Do the Italians Do it Best? Bespoke Suit Unboxing with Eric Jensen of Stefano Bemer
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Do the Italians Do it Best? Bespoke Suit Unboxing with Eric Jensen of Stefano Bemer
I just received my first bespoke suit from Eric Jensen at Stefano Bemer! Do you think the Italians make the best suits in the world? Check out this video and let us know!
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The fabric colour couldn't be more under-stated yet distinct. Very nice.
i wasn't a fan of the colour at first but it grew up on me the more i looked at it. Truly a great fabric. Now, the tie..it's too much for me, but it fits the rest quite well.
That is a handsome suit. The color of the fabric is indeed unique and elegant. Pinstripes are always elegant.
Great fabric! May be your nicest suit from what I can see. Bellissima!!
That really is a dynamite suit. Eric’s work seems to really blend the best of Italian and English tailoring. Beautiful drape. Perfect balance. Semi-structured shoulder. And the subtle pinstripe looks better than I thought it would. Lovely!
Always love a pinstripe! I have an odd jacket made in a Dormeuil fabric, love it in the spring and fall!
Have to say, Kirby, it looks absolutely tremendous. Love your videos. Keep up the great work.
The length of the trousers is a personal preference but the asymmetrical roll on the lapel is really conspicuous. The drape on the back also seems quite off.
This is really down to the jacket having literally been “unboxed” on camera.
@@kirbyallison
Will we see the suit again restes?
Lovely suit, and it's impressive that it looks so good straight out of the box. I'm not sure if it's a cultural difference but in British tailoring we talk about 'cloth' rather than 'fabric' and 'alterations' rather than 'adjustments'. Still a nice suit though :-)
Cloth is correct because they’re clothes. Fabric usually refers to drape or curtain material but can also mean cloth.
That is one of your best looking suits, especially in this Texas heat.
YES HI LIVES IN DALLAS IN HEAT & HUMID CITY.
Sr, im from Portugal Oporto.Tanks niice clips "videos".
where can I buy that exact fabric? I love the green and blue with strip mixture in it. can anyone provide a link. Thank you
I really like the cloth chosen for the suit. Dormeuil is always a good choice. The suit coat sits well on the shoulders. However the suit needs a pressing. The trouser cuffs are hemmed too high for some reason. Ideally they should be just above the heel of the shoe. And the back of the tie (smaller end) should not hang longer than the front of the tie.
Kirby likes to have a small part of the tie to be longer.
are u a tailor?
What pomade do you use.
The shoulders and sleeve-heads are stunning! Once it’s settled and moulded to your body it’s only going to improve with age.
While in London Kirby, be sure to get a couple of your suits sponged and pressed on Savile Row. They’re the best at building the shape and life back into the garment, plus it’d make a great video to see it being done to one of YOUR tired suits.
Beautiful job Eric! I’m sure he’s pleased.
Edited for spellcheck.
That what bugs me about this suit.
The left lapel does not roll to the top button. The right and left lapel are unbalanced. The back pulls across the small of your back. The right shoulder is too tight...note the dimple below the sleevehead. Whatever you paid is too much.
Is it because of the light cloth not allowing any drape?
@@paulmcgee1867 No. It is a cutting issue.
First hated this comment but after second viewing I have to admit it’s not false. Not comparable to an English tailored suit. Fabric is beautiful though
Did Kirby not notice the lapels
Hate to say it but all correct. And both shoulders have terrible indentations upon the slightest movement which should not be present with bespoke at this price point.
Looks very relaxed yet elegant. Perfect for a summer business meeting.
How much for that suit????? 🙏
Hey Kirbs, What are the strange puffy edges at the top of your shoulders with the grey suit you were wearing? Or is that a feature. I hope I have not offended you, kind regards Ben from NZ
That's called shoulder roping, it's a feature
Something you dont get to see, on Walmart $69.99 Made in China Suite.
Look up Cifonelli
Mr. Allison. For a long time I have enjoyed, appreciated and benefited from a great many of your videos. After watching this one I was moved to get a sanity check on my impression so I asked my wife to watch it.
Her comment was: "If he watched that video himself before posting then he is someone that is clearly steering out of his lane."
