Hi Grant, that was a great analysis over the saw, especially the details. Appreciate you checking the blade parallelism at the beginning. An update on my experience with DeWALT factory service: they actually agreed to fix the saw for free upon inspection by a technician. What they actually ended up doing was replacing the ENTIRE shoe, and even the bevel adjustment part I think. The end result is that the blade is nearly 100% parallel (0.15mm difference measured) Surprisingly, they told me to from now on, store the saw on something that allows it to sit flat as opposed to resting on its blade guard, e.g. placing the saw on 2x lumbers so the blade guard isn't in contact with anything. Wonder if this is really what caused the 1mm problem but I'll follow their advice for my own good.
In my opinion, I don't think resting it on the blade guard would cause and damage, If it was such a bad practice, it would have been included in the instructions in the tools user manual, but as you say, probably best to follow their advice, especially since they were willing to help with the repair. It's nice to hear that the service centre were willing to help and didn't try send you packing.
Thanks Burton the issue I am having is the saw blade stopped turning, the motor runs for a few seconds and then shuts off, I here a grinding noise, then the saw shuts down. Sounds like a gear issue. I saw on the video where the blade arbor and the one gear is removed. I noticed a smaller gear that must be the drive. How do you access that piece. I have yet to tear into the tool, but wanted to ask before i do.
Hi Robert, by what you describe, it does sound like a gear issue, and luckily easy to inspect without a full teardown. I'm not 100% sure about the pinion removal but by the looks of things, it comes out from the back along with the rotor - it's pressed onto the rotor shaft. I would have to tear it down completely again and have a look to be sure. (it's the second time somebody has asked.. haha) Let us know what you find once you've had a look.
I bought one of these yesterday and I got 3 or 4 cuts and it stopped working , only had it 20mins! Very very light work cutting plywood sheets! Tried 3 or 4 battery’s and same thing happened! Blade spins with a grinding noise for a couple seconds and stops! So it’s back to the shop where I purchased, either a replacement or refund , playing it by ear!
Hi Daniel, thats not good... super irritating when you buy a new premium product and it stops working so soon. Touch wood, mine is still working well. Please let us know how your replacement / refund went?
thx for the teardown ... just picked one of these out of a rubbish bin and it looks new as no wear on the plate. No battery, missing a blade clamp/bolt but doesn't work. Your teardown gave me some ideas for where to look for the problem. The light works and the spindle spins and stops. Might need a replacement switch rather than the whole motor mechanism. This seems to be as a single unit that is more than the cost of the new saw !! your IDing of the switch is really helpful asI am sure it can be replaced !! thx again ... Stu
Awesome find... hopefully you are able to get it to work again, if not then I suppose keep it around for spare parts. Could probably find a replacement switch but just taking a guess, I don't think that is the problem. Maybe have a look at the wiring connecting onto the motor, especially the hall sensor wires (those would be the thinner wires - ribbon cable). A break / dry joint in one of the hall sensor wires could be causing the controller not to know the position of the rotor and thus unable to start rotation. If it's a failure in the speed control then it likely can't be repaired. Let us know what you end up finding.
after i finished mechanic school, i worked at the school briefly as a teacher's aid, and i got to talk to a Bosch engineer who was at the school as a guest speaker, and i asked him why everything is being made from plastic lately, he said , there are a million different formulas for plastic , the ones they use for (reputable companies ) tools are impact resistant, lighter, and good for absorbing torque, so they will twist , and deflect, momentarily , and go back to their molded shape better than metals, he said if you were to drop an all metal chasis drill gun to the ground , it would probably crack , or dent really bad, but plastic usually won't,,, so the moral of the story is that plastic isn't always just a cheap substitute , it is often prefered, , another plus is , it can easily be molded into any shape that would be very cost prohibitive to the average consumer , so it has made previously unobtainable tools available to the DIY'er , so we should celebrate the advancment of plastics
Hi Ronn, thanks for the feedback. I was actually looking at my vehicles radiator a few days ago (Toyota Hilux pickup) and the top and bottom tanks are made of Glass fibre reinforced nylon (PA66 GF30) which is similar to what our power tool casings are made of... pretty strong stuff. My thoughts are that gearboxes and stuff that houses running gear sets should be as rigid as possible (metal casings) to avoid any deformation under load while tool casings being reinforced nylon is probably best (for that impact resistance you mentioned)... but that is a very good point about cost and accessibility for DIY’ers. I’m actually working on a video about tension, impact and hardness testing and it was interesting to see how strong BMS vs Aluminium vs Carbon Fibre vs plain old Perspex is in tension. I guess we need to start becoming more accepting of technological advances in ‘plastic’ strength and design. It’s just that many ‘old school’ things were built to last and that’s what I like to see.
On my well-used DCS570 I now have a problem where the saw starts up for about a second then stops dead. I understand this could be the motor starter capacitor, which I don't think was specifically mentioned in the video? (the small black barrel mounted on a tiny circuit board and attached to the motor by loose cables). Looks like it could be a fairly standard 50V 470uF capacitor so I'm hoping I can replace it. Shame to throw away a handy saw for such a tiny component.
En el minuto 12:05 el pequeño condensador de bloqueo que mencionas cada vez que aprieto el gatillo se calienta junto con su cable eso es normal? porque cada vez que aprieto el gatillo se calienta más y más. Eso lo noté cuando intenté prenderlo y el cable que alimenta el condensador daba un salto, temblaba cada vez que apretaba el gatillo y fue ahí que note lo caliente que estaba como su cable.
I have one of these and after about a year of use in my Handyman business, it just stopped working. I made a long cut, it did great and didn't really struggle but the next time I picked it up, nothing. I've tried different batteries and did get it to make a rotation or two a couple of times while repeatedly pulling the trigger. Now it won't even do that. This seems to be a common problem with this model and I can't find any information on what it might be or if there is a fix for it. Any Ideas or information would be appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Michael, thats pretty crap dude, super irritating to have fairly new and expensive tools give problems. I haven't experienced that problem yet but as time goes by, I'm hearing of it more and more. Just a thought... have you tried opening up the switch and blowing it out with compressed air? maybe it's full of saw dust. There is a possibility that it could be a broken wire leading into the motor (broken conductor within the insulation) or a dry solder joint... maybe try having a closer look and prod around there. A quick and dirty method to check would be to open up the tool to expose the internal wiring, etc. Plug in the battery, pull the trigger and wiggle the various wires leading to the switch and to the motor... see if it springs to life. (PLEASE remove the blade first).
Brilliant... glad I found your channel! My saw is the same vintage as this one. Maybe you can help me with something. The arbor lock on my saw seems to suddenly be staying partially engaged even though the lock is released. When the blade is turned there is a chattering/clicking sound. Have you, perhaps, run into a similar problem with your saw? Thought I would check in with you before I do a similar disassembly. Thanks!
If plastic is done right, it's great. Glock handguns kind of proved that by driving a truck over the plastic framed guns and dropping them out of a helicopter, then picking them up and firing the undamaged guns. People do want a $500 quality saw for $130, but that's not reality. I use to have a Ryobi 18v nickle cadmium circular saw when I installed flooring. I used it for 5 or 6 years, 5 to 6 days a week cutting luan, trim, 2x4s etc. Eventually the bearing wore out, but it was a good saw for the money and lasted a long time given how much I used it. I imagine this saw is even better, so I bought one for around the house stuff. I bet the batteries go bad before the actual saw does.
