If you would like to support the channel : 🔴For a comprehensive list of all my tools - www.start-making.com/tools 🔴For Blogs and more - www.start-making.com The LASER UK LINK -uk.xtool.com/?ref=MQl4cVgSo0t3m& Thank you for watching.
What I find welcoming with your videos if you give alternatives to other tools that people might not have, clearly you have these and could do it a lot easier but you choose to show people how to do it with alternatives and I think that's a good thing because not everybody has your budget or mine and it's enabling people who can not afford a vast variety of tools. Thats the reason I subscribed. Empathy. Not enough people have this nowadays
Hi Mark I saw this tip elsewhere- Two sticks of plywood- joined at 90 degree’s - sandpaper on one side, for dressing square edges.!!! … works a treat for cleaning up drawers, cabinet front faces, or any square edge really..😁💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
I do something similar for scale model making and sharpening my micro chisels (same price or more as full size ones but go from 0.03mm to 3mm), often I will put two grades on with enough difference in grit count to be obvious by touch. I find using 12mm perspex to be really good as you get two perfectly flat surfaces
i have been using the paints stick from home depot. for the 1 gallons and 5 gallon drums. on those i have fr 2 to 6 differen grits on them. the rubber floats for tiles work equally well too. shelf pins work well form small dog hole pins
That is a great idea. In fact they all are. I didnt think about making smaller dog holes and in fact you have just given me a potential peg board idea. thank you
I make 2 kinds of sandpaper rasps usually out of 3” belt sander belts. The thin 1/4” ones are like yours coarse/fine. The thicker ones I square up a block and glue/clamp sandpaper to the wider side, then fold the overhanging sandpaper and glue it to the adjacent right angle side. Decent belt sander belts will last a long time. Finally to trim the excess on the clear wood sides, I rasp it clear or power sand trying to preserve the right angle 📐 . I also keep both long ends clear so the wood can be waxed and ride on any type of quick duty fence. Occasionally I wax the bench side of the wood rasp and slide it back and forth like a sanding machine against the surface I need to work.
One of the biggest game changers for me when it came to sanding was to get a crepe stick and use it to clean the sand paper. The paper will cut better and last much longer.
On the long reach clamp there is no need to file off the stop. If you virtually finish the wooden extension arms you can assemble them around the clamp.
this is very true. The reason I did it is lack of trust in my build. I didnt want to end up gluing it on the clamp and then not being able to take it off. But you are spot on.
I like the tip for extending the clamp reach Mark. I also agree with you on the Jorgensen clamps, much better than the cheaper ones I bought from my local Germanic supermarket. Good video as always 👍👍
Jorgensen got bought out by the Chinese in 2016. So it's not the same company anymore. Them and Pony are gone now. They sailed on a junk to the land of junks. There's a lot of that going on these days.
FWIW, I have been able arrange long reach clamping without making the jaws. The jaws are very cool and looks to be worth the effort My way is to have a caul long enough to span a distance from the edge of the subject board to where you want to apply pressure. Put a spacer on a clamp near that edge, and another clamp on a spacer where you want to apply pressure. When you tighten the clamp you get a lot of pressure near the edge and less pressure out where you want to apply and clamp some wood in a glue up. You can increase the pressure out away from the clamp by increasing the thickness of the spacer out there. I often use a set of playing cards to be part of all of that spacer. You can do similar things if you have a curved caul that spans acro#s a board that I want to press out in the middle of the board. I have a bunch of curved cauls ready made in various lengths. A clamp on one side of the board and another clamp on the other side, and you will have pressure out in the middle of the board. Again, you can add card stock along the caul to adjust where you want max pressure.
Mark, great information. 👍👍👍 Passing good info found somewhere else is a good thing. More people get to hear it. 🌞 FYI: The, grippy net, shelf liner is also good for opening jars. Cut two pieces, one 100mm x 400mm, to wrap around the jar and another 140mm x 140mm, to grab the lid. Your wife will love it and so will you, for that next jar of pickles. ( the 400mm piece is to accommodate larger jars ) P.S.: For lids that are Really nasty, a plumber's strap wrench really come in handy. 👍 Cheers. 😁✌🖖
opening jars, wow, great advise. I used to have one of those wrenches somewhere. Dont know where it came from or where it actually is. Somewhere no doubt lol.
