Get rid of those front link! You'll be hung up on the skid all the time. You want to be able to slide on your front links. Back may be ok, but you can get some shorter rod ends for the uppers and longer for the lowers to change pinion angle. The shorter the shock, the lower the gravity center.
With so much weight down low and the rough terrain you guys are driving on, and those breakover gates, I’d give it a try with 60-80mil below the skid. And like mentioned above, the lower links in the front should be straight and going upwards from the axle to the skid, so that a slide on the links can go on right until the end of the skid, to the point where the weight gets less😊
I like everyone's helpful comments. Front lower links are bent way too much, I noticed your drag link's kinda hanging, try shooting for a hole closer to the servo on that long horn, ideally you want your drag link at 90°. Rear pinion angle is extreme, try setting your axle without wheels so that it sits on the portal boxes and layout your links from there. Keep up the good work.
Great build! I run 80mm lizards in the front (full bump), and 2660 in the rear with the rear mini-t springs in soft. You don't want a ton of articulation as it will make your truck extremely unpredictable. I've spent a very long time trying different combos, and this two shock setups have proven to work the best for my style of driving.
Hi. Here is a lot to Diskussion. 1. Portal axles: yes 2. Rear shocks should be layed down to 45 or 50 degrees. Gives more articulation, which is a good thing 3. Front lower links has to be straight and perhaps shortened 4. Wheelbase recommend from 12.3 to 12.5" to your liking (dont know if rules class2 oppose) 5. Rear pinion of axle should be less angled up. Yet a little bit up is good for clearance 6. Servo horn should be shorter. Try a bent steering link. Better would be a servo on axle anyways 7. Rhino esc and motor are great Keep it up🥳
Man! Thank you for the write up!! I appreciate that very much, got the axle straight now in the rear. I may switch to my 90mm lizards and angle them more as well. Thank you!
Articulation is good. There is a point where it’s too much but for the most part it is definitely good to have. Something you might want to try is some DEEZ shock bands to help keep your shocks from unloading when you don’t want them to if you’re not going to use the Desert Lizards. I’ve tried G-speed a couple times now and both times I ended up replacing them. Almost any other chassis will offer far more for tuning, shock mounting positions, and customization over G-speed. I’ve had the best results with either Spare Time Hobbies or Corrupt Carbon Works.
I also run the desert lizard 120mm but I found that I get more articulation when my shocks upside down. I realize it brings the center of gravity up a bit but I'm for more articulation. And I think the pinion needs to be at a lot less of an angle. Very good start.
I'm only 3:41 in, so i could be commenting on something your gonna mention but i do notice that you've got a 3 link in the front but have a SOA setup, i believe 4link for SOA and 3 for CMS. anyways i don't know what i'm talking bout' thank you for the videos between bikes and RC's! OH SHOOT I'M DUMB!! It looks SOA but i see what you did, haahaa sorry! excited for this build my guy!
🤣 Love it that you watched all the way thru and kept pne continous comment lol. Thanks for the looking out brother, I have no clue what I'm talking about either!!
As far as shocks go i stick too around 80 to 85mm shocks but i also run a king of the south chassis so you can be slammed and still have more clearance over any chassis.
Bottom links up front need to be flipped or straight & shorter in my opinion. WB is great. SOA is much better then 3link. Flex is great if it’s manageable
You're a dip switch! 🤣 I believe the key for your links is to make sure they won't get caught up on rocks and such but I only crawl over rocks in my yard so... you better get to building if your comp is in a week!!
The front links should be shorter and that would have got it at just under 12.5 wheelbase. Give me a measurement for those front lowers and ill see what i have so you can use straight lowers. Those are going to hang up.
th-cam.com/video/CH8heFQ3G-w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=W2_AIx7sfX46XScS This is another video that helped me install firmware and flash the rhino esc to make adjustments hope it helps
th-cam.com/video/0WmpVvyTt8M/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared This guy has been killing it with his videos on the geometry of the matter. Im sure you will have it all dialed in real soon. Looking forward to the new rig and learning from your mistakes along the way! Lol
Get rid of those front link! You'll be hung up on the skid all the time. You want to be able to slide on your front links. Back may be ok, but you can get some shorter rod ends for the uppers and longer for the lowers to change pinion angle. The shorter the shock, the lower the gravity center.
Yes sir, thank you. I hate the links area lol, I will see what I can do in the meantime. I'm so excited, I've got a new winch!!
With so much weight down low and the rough terrain you guys are driving on, and those breakover gates, I’d give it a try with 60-80mil below the skid. And like mentioned above, the lower links in the front should be straight and going upwards from the axle to the skid, so that a slide on the links can go on right until the end of the skid, to the point where the weight gets less😊
I like everyone's helpful comments. Front lower links are bent way too much, I noticed your drag link's kinda hanging, try shooting for a hole closer to the servo on that long horn, ideally you want your drag link at 90°. Rear pinion angle is extreme, try setting your axle without wheels so that it sits on the portal boxes and layout your links from there. Keep up the good work.
