This is less of a tutorial and more of an old school guy sharing his experience. Subscribed with the first video I watched. Time to go playlist trolling after this video.
Just want to take this opportunity to say thank you so much for watching the video and thank you for your subscribe and your comment and I really appreciate it. Really helps out the channel I try to share my experiences and and share what I know and what I've learned from working on vehicles and from being around them for so long that for as long as I have it's been some time but I really dislike it. When people don't share information that they have or knowledge that they have, they want to take it with them. I don't understand that it doesn't make any sense. It's like they're gatekeeping the car hobby and that's stupid. Makes no sense at all so I really appreciate you for subscribing and watching and sharing
@@slantfish65sd I have been fixing my own vehicles, as well as those of family and friends for 20+ years. But I'm new to Mopar, specifically the 318. I welcomed your knowledge!
I made 300 horsepower out of a 318 using a two barrel intake that came from a 1965 273 casting number 246 3252 I use the Holley 500 2 barrel list number 4412-6 I used a comp cams high energy cam a 454 lift I used a set of ProForm 15 roller rockers and the heads are 318 police style heads casting number 3302 this 318 sits under the hood of my 75 valiant makes 300 horsepower 330 foot pounds of torque and all with a two barrel the two barrel intake I had a gasket and the intake runners smooth out and it flows like a performer intake so that's my formula for a 300 horsepower 318 holla if you hear me
HP vs Torque is a balance. If you gain in one, you will loose on the other hand. The main thing is to try to keep the Torque curve steady all the way till HP take over.
Like this Video & Great information. I have built two 318's with 340 heads in the 1980's. Both times I was surprised how well & Fast they ran. Do not under estimate how well a 318 can run.
Sorry for not responding sooner. Also, I would like to express that I really appreciate you watching the video and the reason for my comments. Here is that yes the 318 is just as capable of running really well. Is most any other small block out there? And for a long time everybody thought of them is you know economy engines and that they're cheap and all of this. And honestly the there's a lot of the engine that is way way stronger than any kind of economy, engine or anything like that. In general a lot of 318s are just over built for durability which makes them ideal for like you know building them up for some sort of high performance use
@@slantfish65sdGreat video. I have a 1984 w100 dodge pickup with a 318 engine. I just ordered long tube headers for it from summit racing. I’m planning on going dual exhaust deleting the catalytic converter, resonator and muffler, going straight pipe.
@@dpierson489 hey, thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comments. As for lowering the compression ratio on the 318 by using a 340 head, you are right, it will do that, but it will increase performance quite a bit because you're gaining so much in airflow. The airflow that you're gaining through those heads is going to seriously outweigh the lost in compression and you can gain some of that back by going to the thinner head gasket also too. If you're so inclined, you can go and open up the engine and go with pistons that have a higher compression distance. This will get that compression back to where it was before but even with hell, even with smog 360 heads from the mid 70s 318 will definitely breathe better and gain more power. Even though they are losing some compression, they still will make better power with those heads because they will flow more air simple as that stop focusing so much on compression. Okay, it's it's important but it's not the only key element focus on air flow as well
I put a Holly Street demon curb and a high flow intake manifold and headers on my 318 and it's still struggles to spend the tires, any advice on how to make a little more power ?
cant wait to try some of this on my new 1987 ram van i got recently picked up. its a crusty old van but i think its got potential! no mopar left behind!
Great video. These la engines are kinda forgot in today's world magnums being the dinosaur but still a hard run for a ls engine. My 318 is built and it's mean. Light weight and high output. Love the la series
Those Magnum Manifolds on the V6 and V8 from 92-93 have a larger 2 1/8 collector vs the 94+ 1 7/8. The 92/93 are the best flowing stock manifolds for the Small block Mopars.
Yes I completely agree I've known about them since 93 and they are a little bit better than the 94 and later exhaust manifolds however both of those are way better the older log style manifolds used on the earlier LA small blocks also however finding the early Magnum manifolds maybe a bit difficult
230 BHP/150 Net I put the Edelbrock Performer Package on my 318 with true 2.25 dual exhaust & Thrust Turbo mufflers. Doubled the power and sounded soooooooo good!
Awesome! Sounds like you're on the right track. Want to say thank you so much for watching the video and thank you so much for your comments. I really appreciate it and also I just want to take this opportunity to tell you. Have a great Thanksgiving!
On malaise-era LA engines, when you take the front off and put the requisite double-row chain and gear set, get a 4 degree offset woodruff key for the camshaft gear from a speed shop and install to advance the cam 4 degrees. This worked well on the regular LAs, or the LA premium municipal police/fleet cars that I worked on back in the late 70s, and the 80s.
I've heard of this before but thank you for reminding me. And also thank you for watching the video and think of your comments and they appreciate it. Have yourself a great day. If you have any further questions feel free to ask. God bless
Spot on. Especially the part of using an o2 sensor gauge for tuning. I really want to install 1. My dad and I set up my 318 charger when I was a kid. Long tube hooked headers, 2.5 dual pipes, wiend medium rise intake, edelbrock 600, stock cam. A cam and an ignition system is all that's left to do.
Its goot to know about these for my power wagon, i replaced the carb from a 4 barrel holley to a 600CFM 4 barrel edelbrock, bought it with manifolds (unknown) and cherry bombs on it
the 318 magnum is a insanely cheap engine for performance. you need performance heads, camshaft, air intake, and exhaust headers. all of the sudden you have a beast of a naturally aspirated engine.
Yes, the magnum 5.2 318 is really inexpensive and even better is that it's very widely available. Made thousands and thousands and thousands of them. And it responds well to modifications and improvements and even better than that is rock solid, durable, well engineered and people still give it a lot of shade. Throw a lot of shade at its way and say it's a junk and economy engine and not worth the trouble and how incredibly wrong they are. Anyway, thank you for watching the video. Any further questions feel free to ask
the 318 is a LA engine brother to a 273,340 , 360 , a 5.2 & 5.9 respectively. you can bolt on a four-barrel dual exhaust. heads , the 318 is the basic start above the 273 most parts are interchangeable, a real underappreciated work horse. I loved everyone I owned up to the Magnums.
@@8092DJ yes different from the big block I think a B block 318 Poly head the LA family was a small block light engine started with the 273 up to the 360 one of Chryslers killer engine family's except for the 361 I had 318s in all my Plymouths loved them dearly
Had a roller 318 (323) hi compression oval track mtr for my dodge sportsman was @580hp one a few races with it against 355 & 383 chevies. Got protested a lot. Fun times!
Man thankyou i have an 84 d150 and its gonna be my first build ever it has a 318, with a old SINGLE barrel carb at the moment but ill be changing that soon!
First of all, I'd like to say thank you very much Max for watching the videos and if you want more information about how to modify your 318 then just follow along as I continue work on the $50 318 and if you have any other further questions let me know
One thing about sizing a carb. If you go to a large carb, you can jet it down, however, the larger the throat, the slower air flows across your spray nozzles. You want to be pulling that air fast across those nozzles, to suck gas from the carb bowls.
Your logic does make sense and I don't disagree with you. However, I have a friend right now that has a 232 cubic inch slant 6. That's a 225. That's bored. 60 over and it has a 750 CFM Holley dual line double pumper carb on it and he races that and he's won quite a few races with that set up and as you might have imagined it's nowhere near stock now on a stock engine. Yeah that probably wouldn't even come close to working. The throttle response would be really sluggish lazy but also too think about this for just a minute. In the mid '80s Chrysler Mopar was building 318 engines to be used in police cars, the Plymouth Grand fury and the Dodge diplomat. These cars had an 850 CFM Carter thermalquad that was driving around like a normal car and then later they switched over to a similar size GM Rochester quadrajet carburetor so again I'm not necessarily arguing with you. However, there's some evidence here that it says otherwise and Chrysler's engineers in the past were some of the best around
I've had my 85 d150 with a 318 and 4 speed transmission with 4x4 for a couple years now and this is the first actually informative video I've found for my truck,thank you for the ideas and info, just subscribed wondering if you could possibly make another video on tuning the carb it has a sputter and I can't seem to figure out why. Loved the video though!!
I've done a lot of Fords and Chevy's, but just got my 1st Mopar to dive into. Glad I came across your channel on this stuff and hit that button up there to see more.
Just found your channel. The 89W150 with TBI360 is my profile pic I had bought stock from the original owner back in 2002. I eventually swapped in D60's and cross over steering. Rolled on 38" Swamper SSR's. Currently I'm stripping the good parts off of it. I bought it's stock 89W150 clone, same color, but the TBI 318. Glad you giving me some information. I'm going to ditch the TBI and go with a throttle body fuel injection from Edelbrock possibly. Iv'e got the green Haynes manual of course...lol
Hey, first of all, thank you very much for watching. Thank you for your comments. Sound like you got some pretty good plans there. As for the Hanes manual, i'd rather have that than nothing at all. Let me know how everything works out for you. If you need any more information, I'll be glad to help
Yeah they throttle body fuel injected LA small blocks were okay for their intended purpose but when you want more power and you want more torque than you're going to have to go with aftermarket fuel injection or a carburetor. Especially you'll have to do that. If you want to start making changes like different camshafts or cylinder heads that flow more air throttle body injection systems. They can't really handle any real significant changes. They can't even really handle a set of long tube headers
I bought a 318 cop motor by accident. I didn't know what it was, I bought it because it had a stock Quadrajet. I pulled the timing cover and it had a double roller timing set in it. I scratched my head and checked the casting numbers of the heads. They were proprietary, cop heads. They had large ports with 2.02 intakes and 1.60 exhausts. I checked the cam numbers and it had a 340 6 Pack cam. It was, basicly a 340 6 Pak in a 318 block. No wonder they were fast! A good way to get a hot 318 is to find a cop motor.
Thank you very much for your comments and also thank you very much for watching the video. Really appreciate it as you've probably seen in the video, this video is mainly dealing with the mountains of 318 engines that aren't like yours that are the regular run of the mail. Two barrel variety that were in everything. But yes, I totally agree with you. Those cop car engines really awesome which just goes to prove the whole entire point of what I was talking about in the video about improving all the systems on the 318 like your induction system, your exhaust system, and all of a sudden you've got an engine that's way more efficient and makes more power. And really all of that stuff really wakes that engine up
Also if I can I would love to get my hands on a cop car engine but they were produced 30 years ago so it mean it's possible anything's possible but I'll keep looking
Thanks for the valuable info on these old 318's, I've the old family van I've been sprucing up and rebuilding, nothing crazy but I have fun sometimes. For a real kick that got me searching for things I can do check out the japanese Dajiban racing circut's.
Yes, I have seen these Dajiban Vans and they're very cool. There is a TH-cam channel called donut Media. They did a special about them. And like I said really cool really awesome and thank you very much for your wonderful comment and thank you very much for your time watching the video and I will check out more of the Dajibans
This is a great video for the average guy. I have an 02 dodge with a 360 magnum. Learned a few things and plan on doing long tube headers on it here soon. The current has a magnaflo knockoff that's turned out right before the right rear tire. Get a lot of compliments on the sound it makes and it sounds much faster than it actually is.
Sounds like you're on the right track. Yeah, long tube headers is a excellent wave building performance everywhere and they increase horsepower and torque everywhere all over the rpm range also, thank you for watching the video and thank you for your comments. Have a great day! Have any further questions feel free to ask
First of all, thank you very much for your comments and watching the video. I really appreciate it. You have excellent suggestions and ideas over this video and this entire channel really is low. Buck and I don't know about you but every stroker kit I've ever checked on was extremely ridiculously overpriced so this video was produced and the idea behind it was to get more performance out of the 318 while not spending a vast king's ransom of money now. However, 318 put together with all of the gap. It's going to be awesome. No doubt about it. But like I said before I try to do things on the on the less expensive side and get the most performance I can out of everything. Thank you again
I got a 77 dodge d100 with a 318 and a 3 on the tree. It’ll smoke the tires all the way through 1st and it’ll screech in between 1st and 2nd. The 318 is a fabulous engine. I’m able to do all that with the stock carter 2 barrel and a “custom” exhaust
First of all, I want to say thank you very much for watching the video. Really appreciate it and thank you for your comment. Something to remember is that when an engine is geared properly aka the gears in the rear axle when they're accurately matched to the engines output that engine can seem like it's way more powerful than you ever would have thought. So if you have lower gears like say 411 or 373 or 390 or something like that that 318 probably seems very very stout and gives that 318 excellent acceleration off the line. However, downside is that they will top out in RPMs sooner so you're top end. Your top end speed isn't all that much. But if you have higher years like say 323 -290 276 those sort of gear ratios. Then they're not going to have real good acceleration off the line. But they're going to have a really great top end. Those are commonly referred to as airplane gears
Great information, thanks. I just picked up a Ram Charger with 318 for $150 cam trade. I will use your tips to make improvements as I complete the restoration on "Chuck Norris". I'm looking forward to building up my first Mopar!
I have always heard that the Keith Black pistons make a huge difference by bringing it up to a true zero deck height vs sitting slightly below like the stock pistons do.
@@rustypliers74 Rusty pliers I like the name. Let me help you out here just a little bit. When you are picking out an aluminum intake please do be very careful. Not all aluminum intakes are created equal. Some are considerably better than others and some are just downright awful. Also, when you are porting your heads and polishing them, be careful about polishing the intake runner the intake Port because if you make it too smooth then the fuel when it's traveling through that intake Port will not stay in suspension. It may create puddles. The reason is the reason for that is this. You need to have some roughness in the intake Port and that will create a tumbling effect of the air. When it goes through that Port it wants to tumble and when it tumbles it keeps that fuel molecules in suspension in the air. That's traveling through that port. Now the exhaust ports. On the other hand that's different. Yes you do want to polish them. The reason for that is that if they are smooth they will flow better and they usually have a much greater effect. The smoothness really doesn't help the flow that much but what it does do is it creates less of a structure for the exhaust gases, the exhaust particles in the gas to attach themselves to so the exhaust Port will stay basically cleaner and you won't have buildup in the exhaust port
First off, Randy Brzezinski has documented that a two into one exhaust system increases torque and horsepower... think of a Kerker header on a motorcycle. Also, no mention of muffler cfm? Check the cfm listed by the manufacturer. The best intake manifold for the 318 is from Weiand, by far.
Well, thank you very much for watching this video and thank you very much for commenting and I would like to also say thank you very much because you've given me a great idea for a video so I'll be seeing you
My black single cab dodge dakota R/T has 3 inch exhaust, mopar mid length hedders, TB spacer, ac delete along with fan clutch, k&n air intake kit. Beefed trans with shift kit. An beefier stall. Let's just say I've give lightnings a hard run for their money.
Here's one for you! I drive a 89 d100 with a 318 and my muffler fell completely off and it's still so quiet you can barely hear it run! Blows me away lol!
Thank you so much for watching the video and thank you for your comment. As to your comment, yes, the 318 is an extremely capable engine. I think some people are really starting to realize just how good they can be now. Of course there are limits to everything and there's going to be. You know some people will break a few blocks and break a few crankshafts and that sort of thing and there's going to be some limits but they are tremendously capable engines like a lot of other Mopar agents. Whatever reason, probably because and this is. This is probably because the three teams never really put into any accounts are performance application so they don't think of the 318 as being a performance engine. Some people either think that the 360 can't be built as a performance engine and at the 340 is the only way to go and it's no that's hogwash so anyway, yeah I completely agree with you. 318 is a great engine. You have any further questions feel free to ask
rebuilding my 318 total billet and forded race build hopefully going to make 500 to 600 horse. Full drag build but i’m just putting it in my truck and going to drive it like a baby.
If you manage to build a 318 up to anywhere even remotely close to 600hp without supercharging (with all of those associated troublesome issues) and then try to drive it on the street you aren't gonna like its manners. The woes and fails of too many performance fans revolve around overbuilding something they wanna drive on the street. This is why you see so many cars like this that end up for sale after the owner has spent a few days trying to row the thing through traffic. An honest 400hp from a 318 is the best you can reasonably expect and that's gonna be marginal if you want to actually enjoy driving it like a cruiser.
Thanks for the great info. I have a 74 ramcharger I am hoping to get back on the road soon. . Now if only I could find more mopar used parts locally that you mentioned swapping on my 318.
First of all, thank you for watching the video. Really seriously appreciate it. If you can't find anything local, then Facebook marketplace, eBay, craigslist or go to maybe one of your local drag strips. Find somebody racing a Mopar there. Strike up a chat with him. I'm a member of several groups home Mopar groups on Facebook, I know Facebook can be a pain in the butt. Sometimes it pays off
I tried to get this out to all the Dodge people with stock ignition systems, the Napa Mo 3000 rotor is a performance will give more power to the plugs because the rotor Gap is too big you notice the spark goes up not across to the contact.
Thank you for that bit of information. I was unaware of that Napa part number. I will definitely be looking into that and checking that out. Also, I want to say thank you for watching the video and thank you for your comment and you are right, there are some rotor buttons that don't fit correctly. I've had trouble with that, especially a lot of the Chinese made stuff. Can be very aggravating again, thank you
Mopar Performance engine book says the factory Thermoquad intake makes more power than the square bore AVS intake, even with a square bore carb on a spread bore adapter.