Hi Mark, some good ideas there ,I like the F clamp extension brilliant idea, sanding blocks are a great idea I have made them but I do like the sanding sticks using lolly pop sticks that is good. I use old plastic ketchup and mayo bottles as glue bottles a good use of recycling another thing I use to keep things wrapped up cables string rope I strip down mains cable off cuts 1.0mm 2.5mm twin and earth ,cut about 15-20cm just wrap around bunch up cable and twist together. As always full of good tips and ideas great video Take care
Hi Shaun. Great to hear from you What a clever idea with the wire. I love the bottle idea too. My glue bot is good for smaller glue ups but impossible for larger areas. I think I need to incorporate this into the next one.
The tips are great. I have one of the palm sanders that you can attach sanding disks. It never occurred to me to have several dedicated to different grits. So I used the link and ordered a couple. Thanks!
I have taken the 1X24 sanding belt and cut a 1” by 11.75 to 12” piece of wood and slid it into the belt. Adjust the length of the wood until it will just slide in. You’re all set. I have not needed to use any type of fastening.
Duct Tape is metal foil with a peel off backing. There's a good chance you've never seen the stuff. Tell a HVAC guy that duck tape is duct tape and he'll give you an earful. It's a pet peeve of theirs.
@@dougdavidson175 I've only worked with HVAC guys but I've gotten the earful. It is a topic they can really carry on about though. Why using duck tape on ducts is the mark of a true hack, etc. The real stuff sticks and stays a lot better. I have seen what they're talking about. Why duck tape looks like duct tape is due to bias. Originally the tape was olive drab. But when the boys came home from the war none of them wanted to see that color ever again. They still liked that handy tape though. So duck tape got a makeover to make it more palatable for the civilian market. It being the dawn of the Space Age that futuristic silver gray is what they went with.
@@startmaking1 yeah the name change is likely because people wanted to forget what the tape was originally developed for. That coupled with the civilian color change and it was convergence. If you use duck tape on a duct the tape will deteriorate and you'll just have the cloth backing which will look like mummy wrapping linens hanging off the duct. I've seen it. Real duct tape is actual metal foil with an adhesive backing and a peel off layer. It doesn't do the mummy thing.
Hi. Like the sanding sticks idea. I got some cheap sandpaper as a present for Christmas so might use that. For the f clamps idea, I think I'd be lazy and get two straight pieces of wood and put blue tape on them in different lengths e.g. from 0 to 100%, 10% to 90%. 20% to 80% etc to put a slight curve on the edge. Then, in theory at least 😃, when you clamp both ends it should put more pressure on the middle replicating what you are doing with the large clamp. I must admit, I've never tried it but that would be my initial goto for this issue. Keep up the great work!
Cheap sandpaper is never a bargain. If you have to sand then use the best sandpaper you can get. I like 3M myself. I've had cheap sandpaper that was like rags with sand in it. Real sandpaper isn't made out of sand. It's aluminum oxide or ceramics. Sometimes silicon carbide.
Keep your glues, opened mastic tubes, spray paints and finishes in a cool box, add some draft excluder to the lip for a good seal and as many silica gel packets you can find in the bottom (or dry rice) to control humidity, and you have a constant climate all year round (helps in summer too) and greatly extended working life of opened mastic tubes if they set in air like filler or water like pu glue
@@startmaking1it's saved my bacon a few times and reduced wastage for me, as I find I can just decant into a jar and not worry if I get interrupted as I can come back an hour (days sometimes depending on what it is) or 2 later and it's still usable. Bonus tip keep a roll of cling film in workshop, then use it cover anything you want air tight like you do a paint roller, open mastic tubes mainly I use it for, or opened fillers, it's also useful for a quick surface protector during glue ups
The cling film tip is a life saver for me too. I use it on every brush I use. My ADHD personality doest let me finish most jobs in one hit so it is priceless.
Use kitty litter instead of desiccant. Cheaper, available in fairly large quantities. Yes, it’s the same thing - silica gel. Before anyone asks, use fresh, unused, clean kitty litter… that does NOT have cat shit in it…
In the US, the cheap F-clamps have blue handles, and come from Harbor Freight. Once you are familiar with them you begin to notice that many of the most popular Woodworking You Tubers have a lot of them, even people who go for the most expensive power tools. It's kind of funny to see Festool and Harbor Freight in the same shot.
I have a scraper I use to clean up those inside corners. Sanding there is a nightmare. You need a long scraper with a flared hook end. I have an old Cornwell but they don't make it anymore. I found something vaguely similar called a Eight 20156 Skilletools XXL Scrape and Dab Tool. I try to minimize how much I sand wood as much as I can. Because sanding kinda sucks to do. Working wood with steel edge tools is the big brain move. But scraping is a skill. You have to scrape with the grain. You have to know how to sharpen your scraper too.
This is smart. I love using my cabinet scraper, leaves such a clean finish. Totally different to sanding. Sharpening is key, you are right and not catching the corners.
