I BROKE MY TRACTOR
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Many of our videos are comedic & satirical & not intended to cultivate antisocial or unlawful behavior. Thank you for supporting our Channel through the below affiliate links. No price increase for you but we may receive compensation.
-Amazon - our store - wranglermart.com
-Jk Boots - www.jkboots.co...
-Radios Made Easy - radiomadeeasy....
-Amsoil - www.amsoil.com...
-GoDark Bags - godarkbags.com...
-Premier Body Armor - www.premierbodyarmor.com/wranglerstar
-Vertx - shareasale.com...
-My Patriot Supply - www.preparewithwranglerstar.com
-Eden Grow Systems - edengrowsystem...
Become A Wranglerstar Member For Exclusive Content and Perks
/ @wranglerstar
SUBSCRIBE: bit.ly/2btWfQR and turn on notifications to get them
#Proho #wranglerstar
GET YOUR EXTRACTOR KIT HERE: goo.gl/hRVxgA
I'm pretty sure that Irwin is making Snap On's tap and dies sets, they may even be making their extractors now too.
Um, Cody? I'm pretty sure that Irwin Hanson set does have left-handed drill bits...
McMaster Carr sells left handed drill bits.
Wranglerstar the comments on one man one machine is exactly correct I work for Australia's largest transport company and when we use that principle the trucks last significantly longer awsome video you can still get left hand drills snap on make the kit with left hand drill bits and as do Sutton drill bits an Australian company they have been making drills and tools now for 120 years you should check them out I'm a heavy vehicle mechanic and they have never failed me thanks again for the video I was a bit worried when I saw glass in the Facebook page I love how you do that it's like a cliff hanger I personally like the anticipation.... ooohhhhh when is the next video lolol
wranglerstar this is the part # for left twist drill bits from harbor freight. Warrior - Item#61686
You were running your left handed drill bits backwards. You were saying you had a right handed set, yet they were left hand twist.
Agreed. What he said. You could clearly see they were left hand drill bits and the box even said left hand, yet Cody was running the drill clockwise. OOPs
same thing I noticed.
Yep! Cody, you're awesome but not perfect. It's pretty rare for you to make a mistake like this. It's deserving of a little ribbing.
What he said^^
Not trying to be disrespectful. I really like and appreciate the work you put into this channel.
Wranglerstar, those are left-handed drill bits. You then used one in a right-handed direction (clockwise) in your drill which advanced the threaded stump further into the joint rather than backing it out.
Is it just me or did anyone else notice that the drill bit he used was actually left handed. The spiral turns the same way as the eze-out. In the video he does turn it right handed and screws it up. But that was a left handed drill bit I saw.
M
.oot yaw gnorw eht ti did eh was I, haeY
2:36 case says it's left-handed
Nice job fishing the broken part out once it ran into the ball joint. FYI those WERE Hanson LEFT hand cobalt drill bits and you were running the drill clockwise when it should have been counter clockwise. That is why it wasn't cutting and ran the piece into the ball joint. Still a good video with otherwise good information.
I noticed the drill bits too. Oh well, Live and learn. Still love the videos. :)
I agree on loving the videos. As I said above "otherwise good info" Cody does a great job with his videos. I can't say I have never run a drill backwards by accident because I have. Wink maybe more than once.
Rashley's BorderQue 8
I'd be nervous about heat on the joint and boot. Maybe try a recessed/flush grease fitting instead.
Word of advice. Keep the inside of those front wheels clean. Changing seals because of build up of mud is not a lot of fun.
since this happened to both zerks i would cut a small piece of 3/4 black iron pipe and tack weld it to the tie rod end it will protect the zerk from damage and debris alot of heavy earth moving equipment have armored grease zerks
MetroplexPrime2009
No, this is a BAD tip... 99% of tie rod ends on new compact tractors use a plastic ball seat, rather than metal. Welding to the top of it will melt the plastic, and your tie rod end will be junk.
Just make sure to watch the tire chains, and if they're getting close to the fitting, fix them.
