Agreed. One consequence of wear is a higher bending of the chain. This results in poor shifting. In my experience this is more convincing to many to exchange their chain.
For a new person into MTB this was the best easiest explanation than other videos and straight to the point . Other videos took 3-4 min before they start to explain shit
Long ago, when I was putting a lot of miles on '70s era motorcycles, I bought bulk chain from the local farm supply. My friends kept telling me it was somehow inferior to what they got from the dealer. The thing is, while I was wearing out four $7 chains, they were wearing out two $30 chains and a $150 set of sprockets. They were slow to replace that expensive chain when it started to get worn.
Great video. Also important to note that those moving contact area's are where the lube is needed most. So many people tend to think like they need to be "painting the plates", but its the contact points that count.
Wow! RJ you have moved to new level here. You made props! This is some Alton Brown level action of explanation. Hands down the best video on chain stretch on TH-cam!
Brilliant. I’ve never gone through the theory behind chain-wear tools. Didn’t even know what the tool is supposed to measure. But this is a video à la RJ The Bike Guy: so clear, no fancy talking, sales talk. And the mockup: an image says more than a 1000 words. Thanks RJ! 👍
I love it! I built the same sort of visual aid for my mechanics class two years ago. You put a lot more work into your wooden example--mine is just coroplast 'plates' and a binding post.
that's a good explanation, and the wood mock-up may help correct those who might believe chain stretch is the steel stretching under stress or repeated use. however, i would clarify that serious hill climbing is going to cause chain 'stretch' much more rapidly than normal riding. this is because friction at the wear points you've shown us increases with pressure. so i would say the factors that affect chain wear are 1) cleanliness, 2) lube, 3) riding style, and 4) metallurgy of the chain material
Excellent visual aid. Also very relevant to motorcycle chains, where it's easier/more comfortable to believe your 200hp superbike is stretching the chain, than that your lack of maintenance is sending it to an early grave.
I appreciate the effort and time needed to build those plywood oversized chain links. A drawing could have worked but no you went the extra mile, thank you for that.
RJ that’s the way you explain chain wear.I watched even though I already knew but always enjoy your videos you always go that extra mile like with the mock up.
I’m glad to see you getting your hands dirty. Most TH-cam mechanics wear rubber gloves to keep their delicate hands clean. Thanks RJ for keeping it real and very informative.
For chains to actually stretch, the tension in the chain would have to exceed the yield strength of the steel. One could calculate this, but there is an easier observation that demonstrates it is not happening. Steel that is repeatedly taken past its yield strength, particularly if their is any corrosive environment involved, will eventually develop stress fractures and fail. Chain “stretch” is common, but outright chain failure is rare. If chains were actually stretching, we should have frequent reports of heavier, stronger riders snapping chains, particularly those that use the lightest weight chains, in the lowest gears, pushing up the steepest hills in seaside or wet climates.
Thank you so much for this video. I have just bought myself an e-bike and I want to work on it myself and this video has answered my question about how chains stretch.
Great explanation of chain "stretch" one thing that should be mentioned because so many people fall foul of this: *ALL 11 speed and over systems no matter how many chainrings and all very wide range MTB 1x systems (11-48+)* MUST have the chain replaced at 0.5% if you go to 0.75 on these systems you might as well replace the cassette at the same time. Systems with a cassette of 10 cogs or less and low range 1x systems are fine to 0.75 and the cassette is ruined at 1%.
@@MrFitness94 Yeah, not only does fewer gears/smaller range mean your chain can take more wear before it needs replacing, it will take way longer to reach that point. Also what can happen with older systems is that the whole drivetrain kind of wears in unison and continues to work even when it has gone past even the 1% mark. The only trade off is you might find when the chain does eventually fail you will have to replace the rest of the drivetrain because the teeth profiles on your cassette/freewheel chainrings and even jockey wheels are no longer a match for any new chain in existence LOL.
Way to go, RJ !!! As usual, a "picture" (or model) is worth a thousand words. So, if someone asks me how a chain can "stretch", I'll just refer him to your vid.
