What a awesome video,Thanks for sharing this information much appreciated. I used a Summit Racing GM HEI style on my 89 W 250 360 LA worked great,however I had clearance issues with the Distributor cap being much wider. The distributor body interfered with my firewall in wich I clearanced with a Hammer 🔨..lol. I like your idea much better 😉👍👌.
First of all, thank you for watching. I really appreciate it. And I also was thinking about doing the GM HEI style distributor on my small block Mopar's but like you said in the trucks, the firewall is a real problem. So I will probably be doing this kind of setup. But that HEI distributor is great because it has that big massive cap that gets you plenty of clearance from one spark plug. Contact to the other and doesn't allow as much spark scatter
Thank you very much for watching the video. Really appreciate it and thank you for the comments. As for the ignition swap to a GM HEI module, I like them really well. If the current crop of Mopar ignition components wasn't garbage, I would be all on board for those. But unfortunately lots and lots of electronics are coming out of China and which means quality just isn't there. It's non-existent so you may want to think about doing that. And I like the idea of your swap of a 360 into a coronet
Sorry for not responding sooner. I've had a lot on my plate. I've been dealing with a lot of very very bad weather here at my home but I want to say thank you so much for watching the videos and your comments. Very nice of you. As far as like getting the HEI system to work with the Mopar distributor go to a website called Allpar they have a wiring diagram that is very good. It shows the distributor, the ignition module, even the ground wire or the ground for the ignition module. Also they show the power wire coming to and supply and power to the module and also to the coil. It's really really good. Basically, if you cannot get the system to work, you may have one or more wires in the wrong place again, my apologies were not responding sooner Make sure you're eliminating the ballast resistor in the system. It the GM module works with a straight 12 volts to it. Okay so you don't have to worry about the ballast resistor it's not necessary just bypass it
Hey coyote, check out my latest video. I made it specifically to address the issues I have with the current video that talks about the HEI ignition module being used with the Mopar distributor situation there and get your setup to working like it should. Oh one other little thing to keep in mind. Make sure to at least use dielectric grease on the back of the ignition module when you mount it to a heat sink at least dielectric grease. Use that. There is a heat paste type grease material. It is white in color. Probably would be able to get it from Amazon or eBay. If I can come up with a part number or a supplier? I will let you know
Great job on the example of a working system which is a super vid for beginners to see how the ign systems works and it's always nice to get that score from the boneyard - I enjoy that too. Question for you, Why go for the GM module instead of the factory Mopar? The theory is it gives more spark, but has this been proven? And is it more reliable? I must say I never had much trouble with mine. Thanks for the video.
First of all, thank you for watching. I really appreciate it. As far as I know, anybody like proving that the GM HEI ignition module provides more spark. I don't know of anybody actually doing this. It would be a good video, though I'd say probably somebody probably might be able to do this in a garage, but it may be kind of difficult. However, at a racetrack or on a dyno this might be easier to prove out but the reasons for getting rid of the Mopar ignition box or brain box. Whatever you like to call it. The reasons for getting rid of that is because it has to run at less than 12 volts, which means you have to use the ballast resistor in order to make it work and still live. You can temporarily run it at straight 12 volts, but it won't live for very long like that. Furthermore, the the supply of today's ignition brain boxes and the baluster resistors is nothing great. Thank you, China so that's the reason why I'm trying this system out and seeing if it's going to work out really well it's like I said in the video it will be going on the $50 318 and I'll be using it on that and then I may also use it on the ramcharger or my 5th Avenue and in the GM HEI module takes a straight 12 volts and eliminates the baluster resistor all together which I've had a lot of trouble with over the years. Honestly when I go into junkyard or salvage yard and if there's any older Mopar's there that has the brain boxes I pick them up by snag them although the supply of today's ignition brain boxes and ballast resistors are absolutely garbage so thank you again and if there's any other questions I can answer for you I'll do my best. Thank you!
