Step Cut 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- Daniel Murphy developed and demonstrates this adaptation of the bore cut and back release for tree falling. The plunge cut and back release was popularized by the Game of Logging training. This adaptation creates a "step" of fibers in the back release which offers a number of advantages for the suburban arborist.
the climber is qualified, just not sure i get all this extra cutting on a straight stem . and a number of advantages you mention, which advantages are you referring to.seems like a bit of unnecessary shock to the tree as it goes, when you can just put in the back cut and pull it over smoothly. hhmmm oh well, what ever floats yer boat as they say , nice riggin on the tulips bro
Good questions, generally its better to make to make the face cut above the trunk flare, because its an easier cut, and the wood grain in the flare is often very unstable, which can't be trusted to hold side leaners or tight drops. So the differential in height is primarily to keep the hinge wood above the flare, while allowing half a flush cut at the stump. makes for easier handling and preparation for stump grinding. so this would be particular to suburban tree work. not needed in the woods
Interesting technique. Appreciate your videos and explanations Daniel.
I like this video. You definitely show some trust and success with this technique in this video. Good video for sure! I do a great many cripple and pull jobs but not with this method. This looks like it is a technique that is best in straight pull scenarios as opposed to complex compensation pulls.
Seems like a great cut. Im just nervous about doing things different on big trees
I've used this cut several times for machine assisted felling...Works great.
The Author is very skilled and experienced. I recommend cutting a tree as simple as possible to get good safe results. While I learned alot, ,learning alot from Daniel, I would cut basic and wedge the tree over, maybe a safety line, but my force would come from my wedge and control of my hinge. Over complicating things introduces increased error or risk, especially for us less experienced, with all due respect, I recommend the simplest most effective result, minimizing variables and risk. .
Like Billy says, too much cutting.. but great demo..
Right on! I really liked the white pine top cut out with noone in the tree.!
That is some impressive stuff right there . 'NUFF SAID !
Glad to hear the feedback.. I love having that cut in my bag of tricks...
Interesting idea, it obviously works for you, which says a lot about your wealth of experience. I've seen others who put the last back cut above the bore. Their thinking is the raised step at the rear of the stump will hold the rear of the tree in place, preventing a barber chair by holding the stem until the tree falls over enough to clear the higher stump at the rear. By that time the forces have decreased and the faller has moved away from danger. What do you think about that?
Love the safety aspect.
anything where you are nowhere near the back of the tree is great in my book.
Wee question, i was looking closely at your cuts to figure out where to take the back cut too. I notice when you started the back cut you went level (or in line) with the front of the plunge cut and when you got to the other side to finish the back cut you took it closer to level (or in line) with the back of the plunge cut, any help? cheers
Nice video, thanks!
So much safer for pulling and for leaners
Would you consider this cut suitable for large trees with full canopies that have side lean (shaped hinge)or back lean?
As usual the answer is "IT ALL DEPENDS".... There has to be a reason to use this cut instead of a traditional notch and back cut or the Game of Logging, plunge cut with back release. I was pretty impressed with this cut when I made it up some years ago, but don't use it as much these days... Probably not good to use with back lean, as you want the force of the pull line to fight the lean as much as possible and not have to break the extra fibers to get the hinge to move. And side leaners you'd like to leave the hinge as fat as possible to hold against side lean, so you'd like to not create a situation that required extra force to trip the hinge. Of course it you had tons of pulling power and multiple pull lines, it could work with either situation, but really shouldn't be needed. The step cut is great for making sure the hinge will not trip until the tree is pulled on with a lot of force, which allows the faller to leave the base of the tree before calling for the pull. The real reason I made it up was so we didn't have to handle the extra piece of the flush cut as a full round. making it a half round allowed us to chip it ...
Can anyone explain a little more about what is happening? What prevents this tree from just falling over when you make that back cut? I thought the weight of the tree would sit down on the saw.
once the plunge cut is made, the remaining holding wood of the hinge is defined... by creating a separation between the two levels of the back cut, there is a "step" of fibers that need to be broken (think energy needed to split firewood) before the tree can move...
So then the weight of the tree is concentrated at the hinge point? And the action to breaking the tree becomes like you said in your video a snap cut?
Hey billy, I think the part that’s throwing you off is the fact that it’s got a pull line in it. In that instance, the weight of the tree is shared between the hinge and the fibers left holding the back half. The rope is already working against those back fibers because of pretension, eliminating the back lean & saw pinch.
Billy, your concern is valid, I would make your traditional cut and leave this more advanced stuff to the pros.
You can see in the video one of the trees has rotten rise holding wood, validating your concerns, your logic is healthy and valid, keep it simple. notch, foirm your wedge wood, or hinge wood, back cut and wedge over like everybody else does, careful of wind. Leave the tricks for the Big Leaguers, keep it simple, this is my opinion as an amateur with all due respect. .
Daniel you are good ! :
questo si che un vero professore ha anche la felpa della Stihl
yer i was told bore it out if it leans" so diferent but seems like works well" cheers
watch n learn 5 stars dan, the longer fibers between the step cut and the hinge fibers give you time to get away andlet the bobcat do the pulling......right?
Yes, 'that is definitely one advantage. You can trust that the cut isn't going anywhere until you pull it with the machine. There are certain trees, especially dead trees or trees with lots of deadwood that can drop stuff from the sky at the first little bit of movement.
Hey Daniel, 3 questions. How come such the height difference between the plunge cut and the lower release back cut? How come you chose to make your face at the height you did? Wouldn't lower help the tree to stay on the stump longer? And how come you choose to out so little when you plunge cut, and do the majority of the cutting on the lower back cut? I know there must be a reason for all of these as you usually do things a particular way for a particular outcome. Thanks
Yes Jeff, Good questions and sorry for the late reply. There are a number of reasons it's helpful to keep the hinge fibers above the flare. For one it's easier to cut, but more importantly, the fibers in the flare are often all squirrely and may not hold as well as the straight fibers above the flare. Disposal of the wood is a major issue. On the pin oak, the height of the notch was set to allow the half-round to be easy to pick up and fit through the chipper (less than 17") or useable for firewood. On the tulip the notch was even higher, trying to get above the decay on the base. Keeping at least half the cut low on the stump helps make stump grinding easier.
Would have been nice to see the hinge when it fell instead of just the tree falling over
My saw doesn't cut like that.
boh