The hat the shirt the jacket. Try as you may! We still love you bro! You are one of the best in the scale world! Good luck at the nats. Thanks for the vids and letting us live vicariously through you!
OMG, you rocks another time, that prints... you did great job on the esc box👍👍, I am happy to see you enjoying every video. You are the best out there.
For your battery mounting, I had a little velcro strip to the truck and chassis. Even with the strap, the batteries can move, the velcro just keeps it from sliding out. I use the loop side on the batteries and the stiffer hook side on the truck.
Thanks for the tip on the SLW 185 hubs! I have a Scale Trophy Truck build and I’m trying to avoid the Horrible looking offsets I see all the time on Facebook. Put the time in and pay to play. 🏁 Thanks again Matt. 🤙🏼
I'm an Alabamian. LRC is about 1.5 hours from my house. I wouldn't think our rocks are a ton different than those up north. The main difference will be that we'll be in peak tornado season when you come down, which means a lot of regular rain. Our rocks get pretty soaked and slick, so definitely bring a good wet rock tire. Most of the rocks at LRC are exposed, so there shouldn't be a ton of slick moss on them, but I would definitely be prepared for that. Most of us have really good luck with KLRs, Trenchers (Pred front/G8 rear), and even JConcepts Scorpios. All tuned accordingly with CI foams.
I think it would be more fun if you locked the rear axle and ran it in class 2. Just less stress in my opinion. Those bodies are absolutely beautiful! Loving this series. Can't wait to see them all done.
Another option for 3d printed body panel gap fills and assembly is to use a 3d pen and the same roll of filament that was used to print it. In a sense it is like mig welding but with plastic. You can literally weld the panels together making it seriously strong! Cheers bud!
I have a better option for those Cross RC drive shafts may I suggest red liquorice laces just suck them before use. Go hardbody, love these uploads. the first truck you showed love it it is like one Jeep showed at one of their Jamborees, the body needs to go back a couple of mill to give a better clearance on full lock, it will centre the rear wheels a bit and not catch the rear part of the front fenders this is how the 1-1 get better lock to lock and a good approach angle.. I do wish the servo winch had not been thought of along with the rubber band and elastic thing with the pulley wheels and you had to use scale look winch's, would make you be more inventive. I used to see a guy with a Suzuki SJ13 and he fitted the winch by the centre roll cage and had guides and pulleys in strategic places on the cage and chassis and he could run the cable out from six different places including roof to right himself and there was not a situation he could not get himself out of. Me I would just have two scale winch's one for each end personally not a servo as there are some very capable ones out there to work from a key fob or your transmitter keeping it real. Love the builds swap the axle if you have time a better option less play and no chance your locking link will pop off under strain, hey prefer yours of Josh's but man am I getting fed up with Jeep bodies come on give us something new like your FC Landrover.
I am Jeep man myself ! It in my blood ,,,so that being said Matt your builds ares so awesome an$ choice of a Jeep body ,,,,,love it love it! Man wish I was able go to scale nationals just see your and josh awesomeness!
I would love to see a running video / competition of both yours and Josh scx 24 at the scale nationals . It's been a great series to follow and would be a nice finishing touch to see them together and against each other...
Great job as always Matt! Looking forward to the finished products. I vote for the hard body since you in your heart that’s what you’re going to do. Unbeatable for detail!
OMG yes toe out. I've been a 1/1 crawler for years. Extreme Ackermann angles with a bit of toe out always helps the corners. A bit twitchy at normal driving speeds.
You should design a lever and mount to that knob so you can use your thumb from your left hand to run rear steer. Many of us old comp guys have used the Airtronics MT4 for years and continue to because it came with a lever in a convenient location that allows your left thumb to run the proportional lever.
