My Grandad was one of the last Sussex pattern makers in Lewes. I’m always proud to mention the skill involved in the carving process especially as I’ve ended up being a carpenter. A luthier just around the corner from my house makes violins costing several thousand pounds but insisted that pattern making was another level up from his craft. I was astonished.
This man is preserving lost industrial arts for future generations. Whomever you are, thank you. I did this basic when high schools in the US still had shop class, it was a way to teach basic skills and understanding of the trades. Your an artist.
Brilliant, I must be getting the hang of the order you do things in as I find myself calling the next steps you will take, your teaching is strong master.
Just wanted to say "thank you" for making all the videos that you do. I love watching how you start out with pieces of scrap wood and end up with perfect castings in the end. Inspirational.
I just want to say I love your stuff, I hope TH-cam pays you well. I've seen all your videos and to me, YOU are a celebrity. you'll never hear me go on about some movie star, half the time my friends talk about them I'm like... who? but you sir, you, teach me things all the time, in a way you are available to me 24/7 and I'm very grateful. thank you for all the work you put into teaching us, I cast aluminum before I found you, but little things like the 1° draft.... you have any idea how I wish I knew that on day one?!?!?! thank you again.
Congratulations on another lovely video. I am just sorting my workshop out now. In my youth I used to get trailor loads of the patterns made for marine gearboxes and other things from a local factory, which I used on a wood burner. They were absolute works of art and I wish I had kept some of the smaller ones!
The amount of time and work you put into these projects is amazing, also the quality of your work is truly outstanding. I always enjoy watching your videos. Keep up the good work!
Well done David - fantastic and well put together top quality detailed metal casting video showing the metal casting process start to finish - 668th thumbs up from me ;-) Don't ever stop making these really amazing videos mate - I love watching you doing what you do best - Metal casting! :-)
The two handiest tools for pattern making in my shop are my band saw and large disc sander- both used with my two degree table plates,bang on fraught angles every time! I also keep a couple of boxes of wood off cuts,dry and ready for making patterns. Throw very little away!
I really appreciate you taking the time to make these videos. I've been wanting to start the gingery lathe and haven't had any instruction on actual pattern making. You can't have a nice cast if you don't have a nice pattern, right? Wish I could have you standing beside me while i attempted this stuff.
62 videos later and I have still never heard Myfordboy speak! I've listened to the birds in his garden and the roar of the passing traffic but I would love to hear some words of description as the job is progressed!
Another quick comment - Is your co2 tank for paint ball and what pressure is it rated at? Also, is the valve and regulator designed to mount onto the paintball tank? I have not been able to source small co2 tanks where I live in Canada except paintball tanks. Thanks Rod
boksbox The core sand, which is silica sand, can be reused by soaking in water. The water is changed over a period of a few days, the sand allowed to dry out and then it can be reused for more cores.
+Bill Lewis they have a combination of Jack hammer type things to get the big chunks then they are placed on a vibrating conveyer belt, then tumbled with steel shot. I applied to work at a steal foundry, they didn't hire me but I got an awesome tour.
I love the way you work. Instead of using sand for the core, would it work to pack the core box with greensand that has a wire inside it for stability? I'm curious if that might work or if it would fall apart.
J DeWitt DIY I have made a greensand core before when it can be placed on the drag but you could not put a cantilevered one like this in place without breaking it.
DAMN this is a great video - Really well done really learnt a lot. Yes put me down for a kit Question, what type of glue do you use that is two part one being a liquid in a container and the other a spray. I have never seen this product in Canada. Thanks again Rod
Newmachinist Hi Rod, It's a cyanoacrylic adhesive with a spray activator. Often used by kitchen fitters to glue cornice pelmet miters. The stuff in this video came from Poundland (cost £1.00) , I don't think they have a branch in Canada!
Great job, I have a question, everyone is always using co2 with sodium silicate and my neighbor who uses it in her ceramics business never uses it. Is co2 just an accelerator? Can I use sodium silicate for core sand without co2 if I won't be using it until the next day?
+Clarke E It will harden if left in the air but you may need several cores so using Co2 speeds it up. You cannot take it out of the core box until it is hard. You can use other ways to make Co2 like vinegar and bicarb or cola and menthos mints.