So many elements of the fit and finish that go into a bespoke garment are hard to see. Borrowing a comparison from the car industry, one comparison might be to what occurs when observing the AMG version of a Mercedes vehicle. When seen, you know something is different in the way it appeals to your eye but, the reason is not something easily articulated.
I'd love to know more about the cloth used to make this garment. As presented, it certainly doesn't seem to have been up to the task. I've had suits made (not bespoke) from the "gold stakes" collection of fabrics from Warren K. Cooke. They would bend softly with movement but otherwise would lay perfectly flat.
If you wore this suit into any board room I have been associated with, I'm sure all would find you presentable but far from admired for your appearance.
I see several comments suggesting that the suit should have been pressed first.
My take on that:
When you take a bespoke suit made from the finest cloth out of the garment bag, put it on, and the first thing anyone thinks of is that it needs pressing, there is something amiss.
In the original suit you're wearing aren't the lapels scalloped somewhat? Is that a dry cleaning error?
That left lapel really looks odd with the ripples. Hopefully just a bad cleaning rather than not holding up long term
Although the cloth is beautiful, there are some obvious fit issues with this suit at this stage. Turns out the suit was not pressed properly, and one of the lapels was tucked underneath itself. This caused the entire coat to deform into what you're seeing on the screen. Kirby really should have looked in the mirror before showing off the suit before the camera. I'm sure that's a lesson learned.
I had suspected poor pressing was the culprit as the jacket was perfectly balanced at the fitting stage. I recently commissioned a suit from Eric Jensen, and he confirmed it. Plus, he and Kirby mention it in a subsequent video, in one of the the Italian tweed suit videos if I remember correctly.
Eric is exactly the same in person as he appears on camera. Super nice guy and an expert in his craft. A bit hard on the American interns, but he strongly believes they have to be willing to fully commit to the process and to put in the work and the hours that are required to become a Master Tailor. Start at the very bottom and be prepared to stay there for quite a while as you gain experience. So far he's batting zero for three on American interns, lol.
Videos on Fire.
BTW thanks for the Budd tip. I've just received my first made to measure from them and their product and customer service is par excellence.
Alas I also decided to try an outfit based in Costa Mesa CA, but they've asked for another month for a made to measure shirt. That was disappointing.
You get what you pay for I suppose.
Kirby? Please post the video on luggage and traveling with the suits. Thanks
Strange, as the suit in the final fiiting video just needed the sleeves adjusted. What happenend?
What happened to the Double Commissioned suits from Kent and John
What is the color code for the Dormeuil suit?
Thanks!
That slap head through its all a person can focus on
You should do a fashion tour of Italy/ Rome like you did with London! 😁
Gorgeous material! Love the color and tones. Beautiful suit!!
Looks fantastic, l thought the trousers are a little short, but a great whistle.
Went for something a touch formal. No cuff. Slight break.
Hi man, how do you keep your Shirt in?
The cut of this suit looks like is of the rack!!! Nothing like it was tailor made!
I really like the suit you have on. The cut is perfect on you. The new suit is beautiful. I love the color.
I have a question . Why is the sleeve head not smooth , their seems to be some puckering at the top of the sleeve head and ive seen it in some of the other suits . Is this something that is requested by you Kirby ?
Yeah my J.C. Penney suits don’t even have that “puckering”
It’s quite normal for the Italians to work in extra fabric around the shoulder to create fullness. Creates a touch of puckering as the extra fabric at the top of the sleeve.
@@kirbyallison thank you Kirby !! I prefer a sleek sleeve but to each is own .
@@kirbyallison The puckering is absolutely an Italian style element. It is one of the very few things that I do not like in Italian suits.
Hi Kirby do you have a video unboxing the pieces you commissioned from John Kent and Terry Haste? I can't find it.
He'll be in London this month for 1st fit.. dunno when the video will be out.
I can't wait.. I'd love a Terry Haste suit
@@richtonge2736 ooh can't wait!
Just had the first and second fittings while here in London. Probably one more next time I am here. Garments should be completed by the fall
@@kirbyallison brilliant I am so excited for this!
