Next project is simple... Remove any rock/slop in the tool holder by milling away all but *3 POINTS* from the bottom plane. I did my own version of what you did here and was very surprised that I was still not rigid. I did a test by putting 3 shims under the tool holder out at the edges and spaced roughly 60 degrees apart, tightened down the holder and the reduction in movement was triple what I gained from eliminating the compound.
Excellent project Michel, I have never considered this, however it brings to light how rarely I do use the compound slide, and how much rigidity I am sacrificing. Nice work, and a nice pile of swarf, cheers !
Hello Michel, Good work... I think on the more lightweight machines having a solid tool post is a good idea... I am looking forward to seeing the 4 Jaw Chuck video... Take care. Paul,,
I made this tool post in the first place to win some space for the tail stock. Rigidity was not really a problem. And for the 4 jaw, first i have to figure out something.
Great job. My wife look at me strangely (least more than usual) when I yelled out “take it to the shaper……no the shaper…..yes yes the shaper.” I think I will do the same. The only time I use the compound is single point threading. Thanks for the inspiration.
That slug of metal that Michel used looked really strange to me, like a wedge of cork mounted on a piece of bronze - an interesting rust pattern. Thank you for the video, Michel. I hope you are recovering well.
I have started making one for my Myford S7 and then i will make one for the Colchester MK1.. it's it's great beginners project... thank you for sharing
Yes! Solid toolpost definitely in my box of projects to do. Stefan Gotteswinter and Robin Renzetti were my inspiration. Also I am ditching any quick change or rotating tool holder at the same time. Having acquired a mill, a shaper and a surface grinder will make short work of projects like these. I will be making a square block and add two T-bolts in the base so I will have four in total, which is pretty much required for solid and evenly distributed clamping. Also I will have to try my hand at hand scraping, this would make a great project. Although hand scraping and hardening/ grinding are sort of mutually exclusive. Not decided yet which way I'll go.
@@Rustinox So many things to do! In fact the icing on the cake will be adding a post to put on the dial indicator arm. Another great invention by Rob Renzetti.
Thanks for the great video. I had cataract surgery so I've spent the day doing virtual machining. I was surprised to find that I wasn't subscribed, so I fixed that. My two cents on this topic follows the same logic and goals as most solid post videos I've watched. Increased rigidity being the goal. Synonymous with rigidity is minimal overhang and a design that helps counteract cutting forces. For this reason I think a third T - Nut + Screw would be beneficially located at the center line rear of the riser block. Let's face it, the two T-Nuts that you have are not ideally located to counteract the downward force of cutting tools. This tends to lift the rear side of the riser block. If you put a dial gauge on rear of the riser block you can probably measure it on a very heavy parting cut. Wakodahatchee Chris
G’day Michel. Great work on the tool post modification mate. That was a big old chunk of steel mate. Cheers Rusti 🍻. Aaron. PS: I laughed at the start when you were pulling out all that swarf 😂
Turned out well for a bit of random stock.👍. Love that shaper..will be a while before my tiny shaper will be making chips. Regards Stuart from NE England.
As I'm sending this message to you, it's currently USA 12am Saturday. You are really good, about (explain) what your plan to actually do first. I personally enjoy 😁and watch what you're doing. Yes, that compound feature, gets in a darn location to use the Lathe
Nicely done with what was there on hand! I need to make a similar block for my machine once I can start machining again. My buddy Eldon made one for his lathe and it worked wonders for him too.
Wow! Great job Rusty 😀! That looks fantastic! Perhaps you could tap the top of that bolt too to accommodate an indicator mount 😊. In any case, that's gonna work great! Cheers!
@@Rustinox I sold a small amount, maybe 140 kilo of scrap steel and iron at the local scrap metal yard for $40 US. The price for scrap is high currently because of the lock down.
Great video. I especially like the part where you mentioned chuck overhang. New after market chucks on smaller lathes are terrible. I have 3 or 4 videos on this subject and to be honest they are my only videos with negative comments. Apparently I'm not very convincing.