@@CarbonGlassMan Hi there. 😊 I don’t know, it just made me chuckle. Metal vs. Plastic, an age old debate. Both have their strengths and their weaknesses. Camera guys will abhor plastic used in the bodies of cameras, yet I have had a corner bent on a high end point and shoot, w/ metal body, when knocked off my waist onto a vinyl floor, in a case! 😳 Yes, I know this ain’t about cameras, but it adds merit to what you say. I believe engineers take calculated risks, in order to complete their jobs, and satisfy the ‘bean counters’ at Corporate. The Consumer always pays for it! Peace to you 👍😁🇺🇸
El único q encontré q desarmo la sierra. Excelente video, yo tengo la misma sierra y no funciona, aprieto el gatillo prende la luz por un segundo y bota un silbido cortó cada vez q aprieto el gatillo pero no funciona la herramienta UD tendrá alguna idea saludos desde Perú 👋
@@marioniacuna hola, encontré el problema y es q en mi caso se encontró un MOSFET quemado y aquí en mi país no hay ese repuesto podría comprar en tiendas online chinas pero no garantiza nada de q funcione en otros vídeos encontré q solucionaron ese problema pero encontró q había otra parte dañada y tuvo q cambiar esa tarjeta y funcionó la sierra en mi caso no lo sé si solo sea el MOSFET dado caso sería bueno o también podría ser la tarjeta q va a lado del gatillo. Suerte y me cuentas como te va . Otra opción q veo es comprar de repuestos la misma sierra y usar sus piezas para reparar la mía🤔👍
I'm having a problem with these saws, relatively quickly the break doesn't seem to be releasing. any suggestions? is there any way to disable this feature?
Hi Dale, are you referring the the blade brake feature, where the blade comes to a stop quickly after releasing the trigger? Thats an electronic brake. The break shouldn't be engaged once the blade has stopped rotating.... is yours?
Hi Arc Anon Drum, thanks for the comment. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with the plastic (plastics made in the correct way can be extremely strong) however I'm more thinking along the lines that a full aluminium (alloy) guard would have been better... so log as one isn't dropping the tool from any great height. At least the plastic centre has a bit of give / flex to absorb shock. Cost versus performance also has to be considered... much cheaper to use plastic for possibly only a slight decrease in material performance.
Hi Heroel, I think you are referring to the circlip that holds the flange in place on the shaft? I just used a circlip pliers... at 06:37 you can see part of the handle (red handle) just in frame at the top right side of the video. There are two pairs lying there. When you insert the points on the pliers into the small holes on the 'U' shaped washer / circlip and squeeze the pliers, the two holes are stretched slightly apart from each other and the circlip expands just enough to move out if its groove and then can be removed.
Not terribly well 😂😂 before the video I was taking some measurements and looking at some stuff which required the blade to be taken off… then in a rush put it back on for the intro of the video (didn’t realise I’d put it on backwards). Haha. But it’s back on the correct way now and still cuts like a charm.
Great video! Mine stoped working after a year when I press the trigger there's kinda of a beep sound? But nothing happens, the light turns on and off one time but that's all. I tried differently batteries, I tested continuity but I can't find the cause, any ideas? Thanks!
Hi Ignacia, have you inspected the ribbon wires going to the hall sensor on the back of the motor? Might be worth a look to see if they are damaged. Maybe look / feel for any breaks in the wires where they go into the speed control, switch, etc. maybe the insulation is still good but the wire is broken inside. My feeling is that if no wires are broken, its probably a faulty speed control.
@@GrantBurton i have the same problem, tge ribbon looks fine but theres a small little thing with a black wire and blue wire that heats up with repeated clicks
Hi Johanna, I think the motors rotor needs to be removed, then the upper guard can be separated from the plastic housing (can't quite remember... it was a long time ago). Why do you need to remove your upper guard?
Just picked up a DeWalt atomic compact circular saw DCS 571 it 4 and 1 half inch or 11 and 1/4 cm my first circular saw and I am 60 I hope it's well built ! Thanks for your video I am thinking of picking this up to do 45 degree cuts
The DCS 571 looks interesting although I haven’t had any ‘hands on’ experience with it yet. I also haven’t done many 45 degree cuts with my DCS 750, mostly only straight cuts and so far it works great. It’s super convenient to have these battery operated tools. I’m also pretty happy with the build quality of the DeWalt tools thus far but will revisit the TEARDOWN of the various tools in a year or so time to see how well they have worn.
@@GrantBurton I we'll be using it February to cut studs for a new wall at my church . I am a DIY guy not a pro I will try to keep my fingers and hands and let you know how I made out 👍
Grant Burton Have not had a chance to use it since the pandemic we didn’t build our prayer room yet and I had a couple setbacks healthwise but hanging in there I hope all is good with you 😁👍🏾
Had a new one at work and think the gearbox is messed up already. After seeing this I think the pinion may be toast. I personally have the 54v and it's a beast. I think that may still have 1mm out with the shoe also
Maybe you are able to get a replacement pinion... definitely worth a look, might end up being a cheap fix. Those 54v versions look awesome however I haven't had the pleasure of using one yet.
My saw stopped today cutting some oak. The handle het right up and it stayed on when finished cutting. The trigger bit you push first before the actual trigger jammed on and now it wont start at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks.
Hi, unfortunately I have never opened the brushed version... only seen it in stores. I’ll also search online and if I find any info, I’ll send you a message.
Hi chill pill, I realize this is a late reply, Did you try taking the end cap off the motor? I checked an older 18 volt brushed saw, and two screws hold an end cap on, and when you remove it, there is access to the brushes. Good luck. Peace!
Could u help me plzz.. after buy my dewalt round saw dcs393 it stop working after 1st use. I notice the white bd black wires inside it are connected and when I disconnect it the saw works but with it screw on it doesn't work. Help plzzz!!
Hi Yoanne, If this has happened after only the first use, I would return the saw under warranty and swap it our for a new one or ask for a refund. I'm not exactly sure what the white and black wires are for or what they control. Also I think the DCS939 has a brushed motor with a different type of speed control compared to this one which is brushless (the DCS570).
Hola , no sé si me responderlas ya q es un vídeos antiguo jaj Quiero preguntar si está sierra tiene MICROFUSIBLES porq pregunto, porq tengo esa misma sierra q no funciona. aprieto el gatillo y prende la luz por un segundo pero no arranca la sierra , bota un pequeño silbido corto cada vez q aprieto el gatillo. Buscando videos ví uno pero dónde pasaba esto en un taladro el dcd996 q prendía su luz un segundo pero no funcionaba y encontró q en su tarjeta de control hay unos micro fusibles, no pudo encontrar repuesto le hizo un pequeño puente con alambre fino y funcionó, lo mismo podría ser en mi sierra ?? Los motores brushless al igual q las de escobillas usan fusibles como una forma de proteger el motor. Cómo puedo encontrar estos fusibles? O q me recomienda revisar, para hallar el problema gracias y disculpa por mi extendido comentario saludos desde Perú
@@marioniacuna hola, encontré una falla y es el MOSFET q está quemado y no hay repuesto aquí en mi país, pero si se arregla supondría q está solucionado viendo otro videos con caso parecido cambio el MOSFET pero encontró otra falla en la tarjeta q va a lado del gatillo, lo reemplazo y solucionado quedó, era una Milwaukee espero q el mío solo sea el MOSFET. Me cuenta como te fue saludos
i took Apart my 20v Dewalt 1st Gen 13" String Trinner CHAOS Motor Replacement Costly !!! ( Mine Burnt Out) Went back to 27cc 4 Stroke 16" swath Troy Bilt NOW 2020 using a 82v Snapper 16" String Strimmer Battery made by Briggs and Stratton AmazingPower at 82v
Hi Joni, I had a quick look at that Snapper string trimmer... it looks pretty awesome. Which battery are you using... the 2, 4 or 5AH? and how is the runtime?
