After spending weeks trying to follow the directions for a waistcoat in a well-known but unedited and error-filled book from the 1800s, I learned my lesson. I have a dress form, and so I just drape muslin, or even tracing paper, judging the style lines by eye only, and then make the pattern from the drape. It is so much more fun, as well as accurate. I am still learning, but eventually will be able to copy any reasonable style, at least from 1890 and after.
You really understand what you are doing, this is exactly what I'm looking right now. Basics and fundamental on cutting as the new comer, especial on parts with high mobility like sleeves
Oh boy, this has been all my struggle with cutting books. My aim is to learn basic pattern cutting in order to weave in my style ideas into the patterns directly. What's happened instead is I found out during construction that something doesn't quite work, and I could have taken a different "turn" during drafting in order to make my life much easier. You breaking down drafting into a systematic way is quite extraordinary and new, in contrast to "just try something at random and see if it works."
I fully agree with you and understand the frustration! There seems to be no plain and basic “no opinion” system. We’re working on it as we speak😉 Soon available for the entire world.
I know you read it because you almost name dropped it, but for anyone reading this: the first chapters of Stone's Advanced Superlative System for coats and vests over on the Internet Archive have a very interesting discussion on proportion and how it relates to height and chest measurement and how that in turn affects the grid on which the system drafts a coat. Having dug into it claims about human proportion deeper, though, I can say that it's not...precisely "correct" and the diagrams given are not exactly representational, merely illustrative. The base draft makes shockingly close fitted patterns. The corresponding book on women's coats and jackets features a "proportionate" average female body that is actually kinda representative. All the books in that series are poorly organized and occasionally feature typos, with drafts titled by lithographic plate number (!). *the opinion of a hobbyist*
Whoops! You said it Mike😉 Styles and physiques have changed as well. I do know what you mean. Unfortunately a proportional devision of the human body is not always the best approach for an individual figure. Even after “posture” changes to the pattern.
What I am looking for, I know drafting and pattern manipulation all that wonderful for women. But nothing past trousers for men. When I went through tailoring school all we were taught and done was one men's trouser. Everything else from commercial patterns, which will not necessarily work here. I got asked to make a suit for one guy for his wedding, also had the bride as well (which would have made awkward), but there would have been no way I could find a pattern large enough to even alter to fit him. Drafting would have been the best way. Luckily, he found a suit and I did not have to worry about how I was going to hide the dress while fitting him in my small building. But only a matter of time.
After spending weeks trying to follow the directions for a waistcoat in a well-known but unedited and error-filled book from the 1800s, I learned my lesson. I have a dress form, and so I just drape muslin, or even tracing paper, judging the style lines by eye only, and then make the pattern from the drape. It is so much more fun, as well as accurate. I am still learning, but eventually will be able to copy any reasonable style, at least from 1890 and after.
You really understand what you are doing, this is exactly what I'm looking right now. Basics and fundamental on cutting as the new comer, especial on parts with high mobility like sleeves
Thank you! More to come! :)
Reza.
Oh boy, this has been all my struggle with cutting books. My aim is to learn basic pattern cutting in order to weave in my style ideas into the patterns directly. What's happened instead is I found out during construction that something doesn't quite work, and I could have taken a different "turn" during drafting in order to make my life much easier.
You breaking down drafting into a systematic way is quite extraordinary and new, in contrast to "just try something at random and see if it works."
I fully agree with you and understand the frustration! There seems to be no plain and basic “no opinion” system. We’re working on it as we speak😉 Soon available for the entire world.
I know you read it because you almost name dropped it, but for anyone reading this: the first chapters of Stone's Advanced Superlative System for coats and vests over on the Internet Archive have a very interesting discussion on proportion and how it relates to height and chest measurement and how that in turn affects the grid on which the system drafts a coat. Having dug into it claims about human proportion deeper, though, I can say that it's not...precisely "correct" and the diagrams given are not exactly representational, merely illustrative. The base draft makes shockingly close fitted patterns. The corresponding book on women's coats and jackets features a "proportionate" average female body that is actually kinda representative. All the books in that series are poorly organized and occasionally feature typos, with drafts titled by lithographic plate number (!).
*the opinion of a hobbyist*
Whoops! You said it Mike😉
Styles and physiques have changed as well.
I do know what you mean. Unfortunately a proportional devision of the human body is not always the best approach for an individual figure. Even after “posture” changes to the pattern.
It is very good one I like it ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks Reza.
Very good one, please help me to get it on PDF
Here you go!
www.internationalschooloftailoring.com/tailoring-books
What I am looking for, I know drafting and pattern manipulation all that wonderful for women. But nothing past trousers for men. When I went through tailoring school all we were taught and done was one men's trouser. Everything else from commercial patterns, which will not necessarily work here. I got asked to make a suit for one guy for his wedding, also had the bride as well (which would have made awkward), but there would have been no way I could find a pattern large enough to even alter to fit him. Drafting would have been the best way. Luckily, he found a suit and I did not have to worry about how I was going to hide the dress while fitting him in my small building. But only a matter of time.
So, which ones you've found best in explaining whys and getting understanding? Beginner here :)
Unfortunately nothing comes to mind. Most books are instructive and not elaborative.
What is it that you’re trying to learn?