Thank you this video was invaluable for a problem. I was having that nobody could answer until I watched your video and just wanna let you know how much I appreciate it.
This is very helpful for newbies like myself. I would like to add that to be on the safe side, make sure your rig is as level as possible and i would think it would be wise to carry a block of wood to place under the jack because you could be stranded on soft or sandy soil. Also, carry caution triangles to place well behind your rig to warn traffic coming your way. There is no need of getting killed over a flat tire.
Yes definitely wise to carry blocks and rig is level. There are some circumstances where it's better to just wait for help as well. Good suggestion on the triangles. I don't think my emergency kit includes those so I will add that to the list.
Great presentation. I have a slow leak from the right, inside tire and this is a job I can easily do. It'll be a matter of taking the tire to the shop for repair.
I am slowly equipping my new rv that I finally received 3 weeks ago, I have added a deep socket with 2 extension bars a half inch ratchet with a pipe for handle extension( not realizing that there is a tool kit under the front carpet, off course it is useless for taking out the rear rims) which I nest with the bottle jack. This motorhome never come with spare tire, so I am planning to buy one, if I ever get a flat, at least I can have it changed and keep going, instead of waiting for help on the side of the road somewhere stressing out myself and also by my other half, I try the auto stabilization system, it is amazing that they lift the front wheels off the ground to achieve the task, so I think the system helps with the safety issue during tire change, a safety stand and torque wrench are good add on, ( that will definitely cut unto the cargo capacity of how little this sprinter rv carries, my rv is rated for less than 800lbs, the class C I replaced E 450 has a 2800 lb cargo rating) now every piece of add on has to be weighted and consider, thanks for doing this video. By the way, Where do you carry your spare on the Winnebago?
I've wondered how these rear wheels were set up. I didn't realize that both wheels were secured to one common lug. I've never had a dual tire setup before. Thanks for the video, and the tips for getting it off and on!
No problem. Yes the dual wheels are basically pinched together on the same lug. There is a hub (center circle part) that the rims rest on to keep them centered.
While on our bucket list trip to Alaska and the Arctic Ocean we got two flat tires driving on the Dempster Hwy (600 miles of gravel road each way) in Canada. You should never use a torque wrench to break loose lug nuts. Always use a beaker bar for this. I carried both of these with us but also had a Makita battery powered impact wrench. You need the heavy duty 1/2 inch drive along with the impact sockets. Having this tool with saved me from a lot of difficult and time consuming wrenching. Good luck.
Yes I can probably get by with just a breaker bar. Torque can be checked at a tire shop after. I do need to add a 1/2 inch impact wrench to my tool kit still.
I have not used it yet. I bought an electric impact wrench from Lowes. I carry it and an extention cord. Just start the generator and have at it. I also ordered one of those jack cumbos like what you have there. The impact wrench comes with the correct sockets foe lug nuts
I like the jack combo. It has served well. I really need to get an electric impact like you got. I could probably use it for regular chassis work without having to fight the air hose on my air tools, and much easier on the body than regular tools.
Thanks for warning us about the extensions required for the rear wheel. Going to go grab some to keep in my RV just in case. However, I don't believe it is a good idea to use a torque wrench to remove lug nuts. My understanding is that you are going to wear out the calibration really quickly by doing that. It's meant only for short burst of pressure not sustained pressure. I'd recommend just getting a breaker bar since those are way cheaper than a torque wrench.
Yes all true and good points on the torque wrench. I keep my breaker bar and good torque wrench at home, and keep an old torque wrench in the RV so I don't worry too much about its calibration. Probably should have stated more on that in the video.
Great heads up video and good comments below. Just want to mention that it appears your bottom leaf spring is resting on the exhaust pipe. I don't think it is suppose to do that.
