HOW To Create a Natural Metal Finish using foil. PART 1 Airfix Spitfire MKIX 1/24th scale
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
- This is a detailed step by step process on how I use foil to create a realistic natural metal finish on model aircraft. This is part one on foil a simple shape. Part two to follow explaining how to tackle more complex shapes. Any questions please mail me at richardseekins@ymail.com
Part 2 complex shapes • HOW to create a a Natu...
Foil adhesive www.microscale.com/Merchant2/m...
Sculpting tools
www.amazon.co.uk/Polymer-Scul...
Amazon www.amazon.co.uk/MicroScale-I...
Cape cod polishing cloths www.amazon.co.uk/Cape-Metal-P...
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That’s incredible!
I guess there’s no better way to replicate polished aluminum than Polished Aluminum!
Thanks. Yes that's my way of looking at it. Keep an eye out for the next video where I foil the whole fuselage. It really starts to pop then.
Aerospace engineer here: I haven't seen your channel before, but mate that is some serious skill.
I barely know what to say to what your doing.
Its moments like these that show how fantastic social media can be when people are using it to show and educate others things they might not normally know about.
Thank's Tony. This is very encouraging 😀it’s why I started this Channel. To share ideas and learn from each other 👍
@@RichardsModellingAdventures No probs mate.
Its channels like yours that have helped keep me sane the last few years. 🫡😃😃😀😀
That is so freaking cool man, it looks better than an actual plane!
Thanks 🙏 If you like this, wait till you see the whole Spitfire done like this 😀
I don't do models , haven't since I was a kid. Just got into building watches via Ali Express parts and watching this has got me wondering about doing a watch dial with this method. Things we do. Lol.
That will look cool
Great tutorial, Richard, thank you. I'm definitely interested in a part 2 with more complex surfaces.
Great stuff. I’ll get to work on it as soon as I can 👍
Oh man, well done! cant wait for part 2
Thanks. There is a part 2, link in the description 😀
@@RichardsModellingAdventures Roger that! Thank you
A modeller who loves Motorcycles, that's got my sub. Excellent tips, by the way, thank you for posting.
Yes I started back into this hobby building motorcycle kits. I learned a lot from the fine detail and perfect paint finish that kids of modelling demands. Thanks for the kind words 👍
Great Tutorial. I found out, that if you burnish this too hard and to long the foil will eventualy come loose again, so dont overdoe it. And you are totaly right, for this one needs a lot of patience, but the outcome is well worth it.
Great tip! It does indeed detached if overdone
I can't wait to try this on my gunpla model kits ...thank you sooo much for this information
You’re very welcome 👍
Video really appreciated looking forward to seeing the next. I'm going to try it on a Revell P51 thanks 👍also now building a Airfix Spitfire 1/24 and using all your great tip along the way.
I really pleased my top tips are helping you out on the Spitfire build 😀the Revell Mustang is a good build, watch out for the front canopy fit as it’s a bit of a challenge to get right and the wing roots need a lot of care to get flush
Great Tutorial Richard. Completely agree with your Statements about patience, It's a key component of success with this Technique. I'm looking forward to seeing how you deal with more complex surfaces. In regard to how you apply the glue to the foil, a word of caution if I may. I used the same procedure when I started out, as per the instructions on the bottle, but over time I found I was finding contaminants under the foil even though I had cleaned the surface thoroughly ! For the life of me I couldn't work out what the problem was, to the point of ,after a couple of very disappointing results, giving up on the technique ! I eventually realised that even though I thought I was cleaning the brush thoroughly between applications, small particles of dried glue still remained in the brush, which then contaminated the bottle when I next dipped the brush in the bottle. Just something to be aware of.
🍻
Great tip on the contamination Dean. I have found if I clean the brush in IPA thoroughly it's no longer a problem, however if the bottle is compromised it's better to dispose of it.
Great work! What a brilliant idea! Thanks!
Oh and btw I do think the spitfire is one of the most beautiful planes ever created!
Indeed it is!
Feckin awsome I’ve had mine since last spring yet to build it this is food for thought thanks have subbed for your great content 😊
Thanks of the Sub 🙏Lots of video content to come on this Spitfire build.
Very cool tutorial show how to harder shapes 🤘 on
Thanks Neal. Check out my other videos, there are quite a few showing more complex shapes 👍
Sees IPA, thinks India Pale Ale... Glad that got cleared up quickly!