@@startmaking1 I don't sharpen my handled scraper like it is a card scraper though. I just sharpen it on a bench grinder. Bench grinders are next level woodworking tools. You can woodwork without one but at some point to go further they're essential. I don't know if anyone needs 7 like I have but one for sure. I hollow grind all of my chisels and plane irons. It makes honing them so much easier. Grinding is a discipline on its own.
I agree. I see the hollow grind and know it is the future or the now. Whichever way you look. But my grinder is too cheap and nasty for that. It is good for removing enough steel to get a chip out but past that I dont think I could get the accuracy,. Maybe in time.
@@startmaking1 If you're going all in with hand tool woodworking I'd say a good bench grinder is an asset. I wouldn't be without one now. But poor quality grinders can have issues. If the spindle shoulders and washers aren't true that can cause run out issues. I've seen people file them some. Beyond that you need to know about dressing stones. You have to do that even on good grinders. I need an angle adjustable tool rest to get a good bevel grind myself too. I've seen folks freehand that. I wouldn't recommend that technique. There's higher quality stones available too. Tool room wheels. Your run of the mill blue aluminum oxide wheel isn't ideal. So grinding can get involved. Wet wheel setups can cost a lot. I grind dry. But I dip cool often.
Ding ding ding we have a winner!! Awesome video m8 love those tips can't agree more about the cheap red clamps although the cheap German supermarket brand ones are actually really good ave not had any issues with them. On the sanding trick's something ave stsrted using for the lathe but been reaching for them for other jobs aswell 2 inch sanding discs you get like 200 for about 8 quid on ebay also comes with a Arbor for drill and backer pad they've worked really well for me. Nice laser plug 😂 although making me jealous again and cementing that a need get one. You could potentially do those clamp templates on there aswel maybe?? Catch up uo soon m8👍🏴
Thank you mate. I saw the Link. Looks like the larger one I have but a little better made. I bet it makes a mess but then you are using it on the lathe so I guess a mess is a given. You would laugh. I spend an entire day trying to make the clamp things on the laser. could not design the image well enough. Drove me nuts.
@@startmaking1 honestly I haven't used the actual Arbor part on the drill with the pads ave only ever used the small discs yea on the lathe and for little bits of hand sanding rather than folding discs or sheets of paper. I need to make a clamp rack finally got tidied up in shop today didn't realise a had so many. There are 9 bar clamps 12 small f clamps 6 large f clamps and about 6 g clamps. Need get similar thing to what you've made. Am surprised you couldn't manage to sort the file out for the laser although a suspect it would of drove u nuts. Speak soon
I was just about to suggest the craft/popsicle sticks as I was watching, and then you beat me to it 😆 And while it won't be as pretty as the fancy ones you buy online, you can always use scraps of framing lumber (e.g., in America, a 2x4, not sure what y'all use in metric ;p) cut to 5-6 inches to attach your sandpaper (probably even the old orbital sander disks) to. You *will* probably want to do something a little fancier than what we did for Cub Scouts with stapling the paper to the blocks, though, so you can replace it easier ;)
My sanding tip is don't sand wood. You should really be working wood with woodworking tools. Planes, chisels, scrapers, spokeshaves, those kinds of things. Steel edged tools. Cut the wood, don't abrade it.
Nice tips video. Heavily cambered cowls work well for reaching into the middle of a board too as do extended screw clamps. I love the "Best Blocks for Demanding Sanding" as made by Next Level Carpentry. They are awesome. Love the small sanding strips as well, they are so easy to use. I use several small cleats on the side of my bench to hold tools rather than magnets (don't like magnetising my diamond stones with flux from the tools). Paul Sellars has a tool well on the other side of his bench I believe. Totes work well too and are portable as tool storage/holding. Treebangham has a cool video on a tote build. Hope this helps someone.
Hi Ian. I actually made some of these a while ago using blue tape. I am kicking myself for not including them. Maybe next video. I will have to check out the blocks thing. I noticed that my diamond stones were being affected by the chisels being held on magnets. I have to find the best solution for the new work bench. I may just stick to cleats on the side for now. We will see. Appreciate the advice as always .
Do you think you could use curved bed slats as cowls? How did the magnetism effect the stones? I asked James Wright if he had ever considered the principle. He was interested in the problem. I think magnets are ok for hard point saws where you are never going to sharpen them although I still think I will avoid it for now. I'll send a photo of the blocks I use via IM asap. @@startmaking1
I dont think that the stones are affected directly. Ie they aren't damaged by the filings but I do notice that my plates rust a lot. I have to imagine that it is because I cant just wipe off the filings like I normally would as they are stuck more firmly.