One wheel on my sprinter had the tightest lug nuts I've ever seen. The lug nut wrench that the van came with completely shattered at the socket portion after having to use a 2ft bar on it. Then the lug nut proceeded to brake my craftsman 1/2" ratchet driver. I should have just used a breaker bar, but I just ended up buying a 3/4" driver instead. Finally I got them loose, but if I had to change my wheel on the road, that Mercedes wrench would have left me stranded. I recommend everyone just bring your breaker bar and impact rated socket (they're thicker).
am i to understand that if you're driving your dually RV thru the middle of nowhere , it's a good idea to carrry 3 spares mounted on 3 different wheels
You probably know that you’re not supposed to use the torque wrench to loosen things. That said you don’t need to be super accurate with torque settings on lug nuts.
Yes I thought I said that in the video. I don't want to carry a breaker bar and a torque wrench together, and I have an extra torque wrench on hand that I keep in the RV now.
my Sprinter is not a dually and I always wondered how these rear wheels are setup. thanks for showing. Quick question: does the bottom leaf spring really rests on top of the exhaust when the suspension is not under compression 9:25 ? This is probably the same Winnebago side exhaust I also had on my Revel. Somewhat bad design by WB if it really hit the exhaust
The bottom leaf is almost touching the exhaust because the leveling jacks are really extended fully, so the body is lifted above typical suspension travel. The entire rear axle is off the ground in the video with a jack stand under the axle just for safety. Looks bad in the video, but in reality, they would not touch during normal suspension travel.
I’m working to add a steel wheel spare to my rig. I have 4 Alcoa on my rig, 2 rear inners are steel. Question- for front tires I see in the MB manual that you need to use shorter lug bolts than the aluminum rims use, so I’m trying to buy some. Did you have to use different bolts on the back when you used a steel spare with the inner steel wheel? If so, what?
No you can use the existing lugs(bolts). The aluminum rim is thicker than the steel. A longer bolt is not an issue. The nut is a hex type nut with free spinning washer and not a conical nut. Conical nuts would bottom out on a longer bolt but the factory hex nut won't. Hope that helps.
@@rvlifediyokay I see that now. Rears use nuts not bolts. I think front wheels are bolts, and that is where you need a steel (shorter) length right? So, the nuts on my Alcoa rears would work okay on a steel outer rim? Or, do I need a different nut type?
@KirklandHoffs fronts are nuts too. They use the bolts on the 2500 and 1500 chassis. Same nuts are used on the aluminum or steel. This is for the 3500 view chassis.
Outstanding. Wow, I was so confused by what I’d seen on the web, and even what I read in the MB manual. I double checked the front under one of the decorative nut covers. Just as you said! Thanks for clearing this up!
@@KirklandHoffs Your original question also confused me. Typical auto has the lugs (bolts) that come from behind the hub/rotor, and you attach a nut. I thought you were referring to that. But mercedes sprinter for whatever reason, has some models (lower weight models), that use bolts that go into threads of the hub. Typically most autos have the bolt/lugs attached to the hub like the 3500 sprinter. Yes that manual is confusing lol. Now I see why you had that question.
great video how do you like these tires compared to the originals that came with the rv? did you notice a ride difference? did you go a size bigger of you could of for a better ride ?
I liked the michelins better than the oem continentals. Seems a little softer ride but nothing highly noticeable. I didn't go bigger either though I wanted to. The rims are not sized for a larger tire.
All the wheels are the same, and yes the wheel is just flipped depending on which wheel it is. You mentioned you have an airstream (is it the Atlas)? The Winnebago has aluminum wheels on the exterior dually, but the interior dually is a steel wheel (same size and can be interchanged to any wheel-just ugly). I'm not sure if airstream does that or not. Some manufacturers will use aluminum wheels on all 4 of the duallys.
Yes. It's identical to the inner dually and made of steel instead of aluminum so slightly thinner in material. But can be used in either position front and back inner or outer. And good question because some spares for dually wheels are position sensitive.
It looks like you're using two extensions. I measured the depth from the lug nut to clearing the overhang, and comfortably it measured 16 inches. Curious how many inches long are your two extensions put together there?
