The Best Trick to Fix Chimney Leaks
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ส.ค. 2024
- This video shows where chimneys leak and the Best trick to Fix Chimney Leaks.
Flashing is the most common cause of leaks in a chimney. Usually, caulking is used to seal the flashing to the bricks. This caulking never lasts and causes more problems.
Super Silicone Seal and Turbo Poly Seal
FTC Affiliate Disclaimer - I get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.
Chapters:
0:00 Best Trick to Fix Chimney Leaks
0:17 Chimney Crown
0:44 Flashing
2:00 Masking Tape
2:25 Turbo Poly Seal
3:00 Fleece
3:40 2nd Coat - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Just came across this video which addresses actually one of the issues im dealing with ... so far the best one solution (n makes so much sense) among all the ones I've watched so far. Now I gonna browse through your previous podcasts to see how I should deal with the mortar falling apart and the cracks on the crown lol ... many thanks
Excellent camera work and explaining the job making it easy for anyone
Yes, nice work for both of you...what a team effort, please do more.
Thank you! Will do!
Well done Mr. & Mrs. - Short video and I learned so much - Thk you
Love the video from you and your lovely wife it was very informative and I plan on doing this very thing on my chimney . Thanks so much to you both.
Our pleasure!
Here in Blighty we tend to use lead for flashing, chased into the brickwork
Thank you very much; so helpful; I have this same problem with a limestone chimney.
Nice team, that's the way to work, thank you for sharing your experiences.
Great information and experience to teach a cure for re-dos and leaks that cause costly damage. Which causes more intense work👍
thanks
Very nice, good job explaining why caulking does not work
Great work and thank you both
Very nice video. Thank you for the knowledge.
Thank you. Excellent information and instruction.
Thank you for taking the time👍🙏
Thank you so much for this helpful video definitely help me out. im first time home buyer with home with two chimney it help me out alot
Very informative! I am trying to fix leak where the roof connects to my chimney so I can stop the spread of water damage and mold. You guys make a cute couple.
liquid flex seal worked best for me
Greatest voice and the videos are so soothing for some reason! haha
Great video..thanks so much...probably saved me a fortune.
She's a committed photographer getting up on a sloped roof. Nice work!
thanks
What a sweet, hard-working couple!
Loved the video and information shared.......Wish you were in GA. This is the problem I have been having for 4 years. I see where little branches are growing in the step out brick. I paid a company $1100 to stop the chimney leak (water leaking in fireplace). After he did his job the leak continued. He could not figure out where the water was coming in at. The water is causing my sheetrock above the mantle to crack. I now realize my chimney gets wider and wider from the top to the mid section. Little step outs.
I have spoken with 3 contractors who work with brick. 1) One wanted $2000 just from looking at the photos taken with my phone. 2) Another wanted $1500 and spoke about painting with something - that scared me cause I don't want paint on my chimney. 3) Wanted $900, but was 95% sure he could fix the leak. However if he had to go higher than where the the little branches growing in the chimney are (2/3rds), it would cost me more money. I really need someone that is 100% able to stop the leak.
It is one of the hardest things to find, that someone. All these years me fixing chimneys, I still haven't found all the solutions. It is difficult to always see where the water is coming in.
I suggest to find a mason that have repaired brickwork a lot. Without any pictures it would be hard for me to determine the problem too.
Thanks for the tutorial !
You guys did a great job great team
Awesome great team work love it 💖
Thank you for the tip!
Thank you so much for this video. It saved me $2700
Great video I needed to see this
Love your video!
Beautiful couple thank you !
Nice team work!! thanks for introducing your lovely wife at the end!!
never seen this method before the fleece plus liquid tar?applied on flashing learn something new !!
please be safe!!
fantastic!!!
Very nice, thanks
I used this product and it works well. But i believe its important to inspect this repair annually. After two yrs I've noticed some minimal deterioration. Still, easy to fix again.
Very usefull information ❤
Thank you Sir! 👍🏼 for you and your wife!
Nice work sweetheart 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you 😊
Thank you!!!
Great video. I was hoping to see how to repair the crown. Is it the same?
Great instructional video. I can’t find what you use as the fleece? Do you have a pic of the product?
Thank you!
Great video sir. I’m a chimney professional and I back up every word you said
Thank you im having a leak im hoping this will fix it 😁👍🏽
Thank you
Good work
Thanks
Good job you can use good silicon for that flashing just make sure it is very clean before you put it on clean with the alcohol first then put the silicone on
I’m going to get bergstrom turbo poly seal and get started with the transitions on the flashing on my roof.
I parged the parapet wall with tar some years ago and it is pulling away causing leaks. Should I clean the tar away from the wall before covering with the turbo poly seal? What’s the preparation steps for a successful project?
