Thanks for the concise video, listening to your kid in the background made me miss doing projects when my kids were little. They were so inquisitive like your kid. I am tackling this project today, wish me luck. Larry
Excellent video. Save me from making my driveway look like the Valdez parked there! Your little one had me laughing!! No way I could have been that patient....
@6:07 was hilarious when your it spilled and your child asked was it satisfying lol. Gotta love our kids. My son is always there next to me when I'm working. Is not funny that it got on your camera and driveway. I usually use cardboard. Thanks for the video
Excellent video! Informative, good camera work and clear audio without a bunch of the usual unrelated fluff. I love when your kid asks you if it was satisfying when you make the mess! LOL
Great info here as I did all the 30 k fluid changes on my Ram 3500 ! , and on those four pan bolts at the cross member I used a piece of vacuum hose to reinstall and they went in like a charm with re- tightening with the 1/4 ratchet done likety split.. old school we used to install spark plugs with a piece of fuel line..fuel line too thick- used 3/8 vacuum line job done.. saved a boat load too.. doing it myself...thanks for getting me prepared for the Mess too..
Also used a piece of clear hose that I heated the end to form around the head of the bolts and with a little guidance went right up AND threaded completely, so all that was left was the final torque which of course was "skill of the craft"
Thanks for this excellent video Sean. I have a 2014 Ram 3500 dually which I've been dreading doing a filter change on the Aisin because of those four almost inaccessible bolts at the rear of the pan. You made it look pretty easy. Now thanks to you I also know to watch out for a fluid shower when pulling down the filter. I appreciate your sacrifice. 😁👍🏼
I performed this on my 2018 CCLB 3500 today. Thanks for the video! There was NO room for a 1/4" drive 10mm socket without removing the 3 transmission mount nuts in the cross member and jacking the transfer case/transmission up ~1-1/2". BTW, those are torqued to 50 ft-lbs. Take care
I came here to post this exact thing about my 2015 CCLB 3500 that I did this service on today. I also used a universal style swivel for my application, which works surprisingly well if you use short socket -> swivel -> 3"+ extension. for reinstall, once you get the tip in the hole, hold the extension up against the bottom of the pan and it will keep the bolt where it needs to be to start, otherwise the socket wanted to walk. Another thing I did different than the video that I only thought of because of the messes made on camera, 1) drain the pan, reinstall the plug, leave the tub in place 2) drop all except 2 bolts near the front of the pan, re-remove the plug and slowly loosen the 2 remaining bolts to drain most of what's left. 3) finish dropping the pan, leave the pan on the drain pan where it was to catch the fluid 4) pull the filter over the top of the pan.
Thanks for the most important part of the video. You helped me. Restart your truck until the check engine light goes out when changing out the sump filter. Do not change gears until the engine light goes out.
+1 to the others. Great video and super informative. Helped me build the courage to diy instead of pay the epic shop fees. Take it slow, be thorough, and definitely change the gasket and the filter each time. It’s worth it.
I just did mine for the first time. I didn’t think it was that bad other than maneuvering the pan around once it’s off and holding it up while you start the bolts back in. I used a 6” 1/4 inch wobble extension and a low profile socket (from oreilys) and had no issues getting it on the bolts and using it to get them started again. The low profile socket might be the secret.
Thanks for the video! Wobble bit extensions might help a bit for those back 10mm bolts. @4:20 -- An oil catch flat sheet metal pan would be useful. Another You-Tuber used a flexible clear plastic tube to help take out the bolts (after broken loose) and put them back in (so he wouldn't strip them).
Get a 5/8" hose or whatever fits on the back bolt heads and use that to start the bolts. It also works good for hard to get at spark plugs. Nice video. Thanks
Thanks for the vid. The four back pan bolts are not hard at all. Either use a socket that captures the head and you can easily "lay" the bolt, socket and extension flat , sliding the bolt in from the side and then turning up to tighten. Second option...use a screw driver flat blade that wedges into the bolt head and move it into place carefully. You can actually turn a few times to thread and then switch to a socket. I actually threaded one in all the way just to see if I could. Also, torque values are: pan bolts - 62 inch pounds; Drain plug - 16 foot pounds; filter bolts - 88 inch pounds.