+myfordboy thanks, that makes sense if making several cores from the same mold, I didn't think about that. I haven't attempted a core yet, still trying to get my heat consistent for cast iron, after I get to where I'm not ruining crucibles I will pratice with the cores and get co2 when I get to that point
+RowlandF1949 It's a cyanoacrilic ( super glue) with a spray activator. Often used by kitchen fitters to fix mitres on pelmets. Usually quite expensive but I spotted this stuff in Poundland. Very pleased with it.
Excellent video as always, but I now have to ask. I've often wondered why sprues/gates aren't included as part of the pattern to which a 'riser'/filler could be attached. e.g. on this pattern, instead of cutting the gate it could perhaps have been a part of the pattern itself, or even as a separate item. The gate could have a spigot which would locate a convenient size riser/filler tube. I always get the feeling that the sand in the bottom of a newly cut gate is maybe a bit loose and could end up being incorporated into the casting. It might also save a little time, especially on a 'production' run.Regards Mark in the UK
thecorbies I do add the gating to the pattern on some patterns, especially if i am making a number of the same parts. I don't like match plates, I like to gently remove the pattern from the sand rather than remove the the sand from the pattern, more chance of damaging the mould.
Thanks for a great video. I've been casting for years but never tried a core. I'm going to try it using your info. Ever tried Petrobond sand? It works great.
Great videos. I've watched 'em all. Could you tell me what those letters are called, or what they're sold as? I would like to get some for the same purpose but I can't seem to find the proper search term. Thanks.
What glues are you using? - I noticed you didn't ram the sand into the core pattern all that hard. Does that make it easier to get out after casting? - I like your rammer, great design! LOL - Is this just a hobby, or a full-time job? Great casting work and video. I have learned a lot that I am hoping to put to use.
The glue is a cyanoacrylic with an activator. You cant ram the core sand hard as it's just like wet beach sand with the sodium silicate added. This my hobby not a job.
I have watched other casters ram the sand hard to make a cylindrical core then have a hard time removing the core after casting. You do great work. Proud to have "met" you on the internet.
Sorry for my ignorance, but because at 1:47 you do not setting the angle for 90 degree? Excuse my poor english,my nativ language is portuguese. Thanks for showing us!
Hi mate. Things are running so smoothly when you do them. It all looks like you don't even have to think about it. I always think that it's a shame that the mould has to be broken down. That farmer must be doing well with that new machine, or is that a contractor? Marcel.
+Alfred Stampe That's true, but the way I see it is that if he's a good crafstman, with manual work, and doesn't know how to design or operate a CNC, he's better off that way. Maybe ordering a design on a 3D printing shop is a better option.
HI, and greetings from Italy. i discovered your tutorials too late and i like them so so so much. congratulations for your skills i learned a lot from these videos. i am very intere4sted into the sandcasting process and i wish to ask you one information. i have a clutch cover ( from a old motorbike ) that i wish to replicate. i can use easily it as " mould " into the greensand ( i am lucky there are no undersquare so the cover can be released by the sand without ruining the moulds) but the question is : how could i compensate alloy shrink after i poured into the mould? when you make your moulds , do you already calculated their shape/size increased to compensate alloy shrink? thanks a lto and again congrats!!!alberto
+Alberto Gulmini I make my patterns 2% bigger than i want the finished item. If you are using an existing part as a pattern you would need increase it's size by adding car body filler or similar to the critical dimensions. The metal will shrink in all directions.
My patterns are small (c.70mm x 50mm x 40mm) very detailed and metal, with straight sides to boot. I have done my best to avoid undercuts. Unfortunately when I remove the pattern from the sand, the cavity is 95% perfect but there is always one small section disturbed but always in a DIFFERENT place. I think what is happening is I am not removing the pattern - which is on a flat board, -perfectly squarely. Any clues?
Straight sides don't help. I always have some draft on every vertical surface. If there is draft once it's released from the mould you have a little clearance around the pattern. It could be the moisture content of the sand. I ram hard and tap the pattern whist pulling gently. I can hear the sound change when it is released.
