I Failed & Lost Money On This Job
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2024
- ⚡️ARC ONE WELDING LTD ⚡️
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You haven't failed mate , its the only way we learn by having a go , great video 👍😉
Every day is a school day - live n learn - At least you didn't lose any money which is harder to swallow than just about breaking even. Thanks for sharing the real life ups and downs of a jobbing welder. Keepin' it real!
Big chance it was the WD40 at the start mate. Putting it deep into the material. Done 10+ years with Ali myself it can be a nightmare for passing testing . Massive fan of the channel though brother. Cracking content all the time 👏🏼🫡
Thanks for that mate and the wd40 didn't help at all for the welding but the bit was binding up so fast without it. I appreciate it though
@@ARCONEWELDING I personally use a coarser bit for the die grinding when doing aluminium. It cuts faster and doesnt clog up when not using coolant. You can also get carbide tipped saw blades for you angle grinder, I use them for straight bevels like that and they are crazy fast. Just watch your fingers.
Hope to see more aluminium content from you, my guy.
Glad you got it sorted in the end 👍👍
When welding aluminum, lesson no.1: Clean it. Lesson no. 2: Clean it. Lesson no.3: Repeat no. 1 and 2....
Cleanliness is the key to aluminium welding. After die beveling brush the weld prep in one direction only, after that use acetone and paper towel to remove the rest dirt from weld prep and your tig rods. Then weld. Perhaps you could increase the balance to get more cleaning when amplitude is in dc+ period. Aluminium is the bastard.
IF you find yourself limited for Amps on your AC Tig.
Try running a mix of Helium with your Argon.
It will help your arc to run a little hotter, and some Pre- Heat from something like an LPG bottle will definitely help to take the chill out of the Aluminium before you start Welding 👍
Wd40 and carbide grinder that is made for steel with small teeth gave you problems.
You could run mig and put material fast then just melt it with tig and get rid of pin holes, I know this was hell
I think I would have pulled the sheets up.
Use the map gas heat to break the epoxy flip the sheets clean all the sealant / epoxy from around the joint, using acetone or maybe one of those stripping discs then acetone.
make sure they're basically loose off the frame underneath.
After all that then weld them.
To help with heat you use helium this will really help with heat.
There are some 230v AC welders with a function called mixed Tig it has different names on different brands but essentially it pulses in some pure DC negative into the wave form.
This really helps with heat & penetration.
I use a 220 amp WECO 221 Discovery ACDC it has this feature and it really helps on thicker material.
The problem with a 3 phase welder for mobile work is unless you bring a generator you won't always have access to 3 phase plus there heavier.
I have 13kw generator with both single & 3 phase mounted in the side of the Van but I try not to use 3 phase for mobile work unless I have no other options.
Make sure your single phase welders have power factor correction this will give you more head room before you trip a breaker if your using power at the location.
I sucks though, it does happens to everyone when you have a job that ends up costing a lot more than you budgeted for.
Good luck
The best thing I ever did with Ali was run a pulse machine! Weldmax 355i to be exact. Makes welding Ali so dam easy! I don't think that WD-40 would have helped unless you got rid of all of it. As you said their was resin and everything underneath so if all that shit was coming up through the gap then you still did a great job considering. While watching the video I was thinking why dont they just sheet the table with plastic. Then you said they taped the joins so that works too! Awesome work none the less! Love your video's bro. Been watching a lot of your piping stuff because I just won my first piping job and I've never done it before 😂 only a 24k job so hopefully I don't do my ass on it! Haha
I have welded aluminium with Mig, no great success unfortunately and the same with tig. Clean with acetone, preheat and all that and I still wasn't happy. I also have a Thermal Arc 202 AC/DC Tig/MMA welder and you are right, the duty cycle is very poor indeed. I had to go and check when you said "100% @ 90amps". It is true and at the rated 200amps on Tig it is only 20%!
However, I mainly use mine for stick welding plant machinery off a genny, and too my surprise, 15% duty cycle at the max stick output of 170Amps and only 80Amps @ 100%. Well, I have to confess that I have broken the rules on that. I put a new bottom in a digger bucket recently with near wear strips and such like and was welding for a solid 2hours at a time, 4mm stick after 4mm stick at 162Amps. The genny had to be rested every 2hrs because it kept thermal tripping out. I did keep an eye on the temperature of the welder, and as you know they are very noisey as the cooling fan blasts air into the machine. It never even got warm. And that is why I didn't rest it between rods.