Thanks brother, hope you watch vid 2. 👍🏻
Great build! I run 80mm lizards in the front (full bump), and 2660 in the rear with the rear mini-t springs in soft. You don't want a ton of articulation as it will make your truck extremely unpredictable. I've spent a very long time trying different combos, and this two shock setups have proven to work the best for my style of driving.
Awesome to know, thanks for the input and I hope it's not too much articulation. Imma see were this build brings me and I hope it crawls good!
@@arkansasrcnewbie good luck sir! 🍻
Hi. Here is a lot to Diskussion.
1. Portal axles: yes
2. Rear shocks should be layed down to 45 or 50 degrees. Gives more articulation, which is a good thing
3. Front lower links has to be straight and perhaps shortened
4. Wheelbase recommend from 12.3 to 12.5" to your liking (dont know if rules class2 oppose)
5. Rear pinion of axle should be less angled up. Yet a little bit up is good for clearance
6. Servo horn should be shorter. Try a bent steering link. Better would be a servo on axle anyways
7. Rhino esc and motor are great
Keep it up🥳
Man! Thank you for the write up!!
I appreciate that very much, got the axle straight now in the rear.
I may switch to my 90mm lizards and angle them more as well. Thank you!
Definitly the 90 mm lizards!
Articulation is good. There is a point where it’s too much but for the most part it is definitely good to have.
Something you might want to try is some DEEZ shock bands to help keep your shocks from unloading when you don’t want them to if you’re not going to use the Desert Lizards.
I’ve tried G-speed a couple times now and both times I ended up replacing them. Almost any other chassis will offer far more for tuning, shock mounting positions, and customization over G-speed. I’ve had the best results with either Spare Time Hobbies or Corrupt Carbon Works.
Awesome info! Thank you so much, I really need a test and tune day. Like bad!! Appreciate the comment
I also run the desert lizard 120mm but I found that I get more articulation when my shocks upside down. I realize it brings the center of gravity up a bit but I'm for more articulation. And I think the pinion needs to be at a lot less of an angle. Very good start.
Thanks brother, I was just about to switch to the 80s lol
We will see with time, thanks for the heads up
I'm only 3:41 in, so i could be commenting on something your gonna mention but i do notice that you've got a 3 link in the front but have a SOA setup, i believe 4link for SOA and 3 for CMS. anyways i don't know what i'm talking bout' thank you for the videos between bikes and RC's!
OH SHOOT I'M DUMB!! It looks SOA but i see what you did, haahaa sorry! excited for this build my guy!
🤣 Love it that you watched all the way thru and kept pne continous comment lol.
Thanks for the looking out brother, I have no clue what I'm talking about either!!
Can't wait for the AM32 review😊
ME EITHER!
First will be an initial impressions, thanks man
As far as shocks go i stick too around 80 to 85mm shocks but i also run a king of the south chassis so you can be slammed and still have more clearance over any chassis.
Nice man, thanks! I've got some 80 or 85mm lizards I just might install.
@@arkansasrcnewbie yes sir give them a shot and see what you prefer.
Bottom links up front need to be flipped or straight & shorter in my opinion. WB is great.
SOA is much better then 3link. Flex is great if it’s manageable
Awesome! Thank you, I'll se how I like the WB and hopefully it will workout OK. Appreciate the help
I prefer my wb around 12.5 thats just what i got used to driving.
I'm hoping 13 will be fine, I know I don't wanna mess with links anymore!
@@arkansasrcnewbie yeah links are a bit of a pain but when you get them right they will be on point.
Nice 👍🏾🔥
Thanks man, super excited!
I built a gs fs gshot but I went with f10 straight axles...had to order different front upper links but it will climb the wall.
Everyone's saying upper links, I may have an issue there....thanks for the comment man.
That a brake line bender you're using to bend links?
Lol, yes mini tube bender
@@arkansasrcnewbie work decent for bending links?
You're a dip switch! 🤣 I believe the key for your links is to make sure they won't get caught up on rocks and such but I only crawl over rocks in my yard so...
you better get to building if your comp is in a week!!
I am for sure!
Man I'm learning Slothsquatch 🤣 it is looking dope!
@@arkansasrcnewbie that what matters the most, always learning and improving!
Get shorter shocks bro. 90mm ideal. 100mm at most
Well I do have some 90mm Lizards.....
The front links should be shorter and that would have got it at just under 12.5 wheelbase. Give me a measurement for those front lowers and ill see what i have so you can use straight lowers. Those are going to hang up.
Well that would be appreciated, thank you so much. Let me check it out tonight!
Well I measured 4-1/4" eyelit to eyelit maybe a tiny bit more/less. Thank you once again
@@arkansasrcnewbie you going to the comp tomorrow?
th-cam.com/video/CH8heFQ3G-w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=W2_AIx7sfX46XScS
This is another video that helped me install firmware and flash the rhino esc to make adjustments hope it helps
Thanks brother, that's gonna be the next question!!! 💪 Thanks
th-cam.com/video/0WmpVvyTt8M/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
This guy has been killing it with his videos on the geometry of the matter. Im sure you will have it all dialed in real soon. Looking forward to the new rig and learning from your mistakes along the way! Lol
Thanks brother, ill be checking it out lol.
It's definitely a trial and error.