Your videos are all instructive but this is EXACTLY the kind of video that I like to watch. Many thanks for taking the time and effort to make them. Best wishes for 2022.
Incredible work Peter. I just did an Inconel job and had the same thread milling issue you mentioned - had to put a bunch of 1/4-20’s 5/8 deep. Ended up hand tapping all of them to chase them to size. A pain, but better than breaking a tap trying to just tap them outright. Thanks for the incredible content. I’ve learned a lot from your videos.
The wrench in the chuck... One day my son wanted to do some lathe work. he wanted to turn some rounded corners on a shift knob he made for his truck. He grew up around that lathe, and is ( was ) a bit too comfortable on that day. He turned the ball end on one side of the T shifter handle, flipped the part and was getting ready to turn the other end. I looked up just in time to see him hit the power switch, and the chuck key prominently sitting in the lathe chuck. I yelled STOP but it was too late. The chuck key hit the wall, bounced off the ceiling and hit him square in the forehead. It made a t shaped bruise on his forehead and he apparently had a splitting headache. Funny, he's not made that mistake twice.
The only reason I pointed this out in the video. What I was doing is not a problem on this machine. But I don't want to leave the impression that this is the way you should do this, on another machine. It is not something you should get use to doing.
Frank, I could show you guys the same thing Titan does. Massive feeds and speeds for a ten second clip. But in reality on real jobs. No one would trust that and risk expensive material, tooling and equipment.
@@EdgePrecision Absolutely, that’s what I’m saying. They get views because they do “wow, that’s pretty cool!” things, and then put an insane clickbait title that attracts people. Yours is the complete opposite. Your titles are neutral and describe the point of the video in a concrete way. Almost as if they were for you only to watch. But then in the video you’re making these super cool set-ups that almost no one has even did or seen before. Titans get views from everyone barely interested in the machining subjecf. You get your views by “real” machinists that are interested to see new things.
I'm a mechanical engineer and just started teaching myself machining with a CNC and a lathe at work. I left the wrench in the chuck a few weeks ago and started the lathe up. Luckily I wasn't in line with it and it hit the concrete floor near me. Scared the absolute shit out of me. Also crashed the CNC on 150% rapid with a 3'face mill into the hardened jaws, destroyed the spindle...made my heart sink into my stomach. Learning hard and fast all of the things not to do.
Magnificent, Peter. Outstanding work and again , always something to learn.. gun drills, order of opps, droopy Noga's, lots of stuff! Thank you for your effort.
Just a guess but if the chuck starts to turn while you are changing out parts then I'll bet having the t handle in the spindle would be the least of your worries. I Love your content, thank you for sharing!!
Least of? Probably. But it’s still not a problem you want to add to the list. Plus good habits like that apply to other machines that won’t have such interlocks. It’s all about defence in depth.
Thread milling holes that small, that deep in titanium is obviously possible but that doesn't mean I'm in a hurry to try it myself. Happy new year Peter!
Haha the wrench! When I was in Votech way back in 2000 a kid in class left the wrench in a chuck our teacher saw it. Threw it cross the room so hard it stuck in the wall then just said let this be a warning.
I love this content! Also, Gun drills are amazing, I keep expecting them to flail about on cycle start, break off, then yeet themselves across the shop at high velocity never to be seen again. Instead they ignore the safety rule about long / skinny unsupported material spinning at high speeds and as a final screw you to common sense start spewing high pressure coolant out the tip and promptly go and remove improbably precise amounts of material.
One thing I should have mentioned in this video. It is important on a small diameter gundrill. Not to turn on the high pressure coolant until the drill is in the pilot hole. Because the coolant hole/holes are off center in the tool this can deflect the end of the drill and cause it to miss the pilot hole. Thus bending the drill when the machine tries to move it into the hole. You will notice in the video I turn off this coolant when moving between holes.
