Crawler Canyon ICFTW Vol.40 Ep.3: A Canyon Change
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ค. 2024
- We fixed some things.
Get a Crawler Canyon tee! www.cafepress.com/crawlercanyon
Zoku ZRD rails 'n sliders zokurc.com/products/zrd-frame...
Links
VRD alnk.to/6IF3rQo
F10 straight alnk.to/3U0VKLr
Rhino V40 amzn.to/3xcVY0T
Rhino 1900 amzn.to/3RjhUhz
Flash Hobby 60kg amzn.to/3K9yRr3
RC4GS amzn.to/4bMCbEf
Stance alnk.to/cb2xR8T
Ruptures alnk.to/5FavyXX
Deep Wheels amzn.to/4bwSR2W
Shocks amzn.to/4aTnRsD
IG: crawlercanyon
Awesome CGH calculator from Domink Czernia www.omnicalculator.com/physic...
Amazon list: www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls... - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
Thanks for trying out the inserts!🤘 The squared out Ruptures may not be for everyone but I've enjoyed the challenge of trying to improve the side hill of these(and other) round tires.
I think you will come to find that these inserts have a natural spiral that forms after a little bit of runtime similar to a silicone insert. Performance can be improved out of the gate by manually forming the spiral during installation. I've found that I get the best performance when the spiral is oriented so that it "tightens" under forward drive. I think this has the awesome effect of improving forward drives on climbs while at the same time providing a bit more rigidity for those stable descents.
FYI once the spiral settles in the insert will act a little bit softer. you will probably want to get the firms installed in the rear if you're thinking they are already too soft. In my experience the softs are nearly too soft for a bone stock VRD.
I have not set up a website since these are still prototypes but if anyone is wanting to try a set they can definitely email me👍 it should be on my TH-cam profile since I don't think TH-cam comments will let me put an email address here🤷
You have to appreciate the community. That’s always trying to engineer/just make stuff better. It’s my favorite part of the hobby.
Those mystery wheels came from me.
Nice one MiataC
That's how my Re⚡Volt inserts for Ruptures are!
SQUARED!
Ask people who drive them like @Erik Rombo😊
I think we're just starting to see what can be done with 3D printed inserts. Endless customization for any vehicle and tire - very exciting.
They are absolutely tire dependent!
3D printed are definitely the future, but they are so very tire and rig dependent. They basically have to be bespoke to an individual rig for maximum performance. That's why I think that the molded silicone, or DIY dual stage are the inserts of right now, because you can tailor them to fit your needs, and they're WAY cheaper.
@@CrawlerCanyon I don't disagree and the time of foams is far from (and may never be) over. These are still early days, but the promise is there. With the increasing ease of use and affordability of FDM printers and materials more and more people will be able to experiment and progress the state of the art. Options are always good.
What kind of insert do you run on this rupture ?
3d printing inserts are a very layered issue....it's not about the different designs according to the tires it's also a material and print technique matter....until now I only see two ,more or less ,decent concepts. I agree the foam hybrid inserts are still the best option.
Hey there😊
Hey Lisa 🙃
Howdy!
Wagwan Canyonaeros 👊
morning gents😊
thanks for uploading a lot and quite all of the time
Only reason I don't run my Ruptures is because of the rounded profile. I want those inserts
Let's see a 4.75 injora comp tire, with the green inserts on a 2.2
I need confirmation
I can’t decide on what my first 1/10 crawler should be . Either scx10.3 or fmsx10 blazer . I won’t be doing crazy mods I don’t think . Just some weight down low and wheels/tires. I like the technology in the fms. But i believe it’s lacking after market support? I mainly like to crawl cuz I only have scx24’s. But the idea of going fast sounds fun. I just don’t care for the body on the scx10 but like that there is lots to change on it.
zee truck of trucks
👍👍😎😎
I get 35 minutes of run time out of an ovonic 450ma 4s on a rhino 80 with a small out runner. About the same as an 850 on 3s. An 850 6s gets me over an hour. You're really not giving up that much unless you have a super aggressive driving style. I don't mind pushing through binds but I creep more than I power crawl.
You have to take into account that you and I are doing different things. It's not uncommon for one rig and/or battery to be in use for an entire morning, afternoon, or evening-- I own a total of 850 3S packs, and I need both of them in the rigs that only fit small packs are in a video that day. Luckily. Mavericks is only 5 minutes a pop so any battery works-- but those little packs won't make it through a tire test or a this vs. that. I need the capacity.
When Mavericks got built, Baseline was powered on and idling for 10-12 hours a day for 3 consecutive days.
