I had this issue 2 years ago, I followed a video then to bypass the relay and jus like you explained it eventually drained my battery. I have now been chasing a parasitic drain and it is definitely this. Thank you! You are a master mechanic, your entire process was amazing
Yes if you ground that relay permanently it will be energized all the time and the relay will draw around 100mA. Depending on weather conditions and battery capacity I'd estimate 4 to 6 days in summer and 3 to 4 days in winter.
Worked great on my 07 Accord. I had the other temp fix for it where i shorted the 1 and 3 pin but it caused a parasitic drain on the battery which would die if I didnt use the car for 2 or 3 days. I did get a new and bigger battery but this will definitely help and give me peace of mind. Thank you for a great video!
I did notice 1 slight issue with this fix, besides the child window lock not working which doesnt bother me. Before this fix, I could use my key fob to open all my windows remotely while walking to my car on a hot day. Now only the driver side window opens with the fob. Still not a big deal, I'd rather that than the slow battery drain. Thx again!
Wonderful video! Great explanation and a lot of wisdom here. Would have love to find this before I burned the passenger rele haha but I fixed the problem with a bridge in the master switch. A wire was burnt probably because of wet
living in the Yukon it was mostly the wire harness between the door and master switch the wire'[s broken due to severely cold weather , you saved the day sir , Hello from Alberta Canada
I would do this on my own car. It can always be fixed correctly, just plug in the new switch and remove the relay to restore the child lockout feature for a mere $500.00...
Yes I can't believe how common this issue is on a number of Honda models. Glad it helped you. Some have reported finding the switch at cheap price but certainly not in Canada eh.
Dear Phil, I am a fellow mechanic. I had this problem with my accord. My mechanic couldn't figure it out. Your video is great, except for a few things. Most importantly, you should have given some pictures of the part you wired. You went over it for about half a second. Less importantly, you should have shown how you 'tee'd the wires. Otherwise, great video. When I grounded the green and blue cable with the test light like you did, the windows started working.
Thanks for the comments. I sometimes forget the details and assume people understand a basic relay and have basic electrical skills. I'll try to be clearer in the future.
@@PhillipBailey I was able to figure this out pretty easily, but a visual aide can be very helpful. My diagnostic process was also slightly different than yours. I measured the power at the control pins of my P/W relay with a multimeter. I had no power on the pins. I did not have a relay jumper, but I tested the relay to be good by using a swap test. When I grounded the green/white wire with my test light, I heard the relay clicking. At that point, all the windows worked. Your solution is pretty smart. You're providing a ground to energize the relay, but only when the ignition is on. After looking at the schematics, I understood how simple this job is.
@@PhillipBaileyI’d like to know what wires (the white ones) and the small reply you placed at the switch? I’d like to do this fix, but I don’t which parts to buy.
@clarissamadrigal9959 any standard 4 pin relay will work. Most relays are labeled with the common numbers 85, 86, 30 and 87. All connections at the switch are teed into the wires.
PHILLIP, you are awesome brother in what you do thanks for sharing ur thought how to fix this in simple way for sure you saved this customer some money great job and thanks for sharing.
dont know if you guys gives a damn but if you are bored like me during the covid times then you can stream pretty much all of the latest series on instaflixxer. I've been streaming with my girlfriend for the last months =)
FYI: It may not be the actual push button switch but rather the control circuit from that switch. The symptoms on my Accord exactly the same. I took the actual switch apart and it was just fine. So in my case it was the control circuit. good video
Amazing video! Just fixed my accord but the window lock/child lock for the three windows still works. I checked my wiring 3 times to make sure everything is the exact same as yours. Im stoked, i just hope a parasitic draw isnt happening.
Going to try to finally tackle this problem I have been having with my 2005 Accord V6 once and for all. The car has been sitting in my driveway for 2 years and initially I was starting it up and moving it around during the hot months of last summer until one day this exact problem came to bite me and it rained all in my interior and screwed my back floor and brought mold into the car. I have been taping my windows shut for 2 years now. Praying it's as simple as the fuses not working. I'm going to try them with the bulb tester and inform you on how this works.
Dude you're a bad ass.. i was dealing with the same issue on one. I pulled an old relay out of an old parts car i had, wired it up, and it works flawlessly.. thanks
Thank you for the video my honda was close to the same but a little different mine was the relay but your video helped a lot. the difference was i had ground on 24,25 and 26 you had nothing
@@PhillipBailey That’s crazy because I did it exactly how you did it. I was also having the exact same issues as you were we’re only my driver side window would open and the passengers wouldn’t but I could hear the clicking. Once I did this mod using your diagram now they’re working. I was talking about the Child window lock.
Apparently there are different versions of the master switch. Some contain the remote electronics I believe. Does your keyless entry work if you have that?
Thanks for the time and effort into making this video, I have this issue on my '07 Accord and will attempt this fix. I'm not that familiar with electronics so forgive what might seem like obvious questions. When you say to "tee into the wires" do you mean to cut the insulation, wrap the wire around and cover with electrical tape, what size spade connectors did you use to attach to the relay, and is there a specific wire gauge to use for the connections?
Yes you are correct to T into the wire strip a section of insulation off the wire, wrap the wire around, solder and seal with tape. There's very little current so 16 or 18 gage wire is adequate. Terminals to fit the relay are usually 1/4" female spade red in color. Good luck and let me know how it works for you.
great video even years later. Any idea what actually causes this GND issue? Wondering if you ever opened one and replaced the part on the board causing the issue. Thankfully these seem to be a lot cheaper now a days but opening one up to fix without a bypasss would be great.
Five hundred what? Oh, buddy. Time to hit the junk yard. My favorites herein Ohio are U Pull and pay and LMK. Super well organized, computer tells you where the car with the parts you seek is located, how many days it's been there, and a picture. It's just wonderful and no God dang $500 of any country's dollars!
This guy knows his shit! I almost fell asleep too many numbers and wires. I had no idea how complicated my honda could be! Where's my dad? He'll fix it for me. This definitely isn't a job for a girl.
I have a question, right now my driver side window works fine but the passenger window and back two windows do not roll down or go up, but when I try to roll them down from the driver side control I can hear a click sound
If you watched the video you likely have tge same problem as this car. Likely a failed master switch but you need to do some tests to confirm it's not a broken wire between the driver door and A pillar.
Just wanted to let you know that. The drawing at the end doesn't match The relay you had on the door switch.. The jumper wire is in the wrong place. And the drawing it is on the other wire
Man your the man good stuff having the same problem with mines I just bought it like that but trying to figure it all out until I seen your video but also my driverside window don't work either I was told that some guy was putting a car alarm in it and he said that the guy burnt something out and now the window don't work
@11:23 look at jumper wire .. jumper wire goes from the inside pin from the bottom to the black ⚫️ ground .... on the drawing it's on the other pin so which one is correct!?
Hi Phillip. I got the windows back up by using a wire as a relay jumper on the relay by the kick panel. Now wondering where to find the wire and relay to fix the problem like you show in this video. Could you possibly suggest where to find the wires and relay. Thanks again. Really appreciate the help.
This happened to my SE also. Is this just a design flaw? Seems like this and front passenger side cv axel should be recalled and fixed as common issues from Honda. I've had two 07 accords and both has same axle issues just fail while on the road
¿Al conectar el nuevo relevador es necesario desconectar el relevador que va en la luz de prueba? ¿O todo queda normal y solo agregas el nuevo relevador? Agradezco tu respuesta, excelente video
Phillip thank you for the help. I did the wire bridge connecting 1 and 3 and that helped bring the windows down. The minute I did that my alarm stopped locking the doors the minute I took the bridge off my alarm worked. Any idea what could it be?