@@GrantBurton Came with 2.0 AHr th-cam.com/video/PKbwp4b-aA8/w-d-xo.html abot 40 mins Very Quick Charge Time 1/2 hr , They Sent me Another Battery FREE !!! my issue from Day 1 only Charged up to 3 Bars instead of the 4 Bars - i think the Battery Voltage Peaked to Early Causing the Charger to Shut OFF Other Than That LOTS of POWER !!!!!!! and Torque , Better than This - th-cam.com/video/dVE9fkT8sak/w-d-xo.html
Agreed... They seem to cut much more efficiently when facing the correct way... haha. (Just before filming I was taking some measurements and popped the blade back onto the saw for the intro of the video and didn't realise I had put it on the backwards). Thanks for the comment though, it made me laugh.
That saw is underpower! If I had chance to try before I buy -i never be purchase it. I did use same1 but on flex batteries -that have so much power. Cutting 4by2 on 45 angle is stalling Cutting 20mm marine ply is at 0 is taking ages... I do like the machine futures.... Just think if is possible to modifie it to male it stronger...? Maybe overvolting it...
Hi Adam, thanks for the comment. If you are looking for more power, the DeWalt Circular Saw with Power Detect and 8AH battery should be powerful enough for your needs or the Flexvolt Circular Saw with 60v flexvolt battery... but then the price is quite a bit more. I don't think it's worth trying to modify it, rather use the flexvolt battery as you described. Putting the motor or speed control under anymore load would likely burn it out, or if it doesn't burn our, likely will not have a long life.
@@GrantBurton hi I do have circular flex volt but. I been using 5a battery so you think this going to affect the circular saw ? Thank you for your answer. I w’d really appreciate
Hi Grant the dewalt dcs575 flex volt has the same pendulum guard as yours I think they are the same saw but different voltage motor but the European version doesn't have a rafter hook
I'll see if I can get my hands on the flex volt 60v version to teardown and compare (hopefully the repair agents here have got one they are willing to lend to me for a few hours although I wouldn't hold my breath).
HI Grant, I found your video through a search because I just opened a brand new DCS565 6-1/2 inch saw and it seems my spindle (arbor) is loose, at least to me. Your spindle assembly looks similar to my model. Does your spindle within the gearbox have any play in it? With the blade on mine I can rock the blade a bit back and forth (wobble it) which makes it look like the main shaft is loose even though the blade is securely attached to the arbor.
Hi Goody, thanks for the comment. I'll have to check for certain tomorrow as the workshop has has already been closed up for the evening (hope I remember), but as I recall, there should not be any wobble to the blade else it wouldn't cut straight and true. I may be a defective tool?
@@GrantBurton Hello Grant! Yes my thoughts exactly! I am very concerned about a true cut and so far I think the manufacturer understands and is willing to address the issue. I measured 1/8" of lateral movement in the blade which cannot be good and surely signals a defective tool. Unlike your saw I have discovered that the interior end of my arbor spins inside a bronze sleeve bushing and not on roller bearings like yours. I honestly think that bushing is missing yet somehow made it through manufacturing checks. Thanks for the reply!
I have this saw. It no longer works. So i opened it up using your video. In the motor I found a bit of what appears to be fine sawdust. My saw started acting up about 3 months ago. It would run for 3 seconds then cut off. I’m not sure how it would start working properly again but it would. Now i get nothing. The light comes on for a brief moment and that’s all that happens. I still have it fully apart as much as you did in the video. I will attempt to remove all sawdust, check wires and connectors. To give this thing one more chance to remain on the jobsite. For how old it is i am dissatisfied with the problems it is having. And yes it has always cut crooked.
Hi Douglas, thanks for the comment. Forgive me for asking but did you try a different battery, one that is a known working battery? If the battery is good, I wonder if it isn't dust that is made its way into the switch? Maybe a good blow out with some compressed air is worth a try. Intermittent problems are the worst. As a reference, how old is your saw? I hear that the new power detect amzn.to/3ADIqca and Flexvolt amzn.to/3l4BOKN saws have a lot more power than the old ones. Links are Amazon Affiliate links but of course feel free to just do a normal Amazon / Google search.
Have the same problem, just over a year old, seems like the brake is on or something? I stripped it following this video, everything looks pretty clean tbh. The gears spin fine when motor is off. Any ideas?
The fine-tooth circular saw blade you had on the saw in the beginning of the video is made for a saw with the blade on the left, as you had it with its teeth facing the wrong direction with the label side showing.
Hi L.I. Archer, Well spotted however, it is the correct blade for the saw. A few minutes prior to filming, I removed the blade and was taking some measurements on the tool and once complete, I quickly popped the blade back on to the saw (as you pointed out, obviously not in the correct orientation) just for the intro of the video, knowing that I would remove the blade again a few minutes later... haha. When the blade is on this saw, with the label side facing out, the teeth point forward. That’s pretty awesome that you picked that up though, thanks for the heads up and the comment.
Ok, but…..No mention that the zero index on the front of the shoe does not align with the cut line…making all the shoe front edge measuring marks pointless. Yes the blade is not parallel to the shoe side…and for the money it should be! So how can we modify the mountings to correct it…that would be useful (or I guess sand away the shoe side to true it up).
Greetings ... excellent material to know this tool .... By the way, I could ask you a question. You know I have the dewalt Dcs570b, with 1 month of use and it has failed me .... It does not start, could an electronic component be the cause? The technical services here in Chile are terrible ... I would appreciate your guidance ... Many
Hi Felix, If your DCS570b is one month old, does it still have warranty? maybe you can return it for a new tool? Is it completely dead or does it make any sounds when the trigger is pulled? I would first try another battery on the saw, and also the original battery on another tool if possible... it could be a bad battery? If its not a bad battery, possibly a bad battery contact where the battery clips in? If this all looks good, then possibly a fault in the speed control / switch / motor wires... It could be a number of different things. If it is a problem with the speed control, like a bad component, its not something that can be repaired as the components are all potted so you'll likely have to buy a replacement part. I would say the best option is to return the tool (to where you purchased it) and ask for a new one under warranty because once you open the tool and have a look inside, the service centre may not even want to look at it if you are unable to repair it yourself.
Hello Grant, Greetings again .... thank you very much for your answer, well ... I tested the tool with the original batteries of a drill, and nothing, it just emits a sound similar to as if the tool were with a brake. Is a more powerful battery necessary for this tool? I wonder since I tested with 1 original Dewalt 2Ah battery ... But I am very grateful to you Grant, greetings from Chile.
want to ask if someone know my dcs570 problem..why when i press the switch, firstly it working normally..but when i put it for about 10 minutes..and i press the switch again, its not working..and when i take off the battery, put it back to machine..its working again..for used it for break time not to long..it's ok..but if stop use about 10 minutes..that problem coming again and again..what should i do? sorry if my english not so good..im from malaysia
Thanks for doing the teardown mate ,very interested to see that bearing and gear support plate ,I think it would be a fibre reinforced plastic to take the heat and stresses ,must be okay these saws have seen hard service for a few years now and I'm not aware of any problems. Merry Christmas from Australia.
Merry Christmas to you and the family. I’ll be tearing down my other tools in the near future... couple of Dewalt cordless drills, impact wrench, SDS hammer drill, Makita jigsaw, grinders, etc. will be interesting to see the build quality of those. Also thanks for the support and comments.