Coming along nicely!! I've tried 4 wheel steer like urs but started on gt5 crawl mode and probably stay w it for now. I know Logan with WDWheeler is pretty damn smooth and efficient doing it like that but it's hard to get used to it, for me anyawys. Also I performed my first bobbing last weekend on my gen 8 axe and shortened up the roll bar. Comparing it now side by side w my other gen 8 v2 it's not that much shorter but out the rocks its like night and day difference. That boat size SUV definitely needs it. One thing tho I do miss is being able to sit on the rear-end. Now there's no warning before it flips backwards. Give and take... Thx again Matt for another unrivaled topnotch RC presentation!!
a skill saw is actually a pretty good way to do it. I chucked up a really fine tooth blade in mine, mounted it blade up in my vice and fed the bed across it. worked great. kinda sketchy but great. lol
First of all, cool reference from The Core, awesome builds, and if the hard body doesn't create instability issues, go for it. Just like the look better personally...
Really digging the wire clip, and the esc box. Would love the chance to print them. Not that a need a reason but that box will get me to buy a Holmes mini.
For your rear steer have you thought about designing and printing an arm for your steer knob that can be used with your thumb? Much like the one handed steering arms that can be printed and slid over your steering wheel on your transmitter.
Gotta agree with you, Gladiator is not a truck, it's a jeep with a toy box on the back. Have you seen Fab Rats new 1/1 FJ build? It's a serious prototype for all us scale guys to try building. Love your work, cant wait to see the jeep run class 1 As always, have fun.
This is totally the best content you n Josh have done in a while! I'd love to see you guys do a build off on a cheater class 2ish rig. The new Brazin HILOW V2!
Definitely interested in the wire brackets- looks like a great design for 12ga wires Matt When I ran a C2/3 rig, I swapped rear axle. Which was a pain with SCX10 og axles. With AR44s- you're just unbolting the link mounts and unhooking a servo, way easier.
Thank you so much for the sanding block I’ve been using a cut off board from my trailer build and it’s taped on there terrible situation going but I just got my 3d printer and my fingers got tired from all the sanding 😂
Great progress, Matt! Both trucks shaping up nicely 👍 Personally, I prefer function over form so, lexan body for me, really brings down the cg. Also, plenty of excellent lexan bodies out there that can be pointed out (and you can always add a hard body later)!
Both trucks are looking great! On the class 2, why not chop the top off your printed cab? Save the print and lower CG. Also, I'd just swap axles to make sure the judges can't complain.
For rear steer, could you remove the servo and then bolt the drag link to the servo mount. It would save from have to buy all the unsprung weight twice, but lower the cog
I'd look into a plastic welder and just use filament for filling .I know there not crazy price might be good to try I used on for cycle fenders and it worked good .keep up great work and have wonderful day.
Good stuff Matt! Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I personally would have 3 separate vehicles set up for each class as required. I know that is a lot of extra cost, but then you could tweak each vehicle for it's own class without the stress of wrenching between classes and you can experiment with various technical set ups for each class seperately. Just my thoughts.
Great video matt, your c1 is amazing. For your c2 you might want to think about leaving the rear steer axle in it and just lock it out. Could you put the wire separator and crawl master ecs box on thingverse for us to print please 👍. I cant wait for the next video
Trucks look good matt! Im gettin parts together for my c1 now. U mentioned tires, last year at ecc, the hyrax n the pb rock beast done really well. Scale nats is at the same place ecc was. Im goina stick with the hyrax on my c2 n c3 rigs. Got a set of ottsix klr m/t for the c1. That jeep truck body is pretty sweet. Im lookin gor somethin off the wall for my c1 in a hardbody. The rear axle on the c2 truck, what about printing a chassis brace that has a boss to screw the drag link to? That would lock the rear axles n save u the hassle of swappin out axles n the servo wiring. Cant wait for the next update! See yall on the livestream later this evening
I would likely do an axle swap just to keep from having to fight the little bit of slop in the steering set up, and keep anyone from throwing a fit about it. I set up the 4ws on one of my trucks on a toggle as well as limited the amount of servo throw. So the truck is either front steer or four steer, that way there is less thinking about it and also not constantly correcting the steering of two axles. Just a button press and you get a much tighter turning radius when you need it, and regular steering when you don't. Depending on your radio you could have it set on a three position switch and have: front only, four wheel only and rear only. Hard body all the way.