Did you use the relay or did you just connect a jumper to pins 1 and 3. If you just put a jumper it will energize the lockout relay and cause a parasitic draw. Is the alarm system factory or aftermarket?
Have a 05 v6 Accord with rear right window not moving at all and it seems to be sinking each month. I pressed the switch and there's no clicking sound. The master switch is working cause it lights up when the car is running. But the individual switch for that window doesn't light up. I'm guessing that's not getting power somehow. I've checked the fuse and it's not blown. What might be the issue??
This video is not your problem if it only is affecting the right rear window. I'd check the wiring in between the rr door and pillar for broken wires. If the window is gradually dropping it may have a broken regulator.
That's a great video. I'm trying to sort out an electrical issue basically same car, ignition on all window work. Ignition off. In theory 4 should stop working. The issue is 3 windows stop but one is constantly live draining the battery. Im very welcome to suggestions. Thsnk you in advance
@@PhillipBailey the passenger one. But its a RHD version. Just the 1 window (continuous live behaving as if the key in the ignition all the time). When the keys in all of them work as they should. When its out, i have the passenger front window continuous live keeps draining the battery after a week or two, while all the remaining windows behave correctly meaning they only work when the key is in, and disengage power. Id love to figure out the issue, car gets used maximum 100km in a week at the moment. Every 5 days with a lot of sitting around. Answer to ur question: passenger front, yes works up and down, u can even see the light illuminated at night when the car's locked with the fob🙈
@michalsilezin8898 so the left front door window works with the ignition switch off. What year, make and model. You say it's rhd as well.. give me the year make and model and I'll look at the circuit see if I can figure out anything. Does it have power locks? Do they work properly? I'd check the wiring between the door and pillar. Maybe someone fixed wires in there and switched some wires around. With the key off and condition present pull other fuses one at a time to try to locate the fuse that's actually supplying the power to the switch.
Year 2004, Model Accord 2.2CDTI executive, 5 door saloon version. Has power to the locks, central locking does work Properly and correctly. Will definitely start with checking fuses inside cabin, thank you for your input - it really is appreciated as every night a the moment I am disconnecting the battery clamps off the battery, and when the car is needed again manually unlocking it, popping up the hood to then reconnect the battery to get going as per normal. I wish you were closer. @@PhillipBailey
Would there be an easy and quick solution just to get the windows back up if they are down and this is now happening ? Thank you. Great video. Always amazes me the stuff you can find on here.
Great video and very detailed explanation. I have a few questions. Working on 2007 Accord Ex (same layout as yours) How much of an impact would parasitic draw put on the battery for bypassing the window lock switch? I tried connecting pin 20 and pin 3 to only ground when the ignition is on. But it is working when ignition is off and doesn’t work when ignition is on Now with relay, I tried connecting as you described, but the passenger side switches are active even when ignition or off. So For me the parasitic draw is happening with or without relay.
Sounds like you've got it wired incorrectly. The relay is to be turned on by the ignition feed and then supply the ground to the under dash relay. Recheck the two grounds. If the relay is turned on all the time it will draw around 100mA which would run the battery down in a few days. Depends on battery state of charge and ambient temperature.
@@PhillipBailey but why do you think grounding pin 3 with pin 20 will not work? After all pin 20 gets power when ignition is on and that should ground pin 3. What is the need for relay?
@@rohitv.tangellamudi3735 pin 20 is ignition switched power or positive. You can't connect it directly to pin 3 which is supposed to be a ground brom the master switch. Tee a wire into pin 20 wire and connect thar to pin 85 of any standard 4 pin relay. Connect pin 86 of the relay to pin 1 at the switch by again teeing into the wire. No when you turn on the key the new relay should click. Tee a wire into pin 3 and connect that to 30 on the relay. Connect 87 of the relay to pin 1 at the switch. Tee it in. You can also connect it to pin 86 of the relay so two wires on the same terminal. The way this works is the ignition power on pin 85 and ground on 86 energizes the electromagnetic coil. This causes the contacts in the relay to mechanically connect pin 30 to 87. This supplies the missing ground from the switch to supply the ground to the under dash relay that feeds power for the three door windows to work. All wires are teed into the respective circuits at thevswitch. 12:20 in this video. Hope this is helpful
Thank you for doing this video! This is exactly what my problem is. Will it be fixed if I just buy a switch and change it? I think it would be easier for me to change the switch out than do what you did. If so, Could you do a video on how to change the switch?
Yes most likely is the switch. If you can find one for a reasonable price I'd go for it. Pop the switch assembly out and you should be able to figure it out. Couple connectors to unplug. Don't have the car here anymore. It could also be a broken wire between the driver door and pillar in that rubber flexible boot. I'd visually check that before ordering the switch. Good luck.
Have this issue, 7th gen Accord EX 4dr. I have a theory. The materials used in weatherproofing the windows and creating channels for water to drain down are now getting quite old and warped, and on my year round outdoor-parked car it caused water to pool and drip directly onto the switch(?) in the driver door. I had the habit of opening my window just a crack to get fresh air. It's a great car. Had the VVT assembly changed. The car is going to rust away before the motor and transmission die. I think this is a safety issue, though. Gotta have windows that open
Yes this seems quite common. It was brought to my attention that this has been a topic on quite a few Honda forums. That's one neat thing about posting these videos. You find out just how often these problems arise.
Wanted to add that after jimmying with the childlock button, the windows worked as normal for about an hour before it failed again. Jesus, man. This is crazy shit. 500 Canadian is like 350 USD? How do I find someone willing to do this job for less than like $1000 USD. A dealer service department would probably charge something outrageous and probably fuck it up somehow . I haven't had a good experience with Honda service depts. Mostly the managers. My car is old and they treat me like shit because of that and because I'm young. I just need an honest mechanic to give my business to.
@@PhillipBailey Well thanks for the video. Should I take this to a specialty shop or is this something most good mechanics could pull off. I like saving money on this issue. Ill never need the child lock if that's all I gotta give up. I'll buy something else when I have a kid on the way !
@@Chironex_Fleckeri I would say that any decent tech could do this. The dealer won't because they are worried about liability. Ask around I'm sure there are lots of guys that could do this. It's just a relay and a couple of spliced wires. Alternatively you could search Amazon and Ebay for the switch and install it yourself. As you can see it's not difficult to remove. Buying the part online and installing it yourself will likely be close to what a shop would charge to modify it this way. HTH and good luck.
have you ever run into this problem on a 2001 Honda accord lx sedan been trying to fix it for a month and a half have run out of ways and ideas to fix it it is the exact same problem as on this video and where can you find a fuse jumper/relay tester
No I have not. I took a look at the schematic and it's quite a bit different. The master switch on the driver door locks out the other doors by removing the ground for them. It does not turn on a relay like this 07. There is a relay under the dash but it's turned on by the Passenger Multiplex Control Unit. This relay feeds all four switches so if your driver switch is working then this relay is good. Check fuses 7, 8 and 16 for power with the ignition on. Do the other three windows work from the driver control switch? There is a white/red wire at the master switch on the driver door that is grounded by the lockout switch to enable the other three windows, Check to make sure you don't have a broken wire between the driver door and A pillar. make sure that the white/red is grounded if not supply a ground to it and see if the three windows start working.