I was one of those folks that thought I was putting down so much power I was stretching the chain. This video corrected by delusions of grandeur. Thanks for dragging me back to planet earth. Seriously….great video. I especially liked the visual you made. GCN would of simply made a fancy graphic, but I prefer the practical effects.
Love your widgets and home tool fabrication. You are every person's bike answer. P.s. I miss noting inventory of your background of Mt. Dew and Fresca while doing a rebuild in your sweatpants and house slippers, but I understand (winter in ny is REAL).
Thank you for explaining this so well, I just measured my chain on my road bike from target that I've put quite a few thousand miles on in almost a decade of riding. You'll be happy to know it is only an ⅛ of an inch per foot stretched on the original chain. Might be time for a new one.
Great explanation, RJ. I approve, as a long time bike wrench myself. I think you could've easily expanded this subject to the entire drive train, being that they interact so closely and how chain stretch effects other components too. Well done!
Great visual explanation! I’m always describing this to people in the hopes they keep their chains cleaned and lubed. Will refer them to this as well 👍
Great video. With the cost of labor and parts it is much much cheaper to replace a worn chain than replacing the chainring(s) and cassettes. I have found that spending more for a better chain (I use the higher grade with chromed plates and better rollers and pins) is well worth the extra cost because they seem to collect much less dirt and grit and seem to clean easier.
I can’t really see how the better chain can collect less dirt - unless it has a Klingon cloaking device that repels muck. But the quality of the components within it obviously affect how much wear takes place in use. Imagine a chain made from aluminium - wouldn’t last very long.
@@MarquitoRHMy guess is that the Chromed plates on my chains (and some chains are plated throughout) resist corrosion which puts tiny pits in the metal that hold dust and grit. When I wipe down the chain it seems to get much cleaner than regular non plated chains and leaves more dirt and lubricant on the rag which means that there is less dirt grinding away as I ride. There may also be a different electron charge that is not as electrostatic when plated. I can't claim to know all the science but it works for me.
Great video on the explanation of chain "wear". I would add that if a chain has extreme wear and is replaced with a new one, chances are the freewheel or cassette should be replaced at the same time or you'll get chain skipping especially on the smaller cogs where there is less wrap around on the cogs. Some people falsely claim that new shift and brake cables "stretch" that is wrong, what happens is cables have to seat and compress the housing several times which sometimes requires you to adjust the cable anchor clamp bolt until it stops. Take care!
I already know this and understand it my self. But many bikers/cyclist didn't actually know it technically. It's a good thing you explained it very well and detailed. Viewers will get much knowledge and help from you.
Excellent visualisation, makes things very clear for educational purposes. Now you need to explain the consequences of riding on a worn chain and just how much of your drive train you will need to replace if you leave it too long, it is recommended to change the cassette/freewheel along with your chain but that's not always the case.
