Know that feeling yes T_T but a tthe same time after 30 mins in the new set I already forget about the old one and got a new project and feel like a little kid with new toys hahaha
I think my biggest pet peeve in the gym is unattended kids that wander under an overhang where people are climbing, they don't know they're putting themselves and climbers in danger by running through fall zones
That and people who are in fall zones and walk passed under being on their phones or sitting under being on their phones. Too many times I almost fall ontop of some random person by 3" away from them.
I once recognized a kid was playing right underneath me climbing. I told him to go away, it's dangerous. His mom was there and told him "No it's fine, keep playing" and looked at me as she wanted to kill me for talking to her son...
Had this happen yesterday. "there's no way I'm supposed to make this...". After trying and falling a few times I finally spied an extra hold around the corner that would have helped
This happened to me as well. Very small gym. No matter where i picked up and put my chalk bag these kids would run over and use it. They were very young though....the type to do the cave adventures in some of the gyms and not actually follow proper climbing routes. It was annoying but i buy the cheapest chalk possible and was once a kid like them. What are ya gonna do 🤷♂️
How about gyms setting dynos that have other problems with big holds in the way, so you're more worried about smacking your face/knee/shoulder rather than completing the jump.
or when they make a crimpy route virtually unclimbable by setting another one across it with huge holds just where you should be as close to the wall as possible
@@cogitodubitoamo Why do gyms do this! Everywhere I've climbed this has been a problem and it drives me crazy, they never consdier how new problems affect preexisting ones when they set
This but with slab. I love slab, I climb slab, its great. Except when I gotta trust a move with a gigantic hold poking right under my face/chin. I'll happily fall off a wall on any other part of my body on the way down but grinding up my face ain't cool
Gatekeeping is legit the most toxic and unproductive thing in any kind of fandom and really just ruins it for anyone new and for a lot of people that already belong
Its also self defeating. How is your gym going to stay open if no one new joins? Just go build your own setup in your garage where you can be the king of the castle.
@@danielbeall7725 Oh no it's never happened to me, nor have I seen it thankfully. I've read some comments online before and it was because of it being mentioned in the video and my experiences with it when it comes to other things
I never understood gatekeeping. I practice a couple of martial arts in which you are welcomed in and you learn the etiquette on day one. And the more senior people are required to teach as part of their advanced learning. This means everyone is on the same page and friendly. I think a lot of coldness from more experienced climbers comes from a love of thier comfort zones and forgetting what it's like to be a newbie.
For me, the most annoying thing about "new" climbers is when there is a group of them, and they are super psyched to climb some problem together, and completely ignore that other people may want to climb in the same area (especially when these people were there before). Nothing is more annoying than to have a good rest before what could be the send go of your project, and then a group of 5 people comes along and projects the V2 that crosses your climb. So just check regularly if you're blocking someone else's climb, and give other people access to the wall in between the attempts of your group. Otherwise it's relatively simple, just apply common sense and be respectful to others. Brush your climbs after you are done. Don't make people feel bad about their climbing, and avoid words like "just" or "only", as in "you just have to commit". Everyone is trying their best, if it were easy for them, they would have done what you tell them to do already. Don't make people feel bad about their body, for instance, don't act surprised when your shorter friend can't reach a hold you easily can, and don't laugh at someone who is too weak to hang on to an "easy" overhang. Be humble about your progress and answer compliments with compliments. The list could go on, but really, there point is that there are no secret rules, just be a decent human being and you'll be fine.
I agree with@@martinr113 tldr version -be wary of fall zones -be mindful that the gym is a shared space, don't hog a wall/don't start a climb if your route is near someone already on the wall -use chalk, helps avoid greasing holds -no climbing shoes in restrooms and no outdoor shoes on the mats/holds
Well often newer clmbers aren't aware of their surroundings, ie which climb goes where, who else is climbing here, might they want to have their turn in the rotation, am I in someones fallzone? (often hard to judge for newer climbers when it's a problem with a bigger fallzone, so be alert!).
New climbers are factored into your gyms financial plans. If you want your gym to expand, buy new holds or even just, you know, stay open, its something you're going to have to deal with. Most people already feel out of place when they start climbing, so if you try to be polite when explaining things to them they usually take them to heart.
never forget to INSTANTLY downgrade your projects the second you send it. Especially if there are other ppl around trying the same problem (mumbling somthing like "7a max, probably only 6c+) while you are hopping off.
Lol one of my pet projects was rated a v2 (I have been climbing for 2 months) but it had a massive campus or heal hook on an overhang that I am still trying to complete. After a week they made it a V3 because the setter made it a V3, which was a huge confidence boost. It is still kicking my rear though. Lol
There was one time when I crop dusted someone with a fart as we were climbing adjacent routes. He was not amused. Sorry bud, I couldn't hold it off much longer.
I just started climbing 2 months ago and holy crap are some people either willfully inconsiderate or ignorant of their surrounding. One particular time I'm sitting on a bench and this one dude standing inches from me basically claps a plume of chalk right into my face. I'm talking like actually making visible coverage on me that I had to shake off in an obviously noticeable way. The dude didn't even give a quick "sorry".
People who move around in groups and then rotate on a problem without taking any breaks to let others go and often stand near the problem looking at it. I’m fine with just cutting in to try the problem, but I know many people who are more shy and so they just get locked out of a problem.
In some cases ppl just dont realize that they are "hogging" the wall especially if its a group of 3/4 then your not on the wall all that much and its easy to focus in on a problem. You will find that ppl are usually very accommodating if you just ask if you can have a go at a nearby problem or even that one hey maybe you have a slightly different approach and you can beta share without spraying ofc :). Anyway that just imo and of course sometimes there will be assholes but hey if thats the case then maybe its best to find a different spot for that session
@@viviannguyen4226 same here most of the time I feel too awkward to ask because they’re like all trying a boulder on the wall and i don‘t want to interrupt
Yo just ask even if nervous. Even if you dislike the ppl hogging there. The more often you ask the more natural it will become. Shy people will see your behaviour as guidance to dare and ask.
I've just begun climbing 2 months ago now and absolutely love it. I go to the gym roughly 4 times a week now. The thing that keeps me wanting to come back is the community. At my local gym i find everyone is so polite and helpful. It felt super good when i struggled on a specific route maybe 50 times and finally finished it. It was awesome just finishing it but having people cheer me on when i finally did it was awesome. Even as somewhat of a beginner i feel like i belong even with the much stronger climbers.
I just started recently as well! And I agree, the community is like nothing I’ve experienced before and it’s just so fun and uplifting, matter how much experience you have :)
@@elanaszahn4092 Cool! Forgot about making this comment, little over 8 months in now and still agree. Have made some really good friends and know all the regulars that climb at my local gym. Half the reason i climb is to sit and chat with everyone at the gym lol
I'm the newbie in my group, and everyone constantly says it is just as fun to watch me learning as it is for me to watch them. (While I doubt that's genuinely the case, because watching the rest of them is crazy and inspiring, it does really make me feel great having that support. And even having random folks at the gym give a "hey awesome!" is just the best. Climbing is such a great sport specifically because we can all enjoy it together regardless of skill level.
@@badpopmusic I enjoy seeing people progress, improve, and enjoy the thrill of finally completing a route that's been challenging them. So it's definitely enjoyable watching new people, and I've only been at it for a couple of months
Kind of a similar thing happened when I sent my first V7 at age 14 when I was at a comp. I tried the route like 9 times (tech start with a huge dyno finish) and finally got it. The adrenaline literally blinded me for a second but everyone was cheering and it was amazing :D
I mean they "usually" don't block your project and if they see how I'm falling off the wall they surely won't stand below me as I try to send my project ^^
Climbing is a playground. It’s playing for everyone. Kids should climb too. Many of the greatest climbers grew up climbing. That being said, children and parents should be aware of the dangers in the gym. That also being said, I’ve seen far more adults not respecting boundaries and being unsafe than small children. I say let them climb, but be good models for behavior.
What is even worse are babys. I have so many parents in my gym that just leave their babys on the dirty ground and climb behind their back it is infuriating! They are blocking the routes, often scream through the whole gym and you can't even ask them to move because they don't understand you! I obviously don't blame the babies but the parents!
I'm a fairly new climber myself, and the thing I hate most is. How some experienced climbers look at you and talk about you like you don't belong there! Most of the people are very nice though. And I love the community I got into by not being able to play basketball during the Pandemic.
I agree with all of the points you made. I would like to add one more. When all the routes are set by tall humans and the difficulty is set by just making bigger moves. For short climbers it takes the fun out of it pretty quickly. I like to be challenges, but I don't want to break the beta on every route. Long story short... We need a big amount of short women that set hard as nails routes.
Weirdly enough, I have the opposite problem. None of the setters at my gym are tall (maybe 5'8" max), so a lot of betas feel really claustrophobic and ultimately the taller guys can just reach past some crux moves, making several boulders pretty boring. We can generally still do the correct beta, but it flows much worse than what was intended
Went rock climbing for the first time ever today at a gym and it was amazing !!! Honestly I’m a bit overweight but people who were like really good at it were really nice to me. I’m glad that I found a brand new hobby
i was a beta sprayer for like 6 months before someone told me something. I really thought i was being helpful and didnt understand the nature of what i was doing. I did work with alot of new climbers and helped them along, and i think thats partly why i would just do it with everyone. Manager had to come talk with me, but then i tottaly got it after. great video
Yeah me too, i'm very new and i just say stuff like oh trust your feet or you had that it was so easy, and i've said that to climbers several levels above me and one of them seemed annoyed at me and walked off after i was beta spraying. I feel bad now, i like encouraging people like saying you were so close or that's light but i should also not try to give "tips" to people obviously better than me knowing damn well that i can't do the routes they can.
The worst thing for me is when the beta sprayers are worse than you, they just don’t realize you are tired or trying to cheat the route in some cool or fun way.
My gym is very small, so im always trying to find ways to skip holds, eretes or volumes to make a route harder than it needs to be because there arent enough routes at my level to keep improving. About once a session someone will point out a hold im obviously skipping on purpose or remind me the volume is on. Yes, i know this v2 wasnt intended to be massive dynos with an inverted bicycle hold at the top, and you watched me climb a handful of v4 and v5's, so you should understand that this route is nothing more than a warm up for me as it was set.
Same thing happened to me; I was projecting this V8 and a ~40 yr old guy was struggling on a V5 to the left of my project and was tryna gimme beta. I was like “my guy, I know you THINK you know what is the right beta, but there’s a different between knowing something in concept, and actually knowing what it’s like to execute in practice”. The thing is that when you see someone doing a hard problem that you haven’t tried, you think you’re seeing with clear eyes and that you have something to offer, but like 97% of the time they know far more than you do because they’ve been trying it and can actually do the moves
Can't agree more. One time, my friend was helping me work out a move and this person who clearly just started climbing not long ago abruptly walks up to us and proceeds to explain to us the difference between our beta before the crux move...yes random person, we are clearly in need of beta on moves that we can both do instead of the actual crux.
I agree with this list 100%. As someone who works/sets at a small family-owned gym, I hate when regulars complain about new members or even people getting day passes. Gatekeepers don't realize that when gyms get more business that's how they are able to upgrade walls/remodel/ or even yet ordering some nice new holds. I get it that some visitors suck and disregard every rule of orientation, but not every new member is going to be a pro off the bat. But it is cool seeing the regulars connect with the new climbers and helping them get into the higher grades.