@@slantfish65sd Thanks for the reply. In fairness, I've been out of the game for a while but always interested. Unfortunately sold my 68 Dart - you know, family, house with acreage, etc., at time thinking I could get back in the game in the future as they were plentiful back then in the 90s. Boy was I wrong, albeit some 30yrs later. To be honest I wanted in sooner than this but other priorities come over it. Unfortunately I could see the $ skyrocketing for these old Mopars over the years even for rust heaps. I did pick up a 72 Duster a couple of yrs ago but haven't had the $ or time to do much to it yet. Body is 99% rust free except the typical under the tail lights area, but does have dings and dents. It is complete body, with 8-3/4, 4.30 gears (too high for my liking) fresh brakes. Motor is mostly there but partially disassembled. For now I am thinking of pulling the known low mileage excellent condition 318 out of my 1981 Cordoba that is in the back 40 and throwing that in with the lockup transmission. It has been sitting for 20 yrs so I am going to pull the heads off, make sure everything is free and clean before installing in the Duster. One of the missing pieces from the Duster (there are a few) is the Distributor. I am debating whether to install an original points style (I don't have one) or go with the electronic (I do have one and a box) that I kept for yrs but I am missing the factory connector for the Mopar distributor (I know I could connect without but that would be kind of hokey). The Cordoba 318 had the lean burn so that dist. is useless. Where I am going is that I have seen some other vids in the past where they installed the GM unit and pondered doing what your are doing here. Just need to decide which way to go. I do know the Mopar electronic is better than points but points don't leave you on the side of the road too often and if they do it is an easy fix. So you give me more food for thought. I suppose the bottom line is if I did go this route I would make sure I have another bone yard or Chinesium spare of the electronic unit. In any event sorry for the long winded reply and keep up the good work.
@@chumleye1112 I encourage you strongly do it. Get that duster running. Love to see it. As far as ignition system, you might want to think about using a points distributor which can be used to trigger an MSD box or a GM HEI module. Just something to think about, although I like where you're going with the entire project, you may want to also think about maybe picking up an inexpensive Magnum motor out of like 92 and later Dodge pickup. That would work really well in that duster
Good video! Ignition systems (although simple) are not really my strong point. 🙄 I get the basics with both the the primary and secondary wiring. But when it comes down to the specifics, IE. Does the coil need to have built in resistance, and if so how much. I know the starting voltage needs 12v ( battery voltage) but the run voltage should drop to around 8v. I have no idea how to do this, either on a run stand, or after installing in my truck. 1992, that I am trying to eliminate and bypass the old computer. Any thoughts on this?
Hey, thank you sidewinder for your continued support. The older Mopar electronic ignition system which used a brain box and a balancer resistor the voltage in that system starts out with 12 volts and gets cut down to about 8 volts. Like you said that is so that the computer the brain box ignition computer can live a long time. If it runs with straight 12 volts the Mopar ignition brain box. It won't last as long. That's why they employ the ballast resistor furthermore, the GM HEI ignition module takes straight 12 volts. So the idea is that it would have more voltage going to the plugs. Don't know if anybody's tested this or not. Maybe I'll be able to test that in the future video. Don't know for sure as far as you bypassing the computer and getting rid of it in your truck. There's basically two ways to make this happen that I can think of right off the bat. The first is to go with an older wiring harness from let's say of 1986 or earlier Dodge truck that will allow you to have the to get rid of the computer all together. The best way to do this is to of course obtain the harness from an 86 or earlier Dodge truck. Lay it out on the ground and then lay out the harness from your 92 Dodge truck now. You'll probably also have to have wiring diagrams of both vehicles. Figure out what you need to do as far as modifications to that 86 harness to make it work in your 92 and also feed information to gauges. Now this may not be that easy, nor it may also not be very straightforward. You can also the other way is to leave the computer in place feeding information to the gauges and also working with the starting system in the truck the ignition switch and so forth it also will be controlling the alternator voltage regulator. You can leave it the factory computer in place. And do an ignition system independent of the computer. You can do something like this GM ATI module or a Mopar ignition system that uses the brain box in the ballast resistor or you could use some aftermarket system. MSD comes to mind and then the computer in that case would just be controlling the voltage regulator for the alternator and then feeding information to the gauges. It wouldn't be controlling the ignition system or the fuel system. I hope this helps. If you have any further questions let me know. Oh one more thing. If you need wiring diagrams let me know. I have books, manuals and I can at least send you pictures of the wiring diagrams