Excellent video and visual aids. Missed one small addition... The roller that was excluded in the 'Wear' example... also wears. Both the inside and outside of the roller - O - wears which adds to the gap between teeth. The thickness of the roller becomes so thin that in cases (most of us have worn a chain until it breaks as a kid) the rollers actually become a - C - and fall off.... Hilarity usually ensues. Proper lubrication of a chain gets lubricant into the space between this roller and the pin and allows the teeth to move the roller around the pin without wearing the pin away (Otherwise the roller would not be needed and they would make a chain with pins the size of the outside of the roller). Lubricant on the outside of the chain is actually unimportant, especially on the outer sides) as it is doing nothing... (except where some chain guides touch the outside of a chain rather than using an idler wheel like your derailleur)... You can wipe away external oil on a chain without any loss of lubrication to the chain drive. The lubricant inside the roller is also then held against the pin and the hole in the inner plate shown to wear in the above example. 3:29 Some lubricant between the plates also help prevent friction.. but with cycle chains that are loose enough to twist etc, this is less of an issue... but does allow a larger gap for lubricant to "leak" out between the plates. On good motorcycle chains they have o-rings over the pins between the plates & even sealing systems for the rollers, to keep lubricant inside the roller. (This is where a penetrating or even heated submerged lubrication of a chain is needed.) This system would make a cycle chain too wide for multi sprocket systems (and possibly too heavy for the purist) but may make an appearance for single chained geared systems... I'm watching that space.. (of course belts may do that task too) Note: I use the word "Lubricant" rather than "Oil" as straight Oil is near useless on a chain, needing to be applied each ride as it just drips off. A proper chain lubricant will be a grease or similar product, often with a penetrating/thining agent (and on some a foaming agent) to get the lubricant on and into every crevasse of a chain, but it also has "Sticky" properties (often 'drying out') to leave the lubricant stuck in place, rather than something that flows like oil. Using normal Oil on a chain can wash sticky lubricant away, then drip off itself, leaving your chain dry. Tip.... Motorcycle stores have some cheap chain lube and they have been trying to get that stuff to stick in high wear, hi heat, hi load, high speed situations for a LOOOONG time so it works. (Personally I just use a penetrating spray grease as I have a lot of it in my workshop... HSS2000 but there are are plenty of similar (and definitely cheaper) chain lube products out therre... (You don't need a tiny bottle of platinum priced brand name product to do a good job). "Dry Lube" products (i have some "ICE Wax" does a similar job... I'm on the fence a little on how it reacts to existing lubricant in the system.) Suggestion.... The cheapest chains wear the quickest as the metal they use is more likely to be soft/cheap... spending that little bit more to get the chain on the upper shelf can save you money in chain/sprocket replacement. q8D - But don't take my word for it... I'm a maintenance engineer but run my own gear into the ground and am definitely a Mediocre rider (as my videos show). - again... wow... I wrote all that ? ?
Not only did he leave out the roller, but modern bicycle chains do not use a separate bushing; each inner plate side has half a bushing as part of its design. I'd argue not to buy the most expensive chains. They only make those lighter; lighter is not more durable. The middle-of-the-road chains (and cassettes) are best in terms of bang-for-the-buck.
@@trekkeruss Being a maintenance engineer and having had motorcycles/bicycles for the last 40 years of my life, I will go with a hardened chain over a cheap soft (usually low carbon) chain all the time. (and o-ring chain on any motorbike). On trailbikes I found a standard chain would kill its sprockets in about a year of use (less if I was riding every fortnight. Harden chains, often triple that. (I got about 4 years out of my YZ250 2poke chain riding monthly.. and the chain/sprockets are still on it (Tho I haven't been riding it for several years now...). I managed to get an expensive chromed chain to last 20 years on my Foes.. not hard ridden, but a weekend road warrior over that period). This is the same reason you don't buy cheap screwdrivers etc from E-Bay... Plasticine has a higher carbon content!
@@TheButlerNZ I am going with my 40+ years of experience as a professional bicycle mechanic. Motorcycle chains is a different animal altogether and not very relevant in comparison. There is not a huge gap in durability between name-brand bicycle chains. Not saying none, but the lube and how chain is maintained is far more important than materials in terms of wear. But I do agree that no-name chains (and many other bicycle components) from Amazon/eBay/AliExpress etc. will be junk and should be avoided.
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Lots of people have tried to explain what chain stretch is. This is by FAR the best explanation I've seen. Thanks RJ!
Legs definitely do not have the kind of power it takes to actually stretch steel, even mild steel.
Agreed. One consequence of wear is a higher bending of the chain. This results in poor shifting. In my experience this is more convincing to many to exchange their chain.
That was a great explanation. I knew about chain stretch for years, only as a term. Very educational. Thank you RJ!
For a new person into MTB this was the best easiest explanation than other videos and straight to the point . Other videos took 3-4 min before they start to explain shit
Long ago, when I was putting a lot of miles on '70s era motorcycles, I bought bulk chain from the local farm supply. My friends kept telling me it was somehow inferior to what they got from the dealer. The thing is, while I was wearing out four $7 chains, they were wearing out two $30 chains and a $150 set of sprockets. They were slow to replace that expensive chain when it started to get worn.