Hate that. It's basically the same as one surfer dropping in on another that's already on the wave. Just wait your turn, and if you're the one already climbing, I'll wait mine.
Overlapping happens more often in crowded gyms. Since people are impatient or just lack the foresight to check if their route intersects with another climber.
I’ll confess I do give advice sometimes, I usually appreciate it when people give me advice so I never really thought of it as a negative. I’ve also never given it for anything really technical it’s usually when they’ve clearly forgotten a obvious hold exists on the route that would help them and knowone ever seemed offended. Another motivation for me for that is I have knowone to go climbing with and usually it’s a good excuse to start a conversation. I’ve made two friends that way.
I just got into climbing and probably would like advise if I struggle with a problem for a longer time. I guess it depends on the situation, tone and how good of a climber you are.
Him : "Hey want some advice?" *Me, holding by a single pumped arm, in the middle of a barndoor, about to be yeeted to the next gym, red like a tomato and sweating like it's raining inside* "WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE?"
I also don't mind a little help and I do help others tho 2 things: I never advise above my level (I am a a little better than a complete beginner) and only if I can tell the person has been struggling for some time. I guess it's because I don't mind advises from better climbers, it helps me grow :3 People at my gym help each other a lot and I never see anyone being mad about it.
Oh no...my PTSD :c Not only did he flashed my project without projecting it for a second he also flashed the black one (hardest difficulty in my gym) beside it where even a regular climber who climbs on this lvl struggled...That was nightmare fuel...
Why are kid climbers so good + so confident? One of the workers at my gym assured me they'd been climbing since like 3, whereas my fatass had only a few months of experience. Still makes you feel disheartened when they're just hoisting themselves up without a care + I have to reassure myself my hands are strong enough for that hold for the fourth time haha
@The Climbing Channel Don't ever apologize for being a stronger climber than someone. You worked for that. It's not like you're doing it to be shitty, and that's what matters. This joke just stems from adults' insecurities about kids being better than them at something.
Knew a guy who admitted he was bleeding one time but decided to give it another go before getting a bandaid like it was him being badass and not just gross
Kids. I hate kids in the bouldering area. They are completely unpredictable and dangerous, and parents seem to think that's fine for some weird reason.
In my gym the problem is more the groups of kids, we only a have a "small" bouldering area and when a group of kids come, forget about trying anything where they are u.u
@@Pshady Maybe if they have several rooms they can have one only for the kids? We have a kids climbing room on the second floor, but it's for kids below 4. I mean when they are around 10 they start to understand, I think 16 is a little bit too much...
Beta spraying is definitely the most polarizing of this list. Some never want to hear beta so they can enjoy the solving aspect, while others enjoy it so they can do a problem that's within their physical capabilities or have an easy way to strike a conversation. I feel like it's just the approach that would make or break for me. Unless they're completely new, asking if they're interested in beta or if they're just trying their own thing doesn't hurt. Edit: I just remembered the first time I went outdoor climbing, my friend and I were trying to get past the crux of a V3 and some homie in running shoes hopped on, told us that campusing the move is easier, and proceeded to campus said move with ease. It wasn't in a condescending way either; he seemed pretty confident that we could do it that way, but it was pretty funny experience. We were tired by then though, so maybe next time we'll try that campus move
It's always easy to just ask, "Hey, you want some advice/beta on that climb?" This sidesteps everything annoying about beta spraying. Also, you really shouldn't even really be offering any advice unless you've climbed it before and you've seen them fail quite a few times. I don't even consider offering unless I've seen someone fall on a single move 5 times or more. Giving people the answers, even if they're willing to hear it, makes them worse climbers in the long run. They should actually try to solve the problem themselves.
I’m seeing plenty of comments about power screamers. It’s weird, I grunt during Crux moves (I’m no Adam ondra on the volume of my screams), but it just happens. And I actually LOVE hearing someone else power scream. It’s for some reason enjoyable to me seeing someone put in that much effort. Can anyone relate? 🤔
I relate. Sometimes screams happen unintentionally because holy shit you're pumped and holding onto those tiny crimps at the near finish of your project hurts like hell and you're literally using every last ounce of strength to get there. But the guy that's grunt screaming like he's powerlifting every move on a 10a starting from the very first hold? Now that's just attention seeking, imo.
I feel you i love when i hear loud grunts or power screams from across the climbing gym or even in a regular weight lifting gym, i feel like it gives it more of an atmosphere and real gym vibe
I've only ever slab grinded once, and it wasn't even on a slab 😂🥲 It was in the cave at my gym, I went for a reach that I didn't make, and scraped my index finger on the wall most of the way down, taking off several layers of skin and almost exposing a vein with how deep it was. I was just glad it waited to start bleeding till after I walked away so I didn't get blood on the wall or holds 😂
@@katelynplatt9044 That sounds like it hurt! My worst was climbing a crimpy slab V6, both my hands and feet slipped off when there was a big volume directly under my chin. Suffice to say, I have a neat little scar there now 😄
Some of my "tops": You always know the routes will be dry! There's almost always somebody at my level (or better) if I need advice, or just some moral support 😅
I'm still a novice climber and I'm really lucky to have an experienced friend who taught me about bouldering and gym etiquette. I kept coming back to my local climbing gym because everyone there was so positive and non-judgemental. Most of the people there were great climbers, but they were also understanding that I was there to have fun and just get a good workout.
As a pretty strong climber (absolutely bragging here) I do that all the time, warming up on people's projects or doing circuits on them, I actually feel bad for them and I know how they must think I'm just rubbing it in their faces but what am I supposed to do 😬
@@etiennevandamme3566 I think it's fine actually. I say this as an intermediate to weaker climber, who's been on both sides of this plenty of times. I often find it inspiring instead of discouraging actually. If I don't want to have the beta "spoiled," I'll look away, but if I'm feeling stuck, I'll watch and take mental notes. Watching stronger climbers is a really good learning opportunity.
I'm not climbing on high level at all, so that might make a difference, but I kind of like the "beta sprayers". It is a bit like helping each other out. It also did improve my technique when higher skilled climbers helped me out. I understand it would be different in a less casual setting.
I think the idea is to ask if someone wants help without giving it. This is a good rule of thumb for life tbh. People having problems aren't necessarily looking for advice, and there's no harm in checking first
I like to see what I can do, probably spend 10 minutes figuring out what works and what doesn't, then maybe I'll ask the setter for beta just so I can test my strength, not my brain power
It's a spectrum. There are ways to do it that are nice, and if I'm just totally missing something obvious then I welcome it. But I feel like some people can be a bit obnoxious, and if it's something more subtle I'd rather try to figure it out myself.
I think that really depends on the Grade you climb. I feel like when climbing on lower grades its better for learning to figure out how to grab different types of holds on your own. While when climbing higher grades then I find that its most welcomed (in my case anyway) as I am clearly usually just missing something obvious or I'm over thinking it. But I can see both sides of the coin and understand if some just want to work it out.
Beta spraying is mostly annoying for me - especially when I fall off something and someone just HAS to tell me what they did. A lot of the time since I'm smaller, I may not be able to do the beta their way and I think generally I would ask someone who works at the gym for beta if I'm really struggling because they work there. 🤷 Personally am not a fan because it can come across as mansplaining (based on experience).
This is exactly my thoughts. id love to know how to climb the route. If i can do it, then i can learn from it. If im failing on it, i have no idea why im failing on it. I will assume its because “im not strong enough”.
My pet peeve in gyms is when experienced climbers, hog space in front of the wall. These are the people stand in front of the boulder reading beta, try it and fall, stay there and read it again, try once more, repeat 2-4 times... they leave their chalk bag or bucket in the fall zone of others, they climb into the fall zone of others and expect the other person to drop off the wall to avoid it (even if Hog got on their climb after the other person) projecting or not, time limits or w/e circumstance, it's just common courtesy to wait in a queue and some people for w/e reason don't care about that.
The last one is really true, I work at a climbing gym and our members always complain about it. I told them if they don’t want new people or kids coming in to buy day passes and try climbing they can pay more for their memberships
There's a classic spot near me that's sandstone that has been climbed on for around 50 years or more. High traffic, local, easy access near a big climbing community. I often wonder what the problems were originally like because ik they were nothing like they are now. Kind of sad and also ego destroying when you're crushing 7s and 8s indoors and can't do a V2 because the grading hasn't changed even tho the problem has changed over decades. Lol still fun tho.
How about low lying very large volumes, I feel like they are achilles tearing machines. These should be left to areas where you can put them where there is no way to fall unexpectedly onto them from large heights.
This is why I hate the trend of pseudo-slab by slapping volumes on vert. Despite sucking at it, I really enjoy slab. And there aren't enough opportunities to practice it because there's always something that can seriously injure me.
That´s funny cause I actaully prefer them to high lying volums. Espacially the ones on whom you can slip easily. Sliping in 20 cm and falling isn´t so bad but when you are already 2m up it cans really hurt.
@@leotastic5572 The problem isn't slipping off the volume. It's slipping off the tiny foot jib that's above the volume and having your ankle shatter when you crash into the volume.
I love when people are trying to coach me while I'm on the wall. I know why others don't, but I want other people to feel like they're part of what I'm doing
@@MrCmon113 it is not always about knowing the solution, but about putting it into practice. I have been climbing with the better climbers at my gym and frequently ask for help on what I should be doing. Often times I have the solution, I am simply not strong enough yet, or I am supporting my weight incorrectly. knowing I have the right idea and learning how to read the routes is the best pick me up I can get when it comes down to just my physical limitations.
plastic pullers aren't actually rock climbers....how can you be a rock climber if you never even touch rock? but here we are, living in modern times where everything is shit and climbing has become mainstream enough to where gym climbers exist.....all good things are ruined by the masses.
Being nice to new climbers is the most amazing thing. I really appreciate it when people at my gym say "good job!" to me after seeing me fail for an hour, never be afraid to encourage people.
When I first went to a gym I didn’t realize that all the nicely laid out bags of chalk weren’t provided by the gym. I’ll always be polite and even offer chalk if I see someone making the same mistake I did on their first time out.
My most hated climbing problem is flappers. I can be having a great session feeling it then the skin on my hands decide to give out and it really ruins the momentum for the next few sessions
I actually love getting unsolicited beta from more experienced climbers because that way I can actually learn from problems that I can't seem to solve on my own.
I think the most important part there is more experienced. Like they need to not just know the beta but also see that it is within your ability and let to you try it enough times on your own to see that you are just wearing yourself out without making any progress.
Meh, I don't think this culture should be reinforced. Like Albert said, pretty annoying if you're trying to figure it out on your own. If you're really having trouble, just ask. Climbers r generally friendly and open to sharing beta. And if you're shy, then just watch someone send the problem and steal their beta.
I think the difference is when they ask you if you want to have the solution. If they just give unsolicited advice to people there is a good chance the person doesn’t want it and it ruins their try off the route. I personally like advice after I couldn’t figure it out for a long time but wouldn’t want it in the beginning.
@@cameronline3780 They're mad when people give it unsolicited. If I can solve the problems myself, that makes me a better climber. You're stunting my growth by just giving me the answers before I've had some time to think and try stuff out.