Grant Burton Just as a matter of interest if you can remember, was there a ball bearing or bushing in the housing where the shaft goes into the housing at 8.35 thanks?
interman 77 Unfortunately I can’t remember and I’m not anywhere near my original footage to have a closer look. Also, I’ll only be able to open it up again in a few days to confirm for you. Hopefully I remember.
Grant Burton Don't disassemble it again on my account mate , btw I just watched this video again and I think you're correct about the "teal coloured tools " not letting their quality slip .
Hello Grant, just out of interest where did you buy this saw? Living in ireland Im having trouble finding this saw with the rafter hook! Great video of both the teardown and the saw review, Keep it up!
Hi, I purchased my saw from Amazon. At the time, it was the only one available for shipping to South Africa so I purchased it and it luckily had the rafter hook. Thanks for the comment and for watching and if you are interested, maybe check out some of my other teardown videos of the other DeWALT products I've purchased.
Great Video Grant, and big thumbs up! Whilst you were “inside the bowels” of the beast, did you see anything that could cause or make a rattling or clicking noise? You mentioned a board or something that seemed loose, at some point in the video? I have a DCS 578 60 volt, and when I pick it up, and move it up and down, there is a distinct, but not loud, clicking noise from within the saw. This is only noticed when it isn’t running. And if I pick it up off the bench easy like, it doesn’t seem to make the noise? Saw runs well, and blade spins true, and the brake works. It’s just weird to hear that noise. One wonders, what is loose or moving around inside?! Thanks and cheers! ✌🏻👍🇺🇸😁
Hi George, I wonder if it's not a RFID tag that has become unstuck from the inside of the casing and is floating and bumping around? I believe many tools now days have these little anti-theft tags inside. I would imagine that would sound like a small piece of plastic bouncing around when you shake the tool. The loose board I was referring to is at 11:39 and I suppose it is possible for that to rattle around but I've shaked mine saw around and I don't hear any rattling. Keep well.
@@GrantBurton Hi Grant, Thank You for the reply! I wondered about the blade mount so I went to pull out the blade wrench from the base, and I discovered, much to my chagrin, it was causing the noise. 😳🙄 The blade wrench is just loose enough in the housing, to cause the rattling noise. Your suggestion of the RFID tag was great however. Already a Subscriber, but definitely would be now! 😁. About the drill chucks, You might take the special drill bit from a Kreg kit, to check out a drill. I’ve found my bit to run very true, and I use it to check out any drill I purchase. I also use a Freud Forstner bit as they are machined to high standards. Enjoy your content! Please stay safe and Healthy! 👍👍👍✌🏻😁
Haha... just before posting my previous reply, I quickly went down to shake my saw and also heard a rattle and for a second I thought to myself 'but wait, my saw also rattles' and then I remembered the blade wrench tool, pulled it out and the rattle was gone...thats when I gave it a good shake to see if that small board was making a noise. haha. As for the drill, maybe I'll setup a dial gauge and measure it with the shaft of an 8mm tap. This past weekend I actually tested a new chuck for my drill press. Its a PORTA Keyless chuck (1 - 13mm B16 - MT2) and if I was measuring correctly, the quill / arbour of the drill press measured a runout of 0.01mm and the shaft of the 8mm tap clamped into the chuck measured a runout of 0.09mm... so i guess the chuck has a runout of 0.08mm. I didn't measure the runout of the old key chuck that was in the press because i could see the runout by eye... haha. Thanks for the support and great chatting with you.
@@GrantBurton Grant, that is funny. I do appreciate your replies and following up on me. Yeah, it is a shame, as it seems like as Technology advances, some of the older established ‘norms,’ seem to take a hit on quality? There is still quality stuff out there, if a person wants to pay the price. We all live in a ‘throw away’ Society, as you know. Do try out a good quality Forstner bit, as they are machined to closer tolerances, and I think it helps to see how good or bad runout is in a tool/ Chuck, etc. Am Looking forward to upcoming videos. If you need an old tool to tear down, maybe I can help? I have a whole wall of them! 😳😬🤔😄😁😂. Grant and everyone stay safe and Healthy!!! 👍👍👍✌🏻😁 🇿🇦🇺🇸
Hi Bart, It went back together fairly easily... haha. Check out the update video where I partially disassembled it again. th-cam.com/video/CZEkC3bHx0U/w-d-xo.html
Hi Joni... I'm not too familiar with the bearing design on table saws but I would guess they use standard size sealed bearings? Maybe if they are cheap enough, its worth throwing in a new set rather than greasing up the old ones... unless the old ones are still in good condition?
Hi James, if it's brand new, I would not mess with it and rather return it and get a replacement or a refund? Are you able to check if the battery is working?
Please let me know if it worked afterwards 🤣🤣🤣🤣. Jokes aside, it looks great. You should actually do a test on a piece of lumber to see how long the battery will last per single charge cycle. I'm interested to see how long it will last under full load.
Hi Henry, it certainly did work afterwards... haha. Luckily these tools are not that difficult to teardown and put back together... a little like a 'kit' build product. I'll keep that in mind for a future video... I have a few different cordless tools, maybe I'll do runtime tests on all of them in a single video.
Hello and well spotted. A few minutes prior to filming, I removed the blade and was taking some measurements on the tool and once complete, I quickly popped the blade back on to the saw (as you pointed out, obviously not in the correct orientation) just for the intro of the video, knowing that I would remove the blade again a few minutes later... haha. When the blade is on this saw, with the label side facing out, the teeth point forward. That’s pretty awesome that you picked that up though, not many people notice that (or maybe they do but don't comment). Thanks for the heads up and the comment.
When I changed the blade on my saw and tightened it down the arbor lock seemed to not release fully and it brakes really hard. Tried 3 different times. And...it is not smooth.
Hi Merrill, It sounds like something has gone wrong with the arbor lock mechanism on the inside. You'll probably have to open it up and have a look... I could only assume the steel part of the lock that is on the motor has become bent and is rubbing on something inside. Does the lock lever still feel normal when you press it and let it spring back?
![TEARDOWN Dewalt XR DCD796 20v MAX Brushless Drill - Burton Builds S03E04 [4K]](/img/n.gif)
Hi Grant, that was a great analysis over the saw, especially the details. Appreciate you checking the blade parallelism at the beginning.
An update on my experience with DeWALT factory service: they actually agreed to fix the saw for free upon inspection by a technician. What they actually ended up doing was replacing the ENTIRE shoe, and even the bevel adjustment part I think. The end result is that the blade is nearly 100% parallel (0.15mm difference measured)
Surprisingly, they told me to from now on, store the saw on something that allows it to sit flat as opposed to resting on its blade guard, e.g. placing the saw on 2x lumbers so the blade guard isn't in contact with anything. Wonder if this is really what caused the 1mm problem but I'll follow their advice for my own good.
In my opinion, I don't think resting it on the blade guard would cause and damage, If it was such a bad practice, it would have been included in the instructions in the tools user manual, but as you say, probably best to follow their advice, especially since they were willing to help with the repair. It's nice to hear that the service centre were willing to help and didn't try send you packing.
Thanks Burton
the issue I am having is the saw blade stopped turning, the motor runs for a few seconds and then shuts off, I here a grinding noise, then the saw shuts down. Sounds like a gear issue. I saw on the video where the blade arbor and the one gear is removed. I noticed a smaller gear that must be the drive. How do you access that piece.
I have yet to tear into the tool, but wanted to ask before i do.