Print a little lever for your rear steer nob. So you can use it with your thumb. If you get the right size whole it might fit snug enough to not need adhesive.
How about a small winch in the rear to pull up the axle and lower the cg when going down a steep obstacle...if theres room for it. And I would go with 5 point rear steer on a switch
If the class 2/3 were my build I'd leave the cab off instead of reprinting it. Just use the hood/quarters and build a full cage from the A pillars back. Maybe cut out the doors from that warped print and use those. I can understand why you wouldn't do that though, prolly a lot more work and it might not even be legal for both classes.
I feel your pain with regards to the sanding, I'm really not looking forward to sanding my SCX6 build. I've been using pva and water mixed 10:1 brushed on to my printer bed. It stops all the warping for sure.
Nice to know that someone else has the need for a standard cab on a jeep truck I'm disappointed as well that jeep didn't bring out a 2 door jeep Not everyone has the need for a 4 door
@@scalebuildersguild I am a frequent watcher of your content as well as Josh's but I Do not know your thingyverse profile name. I'm guessing I should search for scale builders guild would be a good place to start. 😁
Could you print a crossmember for the rear of the frame and unbolt the rear steer link and move it up and bolt it into the cross member? I know it adds a little weight though. Also really dig the wiring router! I’ve used little zip ties and interlocked them so they’re evenly spaced and secure. If you post those files I’d use them. Could you show how you wired your ESC and BEC as well as tuning? I’m interested in doing the same setup! Thanks and awesome work man!
Excellent video. I think you need to swap out the rear axle on the Class 2/3 build in order to be competitive with Josh's rigs at the Nats. Give him hell!
Looks good Matt!! Didn’t Jeep make a Comanche? That build reminds me of one except the front on those looked like a Cherokee and yours looks like a wrangler anyway always the master creator you are!!
Class 1 truck is just awsome....Class 2/3 Is great build so far like to see finished body....And yes the cable and Esc HH is just unbelievable quite it make a Revolver. Personally I kinda like the whine is produced but everyone knows what your running and become annoy by the sound...sorry off track Thingaverse yes ...Thanks Matt...
Trucks look amazing. Have you tried the printer resin with talc to fill the print lines with out having days for sanding. My friend saw a TH-cam video and does this for his gaming prints. Works out amazingly
I’m curious about the toe out idea…my crawler has always relied on the outside tire for more turning force and toe out would make it turn less…probably rig dependent
I’m interested in the crawl master esc box
The hat the shirt the jacket. Try as you may! We still love you bro! You are one of the best in the scale world! Good luck at the nats. Thanks for the vids and letting us live vicariously through you!
Appreciate it!! Thanks for watching!
Those wire mounts are rad! Things are coming along nicely.
That 2 door looks Awesome the Jeep Scrambler was one of my favorites Thanks for the videos
No problem 👍
Bob a bed with a skill saw - that sure would be skillfull! LOL :-) Looking absolutely fantastic Matt.
Thanks 👍
OMG, you rocks another time, that prints... you did great job on the esc box👍👍, I am happy to see you enjoying every video. You are the best out there.
Thank you so much 🤗 and thanks for watching!
For your battery mounting, I had a little velcro strip to the truck and chassis. Even with the strap, the batteries can move, the velcro just keeps it from sliding out. I use the loop side on the batteries and the stiffer hook side on the truck.
Awesome build my man. I love the look of a regular cab short bed truck
Me too! Thanks for watching!
It would be cool to run a hardbody , but I’m very partial to those . It gives you that something extra on your builds . Keep up the amazing work !!
