I had a very similar setup only behind a small block chevy with the same hydrolic throwout bearing. I had issues where my clutch would not fulley disengage making it impossible to get into gear because the throwout bearing didnt have enough travel!! Make sure that the diaphram clutch you are running can work with the amount of travel you have avalible. They make hydrolic throwout bearing with 3/4 inch travel (the one i run now) and that one only has 1/2 incj travel. Anyway i hooe that might save you some future headache took me a while to figure it out.
What is the recommended clearance 1/16" or .016"? You kept saying 1/16 but the feeler gauge you used was .016. 1/16 is .0625". That puts you much tighter (.047) than recommended. If there is expansion when it heats up, the fingers could touch enough to wear out the throughout bearing.
I double checked the instructions from Howe Racing and it is 1/16 (.06) +/- 1/32 (.03). If I did use the wrong gauge I must have got lucky cuz it shifts and work’s beautifully lol. Thanks for watching!
Hi. When it was all installed, did you look through the viewing inspection opening and see the whole bearing and hose’s moves towards the clutch, only the small sleeves stayed still? Greetings from the UK 🇬🇧
Hello, Your math on the number of shims was correct and you should have used all ten shims but to get the right clearance you needed to remove 2. I'm thinking when you stack all ten shims together one or more are bent or some are thicker then others. Those shims are just stamped steel and nothing precision about them. As a suggestion, I would look at those shims and make certain none are damaged or have burrs and even measure their thickness. Stack the ten shims on the transmission snot then put the hydraulic bearing in place. Then before you put the transmission on to the bell housing take another measurement from the face of the bearing to the face of the transmission mounting surface. If the distance needed is not correct remove or add shims at this point. As a check use the 1/16" feeler gauge with the transmission bolted in place. Most OEM bell housings have no room to check with a feeler gauge.
You’re absolutely right. I’m glad I used my feeler gauge once everything was bolted together. The motor and trans just went in the other day without any issue so I’m hoping to get some fluid in the clutch system and get it bled and do an operational check before I go any further. Just like any project though, my front e-brake cable snapped and my passenger side cable stopped working so that’s todays project lol.
Hi I’m doing the same thing I got the same T5 going in a gen 3 LS did you have to cut the stock retainer my retainer gos past the clutch 0.154 thousands
Hi, hope the video helped. I didn’t cut anything on the trans or clutch side. I’ve got the hydraulic side bled and have a very positive and solid pedal feel.
It’s RM-6018. I ordered directly from Holley and the tech I was speaking with said they were discontinuing them. It took a little bit of fab work to get the driver side Speed Engineering headers to clear but nothing too major.
BEST VIDEO on this. GOT the key point right away!
I had a very similar setup only behind a small block chevy with the same hydrolic throwout bearing.
I had issues where my clutch would not fulley disengage making it impossible to get into gear because the throwout bearing didnt have enough travel!! Make sure that the diaphram clutch you are running can work with the amount of travel you have avalible. They make hydrolic throwout bearing with 3/4 inch travel (the one i run now) and that one only has 1/2 incj travel. Anyway i hooe that might save you some future headache took me a while to figure it out.
Thanks for the info! I appreciate it. I will look into it.
Thanks. I didn't take into account the trimmed fork actuation cylinder bracket and appreciate the response.
What is the recommended clearance 1/16" or .016"? You kept saying 1/16 but the feeler gauge you used was .016. 1/16 is .0625". That puts you much tighter (.047) than recommended. If there is expansion when it heats up, the fingers could touch enough to wear out the throughout bearing.
I double checked the instructions from Howe Racing and it is 1/16 (.06) +/- 1/32 (.03). If I did use the wrong gauge I must have got lucky cuz it shifts and work’s beautifully lol. Thanks for watching!
Hi. When it was all installed, did you look through the viewing inspection opening and see the whole bearing and hose’s moves towards the clutch, only the small sleeves stayed still? Greetings from the UK 🇬🇧
Yes, I have a bore scope camera I bought off Amazon and was able to have my son operate the clutch pedal while I viewed the internals move.
@@jembuildz I was surprised to see the pipe housing fitting moving too? Obviously you need flexible lines with this design
Hello, Your math on the number of shims was correct and you should have used all ten shims but to get the right clearance you needed to remove 2. I'm thinking when you stack all ten shims together one or more are bent or some are thicker then others. Those shims are just stamped steel and nothing precision about them. As a suggestion, I would look at those shims and make certain none are damaged or have burrs and even measure their thickness. Stack the ten shims on the transmission snot then put the hydraulic bearing in place. Then before you put the transmission on to the bell housing take another measurement from the face of the bearing to the face of the transmission mounting surface. If the distance needed is not correct remove or add shims at this point. As a check use the 1/16" feeler gauge with the transmission bolted in place. Most OEM bell housings have no room to check with a feeler gauge.
You’re absolutely right. I’m glad I used my feeler gauge once everything was bolted together. The motor and trans just went in the other day without any issue so I’m hoping to get some fluid in the clutch system and get it bled and do an operational check before I go any further. Just like any project though, my front e-brake cable snapped and my passenger side cable stopped working so that’s todays project lol.
Hi I’m doing the same thing I got the same T5 going in a gen 3 LS did you have to cut the stock retainer my retainer gos past the clutch 0.154 thousands
Hi, hope the video helped. I didn’t cut anything on the trans or clutch side. I’ve got the hydraulic side bled and have a very positive and solid pedal feel.
Which Quicktime scattershield is that? I see 6018C19S but not sure if that's it.
It’s RM-6018. I ordered directly from Holley and the tech I was speaking with said they were discontinuing them. It took a little bit of fab work to get the driver side Speed Engineering headers to clear but nothing too major.