Thank you! 40+ years into everything RC, these are a bargain! In the 90’s I started using Aveox brushless motors in hydroplanes……a motor/esc like the Furitek would have cost $750+………and not nearly as good………or reliable😎
Hi. Love your k989 videos. I can't find the video but you mentioned some time ago that you fitted a 12 tooth plastic diff pinion on the k989 by grinding the old worn one down. Where did you get the pinion from as the dimensions are obviously critical.
It's a gear from "plastic gears for small robot" bag I got off ebay and banggood. These things usually have mod0.5 pitch so they mesh with the diff. However what I did with 15T was for drifting and the diff will also need some modifications. Here's the video. th-cam.com/video/t6PiUq-_9lI/w-d-xo.html
Wow. Thanks for the v.quick response. I have bought the 989 for drifting and tried it stock out of the box for about ten minutes to make sure it all worked then stripped the car down to every nut and bolt to make it RWD etc etc as per your videos and found the rear pinion already worn badly so I need to make some mods to improve this weak component. The front diff pinion was not worn but obviously its a different part so not useable on the rear as a spare. I like the look of the drift art toothed belt and wonder if that could be modded to fit. Cheers Bob
You can unplug it after you finished setting. Well, turn it off first before unplug. The settings are stored on the ESC. You don't have to plug it in if you are not doing any setup or using the telemetry.
Unfortunately, no. It's not just the wheelbase but the width as well. You will have to make much more custom parts to make WLtoys a narrow chassis to fit Mini-Z 94mm body.
Check out HRC Arena. www.hrcarena.store/item/Pre-Order-DriftArt2-DA2-CC-Drift-Chassis/6394566424002560?lang=en Seems to be the only shop that it's still available.
Take a look at Atomic DRZ3. Atomic is generally more beginner friendly than DriftArt. But if you already have experience building, fixing and tuning other cars then DriftArt 3S is an excellent choice.
I play with 1/10 rwd drift before, but now I need a new micro drift car for new experience. Do this chassis will do any good for me? I don't mind in hard or complete build process. I just want the best chassis that I will never regret.
I can assure you this is one of the best you can buy at the moment (at least until they decide to make 2.7 or 3.0). You can tune every aspect of it even the motor position for weight distribution right out of the box. However don't expect the droop to be at the lower arm where it usually is. It's the screw on top of the shock.
Cheapest one is HGV1 (basically HGD1 but plastic) on aliexpress but it's certainly not the best. The best affordable RWD drifter is BMR-X. It's about $139 (as far as I remember) but needs specific wheel so that will add about $30. So, chassis + wheels + tyres is about $169 and it's one of the easiest chassis to drift.
@@foxhoundra6444 They have very limited adjustability. Only a few degree of camber and toe. Spring setup is limited and suspension travel is not good. Steering angle is not as good as other cars. That's why you need a good gyro to catch the drift.
This one is in a different league in terms of customisation, tuning and driving capability. However if you just want something to slide around for fun and you can find HGD1 for under 120 USD, it'll be enough.
I just built the new 2022 GL Racing GLD drift chassis. I see a lot of negative comments for the earlier version. I honestly think it is pretty good and I am a newbie at RC drifting. Do you think this kit is better than the GL Racing GLD drift chassis?
In some aspect, yes, I do think DriftArt is better out of the box. GLD will need some upgrades or modifications to get the full steering lock out of it. But the car is actually a kit car with injection molded parts while DriftArt feels more like a DIY project. The differential on GLD is also extremely smooth. GLD was the first narrow car done right (keep all the dimensions correct) and it is still my favourite despite the first batch problems.
