@ Javier Fauxnom I know --- simple 'n' incredibly easy to do, right??? Just like trying to reverse a huge bulky utility-trailer properly into a tight space is super-uncomplicated --- just keep backing up slowly till you hear da crunch, and then you know you've backed up far enough. :P
I mostly work with electronicals so I had never heard of one of those "stepper drill" thingys, went and bought one and it has made my life so much easier when working with metal and particularly plastics. Thanks Uncle!
I been knocking around metal shops etc since 76 but I keep coming back to AvE's channel not just for the tips I somehow never stumbled across until now, but for the new technical terms... like "thumb detector".
The "Times New Roman" on Chinesium is actually what happens when you write the roman alphabet with the standard *Chinese* font called Mincho. Mincho was actually developed in Japan and you do see it on '90s Japanese stuff as well but these days it's the obvious flag of a company that never bothered to design its own logotype for export markets.
Another benefit of step drills is that being single flute, they hold themselves concentric and make a round hole in thin material. They also can't corkscrew themselves into the hole.
The holes have three lobes thanks to our friend Pi. Once it starts a weeble wobbling, it walks around on its diameter across the two flutes. It is almost a deltoid hypocycloid (you can look that one up...)
Well, that's a kind of backwards rationale using associated geometry that fits (pardon the pun). Using the convenience of Pi being approximately 3, would then a 4 fluted bit scribe a 6 sided hole? And a deltoid tracks a hole 1.5 or 3 times the radius, so, since the hole is neither of those relative sizes, and the relative surfaces are actually slipping, why doesn't it form a 4 pointed shape related to an asteroid? The point to note is the 3 lobed hole actually isn't large enough to push the bit shank through - it's a smaller hole, so the shape of the hole may bear more relationship to the "width" of the flutes and the oscillation caused by force than from pure geometry.
@@DiscoFang, I mean, you did use the most opaque jargon. Therefore, by internet standards you are clearly a being of higher intelligence. I bow before your impenetrable language and kneel to hear more of your wisdom. For reference, I'm half impressed and half sarcastic here. I'm a mathematician and I didn't understand half of those terms, which means I need to seriously review my geometry. Well done, sir and/or madam.
@@DiscoFang This problem arises almost entirely because drill bits have 2 flutes plus drilling thin material like sheet metal with almost no support material for the bit. Because a common drill bit it is two-fluted it cannot get exactly equal cutting chip size on the two cutting edges at the same time. Just like a three legged stool will find balance and a two legged stool is no bueno. This is exaggerated when the drill bit pierces through sheet metal, it creates two small tabs that remain in the unfinished hole and the last function of the drill bit is to remove those. The drawback to anything 2 flutes is that one cutting edge will always dig in slightly more than the other until it reaches enough depth to act as a hinge causing the other edge to swing around like on a pivot until it reaches the other side of the hole and digs in to the point where it becomes the “hinge” to repeat. This is not wobble in the chuck, but flex in the bit. Adding support material on both sides of the sheet metal fixes it almost completely. Shorter drill bits and higher RPMs will also reduce this but only having two flutes is the real culprit.
I know this is an old video but I wanted to weigh in on the “weeble wobbles and drilling a 3 lobed hole. In the oil and gas industry we call that “Reverse Whirl. “ You showed a pretty good example of it in your slow motion. Whirl is induced when you don’t have enough weight on the bit. In oil and gas once whirl is induced it tends to propagate through the entire stand unless you pick up and re-engage the formation with enough WOB. I believe the number of lobes in your hole is the number of blades on the bit plus one.
Hey AvE I've been in the USAF (Aircraft Metals Tech) since 96'. We occasionally have to hand drill safety wire holes with a # 55 drill bit in the hex head of fasteners on the aircraft or in the jet shop. The way we do it is by locating the start of the hole with a punch and then drilling perpendicular as if drilling a straight hole but when we have the entire dia. of the drill bit below the the surface we then begin to slowly move the drill in the direction that you want the hole to go while continuing downward pressure. In our case it's towards the closest corner of the bolt head but the same technique works on about anything. Love your channel!
AVE: there is a hidden gem at the Hazard-Fraught, their 115pc “cobalt drill set” is actually 5% cobalt steel, and are pretty darn precisely-made. They’re not Irwin-Hanson but damn close. They sharpen nicely and last as long as a cobalt should
SterTheDer - that amused me as well, but what he actually said is even funnier! at 2:59 - "Measure ONCE, cut TWICE and the firgin' thing is still too short". That's going on my wall!
When I use a step drill, I take a black felt marker and darken the "step" just after the one that is the max size I want to drill. Makes it much easier to tell when to stop.
Bought my first auto center punch the other day. Went back and bought 5 more. Treat em like clamps. Can't ever have too many. Definitely life changing tool! Freaking love your videos dude!
I can hear it now. “Seriously Doc, I was standing in my shop, minding my own business, when I saw the TH-cam video about how to use a monster deming drill bit, with a convoluted Gerry rigged press rig, and that’s how I got injured “ Very creative, and looks like it works. I just carry around a bunch of the Lennox step drills in multiple sizes. I use some just for aluminum and others just for steel. Cheers. 👍🏻
While doing electrical work in a shop that had a dozen old screw machines noticed that they had a lot of left hand drill bits. Set up guy explained that if last operation was turning CCW they would use a left hand drill bit to save a second or two from stopping machine then changing direction. Saved them a nice piece of change while running the same piece 24 hours a day for several days.
I have a construction trade ticket (electrician) and no one every showed me this stuff. Well, I figured out the hole saw trick on my own. I thought I was real clever that day; a first year teaching his newly devised trick to his journeyman. Anyways, this was hugely edifying (mostly for my home projects, but edifying none the less). Thanks!