You are correct sir. I read that same bit of text myself. Yes, the cast iron thermal quad intake spreadboard intake is exceptional. It is a very well made piece That's why I mentioned it in the video but it's a. It's an excellent piece and I'm glad you appreciate the video. Thank you for watching
Built street 318 la for 1500eur, it is possible to build in budget but had headers and carb already so that helped.. Get cam kit+intake, port heads and deck the block and you should see results
Hello Max folio, thank you very much for your wonderful comment and thank you so much for watching the video. Yes, I was highlighting all of those elements in the video of you know. Improve all of these elements you know. Intake carburation exhaust cylinder heads compression improve all of those things and you can see a tremendous gain and performance. The reality is is that the 318s when they came out of the factory that a lot of them were built with very low compression head flow. That was not very good in taking carburetors that were and exhaust manifolds that were not really contributing to that engine's capabilities. But you are right, and I thank you so have yourself a great day. If you have any further questions feel free to ask. God bless and just as a further question, I notice you said 1500 EUR in your comment. Are you talking about euros? Is this engine in some part of the European continent? If so, let me know okay, just be kind of a fun and interesting fact. Would love to see pictures of whatever it is you're working on okay. Again, thank you very much
@@slantfish65sd yes your video was on point for starting out what to upgrade for 318, cam swap and decking the block to fix compression requires abit more knowhow👍 maybe one thing to mention is getting thinner head gasket that helps too can maybe up the compression 0.5 point Restoring my 68 sport satellite in finland so thats why the euros. Hopped up the 318 it came with by getting an air gap intake 500eur, decked the block with new cheapo rockauto pistons for 100eur a set. Got comps xe262h cam kit for 500eur, basically zero overlap low end torque cam. Rebuilt cylinder heads for 50eur, lapped new cheap valves to fix guide play and added new guide viton seals. It helped the heads had bronze guides already, was suprised but valves had thick deposits.. Did port match as air gap is for 360 port size and some port work to clean the casting, still rockin the stamp steel rocker arms. If you wanna upgrade rockers it will cost alot, the chinese sets are not really an upgrade over original as you would need to fix the rocker shaft geometry for those to work properly.. Oh yeah and new pushrods since decked, so overall likee 500+500+100+50+100 and like 300 machining work. Helped I could mill the heads myself also having the carb and headers already too. So not too expensive to build 318 if you keep the original rotating assembly and rockers💪 everyone ask why not have big block, well they are expensive here and this was done on student budget👍
I myself have built up a 318. Doing a lot of what you are talking about, with a few more you didn’t bring up. I managed to beat a Chevy pickup with a 350 bored and stroked to a 383. I used it in a short bed pickup weighing 3400 #.
Well for top five video I wanted to focus on the most important things. Sure, there is a few other items you can do to a 318 or any engine for that matter and make more power, but I wanted to focus on the items that I felt were the most important and which gain the most power and give you the best bang for the buck also, thank you very much for watching. If you have any further questions let me know
Excellent information! Thank you for taking the time to put this out. I am glad your channel is growing! Keep up the good work, it is much appreciated! 👍
Thank you for this video u have a 318 powered ramcharger and the thing runs very decent for a motor with 220,000 it starts every time doesn't tick or knock my only worry is it's age I have beat the crap out of it with the wimpy 2 barrel and it's been sturdy for all of it so I'm wondering if it's time for a 4 barrel and manifold
To answer your question more correctly, basically there is a whole series of things you need to be looking at and evaluating to make sure that you're not going to damage the engine by putting on a four barrel. I would say that as long as you have really good oil pressure at idle when the engine is warmed up. Probably in the neighborhood of 30 PSI or better I'd say between 30 and maybe 60 PSI. Good vacuum with the original two barrel on there. If you have let's say 16, 17. Maybe as little as 15 or 14 in of vacuum. You'll probably be okay there. Also take a look at your blow by. That's the amount of air or pressure getting by the piston rings. If you take off the oil cap of the engine while it's idling and you see just puff puff puff puff puff you know coming out of the valve cover one of the valve covers either one. Then chances are you probably got an engine that is in need of some serious rebuilding your you have too much compression leaking past the rings now when you are checking for this blow by make sure the engine is at operating temperature. Okay? Also, if your engine passes all of this for flying colors, you know it's not pushing oil out into the air cleaner. That's another way to see. If you have blow by and you don't have any other issues with the engine then I would probably go ahead and do it. But you know just keep in the back of your mind that you know you. You're adding two more barrels to this thing. You need to be aware that you know that right foot doesn't need to be too heavy. 220,000, mi is quite a bit of mileage. I would seriously consider adding a new timing set in there. Okay, double roller All right. I hope this helps. If you have any other questions feel free to ask
@@slantfish65sd wooooahhhh info overload. this is what i been looking into recently. my goal is to bring backold school mopar wrenchin. not alot of stuff out there for 318 magnum engines.currently did some home port n polish and deck shave on a stock 2barrel. and now my dakota is very snappy and responsive.wondering if id lose power going into a 4 barrel. currently have jba headers and open k&n chrome filter set.
I don't know if we have any motor head geeks out here that like history, back in the day, 1960's the only after market muffler was a Cherry bomb glass pack that didnt add any power at all, just made it noisier. You hear the term "Turbo" muffler, well that was a Chevrolet Factory designed Muffler for the Turbo Corvair and it was the second best flowing muffler you could get, the best flowing muffler was the Hemi Cars, you could go to any Mopar dealer and buy a Hemi muffler and have the best flowing exhaust you could buy but the Hemi Mufflers were so so expensive, so most real gear heads that wanted actual performance Mufflers, usually went to the Chevy dealership because they were cheap and worked well. As I said there was no real after market exhaust system until later Into the 70's with muffler Shops opening up.and building a copy of a Turbo muffler. Also, the Turbo mufflers were short because they fit under a rear engined Car and that was a huge benefit to us geeky Rodders of the day who wanted real free HP and a good sound that kept the PoPo away. Anyway, I've got a ton of These, Ttyl
First of all, thank you very much for your comments. Thank you for watching. Very much appreciate that. I am definitely a gearhead and definitely love knowing about those older historical references to the turbo muffler's and also the hemi muffler's. I've heard of all of this before it's and that's where a lot of our aftermarket performance exhaust systems came from from the '60s when there wasn't the big aftermarket. There was also correct me if I'm wrong but wasn't there. Also a chambered exhaust muffler that was being used by Chevrolet on the some of the Camaros I think something to look into so anyway, thank you very much
I've been daily driving a '92 Dakota with the Magnum for tue last 10 years. Just over 220K on the dash and she's lost some compression. Been thinking about dropping a 360 in her, or even a hemi if she'll fit. But I don't really need 400 horses. Looks like you can easily get to 320 with one of these for cheap.
318 check, 2,5" exhaust check, pipe headers check, 750 cfm holley check, electronic ignition system check now i need a good intake for the 4 barrels (cant get a cheap one in germany :((
Apologies for not getting back to you sooner as far as intake manifolds go you could buy used as long as that parr is in really good condition you should ok also don't overlook the factory cast iron four barrel intakes that came on 360's
Bought a 72 scamp with slant 6. It doesn't run. Junkyard has LA 318 cheap from RV camper. May go 360 magnum and carb route. Great video more to think about. Already have a 727 just abit lost which engine to go with.thanks for the great video
First thank you very much for the compliment but let's be serious the slant six is a fun engine you can do a lot to it and it will respond and make more power and torque and they're great but you can do the same amount of work to a 318 or 360 and the results are way way better. Typical hot rotting practices are going to be headers. Camshaft intake manifold and carburetor and ignition system do all of that to a slant six? And you can expect 220 250 horse. However, as you're doing that to a slant six depending on what camshaft you get, the car can become more and more undrivable in day-to-day driving situations. Do all of this to a 318 or 360 and you can expect quite a bit more potential? Quite a bit more horsepower and torque. You know your torque figures will probably be in the 300 range horsepower figures on the low end for a 318 will be in the with stock heads you're looking at. Probably 285 to maybe 295. If I were you, I would seriously consider the LA318 if you go that direction swapping over to a 360. Magnum is very very simple, very easy. There are engine swap mounts Schumacher used to make some lots of times though. You can just simply find the correct mounts for your year of car and usually they were used for several years so it's not terribly hard. It's a little bit of a hassle, but you know just get with people who have a lot of other mopar's as well and finding the correct bits and pieces like mouths. Maybe even the wiring harness. You know stuff like that art isn't going to be all that hard. Okay thank you very much and I hope this helps. If you have any other questions, just drop a comment and I'll be glad to help you out
@@slantfish65sd hey thanks for the response. The slant 6 hasn't been started in over 15years according to owner, he also stated last time it drove it didn't sound healthy.. I was able to spin the fan/belt very easily..not positive but may be low compression.im only guessing I could be wrong. I'm pretty sure I will be dropping the slant 6. The plymouth scamp did come with a rad and some wiring for a 340 in the trunk. As guy claimed he planned on 340 swap so he gathered a few parts. I will definitely hit you up with questions along the way if you dont mind as you seem to know your stuff very well and I'm kind of new to the older mopar world and appreciate any guildiness on this stuff as questions pop up. Thanks again:)
@@joshthiessen6770 Be aware, that an RV 318 could be lower compression, as put in the bigger trucks. I've got 1 that I rebuilt that had piston .186 in the hole, or below the deck at tdc. It came out to 7.2:1 compression. Had to go with a new set of pistons from Summit.
Chinese airgap , dual plain intake with both LA & Magnum , bolt patterns . Inexpensive way to 4 barrel the 5.2 magnum . However it is a small port intake and not suitable for 360 cylinder heads
California reds, they give you the best performance and if you go to an a half inch exhaust or 3 inch it’ll make a big difference, this is what I found with my my 318. Oh, they can hear you for miles.
I found the same issue with a Flowmaster 40 series I believe. Ended up cutting the end of the muffler off Dremeling the hole bigger and welding it back up
First time listening to your videos. You are very knowledgeable. I have a question. I have a 1994 b250 van. She has the 318 in her. I noticed that I had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. Upon further investigation, I found that a pipe that is mounted into the back of the engine going to the manifold on the passenger side has burned out. Question; what is that pipe for?
Sandy, first, thank you so much for watching the video. I really appreciate it. Helps out. The channel that pipe you're referring to is an EGR pipe. It goes from the back of the exhaust manifold to your intake manifold. What it does is it just carries some exhaust gases that get recirculated back into the intake. That's what EGR stands for exhaust gas recirculation so there's a couple of options you can do on this. You can go to the salvage yard junkyard and find one on a existing engine like yours or you might be able to get one of these brand new from like rockauto or some of the other auto parts suppliers. Maybe even Amazon those are options. However, some people have went safarias to like just cut that tube and then fold the ends over to where that they seal and not worry about it. That's been something some people will do as well. If you're going to drive the thing every day, I would replace the tube with a new one or somehow repair the tube. If you're not going to drive it every day, then you may want to consider the other option of just simply folding the ends of that tube up sealing them up. Maybe even having the tube welded up to seal it off and that's an option as well. So anyway, okay thank you very much. Have any further questions feel free to ask
Another TH-camr is not a big fan of headers. He says for near exclusive use on the track, yes. If mostly street use, 340/360 exhaust manifolds will do a marvelous job.
True the 340 exhaust manifolds are really really good pieces. Rivaling some headers, however, have you priced them lately? Oh my God not exactly cheap although none of this stuff is cheap. But yeah, if it's got Mopar 340 attached to it you can just about bet it's going to be expensive. So while the 340 manifolds do flow very well, I'm probably just going to use headers myself. But also the Magnum exhaust manifolds Day flow pretty good too. Way better than the stock manifolds. I don't think they're as good as the 340 manifolds, but as far as flow capability, as far as Magnum manifolds are concerned, the ones to really have are the 92-93 model exhaust manifolds. They have a bigger outlet than the 94 and later exhaust manifolds
Have a 318 ran 11:5s In a all steel 81 Dodge Mirada with a 300 shot its now being refreshed this winter and were putting it in a 71 Cuda backhalf drag car 14x32 MTs 4:88s 904 auto Fiberglass doors and frontend should run 10s with a 300 shot
First of all, thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comment. As for having a Mopar buddy and the Houston area, I can't really help you with that. I live in Eastern Tennessee near Knoxville however, if you have any questions about your your truck, your 67 d200 with 318 just let me know. I'll do whatever I can to help you out
Hi ! first, sorry for my bad english, i am from Argentina, and i just wanna to buy a grand cherokee 5.2 v8, i know is a 318 magmun engine... so i have many questions about it, but the fistone is... is a good engine? i mean.... not for perfomance, is a long life engine or is a problematic? Thanks so much for ypur help. Grettings from Argentina!
Hey, thank you very much for your comment and also thank you very much for asking your questions and I do appreciate all of that. And thank you very much for watching the video. As for the 5.2 in the Jeep Grand Cherokee, is it a long life engine? Is it very problematic? I'm going to answer those questions for you. Actually you for a long life engine. You would be hard-pressed to make a better choice. The 318 5.2 l engine is one of the best engines at Mopar Chrysler Jeep has ever produced. That particular version you're talking about is known as the Magnum 5.2. it is really fantastic little engine. I love them! They are Rock, solid, durable, reliable. They make good power and there are a long lasting engine especially when people take care of them and maintain them. You know like changing the oil in the filter you know doing tune-ups and that sort of thing you know making sure that engine's got everything it needs in order to do its job correctly. These are all things that you need to be aware of or really any kind of vehicle, but whenever you're doing them on a vehicle you want to maintain and keep for a long time. This helps out tremendously. The only real negative problem you're going to find with the 5.2 Magnum V8 engine is the there is a plate that sits under the intake manifold. That plate is made of a very thin sheet metal and if it hasn't been replaced, that plate will warp sometimes and the gasket will will blow out and then it will start to consume engine oil. Now it won't be very much. It's just a very little amount over a long extended period of time. But the issue is is that it will consume that oil and it will have a vacuum leak. The best thing to do is to pull the intake manifold off, replace that plate with a new gasket and there's a company out of California called Hughes engines. They specialize in Mopar engines and they sell a kit that replaces that plate with a thick aluminum plate. You bolts a new gasket. It's a very high quality gasket too. That is really the only downside. That is the only downfall those engines have. But like I said I love those engines. They are fantastic and they are extremely durable. Very reliable. And you'd be hard-pressed to find something better. And again, thank you very much and also if you have any further questions feel free to ask
@@slantfish65sd THANKS so much for your advice! i have videos and more and more questions because i want to bouy a one 1995 (american origin) here in Buenos Aires, Argentina. My problem is, we not have so much culture about V8 engines, of course classical v8 like 302, 292 from Ford because we built it, and 318 too but for dodge polara v8, and from grand cherokee from 1995 to 1999 in Argentina. In another way, the next saturdat i will see a one for buy, but i have so many questions and i have photos and videos. Thanks so much for your answer, and again, sorry for my bad english, its my second language and i am trying to improve it.
Hey Barney, first I'd like to say thank you so much for watching the video and thank you for your comments. As for what's going to be a really good intake and carburetor before that engine, there is two intake manifolds that I've been looking at and I think they're going to do really well for your engine. One is professional products and the other is speedmaster. Both are a dual plane intake manifold. They are both about five and a half inches high. And as far as carburetors are concerned i would probably if it were me. If it was my truck I would probably go with like an Edelbrock 650 CFM carburetor with anular boosters That's the venturies that are down in the throat of the carburetor. The fuel comes out in an anular style pattern so there's going to be the best options. I think for 318 you could step up to a larger carburetor although you're looking at more money. Those intakes run about 270 or so dollars. The carburetor is probably going to be just a shade under 500. There are cheaper carburetors out there but they may not perform as well and you may not be as satisfied and you're wanting to know what would be the best options. I think those would be the best options as far as bolted on and go straight out the box. Edelbrock is actually really good and they're actually pretty easy to change jets too hey Kevin, from the questions feel free to ask. Thanks very much
Raced the 273 BACK IN 1969,changed the carb,no power increase,kept the solid lifter cam that came with it,added fenderwell headers on my 1965 formula s commando engine,the power increase was dramatic,compression first,got to be 10.5 to 1 or you are wasting your time, the squish is everything,this engine will respond but needs comp,headers,3rd fastest car in kc mo in 1969,lightened the car about 900 lbs,all of the things i did to the 273 worked 5 years later on a 69 318 with bigger bore,decked the block to increase comp,it screamed,stop light to stop light,forget larger valves,port velocity is everything,everything,now you can criticize,i've got mad witnesses,it cost 75 bucks to race me then,won more money street racing than my job paid,ask my losers,there were many
@@strattuner hey just Read your post and yell for a 273. You don't need a lot of airflow, but you're really cutting yourself off. If you don't take advantage of more air flow with just better cylinder heads, I will agree with you though that compression is really important. You need to get the compression up however 10.5 to 1 on a street cast iron. Headed engine can be really difficult to work with if you don't pick your camshafts correctly so but I always come back to that question in my mind of yeah, you've got good compression but you don't have good air flow. How much more power would you be making with more air flow? Port velocity is important but you have to get good airflow you. It's just really important. I really criticizing you. I just don't agree with everything you're saying. But anyway, however, I do think I paid more attention to your post than you paid attention to my video. So anyway, thank you for your comments and have yourself a great day
If you would have a stock 318 in a '76 W200, what would you suggest swapping out? The 2 barrel carb to a 4 barrel, a better intake and adding some headers? How much HP you'd expect to gain and will it have a significanty higher fuel consumption?
