It does, but I did put it on the wrong this video. @8:43 I realized what you mentioned here luckily when i put them on the bike some time later. Chris thanks for pointing it out, i appreciate it and pinned the comment so anyone else watching will see it.
Well spotted ... Choke cable clamp bracket has been fitted to the wrong carb ... hence the confusion with having an odd screw on the last carb top, this odd screw is for the choke clamp bracket on 2nd carb from left, also missing is a steel sleeve for the odd screw in 2nd carb top. ... He'll obviously have figured out his error when the choke cable wouldn't fit ...lol.. not a bad job to say he's no mechanic.
Thanks, I have a FZ1 that has set for a few yrs, just looked up Ivan a week ago, great timing. I removed the air system awhile back. Hope my floats look that good.
@@DeWoodysShop thank you again. also your other video are very useful. Just one question, did you mode your airbox too? If so, do you have any video or photo of the result please? i am not sure what should it be done exactly. Many thanks
Is it possible to feel the bit tighten but not drill through? How do you visually check if the drill went all the way through? I am installing this kit right now as well and concerned I didn't drill deep enough.
You can feel it. The point is mostly just to clear the hole but not make it large once the big is in. you should be able to see it cut the new whole also. the alumin is pretty thin right there so it goes through pretty quick.
If you go to harbor freight, they’ll tell you that they don’t have one. If you ho to the watch tool repair section, there’s a kit that includes a pin vice. Another option might be to use the tube off of a carb cleaner spray can. The drill bit fits into that. So you could super glue the drill bit into the spray tube. Another option for the desperate would be to use the drill bit to drill a hole into the end of a Chinese food chopstick, then put the drill in base first and super glue it. Failing to include this in the jet kit basically insures that most will be running around frustrated looking for a pin vice, which will prove difficult to find. Other things to consider is replacing the float valve O rings while you’re in there, since they’re 20 years old and they do fail. Sudco seemed to indicate that these carbs are Yamaha proprietary, and that they only have the float bowl gaskets to sell. I think that they quoted $3.50 each. I also modified the main center spring anchor. If you pry the hooked tab off of the round retainer post.
You can pry the fat throttle return spring off it’s mount. You can then safety wire the spring retainer to set the throttle resistance to a softer setting. This, along with either changing the handlebars to an emgo superbike bar, (less pull back and less wrist angle) improves ergonomics and reduces fatigue on long rides. The stock bars can be heated up with an oxy acetylene torch and bent to a better position too. Doing so gives the added benefits of bar end anchors to mount heavy throttlemeister like bar ends. The vibration reduction increases comfort too.
@@DeWoodysShop That's really good to know, thanks! I've got a similarly cheap one, it sounds like, and wasn't sure it would be sufficient. The jet kit install is going to be, by far, my most ambitious work on my own motorcycle, so I'm trying to set myself up for success!
@@fredsmith3963 yeah really a roller with mm would even be fine. But a cheap caliber is plenty. I also always check my cheap calipers on some standards I have. Some are better than others from the same stack. If I'm honest I have even tested them in harbor freight. Lol
Thank you for this video! I have been really considering the ivans kit and you pretty much just made up my mind. Does your 04 have a slip on? Do ya know if ivan has different kits for the different slip on types or ya think its all the same? On a side note...😅 what ya charge to do this lol😂
Personally I love my jet kit. It opened the bike up. There are two different kits one for just a standard slip on. That would probably be the best option, and I don't think you have to do the drilling. The other kit is what I have but I have ported intake books, head, and r1 intake cam and cdi. Unfortunately I am back logged a couple of years on any jobs right now...