@@slantfish65sd Thank you for replying. The engine I will be putting in the truck is carburated, and I figure I'll go ahead and put an external voltage regulator on it as well, I'm trying very much to eliminate this computer. It is the 3rd one this truck has had in it and quality ones are getting expensive and hard to find. I may hit you up for some of those wiring diagrams in the future. Thank you so much! 👍
Yes, very easily. However, you do need to be aware of where the exhaust manifold outlet is in relation to whatever chassis you're putting that engine and exhaust manifold in. But yes the magnum manifolds easily bolt right up. Same bolt pattern bolt right up. No issues and also thank you very much for watching the video and thank you so much for your comments
Hello, thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comments. As for the HEI ignition system that I used in the video, what I did was I used the stock Mopar distributor for electronic ignition that became available beginning in 1973 and lasted until 78 or 79. An easy way to tell that you have a correct electronic ignition distributor for a Mopar is to look at the body of the distributor and make sure it has a vacuum canister that vacuum canister that a vacuum hose hooks up to provides the ignition advance and retard as the engine is running. That is what I used in the video. Now, if you find an electronic ignition distributor that has no vacuum advance canister, you should avoid that because that distributor has no means to advance or retard the ignition that particular style of distributor is for the lean burn ignition system and I would generally avoid those distributors for that particular use. So again find a distributor that has the vacuum advanced canister on the side of the distributor. It is very similar to like what you will see in the video. Again, thank you very much. If you have any for the questions feel free to ask
I have had 3 icm and now 3 hei modules go bad. I've bought good products too. Any ideas why these are going bad. They run awesome for a couple of hours then start to sputter and run bad. I replace the module and boom great for a few hours again.
Hey just seen your comment. Unfortunately what you're going through is what a lot of people have went through, including myself and basically the Chinese and a lot of our new parts, especially electronics parts is just horrifically mad. However, let me do question you about a couple of things first you know. Make sure you have an excellent ground. There's nothing questionable about the ground. Where the your mounting? Any ignition module there has to an excellent ground to the chassis body work of the car. If the vehicle you're dealing with has a separate chassis make sure you have a separate ground that goes from the chassis to the body work and then of course a separate ground that runs from that body work to the engine block. Then you want of course a separate ground that runs from the engine block to the battery negative side. But I want to question you about your grounds. And also I'd like to know what brands your your buying as for your ignition parts. As for me, I'm going to go and tell you that I've been using the wells brand ignition parts that I've got from O'Reilly Auto parts. Those seem to be doing very well also. You may want to look at ACDelco or
I meant to say Delphi and then I went and sent the answer or reply. Anyway, you may want to look for Delphi parts AC, Delco Wells or Napa etchlin brand. Those seem to be far better in quality than stuff that you can receive at autozone or advance Auto at one time I worked for advance Auto and I can tell you their electronic stuff is very bad and usually with autozone or advance Auto parts, their electronic stuff you usually have to buy several of them to get one good one I also like to say thank you so much for your comments. Thank you for your watching the video and also have yourself a great set of holidays. Merry Christmas! God bless
@slantfish65sd thanks for the reply. I have been purchasing the accel hei from oriley. The icm was from Jegs. It was awesome for a few hours. So I switched to the hei after several icm. The ground is good. I'm trying a 1.4ohm coil instead of a .7ohm. I will see if that works now. Im using no ballast now with the 1.4ohm coil