There are a number of fit and execution issues with this suit. Not surprising since the first one had poorly executed shoulders and sleeve heads. Here, the lapels are shockingly off with the left lapel starting something like 1/2" lower than the right one and ending 2" above the right one. No big deal. Call it Italian sprezzatura lol Turning to the back, the collar is too low. There is some tightness at the waist and probably too much balance between the scye level and the waist. By the way, if you go for a light-weight cloth, you'd better have a good tailor. Because that type of fabric is particularly unforgiving.
I noticed that at the beginning but i thought it was the camera angle. The lapels are way out on a bespoke suit aswell. If i was the tailor of that suit i would be embarrass.
I disagree with both of you. I think this suit is just rumpled from being shipped, and Kirby put it on immediately without steaming or ironing. I expect this suit in person looks like a perfect fit.
I really like the overall styling of the suits by Jensen, but unfortunately there are some glaring fitting issues. The shoulders are way more on point on this one, but the problem with the lapels is rather obvious. Concerning the waist I don't think you can say it is a balance issue just by watching the video, so it also could be just some tightness that can easily be addressed (maybe somebody gained some weight?). Although you can also observe this by looking at the fronts unclosed, which aren't falling straight down, so it might be a vertical balance issue. Overall I wouldn't call it a desaster but there are some issues.... nevertheless I like the look
The pressing of the lapels seem to be off. Hopefully it’s not an issue with the Cutting but only the pressing. I think the biggest issue is the fabric is too light weight
What is this, Styleforum?
That suit is top class! Love it! Especially the colour!
I don’t know anything about suits, but I feel the V where the two sides are buttoned looks a bit unbalanced. One side is larger/lower than the other side?
Nice suit. But I’d rather have the divij DB flannel suit
What is the name of the fabric mill? I think I hear him say "door-mey" but I am not sure how to spell it? I have tried Googling with various spellings without success. Please advise!
Im not gonna lie here Kirby, the suit youre wearing for the video really doesnt touch the quality of some of your other bespoke suits. Its clear on the shoulders
probably because the suit was shipped to him and it wrinkled on the way. Easy fix to be honest.
I think you need a pinky ring and custom cufflinks
New to the channel. I'm not the type that wears suits, but your channel has me wanting to buy a suit in the worst way. There is a sense of elegance that I absolutely adore. The suit looks fantastic. Great video, as always!
Despite the great fabric I really do think this is the first suit from Kirby that does not have the proper finishing touches and some measures even look unbalanced!
One of your best looking suits Kirby! Looking good Sir!
What's the total cost of the suit ?
Kirby, may I ask what color buttons you ended up going with? In a previous video, you and Eric discussed mid-gray, but these look dark brown.
It looks like the fabric is excellent and I like the pattern and color. But I see too many wrinkles and the pants are short. Something went wrong with the stitching of the pieces. Sorry about that..
It’s been sat in shipping for a long time, and he literally said the trousers didn’t need to be adjusted so it’s clearly a styling choice
Hey kirby, you look great in this suit. What colour is this ? Do u have something like a fabric number ? I want to make my new suit with this exact fabric!
really don't like the "puffy" connection from sleeve to shoulder. It's really meant to be that way?
It looks splendid Mr Allison !
Hey I have a Gallo suit... Love it
Thank you for what you do Kirby, a true style inspiration for me personally, big big fan! sending you love and regards from Saudi.
The fabric is terrific and incredibly interesting and frankly the fit is visibly more refined than on the fresco but I do have a bit of an issue with that short label roll on the left hand side ... probably just a pressing matter (no pun intended?)
yeah there's definitely a substantial imbalance w/ the lapel press
The dimensity is eye catchy.
Excellent suit Kirby!
Absolutely? Absolutely. Just subscribed and this shlub is really enjoying your knowledge and class.
It's nice to see these new nice looking suits and sometimes shoes as well. But my question is - how many do you wish to own? You have so many of these expensive premium items, you won't get much wear out of them...
Look at the inseam on your left side. I saw it is uneven
That’s amazing Kirby. Looks excellent on you.
Love the suit love the vlog always very informative
The trousers are way too short. Not exactly a great example of what “bespoke” is all about.
My observation as well. The trousers seem rather high-water.
I kinda like them like this tbh
Very nice suit.
Bravo!!!!!!!
What a Beautiful suit!!! Wear it in Good Health Kirby.
This suit is 🔥🔥🔥Kirby!