I've been farting around in the shop for 30 years, so not a ton of new stuff here for me...but holy carp, that hole saw tip around 18:30 ! Just that one tip alone is more than worth the price of admission!
As an apprentice who's drilled all sizes in all positions using hand drills I can say with confidence that the most important thing is using a pilot bit and working your way up through the sizes. Especially when drilling thicker steel you never want to start with a big slugger bit. Also the bigger the bit the slower the rpm's
Copper will grab ya pretty good too. some metals its better to peck drill at higher speeds. I'm pretty sure I'm the only guy who would drill 1inch copper 3/4 with a 1/2 hand drill. Thank you Makita.
An old timer taught me that you can grind the center of your drill bit down (similiar to an end mill) to drill round holes in sheet metal... It cuts a small plug out. Thought it was a handy little trick worth mentioning. Love the videos!!!!
Theres this trick when you drill through a piece of puckered cloth... Nice circular holes in thin sheet metal with regular bits. The cloth starts wrapping around the bit and weirdly enough guides it straight. An old timer taught me this at one of my student jobs - we made switchgear and I needed to drill these holes all the time. I cant remember all the details but I believe with a drill press it worked on 1.5mm sheet of mild steel with a piece of tree carcass under it, hole diameters up to 25mm or so.
Hey on the metal drilling I recently had to drill about 40 holes in mild steel from 11ga to 3/8" thick. Lots of the 3/8" ones too. What helped much was pilot holes, cutting fluid, and having the work lower than I was so I could lean into the drill, and also maybe most important putting a cup of water next to the work. Every few seconds stop drilling and spin the bit in the cup of water. I managed to do the entire job with one 3/4 bit without bluing it or snapping it off because it never got hot. Thanks for the tips.
You'll always want to use a cutting oil to preserve your tool and keep it from overheating and ruining the hardening. Especially when drilling stainless (316+ mainly) since it hardens something awful when heated.
This is just so wrong. If you are drilling a really small hole, say 0.5mm, then using oil will cause the drill to break. Instead, If you really need to cool the drill (wich you really don't) you should Instead use pure alcohol or water as it is not too viscous for the tool.
It's not "just so wrong" because you have outliers. The core statement is that you want to cool and lubricate your drilling tool to preserve it. 0,5mm holes aren't what most people drill and as such it's not the main target of a comment about using cutting oil. Yes, on very small holes you want a less viscous lubricant/coolant, though not pure water as water is worse than oil in small applications/holes.
Thanks a million for showing off that Starret center punch. I am a safe tech so drilling accuracy is kind of important. On your word I spent the money and bought one and I don't regret it one bit!
Reminds me of my first experience with a drill press. I was drilling a hole in a thing that was held by a fairly heavy portable vise. Long story short, drill got stuck and now the vise was spinning and gave my hand a good whack (After 5 or so rotations the drill bit obviously broke off). Fun times.
time for a bigger drill if it breaks off. With the proper size drillbit and a good an sharp piece of metal in there thats when the fun really starts. Blunt objects hitting the aprrentice in the face is no fun, sharp pieces of metal spinning at way to much rpm for the dril thats fun. And then the attempts to turn the damn thing off without getting cut up.
I'm a master electrician and we used to call the Milwaukee corded drill the "wrist breaker" get an 1 3/8" ship auger bit locked up with that thing and you were not using or holding the handle..bad times man. The damn new dewalt 20V cordless drills are just about as powerful these days
So I apply for a job at a machine shop and they call me in for an interview. The manager says, "Where did you learn machining?" I says, "From the keenest machinist on the interwebs." He takes me into the shop to test my knowledge, starts pointing at tools and asking me what they're called. I says, "That's an high-powered thumb detector. That's a set of Chinesium nut huggers. That's a hand held hole plunger, and that big one over there is the chief chooch-o-matic." He says, "Don't call us. We'll call you." I says, "Keep your dick in a vice." He says, "Security!"
Love the Atlas Co Rockhose straps! I have tonz of those things all over - and they always come in handy... have a few in the quad cubby, in the truck, tool box, basement, shed, camper, you name it!
I'm sure watching AvE will provide plenty of inspiration for creative solutions in your situation. As your legal advisor I suggest you don't put those creative solutions into practice.
One quick trick for everyone. Center punches are good at starting drill bits, but they excel at taking out side door windows in a car or truck. Even the cheap bastard ones from Horror Fright will do a good job at blowing out the side glass. If you have ever tried to bust one out to extract a person from a wreck that is on fire or close to it, you already know how hard it is. An automatic punch will take it out on the first try, I now have one in each vehicle I own and most of my friends as well. Just thought I’d pass that along.
I'm so glad that you have this video up,this guy is a true professional here! & I spent hour drilling 4 holes I used black ryobi bits nothing , i used dewalt titananium sent it & she worked but only have China made cobalt coating stepbit and they never gave me a problem, a unused 1 took alil over an hour to get all 4 done!
love it! just like my boss when he first hired me. shows me all the safety squints and their various shades and colors then proceeded to not use them. lol you good ol' boys, is what we call your lot down in freedom world.
Dang, we must have gone to the same drilling school. I already knew all these tricks from 40 years ago when I was a machinist. I mostly visit for the humor; especially these days with the world coming to an end. Keep up the great teaching and entertainment.
Here's a tip: if you have to drill a standard-size hole in thin sheet aluminum, use a punch instead of a drill. The coin produced by the punch is slightly conical, so it fits back in the hole. You can then hammer it flat, plugging the hole if you need to. I have used this trick many times to move holes that were not quite in the right place....
half-a-hole is an interesting conundrum, since a hole is a hole. And any hole is a goal as you would of course know from your escapades with the ladies with the big hands in Thailand.
Found the best drill cases years ago at a large industrial hardware store. Only needed a case for 1/16 to 1/2" but purchase 3 of them along with a # & letter case. Had a few cases from Sears 40 years ago when they were still selling some quality products. Now have a standard set, a 135 degree set for stainless steel along with a standard size coated bit case.
