Need a crack to take the test? check out our Crack Trainer here wideboyz.com/product/crack-trainer-with-soft-grip/ find all the details of the test in the description
At 41 points right now, typing with my feet, still hanging in the crack cause I can't get my hands out. Seriously though, tremendous effort from both of you.
Tom laughing at Pete’s fingers when he was in agony was brilliant 🤣. Not checking if Pete’s okay. Just making fun of his hands after Pete completely squeezed everything out of this test possible.
Pete seems to have the greatest level of tolerance towards pain and suffering compared to any climber other I’ve seen do this sort of stuff. Am I right?
Interesting to think that actually that level of fitness might actually transfer to an 8c+ crack... which would explain why a lot of sport climbers can do face routes a lot higher in grade than they can crack routes. Just goes to show that grades are very style dependent!
I feel like for crack grades you need to do the test a number of time, each from a different jamming position and one from a foot jam thrn average out the scores for your final crack grade. Awesome stuff!
Hello, Love your videos!!! Keep it UP :) Just wanted to share some science correction needed on your second test, the Hand Jam Pull Up. Pete used a pronated hand jam and Tom used a supinated hand jam. Those two different hand jamming positions, use different group muscles for pulling up. However what it counts is the hand jamming hability to stick in the jamming, pulling up is not the same and also, the forearm muscles shift differently bettween supinated and pronated hand, which may also cause different capacity on holding the hand jam. Should try to repeat some of your testings taking this small details into consideration. Cheers Wide Boyz :)
Not sure about the idea of using the same crack for both the weighted hang and weighted pull-up. In the original test these are a 20mm edge and a bar -- so very different. I would guess you would want something like perfect hands (including deeper than 15 cm) to represent a bar at it is the best possible hold. Then you can do something more funky (shallower, or not perfect hands) to represent a 20 mm edge, which after all is a good hold, but not great.
every day that passes I am more convinced that every single person in the world makes a Ronnie Coleman impression before lifting weights. it instantly gives 100% strength boost.
Seems like straddle lever isn't really valid since it's flexibility dependent instead of representing an actual move. The one leg front lever represents reaching your foot out to a hold, but the straddle lever could theoretically approach the difficulty of a tucked lever for someone flexible enough.
@@MichaelFairhurst The primary goal of the test is to measure core strength. That's why it went straight from an L-sit to a front lever. If the goal was just to measure back strength (the hardest part of a front lever by far), then it would have included one-leg front levers. Doing the splits minimizes both the back and core strength required and circumvents the entire strength based nature of the tests. As a real world example, imagine climbing feet first in a crack. You have to lift your feet far above your head. The splits are not the solution.
no shaking allowed. I don't think you could do it off this jam anyway, its too shallow and the angle is all funny. You'd need a perfect 'hand straight up into the the crack' jam
I recently tried a max hang on my (vertical) crack machine, and even though I was dynamically swapping thumbs up and thumbs down hand jams, I managed to pinch a nerve in both thumbs which left them feeling slightly numb for a couple weeks. After doing some research, it seems that hanging with thumbs down jams above head height puts a lot of pressure on those nerves. Be careful if you're going to repeat this test yourself and maybe work up to the max hang before you try all four exercises at once and go for your absolute limit, nerve damage is usually not permanent but you want to avoid it at all costs.
Damn! Super effort you guys, and also Quite impressive quality of the crack itself, that thing held up fantastically even with the 140 plus kg jamming. Awesome. Great video :D
The main problem with this version of the test is that the weighted hang is supposed to be on a much harder hold than the weighted pullups! You guys did the same holds for both, making the pullup much harder than the hangs. :)
yep, they should in theory be different. we wanted to make it as simple as possible so other people would try it out though, that was our reasoning behind that, haha
Who else was pretty nervous about the metal bar on the bottom? I guess, I would have covered it with something soft, to prevent cracking my head open, while trying a front lever ^^
I discovered the stuck hand "perma-jam" near the top Direct Becky, Elephant's Perch...a long hard finger crack (not 9c... maybe 6c :). Hands were worked from the bottom many pitches... pulled hard on a jam, did the move, got a rest... and sat befuddled by my right hand stuck in a claw formation, refusing to operate.