Remove three nuts from the transmission that go to the crossmember. Then use a jack on the transfer case and lift it about a half inch and it makes it a lot easier putting the pan back on. Also use a wobble socket.
appreciate the video man. i am buying a 2017 ram 3500 dually tomm and think its prolly a good idea to do that as soon as i get it. it has 185k miles. 6.7 diesel 4wd
Nice video. Should be added, if you live anywhere with road salt... it's best to use a little impact and maybe for penetrating fluid. I got the back ones easy with the wobbly extension, then very easily broke off the first front bolt i tried. After a quick Google search It's a common issue.
Have you considered changing the Thermal Bypass Valve which is in view on the outside of your transmission. If not, it is a valve that is poor design and ends up failing. Just a suggestion. Thanks for this video, very informative and well done.
@@srmcontracting it helps keep the trans cool. Factory one won’t open until trans gets to a certain temp. Did that on my 2017. Trans stayed way cooler even when towing. Rev max is who is buy from.
What timing on this upload, was just heading out to do mine now. Thanks a lot -- I'll be using a 1/4" drive wobbly extension for those back bolts I think.
@@srmcontracting It worked, but I won't be doing that again without a lift LOL. What a pain in the... Using the 1/4" drive wobbly I was able to get the four bolts started, but it took a lot of finessing. Thanks again!
I got the four bolts underneath the crossmember with no problem...just strait on. I used a Milwaukee 1/4" in drive 10MM standard sock with a 6" extension.
Thanks for a great video. I'm planning to do the first fluid change on my 3500 soon. (Filter change not needed for a while.) For a fluid-only change, is it standard procedure to just drain and re-fill? Or would a shop also drop the pan and clean the magnets?
I'm glad you liked it and thanks for watching! The manual says fluid only at 30k so it's probably safe to do just the fluid. I'm fairly certain that's all the dealer would do as well. Now if you have the time and your feeling ambitious dropping the pan and cleaning the magnets definitely wouldn't hurt anything. You might find the magnets caked with metallic particles and you'll be happy you checked. Or they might me clean and you spent a little extra time for some peace of mind. Hope this helps.
I suspect a shop may do a drain and fill but charge for a full change. Way to many hidden videos out there to prove it. It's a shame you can't trust em. Too bad about the filter drop mess but your reaction says a lot about your integrity. Most people would have let loose with some colorful words. When your kid asked if it was satisfying I spit out my coffee. Just struck me as 😂. Will subscribe.
That's what they did on mine at temhe 60k mark, I will be doing mine my self in about 5k miles. The dealer also wants to charge over 400 for the aisin transmission, it is 230 for the standard auto trans.
nice.. maybe a wobble to help put the two in the back,, the engineer need to be kicked,,, of the pan.. but good job.. :) oh and tripod.. use two hands on pan.
This was the first time on this truck. The book calls for fluid drain only at 30k and fluid drain and filter at 60K. My truck had 62K when I did it. Ive done filter and fluid drains on other trucks and the process is similar.
Sorry I don't know what the torque spec are for these bolts. But they're going into aluminum so you don't want to over tighten them. I use a small 1/4 ratchet and get them pretty tight. When you use a smaller ratchet it's harder to over torque. I'll check the pan for leaks a few times afterwards, so I can always get them a little tighter if need be. I hope this help.
Searched this online as I'm doing mine now thanks to Sean's video! Found a few docs that say 62 INCH pounds. LIke other said it's not much as I broke one with very little force removing them with my left hand.... Pan drain was listed as 25 Ft Lbs, Filter bolts were listed as 88 INCH lbs. Drilling out the broken bolt today. If anything I post here goes south I'll update
Dude. Getting the bolts back in are not difficult. Stick an extention 1/2 x 6 inches between the pan and the cross member and pry it open. The cross member moves, not the pan
Quick question. After you put new fluid in you say to cycle it on/off 5-6 times. You mean start engine then shut off 5-6 times or just cycle the key 5-6 times. Thanks.