I'll have to measure when I get home. I used 2 pieces because that is what I had for spares in my toolbox. Will let you know. It may not be until tomorrow. Just FYI.
Yes I think this would work for many. The only issue I see is that wheel well is kind of hard to work within the small opening and having to leverage the lug nuts off )especially when some of the tire shops over torque them) will be tough with a short bar.
![วันเกิดเธอ (TO YOU) - PHUWIN [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_ROx1Bj3T0Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for the video. I like that you 1. used the heavy gloves 2. recommended the extension and 3. showed the actual removal.
Thank you
Thank you this video was invaluable for a problem. I was having that nobody could answer until I watched your video and just wanna let you know how much I appreciate it.
Thank you. Glad it helped.
Torque wrenches aren't meant to be used as regular wrenches, they can handle the rated torque when tightining but way lower torque when loosening.
This is very helpful for newbies like myself. I would like to add that to be on the safe side, make sure your rig is as level as possible and i would think it would be wise to carry a block of wood to place under the jack because you could be stranded on soft or sandy soil.
Also, carry caution triangles to place well behind your rig to warn traffic coming your way. There is no need of getting killed over a flat tire.
Yes definitely wise to carry blocks and rig is level. There are some circumstances where it's better to just wait for help as well. Good suggestion on the triangles. I don't think my emergency kit includes those so I will add that to the list.
Great presentation. I have a slow leak from the right, inside tire and this is a job I can easily do. It'll be a matter of taking the tire to the shop for repair.
Thanks for watching.
I am slowly equipping my new rv that I finally received 3 weeks ago, I have added a deep socket with 2 extension bars a half inch ratchet with a pipe for handle extension( not realizing that there is a tool kit under the front carpet, off course it is useless for taking out the rear rims) which I nest with the bottle jack. This motorhome never come with spare tire, so I am planning to buy one, if I ever get a flat, at least I can have it changed and keep going, instead of waiting for help on the side of the road somewhere stressing out myself and also by my other half, I try the auto stabilization system, it is amazing that they lift the front wheels off the ground to achieve the task, so I think the system helps with the safety issue during tire change, a safety stand and torque wrench are good add on, ( that will definitely cut unto the cargo capacity of how little this sprinter rv carries, my rv is rated for less than 800lbs, the class C I replaced E 450 has a 2800 lb cargo rating) now every piece of add on has to be weighted and consider, thanks for doing this video. By the way, Where do you carry your spare on the Winnebago?
Winnebago has a spare surprisingly. It's will be the next video. It's under the back
You may be able to upgrade the weight. All the best and CONGRATULATIONS! ☺
I've wondered how these rear wheels were set up. I didn't realize that both wheels were secured to one common lug. I've never had a dual tire setup before. Thanks for the video, and the tips for getting it off and on!
No problem. Yes the dual wheels are basically pinched together on the same lug. There is a hub (center circle part) that the rims rest on to keep them centered.
While on our bucket list trip to Alaska and the Arctic Ocean we got two flat tires driving on the Dempster Hwy (600 miles of gravel road each way) in Canada. You should never use a torque wrench to break loose lug nuts. Always use a beaker bar for this. I carried both of these with us but also had a Makita battery powered impact wrench. You need the heavy duty 1/2 inch drive along with the impact sockets. Having this tool with saved me from a lot of difficult and time consuming wrenching. Good luck.
Yes I can probably get by with just a breaker bar. Torque can be checked at a tire shop after. I do need to add a 1/2 inch impact wrench to my tool kit still.
Will be travelling the Dempster this summer, were the tires patchable? Will be bringing a patch kit for sure.
I take an impact driver, makes it real simple.
I need to buy one for sure.
I have not used it yet. I bought an electric impact wrench from Lowes. I carry it and an extention cord. Just start the generator and have at it. I also ordered one of those jack cumbos like what you have there. The impact wrench comes with the correct sockets foe lug nuts
I like the jack combo. It has served well. I really need to get an electric impact like you got. I could probably use it for regular chassis work without having to fight the air hose on my air tools, and much easier on the body than regular tools.