I've been climbing for just a little over two years, I work at a climbing gym, run all of our teams and leagues, and the one thing that irritates me beyond ALL ELSE is gatekeeping. God it is so toxic. Thanks for mentioning it.
the only people who worry about gatekeeping and things being toxic are the insecure and those who can't hang....i've been climbing for 30 years and the thing that irritates me beyond belief is my lifes passion becoming industrialized and sold to a bunch of twats in the city so they can come out to my backyard and crap all over everything on the weekends.........i'd rather not climb than be a gym climber. guess we both just have to live with the way things are. lol
@@two_tone_xlophone2630 some of us don't have outdoor rocks to climb on, and outdoor climbing is intimidating. I personally have never outdoor climbed, primarily for the first. I wouldn't have even thought of trying outdoor because the equipment and effort to go was to daunting for the high likelihood of not enjoying it.
@@adaelion3772 would you go to the local community pool and swim underwater then tell everyone you're a diver? that's what you're doing here, "oh diving equipment is too expensive, there's no deep water near me and i might not even enjoy it, but i swim underwater at the local pool so I'm a diver" is exactly what you lot sound like.....i'm not judging you for not climbing outdoors, i really don't care, in fact i think it's great, it's just less people in my backyard taking up routes, i'm judging you for claiming to be something you are not, i have more respect for the person who is self actualized enough and humble enough to know the things they are not than the one who self aggrandizes the things they do.....i ride my mountain bike down big mountains along trails but i'd never call myself a downhill mountain biker, the guys who do that are on a totally different level than myself, i'm a trail rider at best and i have no problem with telling people that, i'm confident enough and like myself enough to not have to pretend to be things i am not in order to impress other people or even fool myself into believing i'm better than what i actually am at something....i suck or am able to do a lot of things half assed and that's ok, if i only ever climbed in a gym i wouldn't call myself a rock climber, i'd just tell people i like to work out by going to a climbing gym instead of a regular gym and that would be ok for me too....i find it really strange how you lot get so injured by being told the truth....it's in the literal name, ROCK climbing, you have to actually climb on rock if you are to be one, a rock climber isn't a ice climber and a gym climber is neither....it's not rocket science.
When someone walks up and sends the problem you've been working on for an hour and then just walks away. And dudes with their shirts off, especially if they are still wearing their hat
I live for that feeling, when big muscular guys are working hard on a problem and I just flash it in front of their eyes and walk away like its nothing. Gives me such an ego boost.
I think a primer on etiquete is very useful. I beta sprayed all the time until some one once asked me whether I wanted the tall guy beta on a problem. That made me realize people sometimes don't want the beta. Then I had to learn to ask first.
and now the government is like „schools should be reopened“ like WTF... how are the brains of those ppl working... if that happens we need to write 8 big exams in the next month without proper information about them nor good preparation bc of online schooling...
I started training at home since november to get a good start when they reopen. I tried outdoor boudering for the first time at 3°C outside. Damn I just want the gyms back.
They've been closed for over three months here, and we would've gone skiing but that's impossible due to Covid. I miss the gyms and fencing and also mountains (I live in northern germany, the highest "mountain" here is 167 m high). Well, maybe some stuff will reopen before I graduate next year, Covid can't last forever...
I'm confused, isn't closing the gym what they are doing to try to control the pandemic? I personally think that the government shouldn't close gyms but people should just make decisions for themselves with whatever they are comfortable with.
@@kennyduncan7 Yep it is. But if you are opening stuff again without a plan to keep numbers low you will get a lookdown -> "normal" -> lookdown... loop.
@@hilemanluke I mean, from what I can tell, the country is doing what they can to control the pandemic. All my classes are online, I have to wear a mask pretty much everywhere, I constantly need to be tested for covid. What did I miss? If I remember correctly, it took nearly a year since covid started for things to get semi-normal again.
@@kennyduncan7 you are right! I have these things to! I agree! the internet and a comment section is no place to have a full convo about this. BUT, (and make no mistake covid is NOT gone, Delta is a real thing.) government didn't handle the virus early on and different states as well(depends on where in the world you live but America is a nightmare), although you can't dwell on that for we didn't have any sway in that. as I do agree with you that people should decide weather or not to go and do things, (the reason I found your comment wrong is that it is objective that the pandemic has hit the world hard and infrequently. that is objectively true. I am merely defending the fact that it did and is happening and that the closing of gyms early on helps the spread, especially since you are touching and sweating on the same holds) it's incredibly insensitive and stupid for me to comment something so pessimistic and short on a comment in a TH-cam video. so i apologize for not making myself clear and making a stupid comment.
I was doing a really hard traverse boulder and just finished the hard section when a kid started climbing right below me, so I had to wait and got too tired
I got a day pass 2 weeks ago, the friendliness of the people there that night and all the words of encouragement had me back the next day paying for a membership and even buying my own gear. Haven’t even came close to thinking I made a mistake. Been in ever chance I could get. Struggled on the white routes. Now I’m clearing green routes within a 3rd attempt. So thankful for the fellas and ladies that gave me a chance when they saw me just standing there looking lost and puzzled
I'm reading the whole series for the first time before watching the films. As a kid only made it to the fourth book before the wait for the fifth lost my interest. I mean I've been avoiding HP spoilers for years but come on Albert seriously, right now?? lol just going to have to wait a few more weeks until I finish the books to watch Albert, something to look forward to I guess.
Maybe my gym just has a different culture but i don’t think i’ve ever seen somebody get mad at somebody else trying to help them figure out the route. People always stand in groups talking about the problems trying different solutions together telling people where holds are that they might not see because of some awkward position or just cheering each other on. I do always ask before i give somebody advice but i have yet to hear somebody decline it. Maybe it’s because we are a relatively casual beginner friendly gym but yea. And from my own personal experience while problem solving is cool having a friend show you a solution for a problem you’ve been fighting for a while trying it out and figuring out why it worked is just as satisfying at least for me. What matters at the end is wether you got to the top.
I’m a new climber and am trying to avoid being rude at the gym so I’ve been doing as much research as I can online but am still anxious that I am doing something wrong 😩 thank you for making this
Same🙃 Especially if it gets packed and a group of advanced climbers comes close to my route. But I guess I’m getting better at just focusing on myself and hope that they know I try my best
"Beta Sprayers" is a delicate one. Having a friendly and helpful atmosphere in the climbing gym is a great thing, but boulder routes (to me) are movement puzzles. Set objects you have to move around to reach a goal with your very own, individual body composition/technique/etc. I don't mind a hint here and there if somebody looks completely helpless/frustrated, but figuring it out on your own is a big part of the fun. Put another way: How am I supposed to get better/more creative in my climbing when all my problem solving gets squashed by some idiot whose self-esteem depends on being the constantly helpful guy/gal?
On a more serious note, regarding your last point. As a new climber… I sometimes feel like more experienced climbers resent me being there taking up space in the extremely small bouldering section. I think it might be that they are frustrated rather than happy the climbing community is growing so fast, because it causes inconvenience. It is frustrating and for anyone who enjoys climbing for the social aspect, it’s a game ender. Luckily for me though I do it for the challenge, adventure and self improvement aspects of climbing
I got started in local small gyms where the main thing was community where the best climbers in the gym who can send 7a problems will cheer on a newbie climber trying to do a 5a. Since going overseas to more larger commercial gyms, I don't see the same kind of community, which is a shame.
A little more to grease on holds is chalk does not grip, do not put this on footholds, but do use chalk on a brush to help clean holds of shoe rubber, grease, and even glassen chalk. This is in particular true if the gym you are at uses those smooth vinyl mats rather than carpet, as you will find grey dust coating every foothold which is ground shoe rubber.
To add to brushing skills; more pressure does not clean better. You're just destroying the brush. And if it's a gym brush, that means they have to keep spending money replacing them instead of being able to buy new holds.
I hate when people spend like 30+ minutes on a wall switching between them and their friend and don't let anyone else get on that section. But let's not get too focused on the negative things since climbing is such a great sport :)
I’m mixed on this. If they’re projecting something that they’re really close to getting, I totally understand. It is very rewarding when ya finally get that send. If it’s something way out of their league and they’re hogging the problem, then yea it can definitely be annoying. Worse case scenario, you can just stand really close to problem and swoop in like a vulture when they fall off.
In some cases ppl just dont realize that they are "hogging" the wall especially if its a group of 3/4 then your not on the wall all that much and its easy to focus in on a problem. You will find that ppl are usually very accommodating if you just ask if you can have a go at a nearby problem or even that one hey maybe you have a slightly different approach and you can beta share without spraying ofc :). Anyway that just imo and of course sometimes there will be assholes but hey if thats the case then maybe its best to find a different spot for that session
That's true Vesper there's always another side to it :) That's also a good point Nightseye. I have this group of people at my gym that always do it though and I'm sure they realize it lol.
@@climbingbird Yup there are always ppl that will do things even if they know its at best a little rude. I think it also comes down to a question of how many ppl is to many working in one area/ on a problem. Lets say theres a group of 3 more or less hogging a problem and you think it looks interesting and want to try so you are like well they are being rude hogging that wall. Now lets picture a group of 12 ppl working at a problem you come across that and think well theres a lot of ppl at this wall so lets go to another area. I guess it comes down to how many ppl you think should be allowed to work on a problem/ how long you want to wait for a go at it. IMO its a shitty situation when it happens but usually gyms are big enough that you can find a different area to climb in. I also know that this might depend on how the gym does its resets. I know that my gym use to reset one section of wall before and that area would always be crowded every time there where new problems. So they switch over to resetting a few problems all over the gym but that made ppl spread out more improved flow a lot more. Sorry seems like im in a ranty mood today.
My first time climbing I thought the chalk bags were part of the gym. I used someone's chalk bag and my friend turned all red. The bag owner laughed and was chill about it
I like my gym so far (started climbing 4 months ago), but being new, and now seeing brand new people come in, its a tad chilly of a culture to any brand new people that after the rapid fire day pass intro thing they got, they are mostly left interested yet bewildered and climbers already in groups or otherwise feel no need to greet such strangers. I keep thinking that gym cultures need to see new faces and have a more like "hey, come on in, you need anything let us know, welcome to the party!"
Yeah I just started climbing in a small gym and have no clue about how the right behaviour looks like. And especially when it gets full with more advanced climbers that gives me a lot of anxiety bc no one shows you wehster your doing stuff right and all that.
Mine would be when you're half way up a hard problem you've been projecting and someone, most likely newbie, jumps on another problem that intersects or ends very close to yours. it's frustrating when you've only got a couple more good climbs left in the session but you have to jump off to be safe because they didn't realize they've climbed right under you or where your problem is leading.
