I tried setting up my bike with a 10-40 cassette with a 9 speed shifter, it did not work properly. After adding the Wolfe tooth, shortening the chain, pulling the B screw, it works really well. Thanks for the video - bang on...
Did a similar setup on my bike and still wondering why shimano says max cog for r7000 gs is 34t...but we all know it can go way bigger lol. Great vid man
Shimano has a very high standard for shifting performance. Although larger than 34t works well enough, there is a noticable difference between using a 34 cassette and 40, for example. Thanks for watching!
@@peelingpedaler3635 I'm most likely gonna go with your 42t recommendations with my specialized sequoia since it only has a 36t currently but need more
Hey man my current set up is 11-36 cassette with 46/30 absolute black chainrings on a Sram Rival 11spd groupset. How do I get an 11-42 cassette to work on my bike? and will a 11-42 cassette work with my 46/30 chainrings? I think I just need to buy the 11-42 cassette and the Wolfe tooth road link, but correct me and tell me exactly what I need. Thank you
I have 2x11(36/26 x 11-40) with the RoadLink. Lots of good advice here, thank you for that. I will to try to get my shifting even better (it's ok now). I think the main help will be getting my chain as short as possible in big/big. One question: Isn't rotating the RoadLink backwards the same as tightening the B screw ? Seems the effect would be the same.
Its not exactly the same. There are four combos to consider. Ymmv: 1. roadlink normal + b screw in: guide pulley too far from smallest cogs. Poor shifting. 2. roadlink normal + no B screw: Cannot clear biggest cogs. 3. roadlink back + b screw in. Guide pulley too far from all cogs. Poor shifting. 4. roadlink back + no B screw. Guide pulley can clear large cogs and get close enough to small cogs. Good shifting. Pushing in b screw causes guide pulley to get further from cogs while tilting roadlink back actually causes guide pulley to get closer to small cogs. Those are some pretty low gears you have there. Are you running that on a road bike? If so, don’t you wish you had a bit more high gears so when you’re riding on the flats, you can shift to hard gears, stand out of the saddle and pedal to get flow back to the sitbones? I’m done hacking my way to get what I want (well sort of) and I’m saving for GRX di2. But I have to hack it with 46/24 chainrings from White Industries or Rene Herse. Di2’s synchro shift will make it feel like a super wide range 1x and the 46t big ring will allow me to cruise on flats near the middle of the cassette where jumps are closest for greatest comfort, efficiency, reliability etc. It will be the widest 2x11 derailleur drivetrain ever.
@@peelingpedaler3635 Your next drivetrain sounds incredible - please post it when finished. My gearing is on a roadbike. I like to climb big hills and I weigh around 225lbs( of solid muscle 🙄). I am able to pedal on the flats or downhills up to 25- 28 mph in 36/11 and I can easily stand and pedal when needed so I am ok with my high gear. On downhills gravity takes over anyway and I am usually out in front of any group I ride with because of my weight. Obviously it's a different story going up, but I am so happy to spin rather than grind up those big hills. I like the small difference in the chainrings which I find useful when I want to moderately change my cadence without shifting a couple of cogs in the back. No big deal, just kinda cool to switch it up a bit shifting wise.
Hello hello. I'm just confirming those ebay 46/30 chainrings before I order them for compatibility with my cranks. In the description it says those chainrings don't go with hidden bolt type cranks. I think I've got the right answer, hidden bolt type cranks means there is one bolt 'hidden' behind one of the crank arms, right? If that's so, then my cranks are NOT hidden bolt cranks and I'm good to order.
Hidden-bolt is a Sram product, nothing to worry about since you have Shimano 105, right? Just make sure you get the rings meant for Shimano 4-arm spiders.
Believe it or not my bike uses Shimano 105 everywhere else but cranks. Cheaped out on the cranks and instead used Shimano FC-RS510 crankset. Well they can do that as the price was right. Yep I've confirmed the 46/30 is 4-arm asymmetrical just like mine. Wicked stuff my friend, I"m ordering those mfs right now. Thank you!
Never even knew this crankset existed! The funny thing is that you've pretty much done 100% of your own work and research so far. I'm excited to hear how these rings work for you. Make sure you cut 2 links from your chain (4 teeth worth) to compensate for the smaller big-big combo. You'll need to lower your FD too. Does your bike have a circular seat tube with a band clamp? Or is it a braze-on?
I'm finding it hard to tell if band clamp or braze-on. I can see with the Shimano website that this FD does come in either band clamp or braze-on. My seat tube is like a D-shape, similar to the shape of the D-fuse seatpost but a bit rounder. There are two screws driven into the seat tube which holds a plastic attachment, which the FD is bolted to. That bolt is on a small slider that seems to make the FD slide up or down a little, however it's currently completely on the bottom of that slider which seems a worry to me. I can't see how you'd make the FD go down more for smaller chainrings. I looked on the Shimano site, and it says that the FD Top Gear Teeth is 46-53T. Maybe that means outer ring potential: www.shimano.com.au/content/bike/oceania/au/en/homepage/product-detail.P-FD-5801-F.html
It's definitely a braze-on. Good that it has a slider. I see Shimano now sells CX 46/36 rings, so thats probably the intention of the slider. Just adjust the height position of the FD lower until the center (front to rear) of the cage is (I think) 2mm above the teeth of the big ring. Might want to google if that 2mm is correct. Edit: Just read the rest of your comment. I'm sure it adjusts some more, or maybe its on upside-down? Don't worry. There is always a way to make these things work. Don't mess with it now since it's adjusted for your 50t ATM. When the rings come in and it's time to adjust and if you're having trouble, give me a comment and I can help.
Ebikes have actually been shown to be more efficient than the human body for transportation. They actually might be the most efficient form of land transportation that exists right now. The more efficient, the better. But the batteries must be manufactured and that is always a harmful process. The Luna Cycles Ebike kits are fantastic and can be had for about 1/3 of the price with the same capability as a Bosch system or something similar. I in fact had the system myself for a while but sold it to my Dad since I hardly used it and didn't need it. But it could produce 1,200 watts continuously, lol. Pedaling is almost useless.
