this video. Very good information, shot cleanly and with excellent lighting and camera angles. I just have a couple of questions . 1: Did your new wearever Pads come with shims already on them? If no shims provided do we re-use the OE silver shims from old brakes and put them on the new pads? There is even little knobs / pins on the new pads that hold that shim in place? 2: What about the caliper pins, aren't those supposed to be checked and cleaned/ re-greased? Genuine Toyota Brake Pad Installation Best Practices video on YT would be a great follow up to your nicely done video
Yes to both questions the OE shims can be cleaned up and reused if they aren’t damaged. Also those clips that keep the pads apart would work better than aftermarket new clips because they are way stronger ( try them out compared to the aftermarket ones even the pad clips are sturdier than aftermarket.
Even as a novice, I've noticed a few things wrong: * Should have at least checked the condition of rotors and thickness * Did not clean and lube caliper pins * Did not put grease on the shims * Should have removed the caliper bracket and given it a good scrub where shims inserted * Grease on outer facing area of the pads still preferred * For safety use jack stands as the primary support, not other way around I would also have pressure cleaned the wheels prior if you're worried about brake dust.
Is it necessary to replace those metal clip pieces both from the break caliber and break pads? Ive been reusing them on other break pads replacement project.
Most likely, the same or very similar procedure will work on your 2017 model. However, there is usually a bit of a difference in the brake pad material from the front brakes to the back (the front tend to be larger pads). It should be a similar procedure for front and back brakes though.
On my 2017 anyways the rear brake rotors are different because the parking brake uses shoes like the old style rear brakes so there’s a “ hub” for them as well as a disc for the rear brakes. The parking brake shoes shouldn’t need to be changed for year and years.
I suggest watching another vid. He skips lubing the ears on the pads, using the wrong wrench, pushes in the pistons one at a time. Not a good video, move on.
No you don't. Unless they're warped or glazed...there's ZERO need. A flat rotor is a flat rotor. If they're gouged then replace them. I've turned a few thousand rotors/drums and now days...they're so cheap that I rarely do them any longer as well. They DO make great boat anchors!
Here is where you can get OEM brake parts without going to the dealership: amzn.to/2VlHnZt
You have a floor jack and you have jack stands. If you look under the middle of the front end about 2 feet back there’s a jack point ( feel it with your hand, it’s steel not part of the plastic engine shield. Put a block of wood behind the rear tires. Jack up the front end until BOTH front wheels at the same time after loosening the lug nuts like you showed. Use your jack stands on both sides at the pinch weld point where the vehicle’s scissor jack would go. I use a hockey puck with a 1/4 inch slot cut in top about 1/2 inch deep on top of the jack stands. If you’re changing out the OEM brake pads the clips are reusable in a pinch as there are “ sturdier “ than aftermarket parts. I notice you didn’t put the shims on the back of the new pads ( u can use the old ones once again way sturdier than aftermarket ) put a light smear of that grease on the back of the pad and as you did, on the contact points. I always clean up the slots where the tabs on the pads slide into and put a very very small amount of grease on them. Whenever you change out the brakes and once or twice a year, inspect. The calliper slide pins to make sure they move in and out easily. Seizes slide pins leads to the pads wearing down prematurely. Pull the pin out carefully to not damage the rubber boot. Clean the old grease off the pin and the boot, put a very light coat of SILICON brake grease on the pin but not on the tip. Put the pin back into the hole twisting the pin to distribute some grease inside. Pull the pin out, slide it back in with the rubber boot back on and seated in the groove inside the hole. Check that it moves in and out easily. 25 lb ft is okay y 2017 says 26 and I put a little medium strength thread locker on them. It’s overkill but I don’t want those vibrating loose. The Caliper bracket bolts are torqued to 77 lb ft as are the lug nuts on the wheels no thread locker needed. I know all this turns your 15 minute per wheel into a 45 minute per wheel job but the grease on the back of the pads helps prevent “ rattling noises “ from the pads and caliper, and the slide pin check means the other bolt has to come out as well so I do it like you, then put the bottom pin back in and pull the top pin. I’ve had the brake new pads wear out after just over 28,000 miles before because those pins seized over the winter.
Finally. I’ve watched EVERY video!!! Yours worked!
It's also a good idea to clean and regrease the slide pins.
The Highlander pads don't run on slide pins. Tundra does.
So, no pins, do those springs take their place?
what? lol
@@WunKoolKat
@@TheJeepxj17 sorry, I was talking pad pins and not caliper pins…there are slide pins with a rubber boot that must be lubed otherwise calipers can seize especially with the Midwest road treatments. Other brake systems have pins that run through the pad specifically.
@@rudysmachado5747 the caliper itself has large pins (bolts) that must be lubed. You’ll see the rubber boot protecting them. Best to slop grease inside the little rubber boot as well as on the pin…the less moisture to enter, the better. And, best to do that annually if possible.
Thanks for the detailed concise video. Good angles, edits, and lighting.
Nice job. Might want to rethink that jack method. The pinch weld is not made to be jacked with a piece of wood. Not even sure how yours jacked without sliding off. There are two notches where you are suppose to connect at. Buy yourself a couple of those hockey pucks with slots in them (pinch weld goes in the slot) so the fit on that jack you are using. Better yet cut a groove on a smaller piece of wood that straddles the pinch weld. Much more stable than having a piece of wood riding on the weld or immediately next to the weld. Just a suggestion... BTW how many miles did you have on yours before you replaced the pads? Thanks for posting!