Great video. Also important to note that those moving contact area's are where the lube is needed most. So many people tend to think like they need to be "painting the plates", but its the contact points that count.
Great depiction! As they say, you know you understand something fully when you can explain it so a 5 year old can understand.
Wow - that's the best explanation I've ever seen. Love the wooden mock up example to show what's really happening.
Wow! RJ you have moved to new level here. You made props! This is some Alton Brown level action of explanation. Hands down the best video on chain stretch on TH-cam!
Brilliant. I’ve never gone through the theory behind chain-wear tools. Didn’t even know what the tool is supposed to measure. But this is a video à la RJ The Bike Guy: so clear, no fancy talking, sales talk. And the mockup: an image says more than a 1000 words. Thanks RJ! 👍
This is a great illustration of why you have to keep your chain clean and lubed. Thanks, RJ!
Great illustration! Thanks RJ.
I love it! I built the same sort of visual aid for my mechanics class two years ago. You put a lot more work into your wooden example--mine is just coroplast 'plates' and a binding post.
I had scrap wood and a scroll saw. And a drill press, and arbor bits. I actually have a lot of non-bike tools too. :D
that's a good explanation, and the wood mock-up may help correct those who might believe chain stretch is the steel stretching under stress or repeated use. however, i would clarify that serious hill climbing is going to cause chain 'stretch' much more rapidly than normal riding. this is because friction at the wear points you've shown us increases with pressure. so i would say the factors that affect chain wear are 1) cleanliness, 2) lube, 3) riding style, and 4) metallurgy of the chain material
Best teacher ever ! Watching you since 3 or 4 years, sir. :)
Excellent visual aid.
Also very relevant to motorcycle chains, where it's easier/more comfortable to believe your 200hp superbike is stretching the chain, than that your lack of maintenance is sending it to an early grave.
There is also a small amount of wear on the rollers from meshing with the gears. But this is the pefect explanation for what people call "stretch"
Very true. You can even see this if you have cleaned a worn out chain. The rollers are not round any more.
I appreciate the effort and time needed to build those plywood oversized chain links. A drawing could have worked but no you went the extra mile, thank you for that.
Beautiful demonstration!
I actually have one chain with wear so bad like demonstrated here. The casette on one ring is already badly damaged.
RJ that’s the way you explain chain wear.I watched even though I already knew but always enjoy your videos you always go that extra mile like with the mock up.
I’m glad to see you getting your hands dirty. Most TH-cam mechanics wear rubber gloves to keep their delicate hands clean. Thanks RJ for keeping it real and very informative.
Yet, another smashing presentation and educational video of its terminology. Good stuff RJ, thanks again.
Great explanation. You’re use of teaching aids was excellent Very clear and concise. Good job! Thanks!
You are one of the best bicycle mechanics I have seen on TH-cam. Maybe you are busy, but keep it up, Bro.
That explains a lot! I was arguing with a friend that there is no way it can actually "stretch" , but he was adamant that the term is correct. :)
For chains to actually stretch, the tension in the chain would have to exceed the yield strength of the steel. One could calculate this, but there is an easier observation that demonstrates it is not happening. Steel that is repeatedly taken past its yield strength, particularly if their is any corrosive environment involved, will eventually develop stress fractures and fail. Chain “stretch” is common, but outright chain failure is rare. If chains were actually stretching, we should have frequent reports of heavier, stronger riders snapping chains, particularly those that use the lightest weight chains, in the lowest gears, pushing up the steepest hills in seaside or wet climates.
@@markholm7050 stop showing off
Maybe he was just "pulling your leg?" Enjoy. Tip your wait staff. G'nite ladies and gents.
@@markholm7050 "Riveting" story.
It’s called Chain "Stretch" but this isn't the best nomenclature which causes confusion. Chain wear is a more accurate description
Very informative and great use of a mock up. Thank you Bike Guy.
Fantastic explanation! Great job.
Thanks for posting this. Very good demo and very informative. Love your woodshop example!