Of course pedaling is best for fitness, but if some fatass refuses to do nothing but drive their car because they're too lazy to pedal, ebikes are the next best thing to pure bikes. I forget where, but there's a youtube video that documents a fat guy getting fit on an ebike and then he moved on to a pure bike. You still have to balance and turn and do some pedaling. People even get fit on motorcycles because of all the motor function involved just operating the bike and dealing with G forces.
Hi, I have a Sunrace 11-42 (11 speed ) cassette on my road bike with Shimano 105 R7000 GS RD. My LBS did not add any links to my chain when I upgraded the cassette from 11-28 to 11-42, and as such I cannot change into either 1st or 2nd gear when on the front big cog ( compact 50-34 ). I've been to several bike shops and they even tell me I can't add 1 or 2 links to my chain as it will come off when riding small/small. However, when riding big/big I don't want the chain and RD to lock up again like they did in a recent event. My chain is 54" and according to a chain link calculator I need 2 extra links to fit the 42t. However if following your advice in the video and fitting the chain to the 36t I should only need to add 1 link. If I can find someone to follow the method you show in the video, viz tweak the position of the RD the same way you have & no B screw, I'm guessing that should also work for an 11 42 cassette. I'm absolutely convinced it will work, especially after watching some of the videos for 11 - 46 cassettes on road bikes using the same RD. Your opinion would be appreciated. There's a couple of things you omit. What drive is on the bike? is it 1x, or 2x? Is it compact or something else? I just took my bike back to the LBS, showed him the video and he made some adjustments as per the video, although I do think he has adjusted the RD too much, it's more like parallel to the ground instead of in the same line as the road link. He added 1 link to give the bike a 55" chain, which chain length calculators say I need for 50/36 combo, BUT when in small/small there is no gap between the chain and it rubs when going through the top pulley wheel on the cage. So at the moment I can now ride big/big if necessary but small/small and small/13t is not an option because of the chain rubbing. Any suggestions?
Your gearing requires (42t - 11t) + (50t - 34t) = 47t of chain wrap. The R7000 GS RD's chain wrap is 39t, which is 8t less, so the chain tension when in the smallest few cogs and the small ring will be quite loose. It's fine, just don't shift there! It's always more efficient to be in the big ring and near the middle of the cassette as opposed to the little ring and the smallest cogs. Form good shifting habits. An improvement you can make is to change your 42 cassette to a 40 cassette. That will allow you to shift more reliably in the smaller cogs since you can run a shorter chain. Also, you'll like the smaller jumps from 24t - 40t cogs. And you save some grams too. But with either 42 or 40 cassettes, make sure your chain is as short as possible! The RD cage should allow the chain to almost be in a straight line when in big/big. The shorter the chain, the better shifting when in the small ring.
The chain was not in bad shape, it just had some surface rust. You can hear, it sounds fine. I could have restored it to be brand new and shiny if I wanted. But let me ask, why would a rusty chain be unsafe? Pedaling and it breaks? So? Chains break sometimes. It would be wasteful to toss a chain that works perfectly well. Why would switching to a 420% range be unsafe, under any circumstances?
The 10-42 requires a hub with an XD driver. So sadly, no, the 10-42 will not fit your 8-speed hub. Not without some skilled machining and possibly welding. It's as if Sram gets that emoji "XD" when they think about how much it pisses us off that we need to pay for an expensive hub AND adapter for their cassettes just to be able to use a stupid, loud, vibrating, and inefficient 10-tooth cog.
@@peelingpedaler3635 yea. after I commented this, I decided just to replace my cassette with another 8 speed with a different range instead of getting a 12-speed casset and spending tons of money on new shifters and derailer
Thanks for the video👍😀 Is that a 11 speed cassette? Do you use a Shimano (HGX?) Chain or a Sram (pcxx?) Chain? Are they interchangeable? I'm Planning a Sram 10-42 11 speed with my shimano Ultegra 6800 setup. 34/50 in front.🏁
All 11 speed chains are comptaible with all 11 speed chainrings and cassettes. If anyone tells you otherwise, they’re only trying to sell you something. That said, 50/34 x 11-42 is not a reliable and smooth setup, although it does work okay. It doesn’t shift well in the 11-13 cogs because of the extreme distances between the cogs and guide pulley. I would go with an 11-40 instead when using the 6800 RD.
@@peelingpedaler3635 Thanks for the advice! Now considering a OneUp Shark 10 tooth cluster (I happen to have DT Swiss wheels😁) with a Shimano 11-40. Would be nice with that 10 in some or another way👍😀
Thank you for posting!! I am using a Shimano M960 9 speed Rapid Rize der with Shimano dual control levers. on my 10 speed Microshift cassette {11 - 40 teeth}.. The top pulley just barely touches the 40 Tooth rear cog. Would like to use a 42 tooth, with maybe a 28 or 30 in the front only for a 1 X 10; with an 11-42 Microshift cassette.. Would that same model of the Wolf Tooth extender work for me OR would I need the "Goatlink" model? Thank you for any help on this matter.
Did you try shortening your chain as much as possible? Try shortening it 1 link below the recommended length, and your DR will be pulled away from the cassette just a bit and it might be all you need to clear the 40t safely. And then zip tie your cable housing to your skewer or frame in such a way to pull the chain closer to the cassette when it's under the littlest cogs. I couldn't tell you about the goatlink, I've never used it. From what I understand, it's for getting DRs to clear huge cogs, like 46t+. But the roadlink is supposed to be used with road DRs. It won't work for mtb DRs.