I need to investigate gun drills. I've never had to dig holes that deep but it definitely looks worth knowing about. I used to think gun drills were used exclusively on special machines. Anyway, another very impressive video. Plus, I like that you don't feel the need to act all excited like 99% of TH-camrs. You're lowering my blood pressure, and that's a nice Christmas gift, thank you ! ;-)
Yes these dovetail jaws have worked great. But the large chuck is a manual 4-jaw. With enough jaw travel to open and clear the dovetail. But this can also be done on a Hydraulic 3-jaw but what you have to do in a sort of breach lock configuration, because of the small jaw travel. So you machine clearance notches in the dovetail shank to insert the jaws when open than rotate to engage the jaws on the dovetail, Than clamp the chuck.
about that chuck handle, where i learned how to use a lathe we had 'auto eject handles' that need pressure to keep them engaged, once you let them loose they would spring out and just fall to the ground, seems like a pretty useful but also annoying feature.
I like gundrills, but like you mentioned inconel and other high nickel alloys are a bear to drill, we had to machine a .375 dia 2' ft deep hole in Inco 718 roundbar, and it took 3 other drills to get it close to depth then used the gundrill the rest of the way at like .0004 per rev lol. We shattered a good bit of them during the R&D phase. I think we made 5 of them and then humbly asked the owner to never take that job again.
I have drilled 718 150 ksi heat treat. A .312 hole that deep. The thing is you can’t drill it in one shot. Just like I’m doing here. In the case of the inconel I split it into 3 drills. Each drill longer than the last. The shorter drills can drill a little longer than the longer drills. They have a little more rigidity. Also your not drilling with oil but water soluble coolant. In 718 I usually run around 120 surface speed. Depending on the heat treat. Maybe 150 at 130 ksi max. A the feed of .0005 per rev. But the bottom line here is you can’t drill a 24” deep hole in one shot with one drill in 718, with soluble coolant. On a detracted gun drilling machine they use oil as coolant.
Right, we did just that. Staged 3-4 separate hsco drills, each of increasing length. The only drill that made it through more than one part was the screw machine length drill. Thats how we had to drill all our inco parts even down to a .082 hole 1.7" deep, even at that size i had to use multiple drills to get it to depth and had to change the drills every other part. Yea we use water based coolant as well. We do also have two actual gun drilling (technidrill brand) machines that are oil cooled. But we do most of our parts in twin spindle/turret pinch turns (ZT 2500 dmg mori) and nakamura-tome tw-20's.
Most of our work is super alloy, inconel 625/718, hast-x, haynes 188, stelliite 6, 300 series stainless, and tungsten are some of them. The parts are mostly for gas turbines. Lots of E-beam weld coupons, nozzles, swozzle-packs, injectors and end covers.
Peter, two questions: 1. Do you add a dwell for 1/2 rpm while pecking carbide drill in between the pecks ? 2. What effect you think will this dwell, if done will have in work hardening steels ? Can peck drilling be done in work hardening steels ?
There is no dwell in the standard cycle and I'm not adding any. It is supposedly not recommended to peck carbide drills. But I do it. I have seen this happen though. If the rapid speed of the machine is very fast. And you peck clear to the top of the hole. It can pull the drill out so fast that shavings get in front of the drills tip. Than when it goes back into the hole it hits the shavings at rapid rate. This as you could imagine damages the drills tip on a carbide drill. But in general sometimes it is necessary to peck drill. You could benefit some by increasing the return clearance a little. Just so the drill has a few revolutions before hitting solid material after a peck. I usually set this at .005".
Lot of work, beautiful part. I wonder how long before a mechanic uses a hammer and punch to turn it using those pin spanner holes instead of the proper tool. 😂
I’ve noticed that you only using the haimer to set the z offset?! Any reason not to use it to set the xy offset? Instead using an indecator? Great video thank you for all the tips and videos angels. You do a great commentary and great explanation on the whole process. Good job 👏🏽
It could be done. But to set the offset in the center of the round part a dial indicator the way I'm doing in this video is faster and probably somewhat more accurate. Than probing the sides of the round with the Haimer indicator. Also the Indicator can more easily take into account the runout of the work piece. If the part was square in a vise say on a vertical milling machine. Than the Haimer would be a easier way.
What is more important is volume of coolant. As the drills get larger you need more volume. But if a drill is small you need pressure to push the coolant volume. I don’t know if that makes sense. So for small drills you do need the high pressure. But for larger ones not as much.
As much as there is. It is suppose to be 1500 psi. But in reality that depends on the hole size on the tool. On these small drills it probably gets to that.