Charger Belgium I hope I'm pronouncing that correctly. Thank you very much for watching the video. Really seriously helps out. And thank you very much for your comment. As for let's address fuel economy first. As for fuel economy and a 76w200 with any engine fuel companies not going to be great outside of maybe a diesel those years. Also, they would have hubs if I'm not mistaken. They would have the front hubs would not be able to be unlocked or locked in. They wouldn't have the manually locking or unlocking hubs yours may have these. If it does then that will help out. If you have full time four-wheel drive on yours still then that's something else that's going to try to hurt you. As far as fuel economy is concerned, there's an awful lot of factors though that can factor into fuel company. You got parasitic claws which I've just talked about a little bit. You've also got aerodynamics. You've got engine efficiency. You know those are your three main things there. If as far as like swapping to a four barrel intake and headers and a carburetor and looking to gain more efficiency. You can gain some more efficiency as far as fuel economy is concerned, but not a lot. A lot of that will depend on your driving style so when you're looking at different kinds of four barrel intakes, like I've said before in a lot of my videos, the cast iron spread board intake from the factory is pretty hard to beat. You can use a spreadboard style carburetor on that intake like a thermo quad or a Holly spreadboard carburetor or a quadrajet however, as far as intakes Edelbrock makes the performer air gap intake is really good choice of intakes can be a big determining factor on how an inch of performs. Not only as in making horsepower but also as in fuel economy as well has you seen on your stock 318 the two barrel that's on there is pretty small so going to any size portrayal is going to be a huge improvement in airflow. The big plus with your spreadboard carburetors is that you have very small primaries. Very large secondaries so if you run around on those primaries most of the time your fuel economy may actually be pretty decent. A couple of things I want to throw in there with fuel economy is you may want to think about using some sort of MSD style, ignition box, multi-spark, displacement or discharge if you do that. I have seen it people have significant gains in fuel economy. Furthermore, you may also want to think about using an wide band O2 meter with an oxygen sensor that is capable of working with that wide band O2 meter. Something you can observe right there in the driver's seat. I'm going to tell you your air fuel ratio while you're driving. This can be very helpful. As for headers with a 318, I would probably focus on headers with like a 1 and 5/8 primary and a 3-in collector long tube headers. I would not even think about short tube and a really good dual exhaust system. Probably at least a two and a half inch diameter pipe. Maybe 3 in something else you might want to consider is a clutch fan or an electric fan. These really help out because you're not turning that fan all the time. You're only turning it when you need it, which really is helpful now as far as horsepower, what kind of horsepower do I think you're going to be getting from these from these mods that you mentioned? Headers, carb and intake you're probably looking at about a on the low end. You're probably looking at about 30 horse gain on the high end. You could be looking to much as a 50 horse game. So I'd say chances are that your factory rating on your engine is about 150 somewhere in that neighborhood than additionally your after these notifications you're probably going to be looking at 200 horsepower now. Let me make something very clear optimizing your ignition timing before this and after these modifications can help out a lot with horsepower and fuel economy so I hope that helps. If you have any further questions feel free to ask
So I’ve got a single cab short bed 1999 dodge ram 1500 with the 5.2l 318, I bought it with a rv cam, short tube headers, 180 degree thermostat, installed on the truck already, what direction should I go now? I was wanting to upgrade to the 5.9l manifold but i wanna make sure it fits before i buy one
Hey, first of all, thank you very much for watching the video. Thank you for commenting. Really appreciate all of that. Appreciate your time. As for your 318 your best bet is to figure out what the lift and the duration and the lobes separation angle. All of those things of that cam that's in the engine right now. If I'm reading your comment correctly, you're saying that it came with an RV cam and short tube headers. Here's what I would do first if it was me. Go get yourself a dial indicator with a magnet base. Doesn't have to be anything really high tech or special or anything like that. One of your valve covers off of your engine. Doesn't matter which one. Whichever one is easier I guess. Put a dial indicator on one of the rocker arms on the valve side. Okay, so the rock arm has to be touching the actual valve stem? That's where you want your tile indicator position it so that it can read or measure the amount of downward travel the valve does. You can also do this by positioning the end of the dial indicator on the valve spring retainer. Now when you read that read the amount of lift or the amount of travel the valve has when you read that you may want to do this two or three times okay, so you'll need to like a ratchet and a socket. Probably one and a quarter inch socket and you'll need to borrow the engine over by hand. You don't want to do this by the starter okay? You want to do this by hand that's the wise way to do this and you can watch the needle in the dialing Decatur and see how far it goes. Why I'm saying this is you're taking what the previous owner is saying as you know that being the gospel okay I'm not saying the previous owner is a liar. Okay so I'm just saying the previous owners telling you this. You're believing it. You need to prove it. Okay, once you got that reading you'll need to make sure and check Cam specification charts from nearly everybody and see make sure that it is what he says. It is now. Here's the thing about an RV cam they can come in different lifts. Different duration amounts, different lobe separation angles. There can be a lot of variations there so not all RV cams are the same or are created equal okay. I mean think of it like a carburetor you know somebody says oh I've got a Holley carburetor or I've got a four barrel carburetor okay. What size do you have? If you don't know, you don't know. I mean because there's a lot of different sizes of carburetors so just something to think about. I would be checking that I would be checking my valve lift the duration. Love separation angle especially valve lift and duration. If you check valve, lift and then get yourself a factory service manual or even a service manual by Hanes or Chilton and look it up what the lift is. You can look that up in the manual and you can find out what the factory cam lift is and see if that lift is the same of what you already have. If it is, then most likely you don't have a. You don't have any kind of cam aftermarket cam in there now. I will do you. Do you another favor? When you get the reading contact me again? I'll be sure to look that up and tell you what it is okay what the factory lift will be. Furthermore, as far as short tube headers are concerned, i not a big fan. They don't really offer that much over a set of manifolds, long tube headers or going to improve everything torque and horsepower everywhere. Your next steps that I would consider if you're going to stay with the fuel injection on that engine and if you're going to mess around and change intakes I would not even consider the 360 Magnum beer barrel intake not much of a gain there. I would consider a single plane intake for the Magnum engines. I think professional products sells one right now. Probably sold to summit Racing. They allow you to use fuel injection however you will have to probably get some sort of adapter to adapt your two barrel throttle body to that intake now. Another thing you're going to run around against is that the factory computer is only going to allow so much. Okay so you can put a bigger cam in there. You can put better exhaust system headers. And another thing after the headers make sure you got a really good full dual exhaust system at least two and a half inch diameter pipe. If like I'm saying the factory computers only going to allow so much so you might want to think about going to some other style or type of computer. Maybe you could use possibly the Holley sniper computer, phone your truck and just have it piggyback and just controlling the ignition and fuel. Don't know if your truck is automatic or not, so if it's automatic you may have to retain the factory computer to control the transmission. Some didn't consider. Also, you may have to start looking at better injectors that can handle a larger amount of fuel. And another thing I was strongly recommend and I would do this probably before I do everything else. Get yourself a wide band 02 meter so that you can read the fuel mixture, fuel and air mixture going into the engine and see if it is lean or rich. If you don't you could wind up. You know possibly damaging the engine which is really going to ruin your day and this can also be a great really great tuning tool to help you gain a better understanding and a better knowledge of how to tune the engine and gain more power or drivability and more torque and maybe even a little bit better. Fuel economy which I know is not your gold necessarily but there you go all right. I hope that helps. I know that's kind of all over the place. I didn't really give this information out in a very you know numbers you know one two three four five but there is some ways to do it. Okay, thank you very much. Have any further questions feel free to ask
@@slantfish65sd understandable, rn I’m building. 2009 dodge charger police interceptor 5.7l I just got the truck as a winter truck but he claims there’s work done and he’s proved everything but that cam, I’ll definitely look into it I’ve just got a lot on my hands I just swapped the rear end on my charger but had to get a custom 4inch aluminum one peice drive shaft from cci bec I swapped a whole rear sub frame from a 2015 392 srt and the rear gear on that is 3.09 so im waiting on that drive shaft then she’ll be ready for a tune
First of all, thank you very much for watching the video. Johnny that cam you've picked is actually a really good all around type of cam it will work well in just about any kind of vehicle out there. My only other tip I'm going to suggest is that of course break the cam in like it's supposed to be broken in use a break-in lubricant. Also, I would strongly suggest to you unless you're married to that two barrel carb and intake. I would suggest getting rid of that and going with a four barrel of carb and intake. The Edelbrock air gap style intake works exceptionally well, even though the port, there may be a pork mismatch between the 318 heads and that intake and that brings up the also the cylinder heads. Try to run the best cylinder head you can to take advantage of that. Camshaft the better the better. The cylinder head the the more performance you're going to have and it's going to be so much easier to make power with it. I mean you can just run like a a 596 casting from the 70s which is a 360 Mopar head from the from the smog laden 70s and it will perform tremendously better. Larger valves, bigger ports. Just all around the better performer port that 596 even better. However, the 302 casting cylinder heads. They still have the smaller port but they have a nice chamber that's still a good choice but you can port those heads as well and gain even more performance out of them so try to run the best head that you can and of course use either a magnum exhaust manifold or a maybe some sort of headers that you like, preferably long tube. Thank you again
If it were mine, I would start with a good four barrel intake. Preferably the cast iron factory piece that was available with the spread bore carburetor pattern usually found on a lot of 360s into the '70s and up into the '80s. These will work exceptionally well on your 318. If you don't want to go cast iron then I would think about maybe Edelbrock air gap or one of the Chinese clones of that intake and for a carburetor I would probably go with something like no less than a 600 CFM on like then Edelbrock. If you're doing the Holly carb then probably go with 600 to maybe as much as 750 CFM same goes for the Edelbrock and get a way better. Exhaust system ditch the single exhaust system get a true dual exhaust system, probably in the two and a half inch range. No less than 2 and 1/4. That'd be the first couple of things I would do really wake that 3 and 10 up and help it out tremendously. Also third thing I do. I know you didn't call for it is a HEI ignition module swap so those are some things I would do. Oh and thank you so much for watching the video and your comments and further questions. Feel free to ask. God bless
Ignition timing is severely retarded. I'd say if you put a time and light on that engine, that's most likely going to be said that probably about 12° before top dead center. I've noticed a lot of them. You can bump up that timing to like 14°. Just 2° more timing and it gains power everywhere and actually starts using less fuel too. So check your ignition timing. Let me the first thing I do. If you don't have any ignition timing, light finds you know. Rent one borrow one buy one, but that is a really good thing to be doing. Oh and thank you very much for watching the video. Thank you very much for your comments. If there's anything else I can help with let me know
@@slantfish65sd yes sir !! Thank you very very much im exited ! I’ve been watching your videos for a couple of months now because I get a lot of general and very useful knowledge ! Once again thank you !
If you got the cash, Trick Flow heads. Always Trick Flow heads. They'll bring the compression way up, they have damn near 50% more port flow, and the combustion chamber design is about as perfect as perfect gets short of being a HEMI lol
Hey potato Joe want to say thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comment. You've probably not noticed but on this channel everything here is low buck. So when I am talking to people about doing stuff to their 318 or their 360 or any LA small block or Magnum small block Mopar the underlying issue is do it Holi very tight budget and because that's what I'm working with. I'm currently have two daughters living still living with me and they're in college and getting their career started so he has trick flow heads along with a whole lot of other hands out there. Will outflow most anything that I've got and I totally agree with you on that. But you know I'm trying to get on this channel. I'm trying to get people who are novices newbies to the small block mopar engines get them the information they need to make the performance upgrades they want to make to these engines and I think I even said in the video that you know that if you can afford the better stuff like in my trick flow piece then by all means do it. So I'll throwing off on you or your comment, but there is reasons why I do what I do. Guess it'd be easy to throw $1,000 or more at a cylinder head set of cylinder heads. But when you don't have that you work with what you got and that's what I do. Thank you again
@@slantfish65sd Thank you for taking the time to write a detailed response, I can genuinely appreciate that. I understand where you're coming from better now. I'm a newcomer to your channel, and a fellow MOPAR guy, so you might see my comments floating around from time to time. Best of luck with the channel! Keep on keepin' on man!
i have a 1978 318 engine in a 1970 vehicle .....what spark plugs do i put in that engine ...it tells me autolite 65 or 66 or champion 405 rn14yc .....whats the differance between autolite 65 and 66
The major difference in spark plug numbers is going to be the heat range. Generally speaking, as the numbers increase in most all of your autolite champion and ACDelco plugs as a number is increased numerically the same 66 over 65. That would mean that the 66 is a hotter plug. The 65 is a colder plug. Okay so it's just simply heat range as far as like what's a good plug for the 318 those auto lights should do. Just do really nicely champions. Also, very good. The champions you mentioned they will do very well, especially if we're talking stock ignition system. Even if it's a ignition system that isn't stock, they'll still do very very well now keep in mind I said generally that's not ironclad set in stone. Okay so good idea would be to Google and check or get in a spark plug catalog and do some checking as well
@@slantfish65sd i am running a pertronix ignition i have take. Out the points Right now i put the autolite 66 in it and it starts and runs good Just that the plugs got black fast Someone told me tgar its normal because i ran the engine on the choke and then shut it off I havent taken it out in the road yet to see if the plugs will clean themselves aftet a long highway drive Thanx
I need help with my 01 dodge ram with 5.2 magnum I wanna gain more power and don't know what to do I have cold air intake and about to replace plentum gasket what should I do with exaust and is there any other add ons like bigger throttle body or diffrent intake or something to that nature? Thank you
Hey Sean, just read your comment. I appreciate it very much. I also appreciate you watching the video taking your time to do that. I appreciate that very much too. Something you want to consider though on your truck basically is just making it easier for the engine to breathe in and exhale out. So as far as your exhaust system is concerned, i would probably go with a true dual exhaust system, not a cat-back system that ties in both the exhaust pipes into one pipe for just a little bit and then splits it off into duels just for looks. Make sure it is a true dual exhaust system where you have one pipe for each side of the engine. Okay make sure that you're running like probably a two and a half inch exhaust system. A lot of exhaust shops will try and tell you that. Oh no. You need to run a smaller pipe to maintain flow or to maintain torque. That's not really. There's no basis in that. There's no no truth to it. So yeah I would run at least a two and a half inch system and probably get away from the chambered mufflers like the flowmasters but because they can cut back the flow and cut down the flow on the exhaust system probably I would go with like a a straight through muffler and probably follow that up with some resonators later on in the system. Then also as far as intake manifolds are concerned. There's a lot of different options out there. Your truck sounds more like it's pretty close to stock, so I would probably focus on like a dual plane intake. You didn't state in your comments whether you're going with carburetor or your sticking with fuel injection. What's you know? And if you are sticking with fuel injection, are you sticking with the the factory style fuel injection or you going with something aftermarket? Like a you know Holly terminator x or something like that anyway I would. If you're going with carburetor then I would stick with a dual plane intake. If you're going with fuel injection I would probably stick with a single plane intake. There's just been a lot of issues with the aftermarket fuel injection systems like Holly Terminator x and the MSD atomic and so on and so forth that they do met much much better with a single plane intake than a dual plane. Doesn't mean they won't work with a dual plane. It just means that they generally do better with a single plane. So and there is different throttle bodies and they can make some differences. However, I would probably also direct you to using if you're going to use the beer barrel intake, then different throttle bodies can make a difference, but they can make an even bigger difference on like a single plane intake now as far as those intakes are concerned. There's Edelbrock has got one to fit the magnum heads. There's also and then it'll rock. Also has dual plane intakes. There's to fit the magnum heads Hughes engines out of California. They also have their Mopar specialists and they have an intake for the Magnum. There's also one company called power wind. I think that's the name of them. There's several of them. Several companies that are making intakes for the magnums right now. Most of them are dual planes. There's a few out. There's a few single planes though. Just need to really get on there on summit Racine or jags or Hughes engines and have a look see also, let me suggest one other thing that will help your engine out tremendously bigger. Camshaft that would help even with stock exhaust and the beer barrel intake. Especially when you pick the right cam too. So just something to think about. Okay, if there's anything else I can do to help you feel free to ask and have a great evening. God bless!
@slantfish65sd thank you so much this helped me out tremendously the 2nd gen has always been my dream truck its just the best looking truck ever made in my opinion and when my father in law passed away a couple years ago I ended up with it my plan is to have a nice stance possibly leveling kit and bigger tires but nothing crazy to where I can still drive it around and have something for when it snows. Now is there anything I should do as far as transmission? Like shift kit or upgrade tourque converter? I'm not a mechanic by no means but I've worked on lots of vehicles and understand how they operate but once someone starts talking about lift and lope and cam duration i get super lost im litterly writing everything down you tell me to get and doing it. I don't have alot of money so I'm gonna have to do a little at a time and I know from watching your videos you are the man I need to talk to about my truck so thank you again so much you don't know how much this helps me my truck has sat outside for 2 years because anyone I called or talked to never had a definite answer for me on what I should do you are the only person that's actually got me back motivated and ready to get this thing going so thank you so much
the early rocker shafts ,..(273) are superior with chrome hardened , two stage oiling , with banana grooves lower . the forged rocker platform delivers, more accurate , high speed , valve timing !
Yeah, I actually have some of those rocker assemblies for the 273s the they are also adjustable due to their solid lifter nature and they're pretty cool. They're pretty cool and you're correct, they do offer more accurate valve timing
That intake manifold you're referring to, you can find it on pickup trucks especially 1 ton d350 dually pickup trucks. Also fans especially the b350 also any cop cars? The cop cars came with that manifold and they had that manifold on the 360s and then there was some cop cars with 318 that also had that manifold then of course there's also just any rear-wheel drive. V8 Mopar anytime I go into a salvage yard I just look at most any of them that I know is going to be V8 rear-wheel drive and carbureted. So just look for any Dodge truck from or van or rear-wheel drive cars from Year model 88 and back and You should be able to find a manifold. Also Facebook marketplace. I've seen a few floating around on there and eBay
I've got a 84 Dodge d100 and all of a sudden it wants to bog down and die when it gets to third gear. Idles great also goes through first and second or good. Would you think that would have something to do with the carburetor possibly? Thanks for any advice.