Hi Robert, by what you describe, it does sound like a gear issue, and luckily easy to inspect without a full teardown. I'm not 100% sure about the pinion removal but by the looks of things, it comes out from the back along with the rotor - it's pressed onto the rotor shaft. I would have to tear it down completely again and have a look to be sure. (it's the second time somebody has asked.. haha)
Let us know what you find once you've had a look.
I bought one of these yesterday and I got 3 or 4 cuts and it stopped working , only had it 20mins! Very very light work cutting plywood sheets! Tried 3 or 4 battery’s and same thing happened! Blade spins with a grinding noise for a couple seconds and stops! So it’s back to the shop where I purchased, either a replacement or refund , playing it by ear!
Hi Daniel, thats not good... super irritating when you buy a new premium product and it stops working so soon. Touch wood, mine is still working well. Please let us know how your replacement / refund went?
I have the exact same problem. Have you by any chance found out what the issue is?
thx for the teardown ... just picked one of these out of a rubbish bin and it looks new as no wear on the plate. No battery, missing a blade clamp/bolt but doesn't work. Your teardown gave me some ideas for where to look for the problem. The light works and the spindle spins and stops. Might need a replacement switch rather than the whole motor mechanism. This seems to be as a single unit that is more than the cost of the new saw !! your IDing of the switch is really helpful asI am sure it can be replaced !! thx again ... Stu
Awesome find... hopefully you are able to get it to work again, if not then I suppose keep it around for spare parts. Could probably find a replacement switch but just taking a guess, I don't think that is the problem. Maybe have a look at the wiring connecting onto the motor, especially the hall sensor wires (those would be the thinner wires - ribbon cable). A break / dry joint in one of the hall sensor wires could be causing the controller not to know the position of the rotor and thus unable to start rotation. If it's a failure in the speed control then it likely can't be repaired. Let us know what you end up finding.
after i finished mechanic school, i worked at the school briefly as a teacher's aid, and i got to talk to a Bosch engineer who was at the school as a guest speaker, and i asked him why everything is being made from plastic lately, he said , there are a million different formulas for plastic , the ones they use for (reputable companies ) tools are impact resistant, lighter, and good for absorbing torque, so they will twist , and deflect, momentarily , and go back to their molded shape better than metals, he said if you were to drop an all metal chasis drill gun to the ground , it would probably crack , or dent really bad, but plastic usually won't,,, so the moral of the story is that plastic isn't always just a cheap substitute , it is often prefered, , another plus is , it can easily be molded into any shape that would be very cost prohibitive to the average consumer , so it has made previously unobtainable tools available to the DIY'er , so we should celebrate the advancment of plastics
Hi Ronn, thanks for the feedback. I was actually looking at my vehicles radiator a few days ago (Toyota Hilux pickup) and the top and bottom tanks are made of Glass fibre reinforced nylon (PA66 GF30) which is similar to what our power tool casings are made of... pretty strong stuff. My thoughts are that gearboxes and stuff that houses running gear sets should be as rigid as possible (metal casings) to avoid any deformation under load while tool casings being reinforced nylon is probably best (for that impact resistance you mentioned)... but that is a very good point about cost and accessibility for DIY’ers. I’m actually working on a video about tension, impact and hardness testing and it was interesting to see how strong BMS vs Aluminium vs Carbon Fibre vs plain old Perspex is in tension. I guess we need to start becoming more accepting of technological advances in ‘plastic’ strength and design. It’s just that many ‘old school’ things were built to last and that’s what I like to see.
I agree, I'm not convinced those plastic parts are because of cheaping out and all metal is necessarily better.
On my well-used DCS570 I now have a problem where the saw starts up for about a second then stops dead. I understand this could be the motor starter capacitor, which I don't think was specifically mentioned in the video? (the small black barrel mounted on a tiny circuit board and attached to the motor by loose cables). Looks like it could be a fairly standard 50V 470uF capacitor so I'm hoping I can replace it. Shame to throw away a handy saw for such a tiny component.
I have the exact same problem. Have you by any chance found a solution? Cause I’m trying to fix it myself
En el minuto 12:05 el pequeño condensador de bloqueo que mencionas cada vez que aprieto el gatillo se calienta junto con su cable eso es normal? porque cada vez que aprieto el gatillo se calienta más y más. Eso lo noté cuando intenté prenderlo y el cable que alimenta el condensador daba un salto, temblaba cada vez que apretaba el gatillo y fue ahí que note lo caliente que estaba como su cable.
I have one of these and after about a year of use in my Handyman business, it just stopped working. I made a long cut, it did great and didn't really struggle but the next time I picked it up, nothing. I've tried different batteries and did get it to make a rotation or two a couple of times while repeatedly pulling the trigger. Now it won't even do that. This seems to be a common problem with this model and I can't find any information on what it might be or if there is a fix for it. Any Ideas or information would be appreciated. Thanks.
I’m having the same issue. I’ve had it about a year and a half, and it’s just quit.
Hi Michael, thats pretty crap dude, super irritating to have fairly new and expensive tools give problems. I haven't experienced that problem yet but as time goes by, I'm hearing of it more and more. Just a thought... have you tried opening up the switch and blowing it out with compressed air? maybe it's full of saw dust.
There is a possibility that it could be a broken wire leading into the motor (broken conductor within the insulation) or a dry solder joint... maybe try having a closer look and prod around there. A quick and dirty method to check would be to open up the tool to expose the internal wiring, etc. Plug in the battery, pull the trigger and wiggle the various wires leading to the switch and to the motor... see if it springs to life. (PLEASE remove the blade first).
Brilliant... glad I found your channel! My saw is the same vintage as this one. Maybe you can help me with something. The arbor lock on my saw seems to suddenly be staying partially engaged even though the lock is released. When the blade is turned there is a chattering/clicking sound. Have you, perhaps, run into a similar problem with your saw? Thought I would check in with you before I do a similar disassembly. Thanks!
Is my DeWALT circular saw broken or is this normal… let’s find out.
If plastic is done right, it's great. Glock handguns kind of proved that by driving a truck over the plastic framed guns and dropping them out of a helicopter, then picking them up and firing the undamaged guns. People do want a $500 quality saw for $130, but that's not reality. I use to have a Ryobi 18v nickle cadmium circular saw when I installed flooring. I used it for 5 or 6 years, 5 to 6 days a week cutting luan, trim, 2x4s etc. Eventually the bearing wore out, but it was a good saw for the money and lasted a long time given how much I used it. I imagine this saw is even better, so I bought one for around the house stuff. I bet the batteries go bad before the actual saw does.
LOL, “if plastic is done right...”. 🤔🙄😁😂
@@georgedavall9449 What's funny about that?
@@CarbonGlassMan Hi there. 😊 I don’t know, it just made me chuckle. Metal vs. Plastic, an age old debate. Both have their strengths and their weaknesses. Camera guys will abhor plastic used in the bodies of cameras, yet I have had a corner bent on a high end point and shoot, w/ metal body, when knocked off my waist onto a vinyl floor, in a case! 😳 Yes, I know this ain’t about cameras, but it adds merit to what you say. I believe engineers take calculated risks, in order to complete their jobs, and satisfy the ‘bean counters’ at Corporate. The Consumer always pays for it!
Peace to you 👍😁🇺🇸
El único q encontré q desarmo la sierra. Excelente video, yo tengo la misma sierra y no funciona, aprieto el gatillo prende la luz por un segundo y bota un silbido cortó cada vez q aprieto el gatillo pero no funciona la herramienta UD tendrá alguna idea saludos desde Perú 👋
Por fa comenta si pudiste solucionar el problema de tu sierra.