Thanks for the tip on the SLW 185 hubs! I have a Scale Trophy Truck build and I’m trying to avoid the Horrible looking offsets I see all the time on Facebook. Put the time in and pay to play. 🏁 Thanks again Matt. 🤙🏼
Right on!
I'm an Alabamian. LRC is about 1.5 hours from my house. I wouldn't think our rocks are a ton different than those up north. The main difference will be that we'll be in peak tornado season when you come down, which means a lot of regular rain. Our rocks get pretty soaked and slick, so definitely bring a good wet rock tire. Most of the rocks at LRC are exposed, so there shouldn't be a ton of slick moss on them, but I would definitely be prepared for that.
Most of us have really good luck with KLRs, Trenchers (Pred front/G8 rear), and even JConcepts Scorpios. All tuned accordingly with CI foams.
I think it would be more fun if you locked the rear axle and ran it in class 2. Just less stress in my opinion. Those bodies are absolutely beautiful! Loving this series. Can't wait to see them all done.
Nice builds and good progress Matt. Keen to see the changes as the dates loom closer. Loving the wheel and tyre combo on the Sherpa! 🤘
Thanks 👍
Another option for 3d printed body panel gap fills and assembly is to use a 3d pen and the same roll of filament that was used to print it. In a sense it is like mig welding but with plastic. You can literally weld the panels together making it seriously strong! Cheers bud!
Interesting idea!
I have a better option for those Cross RC drive shafts may I suggest red liquorice laces just suck them before use.
Go hardbody, love these uploads. the first truck you showed love it it is like one Jeep showed at one of their Jamborees, the body needs to go back a couple of mill to give a better clearance on full lock, it will centre the rear wheels a bit and not catch the rear part of the front fenders this is how the 1-1 get better lock to lock and a good approach angle..
I do wish the servo winch had not been thought of along with the rubber band and elastic thing with the pulley wheels and you had to use scale look winch's, would make you be more inventive.
I used to see a guy with a Suzuki SJ13 and he fitted the winch by the centre roll cage and had guides and pulleys in strategic places on the cage and chassis and he could run the cable out from six different places including roof to right himself and there was not a situation he could not get himself out of. Me I would just have two scale winch's one for each end personally not a servo as there are some very capable ones out there to work from a key fob or your transmitter keeping it real.
Love the builds swap the axle if you have time a better option less play and no chance your locking link will pop off under strain, hey prefer yours of Josh's but man am I getting fed up with Jeep bodies come on give us something new like your FC Landrover.
Always my man. Thanks buddy
I am Jeep man myself ! It in my blood ,,,so that being said Matt your builds ares so awesome an$ choice of a Jeep body ,,,,,love it love it! Man wish I was able go to scale nationals just see your and josh awesomeness!
I put a Jeep Comanche body on my Gen8,
Whole new beast!!! I have the Landmines on my Ecto, great tires!
I would love to see a running video / competition of both yours and Josh scx 24 at the scale nationals . It's been a great series to follow and would be a nice finishing touch to see them together and against each other...
Thanks for the idea!
Truck looks good on the class 1 tires. Can't wait to see it all done.
Super cool that it's in my home state this year. Might have to check it out.
The wheels with the jconcepts side and tusks will look killer.
Coming along nicely Matt. Love that jeep body. May need to print that one.
Thanks 👍
Awesome build, fan of that single cab
Thanks!
Matt is chuffed about his box. Nice
Looking awesome dud!!
Im woking on the muflfler made of tubing
For my trail lc70 toyo
Great job as always Matt! Looking forward to the finished products. I vote for the hard body since you in your heart that’s what you’re going to do. Unbeatable for detail!
Thanks for watching! I'm getting mixed advice on lexan vs. hard body it's a tough decision.
Yes, the wire mount and the box would much appreciated for printing.
Copy that!
OMG yes toe out. I've been a 1/1 crawler for years. Extreme Ackermann angles with a bit of toe out always helps the corners. A bit twitchy at normal driving speeds.
