My experience with metalics is limited. Many years ago, the go-to was Rub-n-buff. I used that on a T-6, and was happy. Many years later, I discovered Alclad and wasn't happy when I sprayed it over gloss black. Recently, I tried AK Buffalo True Metal paste. It reminded me of the Rub-n-Buff and on a test achieved a very realistic aircraft aluminum finish. I think the struggle is we're often trying to achieve that perfect mirror chrome look. That's great for highly polished air show displays, but actual warplanes in the field displayed a nearly endless variance in bare metal tonal variety. Then you've got the weathering on top of that. For our purposes, the results you're getting are a fantastic "factory fresh" foundation that gives us a great foundation to achieve the realism for which we strive. Thanks for taking the time to teach us some new techniques. This video and the one prior have earned a subscription.
Hello Terry, I really liked your video called: 'Ep 2 EVEN BETTER NMF Bare Metal Finish than before. Mr. Color SM08 Plate Silver Next' but unfortunately this paint is now virtually impossible to get, plus it is discontinued by the manufacturer; I want to make a request of you and that is that you do an 'update' of this Ep2 and try the new paints called: Super Metallic 2 and do the same tests that you did with the SM08 with the colors SM201 (Super Fine Silver 2) and SM208 (Super Chrome Silver 2). First of all, Thanks!
Yeah that SM08 is a bugger to find. I ordered an SM204. I'm wondering if I can get a similar effect if I add more less pigment powder. But still highly buff out the plastic. Thanks for the tips. I saw a video of Molotow. And that stuff is indestructible. even with a top clear coat. And a chrome look. Wow! Use that car model chrome but not aircraft
I haven’t done a NMF yet, but durability would be my main desire. One thought I just had, instead of masking the finished metal to get variation in the panels would be to use different colors in the base coat for different panel colors.
Sorry for the late reply! Using different base color shades is definitely an option. But when I say "variance" I'm talking about the variations of "all" the metal. Think of it like the tiny changes/distortions/waving in the metal overall, like every inch. Think of it like this, shiny aluminum vs a clean mirror. Both reflect, but one is clearly metal while the other clearly glass.
Hello Terry from downunder thanks for your effort (subd btw), I read the paint instructions for these paints and they advise "To seal the paint finish, coat use Super Clear or Mr.Super Clear UV Cut (excluding SM206 and SM08)." I have two 1/48 B17s one will be done in standard green, the other I am considering to do in metallic finish. I am a Mr Hobby/Mr Color convert from Tamiya. Mr. Color SM08 Plate Silver Next AU$14.82 so I doubly appreciate your video! Anyway it will be a little time before I do the B17s thanks again.
Thanks for the kind words. Today I will be testing out any sealers. If I find any that do the job without sacrificing the shine I will make sure to let everybody know.
Hey Neil, an update. The Mr. Color Super Clear UV Cut totally subdued the sheen. Aquagloss was less offensive, but still took enough away to ruin the refelctivity. It still looked good, but only had 1/2 the reflective properties. On the plus side, the paint is very durable. I did a Tamiya tape test, doing everything that you are not supposed to do...worst case practices. A little of the pigments came up but the metal itself held well and a little spot pigment rubbing brought it back to where you could never tell there was tape there.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 Hey Terry and appreciate you doing that! WoW that is strange that Mr color advise to use it oh well glad we found out now rather than latter. I have Aquagloss but I find it binds up my AB ...probably user error...I will do some experiments my end. Cheers
The only exposure I have had to C130s and C123s have been either painted camouflages or grays, or at air museums where the paint was oxidized from exposure to the elements outside.
Gday Terry. Another convert from Australia here. I was very interested in your polishing technique but had a devil of a time finding the SM08. I managed to find a place in Canada yesterday, that have 8 bottles of the stuff, so I ordered 2. Ouch. $35 for shipping. A total of $66 Aussie dollars. Looking forward to building my RAAF VIP fleet, which is along the same lines of Air Force One and highly polished aluminium. My question is, 'If you advise not to seal the models, how do you apply the decals without the silvering effect being evident?' Keep the videos coming mate, they are very informative.
Silvering is just a matter of not having the surface prepared well enough for the decal. Even with a gloss, it’s possible to get silvering if air gets trapped under the decal. The surface of the airplane should be super smooth from the polishing before you put the metal on. And that should be smooth enough after the metal is applied to put a decal on. I have applied some letters to the P 47, as you can see in the other video. And there was no silvering whatsoever. It’s just a matter of having a well prepared surface, and gently rolling the bubbles out from underneath the decal after you apply it… which brings me to my next point, to have something under the decal to bind it to the surface, because the metal is very slick and doesn’t give the decal much to grab on to.
