Hey Folks please do not try to post comments with links or email addresses in them TH-cam filters them automatically. If you need to find materials, do an internet search with your favorite search engine.
John so many Thanks for bringing us the wonderful legacy of the "Art of Jack Burgess" I've had friends tell me about him for a very long time. Never got out to meet him or see his layout before I moved away from Califirnia. my bad. Thanks to Jack for the tidbit about the Nibbler tool. OMG where has this been all my life. I knew about them but only knew about their metal and PC board uses. Never dawned on me to use on styrene, Cut out some doors and windows for a couple of On30 Bobber cabooses and OMG it was amazing. I bet they would do well on cardstock and maybe even thin woods. I'll let you all know. Thanks again to you both, awesome info! Cant wait to see more when you can
Hello, the material I use for my models in the garden is Forex plastic. The thickness of these plates ranges from 1 mm to 12 mm. For outdoor use, this material should always have a coat of paint. Greatings Frans ( Belgium )
I’ve used a NWSL Chopper for a bunch of years and had the same groove issue. I disassembled it, drilled mounting holes for everything on the other end of the board, and reassembled it. I also took a self healing cutting Matt and layed it on the table part of the chopper! Micro Mark sells the former NWSL products under their brand now I think.
I was so glad to see you mention "Canopy Glue" (Pacer Formula 560). I also use it for putting LEDs in place in the locos, tacking wires in place with decoder installation, and metal or plastic detail parts. Lots of uses for this glue. And when putting in windows, locos, passenger cars, windows, it doesn't craze the plastic like solvent based glues.
I thought I'd chime in on this, as my LGB and Bachmann 2 axle bobber cabeese didn't have windows at certain ends, so I basically use Evergreen's clear styrene cut to act as windows with a styrene strip frame around it to act as a panel to hide the seams. also I'm about to use the plastructs T Beams to act as braces on my LGB Motorized tender and when nthat's done I'll post the photos
Not from me...I don't have any wood structures on my layout except for wood trestles and buildings that I built from thin plywood and then covered with paper printed with brick patterns...
Great share! Jack, can you please walk me through the voltage numbers for a HO-scale layout. Specifically, what voltage is used on the bus wires? What voltage is running along the train tracks? Happy New Year!!!
Thank you for replying. My error. I am looking for the DCC voltage for both the track rails and the bus wires. I want to know what numbers to test for with the multi-meter.
Great videos however I would use the MEK in a ventilated area. I made a hood over my workbench with a fan and charcoal filter. From New Jersey Health department; Breathing Methyl Ethyl Ketone can irritate the nose and throat causing coughing and wheezing. * Exposure can cause dizziness, lightheadedness, headache, nausea, blurred vision, and may cause you to pass out. * Repeated high exposure can damage the nervous system and may affect the brain.
Thanks for the info Jack, I appreciate the Tip. So where is a good source for the MEK? Also does it stick to the cutting mat? other then Glass what are other surfaces to assemble on that you wont glue your work too?
MEK is available at hardware stores except on California where it was taken off of the market several years ago. It bonds styrene by melting the two surfaces very slightly and then evaporates leaving them bonded/melted together. It doesn't stick to a cutting mat or glass. (In the video, I had the two pieces of the building setting on the cutting mat and didn’t even think about it being bonded to the matt.) You really don’t need to worry about bonding your styrene model to anything except another piece of styrene. The only real concern it two pieces of styrene together crooked…as soon as the MEK flashes off, you will not be able to separate them.
Hey Folks please do not try to post comments with links or email addresses in them TH-cam filters them automatically. If you need to find materials, do an internet search with your favorite search engine.
Thanks, Jack for sharing your wisdom!
John so many Thanks for bringing us the wonderful legacy of the "Art of Jack Burgess" I've had friends tell me about him for a very long time. Never got out to meet him or see his layout before I moved away from Califirnia. my bad. Thanks to Jack for the tidbit about the Nibbler tool. OMG where has this been all my life. I knew about them but only knew about their metal and PC board uses. Never dawned on me to use on styrene, Cut out some doors and windows for a couple of On30 Bobber cabooses and OMG it was amazing. I bet they would do well on cardstock and maybe even thin woods. I'll let you all know. Thanks again to you both, awesome info! Cant wait to see more when you can
Oh and just like Jack said, I got them on AMazon, very reasonably priced and so great a tool!
I could watch Jack all day. So much knowledge and accuracy! Im looking forward to the next installment!
