I worked in prisons for 20 plus years. We almost exclusively used American steel padlocks and Ilco mortise locks. Since Master bought American..things have gone way down hill…fast.
Google "Kwikset Pickle Fork" or "Kwikset Cylinder Removal Tool" I am pretty sure you would be able to find the exact one. It is a simple tool but works well.
this problem is very common with master lock, I have already had two padlocks from this company which had this defect, one of which had two pins at 0 cut !!! 👍🏻
I make fun of Masterlock constantly but my 911 isn't a bad lock or a bad pick. The heavy tension needed to open it makes it difficult for a novice picker. A common thing you see is this lock picked to open but the picker doesn't know. I hate to see one of the better Masterlocks fail so miserably but there's a reason they are the butt of many jokes.
Pin five would be referred to as a “zero lift”? Very cool way to check if a pin needs to be picked by checking how the key pins and drivers line up. Very nice instructional video I learned something new. Thank you for the informative lesson. I am a big fan of the 911 and am currently working on a 911 cL.
Well, sort of, usually the zero lift pins are long enough so they sit flush with the shear line on their own. The driver never really leaves the bible. But here there is also no need to lift it, so it is essentially a zero lift.
Actually it's exactly the opposit of a zero lift. The bitting is zero as opposed to maximum cut. Take another look at the key at 3:59 If it was a zero lift, the bitting would make room for the key pin, but instead it is pushing the pin down to the shearline. However, the funny part is: essentially the key pin becomes a zero lift when combined with the driver pin. And I suppose this is just coincidentally. When you have another look at the stacked pins in 8:31 you notice that for pins 1 to 4 you need to push the pin stack into the bible so that they split at shearline with the drivers in the bible. But pin 5, when not touched, is meeting the spring of the driver pin at the shearline. So, with this height setting, the spring of chamber 5 is touching the core as you turn it. Usually you would make the driver pin a little bit longer to prevent that from happening.
@@tigerchills2079 precisely! Thanks for the clarification. Makes sense but based on the odd pinning arrangement and security lapse via obvious design error it still becomes a zero lift or call it no touch pin. Those pickers like. I am going to explore the stacking order on some previous opens to see if I have any other no touch design errors. I’m sure i do. Also like the deep cuts where very little touch is required to set. Had fun with an ACE 527 yesterday with a quick minute open. The Helpful Lock Picker is certainly that and I learn quite a bit from the tutorials he provides Locksporters. What’s in your vise?
I would think you would want pin one to be a low cut on the key (like a 9 or whatever is the deepest cut on that system) to make it hard to get to the shorter pins behind it?
@@unlockeduk you have it backwards, a 9 pin is the longest pin available and is lifted just a tiny bit to get the top of the pin to the shear line, then it's in the way for picking the pins behind it. A zero pin is the shortest possible pin, and needs to be raised all the way up to get the top of the pin to the shear line. Don't believe me? The number 5 pin in the video is a zero pin, and it's a little bitty thing compared to the other pins.
“This is, the locking picking lawyer, and today I have for you another shitty lock. This lock is obviously garbage because a competent lock picker managed to pick it open.”
@@HelpfulLockPicker yeah which is much better. I was just making a joke about lockpickinflawyer bc this is the first video I’ve seen where you review and pick a lock
![[631] Master Lock 875/975 Decoded WITHOUT ANY TOOLS !](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfDPtt-bnAI/mqdefault.jpg)
Always fun to stumble across these kinds of design "features", I've had similar with cheap Chinese locks
Thanks for checking it out
Nice pick. All Master Locks aren't total garbage. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for checking it out
I have at least 2 different brands of lock with these zero bitted pins that do exactly as you showed, Thank you for the video explaining it.
Great job picking this brother
Thanks
Nice work. I figure bitting is just so random that this will happen from time to time.
Just surprised the driver pins are so short
I worked in prisons for 20 plus years. We almost exclusively used American steel padlocks and Ilco mortise locks. Since Master bought American..things have gone way down hill…fast.
Thanks for sharing and that is unfortunate to hear :-(
Very cool. Nicely done 👍👍🤝🤝🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks for checking it out
Good video.
To bad about the 5th pin ☹️
Stay safe my friend
🐾🐈⬛🐈🐾👍👍👍👍
Thanks for checking it out
Nice video with useful insights. That tool you used to remove the clip - very neat. I'm guessing it was home-made but what did it start life as?