I read in a book once that a old farmer said grease is cheaper than steel
The other reason why machines last longer with one person using it is because they take more pride in their machine. A tractor or excavator or something that has several different people using it never gets the proper maintenance because the guys using it don't feel like it's their responsibility to do all the things required for proper care. In my experience anyway.
I once blew up the engine on a company car. I didn't know that apparently everyone who drove a company vehicle was supposed to check the oil. I incorrectly assumed we had a maintenance schedule on the company vehicles and that somebody else was in charge of it. Apparently I wasn't alone in my assumptions because nobody else was checking the oil on the vehicles either. We were actually quite fortunate that it was one of the oldest, least expensive vehicles that lost the engine because some of the company vehicles were very, very expensive.
Agree. Now days it's hard to find anybody that wants to work, but even harder to find one that'll treat the equipment like they own it. It's sad when you put somebody on a 1/2 million dollar machine and they almost try to destroy it. I've always tried to treat other people's equipment as if I was the one making payments on it.
"Oil and grease are cheaper than parts. " That was what I heard as a kid from my dad, who got it from the farmer he was "loaned" out to as a kid. We saved our used oil and would lube the sickle mower every 2 rounds, or else you got in trouble. Greasing beforehand was a given, like checking the oil. Our standard for greasing was keep going until "new" grease was seen all the time. Anyone else do that today besides me?
i really like the truck videos and machinery videos you make cody. then again i like all the videos you make
Thank you
Perhaps in the 'advanced' version of the video you could discuss correctly identifying left-handed drill bits and why you shouldn't run them clockwise in the drill when extracting grease zerks, or grease nipples as they call them on this side of the pond? Still, job done, so all good... ;)
TCW81 It's a form of humour - you seem unfamiliar with it, so I can only recommend google and/or wikipedia ;)
Maybe i was seeing it wrong, but it looked like the drill bit he used was actually a LH, not a RH like he thought it was...
The box Cody pulled them from labelled them as left hand drill bits.
2:36 box says you're right!
I love how to videos where the person does it totally incorrectly
cmonster6 Then look up Red Green on TH-cam.
He doesnt claim to be a pro mechanic, he even makes fun of himself .. ??
I think I own every extractor made...55yrs Diesel Tech, retired x3 (still puttering)!
USE MORE CAPS LOCK PLS, CANT READ IT
It is painful watching this guy do anything mechanical
I enjoy your videos very much but i thought this was quite a case of clickbate, i am noticing that your videos are steering this way
I done broked muh trakterr!
In my 50 years of experience working with tools I have found those style of Easy-outs are pretty useless. What works for me 90% of the time are the Left Handed drill Bits (but of course you do need to run the Drill in REVERSE) LOL!! I've also got a set of splined Snap-on type (actually made my Rigid) that are a little better but not by much. When a Left Handed Drill doesn't work I try cutting a slot in the piece and using a straight bladed screwdriver (if reachable of course). If all else fails a miniature diamond encrusted Dental Style burr or bit in a Dremel Mototool ALWAYS saves the day. If you are careful the threads are not ruined - but most of the time I do chase them anyway with the appropriate sized tap.
Love this type of sharing of info Bobby....
Bobby W: WS missed the satire
I do this sort of engineering repair work professionally and I try to avoid introducing metal chips into a grease point.
A neat fitting Allen head bit will do a much better job than the tapered extractor. Snap on and Cat make excellent (although expensive) extractor sets that use the straight spline design. I don't bother to carry them in my tool kit anymore because I always have my Allen head tools anyway and I have not found a situation yet where they would not do the job. i think the idea of welding some sort of protection around the grease head is fine, just keep the heat away by cooling the area quickly.
Buy one of those ring shaped magnets that was a bit too imperfect for a medical pacemaker, and set that around where you are drilling, and tapping to collect as much of the steel metal chips as possible. Otherwise you wind up with extra metal shavings in your grease, where they will speed up wearing out the ball joint. I used to put them around holes I was drilling in electrical panels to keep the conductive steel out of the buses. That can get rather violent, and extremely unpleasant, should a large chip short out part of the gear. It is a good reason to wear a Nomex jacket, and a face shield.