I particularly enjoyed how you - who have never uttered a single word in any of your videos that I am aware of - apologized for the background noise of the reaper in the fields. Yes, by all means, keep the noise down!! : )
hitnmiss49 It's a cyanoacrylic adhesive with a spray activator. Often used by kitchen fitters to glue cornice pelmet miters. The stuff in this video came from Poundland (cost £1.00) ,
+Evan Lane It's a cyanoacrylic adhesive with a spray activator. Often used by kitchen fitters to glue cornice pelmet miters. The stuff in this video came from Poundland (cost £1.00)
+Liem Duong Bo- I saw it wrong - You poured into the larger riser and let it raised up in the thinner - Cheers - btw - love your vid - watch them all - over and over again
+Liem Duong The thickness of metal is pretty well even throughout this casting. The larger part is hollow.I fed the mould so the feeder came in a part that would be machined off. I have made a lot of these parts since the video and now do not use a riser, the mould fills fine without it.
Hi . can you explain please at minute 1235 you mix sand and sodium silicate ( sand is the green sand used for casting?) and, then at minute 1400 you start to " flood" the mould with carbon dioxide. is the reaction carbon dioxide/ sodiaum silicate that makes the mould to harden? why carbno dioxide? thanks alot. and sorry for my poor english.
That is a kind offer. All the 3D prints I have seen have too low a resolution to use as a pattern unless it's an industrial printer. The pattern needs to be very smooth to withdraw from the sand.
A couple of questions. When making the 2nd piece at the 3:05 mark you apply a glue in a squeeze bottle (presumably "Crazy Glue", ACC, cyanoacrylate glue?), then spray the pattern with something just after you've applied glue. What are the two glues? You apply the squeeze-bottle glue in one direction and then the spray glue in another. Why? What are you using for your text? How long are you "zapping" your sand cores with the CO2 At around the 20:55 mark when you are fitting the cope to the drag, there appears to be a 3rd hole in the top of the cope. Is this a hole and if yes, is it a vent to allow gas to escape from around the sand core? It seems as if you are rendering your drawings using CAD software? If yes, what is the software you are using? And once again, beyoootifully done!!! A master pattern maker! Keep those videos coming, Dave. I really enjoy your craftsmanship! Bob M.
The adhesive is a cyanoacrylic with spray activator. Text is added with the edition program I am using, Corel video studio I gas for 30 seconds. The extra hole you spotted is to vent the core. Drawings were made with ViaCad.
myfordboy Sorry if I wasn't clear about my text question. Can you expand on how you create your text/ letters for your pattern? Are these standard letters that you buy somewhere?
Robert A Moore My fault, it was late when i answered. The plastic letters are pattern makers letters. I was given them so I do'n't know the source. I have seen larger ones for sale but not this small.
Just found your channel, i don't have a lathe or mill(yet) but plan to do some casting soon!(about to build my first foundary) I noticed that your superglue and activator has tommy walsh on it, he is now doing the poundland bits, did you get your superglue/CA from poundland? do they also sell activator? might be a cheaper place then where i currently buy my bits from. Love your videos! subbed. Tom.
Ivan Petryaev All the affordable 3D printers I have seen don't give a good enough finish for the pattern. I enjoy the pattern making, it's part of the hooby.
myfordboy lol look at some of the 89-96 GM aluminum heads. They used styrofoam as patterns you can see the shape of the balls of foam in the outer surface.
myfordboy Oh no for sure, i was giving an example of big companies making poor looking castings. Sorry for the Lack of explanation in that post. They look like the surface could fall apart.
+hayati savtak I saw a tv program last night where a prop for a container ship was cast. A polystyrene block was cut to shape with a CNC router and a mould made around it from a sand and some sort of cement mix. The bronze was pored in and the polystyrene vapourised ( lost foam method)
Please try to understand my translation. What is the name of this "black sand" that you use to make the molds?It is to buy it or do? I am Brazilian and here do not have this type of material. Thank you.
+myfordboy Hello ... thanks for your tip. The black sand is chromite, right?I found some companies in Brazil that sell the materials.I will try to make the green sand.Thank you for your attention.His work is very beautiful. I would like to have you as my teacher. Thanks
This guy makes some of the best casting videos on youtube and he never says a word. Amazing!