How difficult is it to remove the crossmember?? Remove the nuts that hold the transmission to the crossmember then support the transmission with a jack then the 4 bolts on the crossmember??? Anyone ever do this?
@@stephenbaintonjr2718 Everything I researched says Yes! Must use ASRC, other than that some people reference a Mobil option and recently an Amsoil one, but I never found anything saying yes 100% so out of fear I just went with the ASRC
I did use the 1/4 for those bolts. Someone else suggested using a wobble extension which I think would have worked out really well. Thanks for watching!
You forgot to reprogramming the transmission, in case that you don’t know; that need to be done every time that you change the fluid on those ANSI transmission.
@@srmcontracting I contact the dealer they said it needs to be “reprogramming” but I guess that’s not the right word; it should be “reset”; if you look at the owner manual on the transmission chapter it will tell how to do it, they said that way you are let the transmission know that it have a fresh fluid and it will adapt to it otherwise can be damaged.
When he makes the mess then his kiddo asks if it was satisfying is so hilarious!! Thanks for the informative video man.
Thanks for the concise video, listening to your kid in the background made me miss doing projects when my kids were little. They were so inquisitive like your kid. I am tackling this project today, wish me luck. Larry
Excellent video. Save me from making my driveway look like the Valdez parked there! Your little one had me laughing!! No way I could have been that patient....
@6:07 was hilarious when your it spilled and your child asked was it satisfying lol. Gotta love our kids. My son is always there next to me when I'm working. Is not funny that it got on your camera and driveway. I usually use cardboard. Thanks for the video
Excellent video! Informative, good camera work and clear audio without a bunch of the usual unrelated fluff. I love when your kid asks you if it was satisfying when you make the mess! LOL
Great info here as I did all the 30 k fluid changes on my Ram 3500 ! , and on those four pan bolts at the cross member I used a piece of vacuum hose to reinstall and they went in like a charm with re- tightening with the 1/4 ratchet done likety split.. old school we used to install spark plugs with a piece of fuel line..fuel line too thick- used 3/8 vacuum line job done.. saved a boat load too.. doing it myself...thanks for getting me prepared for the Mess too..
I like the idea of the fuel hose! Another guy suggested a wobble extension, I definitely plan on trying both. Thanks for watching.
Also used a piece of clear hose that I heated the end to form around the head of the bolts and with a little guidance went right up AND threaded completely, so all that was left was the final torque which of course was "skill of the craft"
Thanks for this excellent video Sean. I have a 2014 Ram 3500 dually which I've been dreading doing a filter change on the Aisin because of those four almost inaccessible bolts at the rear of the pan. You made it look pretty easy. Now thanks to you I also know to watch out for a fluid shower when pulling down the filter. I appreciate your sacrifice. 😁👍🏼
You're very welcome, I'm glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
I performed this on my 2018 CCLB 3500 today. Thanks for the video! There was NO room for a 1/4" drive 10mm socket without removing the 3 transmission mount nuts in the cross member and jacking the transfer case/transmission up ~1-1/2". BTW, those are torqued to 50 ft-lbs. Take care
I came here to post this exact thing about my 2015 CCLB 3500 that I did this service on today. I also used a universal style swivel for my application, which works surprisingly well if you use short socket -> swivel -> 3"+ extension. for reinstall, once you get the tip in the hole, hold the extension up against the bottom of the pan and it will keep the bolt where it needs to be to start, otherwise the socket wanted to walk.