First of all, thank you for very much for watching the video. I truly do appreciate it. As far as your issue with the engine bogging down whenever it gets into third gear there can be a couple of different things going on there. First, I would check and make sure that there is not a fuel system problem. There can be a restriction in the fuel line. Kind of uncommon I would also check to make sure that you don't have a leak in one of the fuel lines. Also make sure that your fuel filter is not plugged partially plugged to. Also make sure that you have a good working fuel pump that should still be the mechanical fuel pump on that 84 model. Also check your ignition timing and make sure you're vacuum advances actually working. If you your distributor on that truck doesn't have a vacuum advance, make sure that the timing actually advances as the engine is speeding up in RPMs. Best way to tell this, get yourself a timing light and then you can actually literally watch the ignition timing advancing or retarding as the engine speeds up or slows down check all of these things. If you're still experiencing the issue, there could be some something plugging or clogging the fuel pickup tube in the fuel tank. Let me know what happens. Thank you very much. God bless
318-3 should be the stronger Forged crankshaft. Of course different block (casing #) But the same, but I’d look at the mounts, seein it’s a truck block. But, dont mix up the parts in the rotating assemblies
First of all, thank you very much for watching the video. Really seriously appreciate it. As far as your comment, I do realize it was more of a comedic thing. I don't know where you're from or what your financial situations are like, but mine are of the nature that my financial situation is basically like anything that's $1,000 like that. Then I can't make payments on. You can pretty much forget it. It ain't going to happen and just your standard 5.7 l v8s hemi. They're running about 12 to 1500. Sometimes 1800 for a used good used replacement engine, so that doesn't look very promising to me. Again, I do realize you're comment was comedic in nature and not a jab at what I was trying to do. However, let's do realize that I don't care what kind of V8 you're talking about. What kind of engine you're talking about if you give it a cylinder head? That isn't all that good is restrictive and is basically made just for low-end torque and then also pistons that are low compression and then also very small. Camshaft lift and duration numbers with very little overlap and then also restrictive intake manifold with a restrictive tiny carburetor and then restrictive exhaust manifolds. Yeah that engine ain't going to make a lot of power and the same holes true for a 318. But if you were to do all of that too, like a 392 heavy V8. Yeah, it'd be a slug too to be a dog or a slug or whatever you want to call it. It wouldn't get out of its own way. So bye if you rectile all those items. Guess what you got to engine that will get up and go now. I know a lot of people with much rather go and have a engine built for them or they'd rather have an engine they going by and just put it in something because they don't want to build an engine and that's cool too. But that's not me. I like building engines. I love it! I love taking an engine that has no chance of making any power and all of a sudden it's making power. It's making really really good power. Okay so again thank you for watching. That's just my rant and not a rant that is mean or vindictive and then addressed to you at in a mean or vindictive way. So have a good day and God bless
Hi, I know you have a million comments on this that are probably getting your attention but I have a 1991 dodge ram w150 with a 318 and I’m about to do my first rebuild on it just to keep it fresh it’s got 158k OG miles paired with the 4sp manual with the granny gear. It was used as a mountain/log truck by my grandfather and he’s passed it down to me so I want to do an overhaul even tho the truck runs flawlessly currently. But is there any chance I’d be able to get some sort of contact info from you so I could get your help with the rebuild? I’m nervous about it and just want the truck to last my family a while
Would you happen to have the serial or casting number on that 360 4bbl intake manifold. Please I’m in need of one. Or would you like to sell one? Thanks
Hey Alfredo, unfortunately no, I can't sell you one of my cast iron intake manifolds. However, I will give you the casting number two of them. There's really nothing special about them. The casting number is 417-3915 2. Okay this one in particular. I'm giving you the cash number for it was made in 1982. So really any of the 360 or the 318 4-wheel intake manifolds. They're all pretty much the same. Even the port windows. They didn't change the the intake manifold port window just for the three team. They left it exactly the same when the 318 got a four barrel. So anyway, I hope that helps. If there's any other questions I can help you with let me know. Thank you very much and God bless!
@@slantfish65sd really really appreciate you taking the time to reply. Thanks so much for the information. learned something new today!! Cheers 🍻 thanks again.
First of all, thank you for watching the video. I really do seriously appreciate it. As far as bolting a different intake on your 318 and putting a carburetor on it, that is very very doable. 600 CFM carb weather Edelbrock demon Holly you name it. Whatever you like would be pretty darn good. The factory original fuel pump can be used. The one that's in the tank for the fuel injection that can be used. You're just going to have to use a fuel pressure regulator in conjunction with a return line to the tank. Now that truck probably already has a return line. Most of your fuel injection systems out there from that time frame would have had a return line so that's what I would do. I would just utilize the the intake fuel pump and use the supply lines that are already there plus the return line that's already there. Plumb them up to a fuel pressure regulator. Put the rent set the regulator like maybe 6 psi. Maybe 7:00 and maybe even as low as five PSI. And that should be plenty good enough. The reason why you might find it difficult to use a mechanical fuel pump is that some of those timing covers did not have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump or they were blocked off and it may not have the fuel pump cam on the end of the camshaft so that's another. That's just something you have to work around you will also need you some sort of ignition system. You can use the Mopar performance electronic ignition per tronics. That's another one. MSD they're they're very good. I just remembered. There's also the Mopar electronic distributor used in conjunction with a GM HEI ignition module though. I've heard a lot of great stuff about those as well. I would also just retain the factory computer to allow it to run the gauges and the dash and that would be that. Oh, if you still have the factory catalytic converter system on the truck, you're probably going to have to ditch that the I think those trucks came with as many as three catalytic converters don't. Although don't quote me on that so I hope all of this helps. Also putting a aluminum in four barrel intake and a four barrel of your choice on there. Will definitely wake up at 3:18 and it will work great
@@slantfish65sd thanks, that really is a big help! The cadillacs are definitely coming off cause I ordered some long tube headers off Ebay a while back. Building up some more parts right now and hopefully after this winters over I'll spend a long weekend doing upgrades so I may ask some more questions about it down the road lol! I'm 49 and always had GM cars so just started trying to tinker with mopars. Fell in love with this d100! Runs better than any GM I've ever had lol! Well thanks again and been watching a bunch of your videos. Great content 👍
750cfm carb. Aluminum intake port matched. Port the heads. Headers. And a cam between .450 and .480 lift. Edit:when I say port matched I don't mean openedup to gasket size. And also not the first few inches. Match it to the correct port size and open the entire intake runner to a minimum of that size.
Three items in this video can help you get better fuel mileage out of your 318 if you will pay attention to your ignition system and your the air coming into the engine and the fuel system and also the exhaust system the less restrictions you have in the exhaust system. The and the smoother it is so like say if you have like if you say right now you have a single exhaust system with you know a lot of convoluted turns and 90° turns and things like that it's going to be somewhat restrictive you put a dual exhaust system on there where you got. You know a nice good size pipe for both sides then plus a maybe a 2 1/4 or 2 and 1/2-in pipe. You'll have a really good flowing system and you'll get more efficient. It will be more efficient ignition system. If you can improve the ignition system by having a hotter more complete spark, you'll improve that for efficiency as well by simply having maybe a you could try an MSD system or an MSD box triggered by the you know whatever distributor you've got weather points are electronic, then there's then there's also you can. Like you know, get better plug wires open up the plug gap. You can also have a distributor cap and rotor button with the brass contacts. Those actually help a little bit. Also, as far as like you know as far as like the fuel system is concerned, you know maybe you're not going to a four barrel. If you do you know. Just make sure that you got a good supply of fuel there and it's clean and your you got good pressure. Something like say 6 lb 7 lb. Something like that no more than 7 lb. Make sure that carburetors clean and doesn't have any vacuum leaks as far as the rest of the intake system, the air getting into the carburetor make sure there's no restrictions there. Make sure it is cool. Clean air so you know good clean air filter. If you are going to stick to a paper air filter just make sure it's clean. It doesn't really matter what brand it is. If you're going to go with a cotton gauze filter, something like a Canon that's actually really helpful. They do a really great job. I have seen games sometimes with a k&n filter. Also, make sure that your air coming to your air intake is your error. Cleaner assembly is from the outside of the engine compartment, not the inside. Yeah the open element air filters are cool looking but they don't really help performance that much. Sounds like they do but they don't. Oh one other thing on the exhaust system. I can't really tell you what kind of muffler you want or that you're going to get. Just make sure it's something that's free or flowing than say a turbo muffler. The turbo style mufflers are they're not that great. Try to avoid those if you can. Hope that helps. Thank you for watching
First of all, I'd like to thank you for watching the video and really appreciate it. Also very good question. As far as like favorite long tube headers that depends on the vehicle they're going in. If we're talking 60 to 66 early A body mopar's there's not really any real good ones out there. TTI makes some but they're pretty expensive. Just about everybody's is pretty expensive for the early a bodies. I think hedman also makes some fender well headers they're they're. Also, you know, pretty good, but they're also very expensive. My recommendation to you if you're looking for like a recommendation for a header go around. Be talking to people like it, car shows or drag races or cars and coffee events. Cruise ends. Find the people that have any small block mopar's and be talking to them. What long tube header works best in their particular chassis? Especially if say their particular car is very similar to yours or identical to yours. If you have like you know a b-body Mopar from the '60s and on up into the '70s again, TTI is pretty good. All of TTI stuff is going to be kind of expensive though you know, but it's kind of one of those deals. Headers are kind of one of those things you get what you pay for. If you buy a cheap set of headers, you're going to get a cheap set of headers That's not going to last very long and they're going to leak and they're going to cost you all kinds of headaches and aggravation More expensive headers. You know they're going to last longer. They're going to be a better quality that sort of thing. Generally some things to look for as far as headers are concerned is the flange that bolts to the head. If that's nice and thick that's going to be a header. That's probably going to leak a hell of a lot less and other thing is don't cheap out on gaskets get a really really really good high quality header gasket. You're going to be miles ahead. Trust me, hedman also makes a really good header for like the trucks and some of the other mopar's as well. Generally when you're talking about mopar's and headers is generally not always a good thing because a lot of mopar's you know like has the longitudinal or I'm sorry I'm sorry. I'm sorry parallel parallel torsion bars that run parallel with the frame rails. Those can cause some issues when you got that going on. It's like oh my God. So a lot of the header manufacturers just didn't take a lot of that into consideration. And so you have headers that don't fit very well. And you're kind of poor quality. So I guess my my overall recommendation is probably going to be TTI
I got some magnum exhaust manifolds for my 1983 Ramcharger 318, but I’m noticing on the driver side the shifter linkage gets in the way. Any suggestions on how to clear it?
I'm assuming you're talking about the shifter linkage on the column shifter for an automatic transmission on this ramcharger really about the only way I know to get around all of that is to probably set up a aftermarket type floor shifter for your transmission. Something like a b&m ratchet shifter or Hurst shifter. You know the operates with a cable, however, do keep in mind. Please do keep the cable away from any significant heat sources you know like exhaust any part of the exhaust system. But one great thing about the cables are that you can wrap them in heat insulating material that will insulate the cable and keep it from getting burned and damaged. The as far as like trying to retain the column shifter and do this, you're going to have an uphill battle because one you're mixing in a shifter that wasn't necessarily supposed to be used with those exhaust manifolds but also two. Please do keep in mind that these exhaust manifolds were used on the 92 and '93 Dodge ramchargers so you might want to go and find one of them and see what they did to keep the the linkage clear of the exhaust system. Also, if you can send me pictures of your particular setup your particular ramcharger that would be very helpful. I could comment and I could tell you what would be a good alternative other than using a floor shifter if you want to retain the column shifter. Also, be sure that your engine mounts or transmission mount hasn't shifted moved, got damaged in some way or even the mounting brackets haven't gotten bent like possibly in an accident or something like that. Okay, I hope this helps you again. I extend my apologies out to you for not getting back to you sooner, but if you do have the time, please send me some pictures of your your ram charger so I can see what your problem is and maybe I can comment and tell you more about what you need to do. Thank you very much. Have a great day. God bless and merry Christmas!
Unfortunately I don't know for sure I have an 89 Chrysler Fifth Avenue and I am pretty sure those magnum manifolds will work but I will be looking at my fifth avenue and taking measurements and reporting back to you it
Any of the Magnum manifolds from 1992 to 2002 318 and 360 5.2 and 5.9 l will bolt on and work providing there is space in whatever chassis that engine is in The one thing you need to look out for though is if you can get the 92 to 93 Magnum exhaust manifolds. They usually flow a little bit better because they're a little bit larger but any of the Magnum manifolds are better than the stock manifolds. The stock LA manifolds that is however, they won't outflow long tube headers but they are considerably better than the stock LA manifolds
Hey Mark, first of all, thank you very much for watching the video. Seriously appreciate it and my apologies for not getting back to you sooner. The question you have about bolting up a 5.2 318 to a existing transmission in an '04 Dodge truck. The bellhousing patterns are very very similar. As a matter of fact there is only one bolt hole that is different. All the rest of them line up. However, pay attention and be careful when you do this because your of your dowel pins in the block in that face where it needs the transmission bell housing. There is dowel pins that line the transmission bell housing to the block. Make sure they do fit. Do not force them because you will crack the transmission case. It's only aluminum. It's just cast aluminum. Furthermore, that one bolt hole that won't line up. It's only off by like a half an inch so you can probably modify the whole in the bell housing so you know. Basically just get like a die grinder and some sort of you know a carbide bit and then start working on it. You can even use a drill with a carbide bit and do that again, thank you very much for watching and hope that helps you. Any further questions feel free to ask
Yes my 318 did you see in the video that I'm referencing is stock? That particular engine is an 86 or 87 model 318 LA non-magnum engine so that means it has the 302 casting number cylinder heads? It has the roller lifter camshaft, but that also means that the heads are somewhat restrictive in comparison to a magnum and I'm being generous with that term somewhat. The intake on it is just your typical 2 barrel carburetor cast iron intake manifold that the 318s had at that time frame. Very similar to the intakes you would see on most any three team for a very long time. That particular engine that I'm referencing is the $50 318. If you watch some other videos, I reference it on several occasions and even show some videos of it too. But I want to say thank you very much for watching the video. Thank you very much for your comments and have a great day God bless
Yes that particular engine is stock. I don't know why but my phone put a? Behind the word stock anyway that particular engine came out of like a passenger car like an 86 or 87. It has the passenger car oil pan and I'm assuming it probably came from like a Chrysler 5th avenue Dodge diplomat or Plymouth Grand fury from that time frame I bought the engine literally for 50 bucks and it was in a buddy of mine's garage for a number of years. He'd forgotten how long it been there so it's been pretty fantastic really. But yes, it is very much stock
Would you know how to tune an EFI carb for better mpg cause I currently get around 13 mpg and I want to increase it. The carb has downward jets and pretty much all electrical and I did lower the RPM a bit so it's not over 1k during idlein park or neutral
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This is less of a tutorial and more of an old school guy sharing his experience. Subscribed with the first video I watched. Time to go playlist trolling after this video.
Just want to take this opportunity to say thank you so much for watching the video and thank you for your subscribe and your comment and I really appreciate it. Really helps out the channel I try to share my experiences and and share what I know and what I've learned from working on vehicles and from being around them for so long that for as long as I have it's been some time but I really dislike it. When people don't share information that they have or knowledge that they have, they want to take it with them. I don't understand that it doesn't make any sense. It's like they're gatekeeping the car hobby and that's stupid. Makes no sense at all so I really appreciate you for subscribing and watching and sharing
@@slantfish65sd I have been fixing my own vehicles, as well as those of family and friends for 20+ years. But I'm new to Mopar, specifically the 318. I welcomed your knowledge!
I fell
Asleep what happened???
I made 300 horsepower out of a 318 using a two barrel intake that came from a 1965 273 casting number 246 3252 I use the Holley 500 2 barrel list number 4412-6 I used a comp cams high energy cam a 454 lift I used a set of ProForm 15 roller rockers and the heads are 318 police style heads casting number 3302 this 318 sits under the hood of my 75 valiant makes 300 horsepower 330 foot pounds of torque and all with a two barrel the two barrel intake I had a gasket and the intake runners smooth out and it flows like a performer intake so that's my formula for a 300 horsepower 318 holla if you hear me
Thats odd, the 318 made 340ft/lbs from factory stock.
@@trickster8635
Depends, many only made 265
HP vs Torque is a balance. If you gain in one, you will loose on the other hand. The main thing is to try to keep the Torque curve steady all the way till HP take over.
@dadalebreton184 exactly don't want your engine to go before your diff or drive train
LOL,,,I really doubt it and bet your claimed numbers come from a seat of pants dyno vs reality.
Like this Video & Great information. I have built two 318's with 340 heads in the 1980's. Both times I was surprised how well & Fast they ran. Do not under estimate how well a 318 can run.
Sorry for not responding sooner. Also, I would like to express that I really appreciate you watching the video and the reason for my comments. Here is that yes the 318 is just as capable of running really well. Is most any other small block out there? And for a long time everybody thought of them is you know economy engines and that they're cheap and all of this. And honestly the there's a lot of the engine that is way way stronger than any kind of economy, engine or anything like that. In general a lot of 318s are just over built for durability which makes them ideal for like you know building them up for some sort of high performance use
@@slantfish65sdGreat video. I have a 1984 w100 dodge pickup with a 318 engine. I just ordered long tube headers for it from summit racing. I’m planning on going dual exhaust deleting the catalytic converter, resonator and muffler, going straight pipe.
I don't see how! 340 heads on a 318 will lower the compression! Maybe by putting a supercharger on it, it will work.
@@dpierson489 hey, thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comments. As for lowering the compression ratio on the 318 by using a 340 head, you are right, it will do that, but it will increase performance quite a bit because you're gaining so much in airflow. The airflow that you're gaining through those heads is going to seriously outweigh the lost in compression and you can gain some of that back by going to the thinner head gasket also too. If you're so inclined, you can go and open up the engine and go with pistons that have a higher compression distance. This will get that compression back to where it was before but even with hell, even with smog 360 heads from the mid 70s 318 will definitely breathe better and gain more power. Even though they are losing some compression, they still will make better power with those heads because they will flow more air simple as that stop focusing so much on compression. Okay, it's it's important but it's not the only key element focus on air flow as well
I put a Holly Street demon curb and a high flow intake manifold and headers on my 318 and it's still struggles to spend the tires, any advice on how to make a little more power ?
Carter BBD 2bbl. Love it. I used to get 20mpg with one of those on my 73 318 Charger.
cant wait to try some of this on my new 1987 ram van i got recently picked up. its a crusty old van but i think its got potential! no mopar left behind!