My Grandad was one of the last Sussex pattern makers in Lewes. I’m always proud to mention the skill involved in the carving process especially as I’ve ended up being a carpenter. A luthier just around the corner from my house makes violins costing several thousand pounds but insisted that pattern making was another level up from his craft. I was astonished.
It was certainly a skilled job.
Felicitaciones maestro !!!!!!!!!!!, it is very good to show to the new generation of cnc pattern makers,how pattern were made in the old days.
This man is preserving lost industrial arts for future generations. Whomever you are, thank you. I did this basic when high schools in the US still had shop class, it was a way to teach basic skills and understanding of the trades. Your an artist.
By far the best how-to casting videos on TH-cam!
Brilliant, I must be getting the hang of the order you do things in as I find myself calling the next steps you will take, your teaching is strong master.
0
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Just wanted to say "thank you" for making all the videos that you do. I love watching how you start out with pieces of scrap wood and end up with perfect castings in the end. Inspirational.
I'm speechless, Just wow! Your works are all amazing!
I just want to say I love your stuff, I hope TH-cam pays you well. I've seen all your videos and to me, YOU are a celebrity.
you'll never hear me go on about some movie star, half the time my friends talk about them I'm like... who? but you sir, you, teach me things all the time, in a way you are available to me 24/7 and I'm very grateful.
thank you for all the work you put into teaching us, I cast aluminum before I found you, but little things like the 1° draft.... you have any idea how I wish I knew that on day one?!?!?!
thank you again.
Just great...I love it that you don’t talk but just show it..very inspiring on casting and video making!
I have one of these castings and it is first class, made the construction of the engine easy and enjoyable.
Congratulations on another lovely video. I am just sorting my workshop out now. In my youth I used to get trailor loads of the patterns made for marine gearboxes and other things from a local factory, which I used on a wood burner. They were absolute works of art and I wish I had kept some of the smaller ones!
Another wonderful presentation. I an continually impressed by the precision and overall finesse of your work. Cheers,
Nathan
Being that Im partially deaf, I have always appreciated the captions. I'm able to focus on the actions, and not be distracted by the dialogue.
Jake Parker Or the annoying music often added to videos?
Especially heavy metal (pun intended)
No matter how many times I watch your vids, watching you melt and make is still always interesting
Pure genius at work! Great videos! Thanks.
Absolutely a great working video. Very nice job.
You crazy son of a thing! that is awesome!!
The amount of time and work you put into these projects is amazing, also the quality of your work is truly outstanding. I always enjoy watching your videos. Keep up the good work!
Very nice work, great looking casting!
who needs wordsbrilliant talented man thanks for the video
Well done David - fantastic and well put together top quality detailed metal casting video showing the metal casting process start to finish - 668th thumbs up from me ;-)
Don't ever stop making these really amazing videos mate - I love watching you doing what you do best - Metal casting! :-)
Thank you for sharing your skilled knowledge.
The two handiest tools for pattern making in my shop are my band saw and large disc sander- both used with my two degree table plates,bang on fraught angles every time! I also keep a couple of boxes of wood off cuts,dry and ready for making patterns. Throw very little away!
Another excellent video. Glad to see you took off the Crocks long enough to pour the metal. :)
Fantastic i could watch you and the way you work for hours '' wait i do '' lol well done and another great video thank you.
Beautiful work. That looks like a very attractive engine. Thanks for the video.
Perfeito, belo trabalho. Voce é um grande profissional. Sempre vejo seus vídeos, eles são muito inspiradores... Deus o abençoe.
I'm learning a lot from you, it must feel good to be a good Teacher, great work
amazing work as always... love those cores..
I really appreciate you taking the time to make these videos. I've been wanting to start the gingery lathe and haven't had any instruction on actual pattern making. You can't have a nice cast if you don't have a nice pattern, right? Wish I could have you standing beside me while i attempted this stuff.
Yes, a smooth pattern will give the best finish.
beautiful ... very beautiful. great job. Congratulations on another great job
Fascinating video, as always! Love it!
