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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ม.ค. 2023
- #shorts #short
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Thank you good video.
Hi, my 2007 audi a4 b7 has very weak rev at idle. I stepped on the gas and the rpm just slowly goes up. Before it revs up nice and strong. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Any suggestions on where to start looking when a 2018 ford transit RPMs rev high after driving interstate speeds and pulling hills. It won't stop randomly spiking RPMs even when breaking until the van is pulled over and cooled down. Sounds like the engine is going to blow. Can't get it to replicate for the dealership, only happens in driving down in to the ozarks about 3 hours from our house. No hills near us to replicate it.
I just bought a 2014 Subaru WRX. The RPMs start bouncing (and gently nudging the car forward) regardless of gear at low speeds anywhere between 1k and 2k rpms until I put enough pressure on the accelerator to override what feels like idle searching. Any ideas? I've tried looking this up and some people have claimed that it's the factory tune and that an aftermarket tune can clean it up?
I got a 2008 Subaru FJ motor. headgasket were done at 100K, this started yesterday Where the idle starts a 2k then goes to 1.5 then back to 2k and so on for at least 30 seconds. ive cold started this thing so many time without a problem now when I first start it the idle fluctuates, this never used to happen; any ideas?
What the regular idle position in park for a 2011 Cadillac escalade
Got a mustang 2001 4.6 l, right when I start my
Car it’s at around 2k rpm, I’ve cleaned my idle air control and helped for a bit but the problem
Returned any other ideas I also got a new throttle body cable?
My 2015 honda odyssey rmps fluctuate while going uphill on normal gear, when a lower gear kicks in for more power, the fluctuation stops. Then again continues while taking off from a stop. Car feels like it needs a bit more power.
I have a 2006 gmc sierra 1500, set cruise control the rpms rocket to 4000 , throttle sinks , take off crusie control let the truck downshift and can barely go 35 mph. Is it transmission or fuel or both
If it is a new car, could the spark plugs be the usual suspect? And is it safe to drive the car?
My first time watching this, im concerned about my new vehicle it not NEW car though, well before got engine light fixed, added two pieces. The rpm was absolutely fine it didnt go up until got it fixed it went up to 2 rpm from 1 is it normal? I want to make sure my car is in good condition no issue at all. I tend to get worried or what IF...
I have a 2008 pontiac grand prix. When I accelerate, it will sometimes switch to a higher pitch noise like it's in a lower gear. Anyone have anything for that?
turned off my car nd it stood at reading 4 of the RPM guage. if i go faster than 40 then the meter shoots past reading 7. Went over 60 nd It shot over into the dark abyss. what does it mean
Idk what mine can be my car can be good then it can have the idle jumping slightly and the lights start to pulse when it does that idk what the problem os
Can someone plz tell me
My car while I driving
Like on any gear if I put sudden on neutral rpm hits 1000 rpm higher and then sudden come back to normal after 10 seconds it always happening while m checking shifting to neutral at any speed plzz some one tell me what is the problem
it stopped as i was watching the video, good video 10/10 fixes car for me
my car rpm goes by 1 point high with slight vibration and when car is in idle and rain wiper is on. This is started happening after I refuel the car that was left with 5 percent fuel in it. The rpm raise happens randomly there is no time sequence, may I know what could be the issue. Mine is 1.2ltr petrol engine
Was number 2 for me on my 2011 Silverado 5.3 liter. Only found it after opening the hood before starting the engine in the morning. Coil was wet. After I drove to the parts store that moisture was gone and no evidence of a leaking coil. Engine had a 100-200 rpm variance. I’ve read coils last between 80,000-100,000 miles. Mine has186,000.
My car rpm is 1,5 when engine is off, what is the solution
I have a 2008 Nissan Frontier SE V6 4.0L. I have had a new valve cover with gaskets, new plugs, coils, PVC valve sensor, Temp Control sensor, and both intake exhaust sensors, oil and filter change. I’ve used my smoke machine and found no vacuum leaks. The truck runs well and I get good gas mileage. The issue I have is when it’s warmed up at normal operating temp, it idols very smooth at around 600 RPM’s and then every 5-10 minutes the RPM drops to 500-550 RPM’s for a split second and the back up to 600 RPM's. No issues driving at whatever speed limit Im going. No CEL and OBD2 detects no issues. If anyone has any suggestions or advice on what causes this I would appreciate it greatly.