Great video. These la engines are kinda forgot in today's world magnums being the dinosaur but still a hard run for a ls engine. My 318 is built and it's mean. Light weight and high output. Love the la series
currently running a 318 magnum in my 65 Valiant. that motor with how light the car is just makes that thing fly! its a sleeper i Guess you could say
Those Magnum Manifolds on the V6 and V8 from 92-93 have a larger 2 1/8 collector vs the 94+ 1 7/8. The 92/93 are the best flowing stock manifolds for the Small block Mopars.
Yes I completely agree I've known about them since 93 and they are a little bit better than the 94 and later exhaust manifolds however both of those are way better the older log style manifolds used on the earlier LA small blocks also however finding the early Magnum manifolds maybe a bit difficult
Is there a port mismatch? (I know, but i think this matters)
Heard thru the reliable internet, mag exh ports set higher
230 BHP/150 Net
I put the Edelbrock Performer Package on my 318 with true 2.25 dual exhaust & Thrust Turbo mufflers. Doubled the power and sounded soooooooo good!
Awesome! Sounds like you're on the right track. Want to say thank you so much for watching the video and thank you so much for your comments. I really appreciate it and also I just want to take this opportunity to tell you. Have a great Thanksgiving!
On malaise-era LA engines, when you take the front off and put the requisite double-row chain and gear set, get a 4 degree offset woodruff key for the camshaft gear from a speed shop and install to advance the cam 4 degrees. This worked well on the regular LAs, or the LA premium municipal police/fleet cars that I worked on back in the late 70s, and the 80s.
I've heard of this before but thank you for reminding me. And also thank you for watching the video and think of your comments and they appreciate it. Have yourself a great day. If you have any further questions feel free to ask. God bless
Spot on. Especially the part of using an o2 sensor gauge for tuning. I really want to install 1. My dad and I set up my 318 charger when I was a kid. Long tube hooked headers, 2.5 dual pipes, wiend medium rise intake, edelbrock 600, stock cam. A cam and an ignition system is all that's left to do.
Building a 318 and looking for all the information I can get. Thanks for laying it out.
I just picked up a complete running 318 for 50 bucks, gonna do a mild build for my 1966 a100
Its goot to know about these for my power wagon, i replaced the carb from a 4 barrel holley to a 600CFM 4 barrel edelbrock, bought it with manifolds (unknown) and cherry bombs on it
the 318 magnum is a insanely cheap engine for performance. you need performance heads, camshaft, air intake, and exhaust headers. all of the sudden you have a beast of a naturally aspirated engine.
Yes, the magnum 5.2 318 is really inexpensive and even better is that it's very widely available. Made thousands and thousands and thousands of them. And it responds well to modifications and improvements and even better than that is rock solid, durable, well engineered and people still give it a lot of shade. Throw a lot of shade at its way and say it's a junk and economy engine and not worth the trouble and how incredibly wrong they are. Anyway, thank you for watching the video. Any further questions feel free to ask
the 318 is a LA engine brother to a 273,340 , 360 , a 5.2 & 5.9 respectively. you can bolt on a four-barrel dual exhaust. heads , the 318 is the basic start above the 273 most parts are interchangeable, a real underappreciated work horse. I loved everyone I owned up to the Magnums.
An LA *
I’ve loved every one that I have owned*
@@8092DJ yes different from the big block I think a B block 318 Poly head the LA family was a small block light engine started with the 273 up to the 360 one of Chryslers killer engine family's except for the 361 I had 318s in all my Plymouths loved them dearly
Had a roller 318 (323) hi compression oval track mtr for my dodge sportsman was @580hp one a few races with it against 355 & 383 chevies. Got protested a lot. Fun times!
Man thankyou i have an 84 d150 and its gonna be my first build ever it has a 318, with a old SINGLE barrel carb at the moment but ill be changing that soon!
First of all, I'd like to say thank you very much Max for watching the videos and if you want more information about how to modify your 318 then just follow along as I continue work on the $50 318 and if you have any other further questions let me know
One thing about sizing a carb. If you go to a large carb, you can jet it down, however, the larger the throat, the slower air flows across your spray nozzles. You want to be pulling that air fast across those nozzles, to suck gas from the carb bowls.
Your logic does make sense and I don't disagree with you. However, I have a friend right now that has a 232 cubic inch slant 6. That's a 225. That's bored. 60 over and it has a 750 CFM Holley dual line double pumper carb on it and he races that and he's won quite a few races with that set up and as you might have imagined it's nowhere near stock now on a stock engine. Yeah that probably wouldn't even come close to working. The throttle response would be really sluggish lazy but also too think about this for just a minute. In the mid '80s Chrysler Mopar was building 318 engines to be used in police cars, the Plymouth Grand fury and the Dodge diplomat. These cars had an 850 CFM Carter thermalquad that was driving around like a normal car and then later they switched over to a similar size GM Rochester quadrajet carburetor so again I'm not necessarily arguing with you. However, there's some evidence here that it says otherwise and Chrysler's engineers in the past were some of the best around
I've had my 85 d150 with a 318 and 4 speed transmission with 4x4 for a couple years now and this is the first actually informative video I've found for my truck,thank you for the ideas and info, just subscribed wondering if you could possibly make another video on tuning the carb it has a sputter and I can't seem to figure out why. Loved the video though!!
Yes, I will make the video about your particular situation with your 318. Thank you for watching
You mean w150
I've done a lot of Fords and Chevy's, but just got my 1st Mopar to dive into. Glad I came across your channel on this stuff and hit that button up there to see more.
Just found your channel. The 89W150 with TBI360 is my profile pic I had bought stock from the original owner back in 2002. I eventually swapped in D60's and cross over steering. Rolled on 38" Swamper SSR's. Currently I'm stripping the good parts off of it. I bought it's stock 89W150 clone, same color, but the TBI 318. Glad you giving me some information. I'm going to ditch the TBI and go with a throttle body fuel injection from Edelbrock possibly. Iv'e got the green Haynes manual of course...lol
Hey, first of all, thank you very much for watching. Thank you for your comments. Sound like you got some pretty good plans there. As for the Hanes manual, i'd rather have that than nothing at all. Let me know how everything works out for you. If you need any more information, I'll be glad to help
Yeah they throttle body fuel injected LA small blocks were okay for their intended purpose but when you want more power and you want more torque than you're going to have to go with aftermarket fuel injection or a carburetor. Especially you'll have to do that. If you want to start making changes like different camshafts or cylinder heads that flow more air throttle body injection systems. They can't really handle any real significant changes. They can't even really handle a set of long tube headers
I bought a 318 cop motor by accident. I didn't know what it was, I bought it because it had a stock Quadrajet. I pulled the timing cover and it had a double roller timing set in it. I scratched my head and checked the casting numbers of the heads. They were proprietary, cop heads. They had large ports with 2.02 intakes and 1.60 exhausts. I checked the cam numbers and it had a 340 6 Pack cam. It was, basicly a 340 6 Pak in a 318 block. No wonder they were fast! A good way to get a hot 318 is to find a cop motor.
Thank you very much for your comments and also thank you very much for watching the video. Really appreciate it as you've probably seen in the video, this video is mainly dealing with the mountains of 318 engines that aren't like yours that are the regular run of the mail. Two barrel variety that were in everything. But yes, I totally agree with you. Those cop car engines really awesome which just goes to prove the whole entire point of what I was talking about in the video about improving all the systems on the 318 like your induction system, your exhaust system, and all of a sudden you've got an engine that's way more efficient and makes more power. And really all of that stuff really wakes that engine up
Also if I can I would love to get my hands on a cop car engine but they were produced 30 years ago so it mean it's possible anything's possible but I'll keep looking
Thanks for the valuable info on these old 318's, I've the old family van I've been sprucing up and rebuilding, nothing crazy but I have fun sometimes. For a real kick that got me searching for things I can do check out the japanese Dajiban racing circut's.
Yes, I have seen these Dajiban Vans and they're very cool. There is a TH-cam channel called donut Media. They did a special about them. And like I said really cool really awesome and thank you very much for your wonderful comment and thank you very much for your time watching the video and I will check out more of the Dajibans
This is a great video for the average guy. I have an 02 dodge with a 360 magnum. Learned a few things and plan on doing long tube headers on it here soon. The current has a magnaflo knockoff that's turned out right before the right rear tire. Get a lot of compliments on the sound it makes and it sounds much faster than it actually is.
Sounds like you're on the right track. Yeah, long tube headers is a excellent wave building performance everywhere and they increase horsepower and torque everywhere all over the rpm range also, thank you for watching the video and thank you for your comments. Have a great day! Have any further questions feel free to ask
Awesome video. Ive had my Grandmas 77 fury with a 318 for 22 years. Done carb, intake and exhaust but defintely live more ideas. Thanks!
Don't forget the mopar bible.
Great information 😊
1) Stroker kit
2) 10.8 to one CR
3) Trick Flow Heads
4) Edlebrock Performer RPM intake [not air gap]
5) A.E.D. vacuum secondary down leg Carb [870cfm]
6) Performance Distributors' DUI HEI-style distributor + Ignition Solution’s Plasma Booster.
7) Headers TTI
8) Cam with 108 LCA. Hardened with nitriding process. [adv 4 degrees on install].
9) High flow oil pump [not high pressure].
10) Driven GP1 synthetic Blend 20w- 50
11) 318/390 = 454hp / 497 ft lbs TQ (note: street car)
First of all, thank you very much for your comments and watching the video. I really appreciate it. You have excellent suggestions and ideas over this video and this entire channel really is low. Buck and I don't know about you but every stroker kit I've ever checked on was extremely ridiculously overpriced so this video was produced and the idea behind it was to get more performance out of the 318 while not spending a vast king's ransom of money now. However, 318 put together with all of the gap. It's going to be awesome. No doubt about it. But like I said before I try to do things on the on the less expensive side and get the most performance I can out of everything. Thank you again
Keep pushing out the mopar videos 🙏 appreciate you a bunch for this great info 🤝
I got a 77 dodge d100 with a 318 and a 3 on the tree. It’ll smoke the tires all the way through 1st and it’ll screech in between 1st and 2nd. The 318 is a fabulous engine. I’m able to do all that with the stock carter 2 barrel and a “custom” exhaust
First of all, I want to say thank you very much for watching the video. Really appreciate it and thank you for your comment. Something to remember is that when an engine is geared properly aka the gears in the rear axle when they're accurately matched to the engines output that engine can seem like it's way more powerful than you ever would have thought. So if you have lower gears like say 411 or 373 or 390 or something like that that 318 probably seems very very stout and gives that 318 excellent acceleration off the line. However, downside is that they will top out in RPMs sooner so you're top end. Your top end speed isn't all that much. But if you have higher years like say 323 -290 276 those sort of gear ratios. Then they're not going to have real good acceleration off the line. But they're going to have a really great top end. Those are commonly referred to as airplane gears
Great information, thanks. I just picked up a Ram Charger with 318 for $150 cam trade. I will use your tips to make improvements as I complete the restoration on "Chuck Norris". I'm looking forward to building up my first Mopar!
I think you should change the name to “Truck Norris”
318 loves a compression increase and long tubes.
Add a comp xe268h and she wakes right up
I have always heard that the Keith Black pistons make a huge difference by bringing it up to a true zero deck height vs sitting slightly below like the stock pistons do.
With exh manifolds. The 1992 to 1993 360 exh manifolds found on 3/4ton trucks had a 2.5 outlet instead of the 2.25.
Correct however I have seen the 2.5 outlet on the 318 and some half ton trucks
The sound he’s talking about is the humming sound it makes everything inside your car vibrate.
Thank you
Porting and polishing my heads rn but going with a aluminum 4 barrel intake.
@@rustypliers74 Rusty pliers I like the name. Let me help you out here just a little bit. When you are picking out an aluminum intake please do be very careful. Not all aluminum intakes are created equal. Some are considerably better than others and some are just downright awful. Also, when you are porting your heads and polishing them, be careful about polishing the intake runner the intake Port because if you make it too smooth then the fuel when it's traveling through that intake Port will not stay in suspension. It may create puddles. The reason is the reason for that is this. You need to have some roughness in the intake Port and that will create a tumbling effect of the air. When it goes through that Port it wants to tumble and when it tumbles it keeps that fuel molecules in suspension in the air. That's traveling through that port. Now the exhaust ports. On the other hand that's different. Yes you do want to polish them. The reason for that is that if they are smooth they will flow better and they usually have a much greater effect. The smoothness really doesn't help the flow that much but what it does do is it creates less of a structure for the exhaust gases, the exhaust particles in the gas to attach themselves to so the exhaust Port will stay basically cleaner and you won't have buildup in the exhaust port
@@slantfish65sd can I give you my email to send you pictures, I don’t want to mess this up.
First off, Randy Brzezinski has documented that a two into one exhaust system increases torque and horsepower... think of a Kerker header on a motorcycle. Also, no mention of muffler cfm? Check the cfm listed by the manufacturer. The best intake manifold for the 318 is from Weiand, by far.
Well, thank you very much for watching this video and thank you very much for commenting and I would like to also say thank you very much because you've given me a great idea for a video so I'll be seeing you
Bought a weind intake years ago for my 70 charger with the 318. Never put it on yet. But glad someone says its good.
My black single cab dodge dakota R/T has 3 inch exhaust, mopar mid length hedders, TB spacer, ac delete along with fan clutch, k&n air intake kit. Beefed trans with shift kit. An beefier stall. Let's just say I've give lightnings a hard run for their money.
Sounds great The thing a lot of older drag racers know is it's not wise to pick on a Mopar. They can defend ourselves very very well
No doubt. An fingers crossed I grab this turbo kit already fabbed up off an 01 R/T. Lightnings will be in the rearview for days. Lol
Here's one for you! I drive a 89 d100 with a 318 and my muffler fell completely off and it's still so quiet you can barely hear it run! Blows me away lol!
I saw 425ish out of a 318. Of course there, what is aftermarket internal upgrades and heads, but still 318 cid
Thank you so much for watching the video and thank you for your comment. As to your comment, yes, the 318 is an extremely capable engine. I think some people are really starting to realize just how good they can be now. Of course there are limits to everything and there's going to be. You know some people will break a few blocks and break a few crankshafts and that sort of thing and there's going to be some limits but they are tremendously capable engines like a lot of other Mopar agents. Whatever reason, probably because and this is. This is probably because the three teams never really put into any accounts are performance application so they don't think of the 318 as being a performance engine. Some people either think that the 360 can't be built as a performance engine and at the 340 is the only way to go and it's no that's hogwash so anyway, yeah I completely agree with you. 318 is a great engine. You have any further questions feel free to ask
3:00 Thing 5
8:06 Thing 4
13:39 Thing 3
20:56 Thing 2
24:37 Thing 1
28:10 Bonus thing
rebuilding my 318 total billet and forded race build hopefully going to make 500 to 600 horse. Full drag build but i’m just putting it in my truck and going to drive it like a baby.
If you manage to build a 318 up to anywhere even remotely close to 600hp without supercharging (with all of those associated troublesome issues) and then try to drive it on the street you aren't gonna like its manners. The woes and fails of too many performance fans revolve around overbuilding something they wanna drive on the street. This is why you see so many cars like this that end up for sale after the owner has spent a few days trying to row the thing through traffic. An honest 400hp from a 318 is the best you can reasonably expect and that's gonna be marginal if you want to actually enjoy driving it like a cruiser.
the 318 really shines , in a 3000lbs. car .
a truck version of the teen ,
is best built with an emphasis on torque
Yup, callin BS.
Thanks for the great info. I have a 74 ramcharger I am hoping to get back on the road soon. . Now if only I could find more mopar used parts locally that you mentioned swapping on my 318.
First of all, thank you for watching the video. Really seriously appreciate it. If you can't find anything local, then Facebook marketplace, eBay, craigslist or go to maybe one of your local drag strips. Find somebody racing a Mopar there. Strike up a chat with him. I'm a member of several groups home Mopar groups on Facebook, I know Facebook can be a pain in the butt. Sometimes it pays off
Got 5 things to do to a 360 for more performance on the cheap. Thanks
I tried to get this out to all the Dodge people with stock ignition systems, the Napa Mo 3000 rotor is a performance will give more power to the plugs because the rotor Gap is too big you notice the spark goes up not across to the contact.
Thank you for that bit of information. I was unaware of that Napa part number. I will definitely be looking into that and checking that out. Also, I want to say thank you for watching the video and thank you for your comment and you are right, there are some rotor buttons that don't fit correctly. I've had trouble with that, especially a lot of the Chinese made stuff. Can be very aggravating again, thank you
Thank you so much! finally someone who is straight and to the point!
Mopar Performance engine book says the factory Thermoquad intake makes more power than the square bore AVS intake, even with a square bore carb on a spread bore adapter.
You are correct sir. I read that same bit of text myself. Yes, the cast iron thermal quad intake spreadboard intake is exceptional. It is a very well made piece That's why I mentioned it in the video but it's a. It's an excellent piece and I'm glad you appreciate the video. Thank you for watching
Built street 318 la for 1500eur, it is possible to build in budget but had headers and carb already so that helped.. Get cam kit+intake, port heads and deck the block and you should see results
Hello Max folio, thank you very much for your wonderful comment and thank you so much for watching the video. Yes, I was highlighting all of those elements in the video of you know. Improve all of these elements you know. Intake carburation exhaust cylinder heads compression improve all of those things and you can see a tremendous gain and performance. The reality is is that the 318s when they came out of the factory that a lot of them were built with very low compression head flow. That was not very good in taking carburetors that were and exhaust manifolds that were not really contributing to that engine's capabilities. But you are right, and I thank you so have yourself a great day. If you have any further questions feel free to ask. God bless and just as a further question, I notice you said 1500 EUR in your comment. Are you talking about euros? Is this engine in some part of the European continent? If so, let me know okay, just be kind of a fun and interesting fact. Would love to see pictures of whatever it is you're working on okay. Again, thank you very much
@@slantfish65sd yes your video was on point for starting out what to upgrade for 318, cam swap and decking the block to fix compression requires abit more knowhow👍 maybe one thing to mention is getting thinner head gasket that helps too can maybe up the compression 0.5 point
Restoring my 68 sport satellite in finland so thats why the euros. Hopped up the 318 it came with by getting an air gap intake 500eur, decked the block with new cheapo rockauto pistons for 100eur a set. Got comps xe262h cam kit for 500eur, basically zero overlap low end torque cam.