Love those automatic centre punches. Just don't carry one on you when you leave the workshop. In the UK they are very popular with car thieves. The police will charge you for "going equipped"
Regarding your slanted hole in steel: first drill straight where you want the hole to enter. As soon as the hole gets 1/2 diameter deep, slowly slant the drill over to the desired angle. (the "stepping up" scheme can aid this as explained to follow). How to drill large holes in steel with hand-held drill: start small and step up in size. It will take less time & sweat to drill in 3 steps versus all in one. Each size (except the first, which is real small) will have clearance for the chisel point so will take much less pressure.
One time in lever class, I learnified that ole AvE created a First Class Lever. Shoulder=effort, strappythingy=fulcrum and the Duhwalt=resistance. FYI in case there is a pop-quiz at the end.
7 ปีที่แล้ว +104
It works in practice but does it work in theory? LOL
it's tri-lobed because the drill bit catches more on one cutting edge, digging in deeper and acting as a pivot point so the other edge cuts with a wider radius than if it was rotating around the center point of the bit. of course as the second edge rotates around the first edge, it digs deeper and deeper into the edge of the hole, until it's dug in deep enough to pop the first edge free and cause it to pivot around the second edge and so on and so on. since each spot where an edge of the bit digs in deeper has a flatter area opposite it, this naturally favors a triangular shape with a two edged bit.
That's actually one of the few, very common nearing popular phrase of cheap, badly cast metals. That phrase is stated around the entire United States and has been floating around for years. That's not saying anything else this wanker (lovingly called) says is popular or widespread lol.
to quote the bloodhound gang, "And then we'll do it doggy style so we can both watch x-files". Ask your favorite cowgirl nicely, and she'll show you what's for.
@@danhammond8406 Exactly! Just what I did. And if you still think his foul language stays in his shop..... well, who am I to educate a dope like you about the widespread coverage of the internet.
Seriously funny, I love your abuse of language, your channel is the best if you wanna not only chuckle constantly but actually learn something for half a beer or so
I spent 20 years as a millwright/industrial maintenance. I already know most of what you talk about on these videos but I watch them anyway. Something cathartic about it? And the humor is top shelf :)
Brian Hagmeier Did the same type of work (operating engineer LOCAL286) . I retired 4 years ago and enjoy these vijhos and humor also. Your never to old to learn something new.
10:41 "Why would you want lubrication or anything of the sort?" - 1, reduces heat on the bit and makes it, or it's coating, last longer. 2, reduces heat making the bit less likely to work harden and shatter inside the work piece. 3, decreases surface resistance of the bit flutes allowing the chip to flow away from the cut better. 3-A, Moving the chip away from the cutting surface makes the bit less likely to try and chomp through the chip which can cause it to shatter inside the work piece. . Slower cutting speeds and more lubrication are your friends when it comes to doing any time critical machining: because having a bit break off inside the work piece will eat up a whole lot more time to fix than simply cutting slower and taking the time to lubricate. That comes from a pattern maker - you know what our shop hours are like and how cut throat the bidding is to have something done as fast as possible. Cut slower and lubricate and you won't have to waste time fixing your own fuck ups. . When you're drilling new bolt holes deep into the middle of a huge cast steel pattern - when you absolutely do not want to do: is break off a hard chunk of something inside the bastard - because then you'll probably end up going in from the side to dig out what you lost in the hole which will guaranteed be jammed right fuckered in there - then you have to manually arch weld up the giant troth you just cut in the pattern and hammer out the voids and weld some more, and hammer some more and weld some more and reshape the inside via polishing to get the pattern back to spec. You just lost the better part of a days work - you want those curly qs coming out nice and steady in long strands. . If you're just fabricating something at home - go for it and who cares, there's always time to do it right the second time: but not on the clock when shop rate is $70 an hour, 5 hours spent fixing your own fuck up literally blows your profit and now costs you money.
Senciearly I was watching the video to learn about tools. Now I am sitting with my notepad and taking notes to demystify deep engrained vocabulary sooo foreign yet enchanted expressions. After 36 years of suffering through learning English, clearly, I can see where I went wrong. Were were you all my life brother?
I had a broken bolt in an exhaust manifold last winter. I didn't have access to take the whole manifold off to drill it out. So I just used the hydraulic jack on the back of the drill and it worked out perfect.
Could well be, I just weld the stuff and hardly ever have to drill/machine it... And the boss looked at me weird when I asked to get some alcohol to work with...
Taught an old fabricator a couple.new tricks! Now, a great investment is a Rousch bit set for absolutely perfect holes. For angled holes in metal, I'd drill straight down the thickness of the drill bit with the edge of the hole on the center punchmark away from the direction of the angle. This way, the bottom of the hole has it's edge in line with the centerline of the angle hole, and you can bull it in at your angle, putting you pretty much centered.
I've been watching AvE for a long time through school, now I work in fabrication and assembly building aluminum boat trailers for government contracts essentially drilling hundreds of 1/4-3/4" holes through aluminum and galvanized steel 1/4-1" thick using 3/8 typically to pilot for al and steel. Most people i see use the spray lube on the steel, I spray it into a dipping cup and dip the bit in, seems to cool better and less mess. Also pulse the trigger if you havent piloted and pay attention to the chips, if you only see dust coming off push harder or sharpen! As for the dorito shaped hole, a bad sharpening will make it worse both of the cutting edges should be equal and similar chisel profile.
Andrew Smith x yeah you need to cut on the inside of the bias so that it binds up and sets there jammed in there for fucking two weeks spewing oil none stop.WTF ay?or was it months.