Thanks for warning us about the extensions required for the rear wheel. Going to go grab some to keep in my RV just in case. However, I don't believe it is a good idea to use a torque wrench to remove lug nuts. My understanding is that you are going to wear out the calibration really quickly by doing that. It's meant only for short burst of pressure not sustained pressure. I'd recommend just getting a breaker bar since those are way cheaper than a torque wrench.
Yes all true and good points on the torque wrench. I keep my breaker bar and good torque wrench at home, and keep an old torque wrench in the RV so I don't worry too much about its calibration. Probably should have stated more on that in the video.
With respect NEVER misuse an expensive well engineered tool when a simple bog standard breaker bar is all that's needed! ☺
Totally understand.
@@rvlifediy The vehicle manufacturers save money and do not really care. The wise know this and -PLAN! ☺
@@gereshomeE yes plan
Best plan ahead before bad things happen, it is only a matter of when.
@@yewlingchan465 May God help you and your family! ✝️🙏
Great heads up video and good comments below. Just want to mention that it appears your bottom leaf spring is resting on the exhaust pipe. I don't think it is suppose to do that.
It's line that because I have the entire RV lifted by the body and not the suspension. So the entire suspension is drooping. Hope that makes sense.
One wheel on my sprinter had the tightest lug nuts I've ever seen. The lug nut wrench that the van came with completely shattered at the socket portion after having to use a 2ft bar on it. Then the lug nut proceeded to brake my craftsman 1/2" ratchet driver. I should have just used a breaker bar, but I just ended up buying a 3/4" driver instead. Finally I got them loose, but if I had to change my wheel on the road, that Mercedes wrench would have left me stranded. I recommend everyone just bring your breaker bar and impact rated socket (they're thicker).
Yes a breaker bar is definitely a safer bet. Those tire changing shops are known to way overtighten the lugnuts.
I just removed my Merecedes Sprinter Winniebago Balmoral front wheels today. Lucky I had a DeWalt rattle gun to remove the lug nuts
going to attempt the rear wheels tomorrow
Definitely easier with a proper impact gun.
Wel
I know what I need for my airstream RV cus same wheel
Thanks for the help
No problem.
Awesome video and instructions! Thankfully I didn’t have to do that work.
I wish I didn't have to do that either but waiting on coachnet was beyond my patience level.
Great video! Thanks for making this!
Thanks for watching
Isn’t there some alignment pins to make sure the dialog wheels mount snug to the hub? I do appreciate you showing how to do a change. Thanks
Not that I recall. It's a hub centered wheel so the hub itself does the alignment.
Your videos are great help. Thanks.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Wasn't prepared for this stuff.
I don't think any of us are, but you learn as you go.
am i to understand that if you're driving your dually RV thru the middle of nowhere , it's a good idea to carrry 3 spares mounted on 3 different wheels
No. You only need 1 spare tire. The wheels fit in any position front or back.. You should flip the wheel inside out depending on the tire position.
You probably know that you’re not supposed to use the torque wrench to loosen things. That said you don’t need to be super accurate with torque settings on lug nuts.
Yes I thought I said that in the video. I don't want to carry a breaker bar and a torque wrench together, and I have an extra torque wrench on hand that I keep in the RV now.
Thanks another great video!
Glad it helped.
awesome. thanks.
my Sprinter is not a dually and I always wondered how these rear wheels are setup. thanks for showing. Quick question: does the bottom leaf spring really rests on top of the exhaust when the suspension is not under compression 9:25 ? This is probably the same Winnebago side exhaust I also had on my Revel. Somewhat bad design by WB if it really hit the exhaust
The bottom leaf is almost touching the exhaust because the leveling jacks are really extended fully, so the body is lifted above typical suspension travel. The entire rear axle is off the ground in the video with a jack stand under the axle just for safety. Looks bad in the video, but in reality, they would not touch during normal suspension travel.