If India pale ale worked that would be a Bonus 🤪
Great content you put on TH-cam. I dont build myself but I love to watch ans learn. Keep it up😊 cheers from Norway
Awesome 😀
The memories!
I had forgotten about trying this when I started making models as a kid, using chewing gum wrappers and (I think) xanthan gum. Never got results like this!
Another vote to see a part two)
On its way very soon. Made me laugh about the Chewing gum wrappers as I used to do the same :)
I really need to try this method!
Have fun 😀
That cape cod polishing cloth you used for the final polish looks very like silvo wadding - the silver polish in the same range as brasso. Might be worth a look.
Thanks I’ll have a look 👍
Looks interesting!
Nice job! I've used that polishing cloth in the tin before, but on brass. I noticed it leaves a residue that can attract oxidation. If you wipe it down with a soapy water, the metal stays shiny longer. Car wax helps too!
Thanks for tip 🙏
Yep. I don't do model - but some time ago, for fun, I took my brass Zippo lighter - which turns tarnished/black from oxydation pretty quickly.; gave it a good cleaning and shine (looked like new) - then as an experiment i applied a little car wax to it (believe it was some "Carnuba/Hard wax") - and this has kept the brass from re-oxidizing for some time! I believe this would work on foils such as seen in this video as well.
Excellent, thanks very much.
You're very welcome
This is impressive, Its time consuming for sure; but the results speak for themself.
Thank you 👍
This is massive! I am definitely not going to try that, but the technique is super impressive
Have fun 👍and watch part 2 😀
@@RichardsModellingAdventures I will for sure
Really interesting Richard. I'll have to buy a cheap larger scale kit to try this on.
For sure as it does take practice. I am considering an in flight 1/48th scale jet to see how that looks.
I been wanting to try this for 40 years. :)
Go for it 👍😀
I do rebuilds of Dinky cars and use the self adhesive aluminum foil tape for the chrome trim on the sides of cars. I also strip, wash and clean my collection of 1/24 and 1/18 model cars. I use 70% rubbing alcohol applied with tissue paper. My main tip is FLEECE!!!! Don't know if you have tried this but wow, what an amazing buffing material. Old fleece top is good but a fleece 'throw' blanket is really soft and great. I am going to use the foil tape and try a 'wrap' of one of my Dinky Cars or get a model DeLorean to try it on. I wonder how well that Solar Film would do as a 'wrap' too, especially as you can shrink fit with heat. Hmmmm? There's a couple of projects for me to try.
I will try fleece for sure. I don’t always want a super shiny result but when I do il give it a go. I doubt solar film will bind to a metal car though. Maybe try vinyl wraps they use on cars?
Incredible. I am definitely going to give this a go even though it's bound to fail miserably 😂
Thanks. It's all about practice and patience. give it a go. Check out part two before you start
Awesome Awesome Awesome . i have ordered the foil glue already..
Awesome. Watch part 2 as well for more tips
Hey, for my models cars. I use spray glue: spray mouth 3M
I did something similar recently, with a large chicken.
How did you keep it still? 😂
Try Bare Metal Foil, much thinner and glue loaded. I made loads of car chromed bumpers in 1/24 scale using it.
Did you try it on large aircraft with lots of compound curves?
@@RichardsModellingAdventures no, because I don't build them. I have seen Mustang in larger scale (1/32 ?) on the exibition done with it thought.
Interesting technique. A few things to consider;
For the 'difficult' complex multi high crowned pieces try softening (annealing) the Al foil by heat treating in an oven. It's thin, so around 240C for 1/2 hour will do.
The high polish looks great,but it's far from authentic finish on aircraft grade sheetmetal.... especially 'war production' stuff. Perhaps finer grade sanding pad (>4000) to start with will reduce the amount of compound polishing needed to get it closer to finished authentic.
Aircraft were made using different thickness sheetmetal - thicker where structural strength was needed. The different thickness materials had different finishes. You see this in 1940's images of B29 bombers, where distinct colour variations presented, especially noticeable along areas of the fuselage. Thicker sheets appeared duller - Polish the different areas accordingly.
The 'shiny' and 'dull' side of foil comes from the way it is rolled thin during production - Two sheets are rolled at the same time.. the 'dull' side is where the two sheets touched each other passing through roll forming. Likewise, because it has been rolled the foil has a grain that may affect the compliance around curved surfaces. Obviously, the grain runs straight down the 'long' length of the sheet and it affects how malleable it is in that direction. Try marking the grain direction on your small working sheets to keep that compliance around complex crowned areas consistent.