Sorpresa tras sorpresa en todas las reparaciones 👏
mucha gracias
I was just wondering if you remove the caulking all the way around first before applying the Turbo Seal. Thank you.
Had to watch this one to see your fix...you are absolutely correct about the caulking on the flue cover and the tar on the mortar cap. Caulking is a proper application at the riglet cut counter flashing. The error is the type of caulking used and the preparation to the surface the caulking is to adhere to. Turbo Poly Seal would be a reasonable repair, but you should still properly prep the surface area (remove old caulking, clean the surface area of metal and brick); then and only then proceed with repair. Good job on taping off area , but with this you must insure that after the removal of the tape, a point of water intrusion has not been created. Discuss with your audience the wicking aspects of mortar and brick.
good comment. If the brick soaks up water, then you have a major problem. The wrong bricks were used
The reason the caulk failed is because the roofer who flashed the chimney didn't install the correct reglet edge when installing the copper flashing. When you install the flashing you have to bend the metal 90 degrees to fit into the masonry cut but you have to bend the back of that metal towards the front 3/16"-1/4". When installing the cut groove needs to be caulked first and then install the metal pieces. Those pieces need to be secured with lead wedges inserted and pounded in with metal bar. Then you can fill the joint with the same caulk an smooth over. Caulk and mortar will never hold if the reglet edge isn't returned.
Nice video sir. Make sure to wear safety gears before climbing that roof. I know you are pro but it happens to the best. Stay safe.
Can you use Henrys Wet Patch roof leak repair to seal an area by the spark arrestor where water is getting in?
Great Video! Thank you for explaining everything so clearly! Also, your wife is BEAUTIFUL!!!!
So any "polyseal" is good? Also can I use painters tape for the masking tape?
Is there anything that can be done in the meantime to prevent water leaking into the loft space from within the loft itself? Rain water is running down at the area of the chimney. Would a tin of liquid fibre glass and brush be a quick fix? The idea of a mason never occured before. Thank you both. Great team work!
i used liquid flex seal and it worked perfect, btw it was very expensive
Is it a good idea to turbo poly seal over tar?
Can you paint a chimney with masonry paint to seal it
my sky light is leaking, i would like to use that kind of seal to try to fix it. would you please tell me the polyseal name, i didn"t get it. thanks
Will the poly seal stick to the black sealant on the crown? And the caulking on the flashing at the bottom?
Very nice.
What is a "bergstrom"?
Hey Naas -- If I were to buy you some Latex or Nitrile gloves, would you wear them?!?
going to seal my chimney cap with the super silicone seal in a couple weeks-- wish me luck! (I think I'll wear gloves-can't imagine that cleanup)
My question is do you remove all the silicone before you use the Turbo Poly seal? Thanks for replying
Also can you go back over the poly seal with more poly seal years later?
by the way whats the purpose for lay tapes between layers?
You gotta use the correct caulk, silicone. Then apply somethibg like masonry defender waterproofer to the brick and the paintable product to the crown.
What a lucky man
I'm not sure what you mean by fleece or where to get it. Happen to have a link to it? Or is that just standard sewing material that is being used to help act as a reinforcement?
What was the secret sauce in the bucket ?
Damn. I hate that roof slope. I have similar and hard to get up there.
Nice work. A bit worried about your safety on what appears to be a steep roof as I didn’t see a harnesses..
Dear Flat Roof Doctor, I have had a problem with water leaking from chimney into my attic. If I send you some pictures of the problem, are you willing to take a look and offer your advice as to what may be causing the leak?
Maybe your repair with that black goop and fabric will work, but the traditional method is to cut out the mortar and bend over the flashing into the groove and mortar the flashing in place.
Agree looks like a botch job to me
Blimey nice job getting your Mrs up on a roof .😄😄👍👍
Will turbo seal stick to silicone?
nothing sticks to silicone
I'm glad I stuck around for the whole video, your wife is beautiful!! And your work was ok I guess.
Clear or metal colored Triploymer sealant would have been much better to use
My house doesn't even have a fireplace but I kinda want one now!
Turbo poly will not last adhering to oxidized copper. You should have run a wire wheel on the copper to remove the oxidation.
I'm no expert, but it seems to me that your problem isn't the caulk, but rather improper installation of flashing. You need counter flashing embedded in the brick over your base flashing. Don't rely on caulk, Polyseal, or any roof cement! Just install flashing properly.
that is the logic. But this logic has failed on so many chimneys. The embedded flashing is never deep enough, slanted upwards. So, yes, there is always a better way, but this video show after the fact and not when a new chimney is being build. Your solution is not to help someone now but rather help someone who still wants to build a chimney.