Michael, It doesn't matter how inexpensive a b screw is, it isn't a good solution. We're hacking the limit of the roadlink here. You're forgetting about shifting reliability. A b screw will pull the entire mech away from all cogs equally. This is BAD for shifting in the smallest few cogs. The only way to have reliable shifting when going above the recommended limits of Wolftooth is to tilt the roadlink back all the way, and shorten the chain as much as possible. This will cause the mech to pull away only in the largest cog when the offset of the guide pulley can utilized by the chain tension in that cog, as demonstrated in the video. Once setup like this, shifting works flawlessly in all cogs when going above Wolftooth's supported limits!
I got 1000s of miles out of this setup. No issues whatsoever, as stated in the video. And no, a rusty-looking chain is not necessarily more likely to break than a shiny chain.
Question im running on a deore 11-42t and deore Rear derailleur and 10spd sti. Its not shift all the way to the 42t. Do you think it will work i use a roadbike 10spd RD? Thanks a lot wish you can help me.
Depends. 1x setup? The r8000 has a bigger capacity than my 105 long cage, so it will work even better for 1x. For 2x, it could probably work, but I've never heard of anyone trying. Try it!
Hi mate, I just purchased that very same cassette to put on my Sram Red rear derailleur but somehow it didn't fit my standard hub. I just realise I need the XD Driver free-hub, am I right? I already run RoadLink and am already running 11-42 Shimano M8000 cassette and it works great. If I change my hub to XD Driver then I shouldn't need anything else. Am I right? THanks for the video.
Ah OK...thanks so much for your reply. I almost return my 10-42 because I thought I'm not supposed to use X1 cassette on road...thanks heaps! I can't find any other info on this but your video...so this has really been valuable! Thank you.
You are correct. Just make sure to get the correct XD driver for your specific hub. I would call and ask your hub manufacturer. It’s possible your hub may not be compatible but there may be an after market brand XD driver available.
No problem, I’m happy the vid is useful. Let me know how it shifts once you get it all working. Sram 22 rear derailleurs might behave differently than Shimano. If you have trouble with it, there is a road/cross derailluer designed for the 10-42 cassettes called Force 1 that has the same pull ratio as the 22 derailleurs.. It even has a clutch like a mtb derailleur.
Yeah the only reason why I purchased the 10-42 XG-1195 was the weight. It was something around 200-300gr mark while the Shimano M9000 is at 331gr and my current M8000 11-42 is at 412gr. The Force1 you just mentioned is also at 300gr+.
Yeah, the XX1 cassette is 268g while the XTR is 328g, only 50g different. XTR shifts better and has smaller jumps. Might wear faster because if the Ti. The long cage Force 1 is actually around 285g. Don’t forget the weight of your road link! You can delete the left shifter paddle to save a few grams if you’re running 1x. 10-42 might be too wide with a 2x setup.
There are people running the r8000 RD with 40t cassettes. Not sure about 42t. But It's possible to get a 32t max RD (105 for example) to run a 36t w/o the roadlink. And the r8000 is designed for a 36t out of the box. So adding 6 teeth to it might be possible. Idk if the roadlink would work with the r8000 very well. It might be TOO far away from the cassette, in any cogs really especially the littlest ones. I'd say screw the 42 and stick to a 40t and ditch the roadlink. You'll have tighter climbing jumps and you're only losing 2t. Get out of the saddle in the 40t a little more often and enjoy those slightly tighter jumps and better shifting. But if you already have the stuff, you can buy a $15 test chain from Amazon, try it out and let us know how it goes!
yea i have everything, i have 105 5800 shifters, ultegra r8000 brakes, crank, and rear d. with pg1130 sram 11-42 cassette on 50mm carbon wheels, shaved off all cable stops going internal on giant defy 5 ! i have a channel i'll keep you posted! very soon
Peeling Pedaler I’m in the middle of laying carbon fiber fabric on the giant Defy 5 aluminum frame and cutting holes for internal cables I have the cable stops for them!!!! You can check me out on Facebook or hang on for the full video thanks for the help I’m giving everyone a shoutout on everyone who helped with questions of mine!!!! Thanks
This is great stuff. I've got a road bike, 50/34T front, 11-32T back, Shimano 105 5800 medium-cage deraileur. I would like some mountain bike gears for touring. Have you heard of the tanpan? Wolf Tooth says that with a tanpan you can have 11-45T for double chainring and 11-49T for single chainring. They say you put on a mountain bike RD, and that the tanpan allows the mountain bike RD to work with the road STI shifters. Have you heard of this? Is it too good to be true?
I haven’t tried the Tanpan but I’ve tried the J-Tek Shiftmate 11 road to mtb converter. It was absolutely aweful. The cable would slip when shifting at the extreme ends of the cassette. It did this no matter how it was adjusted or setup. Do try the Tanpan and let us know how it works!
If I were you, I would just go with the Roadlink for starters. When set up properly, it shifts great, and it would be much lighter than the Tanpan set up, since road derailleurs are generally simpler and lighter (no clutch, smaller springs etc). You are limited to a 34x40 ratio with the Roadlink though. the 42t and bigger cassettes don't shift well with a 2x setup. But if you do want super low gears, like a 34x50+, Tanpan is one possible way to go. There is also aftermarket wireless electronic shifting, the best one available being XShifter. You could pair a 50/34 with an 11-50 (OneUp or Wolftooth) and use the proper derailleur and have excellent shifting. This is also the lightest possible way to go. the XShifter remotes are super lightweight, as are the shifting units. And you can use aftermarket singlespeed brake levers (like the Sram S500) to save like half a pound at the bars compared to the heavy 105 levers. Climbing is more fun when your bike is (and hopefully you are) super light. Zero maintenance besides charging the shifter batteries every few weeks or so. Only $400 for 2x.