Another thing I did different than the video that I only thought of because of the messes made on camera, 1) drain the pan, reinstall the plug, leave the tub in place 2) drop all except 2 bolts near the front of the pan, re-remove the plug and slowly loosen the 2 remaining bolts to drain most of what's left. 3) finish dropping the pan, leave the pan on the drain pan where it was to catch the fluid 4) pull the filter over the top of the pan.
Thanks for the most important part of the video. You helped me. Restart your truck until the check engine light goes out when changing out the sump filter. Do not change gears until the engine light goes out.
Thanks, Glad it helped
+1 to the others. Great video and super informative. Helped me build the courage to diy instead of pay the epic shop fees. Take it slow, be thorough, and definitely change the gasket and the filter each time. It’s worth it.
Glad it helped!
The video was very helpful, but to be honest the kid made it. He is awesome... thanks!!!!
Thanks man
I just did mine for the first time. I didn’t think it was that bad other than maneuvering the pan around once it’s off and holding it up while you start the bolts back in. I used a 6” 1/4 inch wobble extension and a low profile socket (from oreilys) and had no issues getting it on the bolts and using it to get them started again. The low profile socket might be the secret.
I will be using a wobble extension next time for sure! Thanks for watching
Yessir great video.
Saved me 400 bucks, about 2 hours total if you count the the 10 minutes it took to order the oil and filter
Thanks for the video! Wobble bit extensions might help a bit for those back 10mm bolts. @4:20 -- An oil catch flat sheet metal pan would be useful. Another You-Tuber used a flexible clear plastic tube to help take out the bolts (after broken loose) and put them back in (so he wouldn't strip them).
Get a 5/8" hose or whatever fits on the back bolt heads and use that to start the bolts. It also works good for hard to get at spark plugs.
Nice video. Thanks
Thanks for the vid. The four back pan bolts are not hard at all. Either use a socket that captures the head and you can easily "lay" the bolt, socket and extension flat , sliding the bolt in from the side and then turning up to tighten. Second option...use a screw driver flat blade that wedges into the bolt head and move it into place carefully. You can actually turn a few times to thread and then switch to a socket. I actually threaded one in all the way just to see if I could. Also, torque values are: pan bolts - 62 inch pounds; Drain plug - 16 foot pounds; filter bolts - 88 inch pounds.
Lol very nice video. Commentary with father and son. " I made a mess...no it wasn't satisfying " lmao 😂
Thank you! I thought that moment was pretty great as well lol. Thanks for watching
Great video. The kids commentary was hilarious
Remove three nuts from the transmission that go to the crossmember. Then use a jack on the transfer case and lift it about a half inch and it makes it a lot easier putting the pan back on. Also use a wobble socket.
I will definitely be using a wobble socket for sure next time. Thanks for the advice!
appreciate the video man. i am buying a 2017 ram 3500 dually tomm and think its prolly a good idea to do that as soon as i get it. it has 185k miles. 6.7 diesel 4wd
Nice video. Should be added, if you live anywhere with road salt... it's best to use a little impact and maybe for penetrating fluid. I got the back ones easy with the wobbly extension, then very easily broke off the first front bolt i tried. After a quick Google search It's a common issue.
Would using a universal joint help with those back bolts? I was wonder how are you supposed to torque those? Just go by feel i guess?
Have you considered changing the Thermal Bypass Valve which is in view on the outside of your transmission. If not, it is a valve that is poor design and ends up failing. Just a suggestion. Thanks for this video, very informative and well done.
First time I heard about this valve. Does the valve wear out? Do you replace it with the same part? Thanks for watching and Thanks for the suggestion.
@@srmcontracting it helps keep the trans cool. Factory one won’t open until trans gets to a certain temp. Did that on my 2017. Trans stayed way cooler even when towing. Rev max is who is buy from.
No need to waste money on aftermarket bandage valve. Factory works great
I'm gonna use this video today thanks man!
Your welcome, good luck
Great video. Wonderful job. Thanks
What timing on this upload, was just heading out to do mine now. Thanks a lot -- I'll be using a 1/4" drive wobbly extension for those back bolts I think.