I'm not sure I understand this? Are you referring to the hole bored on the lathe? If so these holes are small enough and far enough away. They don't affect the bore.
Have you Programmed with cad cam? I work on a traub turning machine and can't use cad cam for my programms. Sry for my bad englisch greetings from Germany🇩🇪✌️
The gun drill is a single flute tool. On the .156 drill the speed was 3500 rpm with a feed of 1.0 inches per minute. So like I said the process is slow. But it is reliable and holds better finish and size than a Twist drill.
I've had the same problem when milling different sized threads with the same pitch using the same threadmill. It's a weird problem and I have never figured out what the cause could be.
I think it has to do with the radius in the root. Using a single sharp tool won't account for that and won't automatically be worked in for both diameters
@Tomanista this is true but i think the point the cam software uses might be further from center on this thread vs that thread based on diameter not pitch
This thread, is a Acme thread. It is flat on its OD. So there is a clamping surface that won’t damage the thread. I would not do this with a regular V thread.
@@EdgePrecision I just built a woodworking bench and my end vise has that same threading and I never thought about even the concept of other benefits other than torque. I really appreciate how much you share.
the shorter the arm the better but what i do is measure at the stem of the drill bit then at the tips cause drill bits are never straight ! then of course result is always dead on
No I just set the tools my normal way. In fact to tell you the truth. I don’t know and have never used what you are referring to. Can you explain to me? Or maybe I do it but don’t recognize the name. I am completely self taught on the Mazatrol and I admit, I don’t use all its functions.
@@EdgePrecision to be honest i dont know neither 😅 i’ve been told that it is the ancestor of the toolteach for older integrex but i dint know much about it. we bought our first integrex recently so i was wondering. I am also self tough on the mazatrol
It doesn’t. There are safety interlocks when the doors are open. It won’t run the spindles. Also when it is in the milling mode. It won’t run the turning spindle. Just the milling spindle. So leaving the chuck key in the chuck the way I’m doing in this video isn’t dangerous. But I don’t want to give the impression that this is a normal or good thing to do on other equipment.
Yes there are two cameras originally built into this machine. They originally were hooked to a computer they referred to as the tower computer. If you look for images on a Mazak Integrex e650. You will see this tower in front of the machine. It serves no purpose for the operation of the machine. It also would not fit in my location with the jib crane as you see it. So when I installed the machine I eliminated it. Or didn’t install it. On that computer there were some files about the machine witch I installed on my lap top. But that is all. So after all that explanation, these cameras were hooked up to that computer that is no longer there so I don’t use them. The tower thing that Mazak put on these machines is no longer on the new models. It, I think was more a marketing thing and of no use to me.
I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. Are you referring to where the point of the drill is located in relation to it's diameter. Say in the case of the 1/4 the point is .250 X the diameter in from the outer edge? I will be covering this subject on the next video in this series on this part.
The feed rate on gundrills is very slow. Say in the range of .0007-.0004" per revolution usually less than .001" per rev. Because the drill is a single flute tool. So the drill I'm running in the beginning of the video is turning at 2500 Rpm and feeding at 1.0" per minute (.0004" per rev). It is as I said in the video a slow process. But it is reliable and I have always been able to get a broken gundrill out. Even on a very deep hole. and continue with a new tool.
What usually happens is the silver solder joint between the tip and the shank fails. The tip of a gundrill has a notch/flute plus coolant holes running thru it. So it’s not really very strong. Also when it breaks the joint between the tip and shank it usually splits/breaks the tip along those coolant holes. So you can use the old shank by grinding a angle on its end. Than sticking it back in the hole. Tapping it with a hammer and twisting it to break the remaining tip. The tip isn’t really tight in the hole like you would think. Than blow air down the hole. You can even use the old shank to help blow air down the hole. Keep the air blowing as you pull it in and out of the hole. The shattered tips pieces will come out. On a deep hole it helps if you have a bore scope/endo scope to look in the hole to make sure you got everything out before running the new drill.
