No problem with having another fine tune option. We started putting then on our house chassis back in mid 90s. As one of the drivers i can tell you it helped when tracks really slicked over. Not too much on red clay or sand but on gumbo and riverbottom dirts it really helped.
@@DIRTRACELIFE that little over steer you had that 1st pratice night is when you had it almost perfect. That makes running mid to hight easy there. Then just drag it in if you want to run low.
When I made mine, I welded a swivel on a 7” long 3/4 all thread with a nut welded to the chassis and on the end of the all thread (with a jam nut of course). That way you can adjust it like a screw jack on the fly
I would recommend tacking a washer on the inside of the frame and welding a good solid thick washer on the outside where your chain attaches to the frame, you would be surprised at how that 5/16th bolt can bend that lower edge of the hole out, especially on a rough track. Washers will save the frame hole from getting hogged out and you can replace them if the washers get tweaked.
I know a lot of folks are doing it but I don’t want ANYTHING topping out or bottoming out! I can see having the mounts and chain available for going to different tracks as a “crutch” for say when you rolling way too hard on rr and toting lf really bad or one on lr for a rough track when your bottoming rf real bad but I don’t want to use it as a regular adjustment. Just me maybe I’m wrong. Good luck at Whynot bud!
I REALLY struggled to get my head wrapped around how thus is better. Literally had to stumble my way into getting this chain system working. But geez David.. yeah it's faster, I was very skeptical at one point but in the car its crazy how much different it makes the car act. I know I'm not the right one to prove it with my results but this is what the leaders are doing. Even in classes that don't allow chains, guys are moving mounts to make shocks top out to force load transfers. It's crazy what this has become but there's really an advantage in it. . .
Gotta be careful with that chain! It's a really useful adjustment, but keep those adjustments small. If you shorten it too much, it'll drive that left rear too much. I've seen a 1/4" chain take the car from rotating good to toting the left front all the way around the track. Car looked really good in that hot lap session though! Good luck at Whynot!
Thanks man, I am hoping we'd night in practice to be able to run, tighten, run, tighten to figure out exactly where it needs to be for full slick versus hooked up.
Agreed. The LF chain can tighten or loosen the car... and it doesnt take much. It all depends on the setup, track conditions and driver input... If you have room, try using a stiff roller cam spring to act as a buffer to reduce the shock when the chain becomes tight... or a small biscuit. LR droop will determine the amount of mechanical drive is in the car. Left side chain adjustments can be fun when it's right. 😊 Not sure what your rules are.
I haven't adjusted it much and have very few laps so far. We are headed to the Street Stock Nationals Wed and will be running every night so hoping to get plenty of experience to give some feedback.
Don’t use regular heat shrink it’s slather 🍑! Use flexible woven FABRIC heat shrink. I use 3:1. It’s far more clean and professional looking and fairly cheap. A foot long piece wide enough fit any chain is less then $5. It’s more flexible then standard heat shrink and let’s the chain work more naturally.
The chain drastically effects body roll and transfer to the RR but the effects on me mechanical leverage that your talking about effects the LR far more then RR at least on a 4 bar. It’s increased more as that transfer is pushed from the RR over to the LR of your sprung right and more so on a bar car as the RR birdcage indexes into the spring. Your upper trailing arm angles, drive angle and even anti dive will also significantly effect how that weight transfer is distributed.
I just refreshed this one and it's sure acting perfect so I am hoping to not have issues with her. But I won't complain if he had it in his truck just incase 😉 hopefully never will get unloaded!
The left front chain has almost nothing to do with the rr wheel weight. If the right front has a solid rod in it for a spring and the chassis has infinite torsional stiffness, the rr wheel weight will increase by exactly 0 lbs. You should look into roll rate distribution. Left front chain gets tight, ALL of the weight on the left side of the car is on the left rear. That’s what it does. When you want all of the wedge, make sure the chain is tight.
I know you built that car you said it was a big GM and you're using Nova or Chevelle lowers is that like a 76 Monte Big frame or is it early or mid 80s Caprice or Impala frame I have the big GM that's early 80s mid-80s Caprice or Impala now I was just wondering if what the advantage to using a Nova or a Chevelle lower is but just curious buddy thanks
I sure misspoke there and didn't catch it. This car is a 73 Montecarlo and those lowers are the 73-77 Montecarlo's which are the same as gen 2 camaros. The spring pocket location on these and the novas are both creating a 30% spring ratio (example a 1000lb spring is seen by the car as 300lbs). The stock metrics are 23% and a lot of folks are switching those out with novas because it moves you to a 30% and it widens the front track by an inch on each side.
I appreciate the comment but the type springs and shocks I am running do not work without them. Its a package deal for how this car is built and the type cars in the class. On my factory stock Camaro for example I do not use any tethers.
No problem with having another fine tune option.
We started putting then on our house chassis back in mid 90s.
As one of the drivers i can tell you it helped when tracks really slicked over. Not too much on red clay or sand but on gumbo and riverbottom dirts it really helped.
I am still learning it but I don't feel like it did much for me on that clay last weekend.
@@DIRTRACELIFE naw I got a few top 10s there the first few years. You need all the right rear you can get then just adjust left rear bite to come off.
@@DIRTRACELIFE most all the deep south tracks are right rear dominant tracks. Southeast and Midwest tracks were always more left rear tracks.