Unfortunately I'm neither light nor strong, I've been disabled with severe chronic pain for the last 15 years so am not only overweight, but got fairly weak muscles. This is part of the reason I need small gears, combined with the fact that I want to use this bike for on/off-road bikepacking. I need touring gears for a heavy weak rider. I used to race in the 80s and 90s so was once very fit fast and strong, however I haven't used my body at all since that time. Although most of my miles will be on-road, I want to have the gears to tackle steep off-road climbs when they come up, and I have to account for the load in that too. I'd really like to have some pretty small gears. One thing I though I could do to start the process off is replace my 50/34 chainrings for a 46/30. I found this cheap option on ebay which takes 110 BCD which I have: www.ebay.com/itm/46T-30T-BCD110-DOVAL-MicroGT-Chainring-for-4-arm-Shimano-Etc/263669158367?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44040%26meid%3D04806dd0f0db4b1db94ab7acbba24fd9%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D263658084822%26itm%3D263669158367&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850 to be continued...
I hear you on easy gears. Even if one IS strong and light, having easy gears is awesome for recovery, especially if you live at the top of a hill. Also a great way to improve balance - spin in a super easy gear up a steep hill. And it's awesome to be able to take your bike up any hill or haul any weight you want. Holy crap, that 30/46 conversion is quite a find!! FSA makes their own 30/46 crankset, but that's like $400 alone. Had no idea 30t could be mounted to 110 BCD! Go with that for sure! Then pair that with an 11-40t and you have a 75% under-drive. You might want even lower though. My old touring bike came with a 26x32, a little higher than 30x40. I swapped the 26 for a 22 and liked it a lot more, especially hauling groceries. Never needed to get out of the saddle. 22x32 is 68%, so you might want to pair the 30/46 with a Tanpan shifted 11-46 to get 30x46. Thats 65%. Pretty low. My ultimate build I'm saving for is di2 Ultegra shifters paired with XTR 3x11 di2 drivetrain, Smallest ratio? 22x40! 55%! Expensive though. The whole setup would be over $2k. If you have money, this is THE way to go for low gears. The syncroshift takes care of the 3x madness. It operates like a 1x.
This guy in the link at the bottom demonstrates the running of a 2x/11 - 42t using a Roadlink. He says in the comments that it's a 10-speed and that he had his bike shop set it up for him. After seeing how this guy has it running, do you like it? th-cam.com/video/RzXAw73oCW4/w-d-xo.html
Demonstrating on a bike stand is different than experiencing it on the road. Because the bog cog is bigger, the derailleur must be positioned further from the axle, further from all cogs, as it is not smart enough to be adjustable for each cog. So the real trouble is shifting in the smallest few cogs when the derailleur is so far away from the axle. With 2x, the tension the chain experiences varies depending on which cog you're in, so it adds more to the difficulty of getting everything adjusted right. And tilting the roadlink back will help, but I'm not sure if it would help enough for shifting to not be annoying. All I can say is try it out! It's not too expensive to buy a cassette and sell it if it doesn't work.
I did hear others also mentioning things can be different under load than in the bike stand, that's something I must remember. I'll have to ruminate on it all. When thinking about the off-road parts of my bikepacking adventures, that's when I start thinking about the tanpan. But just for the road I don't look past the Roadlink. Thanks for all that! Could I by any chance grab your PayPal identity as I'd like to donate to your channel. I haven't used PayPal in a while so just forget, but I think the PayPal name might be what I need...
You don't have to donate to me, lol. Just remember to give back to the community by making videos documenting your discoveries. It would actually help to see how those rings you're getting end up working!
Lol that would be nice but my mobile with camera isn't connected to the internet, I live real basic when it comes to tech, it all does my head in to be honest. I still use a paper address book instead of my phone address book, how about that?! What I can do instead though is blow kisses to every person I ride past on my converted bike. I think THAT would be really giving back. If you won't let me donate, then that's what I'll do instead. But nah it's quality time talking to you, I've got a heap of value out of your expertise, no mucking about. You could market that bike brain of yours if you wanted to :) Thanks again.
Doesn't have to be in video form, but share it with your fellow riders in person, who need guidance on easy gearing, for example. Just ride your bike as much as possible. Sell your car if you can, and get a nice e-bike and trailer for errands. Luna Cycle has pretty great and powerful DIY kits that are very affordable. I own one myself and it gets up the big hill I live on 3x faster than I can cycle, and thats with the 100 pounds of groceries. Idk about Australia, but in USA, we have many car rental companies, and Uber, and trains and planes. No reason to have a car these days, at least here. As DR says, burn fat, not oil!
For me, it’s a bombing downhill gear, so any inefficiency isn’t really a concern. And after all, it’s a mountain bike cassette. There’s going to already be a lot of vibration happening anyway from riding the trails these cassettes are designed for. Lastly, have you heard of 9 tooth cogs now?
Finally, the exact video I was looking for! Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
I tried setting up my bike with a 10-40 cassette with a 9 speed shifter, it did not work properly. After adding the Wolfe tooth, shortening the chain, pulling the B screw, it works really well. Thanks for the video - bang on...
It can’t be a 9 speed shifter with 11 speed deraillier.
I used a 9 gear cassette, 9 speed shifter, 9 speed derailer it did not shift properly till I added the Wolfe tooth. All good...
Did a similar setup on my bike and still wondering why shimano says max cog for r7000 gs is 34t...but we all know it can go way bigger lol. Great vid man
Shimano has a very high standard for shifting performance. Although larger than 34t works well enough, there is a noticable difference between using a 34 cassette and 40, for example. Thanks for watching!
@@peelingpedaler3635 I'm most likely gonna go with your 42t recommendations with my specialized sequoia since it only has a 36t currently but need more
Love it. I want one now
Hey man my current set up is 11-36 cassette with 46/30 absolute black chainrings on a Sram Rival 11spd groupset. How do I get an 11-42 cassette to work on my bike? and will a 11-42 cassette work with my 46/30 chainrings?
I think I just need to buy the 11-42 cassette and the Wolfe tooth road link, but correct me and tell me exactly what I need. Thank you
I have 2x11(36/26 x 11-40) with the RoadLink. Lots of good advice here, thank you for that. I will to try to get my shifting even better (it's ok now). I think the main help will be getting my chain as short as possible in big/big.