Rebuilt cylinder heads for 50eur, lapped new cheap valves to fix guide play and added new guide viton seals. It helped the heads had bronze guides already, was suprised but valves had thick deposits.. Did port match as air gap is for 360 port size and some port work to clean the casting, still rockin the stamp steel rocker arms. If you wanna upgrade rockers it will cost alot, the chinese sets are not really an upgrade over original as you would need to fix the rocker shaft geometry for those to work properly..
Oh yeah and new pushrods since decked, so overall likee 500+500+100+50+100 and like 300 machining work. Helped I could mill the heads myself also having the carb and headers already too. So not too expensive to build 318 if you keep the original rotating assembly and rockers💪 everyone ask why not have big block, well they are expensive here and this was done on student budget👍
I myself have built up a 318. Doing a lot of what you are talking about, with a few more you didn’t bring up. I managed to beat a Chevy pickup with a 350 bored and stroked to a 383. I used it in a short bed pickup weighing 3400 #.
Well for top five video I wanted to focus on the most important things. Sure, there is a few other items you can do to a 318 or any engine for that matter and make more power, but I wanted to focus on the items that I felt were the most important and which gain the most power and give you the best bang for the buck also, thank you very much for watching. If you have any further questions let me know
Cam intake carb heads & exhaust, headers and rest.
Excellent information!
Thank you for taking the time to put this out.
I am glad your channel is growing!
Keep up the good work, it is much appreciated!
👍
Lol, not really.
Thank you for this video u have a 318 powered ramcharger and the thing runs very decent for a motor with 220,000 it starts every time doesn't tick or knock my only worry is it's age I have beat the crap out of it with the wimpy 2 barrel and it's been sturdy for all of it so I'm wondering if it's time for a 4 barrel and manifold
To answer your question more correctly, basically there is a whole series of things you need to be looking at and evaluating to make sure that you're not going to damage the engine by putting on a four barrel. I would say that as long as you have really good oil pressure at idle when the engine is warmed up. Probably in the neighborhood of 30 PSI or better I'd say between 30 and maybe 60 PSI. Good vacuum with the original two barrel on there. If you have let's say 16, 17. Maybe as little as 15 or 14 in of vacuum. You'll probably be okay there. Also take a look at your blow by. That's the amount of air or pressure getting by the piston rings. If you take off the oil cap of the engine while it's idling and you see just puff puff puff puff puff you know coming out of the valve cover one of the valve covers either one. Then chances are you probably got an engine that is in need of some serious rebuilding your you have too much compression leaking past the rings now when you are checking for this blow by make sure the engine is at operating temperature. Okay? Also, if your engine passes all of this for flying colors, you know it's not pushing oil out into the air cleaner. That's another way to see. If you have blow by and you don't have any other issues with the engine then I would probably go ahead and do it. But you know just keep in the back of your mind that you know you. You're adding two more barrels to this thing. You need to be aware that you know that right foot doesn't need to be too heavy. 220,000, mi is quite a bit of mileage. I would seriously consider adding a new timing set in there. Okay, double roller All right. I hope this helps. If you have any other questions feel free to ask
@@slantfish65sd wooooahhhh info overload. this is what i been looking into recently. my goal is to bring backold school mopar wrenchin. not alot of stuff out there for 318 magnum engines.currently did some home port n polish and deck shave on a stock 2barrel. and now my dakota is very snappy and responsive.wondering if id lose power going into a 4 barrel. currently have jba headers and open k&n chrome filter set.
Think 4bbl carb primaries are actually same/smaller than orig 2bbl.
Sure, go for it.
* also, simple port work, and raising CR always makes it better!
I don't know if we have any motor head geeks out here that like history, back in the day, 1960's the only after market muffler was a Cherry bomb glass pack that didnt add any power at all, just made it noisier. You hear the term "Turbo" muffler, well that was a Chevrolet Factory designed Muffler for the Turbo Corvair and it was the second best flowing muffler you could get, the best flowing muffler was the Hemi Cars, you could go to any Mopar dealer and buy a Hemi muffler and have the best flowing exhaust you could buy but the Hemi Mufflers were so so expensive, so most real gear heads that wanted actual performance Mufflers, usually went to the Chevy dealership because they were cheap and worked well. As I said there was no real after market exhaust system until later Into the 70's with muffler Shops opening up.and building a copy of a Turbo muffler. Also, the Turbo mufflers were short because they fit under a rear engined Car and that was a huge benefit to us geeky Rodders of the day who wanted real free HP and a good sound that kept the PoPo away.
Anyway, I've got a ton of These, Ttyl
First of all, thank you very much for your comments. Thank you for watching. Very much appreciate that. I am definitely a gearhead and definitely love knowing about those older historical references to the turbo muffler's and also the hemi muffler's. I've heard of all of this before it's and that's where a lot of our aftermarket performance exhaust systems came from from the '60s when there wasn't the big aftermarket. There was also correct me if I'm wrong but wasn't there. Also a chambered exhaust muffler that was being used by Chevrolet on the some of the Camaros I think something to look into so anyway, thank you very much
I've been daily driving a '92 Dakota with the Magnum for tue last 10 years. Just over 220K on the dash and she's lost some compression. Been thinking about dropping a 360 in her, or even a hemi if she'll fit. But I don't really need 400 horses. Looks like you can easily get to 320 with one of these for cheap.
318 check, 2,5" exhaust check, pipe headers check, 750 cfm holley check, electronic ignition system check
now i need a good intake for the 4 barrels (cant get a cheap one in germany :((
Apologies for not getting back to you sooner as far as intake manifolds go you could buy used as long as that parr is in really good condition you should ok also don't overlook the factory cast iron four barrel intakes that came on 360's
best factory iron , is casting #3512100 .
first thermoquad intake , was non-EGR .
found on 71-340
@@slantfish65sdthe cast iron 360 intake will bolt on to the 318?
Bought a 72 scamp with slant 6. It doesn't run. Junkyard has LA 318 cheap from RV camper. May go 360 magnum and carb route. Great video more to think about. Already have a 727 just abit lost which engine to go with.thanks for the great video
First thank you very much for the compliment but let's be serious the slant six is a fun engine you can do a lot to it and it will respond and make more power and torque and they're great but you can do the same amount of work to a 318 or 360 and the results are way way better. Typical hot rotting practices are going to be headers. Camshaft intake manifold and carburetor and ignition system do all of that to a slant six? And you can expect 220 250 horse. However, as you're doing that to a slant six depending on what camshaft you get, the car can become more and more undrivable in day-to-day driving situations. Do all of this to a 318 or 360 and you can expect quite a bit more potential? Quite a bit more horsepower and torque. You know your torque figures will probably be in the 300 range horsepower figures on the low end for a 318 will be in the with stock heads you're looking at. Probably 285 to maybe 295. If I were you, I would seriously consider the LA318 if you go that direction swapping over to a 360. Magnum is very very simple, very easy. There are engine swap mounts Schumacher used to make some lots of times though. You can just simply find the correct mounts for your year of car and usually they were used for several years so it's not terribly hard. It's a little bit of a hassle, but you know just get with people who have a lot of other mopar's as well and finding the correct bits and pieces like mouths. Maybe even the wiring harness. You know stuff like that art isn't going to be all that hard. Okay thank you very much and I hope this helps. If you have any other questions, just drop a comment and I'll be glad to help you out
@@slantfish65sd hey thanks for the response. The slant 6 hasn't been started in over 15years according to owner, he also stated last time it drove it didn't sound healthy.. I was able to spin the fan/belt very easily..not positive but may be low compression.im only guessing I could be wrong. I'm pretty sure I will be dropping the slant 6. The plymouth scamp did come with a rad and some wiring for a 340 in the trunk. As guy claimed he planned on 340 swap so he gathered a few parts. I will definitely hit you up with questions along the way if you dont mind as you seem to know your stuff very well and I'm kind of new to the older mopar world and appreciate any guildiness on this stuff as questions pop up. Thanks again:)
@@joshthiessen6770 Be aware, that an RV 318 could be lower compression, as put in the bigger trucks. I've got 1 that I rebuilt that had piston .186 in the hole, or below the deck at tdc. It came out to 7.2:1 compression. Had to go with a new set of pistons from Summit.
@@cecilkoselke7878 appreciate the heads up on the RV being different. I had no idea.
Chinese airgap , dual plain intake with both LA & Magnum , bolt patterns .
Inexpensive way to 4 barrel the 5.2 magnum .
However it is a small port intake and not suitable for 360 cylinder heads
Yeah, I almost got a 70's Magnum. But the 85 Chrysler Fifth Avenue seemed more like my size of a car.😕🙂🤓🤠😎😏👍✌️👋👏💪🌾🍀🌿🍃🇺🇸
Yeah I really enjoy the 5th avenue myself. I've got an 89 model and it's a it's pretty good
California reds, they give you the best performance and if you go to an a half inch exhaust or 3 inch it’ll make a big difference, this is what I found with my my 318. Oh, they can hear you for miles.
Walker muffler necks down from 3" to 2'1/2" way inside the muffler, so i went with a 3" Flowmaster 50. Pretty loud!
I found the same issue with a Flowmaster 40 series I believe. Ended up cutting the end of the muffler off Dremeling the hole bigger and welding it back up
First time listening to your videos. You are very knowledgeable. I have a question. I have a 1994 b250 van. She has the 318 in her. I noticed that I had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. Upon further investigation, I found that a pipe that is mounted into the back of the engine going to the manifold on the passenger side has burned out. Question; what is that pipe for?
Sandy, first, thank you so much for watching the video. I really appreciate it. Helps out. The channel that pipe you're referring to is an EGR pipe. It goes from the back of the exhaust manifold to your intake manifold. What it does is it just carries some exhaust gases that get recirculated back into the intake. That's what EGR stands for exhaust gas recirculation so there's a couple of options you can do on this. You can go to the salvage yard junkyard and find one on a existing engine like yours or you might be able to get one of these brand new from like rockauto or some of the other auto parts suppliers. Maybe even Amazon those are options. However, some people have went safarias to like just cut that tube and then fold the ends over to where that they seal and not worry about it. That's been something some people will do as well. If you're going to drive the thing every day, I would replace the tube with a new one or somehow repair the tube. If you're not going to drive it every day, then you may want to consider the other option of just simply folding the ends of that tube up sealing them up. Maybe even having the tube welded up to seal it off and that's an option as well. So anyway, okay thank you very much. Have any further questions feel free to ask
@@slantfish65sd thank you very much. You’ve been a great help. I will continue to watch your videos. Very informative.
Another TH-camr is not a big fan of headers. He says for near exclusive use on the track, yes. If mostly street use, 340/360 exhaust manifolds will do a marvelous job.
True the 340 exhaust manifolds are really really good pieces. Rivaling some headers, however, have you priced them lately? Oh my God not exactly cheap although none of this stuff is cheap. But yeah, if it's got Mopar 340 attached to it you can just about bet it's going to be expensive. So while the 340 manifolds do flow very well, I'm probably just going to use headers myself. But also the Magnum exhaust manifolds Day flow pretty good too. Way better than the stock manifolds. I don't think they're as good as the 340 manifolds, but as far as flow capability, as far as Magnum manifolds are concerned, the ones to really have are the 92-93 model exhaust manifolds. They have a bigger outlet than the 94 and later exhaust manifolds
Also, I wanted to say thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comment
Stock cams were notoriously small. Even a " budget" cam is normally a big improvement.
I just found you channel by accident.
Great channel. Ilike what you're doing.
I just subscribed.
Take care, Ed.
Have a 318 ran 11:5s In a all steel 81 Dodge Mirada with a 300 shot its now being refreshed this winter and were putting it in a 71 Cuda backhalf drag car 14x32 MTs 4:88s 904 auto Fiberglass doors and frontend should run 10s with a 300 shot
That sounds like a pretty cool Mirada be cool if you shared the pictures of it
If you are going to use Manifolds Magnums are the best flowing 92-93 are the absolute best manifolds
Thank you for watching the video and thank you for your comment
Gotta 67 d200 with stock 318 with only 47k on it need a Mopar buddy in Houston/Humble area
First of all, thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comment. As for having a Mopar buddy and the Houston area, I can't really help you with that. I live in Eastern Tennessee near Knoxville however, if you have any questions about your your truck, your 67 d200 with 318 just let me know. I'll do whatever I can to help you out
Hi ! first, sorry for my bad english, i am from Argentina, and i just wanna to buy a grand cherokee 5.2 v8, i know is a 318 magmun engine... so i have many questions about it, but the fistone is... is a good engine? i mean.... not for perfomance, is a long life engine or is a problematic?
Thanks so much for ypur help.
Grettings from Argentina!
Hey, thank you very much for your comment and also thank you very much for asking your questions and I do appreciate all of that. And thank you very much for watching the video. As for the 5.2 in the Jeep Grand Cherokee, is it a long life engine? Is it very problematic? I'm going to answer those questions for you. Actually you for a long life engine. You would be hard-pressed to make a better choice. The 318 5.2 l engine is one of the best engines at Mopar Chrysler Jeep has ever produced. That particular version you're talking about is known as the Magnum 5.2. it is really fantastic little engine. I love them! They are Rock, solid, durable, reliable. They make good power and there are a long lasting engine especially when people take care of them and maintain them. You know like changing the oil in the filter you know doing tune-ups and that sort of thing you know making sure that engine's got everything it needs in order to do its job correctly. These are all things that you need to be aware of or really any kind of vehicle, but whenever you're doing them on a vehicle you want to maintain and keep for a long time. This helps out tremendously. The only real negative problem you're going to find with the 5.2 Magnum V8 engine is the there is a plate that sits under the intake manifold. That plate is made of a very thin sheet metal and if it hasn't been replaced, that plate will warp sometimes and the gasket will will blow out and then it will start to consume engine oil. Now it won't be very much. It's just a very little amount over a long extended period of time. But the issue is is that it will consume that oil and it will have a vacuum leak. The best thing to do is to pull the intake manifold off, replace that plate with a new gasket and there's a company out of California called Hughes engines. They specialize in Mopar engines and they sell a kit that replaces that plate with a thick aluminum plate. You bolts a new gasket. It's a very high quality gasket too. That is really the only downside. That is the only downfall those engines have. But like I said I love those engines. They are fantastic and they are extremely durable. Very reliable. And you'd be hard-pressed to find something better. And again, thank you very much and also if you have any further questions feel free to ask
Also, don't worry too much about your bad English. It's okay, not a problem for me again. Have a great day
@@slantfish65sd THANKS so much for your advice!
i have videos and more and more questions because i want to bouy a one 1995 (american origin) here in Buenos Aires, Argentina.
My problem is, we not have so much culture about V8 engines, of course classical v8 like 302, 292 from Ford because we built it, and 318 too but for dodge polara v8, and from grand cherokee from 1995 to 1999 in Argentina.
In another way, the next saturdat i will see a one for buy, but i have so many questions and i have photos and videos.
Thanks so much for your answer, and again, sorry for my bad english, its my second language and i am trying to improve it.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge man
Thanks for such tips.
@@staric4863 thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comments. If you have any further questions feel free to ask
Hey guys, just found your channel and subbed, very cool, Mopar or no car 👍👍👍👍👍✅✅✅✅✅
Thank you very much. Really appreciate the comments. I'll do my best to try and keep things going
i have a 92 Dakota with the 318 it's fule injection now does carborater give more power what is a good intake and carburetor
Hey Barney, first I'd like to say thank you so much for watching the video and thank you for your comments. As for what's going to be a really good intake and carburetor before that engine, there is two intake manifolds that I've been looking at and I think they're going to do really well for your engine. One is professional products and the other is speedmaster. Both are a dual plane intake manifold. They are both about five and a half inches high. And as far as carburetors are concerned i would probably if it were me. If it was my truck I would probably go with like an Edelbrock 650 CFM carburetor with anular boosters That's the venturies that are down in the throat of the carburetor. The fuel comes out in an anular style pattern so there's going to be the best options. I think for 318 you could step up to a larger carburetor although you're looking at more money. Those intakes run about 270 or so dollars. The carburetor is probably going to be just a shade under 500. There are cheaper carburetors out there but they may not perform as well and you may not be as satisfied and you're wanting to know what would be the best options. I think those would be the best options as far as bolted on and go straight out the box. Edelbrock is actually really good and they're actually pretty easy to change jets too hey Kevin, from the questions feel free to ask. Thanks very much
@@slantfish65sd thank you
Raced the 273 BACK IN 1969,changed the carb,no power increase,kept the solid lifter cam that came with it,added fenderwell headers on my 1965 formula s commando engine,the power increase was dramatic,compression first,got to be 10.5 to 1 or you are wasting your time, the squish is everything,this engine will respond but needs comp,headers,3rd fastest car in kc mo in 1969,lightened the car about 900 lbs,all of the things i did to the 273 worked 5 years later on a 69 318 with bigger bore,decked the block to increase comp,it screamed,stop light to stop light,forget larger valves,port velocity is everything,everything,now you can criticize,i've got mad witnesses,it cost 75 bucks to race me then,won more money street racing than my job paid,ask my losers,there were many
@@strattuner hey just Read your post and yell for a 273. You don't need a lot of airflow, but you're really cutting yourself off. If you don't take advantage of more air flow with just better cylinder heads, I will agree with you though that compression is really important. You need to get the compression up however 10.5 to 1 on a street cast iron. Headed engine can be really difficult to work with if you don't pick your camshafts correctly so but I always come back to that question in my mind of yeah, you've got good compression but you don't have good air flow. How much more power would you be making with more air flow? Port velocity is important but you have to get good airflow you. It's just really important. I really criticizing you. I just don't agree with everything you're saying. But anyway, however, I do think I paid more attention to your post than you paid attention to my video. So anyway, thank you for your comments and have yourself a great day
If you would have a stock 318 in a '76 W200, what would you suggest swapping out? The 2 barrel carb to a 4 barrel, a better intake and adding some headers? How much HP you'd expect to gain and will it have a significanty higher fuel consumption?