I’m working to add a steel wheel spare to my rig. I have 4 Alcoa on my rig, 2 rear inners are steel. Question- for front tires I see in the MB manual that you need to use shorter lug bolts than the aluminum rims use, so I’m trying to buy some. Did you have to use different bolts on the back when you used a steel spare with the inner steel wheel? If so, what?
No you can use the existing lugs(bolts). The aluminum rim is thicker than the steel. A longer bolt is not an issue. The nut is a hex type nut with free spinning washer and not a conical nut. Conical nuts would bottom out on a longer bolt but the factory hex nut won't. Hope that helps.
@@rvlifediyokay I see that now. Rears use nuts not bolts. I think front wheels are bolts, and that is where you need a steel (shorter) length right?
So, the nuts on my Alcoa rears would work okay on a steel outer rim? Or, do I need a different nut type?
@KirklandHoffs fronts are nuts too. They use the bolts on the 2500 and 1500 chassis. Same nuts are used on the aluminum or steel. This is for the 3500 view chassis.
Outstanding. Wow, I was so confused by what I’d seen on the web, and even what I read in the MB manual. I double checked the front under one of the decorative nut covers. Just as you said! Thanks for clearing this up!
@@KirklandHoffs Your original question also confused me. Typical auto has the lugs (bolts) that come from behind the hub/rotor, and you attach a nut. I thought you were referring to that. But mercedes sprinter for whatever reason, has some models (lower weight models), that use bolts that go into threads of the hub. Typically most autos have the bolt/lugs attached to the hub like the 3500 sprinter. Yes that manual is confusing lol. Now I see why you had that question.
great video how do you like these tires compared to the originals that came with the rv? did you notice a ride difference? did you go a size bigger of you could of for a better ride ?
I liked the michelins better than the oem continentals. Seems a little softer ride but nothing highly noticeable. I didn't go bigger either though I wanted to. The rims are not sized for a larger tire.
@@rvlifediy thanks for the fast response
nice video very helpful, thanks. is a 3 ton jack sufficient for lifting the rv?
Yes a 3 ton works fine. Just do one side of the axle at a time.
Are the front wheels the same as the inside rear dually and are the outside dually flipped front wheels?
All the wheels are the same, and yes the wheel is just flipped depending on which wheel it is. You mentioned you have an airstream (is it the Atlas)? The Winnebago has aluminum wheels on the exterior dually, but the interior dually is a steel wheel (same size and can be interchanged to any wheel-just ugly). I'm not sure if airstream does that or not. Some manufacturers will use aluminum wheels on all 4 of the duallys.
Newbie question: does the spare tire work for either the inner or the outer position of the dualy?
Yes. It's identical to the inner dually and made of steel instead of aluminum so slightly thinner in material. But can be used in either position front and back inner or outer. And good question because some spares for dually wheels are position sensitive.
@@rvlifediy thank you!
It looks like you're using two extensions. I measured the depth from the lug nut to clearing the overhang, and comfortably it measured 16 inches. Curious how many inches long are your two extensions put together there?
I'll have to measure when I get home. I used 2 pieces because that is what I had for spares in my toolbox. Will let you know. It may not be until tomorrow. Just FYI.
Just checked and the 2 extensions together were 15 inches.
How come you did not use the leveling jacks to raise it up?
It was raised up by the leveling jacks, but hard to tell. That is just a jack stand under the axle.
I've heard from the guy that used to have RVStreet (he passed away) that using the levelers as Jack's is a bad idea.
anyone??? Where is the jack point for the rear tires? Axle??
Yes the axle.
Get a Rattle Gun - much much easier !
Will get one in my tool arsenal soon.
Cut about 4 inches off of the length of the supplied breaker bar and now it will fit within within the wheel well problem solved
Yes I think this would work for many. The only issue I see is that wheel well is kind of hard to work within the small opening and having to leverage the lug nuts off )especially when some of the tire shops over torque them) will be tough with a short bar.
😀😃😄🙂🙃😊😇
👍