This is the best explanation I’ve found so far! Very helpful
I'm always learning stuff from this channel. Thanks RJ.
Great idea with the wooden links!
Also great explanation why a worn chain damages the sprockets.
Just fantastic, sublime , RJ is simply the best in his game 🙏
I never go anywhere else for help always easy to understand thank you.
Thank you so much for this video. I have just bought myself an e-bike and I want to work on it myself and this video has answered my question about how chains stretch.
Great explanation of chain "stretch" one thing that should be mentioned because so many people fall foul of this: *ALL 11 speed and over systems no matter how many chainrings and all very wide range MTB 1x systems (11-48+)* MUST have the chain replaced at 0.5% if you go to 0.75 on these systems you might as well replace the cassette at the same time.
Systems with a cassette of 10 cogs or less and low range 1x systems are fine to 0.75 and the cassette is ruined at 1%.
Ahh so that’s why my 10 year old chain works fine on my 3x7
@@MrFitness94 Yeah, not only does fewer gears/smaller range mean your chain can take more wear before it needs replacing, it will take way longer to reach that point. Also what can happen with older systems is that the whole drivetrain kind of wears in unison and continues to work even when it has gone past even the 1% mark. The only trade off is you might find when the chain does eventually fail you will have to replace the rest of the drivetrain because the teeth profiles on your cassette/freewheel chainrings and even jockey wheels are no longer a match for any new chain in existence LOL.
@@Bikey_McBeardface i can believe it. The whole drivetrain is probably cooked but it works amazing.
Marvellous video demonstration and mock up model! Thanks RJ.
Way to go, RJ !!! As usual, a "picture" (or model) is worth a thousand words. So, if someone asks me how a chain can "stretch", I'll just refer him to your vid.
Never have I clicked on a video faster. Another masterpiece 👍
Excellent! Until now I wasn't aware of the 1/2" distance between each link. Thanks.
Excellent explanation, the best I've seen so far.
I agree with Joel, by far the best video explaining chain stretch thank you
I was one of those folks that thought I was putting down so much power I was stretching the chain. This video corrected by delusions of grandeur. Thanks for dragging me back to planet earth.
Seriously….great video. I especially liked the visual you made. GCN would of simply made a fancy graphic, but I prefer the practical effects.
Well explained and demonstrated
Love your widgets and home tool fabrication. You are every person's bike answer.
P.s. I miss noting inventory of your background of Mt. Dew and Fresca while doing a rebuild in your sweatpants and house slippers, but I understand (winter in ny is REAL).
The easiets way to explain I could imagine! thank you!
Thank you for explaining this so well, I just measured my chain on my road bike from target that I've put quite a few thousand miles on in almost a decade of riding. You'll be happy to know it is only an ⅛ of an inch per foot stretched on the original chain. Might be time for a new one.
this is by far the best explanation out there. thanks for schooling me.
Awesome video RJ! A good guide for us mere casual riders and makes me appreciate bike maintenance (and cleaning) more. Cheers!
Great illustration of chain “stretch”.
Great description and visual of the topic!👍🏻
Nice job RJ.
Thank you for the explanation🔧🔧🔧
Holy shit. Thank you! Absolutely best video explaining chain stretch I've ever seen.
Great explanation, RJ. I approve, as a long time bike wrench myself.
I think you could've easily expanded this subject to the entire drive train, being that they interact so closely and how chain stretch effects other components too.
Well done!
What a great way to show and explain!
No wonder my chains wear out faster in the winter when the roads are wet and muddy. Great explanation.
Well done , best video ever on the chain stretch , enjoy the effects you put in . 👍🏾👍🏾
thank you for the mock-up! it explains the issue very clearly!
Nice explanation and having the large chain model was a great idea. It's too bad people started calling it chain stretch to begin with... a misnomer!