I was a drill press operator for 16 years using a giant Giddings & Lewis Bickford radial arm drill and I figured out the secret sharpening to make an inch and a half drill bit power through a A36 Steel at 105 RPM with a feed of 21 thousands per revolution. I would stack drill three pieces of 1 1/4 A36 in about 2 minutes. The guy on day shift could never figure out how I got so much done in a night. I kept my own tooling locked away and he had his own. I tried using his tooling and the best I could muster out of that was 70 rpm at 13 thousands per Revolution and the pressure was so high that it would actually lift the radial arm.
That tip for holesaws is gold. Fwiw: lube wise I just use window cleaner. One of the system engineers I used to work with swore by it... Does the job and easy to clean up (it evaporates as you drill)
Those left-hand twist drills are for when you're drilling south of the equator.
!
@ Javier Fauxnom I know --- simple 'n' incredibly easy to do, right??? Just like trying to reverse a huge bulky utility-trailer properly into a tight space is super-uncomplicated --- just keep backing up slowly till you hear da crunch, and then you know you've backed up far enough. :P
Equator? Ha! Earth is flat no equator.
Buy a set for your favorite apprentice
I thought they'd be for Ned Flanders?
Dewalt service tech: "wow, another worn-out thrust bearing! you must have really strong arms!" Ave:"eyah... heh... strong arms."
😅😂🤣
😎Yes, yes i do.
Canadian Beavis and Butthead
I mostly work with electronicals so I had never heard of one of those "stepper drill" thingys, went and bought one and it has made my life so much easier when working with metal and particularly plastics. Thanks Uncle!
Robert Marchini is $
I been knocking around metal shops etc since 76 but I keep coming back to AvE's channel not just for the tips I somehow never stumbled across until now, but for the new technical terms... like "thumb detector".
"Lubrication is optional for the small stuff" - my girlfriend's favorite quote.
🤣🤣🤣
Praying for you that she means your unit might be big, but since she is so small, she doesn't need lube for her own kitchen appliance.
@@overklift she only had one rack on her microwave grill.
If you love it, lube it!
Haha yeah she told me the same thing
The "Times New Roman" on Chinesium is actually what happens when you write the roman alphabet with the standard *Chinese* font called Mincho. Mincho was actually developed in Japan and you do see it on '90s Japanese stuff as well but these days it's the obvious flag of a company that never bothered to design its own logotype for export markets.
Interesting.
Another benefit of step drills is that being single flute, they hold themselves concentric and make a round hole in thin material. They also can't corkscrew themselves into the hole.
Logan Newman beat me to it
Logan Newman the best step drills are double fluted....much finer centering & cutting
bri sail
You do realize that the tri-lobed holes are caused by the bit having two flutes right, it doesn't happen with single flute
I identify as a tri-lobed woman of color. Thanks - Lumpy
Thanks Adam Savage
The holes have three lobes thanks to our friend Pi. Once it starts a weeble wobbling, it walks around on its diameter across the two flutes. It is almost a deltoid hypocycloid (you can look that one up...)
Well, that's a kind of backwards rationale using associated geometry that fits (pardon the pun). Using the convenience of Pi being approximately 3, would then a 4 fluted bit scribe a 6 sided hole? And a deltoid tracks a hole 1.5 or 3 times the radius, so, since the hole is neither of those relative sizes, and the relative surfaces are actually slipping, why doesn't it form a 4 pointed shape related to an asteroid?
The point to note is the 3 lobed hole actually isn't large enough to push the bit shank through - it's a smaller hole, so the shape of the hole may bear more relationship to the "width" of the flutes and the oscillation caused by force than from pure geometry.
@@DiscoFang Great
@@DiscoFang, I mean, you did use the most opaque jargon. Therefore, by internet standards you are clearly a being of higher intelligence. I bow before your impenetrable language and kneel to hear more of your wisdom.
For reference, I'm half impressed and half sarcastic here. I'm a mathematician and I didn't understand half of those terms, which means I need to seriously review my geometry. Well done, sir and/or madam.
@@DiscoFang This problem arises almost entirely because drill bits have 2 flutes plus drilling thin material like sheet metal with almost no support material for the bit. Because a common drill bit it is two-fluted it cannot get exactly equal cutting chip size on the two cutting edges at the same time. Just like a three legged stool will find balance and a two legged stool is no bueno. This is exaggerated when the drill bit pierces through sheet metal, it creates two small tabs that remain in the unfinished hole and the last function of the drill bit is to remove those. The drawback to anything 2 flutes is that one cutting edge will always dig in slightly more than the other until it reaches enough depth to act as a hinge causing the other edge to swing around like on a pivot until it reaches the other side of the hole and digs in to the point where it becomes the “hinge” to repeat. This is not wobble in the chuck, but flex in the bit. Adding support material on both sides of the sheet metal fixes it almost completely. Shorter drill bits and higher RPMs will also reduce this but only having two flutes is the real culprit.
I managed to get a pentalobe hole once.
I know this is an old video but I wanted to weigh in on the “weeble wobbles and drilling a 3 lobed hole. In the oil and gas industry we call that “Reverse Whirl. “ You showed a pretty good example of it in your slow motion. Whirl is induced when you don’t have enough weight on the bit. In oil and gas once whirl is induced it tends to propagate through the entire stand unless you pick up and re-engage the formation with enough WOB. I believe the number of lobes in your hole is the number of blades on the bit plus one.
Thanks for the input and insight, appreciate ya weighing in
"I thoroughly enjoy hard work; I could watch it all day."
Classic
Indeed classic, From Jerome K Jerome’s “Three Men in a Boat”
'Tighten it until you hear the casing crack, loosen off a quarter turn, then, call over the apprentice.' LOL.
Went one step to far on the step drill. Need to undrill hole. Please advise.
+TK TK Use bigger washer.
lol!!!!!
Have you tried turning it off and on again?
TK TK alternatively weld a cupcake into the hole to close it up and redrill
you need to backspin it.