Very nice. I have an issue on my 2004 accord sedan. I can't roll my rear driver window up from the master switch, but I can roll up it from up that window switch. I replaced the master window switch and nothing. Where is a common area to find broken wires? Thanks, great video
That sounds like a problem with the left rear window switch. It has two internal relays in it with normally closed contacts. Try switching the left rear with the right rear. I know it does not seem to make sense since it works from that switch but give it a try. Let me know how you fare.
Hey Phillip, Thank you very much for this solution, I'm about to try this in my 2005 accord, however, I was wondering what kind of relay should I use? I was checking in a local store and they sell a relay intended for cars but it needs 7.8 Amps to be activated which I'd burn the fuse of the pin 20. Can you provide the specs of the relay you used? Thanks!
Any standard 4 pin relay will work. I'm sorry but don't have a part number. I have dozens of used ones from various vehicles. Most relays only require 100 to 150 mA of current to activate. Try a salvage yard for one that looks like the relay I used. They will probably just give it to you. Take a picture from the video if you need to. Sounds like tge parts store is selling you a starter solenoid relay.
www.ebay.ca/itm/Relay-4-Pin-20A-12V-CE-Make-Break-On-Off-For-Car-Van-Boat-Bike-Terminal-SPDT-/333747129274?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 Here is an example.
Phillip, enjoyed your video. I was wondering two things: (1) why go though the trouble of installing a relay to connect pins 1 and 3 of the Power Window Master Switch (see 12:54 of your video). The relay will only close when the car is on. Is there a drain on the battery if you use a simple wire to connect pins 1 and 3 when the car is off? (2) This elegant solution bypasses the child safety switch by putting pin 3 to ground and activating the power window relay (which now gives power to the three passenger windows). But does it also solve the problem that the drivers side window switches where not able to turn on any of the passenger windows? Cheers.
The master switch needs to supply a ground to turn on the relay under the dash that supplies power to the passenger switches. The windows all worked fine from the master switch. If you permanently ground the passenger switch relay it will cause a parasitic draw. HTH
@@PhillipBailey I implemented your solution last weekend and it's working well for all the windows on my 08 Accord (but without the child safety button of course). Thank you for the useful video.
This happened to me years ago. Just created a new ground at the switch. Definitly sucked triying to figure it out. windows are on all the time but passes inspection so it will have to do.
I THINK THERE IS ONE MORE SIMPLE SOLUTION IS. YOU NEED A SWITCH BUTTON ON THE JUMBER WIRE IF YOU ARE NOT USING POWER WINDOWS ALL THE TIME . DISCONTINUE THE JUMPER BY SIMPLY SWITCHING OFF WITH BUTTON. AND I HOPE THIS WILL NEVER KILL YOUR BATTERY THATS WILL NEVER KILL YOUR BATTERY
Thank you for this video. I’m dealing with this exact issue. Can you clarify, is all of the wiring done at the level of the door? Also, is it possible to list the steps in a step by step way? Thank you, this will save me a few hundred dollars if I can make it work.
Rewatch the video from 12:10 on. You just need a conventional 4 pin relay. All wires are tee'd into. Strip a small amount of insulation on the three wires at the switch and attach the three wires from the relay. Everything can be done inside the driver door at the switch.
This is the exact problem I'm having with my 2006 Odyssey. Could I also try changing out all the switches from a wrecked Odyssey and swapping it? Or would that switch just blow eventually too?
You could try a used driver door switch. On some that's the keyless entry module so if you have remotes they won't work. I doubt its the individual switches as all of them would have to be bad.
Those numbers on on the pins of most relays. 85 and 86 are the low current control pins connected to the electromagnetic coil in the relay. Pin 30 and 87 are the switched pins that will connect when the control is connected to power and ground.
I had a used relay. Any standard 4 pin relay will work. You will need about 3 feet of 18 gage wire, 4 female spades that fit the relay some solder and tape.
Great video sir. Sir I have a 2012 Accord I removed The front seats because I was working on the AC system I put it back together the passenger side window lock and window worked a day or two later it’s not working I have checked all my fuses I have checked all my plugs that are unplugged and I can’t seem to find anything the passenger side door lock or window will not work from the master control or from its own control was wondering maybe if you have any recommendations I should try? Thank you sir!!
So it's the right front window and door lock that don't work? From the master switch and from the RF switch? If this is the case let me know and I'll look at the circuit.
There is a connector called C107 on the right side under the dash and all the wiring to the right door passes through it. The power windows and locks are separate circuits. Fuse B33 feeds the right power window but there is no separate fuse for the rf lock. Look for that connector on the right side of the glovebox. It may not be seated correctly.
Phillip awesome video man very helpful however I’ve tried this but it doesn’t work I hear the clicking while pushing or pulling the controls for the passenger windows what do you think can be the problem
Check fuses 24 25 and 26 for power after your modification. It they don't have power review your work as you may have wired the relay incorrectly. You could also have a broken wire in between the door and pillar that is controlling the 3 windows lockout relay. This relay is shown at 5:00, 5:42 and 6:15 in the video. Try bypassing the lockout relay.
I’m also not the most familiar with electronics but with your relay bypass what exactly did u do with the wires? I know which ones u used but did you disconnected them from the master control and put them into your bypass and then used another wire to reconnect it to the master control or what
at 12:19 in the video is a schematic. All the wires from the relay are spliced into the appropriate wires at the master switch. The existing wires are still connected to the switch. HTH
Hi phillip, my driver power lock not working after my brother touch the connector below passanger globebox..other 3 door works fine. Can u advice something please
Other than checking that connector you mentioned and for broken wires between the door and A pillar you will need to test the circuits. and actuator in the door.
I replaced the master door switch and that did not work. It was a brand new switch, not cheap aftermarket either. I’m thinking it’s more the harness. But I’ll use your relay bypass if I can get the correct relay.
I didn't buy one but any standard 4 pin relay will work. This additional relay turns on the relay under the dash so yes you have to leave it installed.
I just bought my first car and it has this issue (also a 07 accord) hopefully I can run this by my grandpa who was a car mechanic or my gf dad who is an electrician. Because I only understand the basics of fuses/switches. But I sure as hell can’t read that blueprint lol.
This happened to me 2 days ago. My key fob battery died and I tried unlocking the windows from the outside by inserting my key on my driver door and turning it thrice. I do this sometimes but I have never done it with the driver side partially open. The three windows stopped working as a result. Also, all my inner lights stopped working too. Is the power Window switch somehow connected to my inner lights?
@@PhillipBailey Thanks for your reply. I believe the power Window switch was tampered with by the previous car owner. I traced the fuse for the interior lights and it was blown. I replaced the fuse today and all interior lights and window buttons started working again. Just that a new issue came up. I can't use the central lock if the ignition is not turned on. I decided to replace the battery on the key fob and noticed another issue. The car is no longer responding to the key fob even though the light on the key comes on when you press the buttons. I did some research and it turns out that the car now recognises the power window switch as a new part, meaning I have to re-programme my key fob. I did that with a tutorial I came across on TH-cam and the car responded to the key fob when it is in the ignition but doesn't immediately I take it out. I have programmed it multiple times but it keeps doing the same thing. I am tired and confused.
@@smartsteevy I believe the master switch is the remote keyless entry receiver as well so if it's failed could result in the inability to program the remotes. This car did not have any issues with the remotes. Good luck possibly a new switch is in order here.
Any standard 4 pin relay will work. Most relays follow a standard pin number format. Google how a relay works to learn how it functions. You can go to a salvage yard to get one from a salvage vehicle if you like.