First of all, I'd like to say thank you very much for watching the videos. I really seriously appreciate that. Really helps out the channel okay. As far as making this GM HEI module work with your distributor in your Dakota, I'm assuming we're talking about the V6 Dakota 3.9 l that being the case you're going to need to probably it's probably will work because the distributors in those year Dakota's being that it's 1987, those distributors will have a module pickup module that is inside the distributor and I can't remember. I've seen some 87 model Dakota's with fuel injection some with carburetors. So going back to the distributor those distributors that year those years had no provision for any timing advancement they didn't have. A any way to advance the ignition timing while the engine was running. They don't have a vacuum canister look at your distributor and make sure it doesn't have the vacuum canister. Or pod on the side of the distributor body. If it doesn't then you're going to need to get yourself a V8 electronic distributor for like a 318 that has a vacuum advance pod on the side of the distributor. You can find those in like the Dodge trucks. Probably 1980 and back. Just to be safe I'd say 1978 and back then you're going to have to take out the reluctor wheel that's under the rotor button in the distributor. That is what tells the pickup to tell the ignition module when to fire the coil. Now you would have to pull off your electric wheel from the V6 distributor to put into the V8 distributor that you're going to use. That way that distributor will only send six signals. The pickup in the distributor will only pick up six teeth on that reluctor wheel and there is another way to do this. However, you may have some issues with this. You could use just the V6 distributor cap on a V8 distributor. That way you get the vacuum advanced canister and you can run the GM HEI module if you don't have some way to advance the spark then the engine may run poorly at higher RPMs or run poorly at lower RPMs so you can wire up the stock distributor that comes with that engine to work with GMHEI distributor module. It just won't have any ability to advance the timing curve, so I hope this answers your questions. If you have any further questions about this, feel free to ask. Thank you!
Did this to my son's 73 Plymouth duster with a slant6 works great. Idles alot better
Thank you for watching that duster sounds cool
Great video! Your garage work bench looks like mine.😎
What a awesome video,Thanks for sharing this information much appreciated. I used a Summit Racing GM HEI style on my 89 W 250 360 LA worked great,however I had clearance issues with the Distributor cap being much wider. The distributor body interfered with my firewall in wich I clearanced with a Hammer 🔨..lol. I like your idea much better 😉👍👌.
First of all, thank you for watching. I really appreciate it. And I also was thinking about doing the GM HEI style distributor on my small block Mopar's but like you said in the trucks, the firewall is a real problem. So I will probably be doing this kind of setup. But that HEI distributor is great because it has that big massive cap that gets you plenty of clearance from one spark plug. Contact to the other and doesn't allow as much spark scatter
Cool video great explanation. Think I’m going to do this on my coronet during my 360 swap
Thank you very much for watching the video. Really appreciate it and thank you for the comments. As for the ignition swap to a GM HEI module, I like them really well. If the current crop of Mopar ignition components wasn't garbage, I would be all on board for those. But unfortunately lots and lots of electronics are coming out of China and which means quality just isn't there. It's non-existent so you may want to think about doing that. And I like the idea of your swap of a 360 into a coronet
Seems like a magic trick... I've been trying this on my dinning room table for 3 days now...
Sorry for not responding sooner. I've had a lot on my plate. I've been dealing with a lot of very very bad weather here at my home but I want to say thank you so much for watching the videos and your comments. Very nice of you. As far as like getting the HEI system to work with the Mopar distributor go to a website called Allpar they have a wiring diagram that is very good. It shows the distributor, the ignition module, even the ground wire or the ground for the ignition module. Also they show the power wire coming to and supply and power to the module and also to the coil. It's really really good. Basically, if you cannot get the system to work, you may have one or more wires in the wrong place again, my apologies were not responding sooner Make sure you're eliminating the ballast resistor in the system. It the GM module works with a straight 12 volts to it. Okay so you don't have to worry about the ballast resistor it's not necessary just bypass it
@slantfish65sd Awesome, thanks for the advice! You bet i'll keep trying!
@@slantfish65sd also I hope you are well! Godspeed!