Came for the drilling skills, subscribed for Thai ladies with big hands. XD
Don't we all Matt. Don't we all...
Hey AvE
I've been in the USAF (Aircraft Metals Tech) since 96'. We occasionally have to hand drill safety wire holes with a # 55 drill bit in the hex head of fasteners on the aircraft or in the jet shop.
The way we do it is by locating the start of the hole with a punch and then drilling perpendicular as if drilling a straight hole but when we have the entire dia. of the drill bit below the the surface we then begin to slowly move the drill in the direction that you want the hole to go while continuing downward pressure. In our case it's towards the closest corner of the bolt head but the same technique works on about anything.
Love your channel!
Love to watch that ,mission critical obsolete part and time sensitive!
AVE: there is a hidden gem at the Hazard-Fraught, their 115pc “cobalt drill set” is actually 5% cobalt steel, and are pretty darn precisely-made. They’re not Irwin-Hanson but damn close. They sharpen nicely and last as long as a cobalt should
What you call a thumb detector, I call a convincing iron.
Thanks for the exit hole tip with the round saw, Awesome!
and you certainty don't wont to have to pull out when you are busy drilling
"Measure twice, cut once, and the friggn thing is still to short" XD
That is beautiful
SterTheDer - that amused me as well, but what he actually said is even funnier! at 2:59 - "Measure ONCE, cut TWICE and the firgin' thing is still too short". That's going on my wall!
@@keithmiller5042 LOL!
When I use a step drill, I take a black felt marker and darken the "step" just after the one that is the max size I want to drill. Makes it much easier to tell when to stop.
I use RED (. )l(. )
Elechicken tape
"Works in practice.... but does it work in theory?" Love this guy!
Bought my first auto center punch the other day. Went back and bought 5 more. Treat em like clamps. Can't ever have too many. Definitely life changing tool! Freaking love your videos dude!
I can hear it now. “Seriously Doc, I was standing in my shop, minding my own business, when I saw the TH-cam video about how to use a monster deming drill bit, with a convoluted Gerry rigged press rig, and that’s how I got injured “
Very creative, and looks like it works. I just carry around a bunch of the Lennox step drills in multiple sizes. I use some just for aluminum and others just for steel.
Cheers. 👍🏻
While doing electrical work in a shop that had a dozen old screw machines noticed that they had a lot of left hand drill bits. Set up guy explained that if last operation was turning CCW they would use a left hand drill bit to save a second or two from stopping machine then changing direction. Saved them a nice piece of change while running the same piece 24 hours a day for several days.
Awesome video, great advice. Thank you. Every grade above M10 has cobalt in it. M42 cobalt has at least 8 percent cobalt
I have a construction trade ticket (electrician) and no one every showed me this stuff. Well, I figured out the hole saw trick on my own. I thought I was real clever that day; a first year teaching his newly devised trick to his journeyman. Anyways, this was hugely edifying (mostly for my home projects, but edifying none the less). Thanks!
april fools gag- buy your buddy a reverse drill bit kit, don't mention it
or just swap one drill out of his favourite size!
Heheh, that’s pretty evil,but I love it!🤣
I've been farting around in the shop for 30 years, so not a ton of new stuff here for me...but holy carp, that hole saw tip around 18:30 ! Just that one tip alone is more than worth the price of admission!
Jesus i just rolled over to that time stamp and that idea is priceless!!!!!
Agreed, I’m 3/4 AvE level but it’s the last 1/4 what puts the pencil in my lead
I absotively, posilutely agree !
totally agree, if I knew that 35 years ago I could have halved my profanity count
sp4nrs has
also where do i get voice activated camera focusers?
Undervalued comment of 2017
Lol
Actually I think it's profanity activated 😅
Drop it enough times
You rewire a "clapper" to focus the camera.
"Thumb detector"... from now on that's how I'll be calling all my hammers :-D
@@chuckfarley567 LOL ouch 😅
As an apprentice who's drilled all sizes in all positions using hand drills I can say with confidence that the most important thing is using a pilot bit and working your way up through the sizes. Especially when drilling thicker steel you never want to start with a big slugger bit. Also the bigger the bit the slower the rpm's
What a great thing to not need to figure out on my own
Copper will grab ya pretty good too. some metals its better to peck drill at higher speeds. I'm pretty sure I'm the only guy who would drill 1inch copper 3/4 with a 1/2 hand drill. Thank you Makita.
@@jeffmurphy6471 Well on your way to a channel of your own!
Or just use a friction stir bit
Hadn't seen your channel before, wasn't expecting a video on this topic to be as funny & entertaining as it is informative. Kudos to you sir!
An old timer taught me that you can grind the center of your drill bit down (similiar to an end mill) to drill round holes in sheet metal... It cuts a small plug out. Thought it was a handy little trick worth mentioning. Love the videos!!!!
Lucas Harrell Theyre called brad point drill bits.
Theres this trick when you drill through a piece of puckered cloth... Nice circular holes in thin sheet metal with regular bits. The cloth starts wrapping around the bit and weirdly enough guides it straight. An old timer taught me this at one of my student jobs - we made switchgear and I needed to drill these holes all the time. I cant remember all the details but I believe with a drill press it worked on 1.5mm sheet of mild steel with a piece of tree carcass under it, hole diameters up to 25mm or so.
Imrich Andráš you mustn't have watched the video through, he showed that trick and its limitations in here
Hey on the metal drilling I recently had to drill about 40 holes in mild steel from 11ga to 3/8" thick. Lots of the 3/8" ones too. What helped much was pilot holes, cutting fluid, and having the work lower than I was so I could lean into the drill, and also maybe most important putting a cup of water next to the work. Every few seconds stop drilling and spin the bit in the cup of water. I managed to do the entire job with one 3/4 bit without bluing it or snapping it off because it never got hot. Thanks for the tips.
step drills are curiously satisfying to use, and the intrinsic de-burring is so nice!