@@PhillipBailey Just wanted to follow up and let you know this worked for my 07 Odyssey! Just finished and all windows work. Lock out button still works too. Your awesome buddy, thank you for the video!! 🍺🍺
I have a 2000 Subaru Impreza sport manual. Tonight all 3 went out at the same time. Would this be similar to my problem? My mom gave me her gremlin I followed her to drop her car off at the shop because she had a no start ( starter and or alternator) we pushed the car and she popped the clutch to start it and we boogied over to drop her car off at the shop. and in the parking lot, the parking lot!!! of the mechanic shop at 7:32 on a Saturday 3 of my 4 windows stopped working. I blame her she brought the gremlin with her into my car 🤣🤣
Sounds like the child lockout switch on the master switch is off. Are you sure you didn't accidentally turn them off. The circuit is not the same at all.
That particular one in the video I purchased in a kit of three off the Snap-on truck. They were bluepoint brand. I don't think they sell them anymore. I have several types. Here is an awesome kit made by Lisle that I use a lot as well: ca.jbtools.com/lisle-69300-master-relay-set-w-leads-switch-fuse-power/ If you just want to bypass a relay try this kit: www.google.com/search?q=relay+switch+kit&client=ms-android-samsung-ss&prmd=sivn&sxsrf=ALiCzsbEGw7I_kbwN_gdgRgmqmb2AQvIaA:1656040588417&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjygIb4j8X4AhUeLFkFHQIrCMoQ_AUoAnoECAIQAg&biw=412&bih=783&dpr=2.63#imgrc=bnUY_-EjxP1SVM They are both great but the Lisle kit can help you test the actual relay in the circuit.
@@PhillipBailey Thank you so much I have a 2006 accord 3.0 coupe that the drive window works. But the passenger window does not I have changed the motor the switch and the fuses. Then I saw your video and my master switch does not activate the relay when using the window lock out switch so wanting to see if this would fix mine. Thanks for the response and the awesome video.
My inside buttons all work great. The Remote hold "all window" and double click "all unlock" function stopped working. Sorry to ask. Can't find any info. Worth a shot here
@@PhillipBailey the battery’s only a few weeks old. Only locks and unlocks the drivers. No window roll down. I do see other things to check now. Relays. Maybe try programming. I suspect maybe is the fob though being 20yrs old.
@kewlbug is it the same year as this Accord? Was there any work done recently like battery disconnected? Sounds like a programming issue. I'm wondering if the feature is customizable. Be nice to try another remote to rule it out.
@@PhillipBailey Here's a piece of info, when I start the engine, it auto locks. but cycles twice it sounds like. I would guess my main issue here is a broken connection somewhere. possibly the door jamb.
This is a very low current circuit, less than 300mA so a very light wire is adequate but too small it will be hard to find crimp terminals. I'd recommend 18awg wire just cause it's easy to work with.
I had this issue 2 years ago, I followed a video then to bypass the relay and jus like you explained it eventually drained my battery. I have now been chasing a parasitic drain and it is definitely this. Thank you! You are a master mechanic, your entire process was amazing
Yes if you ground that relay permanently it will be energized all the time and the relay will draw around 100mA. Depending on weather conditions and battery capacity I'd estimate 4 to 6 days in summer and 3 to 4 days in winter.
Worked great on my 07 Accord. I had the other temp fix for it where i shorted the 1 and 3 pin but it caused a parasitic drain on the battery which would die if I didnt use the car for 2 or 3 days. I did get a new and bigger battery but this will definitely help and give me peace of mind. Thank you for a great video!
I did notice 1 slight issue with this fix, besides the child window lock not working which doesnt bother me. Before this fix, I could use my key fob to open all my windows remotely while walking to my car on a hot day. Now only the driver side window opens with the fob. Still not a big deal, I'd rather that than the slow battery drain. Thx again!
😊😊⁰
Wonderful video! Great explanation and a lot of wisdom here. Would have love to find this before I burned the passenger rele haha but I fixed the problem with a bridge in the master switch. A wire was burnt probably because of wet
Same thing happened to my wife's 07 accord sedan. Added a $6 relay as per your discussion and it works perfectly. Thank you for posting
Glad it helped you out. Now you just need a small stick to smack the kids in the back seat if they won't stop playing with the windows.
So did you just replaced the relay and it worked? Without changing any wires?
Do you have a link to the relay?
@@E67CHopedid you find out what wires and small replay he talks about for the fix?
living in the Yukon it was mostly the wire harness between the door and master switch the wire'[s broken due to severely cold weather , you saved the day sir , Hello from Alberta Canada
I would do this on my own car. It can always be fixed correctly, just plug in the new switch and remove the relay to restore the child lockout feature for a mere $500.00...
It worked perfectly for my son’s 2006 Accord. Great video!! Saved me a lot of money. Thanks for posting it.
@fredmajd2382 what parts the white wires and small reply he talks about? What parts did you use?
Have this exact problem in my 05 accord. Thanks for posting this video, boss.
great video great explanation on how to fix it. was working on a 06 honda accord stumbled across this video and it work for our customers vehicle.
Yes I can't believe how common this issue is on a number of Honda models. Glad it helped you. Some have reported finding the switch at cheap price but certainly not in Canada eh.
@@PhillipBaileyI have this problem on my 05' Honda Accord.
Car only has 53k original miles 🤷♀️
Great videos always comes from great people . Thanks for the information!!!
simplicity. very good solution for an old car, we only replace parts and do not give other simple solutions to the customer. thank you …..
Dear Phil, I am a fellow mechanic.
I had this problem with my accord. My mechanic couldn't figure it out. Your video is great, except for a few things.
Most importantly, you should have given some pictures of the part you wired. You went over it for about half a second. Less importantly, you should have shown how you 'tee'd the wires.
Otherwise, great video. When I grounded the green and blue cable with the test light like you did, the windows started working.
Thanks for the comments. I sometimes forget the details and assume people understand a basic relay and have basic electrical skills. I'll try to be clearer in the future.
@@PhillipBailey I was able to figure this out pretty easily, but a visual aide can be very helpful.
My diagnostic process was also slightly different than yours. I measured the power at the control pins of my P/W relay with a multimeter. I had no power on the pins. I did not have a relay jumper, but I tested the relay to be good by using a swap test.
When I grounded the green/white wire with my test light, I heard the relay clicking. At that point, all the windows worked.
Your solution is pretty smart. You're providing a ground to energize the relay, but only when the ignition is on. After looking at the schematics, I understood how simple this job is.
@@fyodorberkovich8247 hopefully this helped you out.
@@PhillipBailey without this video, I would still be diagnosing
@@fyodorberkovich8247Apparently I'm stupid, I can't figure out how to do mine.
My windows just quit working as of July 3rd 2024. Did exactly what you did and it helped very much appreciated what a lifesaver💪
@doobietwo1 glad it helped you out
@@PhillipBaileyI’d like to know what wires (the white ones) and the small reply you placed at the switch? I’d like to do this fix, but I don’t which parts to buy.
@clarissamadrigal9959 any standard 4 pin relay will work. Most relays are labeled with the common numbers 85, 86, 30 and 87. All connections at the switch are teed into the wires.
@@PhillipBailey thank you. I will try this tomorrow morning 👍🏼
Thank you! Been trying to figure this out for weeks!