And to cut a slot, a Dremel with a cut-off wheel works wonders. A NAPA counterman told me that trick after I sheared off the bolts on my rear U-Joint in my CJ7.
there is nothing easy about an easy out
Lol and by the Facebook post, i was expecting a smashed window or door....
A little grease more often is better than lots of grease once in a while.
In Australia we say Easyouts and Grease nipples. There are some minor language differences, like when an American speaks about sodder he is talking about solder. But a greasert threw me for a loop. Great videos, keep them coming.
For those folks not aware, vehicals used to have grease fittings also. Popular Mechanics had an article years ago how to drill, tap, and insert grease fittings into the ball joints and tie rod ends.
PUT YOUR GLASSES ON !! It was a left hand bit!!
Perhaps you need glasses, the bits are RH
You'd better double check, they are left hand bits.
@Wranglerstar: No. Go in to your workshop and compare them to your regular metal drill bits, and then come back here and say they look the same...
Sorry, but it is clear those are left hand. They cut spinning counter clockwise, thus left hand.
They are left handed, they look like left handed bits.And it literally says they are left handed on the case. So unless you reversed the footage and put different bits in the case they are left handed
Why not use a correct size spanner instead of plyers to tighten the greaser. Might help prevent another break or ruin the hex. I would cop an ear full if i did that at work!!
The number of thread sizes used in equipment for grease fittings is ridiculous, and having them all on-hand is a real pain. GRRRRRRRRR!
The same is true of allen wrenches, which come in 64ths of an inch, plus metric of course, and in several thread sizes. GRRRRRRRR!
IMHO, the tie rods belong BEHIND, not in front of, the axle, which gives these vulnerable point at least a little bit of protection. Placing them in front is a major design mistake.
(My Mahindra has the tie-rods behind the axle)
Another very handy greasing tools to have is a "blowout" tool for freeing up stuck-up grease joints. The good operator is never far from his grease gun, and takes care to get every one of them, and often. Grease is CHEAP, repairs are expensive.
4WDs commonly have tie rods in front to avoid interference with the driveshaft.
Not sure if this ha been mentioned yet, but you could dip the drill bit in some clean grease before drilling, to help the metal shavings stick and not fall into the ball joint. Cheers from Canada!
Oskar Zerkowitz emigrated to the United States and changed his name to "Oscar Ulysses Zerk". He was also known as "Oscar V. Zerk". He became a world-famous inventor and one of his most prominent creations was a grease fitting known as "the zerk". This was a lubrication system which became the basis for those used on nearly every car, truck, plane, and other mechanized vehicle. At the time of his death in 1968, it was estimated that 20 billion of these fittings had been manufactured.
Thanks for the info.
Be careful with those grease zerks, some are what's called "drive-in", looks like threads but aren't. Those you just simply "tap" in carefully with a hammer.
Now that you've pushed a hole in the boot on the ball joint, you've also just allowed dirt and water to get in as well too. Won't matter if you wash or not, it's a hole in the boot which is to hold grease in the joint.
To be honest, I hate them myself. I should've stated, you can use a soft mallet or brass hammer, that won't distort them. Or, you can just simply rethread the hole and put in a proper zerk. Done that many times.
its called a "grease nipple" in the UK Cody".
Grease nipple here too 'cause it's more fun to say but everyone knows what a grease Zerk is in Canada.
Ultrafrozen if you arsked me what a grease zerk was I would say one of my mates on a Saturday night!
Grease Nipple here in NZ too, besides it's more fun to say... Nipple... heh!
it's called a grease nipple everywhere... I don't think he likes the word nipple...
nipple.
I saw you broke a camera too? we use a Ipad for all our videos and i get so scared about breaking it. in just 20 episodes, we have dropped it 3 times and cracked the screen... there's no way it will survive this 1806 house renovation.
Yep that was a left handed drill bit run in the wrong direction another brand of extractors I have a lot of luck with is the grab it extractors you find at lowes, Home Depot etc if it doesn't get it you're going to have a fight on your hands no matter what
That pair of Snap-On pliers are the best pliers I own. I'm not one to spend a lot of money on the Snap-On truck unless I have to but they have so much grip its amazing. I like them so much I bought a pair for my dad a little while after I bought mine. Just a little plug for the red handled pliers.
