First off get some enameled copper wire (it's like . 01 mm for cell phone repairs). Second, you can try bending the legs next time before trimming them to make sure they fit, then solder. Third, scrape back some of the green solder paste carefully to show the copper trace. Fourth, take a short run of the enameled cooper wire to the scraped trace, and the pin that it's supposed to be connected to. If you do that you will be good to go! Contact me on discord if you want to do a call =)
Unlucky dude. The ripped pad is definitely connected to the one next to it, so I'm not sure if it's the problem. It looks like it just adds a ground to the shielding (of the charge port), but I'm not sure where the charging cable takes it's ground from. You could try just bridging the pins where the ripped pad (call it leg 1) and the one next to it (leg 2, I suppose). That will at least eliminate that missed pad as the problem. Failing that, it's possibly the infamous F1 or something more sinister further down... Good luck mate! 👍
Had the same issue and fixed mine. Check continuity with EM1 filter bottom left and bottom right should beep and then top left and top right should beep - My top EM1 did not have continuity on the top so basically bridged the top and now it is working
Yeah, there's two fuses in the DSi XL (and I think most of the DS/3DS. F1 (usually battery) and F2 (charging) In the case of the XL, F1 is located on the bottom of the battery board (near the Dpad). If you have no power, it's probably this one. F2 is just beneath the charging port (green resistor looking thing). If F2 is blown, the console won't charge. When testing you can just bridge the fuses, but if you're gonna sell you should absolutely replace the bridge with a proper replacement.
it’s a crazy coincidence that i have the same model and color and also same problem and the craziest that my broken dsi has broken pins in its charging port also your tutorial is helpful, it helped me know so many things on DSi’s even if he didn’t fix it properly
Think I read somewhere, somewhen, that even though the DSi, DSiXL and 3DS (can't remember which combination) uses the same DC in port, the way it attaches to the board is different. Nightmare. I wonder if there's more wrong than just the original charge port. Don't spend too much time stressing over it on each session, but do persist in track tracing the charge circuitry. All the frustrations will be worth it once you've solved the puzzle that is fault finding.
With that charge port, you could alternatively very carefully bend the legs flat, atleast I did that a few times and it worked. You should check the fuse below the charge port, but that missing pad, SHOULDN'T affect that, again I did fix one where all pads where ripped, I only ran wires for the 2 main pins, also you could test the orange light by putting the cable in with no battery, the orange light should blink, it won't turn on, but that will still prove you if current is passing
I'm currently watching this from my desk with my dsi ll in my lap, because if I move at all and the charger moves then I'll have to go back to constant wiggling. Hoping to get this repaired soon, because I've spent many hours on these old games and I would love to spend even more. Hope you do get this fixed in the end!
Will love to see another live! Did you check for continuity on F1 and EM1 (right next to the charging port)? They may be blow or they may be just not making good contact due to being exposed to the heat gun. Following the traces, that ripped pad is connected to the ground and to the shielding, so it’s ok if it’s not there as everything is shorted together (both square pads and the ground pin (the one on next to the ripped pad))
Thanks Duo :) Yeah Kris said the exact same thing so kind of makes sense. I didn't check either EM1 or F1 to be honest! That'll be one of the first things I'll do tomorrow :)
How about you compare 2 board with working charger one and non-working charger one. I guess broken pads not needed to repair because i think it grounded or if you want to repair. Try run jumper wires from that leg to the points. Try to compare first.
Same issue, same type of port. I've resoldered, and even fixed a blown fuse (which happened AFTER i put the new port in). I can charge ONLY if i put downward pressure on the cable while pushed into the port. I know my soldering is fine, i cant for the life of me figure out why it needs pressure on it to charge.
I looked this video up because I really want to fix the port to my DS that broke when I was a kid haha. Although I don’t trust myself at all to do any of this🥴
joey i was watching this video and i solved the problem you have .on the battery board where fuse f1 is there is a capacitor called tp1 that is the cause of no charging light and it not charging i swapped out the board today for a new one because the tp1 capacitor was shorting to ground now it works also the pad you tore was only a grounding pad as long as you did not lift the two middle ones you are ok
Thanks for the heads up Jon! I'm pretty sure I fixed this one in a later video though. Now I have sold it aswell, but will 100% consider this going forward as never heard of this fix before... Thanks :)
Fail > Learn > Adapt > Improve > Succeed > Repeat.
I'm confident for a fix 😊
First off get some enameled copper wire (it's like . 01 mm for cell phone repairs). Second, you can try bending the legs next time before trimming them to make sure they fit, then solder. Third, scrape back some of the green solder paste carefully to show the copper trace. Fourth, take a short run of the enameled cooper wire to the scraped trace, and the pin that it's supposed to be connected to. If you do that you will be good to go! Contact me on discord if you want to do a call =)
Unlucky dude. The ripped pad is definitely connected to the one next to it, so I'm not sure if it's the problem. It looks like it just adds a ground to the shielding (of the charge port), but I'm not sure where the charging cable takes it's ground from. You could try just bridging the pins where the ripped pad (call it leg 1) and the one next to it (leg 2, I suppose). That will at least eliminate that missed pad as the problem. Failing that, it's possibly the infamous F1 or something more sinister further down... Good luck mate! 👍
Thanks Steve. Yeah that sounds like a good idea to be honest. I think i'll start with testing F1 and EM1 hoping for the easy solution!