@@Rustinox Yes. Also spindle diameter is a big factor. With smaller threaded spindles the threads are actually the weak point. I replaced 2 of my cast plates with steel on my larger chucks with a 1.5" spindle. This resolved the movement at the threads and helped the chatter but did nothing about the spindle flex.
Thanks alot for this video - I have just aquired a new (larger) lathe and faced just the same problems you've been having. Now I know there is a solution - I'll have to contemplate whether I'm happy with "working around" the issue - with long tool stickouts and the lot - or build a fixed toolpost base like you did. Well done!
That came out perfectly Rusty - nice work! Also, I am noticing recently that you are putting more time into video editing, this video flew by with the snappy cuts and interesting shots :-) Thanks!
Great job, I think you need bigger "Turn Ups" on your trousers to catch the swarf (chips). Plenty of meat taken off that bone 😉. Thanks for sharing, and stay safe.
I like that you still retain the flexibilty of turning the tool post. Too many of these conversions force you to remain perpendicular. Let's face it, most people hardly turn a taper so the compound (top slide) can go in the drawer. If you want more clamping force holding that fat block to your cross slide, you could always add 2 more bolts to hold it down. Thanks for showing this, I'll put it on my list. Subbed!
The things I notice : The sweet music of a sharp file . You must take much better care of your mill files than I do ! ....... and your oil can ! If I remember right, you thought that it may have "given up the ghost" at one time . Does my memory fail me ?
@@Rustinox - I’m glad to hear it! I think every lathe with a compound slide suffers from reduced rigidity and bad clearance, so perhaps I might make something like that for my lathe too!
The biggest advantage of the quick change tool holder is not that you can change tools quickly, in my opinion. A really big advantage is that you can easily fine-tune the tool height, as well as use different size tools in the same holder. This means that you don't have to be super precise in making the solid tool post, since you can adjust your tools on the QC tool holder very easily.
Nice one Michele! You've inspired me yet again. I've got to ask a question though ! The rivet ? Was it actually a repurposed wood fixing ? As in a nail 🤔🤔🤔
I'm sorry that I don't have a sticker to stick onto your cheap door. But I sent you a consolation prize at my friend's personal junkyard in the middle of Southeast Alberta Canada. LOL right in the middle. Feel free to insert an image or two of the Badlands
Michael I have two pieces of stock on hand I can how make around one per your design. A triangle design like a lot of TH-camrs do the best of two worlds From Down Under
It's rare you find such a genuine Honest down to earth person as Michele. One of my favorite channels. Roger from OZ
Thanks for the kind words Roger.
Michel, I am happy to see you well and working in the shop. I am going to make one of these tool posts for my 12" Atlas, Thanks.
Thanks Carl. Have fun with it.
I like that. You got me thinking of where I’m going to find the metal to make one myself. Thanks again! Take Care.
I'm sure you will find something useful one day.
Loving the shaper work, lot of usefull info. Shapers seem to be a lost art
Thanks Rob. Shapers are fun to operate.
Hey Michele, nice engineering of the new tool post setup. The real test will be if you can part off without chatter. See you soon.
Thanks. The chatter problem comes from too much chuck overhang.
I have to dig in to that one day.
Many obstacles to overcome, but u finally succeeded. Good job, Michel....top..and lookin nice too. Regards from Frankfurt.
Thank you Music Man. No obstacles no fun :-)
Dear man of rust...You have become my favorite youtube machinist. Thanks for sharing.
Wow, thanks Hans.
Very nice work Michel. Gary
Thank you Gary.
Next project is simple... Remove any rock/slop in the tool holder by milling away all but *3 POINTS* from the bottom plane. I did my own version of what you did here and was very surprised that I was still not rigid. I did a test by putting 3 shims under the tool holder out at the edges and spaced roughly 60 degrees apart, tightened down the holder and the reduction in movement was triple what I gained from eliminating the compound.
As shown in the video i lowered the top surface a bit and left just a rim. It works very well.
Excellent project Michel, I have never considered this, however it brings to light how rarely I do use the compound slide, and how much rigidity I am sacrificing. Nice work, and a nice pile of swarf, cheers !
Thanks. It works great and it's easy to reinstall the top slide.
