Thanks Jim! I was expecting that the cue ball was going to be a little smaller but it was the exact same size as the normal cue balls. Appreciate the info :)
Thank you! I use an app that's actually meant for Disc Golf called "Ace Trace". The app allows you to trace the path of your disc after you throw it but I had the idea of using it for pool instead LOL
@@bishopbilliards5650 Thank you for that Adam BB ;-) Are the blue lines (here th-cam.com/video/QnmoyFdv3JQ/w-d-xo.html ) showing the tangent line and the in off / scratch line lasers from the ceiling, or masking tape, or software based? Great work on these videos - i can see the time and passion that has gone into it!
@@bishopbilliards5650 And Ace Trace is on your phone on android? Or can be on a PC. I just had a look at their site and it seems it is only for android devices...?
The two lines represent the tangent line and a natural rolling path. The lines are on there from my projection system called Projection Pro Billiards. And thank you for noticing all the time that goes into these. I have made 3 other videos but haven't posted them because of all the time and effort it takes to edit them. Hoping to have one of them posted this month relating to "Pocket Cheat". Fingers crossed!
Hi John, yes you are the first to notice this. The Diamond Splicer stickers are $50 which is a bit too expensive for what you get. So I made my own with painters tape. I used Painter's tape because it doesn't leave behind any residue if I decide to remove them later. Total cost of doing it this way was less than a few dollars and you get the same result.
How about a video showing the effects of worn out (smaller diameter) balls rebounding off rails? If the center mass of a ball is below the rail, it should cause the ball to skid.
I'd like to see this video with pool balls that are actually common on tables. The only one I've seen that you use here is the red dot Aramith, and I'd be curious to know how that compares to the magnetic balls that are most common in bar tables. Only very old tables use the oversized balls, and I've yet to see one like that.
Hi John, is this the type of ball you are curious about? The Valley magnetic cue balls have similar weight to the Aramith cue ball. Let me know if this answers your question. th-cam.com/video/RbHACd8yymY/w-d-xo.html
@@bishopbilliards5650 It does answer my question - thank you! I'm also curious if having a piece of metal in the cue ball has any effect on how that cue ball plays, aside from being able to do tricks with it by using strong magnets. I guess if the metal is equal density to the phenolic resin, it might have a negligible effect, but experimentation would probably be the best way to figure that out. Now if we can only solve the mystery of why the cue ball and other balls sometimes go into the wrong chute. One time I felt pretty dumb looking for the seven ball EVERYWHERE except the cue ball return slot.
John you took the words right out of my keyboard. I would guess that if the metal and resin have the same or similar densities then the differences would be negligible. I don't currently have a magnetic cue ball but my have to get one someday. I would also have to think of a way to scientifically test the differences so I'll put that on the back burner for now until I think I can tackle that one. I know exactly what you mean by not finding the ball since it went down the wrong path. I have definitely gone through that experience more than a dozen times.
I have various cue balls. The Aramith Measle, Aramith red logo and Aramith green logo (magnetic and commonly found in bars) are all the same size and weight; however, the magnetic green logo clearly provides more action, ie. easier to draw and apply side spin.
There is another cueball that's made for the magnetic separators in coin tables, and it's called, in the industry, the "domestic" ball. It's manufactured inTexas, and it is not a phenolic ball but some other type if plastic, it is very inexpensive, and it actually has a weight similar to the oversized ball. It is difficult for players to adjust to from the standard weighted balls, and is usually pretty well out of round, especially after heavy use. It can be easily detected, besides its being overweight, by a slight grayish tint that is there due to the small iron filings impregnated in the entire ball, and which act as the attractant to the magnet inside the table, and thus causing the ball to separate from the object balls. PS : These balls are horrible to play with, especially for anyone with a modicum of experience with the regular balls, whether they be standard or magnetic. I recently returned to the game after a hiatus of ten years, and I was stupefied at how poor my game was on the local bar table. Even though I was aware of this ball's properties, I found it very difficult to achieve even a modest success at getting position. My experience actually worked to my detriment. These balls proliferate on bar tables throughout the land, no doubt due to the fact that the vendors install them because of their low cost, and the fact that bar patrons are not as likely to filfer them, like they are want to do with the better magnetic balls, since these 'domestic' balls are so horrible. I hope that eventually they become obsolete, and that they completely disappear from the scene, just as the old style oversized cue ball finally has done. Great video on the subject, BTW, and I'm very glad to see that someone finally has addressed this topic. Good job! PPS: The newer bar tables, or coin operated tables, are now using a completely different system for separation of the balls. The new system uses a Lazer to identify the cueball, and therefore the cueball has exactly the same size, weight, and properties as the object balls, and plays much the same as any standard cueball. Hooray for technology!