Great visual explanation! I’m always describing this to people in the hopes they keep their chains cleaned and lubed. Will refer them to this as well 👍
Great video. With the cost of labor and parts it is much much cheaper to replace a worn chain than replacing the chainring(s) and cassettes. I have found that spending more for a better chain (I use the higher grade with chromed plates and better rollers and pins) is well worth the extra cost because they seem to collect much less dirt and grit and seem to clean easier.
I can’t really see how the better chain can collect less dirt - unless it has a Klingon cloaking device that repels muck. But the quality of the components within it obviously affect how much wear takes place in use. Imagine a chain made from aluminium - wouldn’t last very long.
@@MarquitoRHMy guess is that the Chromed plates on my chains (and some chains are plated throughout) resist corrosion which puts tiny pits in the metal that hold dust and grit. When I wipe down the chain it seems to get much cleaner than regular non plated chains and leaves more dirt and lubricant on the rag which means that there is less dirt grinding away as I ride. There may also be a different electron charge that is not as electrostatic when plated. I can't claim to know all the science but it works for me.
Best explanation on chain wear. Thanks for the effort!
Excellent explanation of a worn chain
Great explanation and demonstration!
Excellent explanation, as always
Great video on the explanation of chain "wear". I would add that if a chain has extreme wear and is replaced with a new one, chances are the freewheel or cassette should be replaced at the same time or you'll get chain skipping especially on the smaller cogs where there is less wrap around on the cogs.
Some people falsely claim that new shift and brake cables "stretch" that is wrong, what happens is cables have to seat and compress the housing several times which sometimes requires you to adjust the cable anchor clamp bolt until it stops. Take care!
probably the best explanation of chain wear out there ;) ( or chain stretch as most call it )
Excellent explanation, was easy, even for me to understand (I speak Spanish) Thanks!
great visual explanation of chain stretch, rj!
Excellent explanation RJ. Thanks!
Hello Sir Rj, Your Explanation it's so Great, very informatted.Thank you.
This was a great detailed explanation. It makes me regret selling my budget bike to continue to learn on it and to apply it to the expensive bike.
I really appreciate the effort you put in to make this video, very helpful!
Thanks Regular Guy J the bike guy for all the great video's
Great explanation on chain wear. Thank you.
Thank you very much for that video. You explained it very very well. I love the chain model you made.
Very great explanation and demonstration, thanks. Have a nice day.
Best explanation ever. Thank you
Perfect explanation
Brilliance! Well done, sir.
Awesome explanation RJ!
Nice explanation ...great hand-made model!
Great illustration with your wooden pieces. Keep up the great work as always
Great visual aid, clarifies stretch easily
Hervorragend erklärt, danke. Perfectly explained, thank you.
Gruß, greetings Tino
Very nicely explained! Thank you 👍🏼
I already know this and understand it my self.
But many bikers/cyclist didn't actually know it technically.
It's a good thing you explained it very well and detailed.
Viewers will get much knowledge and help from you.
Great video!!! Thank u. Simple but very well explained.
Thanks for this very informative video, does it also happens on motorcycle chains?
Very well explained!! Great presentation on a common problem. Keep up the vids.
"Easy Lance Armstrong" - LMAO!
Thanks, that was a very good explanation and illustration. 💯
A brilliant explanation.
Excellent visualisation, makes things very clear for educational purposes.
Now you need to explain the consequences of riding on a worn chain and just how much of your drive train you will need to replace if you leave it too long, it is recommended to change the cassette/freewheel along with your chain but that's not always the case.
Excellent video and visual aids.
Missed one small addition... The roller that was excluded in the 'Wear' example... also wears.
Both the inside and outside of the roller - O - wears which adds to the gap between teeth.
The thickness of the roller becomes so thin that in cases (most of us have worn a chain until it breaks as a kid) the rollers actually become a - C - and fall off....
Hilarity usually ensues.
Proper lubrication of a chain gets lubricant into the space between this roller and the pin and allows the teeth to move the roller around the pin without wearing the pin away (Otherwise the roller would not be needed and they would make a chain with pins the size of the outside of the roller).
Lubricant on the outside of the chain is actually unimportant, especially on the outer sides) as it is doing nothing...