You'll always want to use a cutting oil to preserve your tool and keep it from overheating and ruining the hardening. Especially when drilling stainless (316+ mainly) since it hardens something awful when heated.
Those last 7 words really hit home for me 😔
This is just so wrong. If you are drilling a really small hole, say 0.5mm, then using oil will cause the drill to break. Instead, If you really need to cool the drill (wich you really don't) you should Instead use pure alcohol or water as it is not too viscous for the tool.
It's not "just so wrong" because you have outliers. The core statement is that you want to cool and lubricate your drilling tool to preserve it.
0,5mm holes aren't what most people drill and as such it's not the main target of a comment about using cutting oil.
Yes, on very small holes you want a less viscous lubricant/coolant, though not pure water as water is worse than oil in small applications/holes.
Thanks a million for showing off that Starret center punch. I am a safe tech so drilling accuracy is kind of important. On your word I spent the money and bought one and I don't regret it one bit!
c'mon, you left out the Helicopter, that extra fun time when your bit gets stuck and the drill starts sinning around!
14:28
Reminds me of my first experience with a drill press. I was drilling a hole in a thing that was held by a fairly heavy portable vise. Long story short, drill got stuck and now the vise was spinning and gave my hand a good whack (After 5 or so rotations the drill bit obviously broke off). Fun times.
time for a bigger drill if it breaks off. With the proper size drillbit and a good an sharp piece of metal in there thats when the fun really starts. Blunt objects hitting the aprrentice in the face is no fun, sharp pieces of metal spinning at way to much rpm for the dril thats fun. And then the attempts to turn the damn thing off without getting cut up.
I'm a master electrician and we used to call the Milwaukee corded drill the "wrist breaker" get an 1 3/8" ship auger bit locked up with that thing and you were not using or holding the handle..bad times man. The damn new dewalt 20V cordless drills are just about as powerful these days
bob rosco
So I apply for a job at a machine shop and they call me in for an interview. The manager says, "Where did you learn machining?"
I says, "From the keenest machinist on the interwebs." He takes me into the shop to test my knowledge, starts pointing at tools and asking me what they're called. I says, "That's an high-powered thumb detector. That's a set of Chinesium nut huggers. That's a hand held hole plunger, and that big one over there is the chief chooch-o-matic."
He says, "Don't call us. We'll call you."
I says, "Keep your dick in a vice."
He says, "Security!"
1:02 "Don't use your hand...if you don't have to!" Sage advice, AvE!
there are at least 20 of those blue presto drill bit holders in every uk workshop, its regulation
still no 3.5s tho
Love the Atlas Co Rockhose straps! I have tonz of those things all over - and they always come in handy... have a few in the quad cubby, in the truck, tool box, basement, shed, camper, you name it!
I'm watching this while my wife is in labor
Tyler Coates
Is this going to influence the baby's name ?😀
good luck
Tyler Coates - "Release The Shmoo"!
Congrats! Hope all goes or went well for mom and the baby!
I'm sure watching AvE will provide plenty of inspiration for creative solutions in your situation.
As your legal advisor I suggest you don't put those creative solutions into practice.
Molybdenum would be a nice skookum girl's name.
Moly be damned isn't it? I'm sure there was a Western movie out in the 70s about this.
"Thai ladies with the big hands." remarkable grip on the canadian language
One quick trick for everyone. Center punches are good at starting drill bits, but they excel at taking out side door windows in a car or truck. Even the cheap bastard ones from Horror Fright will do a good job at blowing out the side glass. If you have ever tried to bust one out to extract a person from a wreck that is on fire or close to it, you already know how hard it is. An automatic punch will take it out on the first try, I now have one in each vehicle I own and most of my friends as well. Just thought I’d pass that along.
@jubjub247 Why would you be getting searched in the first place...?
@@thetraveller869 if you have never been searched 'randomly', for no real reason, consider yourself lucky as well as privileged
@@rkoep If a cop wants to search me he/she will need a reason. Without one I'll be getting arrested because I will not consent and I WILL resist.
@@thetraveller869 In Britain?? because you are black...!!!
Can search me as much as they want as long as they frisk me plenty.
I'm so glad that you have this video up,this guy is a true professional here! & I spent hour drilling 4 holes I used black ryobi bits nothing , i used dewalt titananium sent it & she worked but only have China made cobalt coating stepbit and they never gave me a problem, a unused 1 took alil over an hour to get all 4 done!
After viewing this video, my whole life of not drilling properly flashed before my eyes. Thank you so much Ave !
"Because this always gets chowdered up and your hooped if you don't have a pilot" CLASSIC !!
love it! just like my boss when he first hired me. shows me all the safety squints and their various shades and colors then proceeded to not use them. lol you good ol' boys, is what we call your lot down in freedom world.
"I thoroughly enjoy hard work.....i could watch it all day!" Bwaaahaahahaaahaa! That is my new Mantra....too funny ..great videos
That's been my philosophy since I was an apprentice 52 years ago!
Dang, we must have gone to the same drilling school. I already knew all these tricks from 40 years ago when I was a machinist. I mostly visit for the humor; especially these days with the world coming to an end. Keep up the great teaching and entertainment.
Here's a tip: if you have to drill a standard-size hole in thin sheet aluminum, use a punch instead of a drill. The coin produced by the punch is slightly conical, so it fits back in the hole. You can then hammer it flat, plugging the hole if you need to. I have used this trick many times to move holes that were not quite in the right place....
I'd like to apply for the apprenticeship, at the AvE shop.
you have to survive the initiation first, have fun hiking to canadialand
$100 for Thai ladies? Holy crap, what did you do, buy the entire village?
"Big hands" kicks up the price.
You get real ladies !