Muh-Gwy-Ers for the Love of Pete lol. Alclads will not fail you if you are looking to do bare metal planes such as the P47 or the P51 and later B-17's. Avoid the chrome as that's not the right look Polished aluminum is a great one as is Duraluminum. Use their gloss black base which is also a primer, do not use polish before spraying the metal as the chemicals in the polish will blurr and dull the metal finish. Use the Aquacoat klear when done with the metal color then weather to your liking and/or add decals.
Had a classmate waaaay back in high school (you know when the history books were only like 20 pages long), same spelling exactly, went by "Mag-Yar". So tomato tomahto I guess. Alclad is good in itself, but, as I'm an Alclad "veteran" so to speak, I find the pigments a butt hair too fine and so it is tough to get any depth or variance. Alclad seems best for people replicating museum or restored aircraft....the clean and shiny. But for something that you can tailor to look various stages of worn/oxidized/lived in, its just too one dimensional.
Quick question how would you handle the different “hues” in the metal. For example a f-86 even as shiny as it is you can still see different tones in the bare metal on the wings and leading edges of that plane. Would you try with the varying the under colors or would you mask the panels and go over top before the pigment rub. Also just to mess with you more how would you handle dull panels mixed in with nice super shiny ones. I have a Sabb j-29 Tunnan and it looks like a quilt of shiny, dull and mixes tones of metal and I’m kinda stuck trying to figure out a way that will hold up to handling to get the finish. Thanks sorry this is so long but you seem to have a good grasp on BMF.
Hi Frank. For an F86, I would not be too opposed to a light handbrushing of Aquagloss over it (I never can get it to airbrush right for me---I need more practice). That will give it a little depth to the look and lose "just enough" of the ultrashine to look right for an F86. That Saab now, oh boy. It reminds me of a couple old Migs at a local airport by me (a 15 and a 21). They have about 7 or 8 different tonal qualities and they don't "move" when you change directional points of view. They actually are different looking types of metals (no doubt some are). For these it would not be a terrible idea to either tint with a compatible clear like Mr. Hobby if the metal is a lacquer or Tamiya clear colors mixed with some MLT or MRT. I find it too difficult to dress the metal after application. WHat I most often do is vary the base tome beneath the metal (using various mixtures of Smoke Clear and Black or even Smoke Clear and dark blues or tans---the big thing is ultra shiny BASE before the metal). The possibilities are endless, and the experimenting is fun. By varying the base beneath the metal, you can get the tonal variety you want without having to mask off and paint different colors of metal. ir an F86, I would not be too opposed to a light handbrushing of Aquagloss over it (I never can get it to airbrush right for me---I need more practice). That will give it a little depth to the look and lose "just enough" of the ultrashine to look right for an F86. That Saab now, oh boy. It reminds me of a couple old Migs at a local airport by me (a 15 and a 21). They have about 7 or 8 different tonal qualities and they don't "move" when you change directional points of view. They actually are different looking types of metals (no doubt some are). For these it would not be a terrible idea to either tint with a compatible clear like Mr. Hobby if the metal is a lacquer or Tamiya clear colors mixed with some MLT or MRT. I find it too difficult to dress the metal after application. WHat I most often do is vary the base tome beneath the metal (using various mixtures of Smoke Clear and Black or even Smoke Clear and dark blues or tans---the big thing is ultra shiny BASE before the metal). The possibilities are endless, and the experimenting is fun. By varying the base beneath the metal, you can get the tonal variety you want without having to mask off and paint different colors of metal.
Hey Terry, E7 paint is made in Japan(?)/Asia. It is available at Gundam USA, who also carry some very interesting paints. Worth looking at their website. Living in the Phoenix area, I understand the work-arounds we have to do to deal with the dust and heat. I just subscribed to your channel. Cheers
Haven’t seen any of your videos yet but I was quite disappointed with your comments about the red hair on the box you received! They were very misogynistic and frankly demeaning towards the people who had handled the packaging! Very disrespectful and unprofessional! 👿
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [2/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qJbQs_nhjD4/mqdefault.jpg)
Interesting!
I'll be checking out for the next episode.
To hear about the durability and maybe decal application...
Thank you!
My experience with metalics is limited. Many years ago, the go-to was Rub-n-buff. I used that on a T-6, and was happy. Many years later, I discovered Alclad and wasn't happy when I sprayed it over gloss black. Recently, I tried AK Buffalo True Metal paste. It reminded me of the Rub-n-Buff and on a test achieved a very realistic aircraft aluminum finish. I think the struggle is we're often trying to achieve that perfect mirror chrome look. That's great for highly polished air show displays, but actual warplanes in the field displayed a nearly endless variance in bare metal tonal variety. Then you've got the weathering on top of that. For our purposes, the results you're getting are a fantastic "factory fresh" foundation that gives us a great foundation to achieve the realism for which we strive. Thanks for taking the time to teach us some new techniques. This video and the one prior have earned a subscription.