I'm fairly new to climbing, so the beta spraying section really started me thinking. My thoughts went in several waves of self reflection and contemplations. My immediate reaction was that I like beta sprayers and beta spraying. It still helps me to learn a route even if the beta isn't best for my body. Not just hearing other people's thoughts, but talking through my own thoughts with someone else and hearing their reaction of my thoughts. It's not that there's one way of solving a problem, but many ways and talking through them with other people and other opinions helps understanding. Sometimes it's questions about what they're trying to do which could be construed as beta spraying. But then came the wave of self reflection. I thought about times that I've discussed a problem with someone and thought about how it might have been received in a negative way. I may have yelled at someone on the wall, and I can definitely see how that could be annoying. But, there have also been times when someone has been on the wall and looking confused and seeming to want advice that has been well received. However, it's definitely something that I'll try to be more aware of in regards to the particular person on the wall. In the self reflection part, I read through all of the comments regarding beta spraying. A clear pattern emerged that those climbers that were newer or looking to socialize seemed to like beta spraying. And an idea came to me was that beta spraying hate was a form of gatekeeping. Beta spraying actually helps newer climbers to both improve their own beta and to feel welcome in a community. Then the last thought was the comment that beta spraying was cheating in the competition setting. At first I just took that at face value, but then realized that it was 99% wrong. In the observation phase, the climbers are discussing beta with each other, miming the routes and the moves. Any hold back of beta isn't because of rules, but only to give themselves an advantage if they see a beta that would aid themselves more. But, you can definitely see that competitors share, and share more often with their own team as whole teams will share similar beta. Maybe it's just because I'm new to climbing, but both sides of beta sharing (listening and giving) seem like a integral parts of a growth mindset. In every discipline, people share their techniques and listen and learn from the techniques of others to continually improve. You need to come up with ideas and bounce them off of other people to learn more. You work on a route with someone else and build off of each other's beta. I can definitely see how beta sprayers can be annoying, but rather than correcting the annoyance by sharing less, maybe we should be correcting the annoyance by being more open to the thoughts of others. Once, a long time ago, there was a wise Zen master. People from far and near would seek his counsel and ask for his wisdom. Many would come and ask him to teach them, enlighten them in the way of Zen. He seldom turned any away. One day an important man, a man used to command and obedience came to visit the master. “I have come today to ask you to teach me about Zen. Open my mind to enlightenment.” The tone of the important man’s voice was one used to getting his own way. The Zen master smiled and said that they should discuss the matter over a cup of tea. When the tea was served the master poured his visitor a cup. He poured and he poured and the tea rose to the rim and began to spill over the table and finally onto the robes of the wealthy man. Finally the visitor shouted, “Enough. You are spilling the tea all over. Can’t you see the cup is full?” The master stopped pouring and smiled at his guest. “You are like this tea cup, so full that nothing more can be added. Come back to me when the cup is empty. Come back to me with an empty mind.”
There's a difference between sharing beta and beta spraying. It's fine to give someone beta if they ask for it or if you confirm with them first that they're OK receiving beta. Beta spraying is when someone gives it to you that is completely unsoliticed. That's what we're complaining about
Cling ons- so you’ve already been at the gym for 1-2hours, but then mr marvellous comes in fresh, and keeps following and watching routes you are trying, and every time you jump off he jumps on to show you that he can do it lol. Used to happen in weights gym too, they jump on and add weight to show off, even though you’ve almost finished your work out. Anyone agree? :)
I have been into long distance hiking and camping for my whole life. Have recently found an interest in climbing, so if the lockdown ever gets sorted out, maybe I will find myself at a climbing gym. Looks fun.
The beta spraying issue is actually tricky. I naturally like helping people with stuff I found difficult. Of course I don't walk up to anyone and just SHOW THEM how it's done, but I myself enjoy watching other people do a boulder I don't understand. So if I see someone struggling, I walk up to them and drop a hint. But apparently some people even hate being asked if they'd like some advice. Without youtube, I wouldn't even know that this is such a huge controversy...
@@shanequastunningbrave5376 so apparently beta spraying is the worst but lack of common decency on the internet is completely ok. Got it 👍 How about you "shut your trap" until you figure out how to frase your thoughts in a way that's less rude?
@@shanequastunningbrave5376 speak for yourself. I've seen your comments in other videos and you honestly seem to have some anger issues. Me and my friends always appreciate some hints/beta on a problem we can't figure out. It's not that serious at all, and if it really annoys you that much, just tell them. One rule is though, that if someone is worse than me or has much less experience, i don't appreciate it that much
@@henrikblomqvist720 It's an astonishingly simply concept, unless someone asks for beta don't give it or at least ask if they want beta before offering it, not sure what the difficulty in comprehending this is exactly?
Slab grinding is my biggest fear and holds me back so much with leading. I am not strong enough to take advantage of overhang, so I have to try overcoming my fear all the time.
Thanks for making great climbing content Albert. I’ve been binging your channel recently and I noticed that there has been some issues with audio levels. By this, I mean that the audio of your voice over is much lower compared to the music at the title transitions. This creates an unpleasant viewing experience because a viewer would have to crank up the volume to hear your voice but then they would be blasted by the transition music. I suggest reviewing the audio using different common listening setups (phone speakers, headphones, earbuds, etc.) and keeping a careful eye on the audio levels in your editing software. Cheers!
I’m fairly new to climbing ~5 months. I’m still making it up in numbers and try to go higher to challenge myself but people will say “I can make this” and “don’t give up” like that’s not my goal. I’m just trying to learn new holds and movements sometimes. It makes me feel awful cuz I know I’m not there yet and everyone is looking and expecting way more.
I can relate soooo badly to the spilling chalk one, once I was at the top of a 15 metre route and my ball of chalk fell out of my bag... The dust covered about half of the gym 😓
I like how you didn’t poke at casual or new climbers. Rather shared really good insights, advice, and encouraged new climbers. I have friends who are experienced climbers and will take me from time to time and I always feel gate keeping is real. And a lot of the time the gate keepers aren’t even good climbers.
The other day a very well known team USA climber came by my home gym for a session and ended up campusing a V6 ish overhang I had struggled with previously. Absolute monster.
When you know you're going to send your project the next time you go but when you come back they already reset the problems.
Love having new routes but hate loosing the old ones.
OMG, thats soo true!
Know that feeling yes T_T but a tthe same time after 30 mins in the new set I already forget about the old one and got a new project and feel like a little kid with new toys hahaha
That's why I know the resetting schedule of all my gyms lol
correct
I stg I went through the 5 stages of grief when a comp set on the bolder walls was removed.
I think my biggest pet peeve in the gym is unattended kids that wander under an overhang where people are climbing, they don't know they're putting themselves and climbers in danger by running through fall zones
That and people who are in fall zones and walk passed under being on their phones or sitting under being on their phones. Too many times I almost fall ontop of some random person by 3" away from them.
That's actually my only pet peeve
I've definitely dived in some crazy directions to avoid absolutely destroying a 6-year old exploring
@@erraticbro Yeah right, you just crush those wandering little ones. :)
I once recognized a kid was playing right underneath me climbing. I told him to go away, it's dangerous. His mom was there and told him "No it's fine, keep playing" and looked at me as she wanted to kill me for talking to her son...
When you struggle for 20 minutes on a seemingly impossible problem before realizing you overlooked a hold.
Or when the tape marking a hold is gone lol
Had this happen yesterday. "there's no way I'm supposed to make this...". After trying and falling a few times I finally spied an extra hold around the corner that would have helped
...and then comes a 7 year old girl and flashes your project at first try, skipping two more holds :)
...because it was a black hold completely covered in chalk.
One of the rare moments when beta spraying is acceptable imho
Number one: **warming up**
Especially boulderers ;)
(I'm one myself, so don't blame me, you know it's true)
Lol
SO TRUE!
Number two: "cooling down"?
Truuuueee
I left my chalk bag open once, and a day pass family came over and used it like it was a community bucket.
This happened to me as well. Very small gym. No matter where i picked up and put my chalk bag these kids would run over and use it. They were very young though....the type to do the cave adventures in some of the gyms and not actually follow proper climbing routes. It was annoying but i buy the cheapest chalk possible and was once a kid like them. What are ya gonna do 🤷♂️
@@Jagknorr I was definitely more irritated by the parents encouraging it. Lol
yeah, a grown man used mine once... during the pandemic no less! So gross!!!
I honestly sad how much this happens to me because I have a 8b+ chalk bucket so people always want to touch and stuff and it’s kinda weird
@@thearter12 Actually, there's not much to worry about there. Studies have found chalk inactivates the infectivity of the virus.
Top 1 things gym climbers hate: lockdown
bruh yes. 3 1/2 month now in Germany😭
I hate COVID. I understand and respect the lockdown. Crush COVID, get me my vaccine, I wanna go to the gym!
@@error.418 lucky if you can walk after that vaccine.
@@ClimberinChrist You do realize it's been tested and many people have had it now and it's just fine, right?
@@ClimberinChrist whys that?
Here's a good one:
How about working on a climb for an hour just for your friend to flash it and move on in front of your now suicidal eyes?
happened yesterday. I was trying a 6C boulder which needed some cheecky technique, then some fella came, flashed with hands only and left :(
@@alexanderhandjiev2845 I feel you, happens every time
@@TheCookieMansion a bit of an update. Today I found out, He is Bulgaria's best climber, Peter Ivanov
@@alexanderhandjiev2845 ohhhh that's a completely different story lol
@@alexanderhandjiev2845 happened to me today was working a problem the whole time and someone flashes it like nothing then moves to the next wall.
How about gyms setting dynos that have other problems with big holds in the way, so you're more worried about smacking your face/knee/shoulder rather than completing the jump.
or when they make a crimpy route virtually unclimbable by setting another one across it with huge holds just where you should be as close to the wall as possible
that.
@@cogitodubitoamo Why do gyms do this! Everywhere I've climbed this has been a problem and it drives me crazy, they never consdier how new problems affect preexisting ones when they set
@@cosmicreciever they probably don't test the whole route, which is pretty messed up considering how much a membership costs
This but with slab. I love slab, I climb slab, its great. Except when I gotta trust a move with a gigantic hold poking right under my face/chin. I'll happily fall off a wall on any other part of my body on the way down but grinding up my face ain't cool
Gatekeeping is legit the most toxic and unproductive thing in any kind of fandom and really just ruins it for anyone new and for a lot of people that already belong
Its also self defeating. How is your gym going to stay open if no one new joins? Just go build your own setup in your garage where you can be the king of the castle.
I just don't understand the mentality of it to begin with. At some point, everyone was the newbie.
May just be the area, but I’ve honestly never once seen this in like 18 years of climbing...
@@danielbeall7725 Oh no it's never happened to me, nor have I seen it thankfully. I've read some comments online before and it was because of it being mentioned in the video and my experiences with it when it comes to other things
I never understood gatekeeping. I practice a couple of martial arts in which you are welcomed in and you learn the etiquette on day one. And the more senior people are required to teach as part of their advanced learning. This means everyone is on the same page and friendly. I think a lot of coldness from more experienced climbers comes from a love of thier comfort zones and forgetting what it's like to be a newbie.
I've never spilled my own chalk, but I DID experience the joy of a small child dumping their parent's chalk bag into my backpack. So that was fun :)
I experienced once spilling someone else chalk... it was quite embarrassing and an uncomfortable situation..
@@twariik8550 That usually happens because the bag was in bad spot to begin with. Chances are the owner felt bad too, so don't worry too much :)
free chalk
As a fairly new climber, I'd love an Albert Ok video on the climbing etiquette that newbies most often violate.
We need this
For me, the most annoying thing about "new" climbers is when there is a group of them, and they are super psyched to climb some problem together, and completely ignore that other people may want to climb in the same area (especially when these people were there before). Nothing is more annoying than to have a good rest before what could be the send go of your project, and then a group of 5 people comes along and projects the V2 that crosses your climb. So just check regularly if you're blocking someone else's climb, and give other people access to the wall in between the attempts of your group.