I do not accept your apology !! stop making awesome educational videos!!
Great video as always!
Very well done! You sir are an artisan!
👍 good job!
62 videos later and I have still never heard Myfordboy speak! I've listened to the birds in his garden and the roar of the passing traffic but I would love to hear some words of description as the job is progressed!
I get it now. Harpo Marx was your favorite!! You want to be like him. I wish Groucho was your favorite.
We used to use leather fillets.
Another quick comment - Is your co2 tank for paint ball and what pressure is it rated at? Also, is the valve and regulator designed to mount onto the paintball tank?
I have not been able to source small co2 tanks where I live in Canada except paintball tanks. Thanks Rod
Newmachinist The gas and regulator are sold for MIG welding. The cylinder can be refilled at motor factors.
Crocs are the new workshop safe shoe!
Safe enough for mixing sand!
Another great video. Nice project. Well done.
Hi
The Text that was added to this pattern, where do you purchase these letters?. Thanks. Great Casting
These were given to me but i have since bought similar. search Slaters letters on Ebay.
Wow that was really fantastic.
When you removed the core, the sand is collected in a bucket with some water. May I ask what the water is for?
boksbox The core sand, which is silica sand, can be reused by soaking in water. The water is changed over a period of a few days, the sand allowed to dry out and then it can be reused for more cores.
+Bill Lewis they have a combination of Jack hammer type things to get the big chunks then they are placed on a vibrating conveyer belt, then tumbled with steel shot.
I applied to work at a steal foundry, they didn't hire me but I got an awesome tour.
Hi and Thanks. its my problem. This 2%. i will try to see how i can do Thanks mate and you are a great worker!!
Good show!
Fascinating as ever!
A picture is worth 1000 words,a video 1000000000 words
You are a master, sir.
Impressive again. thanks.
1st Thanks for teaching, I have learned so much over the years. 2nd Where did you get the little letters for the modal? Thanks
They are actually foundry letters.
Something similar though I have used before is slatersplastikard.com/plastikard/alphabets.php
I love the way you work.
Instead of using sand for the core, would it work to pack the core box with greensand that has a wire inside it for stability? I'm curious if that might work or if it would fall apart.
J DeWitt DIY I have made a greensand core before when it can be placed on the drag but you could not put a cantilevered one like this in place without breaking it.
Very nice casting.
Great video mate,inspiring.
This is fascinating! Do you still make any patterns this way, or have you turned to 3D printing for everything these days?
I do use 3D printing now. I have videos showing patterns with Fdm and resin printers.
Very nice casting and as ever, great video. Many thanks :-)
stupendeous attention to detail ty
DAMN this is a great video - Really well done really learnt a lot.
Yes put me down for a kit
Question, what type of glue do you use that is two part one being a liquid in a container and the other a spray. I have never seen this product in Canada.
Thanks again
Rod
Newmachinist Hi Rod, It's a cyanoacrylic adhesive with a spray activator. Often used by kitchen fitters to glue cornice pelmet miters.
The stuff in this video came from Poundland (cost £1.00) , I don't think they have a branch in Canada!
Making those patterns out of wood like that is going to become a lost art now that 3D printers make it so much easier.
Great job, I have a question, everyone is always using co2 with sodium silicate and my neighbor who uses it in her ceramics business never uses it. Is co2 just an accelerator? Can I use sodium silicate for core sand without co2 if I won't be using it until the next day?
+Clarke E It will harden if left in the air but you may need several cores so using Co2 speeds it up. You cannot take it out of the core box until it is hard. You can use other ways to make Co2 like vinegar and bicarb or cola and menthos mints.
+myfordboy thanks, that makes sense if making several cores from the same mold, I didn't think about that. I haven't attempted a core yet, still trying to get my heat consistent for cast iron, after I get to where I'm not ruining crucibles I will pratice with the cores and get co2 when I get to that point
I hope you will continue showing the whole process in future video.
Can you tell me the type of glue you are using along with the chemical in the spray can? Thanks.
+RowlandF1949 It's a cyanoacrilic ( super glue) with a spray activator. Often used by kitchen fitters to fix mitres on pelmets. Usually quite expensive but I spotted this stuff in Poundland. Very pleased with it.