One question: Isn't rotating the RoadLink backwards the same as tightening the B screw ? Seems the effect would be the same.
Its not exactly the same. There are four combos to consider. Ymmv:
1. roadlink normal + b screw in: guide pulley too far from smallest cogs. Poor shifting.
2. roadlink normal + no B screw: Cannot clear biggest cogs.
3. roadlink back + b screw in. Guide pulley too far from all cogs. Poor shifting.
4. roadlink back + no B screw. Guide pulley can clear large cogs and get close enough to small cogs. Good shifting.
Pushing in b screw causes guide pulley to get further from cogs while tilting roadlink back actually causes guide pulley to get closer to small cogs.
Those are some pretty low gears you have there. Are you running that on a road bike? If so, don’t you wish you had a bit more high gears so when you’re riding on the flats, you can shift to hard gears, stand out of the saddle and pedal to get flow back to the sitbones?
I’m done hacking my way to get what I want (well sort of) and I’m saving for GRX di2. But I have to hack it with 46/24 chainrings from White Industries or Rene Herse. Di2’s synchro shift will make it feel like a super wide range 1x and the 46t big ring will allow me to cruise on flats near the middle of the cassette where jumps are closest for greatest comfort, efficiency, reliability etc. It will be the widest 2x11 derailleur drivetrain ever.
@@peelingpedaler3635 Your next drivetrain sounds incredible - please post it when finished.
My gearing is on a roadbike. I like to climb big hills and I weigh around 225lbs( of solid muscle 🙄). I am able to pedal on the flats or downhills up to 25- 28 mph in 36/11 and I can easily stand and pedal when needed so I am ok with my high gear. On downhills gravity takes over anyway and I am usually out in front of any group I ride with because of my weight. Obviously it's a different story going up, but I am so happy to spin rather than grind up those big hills.
I like the small difference in the chainrings which I find useful when I want to moderately change my cadence without shifting a couple of cogs in the back. No big deal, just kinda cool to switch it up a bit shifting wise.
Hello hello. I'm just confirming those ebay 46/30 chainrings before I order them for compatibility with my cranks. In the description it says those chainrings don't go with hidden bolt type cranks. I think I've got the right answer, hidden bolt type cranks means there is one bolt 'hidden' behind one of the crank arms, right? If that's so, then my cranks are NOT hidden bolt cranks and I'm good to order.
Hidden-bolt is a Sram product, nothing to worry about since you have Shimano 105, right? Just make sure you get the rings meant for Shimano 4-arm spiders.
Believe it or not my bike uses Shimano 105 everywhere else but cranks. Cheaped out on the cranks and instead used Shimano FC-RS510 crankset. Well they can do that as the price was right.
Yep I've confirmed the 46/30 is 4-arm asymmetrical just like mine. Wicked stuff my friend, I"m ordering those mfs right now. Thank you!
Never even knew this crankset existed! The funny thing is that you've pretty much done 100% of your own work and research so far. I'm excited to hear how these rings work for you. Make sure you cut 2 links from your chain (4 teeth worth) to compensate for the smaller big-big combo. You'll need to lower your FD too. Does your bike have a circular seat tube with a band clamp? Or is it a braze-on?
I'm finding it hard to tell if band clamp or braze-on. I can see with the Shimano website that this FD does come in either band clamp or braze-on.
My seat tube is like a D-shape, similar to the shape of the D-fuse seatpost but a bit rounder. There are two screws driven into the seat tube which holds a plastic attachment, which the FD is bolted to. That bolt is on a small slider that seems to make the FD slide up or down a little, however it's currently completely on the bottom of that slider which seems a worry to me. I can't see how you'd make the FD go down more for smaller chainrings.
I looked on the Shimano site, and it says that the FD Top Gear Teeth is 46-53T. Maybe that means outer ring potential: www.shimano.com.au/content/bike/oceania/au/en/homepage/product-detail.P-FD-5801-F.html
It's definitely a braze-on. Good that it has a slider. I see Shimano now sells CX 46/36 rings, so thats probably the intention of the slider. Just adjust the height position of the FD lower until the center (front to rear) of the cage is (I think) 2mm above the teeth of the big ring. Might want to google if that 2mm is correct.
Edit: Just read the rest of your comment. I'm sure it adjusts some more, or maybe its on upside-down? Don't worry. There is always a way to make these things work. Don't mess with it now since it's adjusted for your 50t ATM. When the rings come in and it's time to adjust and if you're having trouble, give me a comment and I can help.
proper climbing gears 👍
Climbing gears, or grocery hauling gears, or recovery gears, or little/young people's gears, or elderly people's gears. Let's get everyone on a bike!
Manufacturers would prefer to sell you an E-bike though, at a nice price! ka-ching!!! $$$$$$$$$ 😉
Ebikes have actually been shown to be more efficient than the human body for transportation. They actually might be the most efficient form of land transportation that exists right now. The more efficient, the better. But the batteries must be manufactured and that is always a harmful process.
The Luna Cycles Ebike kits are fantastic and can be had for about 1/3 of the price with the same capability as a Bosch system or something similar. I in fact had the system myself for a while but sold it to my Dad since I hardly used it and didn't need it. But it could produce 1,200 watts continuously, lol. Pedaling is almost useless.
Bikes make people fit and healthy, Ebikes will just keep em fat and unhealthy. Surely you would support peddle power over Ebikes?
Of course pedaling is best for fitness, but if some fatass refuses to do nothing but drive their car because they're too lazy to pedal, ebikes are the next best thing to pure bikes. I forget where, but there's a youtube video that documents a fat guy getting fit on an ebike and then he moved on to a pure bike. You still have to balance and turn and do some pedaling. People even get fit on motorcycles because of all the motor function involved just operating the bike and dealing with G forces.