Its very much appreciated!
The result at the end was spectacular IMO mate, have not seen anyone on youtube too memory that has being able to pull that off.
Enjoy your lessons will add to my go to learning library thanks from a son of a United States Marine the best dam Dad ever!
I try, that's all we can do.
Hello Terry, I really liked your video called: 'Ep 2 EVEN BETTER NMF Bare Metal Finish than before. Mr. Color SM08 Plate Silver Next' but unfortunately this paint is now virtually impossible to get, plus it is discontinued by the manufacturer; I want to make a request of you and that is that you do an 'update' of this Ep2 and try the new paints called: Super Metallic 2 and do the same tests that you did with the SM08 with the colors SM201 (Super Fine Silver 2) and SM208 (Super Chrome Silver 2).
First of all, Thanks!
Yeah that SM08 is a bugger to find. I ordered an SM204. I'm wondering if I can get a similar effect if I add more less pigment powder. But still highly buff out the plastic. Thanks for the tips. I saw a video of Molotow. And that stuff is indestructible. even with a top clear coat. And a chrome look. Wow! Use that car model chrome but not aircraft
"Or a damn Hippie" LOL
I haven’t done a NMF yet, but durability would be my main desire. One thought I just had, instead of masking the finished metal to get variation in the panels would be to use different colors in the base coat for different panel colors.
Sorry for the late reply! Using different base color shades is definitely an option. But when I say "variance" I'm talking about the variations of "all" the metal. Think of it like the tiny changes/distortions/waving in the metal overall, like every inch. Think of it like this, shiny aluminum vs a clean mirror. Both reflect, but one is clearly metal while the other clearly glass.
Hello Terry from downunder thanks for your effort (subd btw), I read the paint instructions for these paints and they advise "To seal the paint finish, coat use Super Clear or Mr.Super Clear UV Cut (excluding SM206 and SM08)." I have two 1/48 B17s one will be done in standard green, the other I am considering to do in metallic finish. I am a Mr Hobby/Mr Color convert from Tamiya. Mr. Color SM08 Plate Silver Next AU$14.82 so I doubly appreciate your video! Anyway it will be a little time before I do the B17s thanks again.
Thanks for the kind words. Today I will be testing out any sealers. If I find any that do the job without sacrificing the shine I will make sure to let everybody know.
Hey Neil, an update. The Mr. Color Super Clear UV Cut totally subdued the sheen. Aquagloss was less offensive, but still took enough away to ruin the refelctivity. It still looked good, but only had 1/2 the reflective properties. On the plus side, the paint is very durable. I did a Tamiya tape test, doing everything that you are not supposed to do...worst case practices. A little of the pigments came up but the metal itself held well and a little spot pigment rubbing brought it back to where you could never tell there was tape there.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 Hey Terry and appreciate you doing that! WoW that is strange that Mr color advise to use it oh well glad we found out now rather than latter. I have Aquagloss but I find it binds up my AB ...probably user error...I will do some experiments my end. Cheers
Hello! Thank you for your videos, they are very helpful. Tell me how do you get that super glossy black base coat? With all the steps please
Its a very long process to type out, but stay tuned as I'll be putting a video out before long on the various metal bases.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 Great! thanks! :)
Must buy tamiya polishing compound....Have sabre F86 in stash,,,,,
James, question for you. Are transport aircraft such as C-123 and C-130, is the color silver or gray color. Thank you in advance Ray
The only exposure I have had to C130s and C123s have been either painted camouflages or grays, or at air museums where the paint was oxidized from exposure to the elements outside.
Gday Terry. Another convert from Australia here. I was very interested in your polishing technique but had a devil of a time finding the SM08. I managed to find a place in Canada yesterday, that have 8 bottles of the stuff, so I ordered 2. Ouch. $35 for shipping. A total of $66 Aussie dollars. Looking forward to building my RAAF VIP fleet, which is along the same lines of Air Force One and highly polished aluminium. My question is, 'If you advise not to seal the models, how do you apply the decals without the silvering effect being evident?' Keep the videos coming mate, they are very informative.