@@marioniacuna hola, encontré el problema y es q en mi caso se encontró un MOSFET quemado y aquí en mi país no hay ese repuesto podría comprar en tiendas online chinas pero no garantiza nada de q funcione en otros vídeos encontré q solucionaron ese problema pero encontró q había otra parte dañada y tuvo q cambiar esa tarjeta y funcionó la sierra en mi caso no lo sé si solo sea el MOSFET dado caso sería bueno o también podría ser la tarjeta q va a lado del gatillo. Suerte y me cuentas como te va . Otra opción q veo es comprar de repuestos la misma sierra y usar sus piezas para reparar la mía🤔👍
@@jumanpu1164 La desarmaré y luego comento....gracias. saludos.
I'm having a problem with these saws, relatively quickly the break doesn't seem to be releasing. any suggestions? is there any way to disable this feature?
Hi Dale, are you referring the the blade brake feature, where the blade comes to a stop quickly after releasing the trigger? Thats an electronic brake. The break shouldn't be engaged once the blade has stopped rotating.... is yours?
The plastic that you are criticizing here 4:06 is also the plastic that houses the motor, etc.
Hi Arc Anon Drum, thanks for the comment. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with the plastic (plastics made in the correct way can be extremely strong) however I'm more thinking along the lines that a full aluminium (alloy) guard would have been better... so log as one isn't dropping the tool from any great height. At least the plastic centre has a bit of give / flex to absorb shock. Cost versus performance also has to be considered... much cheaper to use plastic for possibly only a slight decrease in material performance.
How did you remove the u shaped washer in the middle were the saw sits? Before you remove the blade guard
Hi Heroel, I think you are referring to the circlip that holds the flange in place on the shaft? I just used a circlip pliers... at 06:37 you can see part of the handle (red handle) just in frame at the top right side of the video. There are two pairs lying there. When you insert the points on the pliers into the small holes on the 'U' shaped washer / circlip and squeeze the pliers, the two holes are stretched slightly apart from each other and the circlip expands just enough to move out if its groove and then can be removed.
Do you know what amperage the motor is?? Why doesn't DeWalt share stats?
Hi Alonso, I’m not exactly sure. When I have a chance, I’ll try google the part number of the motor and see if anything comes up.
I been servicing my power tools with grease
How's she cut the blade is on backwards
Not terribly well 😂😂 before the video I was taking some measurements and looking at some stuff which required the blade to be taken off… then in a rush put it back on for the intro of the video (didn’t realise I’d put it on backwards). Haha.
But it’s back on the correct way now and still cuts like a charm.
Ddnt show removing snap ring so idk if it needs an in or out...
Can you remind us of what snap ring you are referring to?
Great video! Mine stoped working after a year when I press the trigger there's kinda of a beep sound? But nothing happens, the light turns on and off one time but that's all. I tried differently batteries, I tested continuity but I can't find the cause, any ideas? Thanks!
Same here, Ignacio. Mine won't turn either
Hi Ignacia, have you inspected the ribbon wires going to the hall sensor on the back of the motor? Might be worth a look to see if they are damaged. Maybe look / feel for any breaks in the wires where they go into the speed control, switch, etc. maybe the insulation is still good but the wire is broken inside. My feeling is that if no wires are broken, its probably a faulty speed control.
@@GrantBurton i have the same problem, tge ribbon looks fine but theres a small little thing with a black wire and blue wire that heats up with repeated clicks
How do you remove upper guard?
Hi Johanna, I think the motors rotor needs to be removed, then the upper guard can be separated from the plastic housing (can't quite remember... it was a long time ago). Why do you need to remove your upper guard?
Just picked up a DeWalt atomic compact circular saw DCS 571 it 4 and 1 half inch or 11 and 1/4 cm my first circular saw and I am 60 I hope it's well built ! Thanks for your video I am thinking of picking this up to do 45 degree cuts
The DCS 571 looks interesting although I haven’t had any ‘hands on’ experience with it yet. I also haven’t done many 45 degree cuts with my DCS 750, mostly only straight cuts and so far it works great. It’s super convenient to have these battery operated tools. I’m also pretty happy with the build quality of the DeWalt tools thus far but will revisit the TEARDOWN of the various tools in a year or so time to see how well they have worn.
Give us some feedback on how well it works once you have used it.
@@GrantBurton I we'll be using it February to cut studs for a new wall at my church . I am a DIY guy not a pro I will try to keep my fingers and hands and let you know how I made out 👍
Hi Adrian, how has your saw been treating you?
Grant Burton Have not had a chance to use it since the pandemic we didn’t build our prayer room yet and I had a couple setbacks healthwise but hanging in there I hope all is good with you 😁👍🏾
Had a new one at work and think the gearbox is messed up already. After seeing this I think the pinion may be toast. I personally have the 54v and it's a beast. I think that may still have 1mm out with the shoe also
Maybe you are able to get a replacement pinion... definitely worth a look, might end up being a cheap fix. Those 54v versions look awesome however I haven't had the pleasure of using one yet.
My saw stopped today cutting some oak. The handle het right up and it stayed on when finished cutting. The trigger bit you push first before the actual trigger jammed on and now it wont start at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks.
Its broken
@@ironmantooltime nae shite mate 🤣🤣👍🏼
@@TTT-Turbo 😁
Hi grant great video. Would you happen to know how to change the brushes on the brushed version .cant find any info anywhere?
Hi, unfortunately I have never opened the brushed version... only seen it in stores. I’ll also search online and if I find any info, I’ll send you a message.
Hi chill pill, I realize this is a late reply, Did you try taking the end cap off the motor? I checked an older 18 volt brushed saw, and two screws hold an end cap on, and when you remove it, there is access to the brushes. Good luck. Peace!
Could u help me plzz.. after buy my dewalt round saw dcs393 it stop working after 1st use. I notice the white bd black wires inside it are connected and when I disconnect it the saw works but with it screw on it doesn't work. Help plzzz!!
Hi Yoanne, If this has happened after only the first use, I would return the saw under warranty and swap it our for a new one or ask for a refund. I'm not exactly sure what the white and black wires are for or what they control. Also I think the DCS939 has a brushed motor with a different type of speed control compared to this one which is brushless (the DCS570).
Hola , no sé si me responderlas ya q es un vídeos antiguo jaj
Quiero preguntar si está sierra tiene MICROFUSIBLES porq pregunto, porq tengo esa misma sierra q no funciona.
aprieto el gatillo y prende la luz por un segundo pero no arranca la sierra , bota un pequeño silbido corto cada vez q aprieto el gatillo.
Buscando videos ví uno pero dónde pasaba esto en un taladro el dcd996 q prendía su luz un segundo pero no funcionaba y encontró q en su tarjeta de control hay unos micro fusibles, no pudo encontrar repuesto le hizo un pequeño puente con alambre fino y funcionó, lo mismo podría ser en mi sierra ?? Los motores brushless al igual q las de escobillas usan fusibles como una forma de proteger el motor. Cómo puedo encontrar estos fusibles? O q me recomienda revisar, para hallar el problema gracias y disculpa por mi extendido comentario saludos desde Perú
Buen día amigo....qué pasó con tu sierra. Sí pudiste solucionar el problema ? Comenta, es que tengo una con esa falla.