We like to say "Accuracy" is his middle name! :)
Epic how to guide, deep into the subject of styrene modeling. So much thanks to Jack for sharing and TSG for producing this.
There's more coming! :)
Jack Burgess is a treasure to the hobby! Thanks for another great video with him in it! Always straight up informative!
Thanks John for bringing us more excellent modeling information from Jack Burgess.
Fantastic videos. Great sound, camera work, & content. You are a pro. Few achieve this.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hello,
the material I use for my models in the garden is Forex plastic. The thickness of these plates ranges from 1 mm to 12 mm. For outdoor use, this material should always have a coat of paint.
Greatings
Frans ( Belgium )
Thanks John, another great 'how to Video' from Mr Burgess, really enjoyable
I’ve used a NWSL Chopper for a bunch of years and had the same groove issue. I disassembled it, drilled mounting holes for everything on the other end of the board, and reassembled it. I also took a self healing cutting Matt and layed it on the table part of the chopper! Micro Mark sells the former NWSL products under their brand now I think.
I was so glad to see you mention "Canopy Glue" (Pacer Formula 560). I also use it for putting LEDs in place in the locos, tacking wires in place with decoder installation, and metal or plastic detail parts. Lots of uses for this glue. And when putting in windows, locos, passenger cars, windows, it doesn't craze the plastic like solvent based glues.
Love these videos from Jack Burgess
Very talented builder Thanks John!!
Great explanations. And Jack is getting better, I think.
Another great video!
Great video!
Great video
I love this if only for the compulsiveness of it.
Thanks for another great Jack Burgess video John. The man is a virtual fountain of information!
EXCELLENT video, much appreciated....
More great stuff, Jack. I'll have to find bottles like that.
keep an eye on that can of MEK, it might just run out 😀
thanks again, gold video
I saw Jack's MEK stash. He's unlikely to run out this century. :))
Great start...can't wait for part 2. But...I do miss HO scale.
In lieu of those applicator bottles, the Touch'n'Flow applicator works great for MEK.
I have never tried them but I don't want an open bottle of MEK on my workbench...
No sense of adventure! :)
Another source for the small glue bottles would be henna bottles ( easily found on Amazon).
Good Stuff! I'm hoping for some styrene tips on things like installing Cannon parts like locomotive doors.
I thought I'd chime in on this, as my LGB and Bachmann 2 axle bobber cabeese didn't have windows at certain ends, so I basically use Evergreen's clear styrene cut to act as windows with a styrene strip frame around it to act as a panel to hide the seams. also I'm about to use the plastructs T Beams to act as braces on my LGB Motorized tender and when nthat's done I'll post the photos
Will there be a video on building with wood?
Not from me...I don't have any wood structures on my layout except for wood trestles and buildings that I built from thin plywood and then covered with paper printed with brick patterns...
Great share! Jack, can you please walk me through the voltage numbers for a HO-scale layout. Specifically, what voltage is used on the bus wires? What voltage is running along the train tracks? Happy New Year!!!
If you are talking about standard non-DCC wiring, the voltage is 12 volts both in the track wiring and in the rails...
Thank you for replying. My error. I am looking for the DCC voltage for both the track rails and the bus wires. I want to know what numbers to test for with the multi-meter.
Google it and you should get your answer...
Great videos however I would use the MEK in a ventilated area. I made a hood over my workbench with a fan and charcoal filter.
From New Jersey Health department;
Breathing Methyl Ethyl Ketone can irritate the nose and throat causing coughing and wheezing. * Exposure can cause dizziness, lightheadedness, headache, nausea, blurred vision, and may cause you to pass out. * Repeated high exposure can damage the nervous system and may affect the brain.
Thanks for the info Jack, I appreciate the Tip. So where is a good source for the MEK? Also does it stick to the cutting mat? other then Glass what are other surfaces to assemble on that you wont glue your work too?
MEK is available at hardware stores except on California where it was taken off of the market several years ago. It bonds styrene by melting the two surfaces very slightly and then evaporates leaving them bonded/melted together. It doesn't stick to a cutting mat or glass. (In the video, I had the two pieces of the building setting on the cutting mat and didn’t even think about it being bonded to the matt.) You really don’t need to worry about bonding your styrene model to anything except another piece of styrene. The only real concern it two pieces of styrene together crooked…as soon as the MEK flashes off, you will not be able to separate them.
One of the tools that I don't have...squares to use in assembling building kits.