Charger Belgium I hope I'm pronouncing that correctly. Thank you very much for watching the video. Really seriously helps out. And thank you very much for your comment. As for let's address fuel economy first. As for fuel economy and a 76w200 with any engine fuel companies not going to be great outside of maybe a diesel those years. Also, they would have hubs if I'm not mistaken. They would have the front hubs would not be able to be unlocked or locked in. They wouldn't have the manually locking or unlocking hubs yours may have these. If it does then that will help out. If you have full time four-wheel drive on yours still then that's something else that's going to try to hurt you. As far as fuel economy is concerned, there's an awful lot of factors though that can factor into fuel company. You got parasitic claws which I've just talked about a little bit. You've also got aerodynamics. You've got engine efficiency. You know those are your three main things there. If as far as like swapping to a four barrel intake and headers and a carburetor and looking to gain more efficiency. You can gain some more efficiency as far as fuel economy is concerned, but not a lot. A lot of that will depend on your driving style so when you're looking at different kinds of four barrel intakes, like I've said before in a lot of my videos, the cast iron spread board intake from the factory is pretty hard to beat. You can use a spreadboard style carburetor on that intake like a thermo quad or a Holly spreadboard carburetor or a quadrajet however, as far as intakes Edelbrock makes the performer air gap intake is really good choice of intakes can be a big determining factor on how an inch of performs. Not only as in making horsepower but also as in fuel economy as well has you seen on your stock 318 the two barrel that's on there is pretty small so going to any size portrayal is going to be a huge improvement in airflow. The big plus with your spreadboard carburetors is that you have very small primaries. Very large secondaries so if you run around on those primaries most of the time your fuel economy may actually be pretty decent. A couple of things I want to throw in there with fuel economy is you may want to think about using some sort of MSD style, ignition box, multi-spark, displacement or discharge if you do that. I have seen it people have significant gains in fuel economy. Furthermore, you may also want to think about using an wide band O2 meter with an oxygen sensor that is capable of working with that wide band O2 meter. Something you can observe right there in the driver's seat. I'm going to tell you your air fuel ratio while you're driving. This can be very helpful. As for headers with a 318, I would probably focus on headers with like a 1 and 5/8 primary and a 3-in collector long tube headers. I would not even think about short tube and a really good dual exhaust system. Probably at least a two and a half inch diameter pipe. Maybe 3 in something else you might want to consider is a clutch fan or an electric fan. These really help out because you're not turning that fan all the time. You're only turning it when you need it, which really is helpful now as far as horsepower, what kind of horsepower do I think you're going to be getting from these from these mods that you mentioned? Headers, carb and intake you're probably looking at about a on the low end. You're probably looking at about 30 horse gain on the high end. You could be looking to much as a 50 horse game. So I'd say chances are that your factory rating on your engine is about 150 somewhere in that neighborhood than additionally your after these notifications you're probably going to be looking at 200 horsepower now. Let me make something very clear optimizing your ignition timing before this and after these modifications can help out a lot with horsepower and fuel economy so I hope that helps. If you have any further questions feel free to ask
@@slantfish65sd thank you sir for your advise and inights, appreciated!
Great Tip's Thank you
So I’ve got a single cab short bed 1999 dodge ram 1500 with the 5.2l 318, I bought it with a rv cam, short tube headers, 180 degree thermostat, installed on the truck already, what direction should I go now? I was wanting to upgrade to the 5.9l manifold but i wanna make sure it fits before i buy one
Hey, first of all, thank you very much for watching the video. Thank you for commenting. Really appreciate all of that. Appreciate your time. As for your 318 your best bet is to figure out what the lift and the duration and the lobes separation angle. All of those things of that cam that's in the engine right now. If I'm reading your comment correctly, you're saying that it came with an RV cam and short tube headers. Here's what I would do first if it was me. Go get yourself a dial indicator with a magnet base. Doesn't have to be anything really high tech or special or anything like that. One of your valve covers off of your engine. Doesn't matter which one. Whichever one is easier I guess. Put a dial indicator on one of the rocker arms on the valve side. Okay, so the rock arm has to be touching the actual valve stem? That's where you want your tile indicator position it so that it can read or measure the amount of downward travel the valve does. You can also do this by positioning the end of the dial indicator on the valve spring retainer. Now when you read that read the amount of lift or the amount of travel the valve has when you read that you may want to do this two or three times okay, so you'll need to like a ratchet and a socket. Probably one and a quarter inch socket and you'll need to borrow the engine over by hand. You don't want to do this by the starter okay? You want to do this by hand that's the wise way to do this and you can watch the needle in the dialing Decatur and see how far it goes. Why I'm saying this is you're taking what the previous owner is saying as you know that being the gospel okay I'm not saying the previous owner is a liar. Okay so I'm just saying the previous owners telling you this. You're believing it. You need to prove it. Okay, once you got that reading you'll need to make sure and check Cam specification charts from nearly everybody and see make sure that it is what he says. It is now. Here's the thing about an RV cam they can come in different lifts. Different duration amounts, different lobe separation angles. There can be a lot of variations there so not all RV cams are the same or are created equal okay. I mean think of it like a carburetor you know somebody says oh I've got a Holley carburetor or I've got a four barrel carburetor okay. What size do you have? If you don't know, you don't know. I mean because there's a lot of different sizes of carburetors so just something to think about. I would be checking that I would be checking my valve lift the duration. Love separation angle especially valve lift and duration. If you check valve, lift and then get yourself a factory service manual or even a service manual by Hanes or Chilton and look it up what the lift is. You can look that up in the manual and you can find out what the factory cam lift is and see if that lift is the same of what you already have. If it is, then most likely you don't have a. You don't have any kind of cam aftermarket cam in there now. I will do you. Do you another favor? When you get the reading contact me again? I'll be sure to look that up and tell you what it is okay what the factory lift will be. Furthermore, as far as short tube headers are concerned, i not a big fan. They don't really offer that much over a set of manifolds, long tube headers or going to improve everything torque and horsepower everywhere. Your next steps that I would consider if you're going to stay with the fuel injection on that engine and if you're going to mess around and change intakes I would not even consider the 360 Magnum beer barrel intake not much of a gain there. I would consider a single plane intake for the Magnum engines. I think professional products sells one right now. Probably sold to summit Racing. They allow you to use fuel injection however you will have to probably get some sort of adapter to adapt your two barrel throttle body to that intake now. Another thing you're going to run around against is that the factory computer is only going to allow so much. Okay so you can put a bigger cam in there. You can put better exhaust system headers. And another thing after the headers make sure you got a really good full dual exhaust system at least two and a half inch diameter pipe. If like I'm saying the factory computers only going to allow so much so you might want to think about going to some other style or type of computer. Maybe you could use possibly the Holley sniper computer, phone your truck and just have it piggyback and just controlling the ignition and fuel. Don't know if your truck is automatic or not, so if it's automatic you may have to retain the factory computer to control the transmission. Some didn't consider. Also, you may have to start looking at better injectors that can handle a larger amount of fuel. And another thing I was strongly recommend and I would do this probably before I do everything else. Get yourself a wide band 02 meter so that you can read the fuel mixture, fuel and air mixture going into the engine and see if it is lean or rich. If you don't you could wind up. You know possibly damaging the engine which is really going to ruin your day and this can also be a great really great tuning tool to help you gain a better understanding and a better knowledge of how to tune the engine and gain more power or drivability and more torque and maybe even a little bit better. Fuel economy which I know is not your gold necessarily but there you go all right. I hope that helps. I know that's kind of all over the place. I didn't really give this information out in a very you know numbers you know one two three four five but there is some ways to do it. Okay, thank you very much. Have any further questions feel free to ask
@@slantfish65sd understandable, rn I’m building. 2009 dodge charger police interceptor 5.7l I just got the truck as a winter truck but he claims there’s work done and he’s proved everything but that cam, I’ll definitely look into it I’ve just got a lot on my hands I just swapped the rear end on my charger but had to get a custom 4inch aluminum one peice drive shaft from cci bec I swapped a whole rear sub frame from a 2015 392 srt and the rear gear on that is 3.09 so im waiting on that drive shaft then she’ll be ready for a tune
1983 d150 want to put summit 6901 cam upgraded springs 2 barrel carb motor is fresh longblock any tips?
First of all, thank you very much for watching the video. Johnny that cam you've picked is actually a really good all around type of cam it will work well in just about any kind of vehicle out there. My only other tip I'm going to suggest is that of course break the cam in like it's supposed to be broken in use a break-in lubricant. Also, I would strongly suggest to you unless you're married to that two barrel carb and intake. I would suggest getting rid of that and going with a four barrel of carb and intake. The Edelbrock air gap style intake works exceptionally well, even though the port, there may be a pork mismatch between the 318 heads and that intake and that brings up the also the cylinder heads. Try to run the best cylinder head you can to take advantage of that. Camshaft the better the better. The cylinder head the the more performance you're going to have and it's going to be so much easier to make power with it. I mean you can just run like a a 596 casting from the 70s which is a 360 Mopar head from the from the smog laden 70s and it will perform tremendously better. Larger valves, bigger ports. Just all around the better performer port that 596 even better. However, the 302 casting cylinder heads. They still have the smaller port but they have a nice chamber that's still a good choice but you can port those heads as well and gain even more performance out of them so try to run the best head that you can and of course use either a magnum exhaust manifold or a maybe some sort of headers that you like, preferably long tube. Thank you again
I have a stock 318 what’s the first couple thing you think I should do on it
If it were mine, I would start with a good four barrel intake. Preferably the cast iron factory piece that was available with the spread bore carburetor pattern usually found on a lot of 360s into the '70s and up into the '80s. These will work exceptionally well on your 318. If you don't want to go cast iron then I would think about maybe Edelbrock air gap or one of the Chinese clones of that intake and for a carburetor I would probably go with something like no less than a 600 CFM on like then Edelbrock. If you're doing the Holly carb then probably go with 600 to maybe as much as 750 CFM same goes for the Edelbrock and get a way better. Exhaust system ditch the single exhaust system get a true dual exhaust system, probably in the two and a half inch range. No less than 2 and 1/4. That'd be the first couple of things I would do really wake that 3 and 10 up and help it out tremendously. Also third thing I do. I know you didn't call for it is a HEI ignition module swap so those are some things I would do. Oh and thank you so much for watching the video and your comments and further questions. Feel free to ask. God bless
I have a 318 on my truck my question is why it only goes 60 mph and struggles going on hills
Ignition timing is severely retarded. I'd say if you put a time and light on that engine, that's most likely going to be said that probably about 12° before top dead center. I've noticed a lot of them. You can bump up that timing to like 14°. Just 2° more timing and it gains power everywhere and actually starts using less fuel too. So check your ignition timing. Let me the first thing I do. If you don't have any ignition timing, light finds you know. Rent one borrow one buy one, but that is a really good thing to be doing. Oh and thank you very much for watching the video. Thank you very much for your comments. If there's anything else I can help with let me know
@@slantfish65sd yes sir !! Thank you very very much im exited ! I’ve been watching your videos for a couple of months now because I get a lot of general and very useful knowledge ! Once again thank you !
If you got the cash, Trick Flow heads. Always Trick Flow heads. They'll bring the compression way up, they have damn near 50% more port flow, and the combustion chamber design is about as perfect as perfect gets short of being a HEMI lol
Hey potato Joe want to say thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comment. You've probably not noticed but on this channel everything here is low buck. So when I am talking to people about doing stuff to their 318 or their 360 or any LA small block or Magnum small block Mopar the underlying issue is do it Holi very tight budget and because that's what I'm working with. I'm currently have two daughters living still living with me and they're in college and getting their career started so he has trick flow heads along with a whole lot of other hands out there. Will outflow most anything that I've got and I totally agree with you on that. But you know I'm trying to get on this channel. I'm trying to get people who are novices newbies to the small block mopar engines get them the information they need to make the performance upgrades they want to make to these engines and I think I even said in the video that you know that if you can afford the better stuff like in my trick flow piece then by all means do it. So I'll throwing off on you or your comment, but there is reasons why I do what I do. Guess it'd be easy to throw $1,000 or more at a cylinder head set of cylinder heads. But when you don't have that you work with what you got and that's what I do. Thank you again
@@slantfish65sd Thank you for taking the time to write a detailed response, I can genuinely appreciate that. I understand where you're coming from better now. I'm a newcomer to your channel, and a fellow MOPAR guy, so you might see my comments floating around from time to time. Best of luck with the channel! Keep on keepin' on man!
Thanks Sir I find all you've shared is very helpful and informative.i have subscribed to your channel,thanks again Sir God bless!
Volume is so low it's hard to hear. Ty for info
new subscriber here
@@PeerlessYT great, thank you. Appreciate it.
If you have any questions about any of the videos let me know
i have a 1978 318 engine in a 1970 vehicle .....what spark plugs do i put in that engine ...it tells me autolite 65 or 66 or champion 405 rn14yc .....whats the differance between autolite 65 and 66
The major difference in spark plug numbers is going to be the heat range. Generally speaking, as the numbers increase in most all of your autolite champion and ACDelco plugs as a number is increased numerically the same 66 over 65. That would mean that the 66 is a hotter plug. The 65 is a colder plug. Okay so it's just simply heat range as far as like what's a good plug for the 318 those auto lights should do. Just do really nicely champions. Also, very good. The champions you mentioned they will do very well, especially if we're talking stock ignition system. Even if it's a ignition system that isn't stock, they'll still do very very well now keep in mind I said generally that's not ironclad set in stone. Okay so good idea would be to Google and check or get in a spark plug catalog and do some checking as well
@@slantfish65sd i am running a pertronix ignition i have take. Out the points
Right now i put the autolite 66 in it and it starts and runs good
Just that the plugs got black fast
Someone told me tgar its normal because i ran the engine on the choke and then shut it off
I havent taken it out in the road yet to see if the plugs will clean themselves aftet a long highway drive
Thanx
I need help with my 01 dodge ram with 5.2 magnum I wanna gain more power and don't know what to do I have cold air intake and about to replace plentum gasket what should I do with exaust and is there any other add ons like bigger throttle body or diffrent intake or something to that nature? Thank you
Hey Sean, just read your comment. I appreciate it very much. I also appreciate you watching the video taking your time to do that. I appreciate that very much too. Something you want to consider though on your truck basically is just making it easier for the engine to breathe in and exhale out. So as far as your exhaust system is concerned, i would probably go with a true dual exhaust system, not a cat-back system that ties in both the exhaust pipes into one pipe for just a little bit and then splits it off into duels just for looks. Make sure it is a true dual exhaust system where you have one pipe for each side of the engine. Okay make sure that you're running like probably a two and a half inch exhaust system. A lot of exhaust shops will try and tell you that. Oh no. You need to run a smaller pipe to maintain flow or to maintain torque. That's not really. There's no basis in that. There's no no truth to it. So yeah I would run at least a two and a half inch system and probably get away from the chambered mufflers like the flowmasters but because they can cut back the flow and cut down the flow on the exhaust system probably I would go with like a a straight through muffler and probably follow that up with some resonators later on in the system. Then also as far as intake manifolds are concerned. There's a lot of different options out there. Your truck sounds more like it's pretty close to stock, so I would probably focus on like a dual plane intake. You didn't state in your comments whether you're going with carburetor or your sticking with fuel injection. What's you know? And if you are sticking with fuel injection, are you sticking with the the factory style fuel injection or you going with something aftermarket? Like a you know Holly terminator x or something like that anyway I would. If you're going with carburetor then I would stick with a dual plane intake. If you're going with fuel injection I would probably stick with a single plane intake. There's just been a lot of issues with the aftermarket fuel injection systems like Holly Terminator x and the MSD atomic and so on and so forth that they do met much much better with a single plane intake than a dual plane. Doesn't mean they won't work with a dual plane. It just means that they generally do better with a single plane. So and there is different throttle bodies and they can make some differences. However, I would probably also direct you to using if you're going to use the beer barrel intake, then different throttle bodies can make a difference, but they can make an even bigger difference on like a single plane intake now as far as those intakes are concerned. There's Edelbrock has got one to fit the magnum heads. There's also and then it'll rock. Also has dual plane intakes. There's to fit the magnum heads Hughes engines out of California. They also have their Mopar specialists and they have an intake for the Magnum. There's also one company called power wind. I think that's the name of them. There's several of them. Several companies that are making intakes for the magnums right now. Most of them are dual planes. There's a few out. There's a few single planes though. Just need to really get on there on summit Racine or jags or Hughes engines and have a look see also, let me suggest one other thing that will help your engine out tremendously bigger. Camshaft that would help even with stock exhaust and the beer barrel intake. Especially when you pick the right cam too. So just something to think about. Okay, if there's anything else I can do to help you feel free to ask and have a great evening. God bless!
@slantfish65sd thank you so much this helped me out tremendously the 2nd gen has always been my dream truck its just the best looking truck ever made in my opinion and when my father in law passed away a couple years ago I ended up with it my plan is to have a nice stance possibly leveling kit and bigger tires but nothing crazy to where I can still drive it around and have something for when it snows. Now is there anything I should do as far as transmission? Like shift kit or upgrade tourque converter? I'm not a mechanic by no means but I've worked on lots of vehicles and understand how they operate but once someone starts talking about lift and lope and cam duration i get super lost im litterly writing everything down you tell me to get and doing it. I don't have alot of money so I'm gonna have to do a little at a time and I know from watching your videos you are the man I need to talk to about my truck so thank you again so much you don't know how much this helps me my truck has sat outside for 2 years because anyone I called or talked to never had a definite answer for me on what I should do you are the only person that's actually got me back motivated and ready to get this thing going so thank you so much
the early rocker shafts ,..(273)
are superior with chrome hardened , two stage oiling , with banana grooves lower .
the forged rocker platform delivers, more accurate ,
high speed , valve timing !