PHILLIP, you are awesome brother in what you do thanks for sharing ur thought how to fix this in simple way for sure you saved this customer some money great job and thanks for sharing.
dont know if you guys gives a damn but if you are bored like me during the covid times then you can stream pretty much all of the latest series on instaflixxer. I've been streaming with my girlfriend for the last months =)
@Koda Joaquin Yup, I've been using InstaFlixxer for since november myself :D
FYI: It may not be the actual push button switch but rather the control circuit from that switch. The symptoms on my Accord exactly the same. I took the actual switch apart and it was just fine. So in my case it was the control circuit. good video
control circuit ?
@@shaneeem6114master window control
Amazing video! Just fixed my accord but the window lock/child lock for the three windows still works. I checked my wiring 3 times to make sure everything is the exact same as yours. Im stoked, i just hope a parasitic draw isnt happening.
@@Yonder-q4j interesting...
Going to try to finally tackle this problem I have been having with my 2005 Accord V6 once and for all. The car has been sitting in my driveway for 2 years and initially I was starting it up and moving it around during the hot months of last summer until one day this exact problem came to bite me and it rained all in my interior and screwed my back floor and brought mold into the car. I have been taping my windows shut for 2 years now. Praying it's as simple as the fuses not working. I'm going to try them with the bulb tester and inform you on how this works.
This is the 2nd time this has happened, last time I just replaced the switch. Thanks saving $ this time
The patience you have is unprecedented! If you ever lost interest in being a mechanic, you'd be a great kindergarten teacher :)
That's comforting ☺️
Dude you're a bad ass.. i was dealing with the same issue on one. I pulled an old relay out of an old parts car i had, wired it up, and it works flawlessly.. thanks
Glad it helped you out.
Thank you for the video my honda was close to the same but a little different mine was the relay but your video helped a lot. the difference was i had ground on 24,25 and 26 you had nothing
This just happened to my car yesterday. Drivers side works..clicks on all other windows. Amazing video. Great detail.. thank you
This saved me hundreds of dollars! Thank you so much!!!
Very good knowledge very helpful video fixed my issue Wich was the exact thing, thanks to this video.
Thank you for letting me know what is wrong with my 2006 Ridgeline 🤗
I'm not sure it's the same circuit but may be for sure. Let me know what you do to fix it.
THANK YOU!! This worked for me too and the Child window Lock still works! I really appreciate your video! 💯🤙
That is good but the child lockout feature should not work with this mod.
@@PhillipBailey That’s crazy because I did it exactly how you did it. I was also having the exact same issues as you were we’re only my driver side window would open and the passengers wouldn’t but I could hear the clicking. Once I did this mod using your diagram now they’re working. I was talking about the Child window lock.
I paid only $35 for the master switch. Great video!
Apparently there are different versions of the master switch. Some contain the remote electronics I believe. Does your keyless entry work if you have that?
Great post, great electrician! Really helpful. Thanks for sharing with us.
Also works on Honda Ridgeline.
Glad it helped you.
@@PhillipBailey 🍷
Thanks brother, saved me a few hard earned dollars! 👍
Thank you!!!! This helped me a lot with an emergency
Thanks for the time and effort into making this video, I have this issue on my '07 Accord and will attempt this fix. I'm not that familiar with electronics so forgive what might seem like obvious questions. When you say to "tee into the wires" do you mean to cut the insulation, wrap the wire around and cover with electrical tape, what size spade connectors did you use to attach to the relay, and is there a specific wire gauge to use for the connections?
Yes you are correct to T into the wire strip a section of insulation off the wire, wrap the wire around, solder and seal with tape. There's very little current so 16 or 18 gage wire is adequate. Terminals to fit the relay are usually 1/4" female spade red in color. Good luck and let me know how it works for you.
Thank you it worked on my 2007 Odyssey. I used quick splicers to connect the wires together. (just in case I had to undo it).
great video even years later. Any idea what actually causes this GND issue? Wondering if you ever opened one and replaced the part on the board causing the issue. Thankfully these seem to be a lot cheaper now a days but opening one up to fix without a bypasss would be great.
@all_the_hype no this is the only one I've ever had. Sadly the engine blew up about a year later so they scrapped the car.
Phillip, Thank you very much for this solution , 07 accord
Five hundred what? Oh, buddy. Time to hit the junk yard. My favorites herein Ohio are U Pull and pay and LMK. Super well organized, computer tells you where the car with the parts you seek is located, how many days it's been there, and a picture. It's just wonderful and no God dang $500 of any country's dollars!
Awesome video. Thx. The Honda window switches are only $30 on eBay.
Depends on which switch and options the car has. Yes ive seen some cheap ones.
This guy knows his shit! I almost fell asleep too many numbers and wires. I had no idea how complicated my honda could be! Where's my dad? He'll fix it for me. This definitely isn't a job for a girl.
Don't sell yourself short. There are lots of excellent female technicians out there.
Worked great on 2008 Honda Odyssey. Thank you so much😊👍
Thanks for the update. Glad it worked for you.
Great video.
Very informative.
Common Honda problem
I have a question, right now my driver side window works fine but the passenger window and back two windows do not roll down or go up, but when I try to roll them down from the driver side control I can hear a click sound
If you watched the video you likely have tge same problem as this car. Likely a failed master switch but you need to do some tests to confirm it's not a broken wire between the driver door and A pillar.
Just wanted to let you know that. The drawing at the end doesn't match The relay you had on the door switch.. The jumper wire is in the wrong place. And the drawing it is on the other wire
On eBay a brand new switch is less than $30. Every year make and model is available for the Honda Accord. Great video though.
Man your the man good stuff having the same problem with mines I just bought it like that but trying to figure it all out until I seen your video but also my driverside window don't work either I was told that some guy was putting a car alarm in it and he said that the guy burnt something out and now the window don't work
Great explanation. In my case the auto UP / Down function doesn't work.
Great video! Had the exact same problem with my ‘07 accord hybrid!
❤Love this video my 2008 Honda Odyssey has the same problem. I need to figure how to make the relay🤔
Good luck
@11:23 look at jumper wire .. jumper wire goes from the inside pin from the bottom to the black ⚫️ ground .... on the drawing it's on the other pin so which one is correct!?
Either will work but use the drawing as its clearer
Hi Phillip. I got the windows back up by using a wire as a relay jumper on the relay by the kick panel. Now wondering where to find the wire and relay to fix the problem like you show in this video. Could you possibly suggest where to find the wires and relay. Thanks again. Really appreciate the help.
You can use any 4 pin relay. You have to fabricate the actual wires for it though.
This happened to my SE also. Is this just a design flaw? Seems like this and front passenger side cv axel should be recalled and fixed as common issues from Honda. I've had two 07 accords and both has same axle issues just fail while on the road
¿Al conectar el nuevo relevador es necesario desconectar el relevador que va en la luz de prueba? ¿O todo queda normal y solo agregas el nuevo relevador? Agradezco tu respuesta, excelente video
Just add the new relay. Leave everything else original. Good luck
Thank you so much! This was a life saver!
Glad it helped you.
Do I twist the 2 wires together and put it on pin 30 , there is no damage to put the 2 wires together , it will not create a short or blow the fuse.
This happening to my 2003 accord but the only power window working is the left back window. Wonder if this fix can work for me?
Phillip thank you for the help. I did the wire bridge connecting 1 and 3 and that helped bring the windows down. The minute I did that my alarm stopped locking the doors the minute I took the bridge off my alarm worked. Any idea what could it be?