@CrawlerCanyon you talked about eliminating sprung weight on a very comp oriented rig. I'm not saying it's the answer for every rig or person. You're definitely an oddity. Merely pointing out that a 53 gram 4s battery pushes my comp rig over half an hour. You can get a four pack for 40 bucks. That's 20 grams less than an 850 3s that's less efficient. An 850 6s is within a few grams of a 1300 3s with similar run times. Just saying there are options for comp rigs a lot of people don't consider and they have benefits beside shaving weight.
They used to say gear down volt up, and that prevailed. The bulk of folks shifted to 3s. Now we have escs that can volt way up to 8s, so we can kv down volt up. There's more on the table.
I have a couple questions for you: 1) Are the kyx knuckle weights scx10 ii?
2) Can one "flip" the ring and pinion in the rear f10 axel so all 4 wheels spin in the same direction?
3) With the new VRD straight axel builders kit, if one puts a portal axel in the back about how much overdrive would it have?
Thank you kindly and keep up the good work.
1. Yes.
2. Yes, but you'll need to dremel a slot for the reverse-rotation ring gear, and lose most of the benefits of the mullet by dropping the driveshaft like 15mm.
3. Depends on what they decide to give us in the gearbox, and what gears you're running in the portal axle. But if it's a non-VRD VFD with the 6.5%, you'd still be over 50%.
Yo
23
A Silent Assassin would get rid of that death squall. That's horrible lol.
LOL. No thanks. Over double the cost of a Rhino, to potentially quiet down whine at WOT? I have far better places to spend the money. These boutique ESC "manufacturers" are absolutely running wild.
@CrawlerCanyon I can understand that. I'm definitely not made of money lol. I do have a question though because you seem to run alot of fusion combos, which I love. Would you recommend running a smaller 4s battery to power a direct power servo while running a fusion or just get a different servo altogether. And if so which one would you recommend?
I would say that with a Fusion, and being limited to 3S, to pick a servo that does well at 3S voltages. There are plenty of 4S rated servos out there that make solid numbers at 12V-- like why I use the Flash Hobby 60kg so much. It's 4S capable, but makes totally solid (+700oz) on 3S. My favorite 3S-direct servo is the AGFRC SA75CVSW. So smooth.
@CrawlerCanyon yeah thats kinda what I was thinking too. I'm running a nsdrc rs800 v2 on 3s right now in my trail rig but it honestly feels sluggish. It's got decent power but I feel like there has to be a better option for running 3s instead of having to run 2 batteries. If hobbywing comes out with a 4s capable fusion pro I think it would fly off the shelves lol.
The NSDRC servos are 4S servos. They really don't do much on 3S. As such, I don't think I have a Fusion + NSDRC combo here.
Did u see the new kits coming
I'm not hopeful. The VS4-10 builder's kit is a body-less Fordyce you assemble yourself, and the straight axle VRD apparently lost all of the cool stuff in the gearbox. So unless the prices turn out to be much lower than I would expect, we've been given the illusion of options.
I think the most frustrating thing is it's just turning into a million ways to get straight axles and a standard VFD...🤷 Where my portals and vfd twin at?
So the only kit worth buying is the phoenix with portals, twin, and the body.
@@Js_junkyard as of today, the Phoenix portal kit and the VRD Carbon kit. I won't be sure of what's actually in/on the "new" kits until they show up on Amain, but I can't imagine the "new" pricing being competitive, when the body alone for a Phoenix is $150. Say that the VS4-10 Builder's Kit is $250-- well, a Phoenix portal kit is $400, and comes with a VFD Twin, the body, etc. If the VRD Straight and the BK both turn out to have sintered axle gears as had been reported, Vanquish will well and truly have lost the plot.
Did you dremel out the diff flip and put in reverse cut gears? I used a salinas designs reverse transmission it's like a cheeseburger but heavier and motor mount is lower. I did the tape test without changing anything I have about 10% overdrive would like more any suggestions would be helpful.
No, I have basically a home-built transfer case to reverse the rotation of the rear driveshaft. I had to run an 8/24 OD gearset in the rear to get the overall UD down to a reasonable number (when paired with a VFD) so a reverse gear was not an option. How did you get down to 10% OD with a mullet? Does the Salina have built-in UD and you're running it backwards? I ended up somewhere around 22% UD, down from a "stock" (that is, no swapped gears) of 56%.
Woa...Salinas...that's a blast from the past😊
Would you check the cg before making any changes. My guess is he has the lowest in the canyon.
"I get tons of messages on discord" now I feel bad for messaging you...lol
I wasn't complainin, I was just sayin-- I can't barely remember who said what when it happens in person. In the haze of social medias, half the time I can't remember if I saw it, read it, or thought of it myself.