You should have included some upside down foot jams, as they are also important in crack climbing. Compared to normal sportclimbing the legmuscles can actually get pumped 😅
So cool! You should take it one step further and do each test with all the hand sizes (i.e. paddle hands - stacks) and average the scores. The ultimate crack test!
I think the flaw with this test is only using one size of crack, Last time my local wall put a crack up it fit my hand so well I could hang from it easily one handed. A couple of millimeters wider and there's no way I would have been able to do that. A 9c crack would probably have a horrible mix of widths
yes you're right, it's an incredibly simple test, and much iek the orginal 9c test, gives you a veryyyyyyyy vague understanding of where your crack ability might be. It takes very little consideration of any technique, much like the original 9c test
On the second test Tom did CHIN UPS not pull ups...Chin ups are easier/should be easier, they engage the biceps more than the forearms would so I call for a second go..Just to see him suffer a little more XD
Woa nice scores! I'm just getting started in crack climbing, build a 3m vertical crack in my room but I cannot even reach the top yet... One day I will top out!
@@meldepinda tape on the toes gives a bit of padding for thinner cracks. But in general the feet warm into after a number of sessions. There is no real secret, just more getting familier with it. If I havet crack climbed for a while, the first few sessions back are always a bit uncomfortable, but it eases and gets much better with a bit of time, until it's not noticeable
Bloody brilliant and so damn funny too. I always have to wonder though whether Tom’s at an advantage on the pull ups as he always seems to use a chin-up grip which uses the biceps more than a typical pull-up grip as Pete does 🤔
i think climbers tend to prefer palms away and none climber tend to prefer palms towards. tom did palms towards becuase a a niggly shoulder injury. palms towards bascially didn't niggle it
@@WideBoyz Doing it to stop aggravating an injury makes sense. I would still assume it’s an advantage though if the two techniques were compared against each other
makes you think that the grading on Cracks compared to face climbs is a bit of, when two of the best (if not the best) crack climbers in the World have never pulled of a 9a crack climb
if the crack is higher up for the crack duration hang test can you last longer if you don't have to continue lifting your feet off the ground. maybe have a ledge on each side you for when you have to stop, but space directly below to allow to hang without having to raise your legs in the middle.
Need a crack to take the test? check out our Crack Trainer here wideboyz.com/product/crack-trainer-with-soft-grip/
find all the details of the test in the description
Here go the wideboyz casually selling some crack online
The calculator bit was absolutely hilarious (and the rest was also great)
1+1=2 +1=3 seconds 😂
Haha Yeh. Only randall could do something as daft as that!
Having said that...it's not like I noticed either 😂
At 41 points right now, typing with my feet, still hanging in the crack cause I can't get my hands out. Seriously though, tremendous effort from both of you.
you beat pete by 5 points? on crack?
Genunie question, what's your hardest sport route?
you two guys have such a chemistry its so funny
Tom laughing at Pete’s fingers when he was in agony was brilliant 🤣. Not checking if Pete’s okay. Just making fun of his hands after Pete completely squeezed everything out of this test possible.
Did, the test.
Got negative 17.
Better than I expected.
Pete seems to have the greatest level of tolerance towards pain and suffering compared to any climber other I’ve seen do this sort of stuff. Am I right?
love pain and suffering
You two Wide Boyz are strong!! But how about that "Good effort." tee shirt? In big letters on the back? Pretty pretty please?
your suffering brought a big smile to my face, so thank you.
Excellent 😎 👍
Interesting to think that actually that level of fitness might actually transfer to an 8c+ crack... which would explain why a lot of sport climbers can do face routes a lot higher in grade than they can crack routes. Just goes to show that grades are very style dependent!
well the hardest crack to exist is 8c+ which pete did so we wouldn’t know 100% what’s accurate
I just love how positive you two are! Always laughing
I feel like for crack grades you need to do the test a number of time, each from a different jamming position and one from a foot jam thrn average out the scores for your final crack grade. Awesome stuff!