The drills I’m using are made by Drill-Master Eldorado dmetool.com/ they have a gun drilling hand book if you want to pay $70.00 for it. To give you a idea. The first drill in this video is .203 in diameter. I’m running it at 2500 rpm and 1.0” per minute feed. In this material that’s working fine. As I said in the video it’s a slow process but it’s reliable once you get the right feed and speed. Also I can resharpen them easily. I have a video that explains how I do this in detail.
Because it wont deal with the runout issues, if they exist. But even more important that that. This machine only has X minus 10 mm of travel. So I can't even get the Haimer probe under the part to get the middle in the X axis direction.
I have a short video of a simple demonstration on my Instagram. (Peter L Stanton) That shows the problem with using mag bases with long arms. Indicating where you move or rotate the indicator and base.
Your videos are all instructive but this is EXACTLY the kind of video that I like to watch. Many thanks for taking the time and effort to make them. Best wishes for 2022.
I love the attention to detail in your videos. Explaining how gravity affects indicator reading is solid gold. Thank you.
Your level of confidence machining this part is beyond impressive. Quite amazing really. Thanks for sharing!
Incredible work Peter. I just did an Inconel job and had the same thread milling issue you mentioned - had to put a bunch of 1/4-20’s 5/8 deep. Ended up hand tapping all of them to chase them to size. A pain, but better than breaking a tap trying to just tap them outright.
Thanks for the incredible content. I’ve learned a lot from your videos.
Thank you for taking the time to film these, and for your client to allow you to share. Charles
The wrench in the chuck... One day my son wanted to do some lathe work. he wanted to turn some rounded corners on a shift knob he made for his truck. He grew up around that lathe, and is ( was ) a bit too comfortable on that day. He turned the ball end on one side of the T shifter handle, flipped the part and was getting ready to turn the other end. I looked up just in time to see him hit the power switch, and the chuck key prominently sitting in the lathe chuck. I yelled STOP but it was too late. The chuck key hit the wall, bounced off the ceiling and hit him square in the forehead. It made a t shaped bruise on his forehead and he apparently had a splitting headache. Funny, he's not made that mistake twice.
The only reason I pointed this out in the video. What I was doing is not a problem on this machine. But I don't want to leave the impression that this is the way you should do this, on another machine. It is not something you should get use to doing.
Finally, serious products for the oil industry! Congratulations, I think the problems are over now! Good job, as always!
Thread milling a 4-40 in titanium? Now that's cool!
You are a man of perfection. Even Titan doesn’t have raw beauty like your videos.
The only reason Titans are getting views is because of their exaggerated clickbait titles.
Frank, I could show you guys the same thing Titan does. Massive feeds and speeds for a ten second clip. But in reality on real jobs. No one would trust that and risk expensive material, tooling and equipment.
@@EdgePrecision Absolutely, that’s what I’m saying. They get views because they do “wow, that’s pretty cool!” things, and then put an insane clickbait title that attracts people.
Yours is the complete opposite. Your titles are neutral and describe the point of the video in a concrete way. Almost as if they were for you only to watch. But then in the video you’re making these super cool set-ups that almost no one has even did or seen before.
Titans get views from everyone barely interested in the machining subjecf.
You get your views by “real” machinists that are interested to see new things.
That is a good looking part! Those angled ports are no big deal on your machine but on a manual machine they would add a TON of work.
I'm a mechanical engineer and just started teaching myself machining with a CNC and a lathe at work. I left the wrench in the chuck a few weeks ago and started the lathe up. Luckily I wasn't in line with it and it hit the concrete floor near me. Scared the absolute shit out of me. Also crashed the CNC on 150% rapid with a 3'face mill into the hardened jaws, destroyed the spindle...made my heart sink into my stomach. Learning hard and fast all of the things not to do.
Want to go fast? Slow down.
@@ShainAndrews You sound like my track driving instructor! :D
Magnificent, Peter.
Outstanding work and again , always something to learn..
gun drills, order of opps, droopy Noga's, lots of stuff!
Thank you for your effort.
Still one of my favourite channels for content like this. You do excellent work Peter, on the part and video. :)
Just a guess but if the chuck starts to turn while you are changing out parts then I'll bet having the t handle in the spindle would be the least of your worries.
I Love your content, thank you for sharing!!
Least of? Probably. But it’s still not a problem you want to add to the list.