Did you use the relay or did you just connect a jumper to pins 1 and 3. If you just put a jumper it will energize the lockout relay and cause a parasitic draw. Is the alarm system factory or aftermarket?
Have a 05 v6 Accord with rear right window not moving at all and it seems to be sinking each month. I pressed the switch and there's no clicking sound. The master switch is working cause it lights up when the car is running. But the individual switch for that window doesn't light up. I'm guessing that's not getting power somehow. I've checked the fuse and it's not blown. What might be the issue??
This video is not your problem if it only is affecting the right rear window. I'd check the wiring in between the rr door and pillar for broken wires. If the window is gradually dropping it may have a broken regulator.
That's a great video. I'm trying to sort out an electrical issue basically same car, ignition on all window work. Ignition off. In theory 4 should stop working. The issue is 3 windows stop but one is constantly live draining the battery. Im very welcome to suggestions. Thsnk you in advance
So one of the power windows works with the key off? Which one? Both open and close?
@@PhillipBailey the passenger one. But its a RHD version. Just the 1 window (continuous live behaving as if the key in the ignition all the time). When the keys in all of them work as they should. When its out, i have the passenger front window continuous live keeps draining the battery after a week or two, while all the remaining windows behave correctly meaning they only work when the key is in, and disengage power. Id love to figure out the issue, car gets used maximum 100km in a week at the moment. Every 5 days with a lot of sitting around. Answer to ur question: passenger front, yes works up and down, u can even see the light illuminated at night when the car's locked with the fob🙈
@michalsilezin8898 so the left front door window works with the ignition switch off. What year, make and model. You say it's rhd as well.. give me the year make and model and I'll look at the circuit see if I can figure out anything. Does it have power locks? Do they work properly? I'd check the wiring between the door and pillar. Maybe someone fixed wires in there and switched some wires around. With the key off and condition present pull other fuses one at a time to try to locate the fuse that's actually supplying the power to the switch.
Year 2004, Model Accord 2.2CDTI executive, 5 door saloon version. Has power to the locks, central locking does work Properly and correctly. Will definitely start with checking fuses inside cabin, thank you for your input - it really is appreciated as every night a the moment I am disconnecting the battery clamps off the battery, and when the car is needed again manually unlocking it, popping up the hood to then reconnect the battery to get going as per normal. I wish you were closer. @@PhillipBailey
Did you figure it out?@@michalsilezin8898
Would there be an easy and quick solution just to get the windows back up if they are down and this is now happening ? Thank you. Great video. Always amazes me the stuff you can find on here.
You can temporarily ground the circuit and that will turn on the relay which will allow the three windows to be closed.
@@PhillipBailey Thanks for the quick reply. What would be the best way to do that?
I have honda accord 2006 special edition lx. Front doors windows works but back window not. Should I change only the power switch?
You need to check the fuses, then test the circuits to the switch between the door and pillar.
So i woke up this morning same issue n so is it the switch or the relay?
Awesome. Same exact problem. Scratching my head until I found this video. The doors clicking made me believe the master switch was good
Some people have been able to source the master switch for a decent price but not here. Let me know what you end up doing.
I have to thank you and wish you well sir!
Great video and very detailed explanation.
I have a few questions.
Working on 2007 Accord Ex (same layout as yours)
How much of an impact would parasitic draw put on the battery for bypassing the window lock switch?
I tried connecting pin 20 and pin 3 to only ground when the ignition is on. But it is working when ignition is off and doesn’t work when ignition is on
Now with relay, I tried connecting as you described, but the passenger side switches are active even when ignition or off. So For me the parasitic draw is happening with or without relay.
Sounds like you've got it wired incorrectly. The relay is to be turned on by the ignition feed and then supply the ground to the under dash relay. Recheck the two grounds. If the relay is turned on all the time it will draw around 100mA which would run the battery down in a few days. Depends on battery state of charge and ambient temperature.
@@PhillipBailey but why do you think grounding pin 3 with pin 20 will not work? After all pin 20 gets power when ignition is on and that should ground pin 3. What is the need for relay?
@@rohitv.tangellamudi3735 you can't connect it that way. I'll watch the video again give me a second
@@rohitv.tangellamudi3735 pin 20 is ignition switched power or positive. You can't connect it directly to pin 3 which is supposed to be a ground brom the master switch. Tee a wire into pin 20 wire and connect thar to pin 85 of any standard 4 pin relay. Connect pin 86 of the relay to pin 1 at the switch by again teeing into the wire. No when you turn on the key the new relay should click. Tee a wire into pin 3 and connect that to 30 on the relay. Connect 87 of the relay to pin 1 at the switch. Tee it in. You can also connect it to pin 86 of the relay so two wires on the same terminal. The way this works is the ignition power on pin 85 and ground on 86 energizes the electromagnetic coil. This causes the contacts in the relay to mechanically connect pin 30 to 87. This supplies the missing ground from the switch to supply the ground to the under dash relay that feeds power for the three door windows to work. All wires are teed into the respective circuits at thevswitch. 12:20 in this video. Hope this is helpful
@@PhillipBailey thank you very much for the detail
Thank you for doing this video! This is exactly what my problem is. Will it be fixed if I just buy a switch and change it? I think it would be easier for me to change the switch out than do what you did. If so, Could you do a video on how to change the switch?
Yes most likely is the switch. If you can find one for a reasonable price I'd go for it. Pop the switch assembly out and you should be able to figure it out. Couple connectors to unplug. Don't have the car here anymore. It could also be a broken wire between the driver door and pillar in that rubber flexible boot. I'd visually check that before ordering the switch. Good luck.
Have this issue, 7th gen Accord EX 4dr. I have a theory. The materials used in weatherproofing the windows and creating channels for water to drain down are now getting quite old and warped, and on my year round outdoor-parked car it caused water to pool and drip directly onto the switch(?) in the driver door. I had the habit of opening my window just a crack to get fresh air. It's a great car. Had the VVT assembly changed. The car is going to rust away before the motor and transmission die. I think this is a safety issue, though. Gotta have windows that open
Yes this seems quite common. It was brought to my attention that this has been a topic on quite a few Honda forums. That's one neat thing about posting these videos. You find out just how often these problems arise.
Wanted to add that after jimmying with the childlock button, the windows worked as normal for about an hour before it failed again.
Jesus, man. This is crazy shit. 500 Canadian is like 350 USD? How do I find someone willing to do this job for less than like $1000 USD. A dealer service department would probably charge something outrageous and probably fuck it up somehow . I haven't had a good experience with Honda service depts. Mostly the managers. My car is old and they treat me like shit because of that and because I'm young. I just need an honest mechanic to give my business to.
@@PhillipBailey Well thanks for the video. Should I take this to a specialty shop or is this something most good mechanics could pull off. I like saving money on this issue. Ill never need the child lock if that's all I gotta give up. I'll buy something else when I have a kid on the way !
@@Chironex_Fleckeri I would say that any decent tech could do this. The dealer won't because they are worried about liability. Ask around I'm sure there are lots of guys that could do this. It's just a relay and a couple of spliced wires. Alternatively you could search Amazon and Ebay for the switch and install it yourself. As you can see it's not difficult to remove. Buying the part online and installing it yourself will likely be close to what a shop would charge to modify it this way. HTH and good luck.
Thanks, I Will try this on my moms car👍👍
Let us know how you do.
@@PhillipBailey its fixed now, thanks a lot👍👍
Q: What exactly is the RELAY MODEL/TYPE I need to fix the problem (like this one: AutoZone: Duralast Relay 20742)?