The hand jam deadhang was super impressive by both guys. That must be so painful after 90 seconds
More just misery 😂
Hello,
Love your videos!!! Keep it UP :)
Just wanted to share some science correction needed on your second test, the Hand Jam Pull Up. Pete used a pronated hand jam and Tom used a supinated hand jam. Those two different hand jamming positions, use different group muscles for pulling up. However what it counts is the hand jamming hability to stick in the jamming, pulling up is not the same and also, the forearm muscles shift differently bettween supinated and pronated hand, which may also cause different capacity on holding the hand jam.
Should try to repeat some of your testings taking this small details into consideration.
Cheers Wide Boyz :)
This is honestly really impressive.
3:36 + 14" = 4:00???? Maybe that works on the calculator :'D
9c test on crack holds. Seems super human. Well done!
Weird, I feel now somewhat stoked to cripple myself to get with WB on some projects :D
We need that calculator bit as a short clip to crack up some non-climbers :D
this was a banger of an episode! loved every second of it!
amazing great to hear :) thanks for watching
"The longest 1 second hang of my life" Said the calculator
What a positive atmosphere!
That was absolutely amazing
thanks! glad you enjoyed it :)
I feel like you could have involved a foodjam there, maybe even for the core test. Great fun though, thanks!
Not sure about the idea of using the same crack for both the weighted hang and weighted pull-up. In the original test these are a 20mm edge and a bar -- so very different. I would guess you would want something like perfect hands (including deeper than 15 cm) to represent a bar at it is the best possible hold. Then you can do something more funky (shallower, or not perfect hands) to represent a 20 mm edge, which after all is a good hold, but not great.
It would be super interesting to see a standardized crack for data collection and training, as Lattice does with the rung.
every day that passes I am more convinced that every single person in the world makes a Ronnie Coleman impression before lifting weights.
it instantly gives 100% strength boost.
lightweight Buddy
Your move, Magnus.
"We're like twins, separated at birth, by ten years." Your poor mother.
You guys Crack me up :)
Nice test guys!! The core tests should clearly be done from some kind of invert, though! :)
Seems like straddle lever isn't really valid since it's flexibility dependent instead of representing an actual move. The one leg front lever represents reaching your foot out to a hold, but the straddle lever could theoretically approach the difficulty of a tucked lever for someone flexible enough.
Yeah but hip flexibility is incredibly important for climbing, so I don't think this is actually an issue.
@@MichaelFairhurst The primary goal of the test is to measure core strength. That's why it went straight from an L-sit to a front lever. If the goal was just to measure back strength (the hardest part of a front lever by far), then it would have included one-leg front levers. Doing the splits minimizes both the back and core strength required and circumvents the entire strength based nature of the tests.
As a real world example, imagine climbing feet first in a crack. You have to lift your feet far above your head. The splits are not the solution.
Kind of awesome
Tom and his squats :-)
You should challenge someone directly. Maybe Magnus?
Great
You English boys love your jam
Goes great with tea and scones ;)
Jam first or cream first?
Are you allowed to shake a hand out on the Enduro hang? And do you thing you'd have enough strength in the other hand to do so in the first place?
no shaking allowed. I don't think you could do it off this jam anyway, its too shallow and the angle is all funny. You'd need a perfect 'hand straight up into the the crack' jam
Hey boys check out the pronation/supination training techniques armwrestlers do, could be of interest!
Sounds like good flipperoo training
How will Magnus do on this test
Our guess is he probably doesn't want to try it 😅 we've put him through too much crack already
The weight on a bar looks like an accident waiting to happen. 🤔, well it'll up the. ratings😳😭
Man, you guys shoulda used a sling or something to extend the weight away from you some! Protect your nuggets!🤣
Shame Magnus hasn't been training crack but gymnastics.
