How long of a pull bar do you recommend for a swing arm car battery mod 🤔 I keep hearing from people who are using a shorter version than I am used to.. my dad tried it and didn't like it because it reacted so fast?? And I am still wondering what kind of left rear bite you recommend for a real dry slick track semi banked 3/8 mile pretty flat track.. we are getting better but guys keep telling us to keep stiffening the right rear and I don't know if I agree with that one??
While stiffer RR does add weight, but that's adding reverse cross. To me you'd need 180 to 225lbs of LR bite when it slicked off, and that's considering that your tires are right. Dropping air pressure in RR a few pounds and putting a turn and a quarter or a little more in LR would be my thing to try. Maybe even lengthening the RR lower link to give it more roll steer to help straighten out the car some from middle out maybe. Putting a softer compression shock on RR also that would also have a tighter rebound.
Why not just raise the rear roll center? Raise the Panhard bar or Watts link height. You get faster weight transfer, less roll for the same spring rate. Less roll = less roll steer. can use softer compression and rebound
Because that makes too much sense lol. The panhard damn sure would get it to transfer quicker, not a spring height. He acts like you change the spring height and never move the jack bolt lol
Lol you apparently have never played with a slinky as a kid. How does it go down the stairs? It’s spring table. 😱 it’s the same principle with two independent springs connected by a common body. The higher spring rolls over to the lower spring. This is why we play with toys like slinky’s as a kid. To learn. Just because you don’t comprehend the physics doesn’t make it “crap” Spring tables do make a difference. In fact every single late model chassis builder in the country builds their upper shock mounts with a drop on the RR. Rocket has done it since 99. You just don’t comprehend what your looking at or why it was done. You probably didn’t even notice. New chassis are built with the actual bar work mimicking the same principle in order to enhance body roll. Good Modified drivers built dropped RF spring cups as far back as 2005 they also ran a dropped RR upper mount and and ran 13” and 16” springs for almost 20 years now. Spring tables.. The champions new and didn’t tell you. On a bar car the upper mounting location is most important for the spring table. On a trailing arm car or 3 link it’s the top coil of the spring that’s most important. Common knowledge for a long period of time bro. Maybe listen more instead of assuming you understand everything. If you don’t grasp the concept of spring tables, your certainly struggling with more complex dynamic changes in the car. I highly doubt your career wins are utilizing double or triple digits or you require a single finger to count your championships. If this is true your not really an authority on what’s legit and shouldn’t spread that narrative to other struggling local rednecks. So: 🤫....🤐....👂....📝.... 🧠
Yeah, same rate spring at 13" vs same rate at 11" makes no difference in my mind. Rate is rate, the car is still up against the same 200lb rate spring per say, height makes no difference because the jack bolt plate has to be turned down to keep the same static ride height. Now, if you weren't changing the ride height, then yes, I could understand the quicker acting weight transfer because it would already be half way into attitude.
If you’re running that soft to get that much drive what do you with the Rf To get it to work
Match the caster and camber to the track
@@jeffgood6441 so If I’m running 6.5° camber run 6.5° caster?
How long of a pull bar do you recommend for a swing arm car battery mod 🤔 I keep hearing from people who are using a shorter version than I am used to.. my dad tried it and didn't like it because it reacted so fast?? And I am still wondering what kind of left rear bite you recommend for a real dry slick track semi banked 3/8 mile pretty flat track.. we are getting better but guys keep telling us to keep stiffening the right rear and I don't know if I agree with that one??
Yes try to make rr a little stiffer it works but its a band aid as well for not having enough rear mechanical bite
While stiffer RR does add weight, but that's adding reverse cross. To me you'd need 180 to 225lbs of LR bite when it slicked off, and that's considering that your tires are right. Dropping air pressure in RR a few pounds and putting a turn and a quarter or a little more in LR would be my thing to try. Maybe even lengthening the RR lower link to give it more roll steer to help straighten out the car some from middle out maybe. Putting a softer compression shock on RR also that would also have a tighter rebound.
Why not just raise the rear roll center? Raise the Panhard bar or Watts link height. You get faster weight transfer, less roll for the same spring rate. Less roll = less roll steer. can use softer compression and rebound
No one knows what roll rate is in dirt racing. We’ve developed our own language of nonsensical jargon that helps confuse everyone using it
Because that makes too much sense lol. The panhard damn sure would get it to transfer quicker, not a spring height. He acts like you change the spring height and never move the jack bolt lol
There ai t a pan hard bar on a stock car so that’s why
Ole Jake Mcbirnie
This guy is lost with that spring table height crap. None of that makes any difference
Lol you apparently have never played with a slinky as a kid. How does it go down the stairs? It’s spring table. 😱 it’s the same principle with two independent springs connected by a common body. The higher spring rolls over to the lower spring. This is why we play with toys like slinky’s as a kid. To learn.
Just because you don’t comprehend the physics doesn’t make it “crap”
Spring tables do make a difference. In fact every single late model chassis builder in the country builds their upper shock mounts with a drop on the RR. Rocket has done it since 99. You just don’t comprehend what your looking at or why it was done. You probably didn’t even notice. New chassis are built with the actual bar work mimicking the same principle in order to enhance body roll.
Good Modified drivers built dropped RF spring cups as far back as 2005 they also ran a dropped RR upper mount and and ran 13” and 16” springs for almost 20 years now. Spring tables.. The champions new and didn’t tell you.
On a bar car the upper mounting location is most important for the spring table. On a trailing arm car or 3 link it’s the top coil of the spring that’s most important. Common knowledge for a long period of time bro. Maybe listen more instead of assuming you understand everything. If you don’t grasp the concept of spring tables, your certainly struggling with more complex dynamic changes in the car. I highly doubt your career wins are utilizing double or triple digits or you require a single finger to count your championships. If this is true your not really an authority on what’s legit and shouldn’t spread that narrative to other struggling local rednecks.
So: 🤫....🤐....👂....📝.... 🧠
Yeah, same rate spring at 13" vs same rate at 11" makes no difference in my mind. Rate is rate, the car is still up against the same 200lb rate spring per say, height makes no difference because the jack bolt plate has to be turned down to keep the same static ride height. Now, if you weren't changing the ride height, then yes, I could understand the quicker acting weight transfer because it would already be half way into attitude.