Have you considered degousing the stones as that might allow you to remove any hidden fillings and clean the stones. I keep my stones out in the garage and they have not rusted at all, I clean them every time I use them and dry them with an eraser/rubber then pack them away until next time. Might be worth a try. Hope this helps pal.@@startmaking1
I will give it a try. In truth mine are very battered. I really need to upgrade from my beginner set to something a little more tuned in. These are great for starting out but I find I am one grit level away from super sharp.
Wish I cud support your chanel rkid but I'm skint at the mo still glad you do vids tho tips are grate you can never get anuf lol keep up the good work rkid love your vids 👍
Hi Mark, Great video. I really like the Duck Tape trick. That's really going to help. Looking forward to seeing your workbench build in a future video too. I saw you using it for a couple of the extra takes. Although, there's something quite reassuring about you doing woodwork on your old table... More in touch with your original fan base from your old shed days. Not against progress, though! Bring on the build (it looks exactly like the type I want to make, right down to the 7492 at the end.
Hey bud. Thank you. I was sad to lose the old cabinet that I called a work bench. But dont worry, it is still in the shop somewhere. The new bench looks advanced from the top but it is super easy to build. just 2 by 4s, ply and a laminate top. Sadly, I have to progress as my skills grow and the tools I need come into the workshop. That said I have to find a way to keep doing projects that use minimal tools like the box made only with a hand saw. Those are what I find fun in. PS the Dewalt is pricey, especially the one with the 250mm blade but wow, it is great right out of the box. Very impressed.
Oh Richard. Ironically it is good that I am here to explain what you missed. You glue and then break it to see if the glue fails or the wood. With glue that is still good, the wood fibres will break. If the glue is bad, it will fail. I hope that makes sense.
If you would like to support the channel :
🔴For a comprehensive list of all my tools - www.start-making.com/tools
🔴For Blogs and more - www.start-making.com
The LASER
UK LINK -uk.xtool.com/?ref=MQl4cVgSo0t3m&
Thank you for watching.
What I find welcoming with your videos if you give alternatives to other tools that people might not have, clearly you have these and could do it a lot easier but you choose to show people how to do it with alternatives and I think that's a good thing because not everybody has your budget or mine and it's enabling people who can not afford a vast variety of tools. Thats the reason I subscribed. Empathy. Not enough people have this nowadays
Thank you. I am glad you got what I was trying to do here. It's hard watching channels with every tool available. It can be discouraging.
Wow man, this clamp extension save my life, thanks a lot
Than you very much.
Hi Mark I saw this tip elsewhere- Two sticks of plywood- joined at 90 degree’s - sandpaper on one side, for dressing square edges.!!! … works a treat for cleaning up drawers, cabinet front faces, or any square edge really..😁💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
That is a really good idea. For some reason I had to read your comment a few times to figure it out lol. Think I have it now.
I do something similar for scale model making and sharpening my micro chisels (same price or more as full size ones but go from 0.03mm to 3mm), often I will put two grades on with enough difference in grit count to be obvious by touch. I find using 12mm perspex to be really good as you get two perfectly flat surfaces
Glue some sandpaper around that dowel for inside curves.
Great tips, thank you.
Now that is a great idea.
Love the sandpaper tips. So good!👍
I appreciate that. Thank you.
i have been using the paints stick from home depot. for the 1 gallons and 5 gallon drums. on those i have fr 2 to 6 differen grits on them. the rubber floats for tiles work equally well too. shelf pins work well form small dog hole pins
That is a great idea. In fact they all are. I didnt think about making smaller dog holes and in fact you have just given me a potential peg board idea. thank you
The long clamp is a brilliant idea
Thank you very much.
Wonderful tips! Especially the velvet on magnetic bars and tape for the sandpaper! Love it!
Thank you very much. Very kind. The sort of things that loads of people know already but there may be one thing that helps.
I make 2 kinds of sandpaper rasps usually out of 3” belt sander belts. The thin 1/4” ones are like yours coarse/fine. The thicker ones I square up a block and glue/clamp sandpaper to the wider side, then fold the overhanging sandpaper and glue it to the adjacent right angle side. Decent belt sander belts will last a long time. Finally to trim the excess on the clear wood sides, I rasp it clear or power sand trying to preserve the right angle 📐 . I also keep both long ends clear so the wood can be waxed and ride on any type of quick duty fence. Occasionally I wax the bench side of the wood rasp and slide it back and forth like a sanding machine against the surface I need to work.
Brilliant advice. Thank you for sharing. I feel like we are quite similar in our methods of making something that does a job.