Don't think he's keen on cracking
I almost died laughing at the cripple hand jam bit. Don’t take this the wrong way but your suffering is pure entertainment!
This video made me smile for like 27 minutes straight!!!!
Thanks for the filming Pete!! always good to work together
@@WideBoyz great pleasure as always!!! Super stoked with the results! Fab vid!
I think you overshot quite a bit by taking the numbers from the normal test, since jamming is fundamentally a lot harder than clinging onto a bar.
Tough one - new 30min videos from both you and Magnus. Of course I had to go with yours. This was so good! Absolute beasts!
glad you enjoyed it and thanks for tuning in and watching :)
Love how hard you guys are trying, color change on Pete's face at the 3min hang was absolutely insane
we were in pain on that last test, haha!!
Tom's plaintive "that's already happening" during his hang was the funniest thing ever ahahaha
I recently tried a max hang on my (vertical) crack machine, and even though I was dynamically swapping thumbs up and thumbs down hand jams, I managed to pinch a nerve in both thumbs which left them feeling slightly numb for a couple weeks. After doing some research, it seems that hanging with thumbs down jams above head height puts a lot of pressure on those nerves. Be careful if you're going to repeat this test yourself and maybe work up to the max hang before you try all four exercises at once and go for your absolute limit, nerve damage is usually not permanent but you want to avoid it at all costs.
Love the Ronnie Coleman references at the start
😂 lightweight, lightweight buddy 💪
I wondered if anybody else got that xD
Haha me too
Ain't nothing but a peanut
The bit where you pulled up the calculator instead of the stopwatch and neither of you noticed was hilarious. Peak wideboyz moment.
Damn! Super effort you guys, and also Quite impressive quality of the crack itself, that thing held up fantastically even with the 140 plus kg jamming. Awesome. Great video :D
Once again, great video guys. Amazed how much Pete can suffer.
love suffering
"that was dubious wasnt it" "..yeah" LOL
hahah very dubious!!
Magnus Mitbo you're not going to like this but make sure he does do it!
Oh my Ondra that calculator mix up at the beginning was unbelievable!!! pissing myself
I like how it had to cut at 6:05 because it took so long for him to get up.
The main problem with this version of the test is that the weighted hang is supposed to be on a much harder hold than the weighted pullups! You guys did the same holds for both, making the pullup much harder than the hangs. :)
yep, they should in theory be different. we wanted to make it as simple as possible so other people would try it out though, that was our reasoning behind that, haha
Sick effort! Still waiting for a "Crack is my jam" t-shirt guys
Paddle, ooreppilf is our next tee. But crack is my jam..I like tht!
"Jam is my crack" also works, bit more dodgy though.
You pair of absolute BEASTS.
Had sausage fingers like Pete's bringing home the shopping in carrier bags took a while to return to movable 😂
ah yes the shopping bag carry, haha. the sensation was very similar to that after doing the hang, but a bit more crippled
@@WideBoyz Yer spuds and beans etc don't come near your body weight for 3.36.
@@dave_h_8742 😂
When you get to laugh loudly through all of the video you know it is a good video :)
I love that you've taken the initiative to do this!
Almost half an hour of the wide boyz, this saved my evening.
Calculator, those faces while fighting for more and Pete's cripled fingers at the end :D best video!
I think you need more crack specific tests. different stances and positions that need to be held.
Lolls that was cool! Think ya need to raise up your frame so legs can just dangle... Wicked cripple fingers ;)
Who else was pretty nervous about the metal bar on the bottom?
I guess, I would have covered it with something soft, to prevent cracking my head open, while trying a front lever ^^
Heading to the hardware store to build a crack trainer right now.
do it :)
Opening the calculator instead of the clock. I can relate so much.
Suffering is good. It´s all training for something.
Please make Tshirt
A banger of a video lads. Editing was great and unreal to see the Microphones.