+myfordboy Thank you. I've been looking for something like this. Thanks for all the hard work on the videos as well.
Excellent video as always, but I now have to ask. I've often wondered why sprues/gates aren't included as part of the pattern to which a 'riser'/filler could be attached. e.g. on this pattern, instead of cutting the gate it could perhaps have been a part of the pattern itself, or even as a separate item. The gate could have a spigot which would locate a convenient size riser/filler tube. I always get the feeling that the sand in the bottom of a newly cut gate is maybe a bit loose and could end up being incorporated into the casting. It might also save a little time, especially on a 'production' run.Regards Mark in the UK
thecorbies For production casting lookup "match plates".
thecorbies I do add the gating to the pattern on some patterns, especially if i am making a number of the same parts.
I don't like match plates, I like to gently remove the pattern from the sand rather than remove the the sand from the pattern, more chance of damaging the mould.
Thanks for a great video. I've been casting for years but never tried a core. I'm going to try it using your info. Ever tried Petrobond sand? It works great.
I have petrobond and have used it for castings that need a good finish but I like greensand for everyday stuff. More easily reusable.
Will you do a video on making a boiler for it. I've always been interested in that.
Paddy Lambertinho I will do a little boiler after showing the engine construction.
Hello. Please teel me. What software do you use for detailed design?
It's ViaCad mine is v8
Can't wait for part 63!
Great videos. I've watched 'em all. Could you tell me what those letters are called, or what they're sold as? I would like to get some for the same purpose but I can't seem to find the proper search term. Thanks.
Heres the link to Plastikard. You should be able to see them on sale at model shops and also on Ebay. slatersplastikard.com/plastikard/alphabets.php
What glues are you using? - I noticed you didn't ram the sand into the core pattern all that hard. Does that make it easier to get out after casting? - I like your rammer, great design! LOL - Is this just a hobby, or a full-time job? Great casting work and video. I have learned a lot that I am hoping to put to use.
The glue is a cyanoacrylic with an activator. You cant ram the core sand hard as it's just like wet beach sand with the sodium silicate added. This my hobby not a job.
I have watched other casters ram the sand hard to make a cylindrical core then have a hard time removing the core after casting. You do great work. Proud to have "met" you on the internet.
85/5000
Good afternoon friend: today it was much easier to make the models with the 3D printer.
Sorry for my ignorance, but because at 1:47 you do not setting the angle for 90 degree?
Excuse my poor english,my nativ language is portuguese.
Thanks for showing us!
The sides of the pattern have to slope so it can be removed from the sand.
Myfordboy now sponsored by Wickes,Tesco and Crocs :) I hope they are gonna send you something nice for Christmas.
You missed Poundland and Ford!
myfordboy I thought the Ford ad needed "My" and "boy" added in sharpie to be complete.
Excellent video as always.
Hi mate.
Things are running so smoothly when you do them. It all looks like you don't even have to think about it. I always think that it's a shame that the mould has to be broken down. That farmer must be doing well with that new machine, or is that a contractor?
Marcel.
Marcel Timmers They are contractors doing the cutting. New machine with tracks!
myfordboy that figures.
Thank you for the video.
You need a CNC machine with some recyclable machinable wax, lot less manual work and you can make perfect molds every single time.
+Alfred Stampe That's true, but the way I see it is that if he's a good crafstman, with manual work, and doesn't know how to design or operate a CNC, he's better off that way.
Maybe ordering a design on a 3D printing shop is a better option.
HI, and greetings from Italy. i discovered your tutorials too late and i like them so so so much. congratulations for your skills i learned a lot from these videos. i am very intere4sted into the sandcasting process and i wish to ask you one information. i have a clutch cover ( from a old motorbike ) that i wish to replicate. i can use easily it as " mould " into the greensand ( i am lucky there are no undersquare so the cover can be released by the sand without ruining the moulds) but the question is : how could i compensate alloy shrink after i poured into the mould? when you make your moulds , do you already calculated their shape/size increased to compensate alloy shrink? thanks a lto and again congrats!!!alberto
+Alberto Gulmini I make my patterns 2% bigger than i want the finished item.