Plus good habits like that apply to other machines that won’t have such interlocks.
It’s all about defence in depth.
Seasons greetings Peter, I wish you and your family a happy peaceful and prosperous new year. Mal.
Thank you!
Nice part and nice video Peter! 👍 🙂👍
Another great video. Thanks for sharing. I think I could watch your videos all day.
Piece of art Peter. Thanks
Thread milling holes that small, that deep in titanium is obviously possible but that doesn't mean I'm in a hurry to try it myself. Happy new year Peter!
Haha the wrench! When I was in Votech way back in 2000 a kid in class left the wrench in a chuck our teacher saw it. Threw it cross the room so hard it stuck in the wall then just said let this be a warning.
Best CNC content on TH-cam!
That’s a really impressive piece of machining there.
Great work on the gun drilling and milling.
Well done indeed, that’s a very nice part.
I love this content! Also, Gun drills are amazing, I keep expecting them to flail about on cycle start, break off, then yeet themselves across the shop at high velocity never to be seen again. Instead they ignore the safety rule about long / skinny unsupported material spinning at high speeds and as a final screw you to common sense start spewing high pressure coolant out the tip and promptly go and remove improbably precise amounts of material.
One thing I should have mentioned in this video. It is important on a small diameter gundrill. Not to turn on the high pressure coolant until the drill is in the pilot hole. Because the coolant hole/holes are off center in the tool this can deflect the end of the drill and cause it to miss the pilot hole. Thus bending the drill when the machine tries to move it into the hole. You will notice in the video I turn off this coolant when moving between holes.
I need to investigate gun drills. I've never had to dig holes that deep but it definitely looks worth knowing about. I used to think gun drills were used exclusively on special machines. Anyway, another very impressive video. Plus, I like that you don't feel the need to act all excited like 99% of TH-camrs. You're lowering my blood pressure, and that's a nice Christmas gift, thank you ! ;-)
Yep don’t freak out when the spindle goes to turn off and that long gun drill is just boinging about lol
Unbelievable.....I'm impressed with that gun drilling.
What a great video! I never even thought you couldn't go negative in x. Makes sense. Just never thought of it. God Bless.
Very good video, and so much knowlege. Happy New year to you and your family, and healthy.
Thanks for another great video. I like the dovetail jaws, you won't worry about that small chuck coming loose! Thanks for all the tips and advice.
Yes these dovetail jaws have worked great. But the large chuck is a manual 4-jaw. With enough jaw travel to open and clear the dovetail. But this can also be done on a Hydraulic 3-jaw but what you have to do in a sort of breach lock configuration, because of the small jaw travel. So you machine clearance notches in the dovetail shank to insert the jaws when open than rotate to engage the jaws on the dovetail, Than clamp the chuck.
@@EdgePrecision Thanks, another great tip! Have a good weekend !
Amazed as always. Thanks for the video.
Great job as always! I always look forward to your new videos, thank you
Great video, great set-up, thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you Sir. A happy and healthy new year to you and yours.
about that chuck handle, where i learned how to use a lathe we had 'auto eject handles' that need pressure to keep them engaged, once you let them loose they would spring out and just fall to the ground, seems like a pretty useful but also annoying feature.
Very cool, and nice part.
Fantastic work and thought process!👍🏻
Very nice looking part
In my shop it's a case of beer everytime someone leaves the chuck key in the chuck lol
Total artistry!
Great video. Happy New Year to you and yours, with the best wishes for 2022.
Amazing machine and operator !
Thanks for your videos
That engraving sure looks pretty, though!
Incredible work, as always. Please don’t apologise for coolant obstructing the view, I’d much rather your part turned out right than the video.
We don't need any accidents my friends. Take care and happy machining
Nice work
I'd like to see how accurate the exit side 8 hole pattern is compared to the entrance side, to see how much the gun drills wander.
I will measure it and post it next video or maybe to Instagram.
@@EdgePrecision Thanks much.
@@EdgePrecision what is your instagram account called?
@@jacobsonconstruction Peter L Stanton
@@EdgePrecision thx! found it
Great content...Thank you🙏
Did you make the soft jaws for the chuck?. That in itself shows how a true toolmaker works. Excellent work.