Otherwise it's relatively simple, just apply common sense and be respectful to others. Brush your climbs after you are done. Don't make people feel bad about their climbing, and avoid words like "just" or "only", as in "you just have to commit". Everyone is trying their best, if it were easy for them, they would have done what you tell them to do already. Don't make people feel bad about their body, for instance, don't act surprised when your shorter friend can't reach a hold you easily can, and don't laugh at someone who is too weak to hang on to an "easy" overhang. Be humble about your progress and answer compliments with compliments. The list could go on, but really, there point is that there are no secret rules, just be a decent human being and you'll be fine.
I agree with@@martinr113
tldr version
-be wary of fall zones
-be mindful that the gym is a shared space, don't hog a wall/don't start a climb if your route is near someone already on the wall
-use chalk, helps avoid greasing holds
-no climbing shoes in restrooms and no outdoor shoes on the mats/holds
Stay off the mats.
Well often newer clmbers aren't aware of their surroundings, ie which climb goes where, who else is climbing here, might they want to have their turn in the rotation, am I in someones fallzone? (often hard to judge for newer climbers when it's a problem with a bigger fallzone, so be alert!).
New climbers are factored into your gyms financial plans. If you want your gym to expand, buy new holds or even just, you know, stay open, its something you're going to have to deal with. Most people already feel out of place when they start climbing, so if you try to be polite when explaining things to them they usually take them to heart.
When they downgrade a problem destroying your ego.
I feel like everything in my gym is downgraded
The setter who hates me dropped a 7a to 6b+ because I flashed it. 🤷♂️
@Matthew Masek It's still a v9, good job !
never forget to INSTANTLY downgrade your projects the second you send it. Especially if there are other ppl around trying the same problem (mumbling somthing like "7a max, probably only 6c+) while you are hopping off.
Lol one of my pet projects was rated a v2 (I have been climbing for 2 months) but it had a massive campus or heal hook on an overhang that I am still trying to complete. After a week they made it a V3 because the setter made it a V3, which was a huge confidence boost. It is still kicking my rear though. Lol
albert: "and you're excited to try your new shoes out"
albert: wearing the rainbow crocs
( 2:41 )
Brilliant
6. Getting absolutely crop dusted by the dude next to you who just dunked his hands in chalk to later clap it all off
Shit I think I'm that guy, I'm sorry, gonna be more careful from now on (Sorry in the name of all chalk addcits >_
That guy who buys a bottle of water to dump it on his head instead of just drinking it. And then shakes it all over everyone.
@@Robert_McGarry_Poems That cant be a thing😂
There was one time when I crop dusted someone with a fart as we were climbing adjacent routes. He was not amused. Sorry bud, I couldn't hold it off much longer.
I just started climbing 2 months ago and holy crap are some people either willfully inconsiderate or ignorant of their surrounding. One particular time I'm sitting on a bench and this one dude standing inches from me basically claps a plume of chalk right into my face. I'm talking like actually making visible coverage on me that I had to shake off in an obviously noticeable way. The dude didn't even give a quick "sorry".
People who move around in groups and then rotate on a problem without taking any breaks to let others go and often stand near the problem looking at it. I’m fine with just cutting in to try the problem, but I know many people who are more shy and so they just get locked out of a problem.
In some cases ppl just dont realize that they are "hogging" the wall especially if its a group of 3/4 then your not on the wall all that much and its easy to focus in on a problem. You will find that ppl are usually very accommodating if you just ask if you can have a go at a nearby problem or even that one hey maybe you have a slightly different approach and you can beta share without spraying ofc :). Anyway that just imo and of course sometimes there will be assholes but hey if thats the case then maybe its best to find a different spot for that session
I'm one for those shy people. When I see groups try a problem I want to try it too but get too nervous to ask and cut in :(
@@viviannguyen4226 same here most of the time I feel too awkward to ask because they’re like all trying a boulder on the wall and i don‘t want to interrupt
Just go in and campus their problem ;)
Yo just ask even if nervous.
Even if you dislike the ppl hogging there.
The more often you ask the more natural it will become. Shy people will see your behaviour as guidance to dare and ask.
Albert: "Spoilers are bad"
Also Albert: Spoils Harry Potter in order to demonstrate why spoilers are bad. :))
If you didn't know by now that's kinda your own fault.
He didn't even mention the fact that quirrell has voldemort on the back of his head. Wait, dumbeldore dies?
I've just begun climbing 2 months ago now and absolutely love it. I go to the gym roughly 4 times a week now. The thing that keeps me wanting to come back is the community. At my local gym i find everyone is so polite and helpful. It felt super good when i struggled on a specific route maybe 50 times and finally finished it. It was awesome just finishing it but having people cheer me on when i finally did it was awesome. Even as somewhat of a beginner i feel like i belong even with the much stronger climbers.
I just started recently as well! And I agree, the community is like nothing I’ve experienced before and it’s just so fun and uplifting, matter how much experience you have :)
@@elanaszahn4092 Cool! Forgot about making this comment, little over 8 months in now and still agree. Have made some really good friends and know all the regulars that climb at my local gym. Half the reason i climb is to sit and chat with everyone at the gym lol
I'm the newbie in my group, and everyone constantly says it is just as fun to watch me learning as it is for me to watch them. (While I doubt that's genuinely the case, because watching the rest of them is crazy and inspiring, it does really make me feel great having that support. And even having random folks at the gym give a "hey awesome!" is just the best. Climbing is such a great sport specifically because we can all enjoy it together regardless of skill level.
@@badpopmusic I enjoy seeing people progress, improve, and enjoy the thrill of finally completing a route that's been challenging them.
So it's definitely enjoyable watching new people, and I've only been at it for a couple of months
Kind of a similar thing happened when I sent my first V7 at age 14 when I was at a comp. I tried the route like 9 times (tech start with a huge dyno finish) and finally got it. The adrenaline literally blinded me for a second but everyone was cheering and it was amazing :D
the worst one for me is unsupervised children running all over the gym
I mean they "usually" don't block your project and if they see how I'm falling off the wall they surely won't stand below me as I try to send my project ^^
Climbing is a playground. It’s playing for everyone. Kids should climb too. Many of the greatest climbers grew up climbing. That being said, children and parents should be aware of the dangers in the gym. That also being said, I’ve seen far more adults not respecting boundaries and being unsafe than small children. I say let them climb, but be good models for behavior.
@Lola Harwood its not even the 13 year olds, its the
What is even worse are babys. I have so many parents in my gym that just leave their babys on the dirty ground and climb behind their back it is infuriating!
They are blocking the routes, often scream through the whole gym and you can't even ask them to move because they don't understand you! I obviously don't blame the babies but the parents!
I'm a fairly new climber myself, and the thing I hate most is. How some experienced climbers look at you and talk about you like you don't belong there! Most of the people are very nice though. And I love the community I got into by not being able to play basketball during the Pandemic.
I agree with all of the points you made. I would like to add one more. When all the routes are set by tall humans and the difficulty is set by just making bigger moves. For short climbers it takes the fun out of it pretty quickly. I like to be challenges, but I don't want to break the beta on every route. Long story short... We need a big amount of short women that set hard as nails routes.
I’m 5’2 I feel your pain.
th-cam.com/video/8-z5XrhrIoQ/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=bigupproductions
I'm a 5'2 guy and I feel you. Tall people who rely on their height should not be setters imo
Weirdly enough, I have the opposite problem. None of the setters at my gym are tall (maybe 5'8" max), so a lot of betas feel really claustrophobic and ultimately the taller guys can just reach past some crux moves, making several boulders pretty boring. We can generally still do the correct beta, but it flows much worse than what was intended
One of the gym owners in my hometown is a badass lady like this. Short, but loves powerful, wildly overhanging big move climbing.
Went rock climbing for the first time ever today at a gym and it was amazing !!! Honestly I’m a bit overweight but people who were like really good at it were really nice to me. I’m glad that I found a brand new hobby
Do you still climb and if so how’s it going??
number one on my list: running kids.
i was a beta sprayer for like 6 months before someone told me something. I really thought i was being helpful and didnt understand the nature of what i was doing. I did work with alot of new climbers and helped them along, and i think thats partly why i would just do it with everyone. Manager had to come talk with me, but then i tottaly got it after. great video
Yeah me too, i'm very new and i just say stuff like oh trust your feet or you had that it was so easy, and i've said that to climbers several levels above me and one of them seemed annoyed at me and walked off after i was beta spraying. I feel bad now, i like encouraging people like saying you were so close or that's light but i should also not try to give "tips" to people obviously better than me knowing damn well that i can't do the routes they can.
The worst thing for me is when the beta sprayers are worse than you, they just don’t realize you are tired or trying to cheat the route in some cool or fun way.
Yeah, like when you are skipping holds and people point out the problem is easier when you do use them :-)
My gym is very small, so im always trying to find ways to skip holds, eretes or volumes to make a route harder than it needs to be because there arent enough routes at my level to keep improving. About once a session someone will point out a hold im obviously skipping on purpose or remind me the volume is on. Yes, i know this v2 wasnt intended to be massive dynos with an inverted bicycle hold at the top, and you watched me climb a handful of v4 and v5's, so you should understand that this route is nothing more than a warm up for me as it was set.
Same thing happened to me; I was projecting this V8 and a ~40 yr old guy was struggling on a V5 to the left of my project and was tryna gimme beta. I was like “my guy, I know you THINK you know what is the right beta, but there’s a different between knowing something in concept, and actually knowing what it’s like to execute in practice”. The thing is that when you see someone doing a hard problem that you haven’t tried, you think you’re seeing with clear eyes and that you have something to offer, but like 97% of the time they know far more than you do because they’ve been trying it and can actually do the moves
Can't agree more. One time, my friend was helping me work out a move and this person who clearly just started climbing not long ago abruptly walks up to us and proceeds to explain to us the difference between our beta before the crux move...yes random person, we are clearly in need of beta on moves that we can both do instead of the actual crux.
@@Aleesedbsk Maybe improving your beta on the beginning would give you more strength to finish the crux?
I agree with this list 100%. As someone who works/sets at a small family-owned gym, I hate when regulars complain about new members or even people getting day passes. Gatekeepers don't realize that when gyms get more business that's how they are able to upgrade walls/remodel/ or even yet ordering some nice new holds. I get it that some visitors suck and disregard every rule of orientation, but not every new member is going to be a pro off the bat. But it is cool seeing the regulars connect with the new climbers and helping them get into the higher grades.
When you’re on a route and someone gets on another one that gets in your way.
Hate that. It's basically the same as one surfer dropping in on another that's already on the wave. Just wait your turn, and if you're the one already climbing, I'll wait mine.
This one feels more important than any of the other ones albert put on his list
I was about to send a route and a guy just hops on right in front of me
Overlapping happens more often in crowded gyms. Since people are impatient or just lack the foresight to check if their route intersects with another climber.
My friend or dad always tells me if I am going to far over so I have to go the other way
I’ll confess I do give advice sometimes, I usually appreciate it when people give me advice so I never really thought of it as a negative. I’ve also never given it for anything really technical it’s usually when they’ve clearly forgotten a obvious hold exists on the route that would help them and knowone ever seemed offended. Another motivation for me for that is I have knowone to go climbing with and usually it’s a good excuse to start a conversation. I’ve made two friends that way.
I just got into climbing and probably would like advise if I struggle with a problem for a longer time. I guess it depends on the situation, tone and how good of a climber you are.