Thanks for watching I hope this video helps. Let me know how that wobble extension works out, another user suggested that as well.
@@srmcontracting It worked, but I won't be doing that again without a lift LOL. What a pain in the... Using the 1/4" drive wobbly I was able to get the four bolts started, but it took a lot of finessing. Thanks again!
Thanks for this brother! Big help!
Start cleaning and painting rusty pans myself Canadian climate salt thanks for the advice
Good video. Enjoyed abs made me laugh. I’m glad I watched it first
Thank you soo much with the Check Engine light /hard shift
You're welcome!
I got the four bolts underneath the crossmember with no problem...just strait on. I used a Milwaukee 1/4" in drive 10MM standard sock with a 6" extension.
I used a straw jambed into the top of the bolt to get it started. 5 mins tops for all 4.
Regarding the rear bolts, I replaced them with Allen bolts that were easier to start.
Thats a good idea, Thanks for watching!
Why not just pull a couple bolts / nuts for the transmission mount and jack the transmission up an inch? It made it so easy on my truck.
Thanks for a great video. I'm planning to do the first fluid change on my 3500 soon. (Filter change not needed for a while.) For a fluid-only change, is it standard procedure to just drain and re-fill? Or would a shop also drop the pan and clean the magnets?
I'm glad you liked it and thanks for watching! The manual says fluid only at 30k so it's probably safe to do just the fluid. I'm fairly certain that's all the dealer would do as well. Now if you have the time and your feeling ambitious dropping the pan and cleaning the magnets definitely wouldn't hurt anything. You might find the magnets caked with metallic particles and you'll be happy you checked. Or they might me clean and you spent a little extra time for some peace of mind. Hope this helps.
I suspect a shop may do a drain and fill but charge for a full change. Way to many hidden videos out there to prove it. It's a shame you can't trust em. Too bad about the filter drop mess but your reaction says a lot about your integrity. Most people would have let loose with some colorful words. When your kid asked if it was satisfying I spit out my coffee. Just struck me as 😂. Will subscribe.
That's what they did on mine at temhe 60k mark, I will be doing mine my self in about 5k miles. The dealer also wants to charge over 400 for the aisin transmission, it is 230 for the standard auto trans.
Great Vudeo! It was very helpful. Thank You.
Excellent video.. thanks 👍
Thank you, Glad you liked it!
Thank you for this information
Your welcome, Thanks for watching
Good job Sean good job.
Thanks for the great video
Your welcome, glad you enjoyed it.
Hey thanks for the video how many miles did you do this?
Your welcome, every 60k you need to do fluid and filter change
@@srmcontracting1st 30k and between that should be fluid only.
I asked at the dealer for price of transmission/filter change. They quoted me for $800. How much you spent doing it yourself ??
3 gallons of fluid and the filter was about $240. Thanks for watching!
$800? Lol. Typical.
Jus wanted to say thanks!
Thanks for a great tutorial
when i did a oil a filter,, with the pan off I let it drip for two days maybe three,, I end up put 12gts back in.. the shop said i only need 8gts
Thats one way to make sure you get all the old fluid out. Thanks for watching!
nice.. maybe a wobble to help put the two in the back,, the engineer need to be kicked,,, of the pan.. but good job.. :) oh and tripod.. use two hands on pan.
Thank you, I completely forgot about those wobble extensions! That is a great idea! I had the tripod out there too I'm just stubborn..
Glad I sold my 2014 3500 for 30K. Cheap bolts, parts, pieces and engineering-communication. I baby'ed mine and it was still messed up.
Great video
How many miles since you had done this before and how many miles does the truck have? Thank you for the video!
This was the first time on this truck. The book calls for fluid drain only at 30k and fluid drain and filter at 60K. My truck had 62K when I did it. Ive done filter and fluid drains on other trucks and the process is similar.
Hey Sean, Was wondering what you torqued your pan bolts down to?