One of the biggest game changers for me when it came to sanding was to get a crepe stick and use it to clean the sand paper. The paper will cut better and last much longer.
this is some advice I was wanting to put in this video but it was running long. It will be in the next. I actually saw someone once use a flip flop.
On the long reach clamp there is no need to file off the stop. If you virtually finish the wooden extension arms you can assemble them around the clamp.
this is very true. The reason I did it is lack of trust in my build. I didnt want to end up gluing it on the clamp and then not being able to take it off. But you are spot on.
I like the tip for extending the clamp reach Mark. I also agree with you on the Jorgensen clamps, much better than the cheaper ones I bought from my local Germanic supermarket. Good video as always 👍👍
Jorgensen got bought out by the Chinese in 2016. So it's not the same company anymore. Them and Pony are gone now. They sailed on a junk to the land of junks. There's a lot of that going on these days.
Thank you Martin. They have served me well.
Brilliant tips Mark. I'm STILL in the progress of building my workshop.
Thank you Peter. I hope it is going well. How far off finishing are you now.
Gaffe tape works perfect to cover magnetic strips as well.
Brilliant Idea and so easy to do.
Great drill storage box, but a battery charger space would help😊
This is very true.
For sandpaper rasps, painter sticks there next to free/dirt cheap to acquire and made excellent sandpaper rasps
Great advice. Cheaper than a laser lol
The tip about the clamp conversion is brilliant! Thanks!!
Thank you. It's not pretty but it certainly works.
FWIW, I have been able arrange long reach clamping without making the jaws. The jaws are very cool and looks to be worth the effort
My way is to have a caul long enough to span a distance from the edge of the subject board to where you want to apply pressure. Put a spacer on a clamp near that edge, and another clamp on a spacer where you want to apply pressure.
When you tighten the clamp you get a lot of pressure near the edge and less pressure out where you want to apply and clamp some wood in a glue up.
You can increase the pressure out away from the clamp by increasing the thickness of the spacer out there. I often use a set of playing cards to be part of all of that spacer.
You can do similar things if you have a curved caul that spans acro#s a board that I want to press out in the middle of the board.
I have a bunch of curved cauls ready made in various lengths. A clamp on one side of the board and another clamp on the other side, and you will have pressure out in the middle of the board. Again, you can add card stock along the caul to adjust where you want max pressure.
What you describe bud is the pro way in my opinion. I like the idea but know I would mess it up some way lol.
Mark, great information. 👍👍👍
Passing good info found somewhere else is a good thing.
More people get to hear it. 🌞
FYI: The, grippy net, shelf liner is also good for opening jars.
Cut two pieces, one 100mm x 400mm, to wrap around the jar
and another 140mm x 140mm, to grab the lid.
Your wife will love it and so will you, for that next jar of pickles.
( the 400mm piece is to accommodate larger jars )
P.S.: For lids that are Really nasty, a plumber's strap wrench
really come in handy. 👍 Cheers. 😁✌🖖
opening jars, wow, great advise. I used to have one of those wrenches somewhere. Dont know where it came from or where it actually is. Somewhere no doubt lol.
Hi Mark, some good ideas there ,I like the F clamp extension brilliant idea, sanding blocks are a great idea I have made them but I do like the sanding sticks using lolly pop sticks that is good. I use old plastic ketchup and mayo bottles as glue bottles a good use of recycling another thing I use to keep things wrapped up cables string rope I strip down mains cable off cuts 1.0mm 2.5mm twin and earth ,cut about 15-20cm just wrap around bunch up cable and twist together. As always full of good tips and ideas great video Take care
Hi Shaun. Great to hear from you What a clever idea with the wire. I love the bottle idea too. My glue bot is good for smaller glue ups but impossible for larger areas. I think I need to incorporate this into the next one.
The tips are great. I have one of the palm sanders that you can attach sanding disks. It never occurred to me to have several dedicated to different grits. So I used the link and ordered a couple. Thanks!
hi David. Thank you., And more so, thank you for supporting the channel. Much appreciated.
I use paint stir sticks and small radius dowel rods and wrap sandpaper around them.
I am liking myself for not including dowels. I was holding one lol.
@@startmaking1 it all comes down to, you want to get something done, and one way or another it will submit to you getting it done.
I really like that theory. Describes me and woodworking quite well.
Hi Mark such great tips definitely the clamp one going to try that one for sure and all the sanding tips very helpful Thanks for sharing. Great video
Thanks Jim. Very much appreciated,
Good day Mark. Been using some of these tricks for years. They work! Thanks for the most informative videos I have seen.