Hey coyote, check out my latest video. I made it specifically to address the issues I have with the current video that talks about the HEI ignition module being used with the Mopar distributor situation there and get your setup to working like it should. Oh one other little thing to keep in mind. Make sure to at least use dielectric grease on the back of the ignition module when you mount it to a heat sink at least dielectric grease. Use that. There is a heat paste type grease material. It is white in color. Probably would be able to get it from Amazon or eBay. If I can come up with a part number or a supplier? I will let you know
Great job on the example of a working system which is a super vid for beginners to see how the ign systems works and it's always nice to get that score from the boneyard - I enjoy that too. Question for you, Why go for the GM module instead of the factory Mopar? The theory is it gives more spark, but has this been proven? And is it more reliable? I must say I never had much trouble with mine. Thanks for the video.
First of all, thank you for watching. I really appreciate it. As far as I know, anybody like proving that the GM HEI ignition module provides more spark. I don't know of anybody actually doing this. It would be a good video, though I'd say probably somebody probably might be able to do this in a garage, but it may be kind of difficult. However, at a racetrack or on a dyno this might be easier to prove out but the reasons for getting rid of the Mopar ignition box or brain box. Whatever you like to call it. The reasons for getting rid of that is because it has to run at less than 12 volts, which means you have to use the ballast resistor in order to make it work and still live. You can temporarily run it at straight 12 volts, but it won't live for very long like that. Furthermore, the the supply of today's ignition brain boxes and the baluster resistors is nothing great. Thank you, China so that's the reason why I'm trying this system out and seeing if it's going to work out really well it's like I said in the video it will be going on the $50 318 and I'll be using it on that and then I may also use it on the ramcharger or my 5th Avenue and in the GM HEI module takes a straight 12 volts and eliminates the baluster resistor all together which I've had a lot of trouble with over the years. Honestly when I go into junkyard or salvage yard and if there's any older Mopar's there that has the brain boxes I pick them up by snag them although the supply of today's ignition brain boxes and ballast resistors are absolutely garbage so thank you again and if there's any other questions I can answer for you I'll do my best. Thank you!
@@slantfish65sd Thanks for the reply. In fairness, I've been out of the game for a while but always interested. Unfortunately sold my 68 Dart - you know, family, house with acreage, etc., at time thinking I could get back in the game in the future as they were plentiful back then in the 90s. Boy was I wrong, albeit some 30yrs later. To be honest I wanted in sooner than this but other priorities come over it. Unfortunately I could see the $ skyrocketing for these old Mopars over the years even for rust heaps. I did pick up a 72 Duster a couple of yrs ago but haven't had the $ or time to do much to it yet. Body is 99% rust free except the typical under the tail lights area, but does have dings and dents. It is complete body, with 8-3/4, 4.30 gears (too high for my liking) fresh brakes. Motor is mostly there but partially disassembled. For now I am thinking of pulling the known low mileage excellent condition 318 out of my 1981 Cordoba that is in the back 40 and throwing that in with the lockup transmission. It has been sitting for 20 yrs so I am going to pull the heads off, make sure everything is free and clean before installing in the Duster. One of the missing pieces from the Duster (there are a few) is the Distributor. I am debating whether to install an original points style (I don't have one) or go with the electronic (I do have one and a box) that I kept for yrs but I am missing the factory connector for the Mopar distributor (I know I could connect without but that would be kind of hokey). The Cordoba 318 had the lean burn so that dist. is useless. Where I am going is that I have seen some other vids in the past where they installed the GM unit and pondered doing what your are doing here. Just need to decide which way to go. I do know the Mopar electronic is better than points but points don't leave you on the side of the road too often and if they do it is an easy fix. So you give me more food for thought. I suppose the bottom line is if I did go this route I would make sure I have another bone yard or Chinesium spare of the electronic unit. In any event sorry for the long winded reply and keep up the good work.