Google "Kwikset Pickle Fork" or "Kwikset Cylinder Removal Tool" I am pretty sure you would be able to find the exact one. It is a simple tool but works well.
You could cut the (spring) tension with a knife
I appreciate that
this problem is very common with master lock, I have already had two padlocks from this company which had this defect, one of which had two pins at 0 cut !!! 👍🏻
Thanks for sharing 👍
I make fun of Masterlock constantly but my 911 isn't a bad lock or a bad pick. The heavy tension needed to open it makes it difficult for a novice picker. A common thing you see is this lock picked to open but the picker doesn't know.
I hate to see one of the better Masterlocks fail so miserably but there's a reason they are the butt of many jokes.
Thank you for sharing. It is nice to see they have be in business for 100 years but sometimes simple things like this make one wonder.
That 5th pin should be in chamber one ot two, more effective there.
yeah, thought the same ... either a position more in the front so it's easily overset ... or a longer driver pin
@@SystemX1983 🙂👍🏻
It would have been nice to have it possibly overseas. Still strange they make such short drivers
Pin five would be referred to as a “zero lift”? Very cool way to check if a pin needs to be picked by checking how the key pins and drivers line up. Very nice instructional video I learned something new. Thank you for the informative lesson. I am a big fan of the 911 and am currently working on a 911 cL.
Well, sort of, usually the zero lift pins are long enough so they sit flush with the shear line on their own. The driver never really leaves the bible. But here there is also no need to lift it, so it is essentially a zero lift.
Actually it's exactly the opposit of a zero lift. The bitting is zero as opposed to maximum cut. Take another look at the key at 3:59
If it was a zero lift, the bitting would make room for the key pin, but instead it is pushing the pin down to the shearline.
However, the funny part is: essentially the key pin becomes a zero lift when combined with the driver pin. And I suppose this is just coincidentally.
When you have another look at the stacked pins in 8:31 you notice that for pins 1 to 4 you need to push the pin stack into the bible so that they split at shearline with the drivers in the bible. But pin 5, when not touched, is meeting the spring of the driver pin at the shearline. So, with this height setting, the spring of chamber 5 is touching the core as you turn it.
Usually you would make the driver pin a little bit longer to prevent that from happening.
@@tigerchills2079 precisely! Thanks for the clarification. Makes sense but based on the odd pinning arrangement and security lapse via obvious design error it still becomes a zero lift or call it no touch pin. Those pickers like. I am going to explore the stacking order on some previous opens to see if I have any other no touch design errors. I’m sure i do. Also like the deep cuts where very little touch is required to set. Had fun with an ACE 527 yesterday with a quick minute open. The Helpful Lock Picker is certainly that and I learn quite a bit from the tutorials he provides Locksporters. What’s in your vise?
Thanks for sharing
a zero pin should always be pin 1 in my opinion it can make it hard to set the back ones without lifting sometimes
Thanks for sharing 👍
I would think you would want pin one to be a low cut on the key (like a 9 or whatever is the deepest cut on that system) to make it hard to get to the shorter pins behind it?
@@garybreuckman9794 no a nine cut would be lifted all the way up a zero curt means you dont move it at all
@@unlockeduk you have it backwards, a 9 pin is the longest pin available and is lifted just a tiny bit to get the top of the pin to the shear line, then it's in the way for picking the pins behind it. A zero pin is the shortest possible pin, and needs to be raised all the way up to get the top of the pin to the shear line.
Don't believe me? The number 5 pin in the video is a zero pin, and it's a little bitty thing compared to the other pins.
@@garybreuckman9794 sorry i was thinking on a key a 9 pin would be a zero cut sorry your correct
I picked a 911 one time and the core got stuck open and would not move. Not sure what happened as there was nothing strange during the pick.
Did you ever try to take it apart
@@HelpfulLockPicker I did not. Wish I had.
I have a 6321 on my storage
Thank you for sharing
I've only been able to SPP it once, can't repeat it. driving me crazy.
Thanks for sharing
I don't think master lock knows how to make locks
Not since they quit making the vintage#19
Lol, they've had over 100 years now to figure this out
I think your wrong I think they don't know how to make a good look 😅😅😅
“This is, the locking picking lawyer, and today I have for you another shitty lock. This lock is obviously garbage because a competent lock picker managed to pick it open.”
To be fair, I said this is a reasonable lock to use for normal applications
@@HelpfulLockPicker yeah which is much better. I was just making a joke about lockpickinflawyer bc this is the first video I’ve seen where you review and pick a lock