If you are using an existing part as a pattern you would need increase it's size by adding car body filler or similar to the critical dimensions. The metal will shrink in all directions.
What metal do you use for the castings? Is it aluminium or zinc perhaps?
+Animaux The frame is aluminium and the flywheel zinc/aluminium for extra weight.
My patterns are small (c.70mm x 50mm x 40mm) very detailed and metal, with straight sides to boot. I have done my best to avoid undercuts. Unfortunately when I remove the pattern from the sand, the cavity is 95% perfect but there is always one small section disturbed but always in a DIFFERENT place. I think what is happening is I am not removing the pattern - which is on a flat board, -perfectly squarely. Any clues?
Straight sides don't help. I always have some draft on every vertical surface. If there is draft once it's released from the mould you have a little clearance around the pattern. It could be the moisture content of the sand. I ram hard and tap the pattern whist pulling gently. I can hear the sound change when it is released.
I particularly enjoyed how you - who have never uttered a single word in any of your videos that I am aware of - apologized for the background noise of the reaper in the fields.
Yes, by all means, keep the noise down!! : )
What type glue are you using when you spray one part and apply it from a bottle to the other part?
hitnmiss49 It's a cyanoacrylic adhesive with a spray activator. Often used by kitchen fitters to glue cornice pelmet miters.
The stuff in this video came from Poundland (cost £1.00) ,
Hi sir,
What is the two part glue that you used in making the pattern? It may have been explained in one of your other videos, but I missed it.
+Evan Lane It's a cyanoacrylic adhesive with a spray activator. Often used by kitchen fitters to glue cornice pelmet miters.
The stuff in this video came from Poundland (cost £1.00)
+myfordboy Thanks for the quick response. Your videos are incredibly helpful to me and a ton of others. Thank you for what you do!
what is that spray and tube glue you are using? is that an instant bond or need some time to cure? btw great videos sir! i learned some great things !
It's instant. it's a cyanoacrylic with activator. In the UK you can get similar from toolstation or screwfix.
+myfordboy thank you!
You can glue a neodymium magnet to the wood under each pin hole for catching the pins.
My Hero - Why did you pour the molten alumn in the thinner riser and let it raised up in the larger one? You did that for any particular reason?
+Liem Duong Bo- I saw it wrong - You poured into the larger riser and let it raised up in the thinner - Cheers - btw - love your vid - watch them all - over and over again
+Liem Duong The thickness of metal is pretty well even throughout this casting. The larger part is hollow.I fed the mould so the feeder came in a part that would be machined off. I have made a lot of these parts since the video and now do not use a riser, the mould fills fine without it.
BRILL !!
Hi . can you explain please at minute 1235 you mix sand and sodium silicate ( sand is the green sand used for casting?) and, then at minute 1400 you start to " flood" the mould with carbon dioxide. is the reaction carbon dioxide/ sodiaum silicate that makes the mould to harden? why carbno dioxide? thanks alot. and sorry for my poor english.
+Alberto Gulmini The sand is not greensand but a silicate sand. I don't know the chemistry involved but CO2 hardens the sand.
+myfordboy i see Thanks agaib
What are you using for the text to create the dimensional lettering on the side of the casting?
+Miah2877 They are pattern makers or foundry letters.
Someone know where one can buy the letters?
With 3d printing and metal 3d printing the process somewhat has become less complicated.
Where do you get (or how do you make) such tiny pattern letters? I need some!
These were given to me and I don't know thw the souse.
I have used Slaters Letters before and thes work well. Available down to 2mm.
@@myfordboy thanks, I'll check those out. 👍
20/20
Id be happy yo 3d print some parts for you so you dont have make simple shapes and glue and wait...love you videos!
That is a kind offer. All the 3D prints I have seen have too low a resolution to use as a pattern unless it's an industrial printer. The pattern needs to be very smooth to withdraw from the sand.
send me you next design and ill do my best to help
What is core's cylinder hole for? Thank you.
The hole is primarily so I can hold it to fit it on the mould but it also helps the CO2 pass through the sand.