@@chumleye1112 I encourage you strongly do it. Get that duster running. Love to see it. As far as ignition system, you might want to think about using a points distributor which can be used to trigger an MSD box or a GM HEI module. Just something to think about, although I like where you're going with the entire project, you may want to also think about maybe picking up an inexpensive Magnum motor out of like 92 and later Dodge pickup. That would work really well in that duster
Good video! Ignition systems (although simple) are not really my strong point. 🙄
I get the basics with both the the primary and secondary wiring.
But when it comes down to the specifics, IE. Does the coil need to have built in resistance, and if so how much. I know the starting voltage needs 12v ( battery voltage) but the run voltage should drop to around 8v.
I have no idea how to do this, either on a run stand, or after installing in my truck.
1992, that I am trying to eliminate and bypass the old computer.
Any thoughts on this?
Hey, thank you sidewinder for your continued support. The older Mopar electronic ignition system which used a brain box and a balancer resistor the voltage in that system starts out with 12 volts and gets cut down to about 8 volts. Like you said that is so that the computer the brain box ignition computer can live a long time. If it runs with straight 12 volts the Mopar ignition brain box. It won't last as long. That's why they employ the ballast resistor furthermore, the GM HEI ignition module takes straight 12 volts. So the idea is that it would have more voltage going to the plugs. Don't know if anybody's tested this or not. Maybe I'll be able to test that in the future video. Don't know for sure as far as you bypassing the computer and getting rid of it in your truck. There's basically two ways to make this happen that I can think of right off the bat. The first is to go with an older wiring harness from let's say of 1986 or earlier Dodge truck that will allow you to have the to get rid of the computer all together. The best way to do this is to of course obtain the harness from an 86 or earlier Dodge truck. Lay it out on the ground and then lay out the harness from your 92 Dodge truck now. You'll probably also have to have wiring diagrams of both vehicles. Figure out what you need to do as far as modifications to that 86 harness to make it work in your 92 and also feed information to gauges. Now this may not be that easy, nor it may also not be very straightforward. You can also the other way is to leave the computer in place feeding information to the gauges and also working with the starting system in the truck the ignition switch and so forth it also will be controlling the alternator voltage regulator. You can leave it the factory computer in place. And do an ignition system independent of the computer. You can do something like this GM ATI module or a Mopar ignition system that uses the brain box in the ballast resistor or you could use some aftermarket system. MSD comes to mind and then the computer in that case would just be controlling the voltage regulator for the alternator and then feeding information to the gauges. It wouldn't be controlling the ignition system or the fuel system. I hope this helps. If you have any further questions let me know. Oh one more thing. If you need wiring diagrams let me know. I have books, manuals and I can at least send you pictures of the wiring diagrams
@@slantfish65sd
Thank you for replying.
The engine I will be putting in the truck is carburated, and I figure I'll go ahead and put an external voltage regulator on it as well, I'm trying very much to eliminate this computer. It is the 3rd one this truck has had in it and quality ones are getting expensive and hard to find.
I may hit you up for some of those wiring diagrams in the future.
Thank you so much!
👍
Will the magnum exhaust manifolds bolt up to an la motor?
Yes, very easily. However, you do need to be aware of where the exhaust manifold outlet is in relation to whatever chassis you're putting that engine and exhaust manifold in. But yes the magnum manifolds easily bolt right up. Same bolt pattern bolt right up. No issues and also thank you very much for watching the video and thank you so much for your comments
I have a 66 Dodge 225. Do you happen to have a part number for your Dodge hei distributor? Or a year/make/model to search with? Thanks.
Hello, thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comments. As for the HEI ignition system that I used in the video, what I did was I used the stock Mopar distributor for electronic ignition that became available beginning in 1973 and lasted until 78 or 79. An easy way to tell that you have a correct electronic ignition distributor for a Mopar is to look at the body of the distributor and make sure it has a vacuum canister that vacuum canister that a vacuum hose hooks up to provides the ignition advance and retard as the engine is running. That is what I used in the video. Now, if you find an electronic ignition distributor that has no vacuum advance canister, you should avoid that because that distributor has no means to advance or retard the ignition that particular style of distributor is for the lean burn ignition system and I would generally avoid those distributors for that particular use. So again find a distributor that has the vacuum advanced canister on the side of the distributor. It is very similar to like what you will see in the video. Again, thank you very much. If you have any for the questions feel free to ask
I have had 3 icm and now 3 hei modules go bad. I've bought good products too. Any ideas why these are going bad. They run awesome for a couple of hours then start to sputter and run bad. I replace the module and boom great for a few hours again.