Silvering is just a matter of not having the surface prepared well enough for the decal. Even with a gloss, it’s possible to get silvering if air gets trapped under the decal. The surface of the airplane should be super smooth from the polishing before you put the metal on. And that should be smooth enough after the metal is applied to put a decal on. I have applied some letters to the P 47, as you can see in the other video. And there was no silvering whatsoever. It’s just a matter of having a well prepared surface, and gently rolling the bubbles out from underneath the decal after you apply it… which brings me to my next point, to have something under the decal to bind it to the surface, because the metal is very slick and doesn’t give the decal much to grab on to.
Muh-Gwy-Ers for the Love of Pete lol.
Alclads will not fail you if you are looking to do bare metal planes such as the P47 or the P51 and later B-17's. Avoid the chrome as that's not the right look Polished aluminum is a great one as is Duraluminum. Use their gloss black base which is also a primer, do not use polish before spraying the metal as the chemicals in the polish will blurr and dull the metal finish. Use the Aquacoat klear when done with the metal color then weather to your liking and/or add decals.
Had a classmate waaaay back in high school (you know when the history books were only like 20 pages long), same spelling exactly, went by "Mag-Yar". So tomato tomahto I guess.
Alclad is good in itself, but, as I'm an Alclad "veteran" so to speak, I find the pigments a butt hair too fine and so it is tough to get any depth or variance. Alclad seems best for people replicating museum or restored aircraft....the clean and shiny. But for something that you can tailor to look various stages of worn/oxidized/lived in, its just too one dimensional.
Quick question how would you handle the different “hues” in the metal. For example a f-86 even as shiny as it is you can still see different tones in the bare metal on the wings and leading edges of that plane. Would you try with the varying the under colors or would you mask the panels and go over top before the pigment rub. Also just to mess with you more how would you handle dull panels mixed in with nice super shiny ones. I have a Sabb j-29 Tunnan and it looks like a quilt of shiny, dull and mixes tones of metal and I’m kinda stuck trying to figure out a way that will hold up to handling to get the finish. Thanks sorry this is so long but you seem to have a good grasp on BMF.
Hi Frank.
For an F86, I would not be too opposed to a light handbrushing of Aquagloss over it (I never can get it to airbrush right for me---I need more practice). That will give it a little depth to the look and lose "just enough" of the ultrashine to look right for an F86.
That Saab now, oh boy. It reminds me of a couple old Migs at a local airport by me (a 15 and a 21). They have about 7 or 8 different tonal qualities and they don't "move" when you change directional points of view. They actually are different looking types of metals (no doubt some are). For these it would not be a terrible idea to either tint with a compatible clear like Mr. Hobby if the metal is a lacquer or Tamiya clear colors mixed with some MLT or MRT. I find it too difficult to dress the metal after application. WHat I most often do is vary the base tome beneath the metal (using various mixtures of Smoke Clear and Black or even Smoke Clear and dark blues or tans---the big thing is ultra shiny BASE before the metal). The possibilities are endless, and the experimenting is fun. By varying the base beneath the metal, you can get the tonal variety you want without having to mask off and paint different colors of metal.
ir an F86, I would not be too opposed to a light handbrushing of Aquagloss over it (I never can get it to airbrush right for me---I need more practice). That will give it a little depth to the look and lose "just enough" of the ultrashine to look right for an F86.
That Saab now, oh boy. It reminds me of a couple old Migs at a local airport by me (a 15 and a 21). They have about 7 or 8 different tonal qualities and they don't "move" when you change directional points of view. They actually are different looking types of metals (no doubt some are). For these it would not be a terrible idea to either tint with a compatible clear like Mr. Hobby if the metal is a lacquer or Tamiya clear colors mixed with some MLT or MRT. I find it too difficult to dress the metal after application. WHat I most often do is vary the base tome beneath the metal (using various mixtures of Smoke Clear and Black or even Smoke Clear and dark blues or tans---the big thing is ultra shiny BASE before the metal). The possibilities are endless, and the experimenting is fun. By varying the base beneath the metal, you can get the tonal variety you want without having to mask off and paint different colors of metal.
The E7 chrome sealer is the best on the market.
Never heard of it, who makes it?
Hey Terry, E7 paint is made in Japan(?)/Asia. It is available at Gundam USA, who also carry some very interesting paints. Worth looking at their website. Living in the Phoenix area, I understand the work-arounds we have to do to deal with the dust and heat. I just subscribed to your channel. Cheers
Yep e7 is the best sealer i have used, but also tamiya enamel clear works equally as good. Try it and you will be surprised!
Canada Post eh?
Not until you guys get your idea of bacon straightened out LOL
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 im Canadian...i know my bacon😁
Haven’t seen any of your videos yet but I was quite disappointed with your comments about the red hair on the box you received! They were very misogynistic and frankly demeaning towards the people who had handled the packaging! Very disrespectful and unprofessional! 👿