Hi.what is the name of the gear calculator app the you were using in the video?.thank you
www.gear-calculator.com/
Hi, I have a Sunrace 11-42 (11 speed ) cassette on my road bike with Shimano 105 R7000 GS RD. My LBS did not add any links to my chain when I upgraded the cassette from 11-28 to 11-42, and as such I cannot change into either 1st or 2nd gear when on the front big cog ( compact 50-34 ). I've been to several bike shops and they even tell me I can't add 1 or 2 links to my chain as it will come off when riding small/small. However, when riding big/big I don't want the chain and RD to lock up again like they did in a recent event. My chain is 54" and according to a chain link calculator I need 2 extra links to fit the 42t. However if following your advice in the video and fitting the chain to the 36t I should only need to add 1 link. If I can find someone to follow the method you show in the video, viz tweak the position of the RD the same way you have & no B screw, I'm guessing that should also work for an 11 42 cassette. I'm absolutely convinced it will work, especially after watching some of the videos for 11 - 46 cassettes on road bikes using the same RD. Your opinion would be appreciated. There's a couple of things you omit. What drive is on the bike? is it 1x, or 2x? Is it compact or something else? I just took my bike back to the LBS, showed him the video and he made some adjustments as per the video, although I do think he has adjusted the RD too much, it's more like parallel to the ground instead of in the same line as the road link. He added 1 link to give the bike a 55" chain, which chain length calculators say I need for 50/36 combo, BUT when in small/small there is no gap between the chain and it rubs when going through the top pulley wheel on the cage. So at the moment I can now ride big/big if necessary but small/small and small/13t is not an option because of the chain rubbing. Any suggestions?
Your gearing requires (42t - 11t) + (50t - 34t) = 47t of chain wrap. The R7000 GS RD's chain wrap is 39t, which is 8t less, so the chain tension when in the smallest few cogs and the small ring will be quite loose. It's fine, just don't shift there! It's always more efficient to be in the big ring and near the middle of the cassette as opposed to the little ring and the smallest cogs. Form good shifting habits. An improvement you can make is to change your 42 cassette to a 40 cassette. That will allow you to shift more reliably in the smaller cogs since you can run a shorter chain. Also, you'll like the smaller jumps from 24t - 40t cogs. And you save some grams too. But with either 42 or 40 cassettes, make sure your chain is as short as possible! The RD cage should allow the chain to almost be in a straight line when in big/big. The shorter the chain, the better shifting when in the small ring.
actually, looking at the rusty chain on the bike. I am not sure your advice to switch to gain a 420% is safe for long term use
The chain was not in bad shape, it just had some surface rust. You can hear, it sounds fine. I could have restored it to be brand new and shiny if I wanted. But let me ask, why would a rusty chain be unsafe? Pedaling and it breaks? So? Chains break sometimes. It would be wasteful to toss a chain that works perfectly well. Why would switching to a 420% range be unsafe, under any circumstances?
I am considering a 3X10 setup on my Ghost Kato, can an 8-speed hub fit the cassette you have on your bike? Thanks and keep on going at it!
The 10-42 requires a hub with an XD driver. So sadly, no, the 10-42 will not fit your 8-speed hub. Not without some skilled machining and possibly welding.
It's as if Sram gets that emoji "XD" when they think about how much it pisses us off that we need to pay for an expensive hub AND adapter for their cassettes just to be able to use a stupid, loud, vibrating, and inefficient 10-tooth cog.
@@peelingpedaler3635 yea. after I commented this, I decided just to replace my cassette with another 8 speed with a different range instead of getting a 12-speed casset and spending tons of money on new shifters and derailer
Thanks for the video👍😀 Is that a 11 speed cassette? Do you use a Shimano (HGX?) Chain or a Sram (pcxx?) Chain? Are they interchangeable? I'm Planning a Sram 10-42 11 speed with my shimano Ultegra 6800 setup. 34/50 in front.🏁
All 11 speed chains are comptaible with all 11 speed chainrings and cassettes. If anyone tells you otherwise, they’re only trying to sell you something. That said, 50/34 x 11-42 is not a reliable and smooth setup, although it does work okay. It doesn’t shift well in the 11-13 cogs because of the extreme distances between the cogs and guide pulley. I would go with an 11-40 instead when using the 6800 RD.
And you’ll need a longer than normal chain, as well as the Wolftooth Roadlink. And you might need an extended length B screw.
@@peelingpedaler3635 Thanks for the advice! Now considering a OneUp Shark 10 tooth cluster (I happen to have DT Swiss wheels😁) with a Shimano 11-40. Would be nice with that 10 in some or another way👍😀
What website is that you used for the gearing
www.gear-calculator.com/
I have 3x10speed system on my mtb with 11-36t. I wanna upgrade it with 11-42t. Will it work with my xt m781 rd?
Thank you for posting!! I am using a Shimano M960 9 speed Rapid Rize der with Shimano dual control levers. on my 10 speed Microshift cassette {11 - 40 teeth}.. The top pulley just barely touches the 40 Tooth rear cog. Would like to use a 42 tooth, with maybe a 28 or 30 in the front only for a 1 X 10; with an 11-42 Microshift cassette.. Would that same model of the Wolf Tooth extender work for me OR would I need the "Goatlink" model? Thank you for any help on this matter.
Did you try shortening your chain as much as possible? Try shortening it 1 link below the recommended length, and your DR will be pulled away from the cassette just a bit and it might be all you need to clear the 40t safely. And then zip tie your cable housing to your skewer or frame in such a way to pull the chain closer to the cassette when it's under the littlest cogs.
I couldn't tell you about the goatlink, I've never used it. From what I understand, it's for getting DRs to clear huge cogs, like 46t+. But the roadlink is supposed to be used with road DRs. It won't work for mtb DRs.
Awesome!! Thank you so much! I don't have the 42 tooth cassette yet so we shall see.
Wolftooth make a 25mm B screw for one dollar.