I have this weird problem for quite some time on chevy cruze 1.8. While idling and attempting to hold rpms steady on 2000 or 3000 whatever, it just revving up and then rpms suddenly drops down to normal idling even thou my foot is still on the pedal. This is almost unnoticeable while driving. I have that "Creader 3001" OBD2 scanner and on data stream everything is within normal. The car accelerates and idles normally, it's just that failed attempt to hold it steady on certain rpms that really annoys me. Any suggestion of fixing my issue?
I have the same problem
@@Iamsami143 Well if you find the problem please share because I kind of give up on finding the issue after several failed attempts. My main suspects are accelerator pedal or ignition coil pack even thou the mechanic claim that they are working properly.
I need to know about this as well
My car has a rpm problem. Idk if it’s the clutch or what. When putting your put on the clutch the rpm goes broom like you put your foot on the pedal. I also feel like the idle rpm got a little higher for about 500
Throttle needs to be adjusted manually or with a computer.
My 2010 Honda accord has terrible mpg and rpm's jump down nad then up at a very specific range when decelerating (like 1500 -1200). also idles high. Any ideas on what's causing this?
Yes my 08 accord also idles high and spikes big time when accelerating
Watch the fuckin video
I got a 1.9 diesel jetta. rpm seems to fluctuate up and down about 100 rpm cruising at 30-40 mph. seems perfectly fine at 50 mph. Idle also is fine... damn cars sick of them....
My 2007 bmw has this problem where my RPMs jump slightly higher and lower for one second only when shifting into neutral. What could it be?
Could be your throttle body deposit carbon or slightly vaccume leak 🤔
@@carfix1993 thanks bud, I’ll see what it is this week
What could be the issue on a 2006 kia if when stepping on the clutch to change gear rev counter goes up?
U have gas pressed as ur pressing clutch causing the rims to jumps real quick. Try fully removing foot off the gas before engaging clutch. If that doesn't help, I'm wrong lol😅
@@kylerdc400 been driving for years... the throttle sensor was the culprit. The car no longer has the problem.
Fair enough, anymore I've learned not to assume lol, glad it's fixed tho. Wish i was more help!
Mine it's a mistubish lancer, when you start it the rpm goes to the half of the clock and 3/4 fluctuating and does not respond to acceleration what could be the problem
The engine is running good but the rpm is more high and dancing
CLEAN IAC VALVE OR REPLACEMENT
am having an issue with my car I have a 1997 Honda accord v6 when I let go of the gas pedal the rpm is very slow to drop it has never done this not sure
Check your IDEL CONTROL may be stuck should be have to clean
@@carfix1993 did one not too long ago but I’ll do one again
th-cam.com/video/L78qiC-OahE/w-d-xo.html
I have a acceleration problem il hit the high way go 60 I feel the car jerkin it’s not a transmission slipping any help?
The same thing happens to me at about 55 or higher the rpm goes up and truck jerks slightly I'm scared it's my transmission. Did you find out anything?
@@johnkimball5872 nope
When i press acceleration My engine give high noise but the speed is very low ,,, in other word the rpm is very high but speed is very low , what can i do i need your help
I have jetta 2011 and have same problem. Do you find what's wrong with it??
I have this problem only when I try to accelerate but only when the engine gets the working temperature. Everything else before that works perfectly fine. But once the engine gets the working temperature if I try to accelerate hard and push the pedal to the bottom it will give me the power than lose it for around 200RMP's and then go back up again. If someone has any experience with this case please write me. Thank you in advance all.
Michael what did you find out ?
I have the exact same problem in my 2008 Cadillac DTS, have you found out the cause...???
@@hoosieroutdoors3020 Hey mate it turned out to be a worn out clutch and flying wheel (clutch plate) to be precise. The mechanic told me that I should replace complete clutch and flying wheel and then I would be able to drive it again with normal driving style at least a 150 thousand miles. I am still waiting for the mechanic to fit me in his schedule since he was busy last 3 weeks. I hope somewhere this week I will be able to replace that thing and then I will come back here with conclusion, experience and some other answers.
@@tkking188 I just wrote the answer mate, I hope you can see it.