Hi beaver Ive just received the 2.6 cc plus . Which set up do you recommend? As in servo/motor/esc/gyro.? Ive ordered the rear adjustable linkages but im now thinking along the electrics . what would be the cheapest setup also…? My sunday will be making the chassis 😉 Thanks again
There's only one servo you can use so it's either AGF A11CLS or AFRC D2114TG-S. Pick one that you can get the cheapest. The USB programmer is entirely optional, you don't need that. Motor, take a look at Surpass Rocket 1410 v2. It's the best budget motor I've tried. ESC, DasMikro V3 will do fine. Or if you can find Atomic Brushless Sensorless ESC for similar price, that one is also great. Gyro is one thing you can't do much. It's the AFRC GYS-2 V3 variant. There are many brands with the same board so as long as you get the V3 that has EPA setting it'll be fine. Try to find the brand that you can get the cheapest. There're AGF GY04M V3, Yeah Racing Hackslider V3, etc.
94mm wheelbase ~ 5 degree front camber ~ 2 degree front toe out ~ 3 degree rear camber ~ 1 degree rear toe in I didn't really measure the suspension setup though, these are estimation from just eyeballing it. I just turn the linkages until I feel comfortable driving it.
@@BeaversHobby thanks friend... Just in the throes of choosing a chassis after hgd1. I want to buy da2.6, but my friends dissuade me. They say da2.6 is very difficult to set up. And they offer me to buy drz or gld
@@Guchiboyka What makes it difficult is that the front linkages are all tie together so when you adjust the caster, it will also pull the camber, toe and also steering angle. Something like this happens a lot so DriftArt is really not for a beginner. Either DRZ or GLD will be easier to build and setup. But if you are up for the challenge, DriftArt drives the best as far as I've tried.
Hi Beaver. Isn't 5500 KV motor too much for this car? I'm using 3500 and think it is a sweet point for this scale, so you do not need to lower your throttle epa
Yes, 5500KV is too much especially for my track side. This is Furitek so I limit it in the setting to 80%, re-adjust throttle curved and enable the low-speed mode so it slows the motor down even more.
@@BeaversHobby By the way, didn't you meet an issue with brass nuts? I couldn't insert them all the way in to carbon fiber parts and now the steering arms hit those nuts when I steer. Sometimes it can even cause steering jam, which can be dangerous for a servo. So I had to put some washers under carbon fiber parts to make sure my steering can work freely wihout jamming
@@Shiromorimine That changed the designed slightly from the 2.5. Now it doesn't go all the way in. You will have to insert the ball head to the other side so it pulls the brass nut onto the carbon plate. My fitment and clearance at the steering are good and I don't have to use any washers. However you'll have to see how the servo swings so it doesn't interfere with other parts.
Appreciate the quick review! I was on the fence between the CC plus and EX. What do you recommend for the rest of the electronics? I am not sure which motor/esc/receiver/gyro to get. I am looking to use my 90 and 94mm kyosho bodies from my MA-020 on a drift art platform. I also have a KT-531P and Futaba 4PM controller.
Since you already have the Futaba 4PM you can get a micro T-FHSS or S-FHSS receiver from MxO or Dasmikro. It'll come with JST-ZH plug. Motor: any 1410 or 1625 motor is the right size, KV depends on your track size. For under 3m track the 3500KV is the general one you can use then play with the gear ratio. Or 5500KV and tune it down with programming. ESC: if you want to stick with sensorless or keep the cost (relatively) low, a great one is either Atomic ESC or GL Racing ESC, it'll have Hobbywing programming. You can also go all in with the Furitek I use in this video. It has the best tech right now with real-time tuning via bluetooth. Or sensored system like Swave or Team Powers M-Radon for high budget build. Gyro: the best size per performance is AGFrc GY04M V3 or AFRC GYS-2 V3 or anything that looks similar (they are pretty much the same unit with different branding). As long as it's the current version with EPA setting it'll be fine. You can also use something like Futaba GYD550 if you want to go high budget.
Actually you should go with the new hobby wing mini sensor system. A 25 KV motor The receiver from GT racing and a AO1 Gyro and servo. Personally I would go with a zero chassis over the drift art EX or cc plus. It’s all the way around a better chassis. How do I know I own both. The fact that he won’t do an honest review because he got the car for free is disgusting.
@@BeaversHobby Really appreciate your detailed response. :) Everything you mentioned lines up with the research I have done. I saw the receiver from MxO and they have one with a gyro included. Do you have any experience with the one with gyro built in? The furitek system looks interesting but I am hesitant as one of your earlier reviews said they have connectivity issues. Do you know if they fixed this by now?