Thnk you very much. Dont hesitate to let me know of any others that you would not be without.
I have taken the 1X24 sanding belt and cut a 1” by 11.75 to 12” piece of wood and slid it into the belt. Adjust the length of the wood until it will just slide in. You’re all set. I have not needed to use any type of fastening.
That is brilliant advice. Thank you.
Duct Tape. "If they don't find ye handsome, as least they'll find ye handy." Red Green. Thanks for the info Mark. Take care & stay safe.
Duct Tape is metal foil with a peel off backing. There's a good chance you've never seen the stuff. Tell a HVAC guy that duck tape is duct tape and he'll give you an earful. It's a pet peeve of theirs.
@@1pcfred Aye. My mistake in naming duck tape. Thanks.
@@dougdavidson175 I've only worked with HVAC guys but I've gotten the earful. It is a topic they can really carry on about though. Why using duck tape on ducts is the mark of a true hack, etc. The real stuff sticks and stays a lot better. I have seen what they're talking about. Why duck tape looks like duct tape is due to bias. Originally the tape was olive drab. But when the boys came home from the war none of them wanted to see that color ever again. They still liked that handy tape though. So duck tape got a makeover to make it more palatable for the civilian market. It being the dawn of the Space Age that futuristic silver gray is what they went with.
@dougdavidson175 I had no idea of the name differences.
@@startmaking1 yeah the name change is likely because people wanted to forget what the tape was originally developed for. That coupled with the civilian color change and it was convergence. If you use duck tape on a duct the tape will deteriorate and you'll just have the cloth backing which will look like mummy wrapping linens hanging off the duct. I've seen it. Real duct tape is actual metal foil with an adhesive backing and a peel off layer. It doesn't do the mummy thing.
Hi. Like the sanding sticks idea. I got some cheap sandpaper as a present for Christmas so might use that. For the f clamps idea, I think I'd be lazy and get two straight pieces of wood and put blue tape on them in different lengths e.g. from 0 to 100%, 10% to 90%. 20% to 80% etc to put a slight curve on the edge. Then, in theory at least 😃, when you clamp both ends it should put more pressure on the middle replicating what you are doing with the large clamp. I must admit, I've never tried it but that would be my initial goto for this issue. Keep up the great work!
That is essentially the method for making clamping cauls. I didn't use blue tape, but tapered the cauls with a hand plane.
Cheap sandpaper is never a bargain. If you have to sand then use the best sandpaper you can get. I like 3M myself. I've had cheap sandpaper that was like rags with sand in it. Real sandpaper isn't made out of sand. It's aluminum oxide or ceramics. Sometimes silicon carbide.
I have some of these that I made a while back. They are a really good idea too. I should have included them, damn lol.
Sounds like a part 2 could be in the way😂
100%
You can use a dowel as the sanding stick for sanding inside curves.
Brilliant idea.
Love the clamp hack, definitely going to have to try that out!
Thank you Alex Very much appreciated.
Not for ordinary woodwork, but model making the sandpaper manicure sticks are quite handy
Great advice. I have a few that I have used in a pinch in the past. the very fine ones.
Great video. I've learnt a good few tricks with tape from your videos that are really useful.
Thank you. Very much apprecated.
Thanks for the f style tips, have to try that tip out for sure.👍👍👌
You are welcome John . Thank you.
Mark thats fantastic, i do need some good advice so thanks again you are brilliant ❤👏👏👏👏👍
Thank you Keith. Thats very kind.
Another very nice video! Congratz, keep them coming, sir.
Thank you. Very much apprecated.
Great job and great video!!! Love watching your content and very helpful tips. Hope to see loads more and stay safe Mark. See you in the next one.😁
Thank you so much. Really appreciate it.
Keep your glues, opened mastic tubes, spray paints and finishes in a cool box, add some draft excluder to the lip for a good seal and as many silica gel packets you can find in the bottom (or dry rice) to control humidity, and you have a constant climate all year round (helps in summer too) and greatly extended working life of opened mastic tubes if they set in air like filler or water like pu glue
This is something that future me will thank you for when. I finally get round to it. Really sensible.
@@startmaking1it's saved my bacon a few times and reduced wastage for me, as I find I can just decant into a jar and not worry if I get interrupted as I can come back an hour (days sometimes depending on what it is) or 2 later and it's still usable.
Bonus tip keep a roll of cling film in workshop, then use it cover anything you want air tight like you do a paint roller, open mastic tubes mainly I use it for, or opened fillers, it's also useful for a quick surface protector during glue ups
The cling film tip is a life saver for me too. I use it on every brush I use. My ADHD personality doest let me finish most jobs in one hit so it is priceless.