I bought the blanks and turned them.
I like gundrills, but like you mentioned inconel and other high nickel alloys are a bear to drill, we had to machine a .375 dia 2' ft deep hole in Inco 718 roundbar, and it took 3 other drills to get it close to depth then used the gundrill the rest of the way at like .0004 per rev lol. We shattered a good bit of them during the R&D phase. I think we made 5 of them and then humbly asked the owner to never take that job again.
I have drilled 718 150 ksi heat treat. A .312 hole that deep. The thing is you can’t drill it in one shot. Just like I’m doing here. In the case of the inconel I split it into 3 drills. Each drill longer than the last. The shorter drills can drill a little longer than the longer drills. They have a little more rigidity. Also your not drilling with oil but water soluble coolant. In 718 I usually run around 120 surface speed. Depending on the heat treat. Maybe 150 at 130 ksi max. A the feed of .0005 per rev. But the bottom line here is you can’t drill a 24” deep hole in one shot with one drill in 718, with soluble coolant. On a detracted gun drilling machine they use oil as coolant.
Right, we did just that. Staged 3-4 separate hsco drills, each of increasing length. The only drill that made it through more than one part was the screw machine length drill. Thats how we had to drill all our inco parts even down to a .082 hole 1.7" deep, even at that size i had to use multiple drills to get it to depth and had to change the drills every other part. Yea we use water based coolant as well. We do also have two actual gun drilling (technidrill brand) machines that are oil cooled. But we do most of our parts in twin spindle/turret pinch turns (ZT 2500 dmg mori) and nakamura-tome tw-20's.
Most of our work is super alloy, inconel 625/718, hast-x, haynes 188, stelliite 6, 300 series stainless, and tungsten are some of them. The parts are mostly for gas turbines. Lots of E-beam weld coupons, nozzles, swozzle-packs, injectors and end covers.
Peter, two questions:
1. Do you add a dwell for 1/2 rpm while pecking carbide drill in between the pecks ?
2. What effect you think will this dwell, if done will have in work hardening steels ? Can peck drilling be done in work hardening steels ?
There is no dwell in the standard cycle and I'm not adding any. It is supposedly not recommended to peck carbide drills. But I do it. I have seen this happen though. If the rapid speed of the machine is very fast. And you peck clear to the top of the hole. It can pull the drill out so fast that shavings get in front of the drills tip. Than when it goes back into the hole it hits the shavings at rapid rate. This as you could imagine damages the drills tip on a carbide drill. But in general sometimes it is necessary to peck drill. You could benefit some by increasing the return clearance a little. Just so the drill has a few revolutions before hitting solid material after a peck. I usually set this at .005".
Nice job , cool ;)
Lot of work, beautiful part. I wonder how long before a mechanic uses a hammer and punch to turn it using those pin spanner holes instead of the proper tool. 😂
Happy late Merry Christmas 🎅 🎄
Great video and commentary. How do you deburr the end of the gun drill holes, where they've broken though into the ports(?) in the part?
Actually the deburr guys here will do it. They will probably use a carbide burr in a high speed hand grinder followed by a cratex polishing tool.
@@EdgePrecision Cool. I assumed it would be awkward to get to - but I forgot you had specialists on site. Thanks for the explanations in your videos.
very nice
I’ve noticed that you only using the haimer to set the z offset?! Any reason not to use it to set the xy offset? Instead using an indecator?
Great video thank you for all the tips and videos angels. You do a great commentary and great explanation on the whole process.
Good job 👏🏽
It could be done. But to set the offset in the center of the round part a dial indicator the way I'm doing in this video is faster and probably somewhat more accurate. Than probing the sides of the round with the Haimer indicator. Also the Indicator can more easily take into account the runout of the work piece. If the part was square in a vise say on a vertical milling machine. Than the Haimer would be a easier way.
Nice!
👍 I'm blown away as always by the mad skills. Is there a canned cycle for gun drilling opps, or is that hand coded?
In Esprit TNG cam software this is all automatic. There is a drilling strategy for it.
Yes I have the same Noga shorty arm and it has the bigger knob.
Sir I love you work
Excellent work. I love your job and the machine is super efficient. So you were machining Titanium? you didn't struggle at all. 👌.