@@danielmoriarty751 thanks for your insight! I am not completely familiar with some of the things you listed but a quick search for them seems like they are a bit more difficult to source for me. This makes it a bit harder to pull the trigger unfortunately. I have just seen hobbywings mini28 and it looks very promising. I am definitely keeping an eye on that! Regarding TH-camr/influencers review honesty, I can’t say much about that. I can say though is that at least this channel, and others has helped me understand more about the micro rc drift hobby a lot. Of course, people should always do their own research and not completely believe everything they hear / read 👍
@@vpvnguyen I don't have the MxO with gyro so I can't comment on how good their gyro is. I only have the integrated gyro on other receivers and it's generally OK. It's not the fastest nor the most precise. It works great on touring car and AWD drift cars but not so much on RWD drift cars. As for the Furitek, it got better but still not perfect. I recently got an Android 11 tablet with their latest app and it connects much easier so the problem might be on the side of my old device (Android 7.1). But again, don't expect it to gain the connection instantly every time. You might have to turn the bluetooth off and on then restart the car to get it working once in a while.
It's almost the same except EX has adjustable rear width. If you have 2.5 SE it's good already, no need to upgrade unless you need wide rear width. They also sell the upgrade separately.
Yes, it will. But if you don't keep doing and undoing the screws constantly the original printed parts are super strong already so as long as the screws don't fall off it will also last a long time.
You want an honest opinion? It’s an over priced pile of shit. It’s no better than the summer edition comes with less upgrades and cost twice as much. I would be looking at HRC, atomic, and zero way better chassis actual molded parts instead of 3-D printed garbage and definitely a hell of a lot easier to assemble. How do I know? Because I was dumb enough to buy it after watching this clowns videos talking about how great it is. I’m assuming if he actually spent his own hard earned money on it he would definitely be singing a different tune
Maybe you should’ve checked it out a little bit better before doing the first video telling everybody it comes with all of the upgrades and how great it is. I get it drift art sent it to you for free the rest of us actually had to pay for this piece of shit. It is an even remotely close to being worth what I paid for it. Maybe I should start a channel so people can actually get an honest review. I love how you backtrack on everything you said on the first video.
Wow so edgy and funny, trying to shame a non-native speaker for not having the accent of a… native speaker! You are probably not the sharpest tool in the shed aren’t you?
![[Review] DriftArt 2.5 CC Why is it so good? | Unboxing & Test Drive](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fIBy5nHS6i8/mqdefault.jpg)
The prices on these mini drifters is insane. It makes me appreciate what WLtoys put together for $50. Beaver’s build series on k969/989 is so good!
Honestly when you drive a drift art compared to a k989 you'll understand 👍 I felt the same before I got my hands on onr
He is amazing 👏
Thank you!
40+ years into everything RC, these are a bargain!
In the 90’s I started using Aveox brushless motors in hydroplanes……a motor/esc like the Furitek would have cost $750+………and not nearly as good………or reliable😎
That comment makes no sense for so many reasons. "Bargain" was the word you used. Wow.
love your videos man, i hope you will continue to give us great content like this
That thing is so sick I need a nice micro drift build
Hi. Love your k989 videos. I can't find the video but you mentioned some time ago that you fitted a 12 tooth plastic diff pinion on the k989 by grinding the old worn one down. Where did you get the pinion from as the dimensions are obviously critical.
It's a gear from "plastic gears for small robot" bag I got off ebay and banggood. These things usually have mod0.5 pitch so they mesh with the diff.
However what I did with 15T was for drifting and the diff will also need some modifications. Here's the video. th-cam.com/video/t6PiUq-_9lI/w-d-xo.html
Wow. Thanks for the v.quick response. I have bought the 989 for drifting and tried it stock out of the box for about ten minutes to make sure it all worked then stripped the car down to every nut and bolt to make it RWD etc etc as per your videos and found the rear pinion already worn badly so I need to make some mods to improve this weak component. The front diff pinion was not worn but obviously its a different part so not useable on the rear as a spare. I like the look of the drift art toothed belt and wonder if that could be modded to fit.