Aftermarket "clamps"
For a week.
Just the ones with low miles and no flatspots
half-a-hole is an interesting conundrum, since a hole is a hole. And any hole is a goal as you would of course know from your escapades with the ladies with the big hands in Thailand.
Any hole is a hole unless it's mine. Lol
It's the aftermarket "clamps"
Found the best drill cases years ago at a large industrial hardware store. Only needed a case for 1/16 to 1/2" but purchase 3 of them along with a # & letter case. Had a few cases from Sears 40 years ago when they were still selling some quality products. Now have a standard set, a 135 degree set for stainless steel along with a standard size coated bit case.
Love those automatic centre punches.
Just don't carry one on you when you leave the workshop.
In the UK they are very popular with car thieves.
The police will charge you for "going equipped"
Damn this Snow Mexican is very knowledgeable
Subcribed
I've never heard of a Canadian being called a "Snow Mexican", and that got a pretty good laugh out of me.
Everything is skookum except wearing gloves when drilling. I'd rather lose a piece of skin than a whole finger or hand...
NurchOK Absolutely. In Germany it is prohibited to wear gloves when drilling by BGR 195 §4.1.1
And yes... There is a rule for everything in Germany.
rule against having rules for everything? rule to have rules for everything?? rule for having rules about having rules about everything!?!?!?
NurchOK u
On the delta safety placard from our drill press it says no gloves
Same when using an hand held angle grinder.
You are the coolest manliest man I have never met. I have a total bromance for you. Your wife is a lucky man. Thanks for all the vids!
he Don`t have a wife No woman will have him but he does have a bunch sheep, and a pair of high boots
Regarding your slanted hole in steel: first drill straight where you want the hole to enter. As soon as the hole gets 1/2 diameter deep, slowly slant the drill over to the desired angle. (the "stepping up" scheme can aid this as explained to follow). How to drill large holes in steel with hand-held drill: start small and step up in size. It will take less time & sweat to drill in 3 steps versus all in one. Each size (except the first, which is real small) will have clearance for the chisel point so will take much less pressure.
If there is a "W" used for tungsten, it is based on the German name for it, "Wolfram".
We all knew that - that's precisely what makes it so misaligned and therefore curiously noteworthy.
Volfram
@@jacknickolstine3355 Folfram?
One time in lever class, I learnified that ole AvE created a First Class Lever. Shoulder=effort, strappythingy=fulcrum and the Duhwalt=resistance. FYI in case there is a pop-quiz at the end.
It works in practice but does it work in theory? LOL
I hate that my mentor never heard that. Funny as hell
Theory is good, practice is better.
In theory, theory is the same as practice.
In practice, they're not.
it's tri-lobed because the drill bit catches more on one cutting edge, digging in deeper and acting as a pivot point so the other edge cuts with a wider radius than if it was rotating around the center point of the bit. of course as the second edge rotates around the first edge, it digs deeper and deeper into the edge of the hole, until it's dug in deep enough to pop the first edge free and cause it to pivot around the second edge and so on and so on. since each spot where an edge of the bit digs in deeper has a flatter area opposite it, this naturally favors a triangular shape with a two edged bit.
It's nice when someone see the physics involved. Cuts way down on those little mysteries that plague folks.
You put it better than I was about to :)
Maltfalc would a three fluted drill cut smoothly?
Maltfalc you mean it wankeled?
TLDR: It weeble-wobbles in the hole.
That half hole trick just saved my day. Came at the very right time. Thank you!
Ur own terms kill me! "Chinesium" I'm using that for life!
That's actually one of the few, very common nearing popular phrase of cheap, badly cast metals.
That phrase is stated around the entire United States and has been floating around for years.
That's not saying anything else this wanker (lovingly called) says is popular or widespread lol.
lmfao the other one, so ya both can watch the hockey game
reverse cowgirl
to quote the bloodhound gang, "And then we'll do it doggy style so we can both watch x-files". Ask your favorite cowgirl nicely, and she'll show you what's for.
Doggie style
Your friggen terminology is incredible
That rig with the pipe and belt. The last time I saw a gizmo that shaky Wiy E Cyote was riding it off a cliff. LOL
12:23 the lowest quality high speed cam I've ever seen. 🤣🤣🤣 Made my day. Love the vid. You got my thumb 👍
Man, I almost forgot how informative old AvE was compared to AvE of the last year and a half.
I think this guy might be Wilson from "Tool Time" Hi d ho neighbor!
My God, you're right.
Interesting
Wilson didn't have a potty mouth like this jerk!
Glad there's lots of good stuff on YT without the foul language.
@@woodchuck1946 if you dont like the language he uses in his own shop, your welcome to leave.
@@danhammond8406 Exactly! Just what I did.
And if you still think his foul language stays in his shop..... well, who am I to educate a dope like you about the widespread coverage of the internet.
I haven’t been this excited over finding a channel since discovering those late night “Hot Zone” flicks.... ahh... good ol’ hardcore porn.
This is the most watched video of two hands talking to each other
Long live Viral Videos
Welcome straight up non-BS closeups
Such an awesome video! I’m no stranger to the drilling and sweating routine, and definitely picked up some knowledge!
Seriously funny, I love your abuse of language, your channel is the best if you wanna not only chuckle constantly but actually learn something for half a beer or so
Tungsten's symbol is W because it was originally called wolfram because it devoured other metals like a wolf.
Oxygen.
Thanks for the lessen! Lessen the struggle.
Indeed! So many useful drilling tips.
9:43 "Works in practice but does it work in theory?"
I spent 20 years as a millwright/industrial maintenance. I already know most of what you talk about on these videos but I watch them anyway. Something cathartic about it? And the humor is top shelf :)
Brian Hagmeier Did the same type of work (operating engineer LOCAL286) . I retired 4 years ago and enjoy these vijhos and humor also. Your never to old to learn something new.