Amazing, way above my knowledge, but great to watch. What’s the part for… a NASA shuttle? 😂👍🇬🇧
Looks great
Thanks for the video Peter! Nicely done.
Does your gun drill drills into soft jaws or theres space between part and jaws, holes seem to be very close.
There is a slight gap of about .015".
As allways, a perfect job :)
Are you able to run a gun drill using a lower pressure coolant inducer or even peck drilling with flood coolant?
What is more important is volume of coolant. As the drills get larger you need more volume. But if a drill is small you need pressure to push the coolant volume. I don’t know if that makes sense. So for small drills you do need the high pressure. But for larger ones not as much.
You talked a lot about surface finish Peter. What happens if it’s on size but the finish isn’t where it needs to be?
It’s out of tolerance.
THANK YOU. REGARDS R
i wonder who needs those kinds of parts......?
How much coolant pressure do you use for the gun drills?
As much as there is. It is suppose to be 1500 psi. But in reality that depends on the hole size on the tool. On these small drills it probably gets to that.
Hello Peter. when you drill at the beginning of the part, the central hole does not change in size
I'm not sure I understand this? Are you referring to the hole bored on the lathe? If so these holes are small enough and far enough away. They don't affect the bore.
Have you Programmed with cad cam? I work on a traub turning machine and can't use cad cam for my programms.
Sry for my bad englisch greetings from Germany🇩🇪✌️
Yes I use Esprit TNG software. If you are looking for a solution on your machine check them out. Here is a link. www.espritcam.com/about
Peter, what are you running for rpm and chip load on that small gun drill? Just curious...
The gun drill is a single flute tool. On the .156 drill the speed was 3500 rpm with a feed of 1.0 inches per minute. So like I said the process is slow. But it is reliable and holds better finish and size than a Twist drill.
@@EdgePrecision Thanks! The part looks like a piece of jewelry or artwork when you're done. Gorgeous.
Peter, do you have any advice on speeds/feeds for gun drills? Also do you usually gun drill most depths beyond jobber length?
Does resetting your machine centreline throughout all the tools in the machine?
No because I'm changing the fixture offset used in the program. All the tools will follow the new setting.
I've had the same problem when milling different sized threads with the same pitch using the same threadmill. It's a weird problem and I have never figured out what the cause could be.
I think it has to do with the radius in the root. Using a single sharp tool won't account for that and won't automatically be worked in for both diameters
@@travistucker7317 but they both use the same pitch and remove the same amount of material in each cut no mather the thread size
@Tomanista this is true but i think the point the cam software uses might be further from center on this thread vs that thread based on diameter not pitch
Sorry im a newbie, but how does the Chuck not damage the threading it’s clamped on?
This thread, is a Acme thread. It is flat on its OD. So there is a clamping surface that won’t damage the thread. I would not do this with a regular V thread.
@@EdgePrecision I just built a woodworking bench and my end vise has that same threading and I never thought about even the concept of other benefits other than torque. I really appreciate how much you share.
Have you ever messed up something like this? It has to happen to someone. Even just freak accidents or catastrophic tool breaks or whatever.
worked out good.
Why don't you use Interapid indicators on radial measures?
the shorter the arm the better but what i do is measure at the stem of the drill bit then at the tips cause drill bits are never straight !
then of course result is always dead on
What’s with the four jaw chuck holding a three Jaw chuck? Clearance?
Your custom cheater pipe looks just like mine 😂
Awesome video!! Are you using the TOOLFLASH on your mazak for the tool first set up?
No I just set the tools my normal way. In fact to tell you the truth. I don’t know and have never used what you are referring to. Can you explain to me? Or maybe I do it but don’t recognize the name. I am completely self taught on the Mazatrol and I admit, I don’t use all its functions.
@@EdgePrecision to be honest i dont know neither 😅 i’ve been told that it is the ancestor of the toolteach for older integrex but i dint know much about it. we bought our first integrex recently so i was wondering. I am also self tough on the mazatrol
👍
How does the machine know a wrench is in the chuck?