Wow give the man a break. So it was a left hand drill bit. I was just happy I could let my Children watch a you tube video with out worrying about swearing every other word. Videos are great keep them comeing.
where's the grease coming from? a torn boot?
seems the ones that are meant to flow easily... if you are making a balloon stop pumping !
Justin Tarvid was wondering the same
don't worry, if the boot is cracked ( or seal ruined from over greasing) the ball joint can be replaced next video. just call in ""standard maintenance"
No it does not appear to be coming from the boot, maybe a self purging type of joint, and we did see some contaminated grease get pushed out. This is my profession and I had no problems with his reasons for pumping so much grease.
If your lucky you can get grease fittings out with out drilling if you have the right size ez out
left hand bit was turning right hand
what happend to the camra and window
kodye lasovich Yeah, when I saw the title I thought for sure it would be a video about the broken glass. I was surprised when it was about a zerk fitting.
I'd love to see more of this kind of stuff!
A little grease on the end of the drill bit will help keep shavings out.
Thx for this, man. I'm new to tractors, and am about 12 hours into my tractor since I bought it, so it says on the tractor to re-grease every 10 hours. Glad to have tips like this so hopefully I can get more life out of my tractor.
In exception to the one user rule, my neighbor always made sure to grease his tractor once a year, if it needed it or not....... ;-)
He had to have new sleeves welded in due to the neglect. If the operator is an idiot, the machine is still going to be in trouble.
Its amazing just how much abuse a machine can take before it fails.
Good fix! And in the process, you found out you need a new dust boot!
I learn so much from you. Please keep it up. Wish you had a powerking 2418. I just bought one of those thinking I could learn about tractors with a cheap restoration project. :D I didn't realize how much I don't know. Good luck with everything Cody and I look forward to your future videos.
I could use one of those sets for many things around our because a lot of things were neglected during the long hours of work and not paying attention to the things around the house that needed to be done. And of course after long days of work you don't feel like dealing with all those outside chores! So I thank you for sharing this tip up your sleeve CODY AND ONE OF MY FAVORITE CHANNELS ON TH-cam! I have begun to notice some of my old Antiques that have joinery from very good craftsman built in another era. In fact I was working on a project yesterday in our guest bathroom that has an old wooden frame with a simple joinery that reminded me of some of your episodes on TH-cam and how you used you used your Japanese tools to make that special toolbox and many other things as well. I have come to appreciate how delicate that type of work really is and can take care of it better by learning what to use on it for polishing etc. I haven't quite learned how to use the sharpening tools yet be a little lady I've not I had the opportunity to watch these kind of programs and even know what the terminology that was used for these tools was all about. Anyway I enjoy your channel because it's family-friendly with lots of gardening with your wife Mrs. W. Have a blessed day with your work and your family and I will look forward to the next video or on Instagram that you share with us too! 👍👏☝️🏡😍.
Hello make sure you guys know I'm in the hospital! You guys so taught me a lot but due to his many medical issues that I have. I don't know! I hope I couldn't handle it. You guys have taught me a lot so don't forget what you're teaching. Due to my medical condition. I really don't know how much longer I can take this. I just know it's getting worse. I hope you realize you're not only entertainment but teaching as well. Keep the good job up.
Sincerely!
Richard Virchow
All is good except for drilling all the way through in the wrong direction & leaving metal filings inside the ball & socket. Fortunately the threads were not damaged & you could thread the new zerk fitting back in. When greasing ball & socket joints with the rubber boots, typically I give it a squirt and a half using my hand trigger grease gun. I am looking at it closely, looking for a slight bulge of the boot, but not so much to blow a pin hole in it & pushing out the grease, as at this point it becomes counterproductive.
The other style is the umbrella boot, whereas it is okay if a tad of grease oozes out below it's lip. When greasing shafts or rods with bushings, I typically keep pushing the grease through until I see some movement of the previous grease job. I have learned from experience too that it pays to use a high quality type 2 grease when greasing my equip., be it the truck, tractor, trailer, etc. I personally use the industrial grade blue grease from Valvoline as Kendall makes a good one too although it is extremely expensive. The Valvoline isn't cheap either, when it goes on sale at my local NAPA store, I stock up on it!