Excellent instructional video. My only complaint is the lack of good lighting! We need to see what you are pointing at and talking about!
While it is true you do not need to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap when compressing the pistons, it is good practice to compress both pistons at the same time. It is better to put the old pad across both pistons and compress that way. Also, it is a better idea to apply the grease to the OUTSIDE/ NON-PAD/ OUTWARD FACING surface of the pads themselves. DO NOT APPLY GREASE TO THE FACE OF THE PAD THAT MAKES CONTACT WITH THE ROTOR! Hopefully, if you are mechanically inclined enough to be changing your own brake pads this is a no brainer but I'm am certain people have done that in the past.
I see a lot of these videos where they don't check / grease the caliper pins
Did you get an ice-cream? I heard the ice-cream truck sound 😎Nice video!
It's also better to break the bleeder screw and push the fluid sediment that has accumulated down by the Pistons out that just top off the master cylinder you don't want to push that chunk back up inside you want to get it out do it right
Takes me 20 minutes jack up the car and secure with jack stand and tire blocks.
Thanks for the detailed video.
This is a great video very 🚘 thorough straight to the point 👍🏽Thank you !
Avoid spraying brake cleaner on the rubber components, because it breaks down the rubber over time causing long-term damage.
Excellent video. I am changing them sometime next week when Amazon get the parts delivered
Awesome, good luck on your repair!
Great video brother 👍
First of all, Thank you for your time taken in making this video. Very good information, shot cleanly and with excellent lighting and camera angles.
I just have a couple of questions .
1: Did your new wearever Pads come with shims already on them? If no shims provided do we re-use the OE silver shims from old brakes and put them on the new pads? There is even little knobs / pins on the new pads that hold that shim in place?
2: What about the caliper pins, aren't those supposed to be checked and cleaned/ re-greased?
Genuine Toyota Brake Pad Installation Best Practices video on YT would be a great follow up to your nicely done video
Yes to both questions the OE shims can be cleaned up and reused if they aren’t damaged. Also those clips that keep the pads apart would work better than aftermarket new clips because they are way stronger ( try them out compared to the aftermarket ones even the pad clips are sturdier than aftermarket.
Is there a reason you didn't use the shims that were on the side of your old pads? Thanks
Great video! Thanks, I’m changing them tomorrow Sunday.
Does the sensor goes at the bottom of the brake pads for left and right brakes?
Jake. What size C Clamp did you use?
My experience on Mazda and bmw... I have had fluid push out of the brake fluid reservoir. YMMV
Even as a novice, I've noticed a few things wrong:
* Should have at least checked the condition of rotors and thickness
* Did not clean and lube caliper pins
* Did not put grease on the shims
* Should have removed the caliper bracket and given it a good scrub where shims inserted
* Grease on outer facing area of the pads still preferred
* For safety use jack stands as the primary support, not other way around
I would also have pressure cleaned the wheels prior if you're worried about brake dust.
Ok is it just me or am i not seeing how much psi to torque everything.. only cause you mentioned it would be in the description..
I was going to have the rotors turned but may not even bother.
What about the rotors that toyota is gonna vibrate every time he steps on the brakes
Need to resurface rotors or replace them, that will fix the problem.
You are the man!!!!! Thank you Sir!!!!
Is it necessary to replace those metal clip pieces both from the break caliber and break pads? Ive been reusing them on other break pads replacement project.
They can easily get rusty hence the replacement
You should have cleaned and are lubricated the calipers slide pins, top and bottom.
Does also work same with 2017 mdoel? And the brake pads will also work same the front and rear cos i have to change mine booth front and rear
Most likely, the same or very similar procedure will work on your 2017 model. However, there is usually a bit of a difference in the brake pad material from the front brakes to the back (the front tend to be larger pads). It should be a similar procedure for front and back brakes though.
next time don't forget to lube the caliper pins and to resurface the rotors !
How hard or how different is doing the back brakes?
On my 2017 anyways the rear brake rotors are different because the parking brake uses shoes like the old style rear brakes so there’s a “ hub” for them as well as a disc for the rear brakes. The parking brake shoes shouldn’t need to be changed for year and years.
How many milles or km before you need to replace your brake pads people.
Me 52 000 km
What size of a c clamp you use?
the big one
I don't know....He's wearing a Guns & Roses tshirt....Can we trust this guy?
Thats the reason why I believe in this guy 100% :)
Next time, I'll wear my Foo Fighters shirt.
@@jakeguitar01 LOL...
@@jakeguitar01 Wear your Pantera dude lolol
nice, but many missing hints …
Also, a lotta rags and TWO cans of brake cleaner 😉
T'as oublié d'enlever bouchon au maître cylindre
Isn't amazing how car dealers will charge over $200 for this job
He's spraying brake cleaner everywhere.. lol. You forgot brakepad special grease on the back of the brakepad.
Took me 1/2 hour to take it off.
Goddam, you really need to waste our time showing how to remove lug nuts?
I suggest watching another vid. He skips lubing the ears on the pads, using the wrong wrench, pushes in the pistons one at a time. Not a good video, move on.
hack job
You forgot to do the rotors not good you always have to do the rotors
No you don't. Unless they're warped or glazed...there's ZERO need. A flat rotor is a flat rotor. If they're gouged then replace them. I've turned a few thousand rotors/drums and now days...they're so cheap that I rarely do them any longer as well. They DO make great boat anchors!
Rotors do not need to be changed every time. Unless you’re rich, lol.