It doesn’t. There are safety interlocks when the doors are open. It won’t run the spindles. Also when it is in the milling mode. It won’t run the turning spindle. Just the milling spindle. So leaving the chuck key in the chuck the way I’m doing in this video isn’t dangerous. But I don’t want to give the impression that this is a normal or good thing to do on other equipment.
Great video with excellent explanations as always. This square box above the tailstock on inside of the housing of the Mazak, is that a camera?
Yes there are two cameras originally built into this machine. They originally were hooked to a computer they referred to as the tower computer. If you look for images on a Mazak Integrex e650. You will see this tower in front of the machine. It serves no purpose for the operation of the machine. It also would not fit in my location with the jib crane as you see it. So when I installed the machine I eliminated it. Or didn’t install it. On that computer there were some files about the machine witch I installed on my lap top. But that is all. So after all that explanation, these cameras were hooked up to that computer that is no longer there so I don’t use them. The tower thing that Mazak put on these machines is no longer on the new models. It, I think was more a marketing thing and of no use to me.
@@EdgePrecision thank you for the explanation. So the Mazak basically had the ’TH-cam-Ready-Feature‘ installed 😄
Hey Peter,
How do you think about 1/4 grinding to 1/3 grinding about your gundrills?
Again thx for showing your job.
I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. Are you referring to where the point of the drill is located in relation to it's diameter. Say in the case of the 1/4 the point is .250 X the diameter in from the outer edge? I will be covering this subject on the next video in this series on this part.
Just a reminder to all you machinist's and the new guys, ALWAYS TAKE THE THE CHUCK KEY OUT OF THE CHUCK.
very nice :D
What was the total mill time???
What were your feedrates on your gun drills?
The feed rate on gundrills is very slow. Say in the range of .0007-.0004" per revolution usually less than .001" per rev. Because the drill is a single flute tool. So the drill I'm running in the beginning of the video is turning at 2500 Rpm and feeding at 1.0" per minute (.0004" per rev). It is as I said in the video a slow process. But it is reliable and I have always been able to get a broken gundrill out. Even on a very deep hole. and continue with a new tool.
Bruh it says Noga Right there LOL Silly Peet 😂
I know. But I have some that are branded differently. I thought it was one of the others.
@@EdgePrecision You caught yourself in the video but I couldn't stop laughing LOL
How do you go about getting a broken gun drill tip out? I would think they would be tight fitting in the hole.
What usually happens is the silver solder joint between the tip and the shank fails. The tip of a gundrill has a notch/flute plus coolant holes running thru it. So it’s not really very strong. Also when it breaks the joint between the tip and shank it usually splits/breaks the tip along those coolant holes. So you can use the old shank by grinding a angle on its end. Than sticking it back in the hole. Tapping it with a hammer and twisting it to break the remaining tip. The tip isn’t really tight in the hole like you would think. Than blow air down the hole. You can even use the old shank to help blow air down the hole. Keep the air blowing as you pull it in and out of the hole. The shattered tips pieces will come out. On a deep hole it helps if you have a bore scope/endo scope to look in the hole to make sure you got everything out before running the new drill.
Hiya Peter
Can I please have the cutting modes and the brand of the tool?
The drills I’m using are made by Drill-Master Eldorado dmetool.com/ they have a gun drilling hand book if you want to pay $70.00 for it. To give you a idea. The first drill in this video is .203 in diameter. I’m running it at 2500 rpm and 1.0” per minute feed. In this material that’s working fine. As I said in the video it’s a slow process but it’s reliable once you get the right feed and speed. Also I can resharpen them easily. I have a video that explains how I do this in detail.
Are you allowed to say what that piece is used for?
All I can tell you is it’s some kind of oilfield down hole instrument part. Other than that I don’t know myself.
only a machinest notices a chuck key left in a chuck😃
Why not use Hamier probe to take x and y zero ?
Because it wont deal with the runout issues, if they exist. But even more important that that. This machine only has X minus 10 mm of travel. So I can't even get the Haimer probe under the part to get the middle in the X axis direction.
I'm pretty sure ur more than .002 off center with that much weight holding that indicator, it's like using an indical
I have a short video of a simple demonstration on my Instagram. (Peter L Stanton) That shows the problem with using mag bases with long arms. Indicating where you move or rotate the indicator and base.