Good post here & thanks for sharing your experience.
Bill on the Hill... :~)
Good video! I buy and use them as a consumable bit in my toolbox, since with constant use even the expensive ones get chewed up pretty quick. Irwin makes a nice mid-grade compromise and any local ACE hardware will usually stock them or be able to order them in pretty quick and cheap. They make LH drill bits, too.
left handed bit, hence, no chips when drilling, besides, just look at the flutes... owned. by the way, I love your channel, but to let you know, I love and use the forward button on my keyboard to kick your vids up 5 seconds, a lot.... I can turn your 12 minute video into 2 or 3 minutes of useful information. I really don't have the time to spend 12 minutes on 2 or 3 minutes of information. If I youtubed for entertainment, your channel wouldn't be on my list. justsayin'
As others have said...you have the left hand drills in your set. I bought the same Hansen set with cobalt left hand drill bits from Enco about 5 years ago on sale for around $20. Excellent value for the money, unfortinately, Enco is no more, but MSC Industrial has taken over all the items from the catalog.
To be honest, I passed judgment on seeing shock and awe title....however, Watched, hit thumbs up, bought one on ebay and can say I learned something today. I have about 5 of these I can fix on various pieces of equipment. Thanks for uploading.
Easier than replacing tie rod ends, cheaper too. A left hand drill would probably have removed that zerk without the easy out. Good video Cody. When servicing forklifts I would wonder, don't these guys ever check the fluid levels.
Two things I would've done differently - three, if you count running the drill bit in the proper direction - first, start off using just an extractor in the hole that's already in that part of the zerk and see if that would get it out without drilling and introducing metal shavings, and second, use a smaller bit/extractor. That one he used looked bigger than it needed to be and dangerously close to the size of the threads.
Oh, and don't blow out the grease boots. Know when to stop pumping. Do those boots have intentional overflow holes in them, or was that from overfilling previously?
I worked for a contractor in Kansas City and went down state to pick up a 1 ton truck and backhoe from a jobsite that was shut down. Two of us went so one could drive the truck with the backhoe on it back. When we got the equipment to KC we found that the truck front end was worn out from lack of grease and it cost about $1500 to fix it..The backhoe joint was so worn from lack of grease the dealer had to cut the joint off the boom and weld on a new one along with other pin and bushing replacements to the tune of about 4500. There was only one person responsible for the equipment but for the lack and use of a $15 grease gun this damage occurred. In other words use a grease gun with grease it will prolong equipment life. This happened in 1973.
Great yard sale finds today. Stanley #4 Plane , Stanley 624 Hand drill, some drill bits, Old Pulaski head, an old axe head, and a Froe. All for $15. My lucky day for getting Wranglerstar recommended tools
That type of screw extractor are often misused by people who believe the "easy" part of the easy out name.Using the correct size and knowing when to stop is important. The tapered thread can wedge the part being removed tighter, and broken extractors cannot be drilled by normal equipment. The square tapered type of extractor cuts down on the wedging action. I have even had good luck using the square tang of a file on occasion,just be careful because of the brittleness.
why did you drill a hole in it? there was already on there
The most common use of an extractor is on bolts that have broken off and bolts don't have holes in them so the drill is used to make a starter hole for the extractor. In Cody's case he could have used just the extractor if one would fit the zerk hole.
You did get it out but before using the easy out I would've tried a small straight screw driver. Those grease zirks come out pretty easy especially with the low hours on your tractor. Drilling it out leaves allot of shavings inside.
Easy for me to criticise I wasn't there! I wish I lived near by I could have gave you a hand. Thanks for sharing.
Yanmar Ball joint grease zerts?, easy.
Broken rotex bolts under a oily log shovel... ? the worst...
Cool. Good Job Cody. Welcome to the "I Broke My" series. Episode 1. LOL Love you guys, God Bless.