Michael, It doesn't matter how inexpensive a b screw is, it isn't a good solution. We're hacking the limit of the roadlink here. You're forgetting about shifting reliability. A b screw will pull the entire mech away from all cogs equally. This is BAD for shifting in the smallest few cogs. The only way to have reliable shifting when going above the recommended limits of Wolftooth is to tilt the roadlink back all the way, and shorten the chain as much as possible. This will cause the mech to pull away only in the largest cog when the offset of the guide pulley can utilized by the chain tension in that cog, as demonstrated in the video. Once setup like this, shifting works flawlessly in all cogs when going above Wolftooth's supported limits!
Would you recommend this for a bike that does a lot of hill ascents? So lots of chain tension going uphill
I got 1000s of miles out of this setup. No issues whatsoever, as stated in the video. And no, a rusty-looking chain is not necessarily more likely to break than a shiny chain.
Question im running on a deore 11-42t and deore Rear derailleur and 10spd sti. Its not shift all the way to the 42t. Do you think it will work i use a roadbike 10spd RD? Thanks a lot wish you can help me.
No. 10spd RD and 11spd cassette is incompatible. You should get 11spd shifters. Or, you can run a 10spd RD with a 10spd cassette.
can i used shimano 105 r7000 to 34x11-46? without goatlink?
Definitely not. And, you'd need a roadlink, not a goatlink.
What front chainring sizes are you using on this bike brother?
36t NW single ring.
Are there compatibility limits between a Sram 10-42 cassette and a Ultegra rear derailleur?
Depends. 1x setup? The r8000 has a bigger capacity than my 105 long cage, so it will work even better for 1x. For 2x, it could probably work, but I've never heard of anyone trying. Try it!
I was talking about shifting ratios, the Sram cassette and the Shimano ones have the same space between the sprocket?
Cog spacing is identical on all brands.
Hi mate, I just purchased that very same cassette to put on my Sram Red rear derailleur but somehow it didn't fit my standard hub. I just realise I need the XD Driver free-hub, am I right? I already run RoadLink and am already running 11-42 Shimano M8000 cassette and it works great. If I change my hub to XD Driver then I shouldn't need anything else. Am I right? THanks for the video.
Ah OK...thanks so much for your reply. I almost return my 10-42 because I thought I'm not supposed to use X1 cassette on road...thanks heaps! I can't find any other info on this but your video...so this has really been valuable! Thank you.
You are correct. Just make sure to get the correct XD driver for your specific hub. I would call and ask your hub manufacturer. It’s possible your hub may not be compatible but there may be an after market brand XD driver available.
No problem, I’m happy the vid is useful. Let me know how it shifts once you get it all working. Sram 22 rear derailleurs might behave differently than Shimano. If you have trouble with it, there is a road/cross derailluer designed for the 10-42 cassettes called Force 1 that has the same pull ratio as the 22 derailleurs.. It even has a clutch like a mtb derailleur.
Yeah the only reason why I purchased the 10-42 XG-1195 was the weight. It was something around 200-300gr mark while the Shimano M9000 is at 331gr and my current M8000 11-42 is at 412gr. The Force1 you just mentioned is also at 300gr+.
Yeah, the XX1 cassette is 268g while the XTR is 328g, only 50g different. XTR shifts better and has smaller jumps. Might wear faster because if the Ti. The long cage Force 1 is actually around 285g. Don’t forget the weight of your road link! You can delete the left shifter paddle to save a few grams if you’re running 1x. 10-42 might be too wide with a 2x setup.
If you fart while shifting on a climb you'll rip that RD clean off!!! But I like it!!!
Was a spacer needed to install the 42?
I don’t remember. Try a spacer and if you cannot get the lock ring to thread on, then try again without the spacer.
@@peelingpedaler3635 Thx.
I have a sram 11-42 you think my r8000 rear derailleur will work
There are people running the r8000 RD with 40t cassettes. Not sure about 42t. But It's possible to get a 32t max RD (105 for example) to run a 36t w/o the roadlink. And the r8000 is designed for a 36t out of the box. So adding 6 teeth to it might be possible. Idk if the roadlink would work with the r8000 very well. It might be TOO far away from the cassette, in any cogs really especially the littlest ones. I'd say screw the 42 and stick to a 40t and ditch the roadlink. You'll have tighter climbing jumps and you're only losing 2t. Get out of the saddle in the 40t a little more often and enjoy those slightly tighter jumps and better shifting. But if you already have the stuff, you can buy a $15 test chain from Amazon, try it out and let us know how it goes!
yea i have everything, i have 105 5800 shifters, ultegra r8000 brakes, crank, and rear d. with pg1130 sram 11-42 cassette on 50mm carbon wheels, shaved off all cable stops going internal on giant defy 5 ! i have a channel i'll keep you posted! very soon
Any updates?
Peeling Pedaler I’m in the middle of laying carbon fiber fabric on the giant Defy 5 aluminum frame and cutting holes for internal cables I have the cable stops for them!!!! You can check me out on Facebook or hang on for the full video thanks for the help I’m giving everyone a shoutout on everyone who helped with questions of mine!!!! Thanks
would be perfect with slx
This is great stuff. I've got a road bike, 50/34T front, 11-32T back, Shimano 105 5800 medium-cage deraileur.
I would like some mountain bike gears for touring. Have you heard of the tanpan? Wolf Tooth says that with a tanpan you can have 11-45T for double chainring and 11-49T for single chainring. They say you put on a mountain bike RD, and that the tanpan allows the mountain bike RD to work with the road STI shifters.
Have you heard of this? Is it too good to be true?
I haven’t tried the Tanpan but I’ve tried the J-Tek Shiftmate 11 road to mtb converter. It was absolutely aweful. The cable would slip when shifting at the extreme ends of the cassette. It did this no matter how it was adjusted or setup. Do try the Tanpan and let us know how it works!
Yes I do believe I will go with the tanpan. I'll let you know how it goes. This video is the best Roadlink video.