Good luck with that.
Indeed. The super glossy look is for current aircraft. Check out G-IRTY or any polished P51. Wartime examples can be done in many ways to get the look you describe. Another video to come at some point on that one. Thanks for the input. PS check out part two :)
I was going to mention the 4000 grit paper but also, perhaps use the paper towels for the initial polishing but then move to the soft cloth for the final polishes. I feel like you may be scratching the surface when you clean off the polish with the paper towel. I wish I knew about this when I was younger and had the time to make models.
@@jasone3166 The Tamiya Sanding pads i use are 2000 to 3000 grit but well used on something else first. I have found foil quite forgiving and can be sanded and polished many times. Thanks for the input.
Out of interest I did stick a bit of foil in the over at 240C for 40 mins. It made no difference at all, which is a shame. Doing a google, regardless of how thin it is, aluminium anneals between 298 and 410C so a domestic oven isn't hot enough. The only way I have managed to soften it is with a blowtorch but it's very unpredictable as it can deform.
I think I will stick with nickel plating. It's fairly easy, but you have to spray the part with a conductive paint first. Then you can plate it and polish it. But it's a cool idea to use that aluminum tape.
Do what works for you. Thanks for the input. PS how do you nickel plate a part like a fuselage that has other parts connected to it like a cockpit etc? It sounds fascinating. have you got any examples?
My first thought was to just electroless plate the thing. That solves the compound curve and inside corner problems that are inherent to foiling. Once a conductive layer is in place, typically nickel, various metals can be electroplated over the base layer. You can still spend as much time as you like fiddling with abrasives to get the exact luster and grain you want as a final step.
If my reasoning is correct, this could be done with basically any metal foil that is thin enough, respectivly to the said metal's ductility, yes?
I'm thinking some awfully thin copper sheats going on phones, lighters, knife handles, basically everything I can get a hold on.
I guess anything would work if it was thin enough. I have my eye on some titanium tape but it’s very expensive. You can buy self adhesive copper tape used as slug replant. I do t have much use for it but you may find it useful
Great tutorial, Richard. You are so right about being patient. Would using a soft polishing wheel / buffing wheel on a small Dremel be possible or would it create too much heat? Please do a Part 2.
So glad its helpful. I reckon it's worth a try, but as you say take it steady to avoid heat. Consider a high polish is quite easy when the model is new, when you add paint and decals and fragile parts it gets a bit more tricky. Part two on it's way very soon
@@RichardsModellingAdventures Thanks Richard. Very much looking forward to your next installment.
You can use metal leaf . It is designed for the purpose and is low cost. Even gold leaf costs less than you would expect.
I have used Gold leaf on art work. It looks good but I found it rather fragile and difficult to apply in a uniform even way. It also gets everywhere. It would great to know how you have used it in model making though 😀👍
Love ths effect...now what can I do this to on a wargames mini?!... I think I see some very shiny power armour in my future, once you have shown how to do complex shapes of course 😊
check out part 2 :)
What a great technique. I will apply that to the inside of a lamp shade I use when modeling. Many thanks for the info! What glue do you recomend?
I recommend some LED lights from Amazon, however the adhesive used is in the video description 👍
@@RichardsModellingAdventures I have a LED light mounted on a stand that I want to 3D print a shade for to reduce spill. I'll print it in black, but I thought this technique might work well for the inside surface. If it works well I might try in other lighting applications. That glue looks very specific. I'm sure it does a fantastic job for modeling. I wonder how it would go with slight to moderate heat?
How do you stop the eventual oxidisation and surface dulling so common to alloy surfaces.?
It depends on the model. Some suit that process anyway, however with care you can polish it just like any metal. On the Spitfire I’m doing now I want it to age and dull over time 👍
I think you maybe easier to use gold leaf guiding, you can get other colours than gold. silver, copper even matalic blues reds, greens ect.
I do it a lot on my mintures bases for lead characters, but have full gilded mintures to give them real metal look.
I tried leaf metals but they were too fragile and impossible to dull down or mask. Foil gives you a much wider opportunity to vary the look and is way more durable. I really depends on the type of model. Leaf metals will be great for miniatures and for sure easier to apply.
@@RichardsModellingAdventures ahh intresting. I've not tried dulling it but sounds like you've tried it, just thought it may have the same effect without the hassle.
do you need to prime you ship before starting the BMF?
Is that standard kitchen foil, or some other material?