Hello Michel,
Good work... I think on the more lightweight machines having a solid tool post is a good idea... I am looking forward to seeing the 4 Jaw Chuck video...
Take care.
Paul,,
I made this tool post in the first place to win some space for the tail stock. Rigidity was not really a problem.
And for the 4 jaw, first i have to figure out something.
Great project Michel. Thank you for sharing!
Joe
You're welcome. It was great fun to do.
It's an honour to be on the door Michel! Good work on the solid tool post too. Stefan and Robin will be proud of you.
Thanks Mark.
Great job. My wife look at me strangely (least more than usual) when I yelled out “take it to the shaper……no the shaper…..yes yes the shaper.”
I think I will do the same. The only time I use the compound is single point threading. Thanks for the inspiration.
Go for it. Just make it easy to switch to the compount again.
That slug of metal that Michel used looked really strange to me, like a wedge of cork mounted on a piece of bronze - an interesting rust pattern. Thank you for the video, Michel. I hope you are recovering well.
Thanks Richard. The rust is gone now :-)
I have started making one for my Myford S7 and then i will make one for the Colchester MK1.. it's it's great beginners project... thank you for sharing
Go for it!
Yes! Solid toolpost definitely in my box of projects to do. Stefan Gotteswinter and Robin Renzetti were my inspiration. Also I am ditching any quick change or rotating tool holder at the same time. Having acquired a mill, a shaper and a surface grinder will make short work of projects like these. I will be making a square block and add two T-bolts in the base so I will have four in total, which is pretty much required for solid and evenly distributed clamping. Also I will have to try my hand at hand scraping, this would make a great project. Although hand scraping and hardening/ grinding are sort of mutually exclusive. Not decided yet which way I'll go.
I'm sure you will figure it out :)
@@Rustinox So many things to do! In fact the icing on the cake will be adding a post to put on the dial indicator arm. Another great invention by Rob Renzetti.
Nice job! Looks great and so much more rigid. All the best!
Eddie
Thanks Eddie. This was more to make place for the tail stock.
I was thinking about you today , while i was using my beloved compound slide ! Cheers Rusty .
I can always put it back on :-)
Good job as always. We shared this video in our homemade tools forum this week :)
Awesome. Thank you.
Lots of metal removal but excellent results. Congrats on a job well done Michel.
Thank you Harold.
Go to see you are looking good and healthy.
Thanks for sharing your work with us.
Cheers
Thanks Rik. Still struggeling but i don't show it in the videos. I don't think it's relevant.
Thanks for the great video. I had cataract surgery so I've spent the day doing virtual machining. I was surprised to find that I wasn't subscribed, so I fixed that. My two cents on this topic follows the same logic and goals as most solid post videos I've watched. Increased rigidity being the goal. Synonymous with rigidity is minimal overhang and a design that helps counteract cutting forces. For this reason I think a third T - Nut + Screw would be beneficially located at the center line rear of the riser block. Let's face it, the two T-Nuts that you have are not ideally located to counteract the downward force of cutting tools. This tends to lift the rear side of the riser block. If you put a dial gauge on rear of the riser block you can probably measure it on a very heavy parting cut.
Wakodahatchee Chris
Thanks C DRIVE. The first goal here was to clear the tail stock. The win in rigidity is just a bonus.
very nice build…enjoyed!
Thank you very much Chuck.
Excellent work, and a great outcome.
Thank you very much Joseph.
Awesome work. It looks good
I'm playing catch up on watching youtube, I haven't really watched anything in weeks
Welcome back Tom.
Great job. Very nice. Great idea for saving space. 😎
Thanks Paul.
Solid work Michel! 👍👍
It is :) Thanks Allen.
Nicely done Michel. I want to do that for my Logan lathe.
Go for it.
Very nice work looks great
Thank you Kimber.
Fabulous to watch and learn. 👏👏👍😀
Thank you Mr Carpathian.
Nice work making use of that stock. I bet the extra ridgity is worth the effort! Definitely on my list!
Just do it Max.
G’day Michel. Great work on the tool post modification mate. That was a big old chunk of steel mate. Cheers Rusti 🍻. Aaron.