Kirby’s first word was “bespoke”
Love the suit and ghe colour thsnkuou kirby for an amazing episode
It's not a box it's a made-to-measure suit bag, if possible store with cedar or lavender
Nice fabric.
The suit and the fabric look really good. One question / point: @6:51 the trousers look a little short. Was that due to the setting of your braces? I've noticed that Americans tend to cut their trousers shorter than in Europe. I've seen videos of Reagan and Trump with trousers basically "at half mast", as if the trousers had shrunk or their tailor had run out of cloth. Maybe you can comment on this or discuss it with Eric Jensen who's seen both worlds. A comment from the UK tailors would also be interesting.
I noticed that as well?
yeah I noticed the leg hems were a little high too.. but then I find Italian tailoring a big sloppy anyway. Give me a sharp London cut any day
I agree, the trousers are too short
Welcome back to London, Kirby!
I was walking with my wife earlier and actually saw you on Pall Mall. We really wanted to say hello but didn’t want to interrupt you as you were walking with purpose with Tom Chamberlain and another gentleman. I hope you will have a great time. Looking forward to seeing more videos! Cheers!👌
Oh, darn! You should have said hello! We had just finished filming a walking tour on the Trooping of the Colour and were walking back to Davidoff before heading to lunch.
The suit looks fantastic.
What a gentleman, support from Hong Kong
The leg length looks like it could be a little longer.
spoke of the be variety
Very nice, I personally would have added a 1 1/2 inch cuff on the trousers and a theatre pocket above the right suit pocket. Great weight and cut, with a lovely light sheen to the fabric.
Just one word Mr. Allison Marvelous....actually more than just one word, several of those being awesome fantastic superb gorgeous the way it hugs your body really highlights what a bespoke suit is capable of doing very stylish great design the fabric is definitely impeccable I'm jealous, have a great trip to London and as always thanks for sharing
Lovely colour, nice cut.
I like the trousers but the jacket isn’t my cup of tea based on the arm and shoulders
Your left lapel is not balance with right side
My mens wearhouse suit looks and fits better than this and I only paid $350. I realize this is handmade, but the least you can ask for is a good looking suit.
Seriously the stuff these dudes convince themselves of to cope with spending such exorbitant amounts of money on an ill fitting suit for ThE DeTaILs is hilarious to me at least you’d expect a symmetrical lapel spending thousands of dollars. Machines make better stuff than we do a lot of the time it’s an unfortunate truth
I thought the double vents was a British style, or is that not the case? Really love the suit! One of my favourites of yours 👌
Vents are pretty universally accepted
I thought ok another grey suit but the different tones within the fabric give it a subtle glow make it a grade above
Great choice
Dope suit, brotha. Straight fire color.
Awesome! Beautiful color, beautiful fit-totally suits you!
Looks fantastic.
Beautiful color, love that suit!
Who made his first wearing grey suit? I love his lapels belly.
It looks like the bridal on the left side is not balanced w the right. That, or it was pressed with an uneven break. Also, if you think that's great packaging (?) you don't know what you are missing.
It was right out of the box. And I do have a rather exaggerated drop right. Makes it a bit difficult to align the notches.
British or Italian…which is better? They are both great. It all depends on one’s preferences. Generally, I prefer Italian styling and I am a fan of Hoboken’s Joseph Genuardi, who apprenticed under the famous Joseph Centofanti of Philadelphia. Hard to evaluate the suit right out of the box.
In italia ,Gallo è una normalissima sartoria , come ce ne sono a migliaia .
Le migliori è più rinomate sartorie italiane sono altre. Almeno qui in Italia, in America avete sicuramente idee tutte vostre
The answer from me would be a big, fat NO. Savile Row is the best. Hands down.
wow! Is that a Gallo 12 or 24?
Lovely suit! By the way, it's not sahr-TORE-ee-ah Gallo. It's sahr-tore-EE-ah Gallo.
Kirby, congrats on the new suit! what brand are your braces if you don't mind me asking?
Awesome suit. Saw you in London in the trunk show. Looking sharp there....
Kirby, where in Texas do you call home?
Dallas
@@kirbyallison Very nice. I currently reside just South of Houston, Texas
Dimensionality was brilliant here, if not merely proper, no ?