Glad you enjoyed it
Look at how red your hands were!!! Oh my goodness.
get sean villanueva o'driscoll in the cellar
He has been to the cellar a few years ago :)
I discovered the stuck hand "perma-jam" near the top Direct Becky, Elephant's Perch...a long hard finger crack (not 9c... maybe 6c :). Hands were worked from the bottom many pitches... pulled hard on a jam, did the move, got a rest... and sat befuddled by my right hand stuck in a claw formation, refusing to operate.
The pull up seems terrifying the hand is just gonna pop.
You should have included some upside down foot jams, as they are also important in crack climbing. Compared to normal sportclimbing the legmuscles can actually get pumped 😅
Damn, Pete's hands were so red 😂
So cool! You should take it one step further and do each test with all the hand sizes (i.e. paddle hands - stacks) and average the scores. The ultimate crack test!
Looks at calculator for visual confirmation…
Yep
Man your hands looked like raw beef after that jam max hang lol
Really good effort boys.
I think the flaw with this test is only using one size of crack, Last time my local wall put a crack up it fit my hand so well I could hang from it easily one handed. A couple of millimeters wider and there's no way I would have been able to do that. A 9c crack would probably have a horrible mix of widths
yes you're right, it's an incredibly simple test, and much iek the orginal 9c test, gives you a veryyyyyyyy vague understanding of where your crack ability might be. It takes very little consideration of any technique, much like the original 9c test
U Fucking god
the injure risk must be super high on these
On the second test Tom did CHIN UPS not pull ups...Chin ups are easier/should be easier, they engage the biceps more than the forearms would so I call for a second go..Just to see him suffer a little more XD
Calculator, Clock, Calendar, and I never click on the right one the first time.
glad its not just us, haha
Spicey
😂 Laughed so hard, I almost choked. Thanks for that.
Glad you enjoyed it
Woa nice scores! I'm just getting started in crack climbing, build a 3m vertical crack in my room but I cannot even reach the top yet... One day I will top out!
Cool! Good to hear of more home cracks 💪
would you have any tips on numbing the feet before a session? It seems my feet kill me more then my hands
@@meldepinda tape on the toes gives a bit of padding for thinner cracks. But in general the feet warm into after a number of sessions. There is no real secret, just more getting familier with it. If I havet crack climbed for a while, the first few sessions back are always a bit uncomfortable, but it eases and gets much better with a bit of time, until it's not noticeable
Many thanks for the guidance! Will put lots of mileage through it!
@@meldepinda don't go to distruction though 😅 carefully considered mileage is the key
Bloody brilliant and so damn funny too. I always have to wonder though whether Tom’s at an advantage on the pull ups as he always seems to use a chin-up grip which uses the biceps more than a typical pull-up grip as Pete does 🤔
i think climbers tend to prefer palms away and none climber tend to prefer palms towards. tom did palms towards becuase a a niggly shoulder injury. palms towards bascially didn't niggle it
@@WideBoyz Doing it to stop aggravating an injury makes sense. I would still assume it’s an advantage though if the two techniques were compared against each other
You've never climbed and climbed 9C done but can you take the 9C test? You're great guys.
makes you think that the grading on Cracks compared to face climbs is a bit of, when two of the best (if not the best) crack climbers in the World have never pulled of a 9a crack climb
So what's the worst muscle ache Tom? Thumbs? Arms? Core? Or is it the legs from those weighted squats? ;)
if the crack is higher up for the crack duration hang test can you last longer if you don't have to continue lifting your feet off the ground. maybe have a ledge on each side you for when you have to stop, but space directly below to allow to hang without having to raise your legs in the middle.
Surley as the masters of crack the scores should be calibrated off your max grades vs scores to better translate the 9c sport to crack
I love you guys, crippled hand jam :D Both laughing on it :D :D
Need Tom in the cellar with a new move, the hair flick back paddle flipparoo!
Damn, it was so close. Pete needs to just go and project a 9a crack route, he can do it, I believe!
got a 14, That is pretty spot on for what I climb. My crack is 2 1/4 inch wide tho
WideBoyz "Good Effort" tshirt when?
if you run out of paddle just turn your wrist! - the more you know - good effort!