PS: I laughed at the start when you were pulling out all that swarf 😂
Thanks Aaron. Lot of chips just for one project :-)
Turned out well for a bit of random stock.👍. Love that shaper..will be a while before my tiny shaper will be making chips. Regards Stuart from NE England.
Thanks Stuart. One day you will.
Brilliant work there!
Thanks Mac Truck.
As I'm sending this message to you, it's currently USA 12am Saturday. You are really good, about (explain) what your plan to actually do first. I personally enjoy 😁and watch what you're doing. Yes, that compound feature, gets in a darn location to use the Lathe
Thank you very much Keith.
Thank you for another enjoyable video. I love how turn scraps into useful items. Keep up the GREAT work!
Thanks Randall. That's the plan.
Nicely done with what was there on hand! I need to make a similar block for my machine once I can start machining again. My buddy Eldon made one for his lathe and it worked wonders for him too.
You have a lot on your plate Everett, the videos and machining will come eventually. Family first.
Go for it!
Wow! Great job Rusty 😀! That looks fantastic! Perhaps you could tap the top of that bolt too to accommodate an indicator mount 😊. In any case, that's gonna work great! Cheers!
Great idea, or maybe to install an ashtray :-)
@@Rustinox the options are endless! 🤣
The lack of seeing the made in Germany clamps was more than compensated by the sight of those beautiful turnups !
Have a good look at 15:40
@@Rustinox How did I miss them, Made in England clamps 2 Made in Germany clamps 0
I bet a parting tool will work more efficiently now also, excellent Job, seriously!
I hope so. Thanks Ken.
It should. He will be parting off 3+ diameter stock easy.
Nice work!
Thanks Chui.
Bravo! Enjoyed watching.
Thanks John.
I love how you used a discarded remanent and made a useful tool out of it
I use what i have. After all, steel is steel :-)
@@Rustinox I sold a small amount, maybe 140 kilo of scrap steel and iron at the local scrap metal yard for $40 US.
The price for scrap is high currently because of the lock down.
good job
Thanks.
Great video. I especially like the part where you mentioned chuck overhang. New after market chucks on smaller lathes are terrible. I have 3 or 4 videos on this subject and to be honest they are my only videos with negative comments. Apparently I'm not very convincing.
Indeed, it makes a big difference. The farther away from the bearing the more the spindel will flex.
@@Rustinox Yes. Also spindle diameter is a big factor. With smaller threaded spindles the threads are actually the weak point. I replaced 2 of my cast plates with steel on my larger chucks with a 1.5" spindle. This resolved the movement at the threads and helped the chatter but did nothing about the spindle flex.
Thanks alot for this video - I have just aquired a new (larger) lathe and faced just the same problems you've been having.
Now I know there is a solution - I'll have to contemplate whether I'm happy with "working around" the issue - with long tool stickouts and the lot - or build a fixed toolpost base like you did.
Well done!
Go for it Adrian. And show us the result.
You did good job . If i was doing this i put 4 bolt or tree but good job
No Need of more bolts. There is no rigidity issue. It's to clear the tail stock.
That came out perfectly Rusty - nice work! Also, I am noticing recently that you are putting more time into video editing, this video flew by with the snappy cuts and interesting shots :-) Thanks!
Thanks Craig. I try to put a bit more rhythm in the videos and make them shorter. It's not easy. I never learned how to make videos or fotos.
@@Rustinox I don't think any of us did 😂 Just learning as we go same as with the machining
nice video,thank you for sharing
Thanks for visiting Ray.
Great job, I think you need bigger "Turn Ups" on your trousers to catch the swarf (chips). Plenty of meat taken off that bone 😉.
Thanks for sharing, and stay safe.
If only you knew how many swarf i bring in to the house with these turn ups.
Or in my pockets :-)
Nicely done, Rusti! You make this viewing fun. Keep on keeping on. Cheers, Dudley
Many thanks Dudley.
That will help tremendously with parting off. Very well done! Thanks for sharing. Be safe stay well. Ciao
Thanks Yves, you too.
Good Job!
Thanks!
As always ; thanks.......Neil
My pleasure.