A couple of questions.
When making the 2nd piece at the 3:05 mark you apply a glue in a squeeze bottle (presumably "Crazy Glue", ACC, cyanoacrylate glue?), then spray the pattern with something just after you've applied glue. What are the two glues? You apply the squeeze-bottle glue in one direction and then the spray glue in another. Why?
What are you using for your text?
How long are you "zapping" your sand cores with the CO2
At around the 20:55 mark when you are fitting the cope to the drag, there appears to be a 3rd hole in the top of the cope. Is this a hole and if yes, is it a vent to allow gas to escape from around the sand core?
It seems as if you are rendering your drawings using CAD software? If yes, what is the software you are using?
And once again, beyoootifully done!!! A master pattern maker! Keep those videos coming, Dave. I really enjoy your craftsmanship!
Bob M.
The adhesive is a cyanoacrylic with spray activator.
Text is added with the edition program I am using, Corel video studio
I gas for 30 seconds. The extra hole you spotted is to vent the core.
Drawings were made with ViaCad.
myfordboy Sorry if I wasn't clear about my text question. Can you expand on how you create your text/ letters for your pattern? Are these standard letters that you buy somewhere?
Robert A Moore My fault, it was late when i answered. The plastic letters are pattern makers letters. I was given them so I do'n't know the source. I have seen larger ones for sale but not this small.
What kind of paint do you find is best to finish MDF patterns?
A few coats of emulsion sanded between coats followed by a final coat of cellulose or acrylic spray can.
Thanks.
Just found your channel, i don't have a lathe or mill(yet) but plan to do some casting soon!(about to build my first foundary)
I noticed that your superglue and activator has tommy walsh on it, he is now doing the poundland bits, did you get your superglue/CA from poundland? do they also sell activator? might be a cheaper place then where i currently buy my bits from.
Love your videos! subbed.
Tom.
+TornTech Yes, bought in Poundland, absolute bargain. Really please with the product, activator and glue £1.00. Similar product at Screwfix £13.50
im stopping at my local poundland on the way home tomorrow! thanks! you just saved me £12.50!
whats that you sprayed to the wood before you stick the other wood part?
+Nino Antonio Jandoc It's an activator for the cynoacrylic adhesive.
Hello from Russia! Your channel is absolutely awesome!
Try to use a 3d printer for making patterns without hard part of work?
Ivan Petryaev All the affordable 3D printers I have seen don't give a good enough finish for the pattern.
I enjoy the pattern making, it's part of the hooby.
myfordboy lol look at some of the 89-96 GM aluminum heads. They used styrofoam as patterns you can see the shape of the balls of foam in the outer surface.
rbellhotrod I don't want my castings to look like they are made of styrofoam.
myfordboy Oh no for sure, i was giving an example of big companies making poor looking castings. Sorry for the Lack of explanation in that post. They look like the surface could fall apart.
I've been watching you all the time. I know what will happen at the end but I relish watching to the end. congratulations.
Did you think to prop mold?
+hayati savtak Prop mold?
+myfordboy I'm sorry I wrote wrong. I asked once. How can we do so that the propeller mold.
+hayati savtak I saw a tv program last night where a prop for a container ship was cast. A polystyrene block was cut to shape with a CNC router and a mould made around it from a sand and some sort of cement mix. The bronze was pored in and the polystyrene vapourised ( lost foam method)
Thanks.
Please try to understand my translation. What is the name of this "black sand" that you use to make the molds?It is to buy it or do? I am Brazilian and here do not have this type of material. Thank you.
+GMNM1 The sand is known as Greensand, a clay bearing natural sand. have a look here
myfordboy.blogspot.co.uk/p/greensand.html
+myfordboy Hello ... thanks for your tip. The black sand is chromite, right?I found some companies in Brazil that sell the materials.I will try to make the green sand.Thank you for your attention.His work is very beautiful. I would like to have you as my teacher. Thanks
+GMNM1 I cannot confirm my black sand is chromite but it does look like that it is suitable for casting.
+myfordboy - I thank you again,but please, the site is in Portuguese. Perhaps seeing you will see what I'm talking .www.mianos.com.br