Sorry I don't know what the torque spec are for these bolts. But they're going into aluminum so you don't want to over tighten them. I use a small 1/4 ratchet and get them pretty tight. When you use a smaller ratchet it's harder to over torque. I'll check the pan for leaks a few times afterwards, so I can always get them a little tighter if need be. I hope this help.
Searched this online as I'm doing mine now thanks to Sean's video! Found a few docs that say 62 INCH pounds. LIke other said it's not much as I broke one with very little force removing them with my left hand.... Pan drain was listed as 25 Ft Lbs, Filter bolts were listed as 88 INCH lbs. Drilling out the broken bolt today. If anything I post here goes south I'll update
Only take 9 …1/4 you are good to go
Thanks, good video
Dude. Getting the bolts back in are not difficult.
Stick an extention 1/2 x 6 inches between the pan and the cross member and pry it open.
The cross member moves, not the pan
Quick question. After you put new fluid in you say to cycle it on/off 5-6 times. You mean start engine then shut off 5-6 times or just cycle the key 5-6 times. Thanks.
Sorry for the delay, I missed this comment. You need to start the engine 5-6 times. Hope this help!
@@srmcontracting no worries. Appreciate the response. Perfect timing as I will be doing the oil change in the next couple weeks. Cheers.
how long did it take total? I know filming adds a bit to it.
How difficult is it to remove the crossmember?? Remove the nuts that hold the transmission to the crossmember then support the transmission with a jack then the 4 bolts on the crossmember??? Anyone ever do this?
Is it ATF+4 fluid? That’s what my local dealer told me but just want to make sure. If so I’m going with Schaefer’s All Trans Supreme.
If you have Aisin transmission it's Mopar ASRC fluid
@@srmcontracting so ASRC is different than ATF+4?
@@stephenbaintonjr2718 Everything I researched says Yes! Must use ASRC, other than that some people reference a Mobil option and recently an Amsoil one, but I never found anything saying yes 100% so out of fear I just went with the ASRC
Thanks a lot
Did you have any trans problems
I think 1/4 Drive with extension for those back ones would of been easier and lined up better
I did use the 1/4 for those bolts. Someone else suggested using a wobble extension which I think would have worked out really well. Thanks for watching!
A swivel adapter bud.
Did you use any thermal silicone with the gasket?
I didn't, I just laid it on the pan and it stayed in place.
How much fluid did it take to fill it up?
Same question here
@@cheesecakeproductions9298 it took me 7qts without filter change and 14qts with filter change.
Use a swivel socket.
Dam. So is it 8qt if not doing the filter?
Sorry for the delay, should be 6-8
Think I’ll stick with the G56
Pitter patter…let’s get at ‘er.
Mine is an 8mm…. ?
You forgot to reprogramming the transmission, in case that you don’t know; that need to be done every time that you change the fluid on those ANSI transmission.
What do you mean "reprogram"? I've changed the fluid 3 times and haven't done anything different.
@@srmcontracting
I contact the dealer they said it needs to be “reprogramming” but I guess that’s not the right word; it should be “reset”; if you look at the owner manual on the transmission chapter it will tell how to do it, they said that way you are let the transmission know that it have a fresh fluid and it will adapt to it otherwise can be damaged.
@@lisandrofernandez1503 there is no reset for the transmission, It is only for :
Engine oil
Diesel fuel filter.
@@rorotkt16 quick/relearn is the name, last week I did my flush and took it to the dealer since I can’t do it with my scanner and they did for me.
@@lisandrofernandez1503 what do they exactly do??
You don't have to use Mopar atf fluid in Toyota/Aisin Transmission. There are other superior fluids available for Japanese Transmission.
Like what? Thx you
@@AlbertoGonzalez-tc2ju, www.amsoil.com/c/automatic-transmission-fluid/20/?zo=5257753
Mobil 3309
@@chadfiege7539 , worse than Toyota ws.
Dude…. Brake fluid level….. a weeeee bit low!!
What do you mean? I’m currently dealing with an issue with my ram