Hey just seen your comment. Unfortunately what you're going through is what a lot of people have went through, including myself and basically the Chinese and a lot of our new parts, especially electronics parts is just horrifically mad. However, let me do question you about a couple of things first you know. Make sure you have an excellent ground. There's nothing questionable about the ground. Where the your mounting? Any ignition module there has to an excellent ground to the chassis body work of the car. If the vehicle you're dealing with has a separate chassis make sure you have a separate ground that goes from the chassis to the body work and then of course a separate ground that runs from that body work to the engine block. Then you want of course a separate ground that runs from the engine block to the battery negative side. But I want to question you about your grounds. And also I'd like to know what brands your your buying as for your ignition parts. As for me, I'm going to go and tell you that I've been using the wells brand ignition parts that I've got from O'Reilly Auto parts. Those seem to be doing very well also. You may want to look at ACDelco or
I meant to say Delphi and then I went and sent the answer or reply. Anyway, you may want to look for Delphi parts AC, Delco Wells or Napa etchlin brand. Those seem to be far better in quality than stuff that you can receive at autozone or advance Auto at one time I worked for advance Auto and I can tell you their electronic stuff is very bad and usually with autozone or advance Auto parts, their electronic stuff you usually have to buy several of them to get one good one I also like to say thank you so much for your comments. Thank you for your watching the video and also have yourself a great set of holidays. Merry Christmas! God bless
@slantfish65sd thanks for the reply. I have been purchasing the accel hei from oriley. The icm was from Jegs. It was awesome for a few hours. So I switched to the hei after several icm. The ground is good. I'm trying a 1.4ohm coil instead of a .7ohm. I will see if that works now. Im using no ballast now with the 1.4ohm coil
Will this work on the 1987 Dakota with the non point type?
First of all, I'd like to say thank you very much for watching the videos. I really seriously appreciate that. Really helps out the channel okay. As far as making this GM HEI module work with your distributor in your Dakota, I'm assuming we're talking about the V6 Dakota 3.9 l that being the case you're going to need to probably it's probably will work because the distributors in those year Dakota's being that it's 1987, those distributors will have a module pickup module that is inside the distributor and I can't remember. I've seen some 87 model Dakota's with fuel injection some with carburetors. So going back to the distributor those distributors that year those years had no provision for any timing advancement they didn't have. A any way to advance the ignition timing while the engine was running. They don't have a vacuum canister look at your distributor and make sure it doesn't have the vacuum canister. Or pod on the side of the distributor body. If it doesn't then you're going to need to get yourself a V8 electronic distributor for like a 318 that has a vacuum advance pod on the side of the distributor. You can find those in like the Dodge trucks. Probably 1980 and back. Just to be safe I'd say 1978 and back then you're going to have to take out the reluctor wheel that's under the rotor button in the distributor. That is what tells the pickup to tell the ignition module when to fire the coil. Now you would have to pull off your electric wheel from the V6 distributor to put into the V8 distributor that you're going to use. That way that distributor will only send six signals. The pickup in the distributor will only pick up six teeth on that reluctor wheel and there is another way to do this. However, you may have some issues with this. You could use just the V6 distributor cap on a V8 distributor. That way you get the vacuum advanced canister and you can run the GM HEI module if you don't have some way to advance the spark then the engine may run poorly at higher RPMs or run poorly at lower RPMs so you can wire up the stock distributor that comes with that engine to work with GMHEI distributor module. It just won't have any ability to advance the timing curve, so I hope this answers your questions. If you have any further questions about this, feel free to ask. Thank you!