This is a great channel. I love your projects.
That's nice. Thanks.
I like that you still retain the flexibilty of turning the tool post. Too many of these conversions force you to remain perpendicular. Let's face it, most people hardly turn a taper so the compound (top slide) can go in the drawer. If you want more clamping force holding that fat block to your cross slide, you could always add 2 more bolts to hold it down. Thanks for showing this, I'll put it on my list. Subbed!
Welcome worldtraveler. And thanks for the sub.
Gday, I really like the look of your solid tool post, really turned out well and certainly gained a lot more rigidity, great job, Cheers
Glad you liked it Matty. Thanks.
Great work! You definitely convinced me to build a rigid toolpost for my lathe. Take care!
Go for it!
Just brilliant Rusti. You’ve given me some ideas now.
Perfect! Go for it.
Awesome job!
Thanks for the visit.
What can I say your ingenious. That came out better than expected. I have the same issue with my Logan lathe. This may be a very good solution.
Go for it Bruno.
Nice one Rusty :)
Thanks 👍
The things I notice : The sweet music of a sharp file . You must take much better care of your mill files than I do !
....... and your oil can ! If I remember right, you thought that it may have "given up the ghost"
at one time . Does my memory fail me ?
Indeed, my oilcan was "game over". But i managed to soft solder the parts together, so now it's back on track.
Excellent best tool post! RIGID RIGID!👍🇬🇧.
Glad you like it.
Looks great!
And it works!
@@Rustinox - I’m glad to hear it! I think every lathe with a compound slide suffers from reduced rigidity and bad clearance, so perhaps I might make something like that for my lathe too!
Hi there, new sub here, thanks for sharing your adventures, best wishes from merry old England
Welcome aboard Ralfy.
I've watched some of your videos. Great stuff. Keep them coming!
Thanks buddy and big love to you and yours
The biggest advantage of the quick change tool holder is not that you can change tools quickly, in my opinion. A really big advantage is that you can easily fine-tune the tool height, as well as use different size tools in the same holder. This means that you don't have to be super precise in making the solid tool post, since you can adjust your tools on the QC tool holder very easily.
You're absolutely right. That is indeed a big advantage.
Nice one Michele! You've inspired me yet again. I've got to ask a question though !
The rivet ? Was it actually a repurposed wood fixing ? As in a nail 🤔🤔🤔
Thanks Nell. Indeed, it's a nail.
You are a man after my own heart! You have to love Improvisation 😁
That was a damn fine idea, just the ticket !!
It's not my idea. I just copy from someone else.
I want a drink holder on mine.
Good idea. Go for it.
I'm sorry that I don't have a sticker to stick onto your cheap door. But I sent you a consolation prize at my friend's personal junkyard in the middle of Southeast Alberta Canada. LOL right in the middle. Feel free to insert an image or two of the Badlands
No problem. I'll see what i can do.
I like your lathe, I use a Boxford AUD, what make is your machine out of curiosity
I don't know. All I know is that it's made in Armenia.
Decent video, brother.
I try yo recommend you.
But meh, my local tribe experiences by wifi
Thanks. Lol.
If you use a thinner parting tool it will be quicker and more exciting...they sometimes snap..hahahaha
Sometimes i use 2mm blades. And indeed, i broke a few...
Another triumph.
Thanks. It works very well.
18:20 - ahhhhh yeahhhhh. 😎
Yep, that's where it finally ended.
Why does it take either old men or Zhermans to fully appreciate a properly rigid tool? ;)
This was more to make place for the tail stock.
Vieux tenaille!...................................
Lol. Comme toi, je suppose :-)
@@Rustinox N'est pas!
Michael I have two pieces of stock on hand I can how make around one per your design.
A triangle design like a lot of TH-camrs do the best of two worlds
From Down Under
Well, i'm afraid i don't get it.
One for Metric and one for Imperial !
I see were I went wrong a rectangular one.
Remember I was born upside down .
From down Under
I'd like to clarify to everyone that in Europe Inox means stainless Steel. Rust and Rustless where French, Spanish....
I must delete yhis silly comment.
Inoxidable.