Aluminium rule number 1 : you need 50 Amps for each mm of material thickness… and consider all the major factors like: the filler metal might not be the best or compatible with the base metal?!
Nice insightful video, pal. I've taken some hits like this over the years, never Migged Ali though, I would have bottled it.😅
Parweld XTT353P-P1 AC/DC is a cheaper AC/DC machine has the option for water cooling as well.
Troublesome jobs like that one often pay back later because customers who see you goi through absolute drama to get the job done tend to call you back for other work because you have a good work ethic.. Next time things will be better (you might want to invest in a generator for a 3 phase machine too), that would allow you to work on site as well as in doors
thanks for sharing
Yeah mate it's true, that's my second job with them
@@ARCONEWELDING ah excellent
My golden rule with Aluminium is - I do not touch Aluminium (Aloooominum lol)
I ALWAYS ESTIMATE THREE TIMES MORE LABOR WHEN DOING ALUMINUM.. ITS A PAIN, AND THERE IS SO MUCH PREP.. IF THE CUSTOMER COMPLAINS, ALL I CAN TELL THEM IS "SHOULDNT HAVE CHOSE ALUMINUM!".. LOL!
My point of view on ally, is that i avoid it at all costs 😄
If it really must be done, then i do not and will not go anywhere near it with a mig welder.
I learnt that lesson the hard way!
Привет из Таджикистана
Bonjour de France 🇨🇵🤗🧑🏭
@@sucre9995 я тож Сварщик 3 разряда
How did you fail? It looks and sounds like by them gluing it all together they unknowingly sabotaged the Job. They should have dismantled the table and cleaned the epoxy and glue before you even got there. Obviously along with all of the other things you have learned and mistakes made from lack of preparation on your part too. It seems like a job that was never ever going to work without all of the changes.
Try a helium argon mix gas first before buying a new machine if your running pure argon . The helium will boost your welders output amp wise by roughly 35% whilst still running on the same amperage.
Use wax with your dye grinder WD-40 contaminates aluminum I am speaking from experience use it all you want on Steel you'll burn it out of the joint not the case with aluminum I would like to suggest since everything is 240 volts over there looking at a HTP America Pro pulse 300 it has single pulse and double pulse and you can use a 35-foot push pull gun with it it doesn't have a dating on its duty cycle between single phase and three phase in US Dollars it's $4,999 for just the steel package it's just a little bit over $5,000 us for the aluminum package I think it would fit your operation well but in the end that's for you to decide just figured I would make you aware of that machine because it's single phase and three phase with no duty cycle darating
WD 40 and Welding....not good friend no?
Yeah I agree with that. It's ok if you clean it off the surfaces, but if you're grinding it into the joint, you're gonna have a bad time
If it was stainless it would of buckled too much, headache on its own.
With aluminium, everything needs to be 100% lesson lernt.
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you cant just write off the costs of the tools on one job , it does not work that way , you no own the tool and they will do another day , also you didnt actually do what you were meant to do , so the fact you got paid at all is a bonus. Long story short , dont quote jobs you cant do , either because you dont have the equipment or the experience , worst job no , it was a good job as you got out of it with wages and new tools , now if the customer hadnt paid you as you didnt do the job , and you were still out the tools and the time , it would still be lucky ,,, if the customer didnt pay you and charged you for messing their tables up , then your having a bad day , but its still your fault.
I donno if you price up jobs but you can certainly put the price of tools on the customer, you can price it how ever you want, in many cases a full pack of welding consumables and gass are put ontop of a jobs price its normal, that was just my way of understanding how much money I made from the job, one table was fine and the other table was flat but didn't hold a vacuum but was easily fixed and they are happy with the tables, personally I can't control the contamination of the tables that's what caused it to fail.
@@ARCONEWELDING I price a lot of jobs , I own a lot of tools , but to count the tool purchase price into the job is not fair to the customer , unless you give them the tool at the end of the job , after all they paid for it.