Man thank you. this help me fix my 2012 3.5. I couldn’t get exact same in Canada but end up getting 3/8 ID - 1/2 OD 1/16 width . Can’t believe how hard it was to get one.
@@Goldchannel12 stoked it helped you out! Just a heads up. By the time I got my oem coolant fittings delivered and then swapped out. My replacement, get ya down the road (in video) orings had worn out. They made it about 3 months. Enough to get you out and back home a few times. lol.
Unfortunately not… the passenger side you have no choice but to remove the turbo and if I can remember loosen the ac compressor to get to the coolant fitting on the block.
Last year at Christmas time my 2012 ecoboost got loud as heck when I went to crank it sounded like a freakin tractor!! Had 2 broken exhaust manifold bolts on driver side right before turbo (where the weight is) when I took manifold off I was relieved that plenty of bolt was sticking out of block!! I soaked it with pb blaster let it sit overnight ! Very important) don’t rush it. Was able to get them out with vise grips. Ordered BD deisel manifolds and turbo adapter with new bolts and gaskets. The three extra bolt holes in new manifolds will fix it permanently!!! I ordered everything from stage 3 performance no problems at all!! Good luck
The turbo adapters came with new exhaust bolt flange bolts and nuts. No more having to heat the old rusted studs up in turbo!! Those where a pain to get out
@@Mark-zn9mn your story is exactly how mine went! Man sooo lucky on having some of the stud left in the block to get a grip on! Haha feels like winning the lottery. Swapped my manifolds last may! Glad u had a successful swap! Nice work!
I like that fellow non believer statement but that is a job just to remove the 3 exst bolt's with out stripping in side of torx heat the best to get those out
This was a job needing to be done without taking off the turbo and everything else. Leak was terrible and didn’t have my gaskets or new jiffy fittings yet. There’s a will there’s a way. Lol. Eventually I got everything including the upgraded manifolds. Did them all together. Brand new everything. Phew😅
Good job great video. Why did u have to clean and use the old fitting? The new fitting wouldn’t fit? And I heard you can replace the passenger side one top coming in from the back of the wheel side. Unfortunately it’s the back side one leaking on my truck you can’t get to without dropping motor.
@@tomburns890 yeah the new fittings I had were the ones you need. Depends on the year but similar. Behind the motor at back of each head. Was using them as an example. Oh man you’re going to love this!!! Those back ones are a breeze to replace! Pop the plastic cover off the motor. Lay a blanket or padding on the valve covers. Be careful not to pinch or break any connections. Then a decent sized pocket mirror. Telescoping preferably. Lay over the top of your motor. You can easily access those back fittings! Hey if you have seen a video of someone doing the passenger block without dropping the turbo send it my way! I’d love to see it. All about helping the community. Oh almost forgot. Just lay some towels under the truck because you will loose coolant.
@ wow so your saying the back fitting to the turbo on the passenger side can be access from the top of the motor? “Im not actually sure if it’s the fitting to the turbo or the fitting to the block”. Most likely the one to the turbo cause I think those are the more common leakers. I don’t know how I found the video of the guy that did the fitting on the passenger side one exposed behind the wheel well but I remember he only replaced that fitting by filling the line out and moving it slightly to the side to put a new one in and clip it in. I googled f150 3.5 turbo coolant leak or something.
@ oh sorry man. Read your problem wrong. I misread thinking your issue was the fitting on the back of the motor against the firewall. If those leak ☝️what I said previously is the way to do those. Haha for all I know that passenger side block fitting to turbo fitting. It’s best to drop the turbo. Not too long after this video. I replaced the manifolds and studs with upgraded ones. And replaced all the coolant fittings. It was a big process and remember it well. And I was trying to figure out if there could be a short cut in the future for the passenger side. It’s a really tight fit with the coolant line. (Turbo to block) that I would be concerned about bending/ kinking or cracking the line trying to pry it out to swap a fitting.
Man thank you. this help me fix my 2012 3.5. I couldn’t get exact same in Canada but end up getting 3/8 ID - 1/2 OD 1/16 width . Can’t believe how hard it was to get one.