Lastly... where did you get that burnishing tool?
i am REALLY interested in trying this... i have a couple great test mules
GREAT video... thanks for sharing your knowledge!
It works better without primer. It’s just good quality kitchen foil. Check out clay sculpting tools on Amazon for the stick 👍
@@RichardsModellingAdventures thanks for the info!
one last question... how do you get your foil to be so damn flat and pristine before adding glue?
Thank you Richard- Is there may any indication on what is the micron size on the foil? in my country they call it " Heavy Duty" but looks and sounds much thinner then the one's you using
Great Video - Burning to try this on 1/32 P-47D
I’ll measure a bit when I’m home and get back to you this evening 👍
Just measured the foil. It's 0.01mm or 10 microns
@@RichardsModellingAdventures Thank you. you defintly have much better stuff that side of the pond. tried 18 micron stuff this side and its not nearly the same. will have a look for alternitives this side
I have some model cars that I haven’t touched yet… thinking about this as the finish
Give it a go 👍😀
What do you do to blend one piece to another so theres no uglt seem lines.
I foil up to a natural panel line
You can get self adhesive aluminium tape used for ducting, I'm going to give it a go
It's too soft and thick to cover a whole model with but its good to practice with
I think the next advance in model planes would be to mould the airframe only and the aluminium skin is applied over. This would look much more realistic.
You can already do this but at a much larger scale
solarfilm and solar tex.. memories!
Deffo 👍I only wish foil behaved in the same way. Shrinking and stretching would be amazing😀
Great video, any cheaper glue to use, thx Graham
The only alternative I found was to use Polyurethane varnish ( gloss) on both the foil and the model. Let both dry to a tacky feel and apply the foil as usual. Basically the varnish behaves like contact adhesive. Experimentation is the way forward.
@@RichardsModellingAdventures thx mate
Wow!
Thanks 🙏
The IPA dulls the finish because it reacts with the aluminum to make Aluminium isopropoxide
That’s easy for you to say 😀
I've an F-86 to make which I've put off because I really never liked metallic paints. With some practice, this moght be the solution.
An F86 is an ideal subject for this 👍😀
That Cape Cod stuff looks like Duraglit which also smelled ace.
Your vid has got me twitching to do either a BAE Lightning or MIG 15.
Great to hear it’s inspired you to have a go 👍😀Duraglit is like Brasso soaked in wadding, cape cod is quite different in both smell and how it looks. It’s like a pink colour and smells like ladies perfume. Duraglit will do the job really well too, I’ll give it a try. I’ll be doing an EE lightning for sure 👍
There is a chrome polished called Autosol trt that.
Yes I use it on my motorcycles. It does work well. Most metal polish works great
just casually here by the algorithm.. "if you don't have the patience to watch the full video you don't have the patience to do this" look at the time:52 minutes. you are right man. bye.
Thank you for your 30 second contribution to the Watch hours 👍
You don't what you have missed - amazing.
Al did bring me here, but I enjoying it. I thinking use this technique in something different. But I need a cheaper glue
@@RichardsModellingAdventures i will come back and give you your 51:30 sr
You sir, won't ever be a blade Smith
Dude! sorry? you just gave me some ideas! like a flood! for heat treating, bluing, passivations, casehardnings, and electro plating? with some changes in priority or procedure.
THANK YOU Sr!
Yes indeed you can manipulate and colour foil. Sticking it in the oven etc but it’s way beyond this video. Glad it’s got you all inspired to experiment 👍😀
Would aluminum tape not have worked as well?
I have found it to be too thick and soft. It can work for some parts but not a whole airframe
Better use rounded knife blades will not tear the stuff as fast as straight knife blades
Do what works for you 👍
What glue is it😢? I missed that bit
Details on the description 👍micro scale foil adhesive
@@RichardsModellingAdventures I'm in se asia, so can't find that exactly, is there any other description for the glue? Application description?
@@richardjohnholdenra3492 there is an Amazon link in the description
I find Autosol is great on anything metal.
Yup just about any metal polish will work. I use Autosol on my motorcycle 👍
I lernt sum ting 2 day
Fun vid, but try not to make that T noise too often.
I'm still working on the sound. TH-cam is a steep learning curve to start with. I can't do much about my accent or "just how I am" though
@@RichardsModellingAdventures that’s fair, i mean i was watching it while i was just awake. At that time i have really sensitive hearing. Also partially my fault. But again as i said fun fid to watch