All my videos are to help someone with a problem that they inherited. To do it the way you suggest, is to tear down the chimney and start over again. In Connecticut, that could easily cost 10- 20k to do.
So what would you prefer, to spend that $15000 or to DIY with $150 of material.
@@FlatRoofDoctor Why would you tear down the chimney? I agree 100% that would be ridiculous. Use an angle grinder to clean out and/or cut slots in the mortar, then repoint and embed flashing properly (straight and deep) in the new mortar. Sounds like we agree that proper installation of flashing is key, but often overlooked.
@@edwallace827you mean remove the bricks and add flashing behind the bricks. Which requires demolition of the current structure
@@edwallace827You're right, installing flashing properly would be appropriate, and not cost $10,000
Gosh you are the worst bodge up man I have ever seen. You have absolutely NO IDEA ABOUT FLAT ROOFING OR CHIMNEYS shocking work you would be locked up in uk for shoddy work like that
Looks easy with Three hands
Good work Sir to undertake and remediate what is shoody workmanship, the copper appears to be a replacement of the former lead flashings, sadly the young trademen of today are so very poorly educated and more importantly untrained and or mentored, therefore they embark and place sole reliance upon interim tubes of sealant without ever cutting out joints adequately, prime the joints and therefore leave feathered edges to peel back and commence the process of failed leaking joints all over again. The levels of literacy and numeracy is so appalling and to such a degree that they cannot read the instructions on the tubes of sealant which a usually very informative, believe me I have seen this groupthink theme rconsistently recurring throughout all sectors of the construction industry after having been in the construction business for over 60 years KPP
Do you own part in Turbo Poly Seal ?
why not chisle the grout out and grout it again?
Good , but you never explain what kinda material you are using?
Toilet paper and nutella
You see. Just like that. You see. Turbo poly seal, yes.j7st like thar give me some fleece. ....Let me show you ⁵Where's the fleece, what you mean you use the last fleece for tp?....
I don't understand . Flashing is supposed to be chased in
Is that a South African accent I can hear?
I'm giving you a second thumbs up for your beautiful wife
now we talking, thanks
Good Job and the wifes beautiful
Bandaid solution. It'll make the correct repair even harder and more expensive down the road.
This is a flammable liquid it’s not cold to be on the chimney do you have to use flash seal not this poly stuff sorry great video though I love your wife
As long as you love my wife, I am happy
We are big buddies then
You have a lovely wife
Bodger
i love the videos you put out but i disagree with this product for this leak, no offense but that looks like shit
Why not just re-set the lead and re-point it properly🙄?... looks like another bodge up job that .... a paint brush has got no business on any roof... hate to be that nxt guy that comes along and has to try and clean it all off ..not to mention the fact he got more on himself than he did the chimney... totally unnecessary.... UK ROOFERS = NO1
You only prevent leaks from happening again but don’t fix the problem 100%. What about the rotten wood. Easy money in and out and the wood will remain wet and rotten for years. Probably even with mold
you show your ignorance. It is very very seldom that the leak causes rot. Also, by stopping water from leaking in, anything that was wet underneath would dry up within a few days. Nothing can stay wet for years without a supply of water. You assume there is rot every time there is a leak. In that case, all the millions of people will have to remove the roofing around that area just to find out there is nothing. Paranoia will make you overthink and overreact in most cases. Life is not that complicated.
If I was overthinking my trip to the store in a car or a bike, I might not go anywhere because I might just think that somehow someone will cross the center line and kill me head-on. That is more possible than getting rot from a leak on a chimney. So, which one should I worry about more?
So to put it in your words, I should be in an accident every time I drive out on the road.
I am a roofer and have been fixing leaks for over 30 years. I should know. I also have been driving for over 48 years too.
Narrow escapes I had, and so is it with leaks, if not taken care of, could lead to rot, but not immediately.
Just spray inside with Shockwave if your concerned.
Hey, if he didn't fall through the roof....the wood's probably fine.
Or you could actually fix the problems and repoint the Damage mortar instead of smearing a bunch of goo on a what you called Beautiful flashing job if that's all you can afford well I get it it's better than damaging the rest of your home but it is still a Band-Aid this is not a lifetime fixed nor is it even a great idea
Re-pointing does not work. I have seen that over many years
Not how you fix a chimney yuck 🤮
Let's stop now,health and safety first, could have fallen off just now and what a bodge this man is making, rake out all old debris and report with mortar, what's he going to do with the cracks on top of the chimney fill that up with crap so when you look up your see a horrible black stain all around your chimney, rake the lot out reflaunce the chimney top