Cheers
Bob
@@thurgogopro5338 My pleasure. Best of luck with the project!
The best micro drifter ever
I can't wait for the supra 1/24, that should be good to watch. Much love✌
Hi Beaver. Furitek realised their new Momentum V2 ESC recently. Will you make a review and comparison with V1?
Not sure about that yet. It's basically the same except V2 has fixed the battery drain problem when leaving it plugged in.
If I unplug the Bluetooth part on the furitek esc will my car not run ? Or will it remember the setting it last had when connected to my phone ?
You can unplug it after you finished setting. Well, turn it off first before unplug. The settings are stored on the ESC.
You don't have to plug it in if you are not doing any setup or using the telemetry.
@@BeaversHobby thank you very much very helpful I’ll be getting one very soon!
great video. hope you do a review ones it's all extended .
can you modify k989 to fit 94mm body for kyosho miniz
Unfortunately, no. It's not just the wheelbase but the width as well. You will have to make much more custom parts to make WLtoys a narrow chassis to fit Mini-Z 94mm body.
hi
I want to buy a driftart 2.6 but on every site i go they don't have it in stock , where can i get it ?
Check out HRC Arena. www.hrcarena.store/item/Pre-Order-DriftArt2-DA2-CC-Drift-Chassis/6394566424002560?lang=en
Seems to be the only shop that it's still available.
@@BeaversHobby thanks
Thank you for this review.
I'd like to buy my first RWD 1/28 drifter. Which chassis would you recommend, for a beginner ?
Take a look at Atomic DRZ3. Atomic is generally more beginner friendly than DriftArt. But if you already have experience building, fixing and tuning other cars then DriftArt 3S is an excellent choice.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for your answer. I'm gonna see that.👍
you should make a collection video!!
I play with 1/10 rwd drift before, but now I need a new micro drift car for new experience. Do this chassis will do any good for me? I don't mind in hard or complete build process. I just want the best chassis that I will never regret.
I can assure you this is one of the best you can buy at the moment (at least until they decide to make 2.7 or 3.0). You can tune every aspect of it even the motor position for weight distribution right out of the box. However don't expect the droop to be at the lower arm where it usually is. It's the screw on top of the shock.
What's the best cheapest rear wheel drive drift rc?
Cheapest one is HGV1 (basically HGD1 but plastic) on aliexpress but it's certainly not the best. The best affordable RWD drifter is BMR-X. It's about $139 (as far as I remember) but needs specific wheel so that will add about $30. So, chassis + wheels + tyres is about $169 and it's one of the easiest chassis to drift.
@@BeaversHobby awesome thanks for the info, what are the issues with driving the hgd1 and the hgv1?
@@foxhoundra6444 They have very limited adjustability. Only a few degree of camber and toe. Spring setup is limited and suspension travel is not good. Steering angle is not as good as other cars. That's why you need a good gyro to catch the drift.
How you find this chassis comparing to the HGD1 as a chassis for a casual drifting at home? Is it the game changer?
This one is in a different league in terms of customisation, tuning and driving capability. However if you just want something to slide around for fun and you can find HGD1 for under 120 USD, it'll be enough.
I just built the new 2022 GL Racing GLD drift chassis. I see a lot of negative comments for the earlier version. I honestly think it is pretty good and I am a newbie at RC drifting. Do you think this kit is better than the GL Racing GLD drift chassis?
In some aspect, yes, I do think DriftArt is better out of the box. GLD will need some upgrades or modifications to get the full steering lock out of it. But the car is actually a kit car with injection molded parts while DriftArt feels more like a DIY project. The differential on GLD is also extremely smooth. GLD was the first narrow car done right (keep all the dimensions correct) and it is still my favourite despite the first batch problems.
Hi beaver
Ive just received the 2.6 cc plus . Which set up do you recommend?
As in servo/motor/esc/gyro.?
