Satisfying repair Stuart. At work we had a young engineer with keen eyesight and a steady hand. We relied on him to do all the removal and replacement of surface mount components. Some specialised equipment also required.
I have an MG 100 and and MG 30, great amps. They don't get a lot of love because they aren't valve amps, but I've found them to be quite capable and it is possible to get a good tone out of them if you work the EQ a bit, but where they really shine is how well they take pedals. I've replaced several of those audio chips and I don't know what the original issues are, maybe Marshall uses cheap components, but when I replace them I also use a mica washer and I've never had one go bad again.
Yea mine did the same , it happened when I ran an aux out the headphones out on the amp to my mixer ( 3.5 to 6.25 ) soon as I plugged it in to the mixer , that hum happened, I only had it a week so I took it back the shop and they swapped it for a new one , could be a fault on the headphones out socket so ide be wary of that one , I mic it up when I record now
Surface mount components don't belong in a guitar amp of 30 watts & over in my opinion.. It' makes things very difficult unless you have all the right equipment, steady hands and 20/20 vision .. Well done for finding an old fashion component that was blown and just about replicable despite your shaking hand 😅.. We can all sleep peacefully knowing you've met your 'net zero' repair targets 🤣..
Thanks Pete. YEs it's modern gear I'm afraid. All they care about is saving money on production costs and they have close to zero interest in maintenance issues.
Hi Stuart, I have one of these and it has a peculiar problem. When you switch it on you can turn all the dials up and only at the very highest volume can you hear the softest sound from the signal coming from the guitar. If i then drop the amp from less than an inch from the ground or just gently rock it back and then bring it down onto the floor it'll kick in and work perfectly, everytime.(I discovered the 1st time accidently) Do you have any ideas what the issue could be?
Truely awful amps, the components are the cheapest possible & run extremely close to their rated values, cheapest, flimsyest pots I've ever encountered, and a sound I can't live with. I'm sure the accountants are proud of their achievement.
A short, yet satisfying repair. I appreciate your efforts to keep another modern amp-type object from the tip. It is in essence a disposable douche of an amp, however saving it is always preferable. Well done, Stuart. Cheers!
Hi I work from home. You can send it i you want but not until after 20th October. At the end of every video there's a splash screen with my email. You can contact me via that. Thanks
i've got the same amp model and i hade the same issue , i changed the tda as you did but now all the led don't lit up and when i plug in a cable it makes a hum and when i touch the other end of the cable the humming stops anyones has an idea what it could be ??
My mg30fx did the same thing 10:23 yesterday. I watched your video,then i ordered the appropriate parts. I thank you very much I just have one question. What is the name of the green stuff they put on the mounting screws which allows the maintain the ground and still locks the screw. Thanks for your help can't wait for your response
Thanks again sir I thank you so much. I searched and found that 2050 in fact it's New Old stock not made in China. Repair went well thanks to you Stuart. Rock and roll
I'm amazed we didnt hear your opinion of what a 'terrible design' the amp was 😂 It seems to be a standard part of your presentation! Glad you saved it. All of the boards are available from Marshall and they're not expensive at all. Bugger repairing all that surface mount nonsence, its quicker and cheaper to replace the front and DFX boards. The TDA2050 is a common failure on many amps, in fact i seem to remember you cutting one out of a bass amp because it only ran the tweeter some time ago 😊
@@stuartukguitarampguy5830 I bought my MG30DFX 9 years ago for £30 and it has never missed a beat. That's less than £4 per year of playing it, so I guess I can live with the lack of repairability at that price!
Hi Stuart, Thank you for this Video. I always struggle with solder wicks. First I thought that it was due to the lousy quality of the wicks, Now I think that my clumsiness is the cause ... Are you using a specific type or brand?
It helps to soak your solder wick in flux (can be rosin) and add some more of it onto the pins of the component being removed. If it's really stubborn, try adding some fresh solder on the pins.
Great job Stuart! Truly a disposable amp and you managed to repair it. Keep on sending us those interesting repairs.
Thanks again,
Mike
Thanks Mike
Satisfying repair Stuart. At work we had a young engineer with keen eyesight and a steady hand. We relied on him to do all the removal and replacement of surface mount components. Some specialised equipment also required.
Hi Dennis. Yes I COULD just about do it with the right gear, but I'm just not interested tbh!
I have an MG 100 and and MG 30, great amps. They don't get a lot of love because they aren't valve amps, but I've found them to be quite capable and it is possible to get a good tone out of them if you work the EQ a bit, but where they really shine is how well they take pedals. I've replaced several of those audio chips and I don't know what the original issues are, maybe Marshall uses cheap components, but when I replace them I also use a mica washer and I've never had one go bad again.
Ah that's a good idea. I wish I'd thought of that!