You just have to ask if they want the help first. Don't just blurt it out!
Him : "Hey want some advice?"
*Me, holding by a single pumped arm, in the middle of a barndoor, about to be yeeted to the next gym, red like a tomato and sweating like it's raining inside* "WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE?"
I also don't mind a little help and I do help others tho 2 things: I never advise above my level (I am a a little better than a complete beginner) and only if I can tell the person has been struggling for some time. I guess it's because I don't mind advises from better climbers, it helps me grow :3 People at my gym help each other a lot and I never see anyone being mad about it.
If you ask before and they want help, thats okay.
I like to get technical advices, but I really hate when someone spoilers the route to me.
Team kids crushing my project.
Oh no...my PTSD :c Not only did he flashed my project without projecting it for a second he also flashed the black one (hardest difficulty in my gym) beside it where even a regular climber who climbs on this lvl struggled...That was nightmare fuel...
Oh man. I’ve had nightmares of that for the last 13 years.
Why are kid climbers so good + so confident? One of the workers at my gym assured me they'd been climbing since like 3, whereas my fatass had only a few months of experience. Still makes you feel disheartened when they're just hoisting themselves up without a care + I have to reassure myself my hands are strong enough for that hold for the fourth time haha
Only made worse when they do eliminates or campus it
@The Climbing Channel Don't ever apologize for being a stronger climber than someone. You worked for that. It's not like you're doing it to be shitty, and that's what matters. This joke just stems from adults' insecurities about kids being better than them at something.
6. Bleeding on holds and being proud of it.
Knew a guy who admitted he was bleeding one time but decided to give it another go before getting a bandaid like it was him being badass and not just gross
I bled on a hold for the first time after not realizing I knocked the shit out of my knee and felt fucking horribleeeeee
Kids. I hate kids in the bouldering area. They are completely unpredictable and dangerous, and parents seem to think that's fine for some weird reason.
In my gym the problem is more the groups of kids, we only a have a "small" bouldering area and when a group of kids come, forget about trying anything where they are u.u
Kids actively want you to kick them during a dyno or crush them as you fall off the wall
Under 16s are banned from the boldering rooms at my local gym. Which I find a shame, but apparently there were too many accidents.
@WungusBill in my gym, there is a birthday area in the back with a bunch of easy holds to deal with this.
@@Pshady Maybe if they have several rooms they can have one only for the kids? We have a kids climbing room on the second floor, but it's for kids below 4. I mean when they are around 10 they start to understand, I think 16 is a little bit too much...
Beta spraying is definitely the most polarizing of this list. Some never want to hear beta so they can enjoy the solving aspect, while others enjoy it so they can do a problem that's within their physical capabilities or have an easy way to strike a conversation.
I feel like it's just the approach that would make or break for me. Unless they're completely new, asking if they're interested in beta or if they're just trying their own thing doesn't hurt.
Edit: I just remembered the first time I went outdoor climbing, my friend and I were trying to get past the crux of a V3 and some homie in running shoes hopped on, told us that campusing the move is easier, and proceeded to campus said move with ease. It wasn't in a condescending way either; he seemed pretty confident that we could do it that way, but it was pretty funny experience. We were tired by then though, so maybe next time we'll try that campus move
It's always easy to just ask, "Hey, you want some advice/beta on that climb?" This sidesteps everything annoying about beta spraying. Also, you really shouldn't even really be offering any advice unless you've climbed it before and you've seen them fail quite a few times. I don't even consider offering unless I've seen someone fall on a single move 5 times or more. Giving people the answers, even if they're willing to hear it, makes them worse climbers in the long run. They should actually try to solve the problem themselves.
I’m seeing plenty of comments about power screamers. It’s weird, I grunt during Crux moves (I’m no Adam ondra on the volume of my screams), but it just happens. And I actually LOVE hearing someone else power scream. It’s for some reason enjoyable to me seeing someone put in that much effort. Can anyone relate? 🤔
I relate. Sometimes screams happen unintentionally because holy shit you're pumped and holding onto those tiny crimps at the near finish of your project hurts like hell and you're literally using every last ounce of strength to get there. But the guy that's grunt screaming like he's powerlifting every move on a 10a starting from the very first hold? Now that's just attention seeking, imo.
Yes
I feel you i love when i hear loud grunts or power screams from across the climbing gym or even in a regular weight lifting gym, i feel like it gives it more of an atmosphere and real gym vibe
I usually direct people that complain about power screaming to the Planet Fitness up the street.
I relate and in other sports like weightlifting it is crucial for most athletes to be able to push through tough challenges
We call Slab Grinding 'Cheese Grating' at my gym, because the routes are set in such a way that you'll end up with chunks missing from chin to shin xD
Lol when the gym invests in new holds.
And your fingers are just bone and blood after one session hahaha get grated boii
I've only ever slab grinded once, and it wasn't even on a slab 😂🥲 It was in the cave at my gym, I went for a reach that I didn't make, and scraped my index finger on the wall most of the way down, taking off several layers of skin and almost exposing a vein with how deep it was. I was just glad it waited to start bleeding till after I walked away so I didn't get blood on the wall or holds 😂
@@katelynplatt9044 That sounds like it hurt! My worst was climbing a crimpy slab V6, both my hands and feet slipped off when there was a big volume directly under my chin. Suffice to say, I have a neat little scar there now 😄
Outdoors it is called cheese grading as well. I've never heard of the term "slab grinding."
I hate birthday party's, the kids always go in your way, and when you're climbing a problem, they go stand underneath you, so you can't jump off
and they need ur chalk, and want to know what leading is, and want to belay, and want to learn how to self belay.
Saying that Albus Dumbledore dies even without saying who kills him is a spoil ...
Who kills him?
@@ownedinc4274 Harry
@@ownedinc4274 crookshanks
Yeah it's pretty dumb
You can find out who kills him!
You should do a top 5 faves too, just to generate some positivity. It's good to celebrate the ups too :)
Some of my "tops":
You always know the routes will be dry!
There's almost always somebody at my level (or better) if I need advice, or just some moral support 😅
Coming in to an empty gym with fresh routes just set 😍
I'm still a novice climber and I'm really lucky to have an experienced friend who taught me about bouldering and gym etiquette. I kept coming back to my local climbing gym because everyone there was so positive and non-judgemental. Most of the people there were great climbers, but they were also understanding that I was there to have fun and just get a good workout.
when you're working on a problem and someone just casually walks up and flashes it easily.
As a pretty strong climber (absolutely bragging here) I do that all the time, warming up on people's projects or doing circuits on them, I actually feel bad for them and I know how they must think I'm just rubbing it in their faces but what am I supposed to do 😬
@@etiennevandamme3566 I think it's fine actually. I say this as an intermediate to weaker climber, who's been on both sides of this plenty of times. I often find it inspiring instead of discouraging actually. If I don't want to have the beta "spoiled," I'll look away, but if I'm feeling stuck, I'll watch and take mental notes. Watching stronger climbers is a really good learning opportunity.
I like when that happens because it gives me motivation to complete the route or problem and see how someone else overcomes it.
@@etiennevandamme3566 lol I often ask the guys to do that specifically so I can study them and ask about tips or specific parts when they come down.
Biggest pet peeve is when you jump to the finishing hold in desperation but it ends up being a bad hold and you fall off
Not sure you can blame anyone else for that 🙂
@@diabl2master it was a pet peeve about what he hates in gym climbing, not something about any other people
I once fell off the wall and rolled backwards on to my back, my chalk bag rolled forwards and emptied its contents on to my face and into my mouth
I'm not climbing on high level at all, so that might make a difference, but I kind of like the "beta sprayers". It is a bit like helping each other out. It also did improve my technique when higher skilled climbers helped me out. I understand it would be different in a less casual setting.
I think the idea is to ask if someone wants help without giving it.
This is a good rule of thumb for life tbh. People having problems aren't necessarily looking for advice, and there's no harm in checking first
Am I the only one who like being beta sprayed as long as it works? I don't like wasting time climbing with the wrong beta.
I like to see what I can do, probably spend 10 minutes figuring out what works and what doesn't, then maybe I'll ask the setter for beta just so I can test my strength, not my brain power
It's a spectrum. There are ways to do it that are nice, and if I'm just totally missing something obvious then I welcome it. But I feel like some people can be a bit obnoxious, and if it's something more subtle I'd rather try to figure it out myself.
I think that really depends on the Grade you climb. I feel like when climbing on lower grades its better for learning to figure out how to grab different types of holds on your own. While when climbing higher grades then I find that its most welcomed (in my case anyway) as I am clearly usually just missing something obvious or I'm over thinking it. But I can see both sides of the coin and understand if some just want to work it out.
Beta spraying is mostly annoying for me - especially when I fall off something and someone just HAS to tell me what they did. A lot of the time since I'm smaller, I may not be able to do the beta their way and I think generally I would ask someone who works at the gym for beta if I'm really struggling because they work there. 🤷 Personally am not a fan because it can come across as mansplaining (based on experience).
This is exactly my thoughts. id love to know how to climb the route. If i can do it, then i can learn from it. If im failing on it, i have no idea why im failing on it. I will assume its because “im not strong enough”.
My pet peeve in gyms is when experienced climbers, hog space in front of the wall.
These are the people stand in front of the boulder reading beta, try it and fall, stay there and read it again, try once more, repeat 2-4 times... they leave their chalk bag or bucket in the fall zone of others, they climb into the fall zone of others and expect the other person to drop off the wall to avoid it (even if Hog got on their climb after the other person)
projecting or not, time limits or w/e circumstance, it's just common courtesy to wait in a queue and some people for w/e reason don't care about that.
The last one is really true, I work at a climbing gym and our members always complain about it. I told them if they don’t want new people or kids coming in to buy day passes and try climbing they can pay more for their memberships
When whoever's controlling music in the gym skips a song you need for that little bit of extra power -.-
Dude! We use the same gym! Woot! Gotta love ABP ❤️
I used to complain about greasy gym holds, then I started climbing on limestone.
trusting your feet just isn’t an option 😭
There's a classic spot near me that's sandstone that has been climbed on for around 50 years or more. High traffic, local, easy access near a big climbing community. I often wonder what the problems were originally like because ik they were nothing like they are now.
Kind of sad and also ego destroying when you're crushing 7s and 8s indoors and can't do a V2 because the grading hasn't changed even tho the problem has changed over decades. Lol still fun tho.
How about low lying very large volumes, I feel like they are achilles tearing machines. These should be left to areas where you can put them where there is no way to fall unexpectedly onto them from large heights.
This!
Monstrous volumes at the bottom of the slab wall, shitty little foot holds on the last move, you know you’ll hit something on the way down 🤷🏻♂️
This is why I hate the trend of pseudo-slab by slapping volumes on vert. Despite sucking at it, I really enjoy slab. And there aren't enough opportunities to practice it because there's always something that can seriously injure me.
That´s funny cause I actaully prefer them to high lying volums. Espacially the ones on whom you can slip easily. Sliping in 20 cm and falling isn´t so bad but when you are already 2m up it cans really hurt.
@@leotastic5572 The problem isn't slipping off the volume. It's slipping off the tiny foot jib that's above the volume and having your ankle shatter when you crash into the volume.
I love when people are trying to coach me while I'm on the wall. I know why others don't, but I want other people to feel like they're part of what I'm doing
..it's not exactly a team sport bro.