You should design a lever and mount to that knob so you can use your thumb from your left hand to run rear steer. Many of us old comp guys have used the Airtronics MT4 for years and continue to because it came with a lever in a convenient location that allows your left thumb to run the proportional lever.
Really like the rear steer set up. I'd leave it as is. Same setup as WDW, aka Logan. It works very well and is worth the effort. Great video! :)
Good to know!
Coming along nicely!! I've tried 4 wheel steer like urs but started on gt5 crawl mode and probably stay w it for now. I know Logan with WDWheeler is pretty damn smooth and efficient doing it like that but it's hard to get used to it, for me anyawys. Also I performed my first bobbing last weekend on my gen 8 axe and shortened up the roll bar. Comparing it now side by side w my other gen 8 v2 it's not that much shorter but out the rocks its like night and day difference. That boat size SUV definitely needs it. One thing tho I do miss is being able to sit on the rear-end. Now there's no warning before it flips backwards. Give and take... Thx again Matt for another unrivaled topnotch RC presentation!!
interesting to follow this journey🤩 and really would be interested in crawlmaster esc box and wire mounts😎
Looking good Matt, I may have to have a go at that Jeep body. Also great shout on the sanding block, I was just about to go looking for one 👍🏻
You should! Glad I could help with the sanding block. Thanks for watching!
a skill saw is actually a pretty good way to do it. I chucked up a really fine tooth blade in mine, mounted it blade up in my vice and fed the bed across it. worked great. kinda sketchy but great. lol
Great video bud, The template tip really helped me figure out my C2 Hardbody build!
Glad I could help!
C1 rig looks killer! Love it
TSL’s and hyrax work pretty well at Cherokee rock village when it’s dry.
Looking good man! both trucks are coming along nicely.
Thanks Brett! Here's hoping they hold together!
Love this series ! Watching on my lunch break lol
Enjoy!
First of all, cool reference from The Core, awesome builds, and if the hard body doesn't create instability issues, go for it. Just like the look better personally...
Good point!
Really digging the wire clip, and the esc box. Would love the chance to print them. Not that a need a reason but that box will get me to buy a Holmes mini.
Will put the files up soon!
For your rear steer have you thought about designing and printing an arm for your steer knob that can be used with your thumb? Much like the one handed steering arms that can be printed and slid over your steering wheel on your transmitter.
Not a bad idea!
Impressive build. Hard body for sure!
Gotta agree with you, Gladiator is not a truck, it's a jeep with a toy box on the back.
Have you seen Fab Rats new 1/1 FJ build? It's a serious prototype for all us scale guys to try building.
Love your work, cant wait to see the jeep run class 1
As always, have fun.
C.A.D. I use it all the time! Even before computers were in every home. Darn... i feel old
This is totally the best content you n Josh have done in a while! I'd love to see you guys do a build off on a cheater class 2ish rig. The new Brazin HILOW V2!
Definitely interested in the wire brackets- looks like a great design for 12ga wires Matt
When I ran a C2/3 rig, I swapped rear axle. Which was a pain with SCX10 og axles. With AR44s- you're just unbolting the link mounts and unhooking a servo, way easier.
That's my plan!
Thank you so much for the sanding block I’ve been using a cut off board from my trailer build and it’s taped on there terrible situation going but I just got my 3d printer and my fingers got tired from all the sanding 😂
I would change the axle for sure my man
Great progress, Matt! Both trucks shaping up nicely 👍 Personally, I prefer function over form so, lexan body for me, really brings down the cg. Also, plenty of excellent lexan bodies out there that can be pointed out (and you can always add a hard body later)!
Thanks for the tip! I'm still deciding between the two...
Both trucks are looking great! On the class 2, why not chop the top off your printed cab? Save the print and lower CG. Also, I'd just swap axles to make sure the judges can't complain.
Keep up the good work 👍
What shocks do you have on this rig ?