Had the same issue and fixed mine. Check continuity with EM1 filter bottom left and bottom right should beep and then top left and top right should beep - My top EM1 did not have continuity on the top so basically bridged the top and now it is working
Thankyou for the info Slingshot! I'll be sure to check :)
@@JoeyDoesTech Good luck! Can't wait to hear the results
Me in a large crowed : CaN I GEt A HAYAH
The Crowd : ...........................
Joey : SSERRAMMECCKKK TWEEEEEEZZZERRRRSSSSS
LOVE this 🤣🤣
The fuse right beside the port... it is blown. Use your multimeter to check continuity
Will do Onasazi! Thankyou 😁
Yeah, there's two fuses in the DSi XL (and I think most of the DS/3DS. F1 (usually battery) and F2 (charging)
In the case of the XL, F1 is located on the bottom of the battery board (near the Dpad). If you have no power, it's probably this one. F2 is just beneath the charging port (green resistor looking thing). If F2 is blown, the console won't charge.
When testing you can just bridge the fuses, but if you're gonna sell you should absolutely replace the bridge with a proper replacement.
it’s a crazy coincidence that i have the same model and color and also same problem and the craziest that my broken dsi has broken pins in its charging port also your tutorial is helpful, it helped me know so many things on DSi’s even if he didn’t fix it properly
Think I read somewhere, somewhen, that even though the DSi, DSiXL and 3DS (can't remember which combination) uses the same DC in port, the way it attaches to the board is different. Nightmare.
I wonder if there's more wrong than just the original charge port. Don't spend too much time stressing over it on each session, but do persist in track tracing the charge circuitry. All the frustrations will be worth it once you've solved the puzzle that is fault finding.
With that charge port, you could alternatively very carefully bend the legs flat, atleast I did that a few times and it worked. You should check the fuse below the charge port, but that missing pad, SHOULDN'T affect that, again I did fix one where all pads where ripped, I only ran wires for the 2 main pins, also you could test the orange light by putting the cable in with no battery, the orange light should blink, it won't turn on, but that will still prove you if current is passing
Yea that sounds like a good idea Kris. Thinking of testing the EM1 and F1 fuse first though, hopefully that'll be an easier solution!
I took a flush cuttters to my charging port and snipped it away, to remove it in pieces. I lost the same pad too.
RIP for the lost pads :(
I'm currently watching this from my desk with my dsi ll in my lap, because if I move at all and the charger moves then I'll have to go back to constant wiggling. Hoping to get this repaired soon, because I've spent many hours on these old games and I would love to spend even more. Hope you do get this fixed in the end!
yeah my ds’ charger will only work if its bent back so if i wanna charge and play i have to bend it all the way back (which is a crime)
Hey do you happen to know where I can get a replacement for the battery cover lid please let me know.
Will love to see another live!
Did you check for continuity on F1 and EM1 (right next to the charging port)? They may be blow or they may be just not making good contact due to being exposed to the heat gun.
Following the traces, that ripped pad is connected to the ground and to the shielding, so it’s ok if it’s not there as everything is shorted together (both square pads and the ground pin (the one on next to the ripped pad))
Thanks Duo :) Yeah Kris said the exact same thing so kind of makes sense. I didn't check either EM1 or F1 to be honest! That'll be one of the first things I'll do tomorrow :)
How about you compare 2 board with working charger one and non-working charger one. I guess broken pads not needed to repair because i think it grounded or if you want to repair. Try run jumper wires from that leg to the points. Try to compare first.
Thanks Hyzre, would like to try these methods tomorrow :)
in 11:47 do i have to solder them or am I good soldering the first 2 you did
Same issue, same type of port.
I've resoldered, and even fixed a blown fuse (which happened AFTER i put the new port in). I can charge ONLY if i put downward pressure on the cable while pushed into the port. I know my soldering is fine, i cant for the life of me figure out why it needs pressure on it to charge.
this happened to me too, they listed it as a 3DS charge port replacement, found out it was for a DS instead I think is what it was
We learn all together :)
Exactly that Froz!
Oh no.. next time then. Never give up!
Oh how true this was Leon! :D
@@JoeyDoesTech Yes it was :D
I looked this video up because I really want to fix the port to my DS that broke when I was a kid haha. Although I don’t trust myself at all to do any of this🥴
joey i was watching this video and i solved the problem you have .on the battery board where fuse f1 is there is a capacitor called tp1 that is the cause of no charging light and it not charging i swapped out the board today for a new one because the tp1 capacitor was shorting to ground now it works also the pad you tore was only a grounding pad as long as you did not lift the two middle ones you are ok
Thanks for the heads up Jon! I'm pretty sure I fixed this one in a later video though. Now I have sold it aswell, but will 100% consider this going forward as never heard of this fix before...
Thanks :)
Mine looks perfectly fine and won’t change :(
Can I send you my ds to replace the charging port?🙏🏼
pretty sure i burned my bored ? idk how to spell it