Yeah, I actually have some of those rocker assemblies for the 273s the they are also adjustable due to their solid lifter nature and they're pretty cool. They're pretty cool and you're correct, they do offer more accurate valve timing
What car can I look for that 360 manifold off of?
That intake manifold you're referring to, you can find it on pickup trucks especially 1 ton d350 dually pickup trucks. Also fans especially the b350 also any cop cars? The cop cars came with that manifold and they had that manifold on the 360s and then there was some cop cars with 318 that also had that manifold then of course there's also just any rear-wheel drive. V8 Mopar anytime I go into a salvage yard I just look at most any of them that I know is going to be V8 rear-wheel drive and carbureted. So just look for any Dodge truck from or van or rear-wheel drive cars from Year model 88 and back and You should be able to find a manifold. Also Facebook marketplace. I've seen a few floating around on there and eBay
And I just wanted to say thank you very much for watching the video and thank you for your comments. Any further questions feel free to ask
I've got a 84 Dodge d100 and all of a sudden it wants to bog down and die when it gets to third gear. Idles great also goes through first and second or good. Would you think that would have something to do with the carburetor possibly? Thanks for any advice.
First of all, thank you for very much for watching the video. I truly do appreciate it. As far as your issue with the engine bogging down whenever it gets into third gear there can be a couple of different things going on there. First, I would check and make sure that there is not a fuel system problem. There can be a restriction in the fuel line. Kind of uncommon I would also check to make sure that you don't have a leak in one of the fuel lines. Also make sure that your fuel filter is not plugged partially plugged to. Also make sure that you have a good working fuel pump that should still be the mechanical fuel pump on that 84 model. Also check your ignition timing and make sure you're vacuum advances actually working. If you your distributor on that truck doesn't have a vacuum advance, make sure that the timing actually advances as the engine is speeding up in RPMs. Best way to tell this, get yourself a timing light and then you can actually literally watch the ignition timing advancing or retarding as the engine speeds up or slows down check all of these things. If you're still experiencing the issue, there could be some something plugging or clogging the fuel pickup tube in the fuel tank. Let me know what happens. Thank you very much. God bless
What is the difference between the standard 1971 318 and the 1971 D-600 318-3? Is it the same block?
I will be making a video about this subject very soon in the next couple of days
318-3 should be the stronger Forged crankshaft.
Of course different block (casing #)
But the same, but
I’d look at the mounts, seein it’s a truck block.
But, dont mix up the parts in the rotating assemblies
Not gonna lie, kinda disappointed that remove 318 and replace with a 392 hellcat didn't make the list!!!😂😂😂 a very good video though!!!
First of all, thank you very much for watching the video. Really seriously appreciate it. As far as your comment, I do realize it was more of a comedic thing. I don't know where you're from or what your financial situations are like, but mine are of the nature that my financial situation is basically like anything that's $1,000 like that. Then I can't make payments on. You can pretty much forget it. It ain't going to happen and just your standard 5.7 l v8s hemi. They're running about 12 to 1500. Sometimes 1800 for a used good used replacement engine, so that doesn't look very promising to me. Again, I do realize you're comment was comedic in nature and not a jab at what I was trying to do. However, let's do realize that I don't care what kind of V8 you're talking about. What kind of engine you're talking about if you give it a cylinder head? That isn't all that good is restrictive and is basically made just for low-end torque and then also pistons that are low compression and then also very small. Camshaft lift and duration numbers with very little overlap and then also restrictive intake manifold with a restrictive tiny carburetor and then restrictive exhaust manifolds. Yeah that engine ain't going to make a lot of power and the same holes true for a 318. But if you were to do all of that too, like a 392 heavy V8. Yeah, it'd be a slug too to be a dog or a slug or whatever you want to call it. It wouldn't get out of its own way. So bye if you rectile all those items. Guess what you got to engine that will get up and go now. I know a lot of people with much rather go and have a engine built for them or they'd rather have an engine they going by and just put it in something because they don't want to build an engine and that's cool too. But that's not me. I like building engines. I love it! I love taking an engine that has no chance of making any power and all of a sudden it's making power. It's making really really good power. Okay so again thank you for watching. That's just my rant and not a rant that is mean or vindictive and then addressed to you at in a mean or vindictive way. So have a good day and God bless
Hi, I know you have a million comments on this that are probably getting your attention but I have a 1991 dodge ram w150 with a 318 and I’m about to do my first rebuild on it just to keep it fresh it’s got 158k OG miles paired with the 4sp manual with the granny gear. It was used as a mountain/log truck by my grandfather and he’s passed it down to me so I want to do an overhaul even tho the truck runs flawlessly currently. But is there any chance I’d be able to get some sort of contact info from you so I could get your help with the rebuild? I’m nervous about it and just want the truck to last my family a while
Yes, you can email me slantfish65sd@gmail.com I'd be very happy and grateful to provide any assistance that I can
Would you happen to have the serial or casting number on that 360 4bbl intake manifold. Please I’m in need of one. Or would you like to sell one? Thanks
Hey Alfredo, unfortunately no, I can't sell you one of my cast iron intake manifolds. However, I will give you the casting number two of them. There's really nothing special about them. The casting number is 417-3915 2. Okay this one in particular. I'm giving you the cash number for it was made in 1982. So really any of the 360 or the 318 4-wheel intake manifolds. They're all pretty much the same. Even the port windows. They didn't change the the intake manifold port window just for the three team. They left it exactly the same when the 318 got a four barrel. So anyway, I hope that helps. If there's any other questions I can help you with let me know. Thank you very much and God bless!
@@slantfish65sd really really appreciate you taking the time to reply. Thanks so much for the information. learned something new today!! Cheers 🍻 thanks again.
I was wondering, my 89 d100 is fuel injection. Can I take the intake off and put like a torquer two intake and maybe a edelbrock 600 on it?
First of all, thank you for watching the video. I really do seriously appreciate it. As far as bolting a different intake on your 318 and putting a carburetor on it, that is very very doable. 600 CFM carb weather Edelbrock demon Holly you name it. Whatever you like would be pretty darn good. The factory original fuel pump can be used. The one that's in the tank for the fuel injection that can be used. You're just going to have to use a fuel pressure regulator in conjunction with a return line to the tank. Now that truck probably already has a return line. Most of your fuel injection systems out there from that time frame would have had a return line so that's what I would do. I would just utilize the the intake fuel pump and use the supply lines that are already there plus the return line that's already there. Plumb them up to a fuel pressure regulator. Put the rent set the regulator like maybe 6 psi. Maybe 7:00 and maybe even as low as five PSI. And that should be plenty good enough. The reason why you might find it difficult to use a mechanical fuel pump is that some of those timing covers did not have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump or they were blocked off and it may not have the fuel pump cam on the end of the camshaft so that's another. That's just something you have to work around you will also need you some sort of ignition system. You can use the Mopar performance electronic ignition per tronics. That's another one. MSD they're they're very good. I just remembered. There's also the Mopar electronic distributor used in conjunction with a GM HEI ignition module though. I've heard a lot of great stuff about those as well. I would also just retain the factory computer to allow it to run the gauges and the dash and that would be that. Oh, if you still have the factory catalytic converter system on the truck, you're probably going to have to ditch that the I think those trucks came with as many as three catalytic converters don't. Although don't quote me on that so I hope all of this helps. Also putting a aluminum in four barrel intake and a four barrel of your choice on there. Will definitely wake up at 3:18 and it will work great
@@slantfish65sd thanks, that really is a big help! The cadillacs are definitely coming off cause I ordered some long tube headers off Ebay a while back. Building up some more parts right now and hopefully after this winters over I'll spend a long weekend doing upgrades so I may ask some more questions about it down the road lol! I'm 49 and always had GM cars so just started trying to tinker with mopars. Fell in love with this d100! Runs better than any GM I've ever had lol! Well thanks again and been watching a bunch of your videos. Great content 👍
750cfm carb. Aluminum intake port matched. Port the heads. Headers. And a cam between .450 and .480 lift.
Edit:when I say port matched I don't mean openedup to gasket size. And also not the first few inches. Match it to the correct port size and open the entire intake runner to a minimum of that size.
Top things for gas mileage?
Three items in this video can help you get better fuel mileage out of your 318 if you will pay attention to your ignition system and your the air coming into the engine and the fuel system and also the exhaust system the less restrictions you have in the exhaust system. The and the smoother it is so like say if you have like if you say right now you have a single exhaust system with you know a lot of convoluted turns and 90° turns and things like that it's going to be somewhat restrictive you put a dual exhaust system on there where you got. You know a nice good size pipe for both sides then plus a maybe a 2 1/4 or 2 and 1/2-in pipe. You'll have a really good flowing system and you'll get more efficient. It will be more efficient ignition system. If you can improve the ignition system by having a hotter more complete spark, you'll improve that for efficiency as well by simply having maybe a you could try an MSD system or an MSD box triggered by the you know whatever distributor you've got weather points are electronic, then there's then there's also you can. Like you know, get better plug wires open up the plug gap. You can also have a distributor cap and rotor button with the brass contacts. Those actually help a little bit. Also, as far as like you know as far as like the fuel system is concerned, you know maybe you're not going to a four barrel. If you do you know. Just make sure that you got a good supply of fuel there and it's clean and your you got good pressure. Something like say 6 lb 7 lb. Something like that no more than 7 lb. Make sure that carburetors clean and doesn't have any vacuum leaks as far as the rest of the intake system, the air getting into the carburetor make sure there's no restrictions there. Make sure it is cool. Clean air so you know good clean air filter. If you are going to stick to a paper air filter just make sure it's clean. It doesn't really matter what brand it is. If you're going to go with a cotton gauze filter, something like a Canon that's actually really helpful. They do a really great job. I have seen games sometimes with a k&n filter. Also, make sure that your air coming to your air intake is your error. Cleaner assembly is from the outside of the engine compartment, not the inside. Yeah the open element air filters are cool looking but they don't really help performance that much. Sounds like they do but they don't. Oh one other thing on the exhaust system. I can't really tell you what kind of muffler you want or that you're going to get. Just make sure it's something that's free or flowing than say a turbo muffler. The turbo style mufflers are they're not that great. Try to avoid those if you can. Hope that helps. Thank you for watching
Also what brand long tube headers do you like best
First of all, I'd like to thank you for watching the video and really appreciate it. Also very good question. As far as like favorite long tube headers that depends on the vehicle they're going in. If we're talking 60 to 66 early A body mopar's there's not really any real good ones out there. TTI makes some but they're pretty expensive. Just about everybody's is pretty expensive for the early a bodies. I think hedman also makes some fender well headers they're they're. Also, you know, pretty good, but they're also very expensive. My recommendation to you if you're looking for like a recommendation for a header go around. Be talking to people like it, car shows or drag races or cars and coffee events. Cruise ends. Find the people that have any small block mopar's and be talking to them. What long tube header works best in their particular chassis? Especially if say their particular car is very similar to yours or identical to yours. If you have like you know a b-body Mopar from the '60s and on up into the '70s again, TTI is pretty good. All of TTI stuff is going to be kind of expensive though you know, but it's kind of one of those deals. Headers are kind of one of those things you get what you pay for. If you buy a cheap set of headers, you're going to get a cheap set of headers That's not going to last very long and they're going to leak and they're going to cost you all kinds of headaches and aggravation More expensive headers. You know they're going to last longer. They're going to be a better quality that sort of thing. Generally some things to look for as far as headers are concerned is the flange that bolts to the head. If that's nice and thick that's going to be a header. That's probably going to leak a hell of a lot less and other thing is don't cheap out on gaskets get a really really really good high quality header gasket. You're going to be miles ahead. Trust me, hedman also makes a really good header for like the trucks and some of the other mopar's as well. Generally when you're talking about mopar's and headers is generally not always a good thing because a lot of mopar's you know like has the longitudinal or I'm sorry I'm sorry. I'm sorry parallel parallel torsion bars that run parallel with the frame rails. Those can cause some issues when you got that going on. It's like oh my God. So a lot of the header manufacturers just didn't take a lot of that into consideration. And so you have headers that don't fit very well. And you're kind of poor quality. So I guess my my overall recommendation is probably going to be TTI
I got some magnum exhaust manifolds for my 1983 Ramcharger 318, but I’m noticing on the driver side the shifter linkage gets in the way. Any suggestions on how to clear it?
I'm assuming you're talking about the shifter linkage on the column shifter for an automatic transmission on this ramcharger really about the only way I know to get around all of that is to probably set up a aftermarket type floor shifter for your transmission. Something like a b&m ratchet shifter or Hurst shifter. You know the operates with a cable, however, do keep in mind. Please do keep the cable away from any significant heat sources you know like exhaust any part of the exhaust system. But one great thing about the cables are that you can wrap them in heat insulating material that will insulate the cable and keep it from getting burned and damaged. The as far as like trying to retain the column shifter and do this, you're going to have an uphill battle because one you're mixing in a shifter that wasn't necessarily supposed to be used with those exhaust manifolds but also two. Please do keep in mind that these exhaust manifolds were used on the 92 and '93 Dodge ramchargers so you might want to go and find one of them and see what they did to keep the the linkage clear of the exhaust system. Also, if you can send me pictures of your particular setup your particular ramcharger that would be very helpful. I could comment and I could tell you what would be a good alternative other than using a floor shifter if you want to retain the column shifter. Also, be sure that your engine mounts or transmission mount hasn't shifted moved, got damaged in some way or even the mounting brackets haven't gotten bent like possibly in an accident or something like that. Okay, I hope this helps you again. I extend my apologies out to you for not getting back to you sooner, but if you do have the time, please send me some pictures of your your ram charger so I can see what your problem is and maybe I can comment and tell you more about what you need to do. Thank you very much. Have a great day. God bless and merry Christmas!
@@slantfish65sd thank you for your reply and I appreciate your advice. I’ll definitely look into a floor shifter. Happy holidays!
very nice . Thankyou
I just subscribed. Wat state u from u mentioned Nc
Tennessee
Thanks for the subscription
No crap I’m on the Nc tn line close to app state
Do you know if the Magnum exhaust manifold will fit an ‘88 Fifth Avenue chassis without modification?
Unfortunately I don't know for sure I have an 89 Chrysler Fifth Avenue and I am pretty sure those magnum manifolds will work but I will be looking at my fifth avenue and taking measurements and reporting back to you it
@@slantfish65sd For sure thank you 🙏🏻
What year magnum Manifold I have a 1985 la 318
Any of the Magnum manifolds from 1992 to 2002 318 and 360 5.2 and 5.9 l will bolt on and work providing there is space in whatever chassis that engine is in The one thing you need to look out for though is if you can get the 92 to 93 Magnum exhaust manifolds. They usually flow a little bit better because they're a little bit larger but any of the Magnum manifolds are better than the stock manifolds. The stock LA manifolds that is however, they won't outflow long tube headers but they are considerably better than the stock LA manifolds
@@slantfish65sd I want to do best build to my la 318 so whats your recommendation on I take year model I want to put 4 barrel cam and headers
I have a 2004 with a 4.7 will my 2000 5.2 bolt up to tranny
Hey Mark, first of all, thank you very much for watching the video. Seriously appreciate it and my apologies for not getting back to you sooner. The question you have about bolting up a 5.2 318 to a existing transmission in an '04 Dodge truck. The bellhousing patterns are very very similar. As a matter of fact there is only one bolt hole that is different. All the rest of them line up. However, pay attention and be careful when you do this because your of your dowel pins in the block in that face where it needs the transmission bell housing. There is dowel pins that line the transmission bell housing to the block. Make sure they do fit. Do not force them because you will crack the transmission case. It's only aluminum. It's just cast aluminum. Furthermore, that one bolt hole that won't line up. It's only off by like a half an inch so you can probably modify the whole in the bell housing so you know. Basically just get like a die grinder and some sort of you know a carbide bit and then start working on it. You can even use a drill with a carbide bit and do that again, thank you very much for watching and hope that helps you. Any further questions feel free to ask
15:21 my 318 magnum has a double barrel EFI carburetor on it is yours stock?
Yes my 318 did you see in the video that I'm referencing is stock? That particular engine is an 86 or 87 model 318 LA non-magnum engine so that means it has the 302 casting number cylinder heads? It has the roller lifter camshaft, but that also means that the heads are somewhat restrictive in comparison to a magnum and I'm being generous with that term somewhat. The intake on it is just your typical 2 barrel carburetor cast iron intake manifold that the 318s had at that time frame. Very similar to the intakes you would see on most any three team for a very long time. That particular engine that I'm referencing is the $50 318. If you watch some other videos, I reference it on several occasions and even show some videos of it too. But I want to say thank you very much for watching the video. Thank you very much for your comments and have a great day God bless
Yes that particular engine is stock. I don't know why but my phone put a? Behind the word stock anyway that particular engine came out of like a passenger car like an 86 or 87. It has the passenger car oil pan and I'm assuming it probably came from like a Chrysler 5th avenue Dodge diplomat or Plymouth Grand fury from that time frame I bought the engine literally for 50 bucks and it was in a buddy of mine's garage for a number of years. He'd forgotten how long it been there so it's been pretty fantastic really. But yes, it is very much stock
Would you know how to tune an EFI carb for better mpg cause I currently get around 13 mpg and I want to increase it. The carb has downward jets and pretty much all electrical and I did lower the RPM a bit so it's not over 1k during idlein park or neutral
It looks like a Holley EFI carburetor I just don't know how to tune it for better mpg