Cool video but there is a flaw in your method. If a cue ball is larger than the object ball, the contact point will change. It will be over 1.125 inches off the table and the cue ball will be hitting down on the object ball. The physics will be altered. If you really want to test this you will need cue balls that are identical in all ways except for the weight. Thanks for the video though.
The fact that the large cue ball moves forward after contact has nothing to do with weight. When 2 balls are the same size the tangent line is 90° vertical to the table. When they are different sizes the 90° line is shifted away from the larger ball. A pure guess would be 80° from the bed of the table. That proves that the larger ball must move forward, regardless of weight.
I really liked your first two videos, keep up the workl. I would like to see more. The flaw was an honest mistake, we all make them. An addendum video would be nice, if you are convinced that what I am saying is correct.
Hi Scott I agree with what you are saying and I decided to leave this out of the video because I believed it was negligible compared to the weight difference (I wanted to keep the focus on weight alone but maybe should have put a small footnote in the video). I cannot find another large cue ball that is lighter than the one I have now. I doubt there is a ball that is manufactured to properly test this out. If you find one please let me know and I could do more tests on this.
Valley had a metal flake cue balls very heavy the extra weight made using it to plow thru any clusterI won a 96 man tournament by knowing of it mass and power.
Learned a lot here. Including that Americans call screw 'draw'. Did not know you could buy heavier balls either. Great vids on your channel.
Great work, dude! This was all kinda hazy to me so thanks for a nice disciplined approach to the answers.
Thank you Jason!
This was more interesting even than the last one that I watched.
Thank you! Glad you liked them both.
The 4 ounce cue ball is made out of a plastic called styrene. Most of them being made in the 60s for very inexpensive pool tables
Thanks Jim! I was expecting that the cue ball was going to be a little smaller but it was the exact same size as the normal cue balls. Appreciate the info :)
Nice video! How do you draw the CB path in the video?
Thank you! I use an app that's actually meant for Disc Golf called "Ace Trace". The app allows you to trace the path of your disc after you throw it but I had the idea of using it for pool instead LOL
@@bishopbilliards5650 that's so clever!
@@bishopbilliards5650 Thank you for that Adam BB ;-) Are the blue lines (here th-cam.com/video/QnmoyFdv3JQ/w-d-xo.html ) showing the tangent line and the in off / scratch line lasers from the ceiling, or masking tape, or software based? Great work on these videos - i can see the time and passion that has gone into it!
@@bishopbilliards5650 And Ace Trace is on your phone on android? Or can be on a PC. I just had a look at their site and it seems it is only for android devices...?
The two lines represent the tangent line and a natural rolling path. The lines are on there from my projection system called Projection Pro Billiards. And thank you for noticing all the time that goes into these. I have made 3 other videos but haven't posted them because of all the time and effort it takes to edit them. Hoping to have one of them posted this month relating to "Pocket Cheat". Fingers crossed!
This video is awesome 👌👍
Thank you so much 😀
Very informative. Also, is that blue masking tape used for diamond segment dividers on your table?
Hi John, yes you are the first to notice this. The Diamond Splicer stickers are $50 which is a bit too expensive for what you get. So I made my own with painters tape. I used Painter's tape because it doesn't leave behind any residue if I decide to remove them later. Total cost of doing it this way was less than a few dollars and you get the same result.
Great video thank you
Glad you enjoyed the content!
Good job and very well put together. You got a sub out of me.
Awesome job!!!
Thanks Greg!
Great video
Thank you!
Thank you for the nice video 🍻🍻🍻
You are very welcome! I'm trying to make videos that haven't been done before :)
I want to purchase light weight cue ball where can i get one?
Enjoyed it, good info !
Thanks Sayeed! It's a topic that not a lot of people talk about!
Good stuff. Keep it up.
Thank you for your support Sawyer! I haven't seen a lot of people cover this topic so I thought it was a great idea to take dive into it a little.
How about a video showing the effects of worn out (smaller diameter) balls rebounding off rails? If the center mass of a ball is below the rail, it should cause the ball to skid.
I'd like to see this video with pool balls that are actually common on tables. The only one I've seen that you use here is the red dot Aramith, and I'd be curious to know how that compares to the magnetic balls that are most common in bar tables. Only very old tables use the oversized balls, and I've yet to see one like that.