Ive ordered the rear adjustable linkages but im now thinking along the electrics .
what would be the cheapest setup also…?
My sunday will be making the chassis 😉
Thanks again
There's only one servo you can use so it's either AGF A11CLS or AFRC D2114TG-S. Pick one that you can get the cheapest. The USB programmer is entirely optional, you don't need that.
Motor, take a look at Surpass Rocket 1410 v2. It's the best budget motor I've tried.
ESC, DasMikro V3 will do fine. Or if you can find Atomic Brushless Sensorless ESC for similar price, that one is also great.
Gyro is one thing you can't do much. It's the AFRC GYS-2 V3 variant. There are many brands with the same board so as long as you get the V3 that has EPA setting it'll be fine. Try to find the brand that you can get the cheapest. There're AGF GY04M V3, Yeah Racing Hackslider V3, etc.
Do you like the atomic V4 gyro, is it the same internals?
I have a carbon fiber chassis hgd1 I haven’t put it together all the way, I neee w lot more stuff but it’s toughhh
Very cool video my friend😎😎😎👍👍👍
What chassis setup are you using? (1/28)
94mm wheelbase
~ 5 degree front camber
~ 2 degree front toe out
~ 3 degree rear camber
~ 1 degree rear toe in
I didn't really measure the suspension setup though, these are estimation from just eyeballing it. I just turn the linkages until I feel comfortable driving it.
@@BeaversHobby thanks friend... Just in the throes of choosing a chassis after hgd1. I want to buy da2.6, but my friends dissuade me. They say da2.6 is very difficult to set up. And they offer me to buy drz or gld
@@Guchiboyka What makes it difficult is that the front linkages are all tie together so when you adjust the caster, it will also pull the camber, toe and also steering angle. Something like this happens a lot so DriftArt is really not for a beginner. Either DRZ or GLD will be easier to build and setup. But if you are up for the challenge, DriftArt drives the best as far as I've tried.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for answers!! Waiting for new videos))
Hi Beaver. Isn't 5500 KV motor too much for this car? I'm using 3500 and think it is a sweet point for this scale, so you do not need to lower your throttle epa
Yes, 5500KV is too much especially for my track side. This is Furitek so I limit it in the setting to 80%, re-adjust throttle curved and enable the low-speed mode so it slows the motor down even more.
@@BeaversHobby By the way, didn't you meet an issue with brass nuts? I couldn't insert them all the way in to carbon fiber parts and now the steering arms hit those nuts when I steer. Sometimes it can even cause steering jam, which can be dangerous for a servo. So I had to put some washers under carbon fiber parts to make sure my steering can work freely wihout jamming
@@Shiromorimine That changed the designed slightly from the 2.5. Now it doesn't go all the way in. You will have to insert the ball head to the other side so it pulls the brass nut onto the carbon plate. My fitment and clearance at the steering are good and I don't have to use any washers. However you'll have to see how the servo swings so it doesn't interfere with other parts.
Good job Buddy
Appreciate the quick review! I was on the fence between the CC plus and EX.
What do you recommend for the rest of the electronics? I am not sure which motor/esc/receiver/gyro to get. I am looking to use my 90 and 94mm kyosho bodies from my MA-020 on a drift art platform. I also have a KT-531P and Futaba 4PM controller.
Since you already have the Futaba 4PM you can get a micro T-FHSS or S-FHSS receiver from MxO or Dasmikro. It'll come with JST-ZH plug.
Motor: any 1410 or 1625 motor is the right size, KV depends on your track size. For under 3m track the 3500KV is the general one you can use then play with the gear ratio. Or 5500KV and tune it down with programming.
ESC: if you want to stick with sensorless or keep the cost (relatively) low, a great one is either Atomic ESC or GL Racing ESC, it'll have Hobbywing programming. You can also go all in with the Furitek I use in this video. It has the best tech right now with real-time tuning via bluetooth. Or sensored system like Swave or Team Powers M-Radon for high budget build.