Great video. Might be helpful to track down the size of those grease fittings - when you wander into your local NAPA, there are several different thread sizes to choose from (both standard and metric) - yeah yeah, the metric system blows
Cody, thank you for this video. I needed the reminder to 1. grease the tractor more regularly. 2. Check the fittings. 3. Have replacements on hand. 4. Have the tools to replace them. I needed this video as a reminder as we are still traveling to our property developing it......
Well that is exactly why you don't drill if you don't have to. He has a small easy out that he could have tapped into the zirk and backed out without the problems. Please us "kiss" only break out drill and bits as a last ditch effort. Before i get slammed i am a heavy equipment mechanic. The metal slivers created when drilling can really play heck on that rubber boot and tight tolerances of the ball joint. But great video cody all the same. That would have cost you at a shop not to mention hauling it there and back.
The EZ out fits in a tap handle.. As for the grease fittings, you can purchase an assortment in SAE or Metric at a local auto store in the "Help" section for just a few buck$. The set I bought about 20ish years ago still has a couple left.
Will you please do videos on your FRUIT TREES? What fruit trees you have, how to maximize there production, ect ect... THANKS!
You could have just use a left hand drill bit.
He did just not quite the right direction
Just for OCD purposes, you grease a pig, you lubricate machinery. This was explained to me when I was a trainee at a petroleum company by an instructor, and it's stayed with me almost 50 years later.
I should make a try with the small extractor first, in the the hole thats already there. It's often easy to remove when they break like this.
If that dosen't work, I would try my left hand drill, and the machine set to the same direction ;-)
Perhaps remove the wheel for better comfort and using a T-handle.
A trick I learned is putting a small piece of fuel line over the grease fitting. A thumbnail in length. They keep stuff from getting caught under the edge of the grease fitting and busting it off. Plus it keeps your grease fitting and little nicer. I will cut a dozen or so and keep in my grease box or toolbox. Yes sometimes you lose them but I have not gotten a grease fitting busted off yet. Stuff tends to glance off rather than catch.
All too often you'll see the grease squeezing out around the rubber cup. Although pushing in alot of new to replace the dirty grease is a good idea when it's already coming out at rubber cup, I believe the cups are not suppose to be over greased to point of releasing. I think they are to be filled just enough to to create a filled pressure so it constantly pushes the grease into joint during use. Sort of like the buddy bearing cap effect.
As far as the right hand rotation on the left handed bit, ya I saw it too but then who hasn't forgot and done that too. Great job Cody. Good for those who don't know about this sort of thing.
I remember years ago buying Craftsman ratcheting wrenches, they came in a Craftsman bag but the tools were labeled Buffalo! I'm just glade I never had a need to replace them on warranty. LOL
Some people may laugh, but you are absolutely right about equipment having personalities. Including how t hey start, how they run, what sound right and what doesn't. My Dad always taught me that you can never over grease or change the oil too many times on a machine.
Or.... pull the balljoint and then you can clean out the crud that surely dropped in... not to mention metal shavings from the drill which won't typically flush out when you overdo the grease.... and then put in the fitting and reinstall the ball joint and then fill the grease. Just saying.
I heard that clunk, and I went "Oh no!" but you got it to back out, thank goodness. Obviously there are worse things ( more expensive ) to screw up on that thing, but it's always nice when things end well.
Great job, but the viewers below are correct, that was a left hand drill bit. Wonderful info otherwise. I cant even rib you too much for the mistake, I have caught myself doing the same thing. Part of getting older.
In cases like these, you might want to try turning the broken thread with a tool, like a small screwdriver pressed into the opening or with a sharp pointed pick if there is enough material around the edge, to avoid drilling if at all possible.
In the airforce they are still called easyout. There are still good quality easyouts commercially available made in Germany.
Forget using the spiral type extractors and the Ridgid brand star rods. You drill to size, tap the star rod into place, insert the star nut over the rod and then use a wrench as close to the bottom as possible.
They don't shear off like the spiral rods do and are much easier to use. The kit also includes a bushing that fits over a broken stud allowing you to center drill unlike the spiral kit shown.
Try one and you'll never use you old set again, guaranteed.