For rear steer, could you remove the servo and then bolt the drag link to the servo mount. It would save from have to buy all the unsprung weight twice, but lower the cog
I'd look into a plastic welder and just use filament for filling .I know there not crazy price might be good to try I used on for cycle fenders and it worked good .keep up great work and have wonderful day.
Great tip!
Josh may have his fancy carbon fiber bodies and titanium cages but you definitely have the edge with your impeccable choice in batteries. 😄
😂
I mean.... Hard body is pretty cool.... 😉
looking good so far, running smooth.
Spektrum added a printable thumb lever to replace the proportional knob on the DX5 Pro to Thingiverse. Works a treat for my 4WS Capra.
And I just started printing it! Thank you!
Good stuff Matt! Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I personally would have 3 separate vehicles set up for each class as required. I know that is a lot of extra cost, but then you could tweak each vehicle for it's own class without the stress of wrenching between classes and you can experiment with various technical set ups for each class seperately. Just my thoughts.
Well said!
Great video matt, your c1 is amazing. For your c2 you might want to think about leaving the rear steer axle in it and just lock it out. Could you put the wire separator and crawl master ecs box on thingverse for us to print please 👍. I cant wait for the next video
I'll put them up soon. Thanks!
Trucks look good matt! Im gettin parts together for my c1 now. U mentioned tires, last year at ecc, the hyrax n the pb rock beast done really well. Scale nats is at the same place ecc was. Im goina stick with the hyrax on my c2 n c3 rigs. Got a set of ottsix klr m/t for the c1. That jeep truck body is pretty sweet. Im lookin gor somethin off the wall for my c1 in a hardbody. The rear axle on the c2 truck, what about printing a chassis brace that has a boss to screw the drag link to? That would lock the rear axles n save u the hassle of swappin out axles n the servo wiring.
Cant wait for the next update! See yall on the livestream later this evening
Thanks for the tips! Thanks for watching!
"If I'm being honest"
I would likely do an axle swap just to keep from having to fight the little bit of slop in the steering set up, and keep anyone from throwing a fit about it. I set up the 4ws on one of my trucks on a toggle as well as limited the amount of servo throw. So the truck is either front steer or four steer, that way there is less thinking about it and also not constantly correcting the steering of two axles. Just a button press and you get a much tighter turning radius when you need it, and regular steering when you don't. Depending on your radio you could have it set on a three position switch and have: front only, four wheel only and rear only.
Hard body all the way.
Intricate rc crawler builds! Alabama trip is now on the horizon and a fun SBG "comp prep update video", cheers 😁👊
Baking soda and CA glue is legit. I have used that on a couple of guitars that had nut slots (ha ha!) that were too wide and needed to be re-cut.
Right on!
Print a little lever for your rear steer nob. So you can use it with your thumb. If you get the right size whole it might fit snug enough to not need adhesive.
Yes! Spektrum actually has a file on thingiverse!
Looking awesome dude.
Much appreciated. Thanks for watching!
I'm a big fan of winging it too.
😂
Trucks are looking great. I would love to be able to print those wire mounts if you put them up on thingiverse.
I like set 2 for the wheels so far on the jeep truck
How about a small winch in the rear to pull up the axle and lower the cg when going down a steep obstacle...if theres room for it. And I would go with 5 point rear steer on a switch
Thanks for the tips!
AWESOME JOB
Thank you! Cheers!
Put 1 extra ball linck on you servo horn and make a connection to the suspension
If the class 2/3 were my build I'd leave the cab off instead of reprinting it. Just use the hood/quarters and build a full cage from the A pillars back. Maybe cut out the doors from that warped print and use those. I can understand why you wouldn't do that though, prolly a lot more work and it might not even be legal for both classes.
I feel your pain with regards to the sanding, I'm really not looking forward to sanding my SCX6 build. I've been using pva and water mixed 10:1 brushed on to my printer bed. It stops all the warping for sure.