Gyro: the best size per performance is AGFrc GY04M V3 or AFRC GYS-2 V3 or anything that looks similar (they are pretty much the same unit with different branding). As long as it's the current version with EPA setting it'll be fine. You can also use something like Futaba GYD550 if you want to go high budget.
Actually you should go with the new hobby wing mini sensor system. A 25 KV motor The receiver from GT racing and a AO1 Gyro and servo. Personally I would go with a zero chassis over the drift art EX or cc plus. It’s all the way around a better chassis. How do I know I own both. The fact that he won’t do an honest review because he got the car for free is disgusting.
@@BeaversHobby Really appreciate your detailed response. :)
Everything you mentioned lines up with the research I have done.
I saw the receiver from MxO and they have one with a gyro included. Do you have any experience with the one with gyro built in?
The furitek system looks interesting but I am hesitant as one of your earlier reviews said they have connectivity issues. Do you know if they fixed this by now?
@@danielmoriarty751 thanks for your insight! I am not completely familiar with some of the things you listed but a quick search for them seems like they are a bit more difficult to source for me. This makes it a bit harder to pull the trigger unfortunately.
I have just seen hobbywings mini28 and it looks very promising. I am definitely keeping an eye on that!
Regarding TH-camr/influencers review honesty, I can’t say much about that. I can say though is that at least this channel, and others has helped me understand more about the micro rc drift hobby a lot. Of course, people should always do their own research and not completely believe everything they hear / read 👍
@@vpvnguyen I don't have the MxO with gyro so I can't comment on how good their gyro is. I only have the integrated gyro on other receivers and it's generally OK. It's not the fastest nor the most precise. It works great on touring car and AWD drift cars but not so much on RWD drift cars.
As for the Furitek, it got better but still not perfect.
I recently got an Android 11 tablet with their latest app and it connects much easier so the problem might be on the side of my old device (Android 7.1). But again, don't expect it to gain the connection instantly every time. You might have to turn the bluetooth off and on then restart the car to get it working once in a while.
Do you think the 2.5 Summer Edition was better than this EX?
It's almost the same except EX has adjustable rear width. If you have 2.5 SE it's good already, no need to upgrade unless you need wide rear width. They also sell the upgrade separately.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks. I agree with you 100%.
hello beavers hobby. can you do a review kn the hobbywing mini28.
I'll try.
@@BeaversHobby thanks beaver hobby 🥰🥰
wow cool, I can only dream of playing it.. 👍👍🇮🇩🇮🇩
Do you think the new aluminium parts will make it much more durable in the long run?
Also really looking forward to seeing the new supra build! 😁
Yes, it will. But if you don't keep doing and undoing the screws constantly the original printed parts are super strong already so as long as the screws don't fall off it will also last a long time.
Great video, I really like hearing your honest opinion in those videos man, please keep it up!🙂
You want an honest opinion? It’s an over priced pile of shit. It’s no better than the summer edition comes with less upgrades and cost twice as much. I would be looking at HRC, atomic, and zero way better chassis actual molded parts instead of 3-D printed garbage and definitely a hell of a lot easier to assemble. How do I know? Because I was dumb enough to buy it after watching this clowns videos talking about how great it is. I’m assuming if he actually spent his own hard earned money on it he would definitely be singing a different tune
🍺🍺🙌🙌
ราคาไม่ถ฿กเลยแต่เท่เสียงเงียบมสกเพราะ ใช้ระบบสายพาน เหมือนะวกรถ1/10
Hard to believe people are paying other rwd chassis for 600. Going anywhere over 300 things start feeling the same.
🤓
how tf does it sounds like a V8
Maybe you should’ve checked it out a little bit better before doing the first video telling everybody it comes with all of the upgrades and how great it is. I get it drift art sent it to you for free the rest of us actually had to pay for this piece of shit. It is an even remotely close to being worth what I paid for it. Maybe I should start a channel so people can actually get an honest review. I love how you backtrack on everything you said on the first video.
is that his real voice or a joke
Wow so edgy and funny, trying to shame a non-native speaker for not having the accent of a… native speaker! You are probably not the sharpest tool in the shed aren’t you?