@@two_tone_xlophone2630 Im not trying to say it is or should be.
"Coaching" is different from giving the solution to a problem.
Yep likewise, personally find it really helpful and makes me feel part of a community.
@@MrCmon113 it is not always about knowing the solution, but about putting it into practice. I have been climbing with the better climbers at my gym and frequently ask for help on what I should be doing. Often times I have the solution, I am simply not strong enough yet, or I am supporting my weight incorrectly. knowing I have the right idea and learning how to read the routes is the best pick me up I can get when it comes down to just my physical limitations.
One thing gym climbers hate: hearing outdoor climbers talking shit about gym climbing.
Outdoor climbing is way more satisfying than gym climbing. Especially lead climbing. Don't you agree?
@@riccardoscalisi8942 Absolutely but I dont wanna hear someone talk shit about my truck cause they drive a ferrari
@@zyther96 Outdoor is actually cheaper than indoor
plastic pullers aren't actually rock climbers....how can you be a rock climber if you never even touch rock? but here we are, living in modern times where everything is shit and climbing has become mainstream enough to where gym climbers exist.....all good things are ruined by the masses.
@@riccardoscalisi8942 it depends if ita nearby sure, but if not definitely not
Being nice to new climbers is the most amazing thing. I really appreciate it when people at my gym say "good job!" to me after seeing me fail for an hour, never be afraid to encourage people.
When you go to a gym and they allow people to wear their climbing shoes in the bathroom
At this point I'm too afraid to ask what's wrong with this)
Lol how would they enforce such a thing bruh
@@Krushard shit and piss can be on the bathroom floor, you could step on it and then go to the climbing wall.
As a new climber, the community has been more than kind. Literally everyone I've met has been so supportive it makes me want to climb even more
10 year olds flashing my proj
It huuurts!!! haha, I justify it by them being only 80 lbs and having ALL the energy in the world. Still feels bad though
When I first went to a gym I didn’t realize that all the nicely laid out bags of chalk weren’t provided by the gym.
I’ll always be polite and even offer chalk if I see someone making the same mistake I did on their first time out.
Omg at least I'm not the only one. Took me until my third time there to notice that I was just stealing someone's chalk.
The amount of times I've head butted a hold after checking my foot placement.
My most hated climbing problem is flappers. I can be having a great session feeling it then the skin on my hands decide to give out and it really ruins the momentum for the next few sessions
file down your calluses, that will help
I actually love getting unsolicited beta from more experienced climbers because that way I can actually learn from problems that I can't seem to solve on my own.
I think the most important part there is more experienced. Like they need to not just know the beta but also see that it is within your ability and let to you try it enough times on your own to see that you are just wearing yourself out without making any progress.
Meh, I don't think this culture should be reinforced. Like Albert said, pretty annoying if you're trying to figure it out on your own.
If you're really having trouble, just ask. Climbers r generally friendly and open to sharing beta. And if you're shy, then just watch someone send the problem and steal their beta.
I think the difference is when they ask you if you want to have the solution. If they just give unsolicited advice to people there is a good chance the person doesn’t want it and it ruins their try off the route. I personally like advice after I couldn’t figure it out for a long time but wouldn’t want it in the beginning.
Yeah I never understood people being mad about beta being shared
@@cameronline3780 They're mad when people give it unsolicited. If I can solve the problems myself, that makes me a better climber. You're stunting my growth by just giving me the answers before I've had some time to think and try stuff out.
I've been climbing for just a little over two years, I work at a climbing gym, run all of our teams and leagues, and the one thing that irritates me beyond ALL ELSE is gatekeeping. God it is so toxic. Thanks for mentioning it.
what is gatekeeping?
the only people who worry about gatekeeping and things being toxic are the insecure and those who can't hang....i've been climbing for 30 years and the thing that irritates me beyond belief is my lifes passion becoming industrialized and sold to a bunch of twats in the city so they can come out to my backyard and crap all over everything on the weekends.........i'd rather not climb than be a gym climber.
guess we both just have to live with the way things are. lol
@@two_tone_xlophone2630 bro why do you think anyone cares like im genuinely curious
@@two_tone_xlophone2630 some of us don't have outdoor rocks to climb on, and outdoor climbing is intimidating. I personally have never outdoor climbed, primarily for the first. I wouldn't have even thought of trying outdoor because the equipment and effort to go was to daunting for the high likelihood of not enjoying it.
@@adaelion3772 would you go to the local community pool and swim underwater then tell everyone you're a diver? that's what you're doing here, "oh diving equipment is too expensive, there's no deep water near me and i might not even enjoy it, but i swim underwater at the local pool so I'm a diver" is exactly what you lot sound like.....i'm not judging you for not climbing outdoors, i really don't care, in fact i think it's great, it's just less people in my backyard taking up routes, i'm judging you for claiming to be something you are not, i have more respect for the person who is self actualized enough and humble enough to know the things they are not than the one who self aggrandizes the things they do.....i ride my mountain bike down big mountains along trails but i'd never call myself a downhill mountain biker, the guys who do that are on a totally different level than myself, i'm a trail rider at best and i have no problem with telling people that, i'm confident enough and like myself enough to not have to pretend to be things i am not in order to impress other people or even fool myself into believing i'm better than what i actually am at something....i suck or am able to do a lot of things half assed and that's ok, if i only ever climbed in a gym i wouldn't call myself a rock climber, i'd just tell people i like to work out by going to a climbing gym instead of a regular gym and that would be ok for me too....i find it really strange how you lot get so injured by being told the truth....it's in the literal name, ROCK climbing, you have to actually climb on rock if you are to be one, a rock climber isn't a ice climber and a gym climber is neither....it's not rocket science.
When someone walks up and sends the problem you've been working on for an hour and then just walks away. And dudes with their shirts off, especially if they are still wearing their hat
I live for that feeling, when big muscular guys are working hard on a problem and I just flash it in front of their eyes and walk away like its nothing. Gives me such an ego boost.
@@peacebuddha96 i get that, but I'm just a humble weekend warrior and it's a bit discouraging lmao. FYI my shirt always stays on
I think a primer on etiquete is very useful. I beta sprayed all the time until some one once asked me whether I wanted the tall guy beta on a problem. That made me realize people sometimes don't want the beta. Then I had to learn to ask first.
That sound proof 'booth' of yours for voiceovers really works wonders bro! I'll have grab my blanket from my bedroom on my next edit.
The gyms here have been closed for the past month due to Covid, and I want to get back to all of these
they've been closed for 3 months so far over here with no end in sight. I feel your pain
and now the government is like „schools should be reopened“ like WTF... how are the brains of those ppl working... if that happens we need to write 8 big exams in the next month without proper information about them nor good preparation bc of online schooling...
I started training at home since november to get a good start when they reopen. I tried outdoor boudering for the first time at 3°C outside. Damn I just want the gyms back.
They've been closed for over three months here, and we would've gone skiing but that's impossible due to Covid.
I miss the gyms and fencing and also mountains (I live in northern germany, the highest "mountain" here is 167 m high).
Well, maybe some stuff will reopen before I graduate next year, Covid can't last forever...
Things gym climbers hate: Not being able to climb because your country fails to control the pandemic over and over again.
I'm confused, isn't closing the gym what they are doing to try to control the pandemic? I personally think that the government shouldn't close gyms but people should just make decisions for themselves with whatever they are comfortable with.
@@kennyduncan7 Yep it is. But if you are opening stuff again without a plan to keep numbers low you will get a lookdown -> "normal" -> lookdown... loop.
@@kennyduncan7 woosh! not the point. you missed hard.
@@hilemanluke I mean, from what I can tell, the country is doing what they can to control the pandemic. All my classes are online, I have to wear a mask pretty much everywhere, I constantly need to be tested for covid. What did I miss? If I remember correctly, it took nearly a year since covid started for things to get semi-normal again.
@@kennyduncan7 you are right! I have these things to! I agree! the internet and a comment section is no place to have a full convo about this. BUT, (and make no mistake covid is NOT gone, Delta is a real thing.) government didn't handle the virus early on and different states as well(depends on where in the world you live but America is a nightmare), although you can't dwell on that for we didn't have any sway in that. as I do agree with you that people should decide weather or not to go and do things, (the reason I found your comment wrong is that it is objective that the pandemic has hit the world hard and infrequently. that is objectively true. I am merely defending the fact that it did and is happening and that the closing of gyms early on helps the spread, especially since you are touching and sweating on the same holds) it's incredibly insensitive and stupid for me to comment something so pessimistic and short on a comment in a TH-cam video. so i apologize for not making myself clear and making a stupid comment.
I was doing a really hard traverse boulder and just finished the hard section when a kid started climbing right below me, so I had to wait and got too tired
When you're going for a running start and miss the foot and bang up your poor shins
I got a day pass 2 weeks ago, the friendliness of the people there that night and all the words of encouragement had me back the next day paying for a membership and even buying my own gear. Haven’t even came close to thinking I made a mistake. Been in ever chance I could get. Struggled on the white routes. Now I’m clearing green routes within a 3rd attempt. So thankful for the fellas and ladies that gave me a chance when they saw me just standing there looking lost and puzzled
How did Albert just spoil Harry Potter!
How haven't you watched it 👁👄👁
I literally didn't know dumbledore was killed...
I'm reading the whole series for the first time before watching the films. As a kid only made it to the fourth book before the wait for the fifth lost my interest. I mean I've been avoiding HP spoilers for years but come on Albert seriously, right now?? lol just going to have to wait a few more weeks until I finish the books to watch Albert, something to look forward to I guess.
Yo if you haven't seen that movie by now it's your own fault
@@brittany3891 True dat
Maybe my gym just has a different culture but i don’t think i’ve ever seen somebody get mad at somebody else trying to help them figure out the route. People always stand in groups talking about the problems trying different solutions together telling people where holds are that they might not see because of some awkward position or just cheering each other on. I do always ask before i give somebody advice but i have yet to hear somebody decline it. Maybe it’s because we are a relatively casual beginner friendly gym but yea. And from my own personal experience while problem solving is cool having a friend show you a solution for a problem you’ve been fighting for a while trying it out and figuring out why it worked is just as satisfying at least for me. What matters at the end is wether you got to the top.
I’m a new climber and am trying to avoid being rude at the gym so I’ve been doing as much research as I can online but am still anxious that I am doing something wrong 😩 thank you for making this
Same🙃 Especially if it gets packed and a group of advanced climbers comes close to my route. But I guess I’m getting better at just focusing on myself and hope that they know I try my best
Just be nice and sty out of the way is all you really need to know!
Dude the thing I hate the most is when people steal your chalk when you aren’t looking like taking a hand full
"Beta Sprayers" is a delicate one. Having a friendly and helpful atmosphere in the climbing gym is a great thing, but boulder routes (to me) are movement puzzles. Set objects you have to move around to reach a goal with your very own, individual body composition/technique/etc. I don't mind a hint here and there if somebody looks completely helpless/frustrated, but figuring it out on your own is a big part of the fun.
Put another way: How am I supposed to get better/more creative in my climbing when all my problem solving gets squashed by some idiot whose self-esteem depends on being the constantly helpful guy/gal?
people asking "are you ever gunna do any real climbing" referring to climbing outdoors
On a more serious note, regarding your last point. As a new climber… I sometimes feel like more experienced climbers resent me being there taking up space in the extremely small bouldering section.