10:41 "Why would you want lubrication or anything of the sort?" -
1, reduces heat on the bit and makes it, or it's coating, last longer.
2, reduces heat making the bit less likely to work harden and shatter inside the work piece.
3, decreases surface resistance of the bit flutes allowing the chip to flow away from the cut better.
3-A, Moving the chip away from the cutting surface makes the bit less likely to try and chomp through the chip which can cause it to shatter inside the work piece.
.
Slower cutting speeds and more lubrication are your friends when it comes to doing any time critical machining: because having a bit break off inside the work piece will eat up a whole lot more time to fix than simply cutting slower and taking the time to lubricate. That comes from a pattern maker - you know what our shop hours are like and how cut throat the bidding is to have something done as fast as possible. Cut slower and lubricate and you won't have to waste time fixing your own fuck ups.
.
When you're drilling new bolt holes deep into the middle of a huge cast steel pattern - when you absolutely do not want to do: is break off a hard chunk of something inside the bastard - because then you'll probably end up going in from the side to dig out what you lost in the hole which will guaranteed be jammed right fuckered in there - then you have to manually arch weld up the giant troth you just cut in the pattern and hammer out the voids and weld some more, and hammer some more and weld some more and reshape the inside via polishing to get the pattern back to spec. You just lost the better part of a days work - you want those curly qs coming out nice and steady in long strands.
.
If you're just fabricating something at home - go for it and who cares, there's always time to do it right the second time: but not on the clock when shop rate is $70 an hour, 5 hours spent fixing your own fuck up literally blows your profit and now costs you money.
"Measure twice cut once" I think it's usually more like "measure once cut once and fire up the welder"
"thumb detector"
LMAO... I like you
For drilling real big holes , I usually whip out my big 12"
(Drill press- what where you thinking?)
Lmao
Nah, record!
Senciearly I was watching the video to learn about tools. Now I am sitting with my notepad and taking notes to demystify deep engrained vocabulary sooo foreign yet enchanted expressions. After 36 years of suffering through learning English, clearly, I can see where I went wrong.
Were were you all my life brother?
I had a broken bolt in an exhaust manifold last winter. I didn't have access to take the whole manifold off to drill it out. So I just used the hydraulic jack on the back of the drill and it worked out perfect.
when drilling aluminium give it a squirt of ethanol, it stops the aluminium from "welding" it self to the drill
Why waste good vodka when you can use Americas favorite libation, Wd40?
denatural alcohol will do, and unlike wd40 it doesn't smell or leave an oily mess, and to me ethanol seems to work much better than wd40
Could well be, I just weld the stuff and hardly ever have to drill/machine it... And the boss looked at me weird when I asked to get some alcohol to work with...
Wd-40 isnt good to use. You might think it is but youre really better off just doing it dry. Alcohol does make a good lubricant though.
We use Kerosene at work to lubricate Aluminium, it has a little oil in it.
Don't care if the fucking hole isn't perfect as long as the fucking bolt goes through it.
Billy Cook that's a sex joke ready to be delivered right there
Tom Lipton gave you a tip? Wow! Most he gives the full shaft to
??? LOL
Taught an old fabricator a couple.new tricks!
Now, a great investment is a Rousch bit set for absolutely perfect holes.
For angled holes in metal, I'd drill straight down the thickness of the drill bit with the edge of the hole on the center punchmark away from the direction of the angle. This way, the bottom of the hole has it's edge in line with the centerline of the angle hole, and you can bull it in at your angle, putting you pretty much centered.
I've been watching AvE for a long time through school, now I work in fabrication and assembly building aluminum boat trailers for government contracts essentially drilling hundreds of 1/4-3/4" holes through aluminum and galvanized steel 1/4-1" thick using 3/8 typically to pilot for al and steel. Most people i see use the spray lube on the steel, I spray it into a dipping cup and dip the bit in, seems to cool better and less mess. Also pulse the trigger if you havent piloted and pay attention to the chips, if you only see dust coming off push harder or sharpen! As for the dorito shaped hole, a bad sharpening will make it worse both of the cutting edges should be equal and similar chisel profile.
This is my new favorite channel this guy is awesome
The Red Green Show + Trailer Park Boys = AvE
so what about off shore drilling?
Only on the North Slope. Anwar style.
Andrew Smith do the same thing on a boat
Andrew Smith x yeah you need to cut on the inside of the bias so that it binds up and sets there jammed in there for fucking two weeks spewing oil none stop.WTF ay?or was it months.
Andrew Smith have to allow for wave peaks and troughs......
Yeah, most gals respond well to a sea cruise, if that's what ya meant... ;-)
35 year plumber and a knife maker here .this man is spot on , or skookum ! lol.and a great teacher . my kinda fella !
I was a drill press operator for 16 years using a giant Giddings & Lewis Bickford radial arm drill and I figured out the secret sharpening to make an inch and a half drill bit power through a A36 Steel at 105 RPM with a feed of 21 thousands per revolution. I would stack drill three pieces of 1 1/4 A36 in about 2 minutes. The guy on day shift could never figure out how I got so much done in a night. I kept my own tooling locked away and he had his own. I tried using his tooling and the best I could muster out of that was 70 rpm at 13 thousands per Revolution and the pressure was so high that it would actually lift the radial arm.
tungsten was originally Wolfram hence the W , but you knew that
V
No gloves with spinning equipment! Goddess gracious! 😂
skin rips off, gloves get caught and crush your hands ;)
I love the absolute kitten piss out of these videos. If you film it, they will watch. Skip to my chooch my darlin!
"Works in practice, but does it work in theory?" Brilliant!
That tip for holesaws is gold.
Fwiw: lube wise I just use window cleaner. One of the system engineers I used to work with swore by it... Does the job and easy to clean up (it evaporates as you drill)