Hi John, is this the type of ball you are curious about? The Valley magnetic cue balls have similar weight to the Aramith cue ball. Let me know if this answers your question.
th-cam.com/video/RbHACd8yymY/w-d-xo.html
@@bishopbilliards5650 It does answer my question - thank you!
I'm also curious if having a piece of metal in the cue ball has any effect on how that cue ball plays, aside from being able to do tricks with it by using strong magnets. I guess if the metal is equal density to the phenolic resin, it might have a negligible effect, but experimentation would probably be the best way to figure that out.
Now if we can only solve the mystery of why the cue ball and other balls sometimes go into the wrong chute. One time I felt pretty dumb looking for the seven ball EVERYWHERE except the cue ball return slot.
John you took the words right out of my keyboard. I would guess that if the metal and resin have the same or similar densities then the differences would be negligible. I don't currently have a magnetic cue ball but my have to get one someday. I would also have to think of a way to scientifically test the differences so I'll put that on the back burner for now until I think I can tackle that one.
I know exactly what you mean by not finding the ball since it went down the wrong path. I have definitely gone through that experience more than a dozen times.
I have various cue balls. The Aramith Measle, Aramith red logo and Aramith green logo (magnetic and commonly found in bars) are all the same size and weight; however, the magnetic green logo clearly provides more action, ie. easier to draw and apply side spin.
There is another cueball that's made for the magnetic separators in coin tables, and it's called, in the industry, the "domestic" ball. It's manufactured inTexas, and it is not a phenolic ball but some other type if plastic, it is very inexpensive, and it actually has a weight similar to the oversized ball. It is difficult for players to adjust to from the standard weighted balls, and is usually pretty well out of round, especially after heavy use. It can be easily detected, besides its being overweight, by a slight grayish tint that is there due to the small iron filings impregnated in the entire ball, and which act as the attractant to the magnet inside the table, and thus causing the ball to separate from the object balls.
PS : These balls are horrible to play with, especially for anyone with a modicum of experience with the regular balls, whether they be standard or magnetic. I recently returned to the game after a hiatus of ten years, and I was stupefied at how poor my game was on the local bar table. Even though I was aware of this ball's properties, I found it very difficult to achieve even a modest success at getting position. My experience actually worked to my detriment.
These balls proliferate on bar tables throughout the land, no doubt due to the fact that the vendors install them because of their low cost, and the fact that bar patrons are not as likely to filfer them, like they are want to do with the better magnetic balls, since these 'domestic' balls are so horrible. I hope that eventually they become obsolete, and that they completely disappear from the scene, just as the old style oversized cue ball finally has done.
Great video on the subject, BTW, and I'm very glad to see that someone finally has addressed this topic. Good job!
PPS: The newer bar tables, or coin operated tables, are now using a completely different system for separation of the balls. The new system uses a Lazer to identify the cueball, and therefore the cueball has exactly the same size, weight, and properties as the object balls, and plays much the same as any standard cueball. Hooray for technology!
Great leaning experience.
Thank you!
What should be the exact weight for cue ball and object balls.
169grams
Cool video but there is a flaw in your method. If a cue ball is larger than the object ball, the contact point will change. It will be over 1.125 inches off the table and the cue ball will be hitting down on the object ball. The physics will be altered. If you really want to test this you will need cue balls that are identical in all ways except for the weight. Thanks for the video though.
The fact that the large cue ball moves forward after contact has nothing to do with weight. When 2 balls are the same size the tangent line is 90° vertical to the table. When they are different sizes the 90° line is shifted away from the larger ball. A pure guess would be 80° from the bed of the table. That proves that the larger ball must move forward, regardless of weight.
I really liked your first two videos, keep up the workl. I would like to see more. The flaw was an honest mistake, we all make them. An addendum video would be nice, if you are convinced that what I am saying is correct.
in other words, the larger ball hitting the smaller ball ends up with contact at neither balls equator.
Hi Scott I agree with what you are saying and I decided to leave this out of the video because I believed it was negligible compared to the weight difference (I wanted to keep the focus on weight alone but maybe should have put a small footnote in the video). I cannot find another large cue ball that is lighter than the one I have now. I doubt there is a ball that is manufactured to properly test this out. If you find one please let me know and I could do more tests on this.
Right on, cheers. Just remembered my comment when I saw the video on Dr Dave's site. Thx for the reply :)
Valley had a metal flake cue balls very heavy the extra weight made using it to plow thru any clusterI won a 96 man tournament by knowing of it mass and power.
Red dot is not standard it’s light. Miesel is standard