@@DIRTRACELIFE that little over steer you had that 1st pratice night is when you had it almost perfect. That makes running mid to hight easy there. Then just drag it in if you want to run low.
Motor sounds great
Thanks Ryan, we tryin
When I made mine, I welded a swivel on a 7” long 3/4 all thread with a nut welded to the chassis and on the end of the all thread (with a jam nut of course). That way you can adjust it like a screw jack on the fly
That sounds like a slick setup.
Looked really good!!!
Thank you Sir!
I would recommend tacking a washer on the inside of the frame and welding a good solid thick washer on the outside where your chain attaches to the frame, you would be surprised at how that 5/16th bolt can bend that lower edge of the hole out, especially on a rough track. Washers will save the frame hole from getting hogged out and you can replace them if the washers get tweaked.
Good tip
Looked good bro
Thanks James.
👍
yes sir
I know a lot of folks are doing it but I don’t want ANYTHING topping out or bottoming out! I can see having the mounts and chain available for going to different tracks as a “crutch” for say when you rolling way too hard on rr and toting lf really bad or one on lr for a rough track when your bottoming rf real bad but I don’t want to use it as a regular adjustment. Just me maybe I’m wrong. Good luck at Whynot bud!
I REALLY struggled to get my head wrapped around how thus is better. Literally had to stumble my way into getting this chain system working. But geez David.. yeah it's faster, I was very skeptical at one point but in the car its crazy how much different it makes the car act. I know I'm not the right one to prove it with my results but this is what the leaders are doing. Even in classes that don't allow chains, guys are moving mounts to make shocks top out to force load transfers. It's crazy what this has become but there's really an advantage in it. . .
Gotta be careful with that chain! It's a really useful adjustment, but keep those adjustments small. If you shorten it too much, it'll drive that left rear too much. I've seen a 1/4" chain take the car from rotating good to toting the left front all the way around the track. Car looked really good in that hot lap session though! Good luck at Whynot!
Thanks man, I am hoping we'd night in practice to be able to run, tighten, run, tighten to figure out exactly where it needs to be for full slick versus hooked up.
Agreed. The LF chain can tighten or loosen the car... and it doesnt take much. It all depends on the setup, track conditions and driver input... If you have room, try using a stiff roller cam spring to act as a buffer to reduce the shock when the chain becomes tight... or a small biscuit.
LR droop will determine the amount of mechanical drive is in the car. Left side chain adjustments can be fun when it's right. 😊
Not sure what your rules are.
Do you think the chain you installed really helped ? The car looked good for sure
I haven't adjusted it much and have very few laps so far. We are headed to the Street Stock Nationals Wed and will be running every night so hoping to get plenty of experience to give some feedback.
Don’t use regular heat shrink it’s slather 🍑! Use flexible woven FABRIC heat shrink. I use 3:1. It’s far more clean and professional looking and fairly cheap. A foot long piece wide enough fit any chain is less then $5. It’s more flexible then standard heat shrink and let’s the chain work more naturally.
The chain drastically effects body roll and transfer to the RR but the effects on me mechanical leverage that your talking about effects the LR far more then RR at least on a 4 bar. It’s increased more as that transfer is pushed from the RR over to the LR of your sprung right and more so on a bar car as the RR birdcage indexes into the spring. Your upper trailing arm angles, drive angle and even anti dive will also significantly effect how that weight transfer is distributed.
Good info right there bud.
More good info that's much appreciated!
The car looked good. Not alot of driver input. Give em hell in Miss!!
Thanks Patrick 😊
@@DIRTRACELIFE Jason I can send my Falcon trans for a spare if you want. My son will get there Friday night.
I just refreshed this one and it's sure acting perfect so I am hoping to not have issues with her. But I won't complain if he had it in his truck just incase 😉 hopefully never will get unloaded!
@@DIRTRACELIFE Perfect, he will have it and check with you
The left front chain has almost nothing to do with the rr wheel weight. If the right front has a solid rod in it for a spring and the chassis has infinite torsional stiffness, the rr wheel weight will increase by exactly 0 lbs.
You should look into roll rate distribution.
Left front chain gets tight, ALL of the weight on the left side of the car is on the left rear.
That’s what it does. When you want all of the wedge, make sure the chain is tight.
Thanks bud
I know you built that car you said it was a big GM and you're using Nova or Chevelle lowers is that like a 76 Monte Big frame or is it early or mid 80s Caprice or Impala frame I have the big GM that's early 80s mid-80s Caprice or Impala now I was just wondering if what the advantage to using a Nova or a Chevelle lower is but just curious buddy thanks
I sure misspoke there and didn't catch it. This car is a 73 Montecarlo and those lowers are the 73-77 Montecarlo's which are the same as gen 2 camaros. The spring pocket location on these and the novas are both creating a 30% spring ratio (example a 1000lb spring is seen by the car as 300lbs). The stock metrics are 23% and a lot of folks are switching those out with novas because it moves you to a 30% and it widens the front track by an inch on each side.
Not a fan of chains , ol school I guess , seems like it would kill side bite JMO
Dang sure will if that LR chain is too tight, Learned that the hard way SMH
Throw them chains in the garbage
I appreciate the comment but the type springs and shocks I am running do not work without them. Its a package deal for how this car is built and the type cars in the class. On my factory stock Camaro for example I do not use any tethers.