Use kitty litter instead of desiccant. Cheaper, available in fairly large quantities. Yes, it’s the same thing - silica gel.
Before anyone asks, use fresh, unused, clean kitty litter… that does NOT have cat shit in it…
Great video! Thanks for the awesome tips!
Thank you bud. Much appreciated.
In the US, the cheap F-clamps have blue handles, and come from Harbor Freight. Once you are familiar with them you begin to notice that many of the most popular Woodworking You Tubers have a lot of them, even people who go for the most expensive power tools. It's kind of funny to see Festool and Harbor Freight in the same shot.
This is very true. They stick around like my red ones. I feel like I will be fixing them for as long as I do this woodworking thing.
Brilliant tips - thanks very much
Thank you very much.
I have a scraper I use to clean up those inside corners. Sanding there is a nightmare. You need a long scraper with a flared hook end. I have an old Cornwell but they don't make it anymore. I found something vaguely similar called a Eight 20156 Skilletools XXL Scrape and Dab Tool. I try to minimize how much I sand wood as much as I can. Because sanding kinda sucks to do. Working wood with steel edge tools is the big brain move. But scraping is a skill. You have to scrape with the grain. You have to know how to sharpen your scraper too.
This is smart. I love using my cabinet scraper, leaves such a clean finish. Totally different to sanding. Sharpening is key, you are right and not catching the corners.
@@startmaking1 I don't sharpen my handled scraper like it is a card scraper though. I just sharpen it on a bench grinder. Bench grinders are next level woodworking tools. You can woodwork without one but at some point to go further they're essential. I don't know if anyone needs 7 like I have but one for sure. I hollow grind all of my chisels and plane irons. It makes honing them so much easier. Grinding is a discipline on its own.
I agree. I see the hollow grind and know it is the future or the now. Whichever way you look. But my grinder is too cheap and nasty for that. It is good for removing enough steel to get a chip out but past that I dont think I could get the accuracy,. Maybe in time.
@@startmaking1 If you're going all in with hand tool woodworking I'd say a good bench grinder is an asset. I wouldn't be without one now. But poor quality grinders can have issues. If the spindle shoulders and washers aren't true that can cause run out issues. I've seen people file them some. Beyond that you need to know about dressing stones. You have to do that even on good grinders. I need an angle adjustable tool rest to get a good bevel grind myself too. I've seen folks freehand that. I wouldn't recommend that technique. There's higher quality stones available too. Tool room wheels. Your run of the mill blue aluminum oxide wheel isn't ideal. So grinding can get involved. Wet wheel setups can cost a lot. I grind dry. But I dip cool often.
Ding ding ding we have a winner!! Awesome video m8 love those tips can't agree more about the cheap red clamps although the cheap German supermarket brand ones are actually really good ave not had any issues with them. On the sanding trick's something ave stsrted using for the lathe but been reaching for them for other jobs aswell 2 inch sanding discs you get like 200 for about 8 quid on ebay also comes with a Arbor for drill and backer pad they've worked really well for me. Nice laser plug 😂 although making me jealous again and cementing that a need get one. You could potentially do those clamp templates on there aswel maybe?? Catch up uo soon m8👍🏴
Thank you mate. I saw the Link. Looks like the larger one I have but a little better made. I bet it makes a mess but then you are using it on the lathe so I guess a mess is a given. You would laugh. I spend an entire day trying to make the clamp things on the laser. could not design the image well enough. Drove me nuts.
@@startmaking1 honestly I haven't used the actual Arbor part on the drill with the pads ave only ever used the small discs yea on the lathe and for little bits of hand sanding rather than folding discs or sheets of paper. I need to make a clamp rack finally got tidied up in shop today didn't realise a had so many. There are 9 bar clamps 12 small f clamps 6 large f clamps and about 6 g clamps. Need get similar thing to what you've made. Am surprised you couldn't manage to sort the file out for the laser although a suspect it would of drove u nuts. Speak soon
I was just about to suggest the craft/popsicle sticks as I was watching, and then you beat me to it 😆
And while it won't be as pretty as the fancy ones you buy online, you can always use scraps of framing lumber (e.g., in America, a 2x4, not sure what y'all use in metric ;p) cut to 5-6 inches to attach your sandpaper (probably even the old orbital sander disks) to. You *will* probably want to do something a little fancier than what we did for Cub Scouts with stapling the paper to the blocks, though, so you can replace it easier ;)
You can pretty much attach it to anything flat I guess, so scraps are perfect to use. It's a great use for them.
Great video Mark. Very useful tips.