Yes that will work.
have you ever run into this problem on a 2001 Honda accord lx sedan been trying to fix it for a month and a half have run out of ways and ideas to fix it it is the exact same problem as on this video and where can you find a fuse jumper/relay tester
No I have not. I took a look at the schematic and it's quite a bit different. The master switch on the driver door locks out the other doors by removing the ground for them. It does not turn on a relay like this 07. There is a relay under the dash but it's turned on by the Passenger Multiplex Control Unit. This relay feeds all four switches so if your driver switch is working then this relay is good. Check fuses 7, 8 and 16 for power with the ignition on. Do the other three windows work from the driver control switch? There is a white/red wire at the master switch on the driver door that is grounded by the lockout switch to enable the other three windows, Check to make sure you don't have a broken wire between the driver door and A pillar. make sure that the white/red is grounded if not supply a ground to it and see if the three windows start working.
Very nice. I have an issue on my 2004 accord sedan. I can't roll my rear driver window up from the master switch, but I can roll up it from up that window switch. I replaced the master window switch and nothing. Where is a common area to find broken wires? Thanks, great video
That sounds like a problem with the left rear window switch. It has two internal relays in it with normally closed contacts. Try switching the left rear with the right rear. I know it does not seem to make sense since it works from that switch but give it a try. Let me know how you fare.
@@PhillipBailey hello again, I had the idea of doing that after I posted this comment since the plugs are the same for both sides, will report back
Hey Phillip, Thank you very much for this solution, I'm about to try this in my 2005 accord, however, I was wondering what kind of relay should I use? I was checking in a local store and they sell a relay intended for cars but it needs 7.8 Amps to be activated which I'd burn the fuse of the pin 20. Can you provide the specs of the relay you used?
Thanks!
Any standard 4 pin relay will work. I'm sorry but don't have a part number. I have dozens of used ones from various vehicles. Most relays only require 100 to 150 mA of current to activate. Try a salvage yard for one that looks like the relay I used. They will probably just give it to you. Take a picture from the video if you need to. Sounds like tge parts store is selling you a starter solenoid relay.
www.ebay.ca/itm/Relay-4-Pin-20A-12V-CE-Make-Break-On-Off-For-Car-Van-Boat-Bike-Terminal-SPDT-/333747129274?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Here is an example.
@@PhillipBailey awesome! Thanks man. I'll try it this week
@@edgaranaya2956 how did you fare with your window issue?
@@PhillipBailey your awesome Phillip ....he didnt reply but im sure hes all good .
Phillip, enjoyed your video. I was wondering two things: (1) why go though the trouble of installing a relay to connect pins 1 and 3 of the Power Window Master Switch (see 12:54 of your video). The relay will only close when the car is on. Is there a drain on the battery if you use a simple wire to connect pins 1 and 3 when the car is off? (2) This elegant solution bypasses the child safety switch by putting pin 3 to ground and activating the power window relay (which now gives power to the three passenger windows). But does it also solve the problem that the drivers side window switches where not able to turn on any of the passenger windows? Cheers.
The master switch needs to supply a ground to turn on the relay under the dash that supplies power to the passenger switches. The windows all worked fine from the master switch. If you permanently ground the passenger switch relay it will cause a parasitic draw. HTH
@@PhillipBailey I implemented your solution last weekend and it's working well for all the windows on my 08 Accord (but without the child safety button of course). Thank you for the useful video.
i have a 2006 accord where all three work but passenger side doesn’t, does this mean it is the exact same thing or just the fuse?
Check the fuses but it's not likely the same problem if only one widow is not working. Check wires between door and pillar.
That's Amazing thanks so much for doing this.
This happened to me years ago. Just created a new ground at the switch. Definitly sucked triying to figure it out. windows are on all the time but passes inspection so it will have to do.
I THINK THERE IS ONE MORE SIMPLE SOLUTION IS. YOU NEED A SWITCH BUTTON ON THE JUMBER WIRE IF YOU ARE NOT USING POWER WINDOWS ALL THE TIME . DISCONTINUE THE JUMPER BY SIMPLY SWITCHING OFF WITH BUTTON. AND I HOPE THIS WILL NEVER KILL YOUR BATTERY THATS WILL NEVER KILL YOUR BATTERY
Thank you for this video. I’m dealing with this exact issue. Can you clarify, is all of the wiring done at the level of the door? Also, is it possible to list the steps in a step by step way? Thank you, this will save me a few hundred dollars if I can make it work.
Rewatch the video from 12:10 on. You just need a conventional 4 pin relay. All wires are tee'd into. Strip a small amount of insulation on the three wires at the switch and attach the three wires from the relay. Everything can be done inside the driver door at the switch.
@@PhillipBailey thank you very much. Didn’t want to start this repair until I got clarification. Excellent video.
@@PhillipBailey sorry super idiot here. You do that with insulated copper wire correct?
@qmaster2205 yes insulated wire for sure
This is the exact problem I'm having with my 2006 Odyssey. Could I also try changing out all the switches from a wrecked Odyssey and swapping it? Or would that switch just blow eventually too?
You could try a used driver door switch. On some that's the keyless entry module so if you have remotes they won't work. I doubt its the individual switches as all of them would have to be bad.
@@PhillipBailey right understand. We do have remotes. I'm just unsure of how to do this relay install but I'm a decent parts swapper
What’s connection 85, 86, 87 and 30? Do those numbers come from the electrical diagram?
Those numbers on on the pins of most relays. 85 and 86 are the low current control pins connected to the electromagnetic coil in the relay. Pin 30 and 87 are the switched pins that will connect when the control is connected to power and ground.
Thank you!
Where did you get your supplies to do the hookup?
I had a used relay. Any standard 4 pin relay will work. You will need about 3 feet of 18 gage wire, 4 female spades that fit the relay some solder and tape.
Great video sir. Sir I have a 2012 Accord I removed The front seats because I was working on the AC system I put it back together the passenger side window lock and window worked a day or two later it’s not working I have checked all my fuses I have checked all my plugs that are unplugged and I can’t seem to find anything the passenger side door lock or window will not work from the master control or from its own control was wondering maybe if you have any recommendations I should try? Thank you sir!!
So it's the right front window and door lock that don't work? From the master switch and from the RF switch? If this is the case let me know and I'll look at the circuit.
There is a connector called C107 on the right side under the dash and all the wiring to the right door passes through it. The power windows and locks are separate circuits. Fuse B33 feeds the right power window but there is no separate fuse for the rf lock. Look for that connector on the right side of the glovebox. It may not be seated correctly.
Phillip awesome video man very helpful however I’ve tried this but it doesn’t work I hear the clicking while pushing or pulling the controls for the passenger windows what do you think can be the problem
Check fuses 24 25 and 26 for power after your modification. It they don't have power review your work as you may have wired the relay incorrectly. You could also have a broken wire in between the door and pillar that is controlling the 3 windows lockout relay. This relay is shown at 5:00, 5:42 and 6:15 in the video. Try bypassing the lockout relay.
I’m also not the most familiar with electronics but with your relay bypass what exactly did u do with the wires? I know which ones u used but did you disconnected them from the master control and put them into your bypass and then used another wire to reconnect it to the master control or what
at 12:19 in the video is a schematic. All the wires from the relay are spliced into the appropriate wires at the master switch. The existing wires are still connected to the switch. HTH
Hi phillip, my driver power lock not working after my brother touch the connector below passanger globebox..other 3 door works fine. Can u advice something please
Other than checking that connector you mentioned and for broken wires between the door and A pillar you will need to test the circuits. and actuator in the door.