@@marioniacuna hola, encontré una falla y es el MOSFET q está quemado y no hay repuesto aquí en mi país, pero si se arregla supondría q está solucionado viendo otro videos con caso parecido cambio el MOSFET pero encontró otra falla en la tarjeta q va a lado del gatillo, lo reemplazo y solucionado quedó, era una Milwaukee espero q el mío solo sea el MOSFET. Me cuenta como te fue saludos
i took Apart my 20v Dewalt 1st Gen 13" String Trinner
CHAOS
Motor Replacement Costly !!! ( Mine Burnt Out)
Went back to 27cc 4 Stroke 16" swath Troy Bilt
NOW 2020 using a 82v Snapper 16" String Strimmer
Battery made by Briggs and Stratton
AmazingPower at 82v
Hi Joni, I had a quick look at that Snapper string trimmer... it looks pretty awesome. Which battery are you using... the 2, 4 or 5AH? and how is the runtime?
@@GrantBurton Came with 2.0 AHr
th-cam.com/video/PKbwp4b-aA8/w-d-xo.html
abot 40 mins Very Quick Charge Time 1/2 hr , They Sent me Another Battery FREE !!!
my issue from Day 1 only Charged up to 3 Bars instead of the 4 Bars - i think the Battery Voltage Peaked to Early Causing the Charger to Shut OFF Other Than That LOTS of POWER !!!!!!! and Torque , Better than This - th-cam.com/video/dVE9fkT8sak/w-d-xo.html
Would prob be better if you turned the blade around the correct way. You will really like it.
Agreed... They seem to cut much more efficiently when facing the correct way... haha. (Just before filming I was taking some measurements and popped the blade back onto the saw for the intro of the video and didn't realise I had put it on the backwards). Thanks for the comment though, it made me laugh.
That saw is underpower! If I had chance to try before I buy -i never be purchase it.
I did use same1 but on flex batteries -that have so much power.
Cutting 4by2 on 45 angle is stalling
Cutting 20mm marine ply is at 0 is taking ages...
I do like the machine futures....
Just think if is possible to modifie it to male it stronger...?
Maybe overvolting it...
Hi Adam, thanks for the comment. If you are looking for more power, the DeWalt Circular Saw with Power Detect and 8AH battery should be powerful enough for your needs or the Flexvolt Circular Saw with 60v flexvolt battery... but then the price is quite a bit more. I don't think it's worth trying to modify it, rather use the flexvolt battery as you described. Putting the motor or speed control under anymore load would likely burn it out, or if it doesn't burn our, likely will not have a long life.
@@GrantBurton hi I do have circular flex volt but. I been using 5a battery so you think this going to affect the circular saw ? Thank you for your answer. I w’d really appreciate
Hi Grant the dewalt dcs575 flex volt has the same pendulum guard as yours I think they are the same saw but different voltage motor but the European version doesn't have a rafter hook
I'll see if I can get my hands on the flex volt 60v version to teardown and compare (hopefully the repair agents here have got one they are willing to lend to me for a few hours although I wouldn't hold my breath).
HI Grant, I found your video through a search because I just opened a brand new DCS565 6-1/2 inch saw and it seems my spindle (arbor) is loose, at least to me. Your spindle assembly looks similar to my model. Does your spindle within the gearbox have any play in it? With the blade on mine I can rock the blade a bit back and forth (wobble it) which makes it look like the main shaft is loose even though the blade is securely attached to the arbor.
Hi Goody, thanks for the comment. I'll have to check for certain tomorrow as the workshop has has already been closed up for the evening (hope I remember), but as I recall, there should not be any wobble to the blade else it wouldn't cut straight and true. I may be a defective tool?
@@GrantBurton Hello Grant! Yes my thoughts exactly! I am very concerned about a true cut and so far I think the manufacturer understands and is willing to address the issue. I measured 1/8" of lateral movement in the blade which cannot be good and surely signals a defective tool. Unlike your saw I have discovered that the interior end of my arbor spins inside a bronze sleeve bushing and not on roller bearings like yours. I honestly think that bushing is missing yet somehow made it through manufacturing checks. Thanks for the reply!
I have this saw. It no longer works. So i opened it up using your video. In the motor I found a bit of what appears to be fine sawdust. My saw started acting up about 3 months ago. It would run for 3 seconds then cut off. I’m not sure how it would start working properly again but it would. Now i get nothing. The light comes on for a brief moment and that’s all that happens. I still have it fully apart as much as you did in the video. I will attempt to remove all sawdust, check wires and connectors. To give this thing one more chance to remain on the jobsite. For how old it is i am dissatisfied with the problems it is having. And yes it has always cut crooked.
Hi Douglas, thanks for the comment. Forgive me for asking but did you try a different battery, one that is a known working battery?
If the battery is good, I wonder if it isn't dust that is made its way into the switch? Maybe a good blow out with some compressed air is worth a try. Intermittent problems are the worst.
As a reference, how old is your saw?
I hear that the new power detect amzn.to/3ADIqca and Flexvolt amzn.to/3l4BOKN saws have a lot more power than the old ones. Links are Amazon Affiliate links but of course feel free to just do a normal Amazon / Google search.
I have just ordered a spare or repair one with this same issue. (not yet received)
Did you ever resolve the issue?
Have the same problem, just over a year old, seems like the brake is on or something? I stripped it following this video, everything looks pretty clean tbh. The gears spin fine when motor is off. Any ideas?
The fine-tooth circular saw blade you had on the saw in the beginning of the video is made for a saw with the blade on the left, as you had it with its teeth facing the wrong direction with the label side showing.
Hi L.I. Archer, Well spotted however, it is the correct blade for the saw. A few minutes prior to filming, I removed the blade and was taking some measurements on the tool and once complete, I quickly popped the blade back on to the saw (as you pointed out, obviously not in the correct orientation) just for the intro of the video, knowing that I would remove the blade again a few minutes later... haha. When the blade is on this saw, with the label side facing out, the teeth point forward. That’s pretty awesome that you picked that up though, thanks for the heads up and the comment.
first thing i noticed also
@@castawaysmc uh huh, sure 🙄😁
Ok, but…..No mention that the zero index on the front of the shoe does not align with the cut line…making all the shoe front edge measuring marks pointless. Yes the blade is not parallel to the shoe side…and for the money it should be! So how can we modify the mountings to correct it…that would be useful (or I guess sand away the shoe side to true it up).
Greetings ... excellent material to know this tool .... By the way, I could ask you a question. You know I have the dewalt Dcs570b, with 1 month of use and it has failed me .... It does not start, could an electronic component be the cause? The technical services here in Chile are terrible ... I would appreciate your guidance ... Many
Hi Felix, If your DCS570b is one month old, does it still have warranty? maybe you can return it for a new tool?
Is it completely dead or does it make any sounds when the trigger is pulled?
I would first try another battery on the saw, and also the original battery on another tool if possible... it could be a bad battery? If its not a bad battery, possibly a bad battery contact where the battery clips in? If this all looks good, then possibly a fault in the speed control / switch / motor wires... It could be a number of different things. If it is a problem with the speed control, like a bad component, its not something that can be repaired as the components are all potted so you'll likely have to buy a replacement part.
I would say the best option is to return the tool (to where you purchased it) and ask for a new one under warranty because once you open the tool and have a look inside, the service centre may not even want to look at it if you are unable to repair it yourself.