I think it might be that they are frustrated rather than happy the climbing community is growing so fast, because it causes inconvenience.
It is frustrating and for anyone who enjoys climbing for the social aspect, it’s a game ender. Luckily for me though I do it for the challenge, adventure and self improvement aspects of climbing
I got started in local small gyms where the main thing was community where the best climbers in the gym who can send 7a problems will cheer on a newbie climber trying to do a 5a. Since going overseas to more larger commercial gyms, I don't see the same kind of community, which is a shame.
I hate it when newbie climbers run up to the wall and start climbing without noticing that their v3 collides with my v8
Went climbing today and my hands hurt so bad now. Haven’t been in a while and went to a new gym for the first time, was a lot of fun tho!
A little more to grease on holds is chalk does not grip, do not put this on footholds, but do use chalk on a brush to help clean holds of shoe rubber, grease, and even glassen chalk. This is in particular true if the gym you are at uses those smooth vinyl mats rather than carpet, as you will find grey dust coating every foothold which is ground shoe rubber.
To add to brushing skills; more pressure does not clean better. You're just destroying the brush. And if it's a gym brush, that means they have to keep spending money replacing them instead of being able to buy new holds.
I hate when people spend like 30+ minutes on a wall switching between them and their friend and don't let anyone else get on that section.
But let's not get too focused on the negative things since climbing is such a great sport :)
I’m mixed on this. If they’re projecting something that they’re really close to getting, I totally understand. It is very rewarding when ya finally get that send. If it’s something way out of their league and they’re hogging the problem, then yea it can definitely be annoying.
Worse case scenario, you can just stand really close to problem and swoop in like a vulture when they fall off.
In some cases ppl just dont realize that they are "hogging" the wall especially if its a group of 3/4 then your not on the wall all that much and its easy to focus in on a problem. You will find that ppl are usually very accommodating if you just ask if you can have a go at a nearby problem or even that one hey maybe you have a slightly different approach and you can beta share without spraying ofc :). Anyway that just imo and of course sometimes there will be assholes but hey if thats the case then maybe its best to find a different spot for that session
That's true Vesper there's always another side to it :)
That's also a good point Nightseye. I have this group of people at my gym that always do it though and I'm sure they realize it lol.
@@climbingbird Yup there are always ppl that will do things even if they know its at best a little rude. I think it also comes down to a question of how many ppl is to many working in one area/ on a problem. Lets say theres a group of 3 more or less hogging a problem and you think it looks interesting and want to try so you are like well they are being rude hogging that wall. Now lets picture a group of 12 ppl working at a problem you come across that and think well theres a lot of ppl at this wall so lets go to another area. I guess it comes down to how many ppl you think should be allowed to work on a problem/ how long you want to wait for a go at it. IMO its a shitty situation when it happens but usually gyms are big enough that you can find a different area to climb in. I also know that this might depend on how the gym does its resets. I know that my gym use to reset one section of wall before and that area would always be crowded every time there where new problems. So they switch over to resetting a few problems all over the gym but that made ppl spread out more improved flow a lot more. Sorry seems like im in a ranty mood today.
@@WilliamBlack4 It's all good lol. I see what you are saying though :)
My first time climbing I thought the chalk bags were part of the gym. I used someone's chalk bag and my friend turned all red. The bag owner laughed and was chill about it
I like my gym so far (started climbing 4 months ago), but being new, and now seeing brand new people come in, its a tad chilly of a culture to any brand new people that after the rapid fire day pass intro thing they got, they are mostly left interested yet bewildered and climbers already in groups or otherwise feel no need to greet such strangers. I keep thinking that gym cultures need to see new faces and have a more like "hey, come on in, you need anything let us know, welcome to the party!"
Yeah I just started climbing in a small gym and have no clue about how the right behaviour looks like. And especially when it gets full with more advanced climbers that gives me a lot of anxiety bc no one shows you wehster your doing stuff right and all that.
People relaxing on the mat, on their phones, blocking routes.
Tips for beta sprayer, do the problem in front of the guy struggling. Up to him to watch your solution or not.
A reformed beta sprayer
Riiiiight
I’m just going to assume this is a troll.
@@ddscott12 what's the issue?
Mine would be when you're half way up a hard problem you've been projecting and someone, most likely newbie, jumps on another problem that intersects or ends very close to yours. it's frustrating when you've only got a couple more good climbs left in the session but you have to jump off to be safe because they didn't realize they've climbed right under you or where your problem is leading.
People throughing chalk in the air to watch it "snow"
I call them Elsas
Oof. That spilling chalk really hit me in the heart. I dropped so much the other day and tried so hard to scoop as much as I could back into my bag
I'm fairly new to climbing, so the beta spraying section really started me thinking. My thoughts went in several waves of self reflection and contemplations.
My immediate reaction was that I like beta sprayers and beta spraying. It still helps me to learn a route even if the beta isn't best for my body. Not just hearing other people's thoughts, but talking through my own thoughts with someone else and hearing their reaction of my thoughts. It's not that there's one way of solving a problem, but many ways and talking through them with other people and other opinions helps understanding. Sometimes it's questions about what they're trying to do which could be construed as beta spraying.
But then came the wave of self reflection. I thought about times that I've discussed a problem with someone and thought about how it might have been received in a negative way. I may have yelled at someone on the wall, and I can definitely see how that could be annoying. But, there have also been times when someone has been on the wall and looking confused and seeming to want advice that has been well received. However, it's definitely something that I'll try to be more aware of in regards to the particular person on the wall.
In the self reflection part, I read through all of the comments regarding beta spraying. A clear pattern emerged that those climbers that were newer or looking to socialize seemed to like beta spraying. And an idea came to me was that beta spraying hate was a form of gatekeeping. Beta spraying actually helps newer climbers to both improve their own beta and to feel welcome in a community.
Then the last thought was the comment that beta spraying was cheating in the competition setting. At first I just took that at face value, but then realized that it was 99% wrong. In the observation phase, the climbers are discussing beta with each other, miming the routes and the moves. Any hold back of beta isn't because of rules, but only to give themselves an advantage if they see a beta that would aid themselves more. But, you can definitely see that competitors share, and share more often with their own team as whole teams will share similar beta.
Maybe it's just because I'm new to climbing, but both sides of beta sharing (listening and giving) seem like a integral parts of a growth mindset. In every discipline, people share their techniques and listen and learn from the techniques of others to continually improve. You need to come up with ideas and bounce them off of other people to learn more. You work on a route with someone else and build off of each other's beta.
I can definitely see how beta sprayers can be annoying, but rather than correcting the annoyance by sharing less, maybe we should be correcting the annoyance by being more open to the thoughts of others.
Once, a long time ago, there was a wise Zen master. People from far and near would seek his counsel and ask for his wisdom. Many would come and ask him to teach them, enlighten them in the way of Zen. He seldom turned any away. One day an important man, a man used to command and obedience came to visit the master. “I have come today to ask you to teach me about Zen. Open my mind to enlightenment.” The tone of the important man’s voice was one used to getting his own way.
The Zen master smiled and said that they should discuss the matter over a cup of tea. When the tea was served the master poured his visitor a cup. He poured and he poured and the tea rose to the rim and began to spill over the table and finally onto the robes of the wealthy man. Finally the visitor shouted, “Enough. You are spilling the tea all over. Can’t you see the cup is full?”
The master stopped pouring and smiled at his guest. “You are like this tea cup, so full that nothing more can be added. Come back to me when the cup is empty. Come back to me with an empty mind.”
There's a difference between sharing beta and beta spraying. It's fine to give someone beta if they ask for it or if you confirm with them first that they're OK receiving beta. Beta spraying is when someone gives it to you that is completely unsoliticed. That's what we're complaining about
Finally mastering that project that took you days and then realizing that there was a box finish
Cling ons- so you’ve already been at the gym for 1-2hours, but then mr marvellous comes in fresh, and keeps following and watching routes you are trying, and every time you jump off he jumps on to show you that he can do it lol. Used to happen in weights gym too, they jump on and add weight to show off, even though you’ve almost finished your work out. Anyone agree? :)
I have been into long distance hiking and camping for my whole life. Have recently found an interest in climbing, so if the lockdown ever gets sorted out, maybe I will find myself at a climbing gym. Looks fun.
The beta spraying issue is actually tricky. I naturally like helping people with stuff I found difficult. Of course I don't walk up to anyone and just SHOW THEM how it's done, but I myself enjoy watching other people do a boulder I don't understand. So if I see someone struggling, I walk up to them and drop a hint. But apparently some people even hate being asked if they'd like some advice. Without youtube, I wouldn't even know that this is such a huge controversy...
It's not tricky, unless someone asks you for beta shut your trap!
@@shanequastunningbrave5376 so apparently beta spraying is the worst but lack of common decency on the internet is completely ok. Got it 👍 How about you "shut your trap" until you figure out how to frase your thoughts in a way that's less rude?
@@shanequastunningbrave5376 speak for yourself. I've seen your comments in other videos and you honestly seem to have some anger issues. Me and my friends always appreciate some hints/beta on a problem we can't figure out. It's not that serious at all, and if it really annoys you that much, just tell them. One rule is though, that if someone is worse than me or has much less experience, i don't appreciate it that much
@@henrikblomqvist720 It's an astonishingly simply concept, unless someone asks for beta don't give it or at least ask if they want beta before offering it, not sure what the difficulty in comprehending this is exactly?
WRT chalk bags getting knocked over: I just wear mine. Even for bouldering. The weight is minimal, and it lets me chalk up on the wall if needed.
i think he’s talking about the larger bouldering chalk bags that are too big to clip on
Yeah then you fall on your back one time and suddenly your entire back and the mat are covered in chalk
The first time I grabbed a spinner I almost quit forever lol.
Slab grinding is my biggest fear and holds me back so much with leading. I am not strong enough to take advantage of overhang, so I have to try overcoming my fear all the time.
Thanks for making great climbing content Albert. I’ve been binging your channel recently and I noticed that there has been some issues with audio levels. By this, I mean that the audio of your voice over is much lower compared to the music at the title transitions. This creates an unpleasant viewing experience because a viewer would have to crank up the volume to hear your voice but then they would be blasted by the transition music. I suggest reviewing the audio using different common listening setups (phone speakers, headphones, earbuds, etc.) and keeping a careful eye on the audio levels in your editing software. Cheers!
I’m fairly new to climbing ~5 months. I’m still making it up in numbers and try to go higher to challenge myself but people will say “I can make this” and “don’t give up” like that’s not my goal. I’m just trying to learn new holds and movements sometimes. It makes me feel awful cuz I know I’m not there yet and everyone is looking and expecting way more.
I can relate soooo badly to the spilling chalk one, once I was at the top of a 15 metre route and my ball of chalk fell out of my bag... The dust covered about half of the gym 😓
I like how you didn’t poke at casual or new climbers. Rather shared really good insights, advice, and encouraged new climbers.
I have friends who are experienced climbers and will take me from time to time and I always feel gate keeping is real. And a lot of the time the gate keepers aren’t even good climbers.
When people graze on the pads near the wall, with benches and chairs galore nearby.
The other day a very well known team USA climber came by my home gym for a session and ended up campusing a V6 ish overhang I had struggled with previously. Absolute monster.