Not car savvy so can i just replace the black relay fuse thingy
@shonyaneuk3222 that will not fix it if this is your symptoms it's actually the master switch that's the problem here.
I replaced the master door switch and that did not work. It was a brand new switch, not cheap aftermarket either. I’m thinking it’s more the harness. But I’ll use your relay bypass if I can get the correct relay.
@maritoro5955 if the wires are broken then this fix won't work
What relay did you buy and do you leave original relay back in the panel
I didn't buy one but any standard 4 pin relay will work. This additional relay turns on the relay under the dash so yes you have to leave it installed.
Thanks
¡THANK YOU! Wonderful video! 👏🏼👏🏼👍👍
What type of relay did you use? My Honda just started doing this also
@@richardayalin4051 any standard 4 pin relay will work. I used a used relay from a Ram.
I just bought my first car and it has this issue (also a 07 accord) hopefully I can run this by my grandpa who was a car mechanic or my gf dad who is an electrician. Because I only understand the basics of fuses/switches. But I sure as hell can’t read that blueprint lol.
This happened to me 2 days ago. My key fob battery died and I tried unlocking the windows from the outside by inserting my key on my driver door and turning it thrice. I do this sometimes but I have never done it with the driver side partially open. The three windows stopped working as a result. Also, all my inner lights stopped working too. Is the power Window switch somehow connected to my inner lights?
I'm not sure on the relationship of the interior lights. Sorry
@@PhillipBailey Thanks for your reply. I believe the power Window switch was tampered with by the previous car owner. I traced the fuse for the interior lights and it was blown. I replaced the fuse today and all interior lights and window buttons started working again. Just that a new issue came up. I can't use the central lock if the ignition is not turned on. I decided to replace the battery on the key fob and noticed another issue. The car is no longer responding to the key fob even though the light on the key comes on when you press the buttons. I did some research and it turns out that the car now recognises the power window switch as a new part, meaning I have to re-programme my key fob. I did that with a tutorial I came across on TH-cam and the car responded to the key fob when it is in the ignition but doesn't immediately I take it out. I have programmed it multiple times but it keeps doing the same thing. I am tired and confused.
@@smartsteevy I believe the master switch is the remote keyless entry receiver as well so if it's failed could result in the inability to program the remotes. This car did not have any issues with the remotes. Good luck possibly a new switch is in order here.
Hi i have a 2007 acura txts the same thing is happening to me. do you think i can used your illustration to my car as well ? i think is the same .
I'll have a look at the diagram to see if the circuit is the same...
@@PhillipBailey Oh yes please i'm going nuts with this issue thank you so much
I gather you meant TSX and if so the circuit looks the same but you need to confirm the master switch has failed.
Awesome video!! Where can I get this circuit? Can I just go to like AutoZone and ask for a generic circuit?
Not a pro here at all, so wondering what relay do I buy? Are all relays the same at auto parts store? What Do I ask for specifically? Thank you!
Any standard 4 pin relay will work. Most relays follow a standard pin number format. Google how a relay works to learn how it functions. You can go to a salvage yard to get one from a salvage vehicle if you like.
@@PhillipBailey that works, thank you for getting back to me!
@@PhillipBailey Just wanted to follow up and let you know this worked for my 07 Odyssey! Just finished and all windows work. Lock out button still works too. Your awesome buddy, thank you for the video!! 🍺🍺
@@rb666-33 glad you figured it out.
Once you put the new 4pin relay in the door panel, did you reinstall the power window relay under the dash?
Yes for sure you still need that.
@@PhillipBailey thank you. Amazing video. Car guru has a bunch of people asking about this from as long as 10 years ago.
@@hexc0nn392 yes ive learned its a common problem. Glad it's helped someone.
I have a 2000 Subaru Impreza sport manual. Tonight all 3 went out at the same time. Would this be similar to my problem? My mom gave me her gremlin I followed her to drop her car off at the shop because she had a no start ( starter and or alternator) we pushed the car and she popped the clutch to start it and we boogied over to drop her car off at the shop. and in the parking lot, the parking lot!!! of the mechanic shop at 7:32 on a Saturday 3 of my 4 windows stopped working. I blame her she brought the gremlin with her into my car 🤣🤣
Sounds like the child lockout switch on the master switch is off. Are you sure you didn't accidentally turn them off. The circuit is not the same at all.
@@PhillipBailey ☺️ of sources it was that simple 🤣 I have never used it but somehow I managed to depress it that night. Thank for your help
where did you buy your relay jumper and removal tool?
That particular one in the video I purchased in a kit of three off the Snap-on truck. They were bluepoint brand. I don't think they sell them anymore. I have several types. Here is an awesome kit made by Lisle that I use a lot as well: ca.jbtools.com/lisle-69300-master-relay-set-w-leads-switch-fuse-power/
If you just want to bypass a relay try this kit: www.google.com/search?q=relay+switch+kit&client=ms-android-samsung-ss&prmd=sivn&sxsrf=ALiCzsbEGw7I_kbwN_gdgRgmqmb2AQvIaA:1656040588417&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjygIb4j8X4AhUeLFkFHQIrCMoQ_AUoAnoECAIQAg&biw=412&bih=783&dpr=2.63#imgrc=bnUY_-EjxP1SVM
They are both great but the Lisle kit can help you test the actual relay in the circuit.
@@PhillipBailey Thank you so much I have a 2006 accord 3.0 coupe that the drive window works. But the passenger window does not I have changed the motor the switch and the fuses. Then I saw your video and my master switch does not activate the relay when using the window lock out switch so wanting to see if this would fix mine. Thanks for the response and the awesome video.
My inside buttons all work great.
The Remote hold "all window" and double click "all unlock" function stopped working.
Sorry to ask. Can't find any info. Worth a shot here
Do the key fobs still lock and unlock the doors? Do you have more than one fob? Try changing the remote battery?
@@PhillipBailey the battery’s only a few weeks old. Only locks and unlocks the drivers. No window roll down. I do see other things to check now. Relays. Maybe try programming. I suspect maybe is the fob though being 20yrs old.
@kewlbug is it the same year as this Accord? Was there any work done recently like battery disconnected? Sounds like a programming issue. I'm wondering if the feature is customizable. Be nice to try another remote to rule it out.
@@PhillipBailey Here's a piece of info, when I start the engine, it auto locks. but cycles twice it sounds like. I would guess my main issue here is a broken connection somewhere. possibly the door jamb.
@@kewlbug I seriously doubt it is a wiring problem.
i have this issue only on the driver side window it doesn’t work but all 3 windows work what’s the issue ?
@@amirmostafa4999 window motor, wires broken
@@PhillipBailey How do i check if its the window motor or the wires ? could it just be a fuse ?
@amirmostafa4999 on this vehicle it could be a fuse. Test the fuses, test for power and ground to the switch and motor.
What an awesome fix!
Duu
Excellent explanation
My accord 2003 in Germany has only two black relays! Yours has all filled! What's the story!?
Is it a two or four door? Not sure why it would be different
@@PhillipBailey sedan like yours!
@german_lifestyle_tajbakhsh7282 you're car may not have options this has plus its 4 years older.
@@PhillipBailey maybe... I think my motor is bad..... I have electric click there
What size wire gauge did you use
This is a very low current circuit, less than 300mA so a very light wire is adequate but too small it will be hard to find crimp terminals. I'd recommend 18awg wire just cause it's easy to work with.