@@hoosieroutdoors3020 So guys I have to let you know that all those problems I had are now fixed. All the strange sounds I had when I open the hood, all the shaking when moving from place in first gear, and the uneven work of the engine in place were the problems of worn out clutch disk, and pressure plate with the springs and the mechanic gave me an old part where I can see that even the flying wheel wouldn't hold on much longer, maybe 40 000km more as he said. Then even the flywheel would be completely worn out and give me a bunch of new nightmares and problems. When he explained to me and when I saw how the clutch is working, especially the clutch disk which is constantly in touch with the flywheel that is connected to the crankshaft and they are all connected to the pressure plate connected to the transmission everything makes much more sense. So as soon as you feel on your clutch pedal a small constant vibration when you even slightly cross over it with your foot, open the hood listen to the noise that comes from down the bottom or close to the windshield, and try to give fast acceleration and if you have those RPM raving up and down, trust me unfortunately it is the clutch problem. It is not cheap but once you replace it you will be so happy and glad for fixing it and my car is now working better than ever. I feel sorry for not replacing this part much earlier. Just remember when you feel the first symptoms they will just keep getting worse and worse. There are hundreds of videos that are explaining how to use a clutch normally and it should last at least 250 000km. I will place here one video for you to see how the clutch is actually working and which parts were completely destroyed in my case. I wish you good luck and a lot of miles with your cars guys, take care. th-cam.com/video/devo3kdSPQY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=Lesics
My truck drops real low in rpms when I put it in drive..then fluctuates after I drive it and it's in drive at stop almost to the point it feels like it's gonna stall
Did u get that problem fixed I am having a similar problem and not sure what to do
@@brentonhaye no sir it does it still I had it tuned and was told I could have a leaky injector so I'm thinking that's what it might be
Any Idea on 2006 Acura Rsx? I already replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils.
Map sensor
It’s our version of a iacv
I have a 03 ram 5.9 swapped and truck ran good for long time but now all of a sudden on 2 hour ride home I was doing 55 rm started jumping slightly and sometimes a little high with out me hiting gas any harder and in park it just idels real high any help would be great I've done put so much money in this damn truck I just got it out shop cost me 3k
Dude if u figured out wth was wrong wit it plz let me know🙏🙏on highway speeds mine sits at 1500 but every 6-7 seconds it jumps to about 1550 to 1600 rpm’s
It was a vacume leak right on top of the throttle body in front in middle . There was a rip in the under side up it really hard to see what I did to find it bc I could hear a slight vacuum leak was run my finger up and down on vacuum line found it fairly quick considering it just broke off rubber was rock hard and brittle
@@christian2581 in the process of trying to figure it out I also cleaned off the sensor on rear dif so that may have been it to
@@philipvillagran9236 hell yeah thank you I’ve heard all kinds of crap from torque converter to spark plugs misfires to TCM carb cleaning and even transmission swap appreciate your help🙏
@@christian2581 I also had something similar happen another time it ran fine not not when you would try to get on it or pass someone it would jerk and red line almost I would have to let off for it to shift . I heard all the same torque converter,shift solenoid etc but it turned out to be faulty spark plugs . I've had alot of trial and error with this truck
i think my car has number 6. what should i do?
lol
I have engine shake and rough idling only when AC turned on. What could be the issue.? BTW keep up the great work i believe you are sri lankan yes.? Jaya weva bro
Had a similar issue, it was caused by a weak battery. When the cooling fan or AC came on the car would struggle because the battery couldn't put out the current needed to the spark plugs
Sorry, was feeling ornery and should have just appreciated the tips. It was a good list.
Sorry I'm wrong
Apologies for being an old grouch.
Can the injector nozzle cause this RPM fluctuation
Need response ASAP
My Toyota Sienna 2000 rpm fluctuating
Yes it could be
none of the above
It says 12 Common Problems, but what's number 6?? It goes from 5 to 7. Wrong Timing to Accelerator Pedal Sensor. What's number 6??
You not wrong
Number 6 is ignition control module. It can make your rpm needle jump around on the tach when it goes bad
Show a picture
This was before they invented the number 6
No6 money problem
Old cars were easier, but modern cars are difficult to determine the fault, and inspection of the devices is often unsuccessful