If I were you, I would just go with the Roadlink for starters. When set up properly, it shifts great, and it would be much lighter than the Tanpan set up, since road derailleurs are generally simpler and lighter (no clutch, smaller springs etc). You are limited to a 34x40 ratio with the Roadlink though. the 42t and bigger cassettes don't shift well with a 2x setup. But if you do want super low gears, like a 34x50+, Tanpan is one possible way to go. There is also aftermarket wireless electronic shifting, the best one available being XShifter. You could pair a 50/34 with an 11-50 (OneUp or Wolftooth) and use the proper derailleur and have excellent shifting. This is also the lightest possible way to go. the XShifter remotes are super lightweight, as are the shifting units. And you can use aftermarket singlespeed brake levers (like the Sram S500) to save like half a pound at the bars compared to the heavy 105 levers. Climbing is more fun when your bike is (and hopefully you are) super light. Zero maintenance besides charging the shifter batteries every few weeks or so. Only $400 for 2x.
Unfortunately I'm neither light nor strong, I've been disabled with severe chronic pain for the last 15 years so am not only overweight, but got fairly weak muscles. This is part of the reason I need small gears, combined with the fact that I want to use this bike for on/off-road bikepacking. I need touring gears for a heavy weak rider. I used to race in the 80s and 90s so was once very fit fast and strong, however I haven't used my body at all since that time. Although most of my miles will be on-road, I want to have the gears to tackle steep off-road climbs when they come up, and I have to account for the load in that too. I'd really like to have some pretty small gears.
One thing I though I could do to start the process off is replace my 50/34 chainrings for a 46/30. I found this cheap option on ebay which takes 110 BCD which I have: www.ebay.com/itm/46T-30T-BCD110-DOVAL-MicroGT-Chainring-for-4-arm-Shimano-Etc/263669158367?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44040%26meid%3D04806dd0f0db4b1db94ab7acbba24fd9%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D263658084822%26itm%3D263669158367&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850
to be continued...
I hear you on easy gears. Even if one IS strong and light, having easy gears is awesome for recovery, especially if you live at the top of a hill. Also a great way to improve balance - spin in a super easy gear up a steep hill. And it's awesome to be able to take your bike up any hill or haul any weight you want.
Holy crap, that 30/46 conversion is quite a find!! FSA makes their own 30/46 crankset, but that's like $400 alone. Had no idea 30t could be mounted to 110 BCD! Go with that for sure! Then pair that with an 11-40t and you have a 75% under-drive. You might want even lower though. My old touring bike came with a 26x32, a little higher than 30x40. I swapped the 26 for a 22 and liked it a lot more, especially hauling groceries. Never needed to get out of the saddle. 22x32 is 68%, so you might want to pair the 30/46 with a Tanpan shifted 11-46 to get 30x46. Thats 65%. Pretty low.
My ultimate build I'm saving for is di2 Ultegra shifters paired with XTR 3x11 di2 drivetrain, Smallest ratio? 22x40! 55%! Expensive though. The whole setup would be over $2k. If you have money, this is THE way to go for low gears. The syncroshift takes care of the 3x madness. It operates like a 1x.
This guy in the link at the bottom demonstrates the running of a 2x/11 - 42t using a Roadlink. He says in the comments that it's a 10-speed and that he had his bike shop set it up for him. After seeing how this guy has it running, do you like it?
th-cam.com/video/RzXAw73oCW4/w-d-xo.html
Demonstrating on a bike stand is different than experiencing it on the road. Because the bog cog is bigger, the derailleur must be positioned further from the axle, further from all cogs, as it is not smart enough to be adjustable for each cog. So the real trouble is shifting in the smallest few cogs when the derailleur is so far away from the axle. With 2x, the tension the chain experiences varies depending on which cog you're in, so it adds more to the difficulty of getting everything adjusted right. And tilting the roadlink back will help, but I'm not sure if it would help enough for shifting to not be annoying. All I can say is try it out! It's not too expensive to buy a cassette and sell it if it doesn't work.
I did hear others also mentioning things can be different under load than in the bike stand, that's something I must remember. I'll have to ruminate on it all. When thinking about the off-road parts of my bikepacking adventures, that's when I start thinking about the tanpan. But just for the road I don't look past the Roadlink.
Thanks for all that! Could I by any chance grab your PayPal identity as I'd like to donate to your channel. I haven't used PayPal in a while so just forget, but I think the PayPal name might be what I need...
You don't have to donate to me, lol. Just remember to give back to the community by making videos documenting your discoveries. It would actually help to see how those rings you're getting end up working!
Lol that would be nice but my mobile with camera isn't connected to the internet, I live real basic when it comes to tech, it all does my head in to be honest. I still use a paper address book instead of my phone address book, how about that?!
What I can do instead though is blow kisses to every person I ride past on my converted bike. I think THAT would be really giving back. If you won't let me donate, then that's what I'll do instead. But nah it's quality time talking to you, I've got a heap of value out of your expertise, no mucking about. You could market that bike brain of yours if you wanted to :) Thanks again.
Doesn't have to be in video form, but share it with your fellow riders in person, who need guidance on easy gearing, for example. Just ride your bike as much as possible. Sell your car if you can, and get a nice e-bike and trailer for errands. Luna Cycle has pretty great and powerful DIY kits that are very affordable. I own one myself and it gets up the big hill I live on 3x faster than I can cycle, and thats with the 100 pounds of groceries. Idk about Australia, but in USA, we have many car rental companies, and Uber, and trains and planes. No reason to have a car these days, at least here. As DR says, burn fat, not oil!
This isnt really good 10 teeth will cause so much vibration
For me, it’s a bombing downhill gear, so any inefficiency isn’t really a concern. And after all, it’s a mountain bike cassette. There’s going to already be a lot of vibration happening anyway from riding the trails these cassettes are designed for. Lastly, have you heard of 9 tooth cogs now?