Thank you John Very much appreciated.
Great tips mate certainly some of the best iv seen
Thank you Robert. Very much appreciated.
really like the sand paper tips, thanks!
Thank you. Very much appreciated.
My sanding tip is don't sand wood. You should really be working wood with woodworking tools. Planes, chisels, scrapers, spokeshaves, those kinds of things. Steel edged tools. Cut the wood, don't abrade it.
Great ideas, as always.
Thank you Mark. Very kind.
Another great video, thank you, stay lucky
Thank you. Very much apprecated. Take care Paul
Great tips pal.... Appreciated (as always)
Thank you. Very much appreciated.
Glue sanding paper on paint stirring sticks
great idea and more sturdy that the smaller sticks I have used.
Nice tips video. Heavily cambered cowls work well for reaching into the middle of a board too as do extended screw clamps. I love the "Best Blocks for Demanding Sanding" as made by Next Level Carpentry. They are awesome. Love the small sanding strips as well, they are so easy to use. I use several small cleats on the side of my bench to hold tools rather than magnets (don't like magnetising my diamond stones with flux from the tools). Paul Sellars has a tool well on the other side of his bench I believe. Totes work well too and are portable as tool storage/holding. Treebangham has a cool video on a tote build. Hope this helps someone.
Hi Ian. I actually made some of these a while ago using blue tape. I am kicking myself for not including them. Maybe next video. I will have to check out the blocks thing. I noticed that my diamond stones were being affected by the chisels being held on magnets. I have to find the best solution for the new work bench. I may just stick to cleats on the side for now. We will see. Appreciate the advice as always .
Do you think you could use curved bed slats as cowls? How did the magnetism effect the stones? I asked James Wright if he had ever considered the principle. He was interested in the problem. I think magnets are ok for hard point saws where you are never going to sharpen them although I still think I will avoid it for now. I'll send a photo of the blocks I use via IM asap. @@startmaking1
I dont think that the stones are affected directly. Ie they aren't damaged by the filings but I do notice that my plates rust a lot. I have to imagine that it is because I cant just wipe off the filings like I normally would as they are stuck more firmly.
Have you considered degousing the stones as that might allow you to remove any hidden fillings and clean the stones. I keep my stones out in the garage and they have not rusted at all, I clean them every time I use them and dry them with an eraser/rubber then pack them away until next time. Might be worth a try. Hope this helps pal.@@startmaking1
I will give it a try. In truth mine are very battered. I really need to upgrade from my beginner set to something a little more tuned in. These are great for starting out but I find I am one grit level away from super sharp.
like the clamp tip
Thank you Debs. Very much appreciated.
Wish I cud support your chanel rkid but I'm skint at the mo still glad you do vids tho tips are grate you can never get anuf lol keep up the good work rkid love your vids 👍
You do enough honestly Anthony. I thank you for that.
For slippery handles check Plasti Dip.
great advice, I saw this but it looked a little messy for me. Probably is easier than I think it is.
Thanks!
Thank you,.
Thank you Mark,
Great informative video.
Are you based in UK or US?
God bless you.
Thank you bud. I am in the UK.
Hi Mark,
Great video. I really like the Duck Tape trick. That's really going to help.
Looking forward to seeing your workbench build in a future video too. I saw you using it for a couple of the extra takes. Although, there's something quite reassuring about you doing woodwork on your old table... More in touch with your original fan base from your old shed days.
Not against progress, though! Bring on the build (it looks exactly like the type I want to make, right down to the 7492 at the end.
Hey bud. Thank you. I was sad to lose the old cabinet that I called a work bench. But dont worry, it is still in the shop somewhere. The new bench looks advanced from the top but it is super easy to build. just 2 by 4s, ply and a laminate top. Sadly, I have to progress as my skills grow and the tools I need come into the workshop. That said I have to find a way to keep doing projects that use minimal tools like the box made only with a hand saw. Those are what I find fun in. PS the Dewalt is pricey, especially the one with the 250mm blade but wow, it is great right out of the box. Very impressed.
so the tip to check is glue still works is to glue something and see if it worked
good thing you're here
Oh Richard. Ironically it is good that I am here to explain what you missed. You glue and then break it to see if the glue fails or the wood. With glue that is still good, the wood fibres will break. If the glue is bad, it will fail. I hope that makes sense.
thanks
Thank you. Very much appreciated.
duct tape, of course!
Is there anything it can't do?
Brilliant, as always, Mark. Seems like you been spending a lot of time on Google. Good tips in one place.
hi Meat. Thank you. I have taken a leaf out of Bryan's book and taken a google deep dive lol. Take care bud.