Yea mine did the same , it happened when I ran an aux out the headphones out on the amp to my mixer ( 3.5 to 6.25 ) soon as I plugged it in to the mixer , that hum happened, I only had it a week so I took it back the shop and they swapped it for a new one , could be a fault on the headphones out socket so ide be wary of that one , I mic it up when I record now
Surface mount components don't belong in a guitar amp of 30 watts & over in my opinion.. It' makes things very difficult unless you have all the right equipment, steady hands and 20/20 vision .. Well done for finding an old fashion component that was blown and just about replicable despite your shaking hand 😅.. We can all sleep peacefully knowing you've met your 'net zero' repair targets 🤣..
Thanks Pete. YEs it's modern gear I'm afraid. All they care about is saving money on production costs and they have close to zero interest in maintenance issues.
Nice fix, thank God that's all it was...Looks like a nightmare otherwise..! Ed..uk..😃
Yes unfixable really.
Hi Stuart, I have one of these and it has a peculiar problem. When you switch it on you can turn all the dials up and only at the very highest volume can you hear the softest sound from the signal coming from the guitar. If i then drop the amp from less than an inch from the ground or just gently rock it back and then bring it down onto the floor it'll kick in and work perfectly, everytime.(I discovered the 1st time accidently) Do you have any ideas what the issue could be?
Hi Brian That's an odd one. Best guess is loose connection or dry joint.
Truely awful amps, the components are the cheapest possible & run extremely close to their rated values, cheapest, flimsyest pots I've ever encountered, and a sound I can't live with. I'm sure the accountants are proud of their achievement.
It’s like a 200 dollar amp dude. lol mine is pretty bad ass. I sometimes play it in my room. They are good for what they are made for
A short, yet satisfying repair. I appreciate your efforts to keep another modern amp-type object from the tip. It is in essence a disposable douche of an amp, however saving it is always preferable. Well done, Stuart. Cheers!
Thanks Alex
Nice!! I have an amp with the same problem. Do you have a shop? Can i send you mine?
Hi I work from home. You can send it i you want but not until after 20th October. At the end of every video there's a splash screen with my email.
You can contact me via that. Thanks
poor speaker, thats dc in the output
i've got the same amp model and i hade the same issue , i changed the tda as you did but now all the led don't lit up and when i plug in a cable it makes a hum and when i touch the other end of the cable the humming stops anyones has an idea what it could be ??
I'm afraid I can;t help with that, Make sure you put the new TDA chip in correctly as it's not that easy.
My mg30fx did the same thing 10:23 yesterday. I watched your video,then i ordered the appropriate parts. I thank you very much I just have one question. What is the name of the green stuff they put on the mounting screws which allows the maintain the ground and still locks the screw. Thanks for your help can't wait for your response
Hi Robert I don't use it myself but the brand name I lnow is Loctite. Stuart
Thanks again sir I thank you so much. I searched and found that 2050 in fact it's New Old stock not made in China. Repair went well thanks to you Stuart. Rock and roll
@@robertterrell2447 Awesome, well done.
Excellent content as always Stuart! Keep up the great work 👍
Thanks Anthony
Well, that is astonishing. Great job of elimination!
Thanks Steve.
Good job Stu, thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'm amazed we didnt hear your opinion of what a 'terrible design' the amp was 😂
It seems to be a standard part of your presentation!
Glad you saved it.
All of the boards are available from Marshall and they're not expensive at all. Bugger repairing all that surface mount nonsence, its quicker and cheaper to replace the front and DFX boards. The TDA2050 is a common failure on many amps, in fact i seem to remember you cutting one out of a bass amp because it only ran the tweeter some time ago 😊
11:53 says it all. 🙂
Another great video Stuart 👍
Thanks Ken
lucky repair ;]]
Plus a tiny pinch of skill and a hint of 50 years experience... :)
Great little amps these for very little money.
Yes excelent value but of course you pay for it in lack of repairability.
@@stuartukguitarampguy5830 I bought my MG30DFX 9 years ago for £30 and it has never missed a beat. That's less than £4 per year of playing it, so I guess I can live with the lack of repairability at that price!
I have built an old school valve amp a JTM45 using turret board construction at least I can repair it and will not going to a land fill any time soon.
That's the way to go!
Hi Stuart, Thank you for this Video. I always struggle with solder wicks. First I thought that it was due to the lousy quality of the wicks, Now I think that my clumsiness is the cause ... Are you using a specific type or brand?
It helps to soak your solder wick in flux (can be rosin) and add some more of it onto the pins of the component being removed. If it's really stubborn, try adding some fresh solder on the pins.
Yes good tip from Adal below but you must also use a flux impregnated wick like Chemwick. Don't just use naked solder braid. Hopeless!
Top work.
Many thanks
Stuart. Makes the unfixabable, fixable!
Hmm.. I'm going to get a business card with that on!
Nice job, always appreciate your content.
Thanks John
Marvellous Stuart 🎉
Thanks!
Good show!
DOn't you mean JOLLY good show, what??
@@stuartukguitarampguy5830
Jolly good, jolly good!