@@DeWoodysShop yeah i have the yoshi rs-3 stainless on mine, was gonna do the ported intake boots as well with the invans kit ( may as well since i already have the carbs out haha) im just a lil skeptical about drilling my carbs out. I dont wanna mess it up lol. Ive studied Pat's page about the gen 1 fz1 but still not sure i want to take that risk. I net i could get it done without incident but would just rather not take that risk personally😂can i ask your advice about a fair price for a job like this? Just the labor i would have parts n such already. Just so i know to really look for😅
Another Ivans jet kit how too vid that's wrong, not your fault bro, you're only following Ivans crude destructions ... Ivan's made a few errors in the instructions, (before drilling out the air bypass holes) Mixture screws / springs/washers/O-rings ... "MUST BE REMOVED" drilling swarf will enter the bypass circuit, all holes must be washed out with brake cleaner solvent & blown clean with compressed air, also ensure mixture screw port threads are wiped clean of any swarf as swarf can still get lodged within the mixture screw threads ... Then & only then install the mixture screw assemblies & reset to 3.25 turns out for UK spec fuel anymore & idle will be way too rich & choke will be unusable, bike will drink fuel as it's way too rich & can be difficult to start on a hot motor as 5 turns out is like giving it half choke, which a hot motor won't tolerate ... 5 turns out may work better with USA fuel, but I strongly suspect it'll still be too rich & there's the added risk of mixture screws vibrating loose as spring tension is too low, if 5 turns works best for your available fuel, I suggest stretching out the mixture screw springs a couple of millimetres to keep adequate tension on the screws ... I've since determined that drilling out only 1 bypass hole in each carb (nearest throttle butterfly) is enough to enrichen the idle circuit adequately ... hats off to Ivan for spending untold hrs testing needles & jet combinations ... porting out the carb mounts will bring extra BHP as will cutting away the airbox lid inner cowling as per the pic in the jet kit, also a sports air filter like a Pipercross or K&N, I've found Pipercross to work well, K&N are over rated IMHO ... reset TPS as per shop manual, synch carbs, reset EXUP valve & you've got a missile of a bike, that's close to R1 performance but way more tractable thru the whole rev range.
You make some good points. Ivan has determined that the fuel screws don’t come out at 5 turns. You could put some rtv cement into the orifice, or put the removed brass plugs back in.
Does your choke work? You put your bracket on the wrong diaphragm cover, and are pulling the choke assembly the wrong way.
It does, but I did put it on the wrong this video. @8:43 I realized what you mentioned here luckily when i put them on the bike some time later. Chris thanks for pointing it out, i appreciate it and pinned the comment so anyone else watching will see it.
Well spotted ... Choke cable clamp bracket has been fitted to the wrong carb ... hence the confusion with having an odd screw on the last carb top, this odd screw is for the choke clamp bracket on 2nd carb from left, also missing is a steel sleeve for the odd screw in 2nd carb top. ... He'll obviously have figured out his error when the choke cable wouldn't fit ...lol.. not a bad job to say he's no mechanic.
Thanks, I have a FZ1 that has set for a few yrs, just looked up Ivan a week ago, great timing. I removed the air system awhile back. Hope my floats look that good.
Well it was after i had already cleaned them, but the bike has always been used some so it never had extremely long periods just sitting.
Thanks for taking the time to upload this. Really helping me go through the Fazer I just bought.
When I finally stop procrastinating about doing the sanding and get on the paint (repainting the fz1) I will get videos putting it all back together.
@@DeWoodysShop Looking forward to that! Yeah I just bought one with 120000 miles on, so I'm going through all of your video's.
many thanks for this very useful video and information! I am planning purchase and instal the Ivans jet kit
Awesome, and i have been very happy with mine. It really opened it up.
@@DeWoodysShop thank you again. also your other video are very useful. Just one question, did you mode your airbox too? If so, do you have any video or photo of the result please? i am not sure what should it be done exactly.
Many thanks
@@kraalicek46 Check here, it should help. thewolftamer71.blogspot.com/2010/08/fz1-mod-ravenrider-jet-kit.html
Is it possible to feel the bit tighten but not drill through? How do you visually check if the drill went all the way through?
I am installing this kit right now as well and concerned I didn't drill deep enough.
You can feel it. The point is mostly just to clear the hole but not make it large once the big is in. you should be able to see it cut the new whole also. the alumin is pretty thin right there so it goes through pretty quick.
Wondering why ivan would want less fuel in the bowl?
From what i have read about it, it fixes the rich midrange spot the fz1 have.
Did you ever put a video up of synching the carbs for Ivan's jet kit on the FZ1?
Kinda, Its at the end of the series th-cam.com/video/QTDgenURCZs/w-d-xo.html
Where did you get the pen vice drill thingy lol?
I think just off amazon. drill bits came with the Ivans kit.
If you go to harbor freight, they’ll tell you that they don’t have one. If you ho to the watch tool repair section, there’s a kit that includes a pin vice. Another option might be to use the tube off of a carb cleaner spray can. The drill bit fits into that. So you could super glue the drill bit into the spray tube. Another option for the desperate would be to use the drill bit to drill a hole into the end of a Chinese food chopstick, then put the drill in base first and super glue it. Failing to include this in the jet kit basically insures that most will be running around frustrated looking for a pin vice, which will prove difficult to find. Other things to consider is replacing the float valve O rings while you’re in there, since they’re 20 years old and they do fail. Sudco seemed to indicate that these carbs are Yamaha proprietary, and that they only have the float bowl gaskets to sell. I think that they quoted $3.50 each. I also modified the main center spring anchor. If you pry the hooked tab off of the round retainer post.