Good to know, thank you!
For rear-steer, use two electric guitar pedals for your feet. Call them “Rudder Pedals” !!!
Will you do a video on how you programmed the knob? Hate the 4 pos on the D switch. Loving the Scale Nats updates.
Sure, I'll do that in the next video.
Omg I love that Awesome work
Thank you! Cheers! I'll see what I can do re: build off.
Nice to know that someone else has the need for a standard cab on a jeep truck
I'm disappointed as well that jeep didn't bring out a 2 door jeep
Not everyone has the need for a 4 door
Axle swap and pointing out a lean body may really help performance. It would also just be cool to see how good a lexan body could look.
I would definitely be interested if you threw both of those items up on thingyverse. Trucks are looking great Thanks for the content Keep it up. 👍
Will do! Thanks for watching!
@@scalebuildersguild I am a frequent watcher of your content as well as Josh's but I Do not know your thingyverse profile name. I'm guessing I should search for scale builders guild would be a good place to start. 😁
Perhaps glue a larger wheel to the rear steering knob on the handset? Might make steering more controllable?
Yes! Spektrum actually has a file to print on thingiverse!
Could you print a crossmember for the rear of the frame and unbolt the rear steer link and move it up and bolt it into the cross member? I know it adds a little weight though. Also really dig the wiring router! I’ve used little zip ties and interlocked them so they’re evenly spaced and secure. If you post those files I’d use them. Could you show how you wired your ESC and BEC as well as tuning? I’m interested in doing the same setup! Thanks and awesome work man!
I'll post those files soon. As I get closer, I'll try to show the wiring. Thanks for watching!
I would have a spare steering link setup as a lockout link to the axle and just pull the rear servo for class 2
I Really like those wire clamps 👌🏼
+1 for the landmines
I think you should use the cliffhanger body on that class 2 rig
C1 is lookin’ good!
Thanks!
One more like for you my son!!!
crazy amount of work for the 3dprinted body!! i admire it! keep up!! i wonder the capacity of those batteries is enough to make out the full trail??
It’s only ten gates over a maximum of six minutes. Plenty of capacity!
Excellent video. I think you need to swap out the rear axle on the Class 2/3 build in order to be competitive with Josh's rigs at the Nats. Give him hell!
Thank you!
Looks good Matt!! Didn’t Jeep make a Comanche? That build reminds me of one except the front on those looked like a Cherokee and yours looks like a wrangler anyway always the master creator you are!!
Yes, Comanche's were available a long time ago. I'd like to see THIS one made.
love that class 2 rig so far!!! lexan for the class 2!
You’ve got icing sugar on your hat😄
Class 1 truck is just awsome....Class 2/3 Is great build so far like to see finished body....And yes the cable and Esc HH is just unbelievable quite it make a Revolver. Personally I kinda like the whine is produced but everyone knows what your running and become annoy by the sound...sorry off track Thingaverse yes ...Thanks Matt...
I wish the roosts had a longer life... Really great wheel
I think they'll make them again!
And type of filament for the body, and fenders
Hey Matt! What about a Jeep cab-over monster, similar to the SCX24 budget build-off? I think that would look bad ass!
Thanks for the suggestion!
@@scalebuildersguild especially at 1:10! You would kill it!
Trucks look amazing. Have you tried the printer resin with talc to fill the print lines with out having days for sanding. My friend saw a TH-cam video and does this for his gaming prints. Works out amazingly
That's still the plan, but I'm going to do some sanding first to clean it up a little bit.
I love both trucks .Have you thought about maby running a hobbywing fusion ? Maybe save you alittle weight and space ... 🤷♂️
The fusion won't run on 4S, nor is it enough KV's. Thanks for the idea though!
I’m curious about the toe out idea…my crawler has always relied on the outside tire for more turning force and toe out would make it turn less…probably rig dependent
It's something I'm experimenting with! Thanks for watching!
Loving it 🔥👏