Hello Grant, Greetings again .... thank you very much for your answer, well ... I tested the tool with the original batteries of a drill, and nothing, it just emits a sound similar to as if the tool were with a brake. Is a more powerful battery necessary for this tool? I wonder since I tested with 1 original Dewalt 2Ah battery ... But I am very grateful to you Grant, greetings from Chile.
want to ask if someone know my dcs570 problem..why when i press the switch, firstly it working normally..but when i put it for about 10 minutes..and i press the switch again, its not working..and when i take off the battery, put it back to machine..its working again..for used it for break time not to long..it's ok..but if stop use about 10 minutes..that problem coming again and again..what should i do?
sorry if my english not so good..im from malaysia
Thanks for doing the teardown mate ,very interested to see that bearing and gear support plate ,I think it would be a fibre reinforced plastic to take the heat and stresses ,must be okay these saws have seen hard service for a few years now and I'm not aware of any problems. Merry Christmas from Australia.
Merry Christmas to you and the family. I’ll be tearing down my other tools in the near future... couple of Dewalt cordless drills, impact wrench, SDS hammer drill, Makita jigsaw, grinders, etc. will be interesting to see the build quality of those. Also thanks for the support and comments.
Grant Burton Just as a matter of interest if you can remember, was there a ball bearing or bushing in the housing where the shaft goes into the housing at 8.35 thanks?
interman 77 Unfortunately I can’t remember and I’m not anywhere near my original footage to have a closer look. Also, I’ll only be able to open it up again in a few days to confirm for you. Hopefully I remember.
Grant Burton Don't disassemble it again on my account mate , btw I just watched this video again and I think you're correct about the "teal coloured tools " not letting their quality slip .
Hi interman 77, I opened up the gearbox to have a look at that bearing for you and posted the video here th-cam.com/video/CZEkC3bHx0U/w-d-xo.html
Hello Grant, just out of interest where did you buy this saw? Living in ireland Im having trouble finding this saw with the rafter hook!
Great video of both the teardown and the saw review,
Keep it up!
Hi, I purchased my saw from Amazon. At the time, it was the only one available for shipping to South Africa so I purchased it and it luckily had the rafter hook. Thanks for the comment and for watching and if you are interested, maybe check out some of my other teardown videos of the other DeWALT products I've purchased.
Great Video Grant, and big thumbs up! Whilst you were “inside the bowels” of the beast, did you see anything that could cause or make a rattling or clicking noise? You mentioned a board or something that seemed loose, at some point in the video? I have a DCS 578 60 volt, and when I pick it up, and move it up and down, there is a distinct, but not loud, clicking noise from within the saw. This is only noticed when it isn’t running. And if I pick it up off the bench easy like, it doesn’t seem to make the noise? Saw runs well, and blade spins true, and the brake works. It’s just weird to hear that noise. One wonders, what is loose or moving around inside?! Thanks and cheers! ✌🏻👍🇺🇸😁
Hi George, I wonder if it's not a RFID tag that has become unstuck from the inside of the casing and is floating and bumping around? I believe many tools now days have these little anti-theft tags inside. I would imagine that would sound like a small piece of plastic bouncing around when you shake the tool. The loose board I was referring to is at 11:39 and I suppose it is possible for that to rattle around but I've shaked mine saw around and I don't hear any rattling. Keep well.
@@GrantBurton Hi Grant, Thank You for the reply! I wondered about the blade mount so I went to pull out the blade wrench from the base, and I discovered, much to my chagrin, it was causing the noise. 😳🙄 The blade wrench is just loose enough in the housing, to cause the rattling noise. Your suggestion of the RFID tag was great however. Already a Subscriber, but definitely would be now! 😁. About the drill chucks, You might take the special drill bit from a Kreg kit, to check out a drill. I’ve found my bit to run very true, and I use it to check out any drill I purchase. I also use a Freud Forstner bit as they are machined to high standards. Enjoy your content! Please stay safe and Healthy! 👍👍👍✌🏻😁
Haha... just before posting my previous reply, I quickly went down to shake my saw and also heard a rattle and for a second I thought to myself 'but wait, my saw also rattles' and then I remembered the blade wrench tool, pulled it out and the rattle was gone...thats when I gave it a good shake to see if that small board was making a noise. haha.
As for the drill, maybe I'll setup a dial gauge and measure it with the shaft of an 8mm tap. This past weekend I actually tested a new chuck for my drill press. Its a PORTA Keyless chuck (1 - 13mm B16 - MT2) and if I was measuring correctly, the quill / arbour of the drill press measured a runout of 0.01mm and the shaft of the 8mm tap clamped into the chuck measured a runout of 0.09mm... so i guess the chuck has a runout of 0.08mm. I didn't measure the runout of the old key chuck that was in the press because i could see the runout by eye... haha.
Thanks for the support and great chatting with you.
@@GrantBurton Grant, that is funny. I do appreciate your replies and following up on me. Yeah, it is a shame, as it seems like as Technology advances, some of the older established ‘norms,’ seem to take a hit on quality? There is still quality stuff out there, if a person wants to pay the price. We all live in a ‘throw away’ Society, as you know. Do try out a good quality Forstner bit, as they are machined to closer tolerances, and I think it helps to see how good or bad runout is in a tool/ Chuck, etc. Am Looking forward to upcoming videos. If you need an old tool to tear down, maybe I can help? I have a whole wall of them! 😳😬🤔😄😁😂. Grant and everyone stay safe and Healthy!!! 👍👍👍✌🏻😁 🇿🇦🇺🇸
i would be more impressed if you put it back together
Hi Bart, It went back together fairly easily... haha. Check out the update video where I partially disassembled it again. th-cam.com/video/CZEkC3bHx0U/w-d-xo.html
@@GrantBurton Haha, great job ! thanx !
need to Tear down my Ridgid R4516 Table saw and Grease the Bearings
Hi Joni... I'm not too familiar with the bearing design on table saws but I would guess they use standard size sealed bearings? Maybe if they are cheap enough, its worth throwing in a new set rather than greasing up the old ones... unless the old ones are still in good condition?
Mine is brand new won't come on
Hi James, if it's brand new, I would not mess with it and rather return it and get a replacement or a refund? Are you able to check if the battery is working?
Please let me know if it worked afterwards 🤣🤣🤣🤣. Jokes aside, it looks great. You should actually do a test on a piece of lumber to see how long the battery will last per single charge cycle. I'm interested to see how long it will last under full load.
Hi Henry, it certainly did work afterwards... haha. Luckily these tools are not that difficult to teardown and put back together... a little like a 'kit' build product. I'll keep that in mind for a future video... I have a few different cordless tools, maybe I'll do runtime tests on all of them in a single video.
I was doing a 26 foot wall 16" on center, and my 5ah battery made it 2/3 of the day of framing.
Looks like the blade is backwards 🤭🤭
Hello and well spotted. A few minutes prior to filming, I removed the blade and was taking some measurements on the tool and once complete, I quickly popped the blade back on to the saw (as you pointed out, obviously not in the correct orientation) just for the intro of the video, knowing that I would remove the blade again a few minutes later... haha. When the blade is on this saw, with the label side facing out, the teeth point forward. That’s pretty awesome that you picked that up though, not many people notice that (or maybe they do but don't comment). Thanks for the heads up and the comment.
Come on man
When I changed the blade on my saw and tightened it down the arbor lock seemed to not release fully and it brakes really hard. Tried 3 different times. And...it is not smooth.
Hi Merrill, It sounds like something has gone wrong with the arbor lock mechanism on the inside. You'll probably have to open it up and have a look... I could only assume the steel part of the lock that is on the motor has become bent and is rubbing on something inside.
Does the lock lever still feel normal when you press it and let it spring back?
to many addds what joke
Hi Josh, thanks... removed some of them (Auto mid-roll ads placed way to many).