You can pry the fat throttle return spring off it’s mount. You can then safety wire the spring retainer to set the throttle resistance to a softer setting. This, along with either changing the handlebars to an emgo superbike bar, (less pull back and less wrist angle) improves ergonomics and
reduces fatigue on long rides. The stock bars can be heated up with an oxy acetylene torch and bent to a better position too. Doing so gives the added benefits of bar end anchors to mount heavy throttlemeister like bar ends. The vibration reduction increases comfort too.
Thank you for this!
What caliper do you use?
Those are just some harbor freight cheaper ones. plenty for this job.
@@DeWoodysShop That's really good to know, thanks! I've got a similarly cheap one, it sounds like, and wasn't sure it would be sufficient. The jet kit install is going to be, by far, my most ambitious work on my own motorcycle, so I'm trying to set myself up for success!
@@fredsmith3963 yeah really a roller with mm would even be fine. But a cheap caliber is plenty. I also always check my cheap calipers on some standards I have. Some are better than others from the same stack. If I'm honest I have even tested them in harbor freight. Lol
Strangely my carbs are also missing the choke screw on #2. Coincidence?
May have been designed that way, or the vibrations tend to make that one fall out?
Haha well mine is missing too🤷😂
Mine is also missing.
Apparently only 3 screws are installed at the factory; the parts list for these screws lists a qty of 3.
My 2000 mile 2002 has 3 screws - as did a spare set i bought
Thank you for this video! I have been really considering the ivans kit and you pretty much just made up my mind.
Does your 04 have a slip on? Do ya know if ivan has different kits for the different slip on types or ya think its all the same?
On a side note...😅 what ya charge to do this lol😂
Personally I love my jet kit. It opened the bike up. There are two different kits one for just a standard slip on. That would probably be the best option, and I don't think you have to do the drilling. The other kit is what I have but I have ported intake books, head, and r1 intake cam and cdi. Unfortunately I am back logged a couple of years on any jobs right now...
@@DeWoodysShop yeah i have the yoshi rs-3 stainless on mine, was gonna do the ported intake boots as well with the invans kit ( may as well since i already have the carbs out haha) im just a lil skeptical about drilling my carbs out. I dont wanna mess it up lol. Ive studied Pat's page about the gen 1 fz1 but still not sure i want to take that risk. I net i could get it done without incident but would just rather not take that risk personally😂can i ask your advice about a fair price for a job like this? Just the labor i would have parts n such already. Just so i know to really look for😅
Super ✌️
Thanks ✌️
Another Ivans jet kit how too vid that's wrong, not your fault bro, you're only following Ivans crude destructions ... Ivan's made a few errors in the instructions, (before drilling out the air bypass holes) Mixture screws / springs/washers/O-rings ... "MUST BE REMOVED" drilling swarf will enter the bypass circuit, all holes must be washed out with brake cleaner solvent & blown clean with compressed air, also ensure mixture screw port threads are wiped clean of any swarf as swarf can still get lodged within the mixture screw threads ... Then & only then install the mixture screw assemblies & reset to 3.25 turns out for UK spec fuel anymore & idle will be way too rich & choke will be unusable, bike will drink fuel as it's way too rich & can be difficult to start on a hot motor as 5 turns out is like giving it half choke, which a hot motor won't tolerate ... 5 turns out may work better with USA fuel, but I strongly suspect it'll still be too rich & there's the added risk of mixture screws vibrating loose as spring tension is too low, if 5 turns works best for your available fuel, I suggest stretching out the mixture screw springs a couple of millimetres to keep adequate tension on the screws ... I've since determined that drilling out only 1 bypass hole in each carb (nearest throttle butterfly) is enough to enrichen the idle circuit adequately ... hats off to Ivan for spending untold hrs testing needles & jet combinations ... porting out the carb mounts will bring extra BHP as will cutting away the airbox lid inner cowling as per the pic in the jet kit, also a sports air filter like a Pipercross or K&N, I've found Pipercross to work well, K&N are over rated IMHO ... reset TPS as per shop manual, synch carbs, reset EXUP valve & you've got a missile of a bike, that's close to R1 performance but way more tractable thru the whole rev range.
Where are you located ? I need mine doing
You make some good points. Ivan has determined that the fuel screws don’t come out at 5 turns. You could put some rtv cement into the orifice, or put the removed brass plugs back in.
@@bikelife1389 Hi ... I'm in the UK, motorcycle Master Tech working from home.