(except where some chain guides touch the outside of a chain rather than using an idler wheel like your derailleur)... You can wipe away external oil on a chain without any loss of lubrication to the chain drive.
The lubricant inside the roller is also then held against the pin and the hole in the inner plate shown to wear in the above example. 3:29
Some lubricant between the plates also help prevent friction.. but with cycle chains that are loose enough to twist etc, this is less of an issue... but does allow a larger gap for lubricant to "leak" out between the plates.
On good motorcycle chains they have o-rings over the pins between the plates & even sealing systems for the rollers, to keep lubricant inside the roller. (This is where a penetrating or even heated submerged lubrication of a chain is needed.) This system would make a cycle chain too wide for multi sprocket systems (and possibly too heavy for the purist) but may make an appearance for single chained geared systems... I'm watching that space.. (of course belts may do that task too)
Note: I use the word "Lubricant" rather than "Oil" as straight Oil is near useless on a chain, needing to be applied each ride as it just drips off.
A proper chain lubricant will be a grease or similar product, often with a penetrating/thining agent (and on some a foaming agent) to get the lubricant on and into every crevasse of a chain, but it also has "Sticky" properties (often 'drying out') to leave the lubricant stuck in place, rather than something that flows like oil.
Using normal Oil on a chain can wash sticky lubricant away, then drip off itself, leaving your chain dry.
Tip.... Motorcycle stores have some cheap chain lube and they have been trying to get that stuff to stick in high wear, hi heat, hi load, high speed situations for a LOOOONG time so it works.
(Personally I just use a penetrating spray grease as I have a lot of it in my workshop... HSS2000 but there are are plenty of similar (and definitely cheaper) chain lube products out therre... (You don't need a tiny bottle of platinum priced brand name product to do a good job).
"Dry Lube" products (i have some "ICE Wax" does a similar job... I'm on the fence a little on how it reacts to existing lubricant in the system.)
Suggestion.... The cheapest chains wear the quickest as the metal they use is more likely to be soft/cheap... spending that little bit more to get the chain on the upper shelf can save you money in chain/sprocket replacement.
q8D
- But don't take my word for it... I'm a maintenance engineer but run my own gear into the ground and am definitely a Mediocre rider (as my videos show).
- again... wow... I wrote all that ? ?
Not only did he leave out the roller, but modern bicycle chains do not use a separate bushing; each inner plate side has half a bushing as part of its design.
I'd argue not to buy the most expensive chains. They only make those lighter; lighter is not more durable. The middle-of-the-road chains (and cassettes) are best in terms of bang-for-the-buck.
@@trekkeruss Being a maintenance engineer and having had motorcycles/bicycles for the last 40 years of my life, I will go with a hardened chain over a cheap soft (usually low carbon) chain all the time. (and o-ring chain on any motorbike).
On trailbikes I found a standard chain would kill its sprockets in about a year of use (less if I was riding every fortnight. Harden chains, often triple that. (I got about 4 years out of my YZ250 2poke chain riding monthly.. and the chain/sprockets are still on it (Tho I haven't been riding it for several years now...).
I managed to get an expensive chromed chain to last 20 years on my Foes.. not hard ridden, but a weekend road warrior over that period).
This is the same reason you don't buy cheap screwdrivers etc from E-Bay... Plasticine has a higher carbon content!
@@TheButlerNZ I am going with my 40+ years of experience as a professional bicycle mechanic. Motorcycle chains is a different animal altogether and not very relevant in comparison. There is not a huge gap in durability between name-brand bicycle chains. Not saying none, but the lube and how chain is maintained is far more important than materials in terms of wear. But I do agree that no-name chains (and many other bicycle components) from Amazon/eBay/AliExpress etc. will be junk and should be avoided.
Another excellent video RJ, I never saw a better explanation. Thanks 👍👍
Nice to see ya back the bike guy.
Wow this was extremely interesting. Never seen this explained before.
Best explanation ever!
A great explanation. Thank you!
Your videos very informative.Keep going on.Good luck.