@@Goldchannel12 stoked it helped you out! Just a heads up. By the time I got my oem coolant fittings delivered and then swapped out. My replacement, get ya down the road (in video) orings had worn out.
They made it about 3 months. Enough to get you out and back home a few times. lol.
Nice video, it's good to say different ways to do things. Is this possible to do the same way on the passenger side?
Unfortunately not… the passenger side you have no choice but to remove the turbo and if I can remember loosen the ac compressor to get to the coolant fitting on the block.
@@Ocho-Eco, gross, thank you that sounds about right. Merry Christmas :)
Last year at Christmas time my 2012 ecoboost got loud as heck when I went to crank it sounded like a freakin tractor!! Had 2 broken exhaust manifold bolts on driver side right before turbo (where the weight is) when I took manifold off I was relieved that plenty of bolt was sticking out of block!! I soaked it with pb blaster let it sit overnight ! Very important) don’t rush it. Was able to get them out with vise grips. Ordered BD deisel manifolds and turbo adapter with new bolts and gaskets. The three extra bolt holes in new manifolds will fix it permanently!!! I ordered everything from stage 3 performance no problems at all!! Good luck
The turbo adapters came with new exhaust bolt flange bolts and nuts. No more having to heat the old rusted studs up in turbo!! Those where a pain to get out
@@Mark-zn9mn your story is exactly how mine went! Man sooo lucky on having some of the stud left in the block to get a grip on! Haha feels like winning the lottery. Swapped my manifolds last may! Glad u had a successful swap! Nice work!
I know this is a long and long winded video, but honestly I believe it can make this a 2hr project for the next person. Vs the 6hrs it took me.
Great material!
I like that fellow non believer statement but that is a job just to remove the 3 exst bolt's with out stripping in side of torx heat the best to get those out
This was a job needing to be done without taking off the turbo and everything else. Leak was terrible and didn’t have my gaskets or new jiffy fittings yet. There’s a will there’s a way. Lol.
Eventually I got everything including the upgraded manifolds. Did them all together. Brand new everything. Phew😅
Good job great video. Why did u have to clean and use the old fitting? The new fitting wouldn’t fit? And I heard you can replace the passenger side one top coming in from the back of the wheel side. Unfortunately it’s the back side one leaking on my truck you can’t get to without dropping motor.
@@tomburns890 yeah the new fittings I had were the ones you need. Depends on the year but similar. Behind the motor at back of each head. Was using them as an example.
Oh man you’re going to love this!!! Those back ones are a breeze to replace! Pop the plastic cover off the motor. Lay a blanket or padding on the valve covers. Be careful not to pinch or break any connections. Then a decent sized pocket mirror. Telescoping preferably. Lay over the top of your motor. You can easily access those back fittings!
Hey if you have seen a video of someone doing the passenger block without dropping the turbo send it my way! I’d love to see it. All about helping the community.
Oh almost forgot. Just lay some towels under the truck because you will loose coolant.
@ wow so your saying the back fitting to the turbo on the passenger side can be access from the top of the motor? “Im not actually sure if it’s the fitting to the turbo or the fitting to the block”. Most likely the one to the turbo cause I think those are the more common leakers. I don’t know how I found the video of the guy that did the fitting on the passenger side one exposed behind the wheel well but I remember he only replaced that fitting by filling the line out and moving it slightly to the side to put a new one in and clip it in. I googled f150 3.5 turbo coolant leak or something.
@ oh sorry man. Read your problem wrong. I misread thinking your issue was the fitting on the back of the motor against the firewall. If those leak ☝️what I said previously is the way to do those. Haha for all I know that passenger side block fitting to turbo fitting. It’s best to drop the turbo.
Not too long after this video.
I replaced the manifolds and studs with upgraded ones. And replaced all the coolant fittings. It was a big process and remember it well.
And I was trying to figure out if there could be a short cut in the future for the passenger side. It’s a really tight fit with the coolant line. (Turbo to block) that I would be concerned about bending/ kinking or cracking the line trying to pry it out to swap a fitting.