My dad introduced me to PROTO pipe extractors. They are square with 4 straight "blades" on the corners that cut into the hole to extract whatever it is your are trying to remove. They grab way easier than the standard helical type easy-outs.
Arkansas Pilgrim Hanson also makes this type of easy-out. I believe they're called Straight flute extractors. Only kind Ill ever use.
''I BROKE MY TRACTOR''
you broke a grease zerk. its not the end of the world. in worst case scenario you'll replace the tie-rod
With a zert not usually being tight (or bottomed out) and hollow, most likely could have used the next size smaller and hand screwed it out.
Also they have square ones that would have fit right in with a slight tap. But good demo on if you have to drill.
Artarion- I broke one of those cheap Chinese extractors off in a headless broken bolt one time, even the machine shop couldn't get it out!
The other thing to about it being "your machine" is that when it breaks, you're out until its fixed. You are responsible for that bill, that problem, everything because no one else could be responsible for the damage.
When you already have hole in the broken fitting it is always worth checking if one of the extractors will work without having to drill the fitting out and dropping metal particles in the joint.
Also using pliers is a bit crude, better to use a spanner or a Tap wrench.
Try this: Next time you have a broken grease fitting, do not drill it, just use a smaller easy out. If all it does is enlarge the opening to the size you need, the material worn away will be drawn out from the counter clockwise motion of the easy out. Not gone down in like with the drill bit. It will keep the crud out of the bearing.
I used to work around tractors like this and my company took all the greese fittings out and put a plug into them and we used to freeze the equipment every 4 Friday you pulled plug put in freeze fitting greased and removed I as why that was and the Foss said the guys keep breaking off fittings and this was cheaper in long run
Cody, I love every thig you do and enjoy you and your family tremendously. However, the term is grease zerk, not zert. God Bless. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grease_fitting
$25 to get all the left handed drill bits in this set in cobalt at mcmaster-carr P/Ns 3474A11, 3474A12, 3474A14, 3474A17, 3474A19.
LOL. Its a tie Rod End. LOL. My tractor came with caps and not with grease fitting. You have to remove them and use a tip on the grease gun to injecte the grease inside the parts on the tractor. I paid money and replace all the caps with grease fitting. Yep. broke the ones on the tie ods end the first month that I had them. All the other grease fittings are ok after years of use. I put the caps back on the tie rods.
From the viewers perspective, you may have a hole in the rubber grease seal. It didnt look like it was coming out the "end", is why I say that. You might check that over closely
I was expecting this video to cover your latest facebook posts in regards to the expensive tractor & camera incidents.... Wait I shall.....
Cody how do you get the grease gun nipple to stay on the grease fitting, I know there are adjustments on the gun nozzle but at times certain locations, some fittings won't take grease and it just leaks out around the fitting then you tighten the nozzle and it won't fit on the next fitting and has to be moved back where it was, why does that happen, I think they are all same size grease fittings.
You're absolutely right about one guy operating a matching verses multiple fellas on one.
we've got one driver designated to a particular truck all the time. No slip seating or going to whatever's available for that run
as a mechanic....let me tell ya WRONG! with that nipples there is no need to drill, in fact drilling makes it worst metal parts coud end up inside! just use the extractor without drilling and all is fine
I just got some cool little Easy-Out's that have the tiny reverse drill bit built in to the tip of easy-out bit. So far works well for most applications. Grease is the word.
I've never seen clockwise drill bits in an easy out kit!! and usually you would put a wrench or a socket on the easy out each his own, I wouldn't recommend purchasing that kit.
Cody, a socket would be much better to install that Zerk fitting. You may have to use a deep socket. And happy Father's Day!
Well done! And thank-you for the Lucas Mill and tree planting videos, too.
Best wishes to you all andall, in The All.
For all,
John
Hi, love the videos :) I have a question for you. Whats the little black thingie next to your wristwatch? never saw one before and was just wondering.
When I saw the title of this one, I thought you had actually done something terrible to the tractor by accident. Loved the way you explained this. I had to learn this the hard way and really paid for it in the end, plus I hard to learn by doing how to use an extractor. That would have been nice to have watched someone do it and shown me the exact way to do it. Have a great week.