Wonderful! Now I don't have to call a handyman for something I can do myself...a 75 year old woman living by myself. Thanks so much Around The Home. Elizabeth
Thanks for this video. Really simplified the solution to an annoying problem. Watched the video, had dinner, went to Home Depot to get the silicone grease, searched for and purchased some unrelated stuff, and fixed the faucet swivel - all of that - in about 90 minutes.
Oh my God, you are my hero. I was thinking about going to Lowe’s or Home Depot and getting a new faucet. I’ve been dealing with the tightness of the swivel of the faucet for about a year. I disconnected the waterlines, pulled the faucet up, couldn’t figure out how to loosen It up. and so I was just about to give up and I thought I might check TH-cam to see if anyone else has had a similar issue. And there you were. With the exact same problem thank you for figuring that out. I appreciate your help, a lot. I wish I would’ve checked your video out before I disconnected the waterlines and the faucet. I could’ve easily saved an hour. It was so easy to come through the top to fix everything. Thanks again.
I’m glad I found this video. I didn’t have any grease so I used some wood block conditioner that’s basically beeswax and mineral oil. Moves freely now!
@@jessedecker1432 Petroleum based oils/greases deteriorate the silicone o-rings used in plumbing. However, some of the plumbing o-rings are neoprene and will not degrade. Just to be on the safe side, I would recommend using plumbers grease as it is silicone based.
Looked so easy to do. I turned off the shut off valves and cold water started to drip. Proceeded to do the rest but the body would not lift off. Shut off the house supply and called Steve's plumbing. He came and replaced the 2 valves and the faucet in 1 hour for.............$2,000!! What a rip!!
I am scared of home plumbing jobs. A leaky faucet can end up as a major flood……however, THANK YOU for this great video. I followed your directions to the letter, and even bought the same grease from Amazon. Everything went back together just like new. My faucet is as free as could be. Before repair it was so tight it even moved the base plate. Mine has only one hold down nut which needs tightened up a bit. Thanks very much for the instruction.
Glad I saw your comment here! I couldn't get mine to budge and was thinking that maybe it was just made differently. After seeing your comment, I took a flat head screwdriver and kept working at the base until I got it to pop off. After that it was smooth sailing. Fantastic video and comments section!
@@AroundTheHome1 Yep, I finished that this morning after going to Lowes to get the silicon. The faucet moves around very easily now. I taped up the correct size allen wrench into the silicon package so I won't have to hunt for it next year. 😅
Same issue with this style faucet. Plan to replace it soon in warranty but need to get the existing one to turn while waiting for the new one... great video and thanks
Thank you for showing me how to remove the swivel neck. I'm on my second Glacier Bay faucet. The first unit was replaced under warranty after 2 yrs. I'm notice that the swivel is again becoming more difficult to turn 2 yrs later. This design is not very good. I took apart the first unit and found lots of corrosion inside the upper o-ring area and black debris on the lower o-ring like you did. Why do you need o-rings anyway? When I need to, I think I'll remove those o-rings or buy a different brand/ style faucet. This is the problem. When using the pull out sprayer, water gets on the hose. This water runs down inside of the swivel housing and sits above the lower o-ring. This eventual causes the housing to corrode and the o-ring to bind up. Today I took both o rings out so any water that gets inside can weep out the bottom.
This one was helpful. I will try to lubricate the rings on my leaking faucet, as well as replace spring/seal assemblies. I too have one with the vegetable sprayer at the end, and it creates real problems with trying to take that bottom faucet neck off. The sprayer hose does not retract back through the body, therefore you must dis-assemble the entire sprayer hose at the water source. Not fun or quick to do.
Funny. When you said "butter knife" I immediately thought of my husband and in my head I yelled "IT'S NOT A BUTTER KNIFE! It's a TABLE knife. The butter knife is small with a non-serrated edge on both sides!" - LOL.
There are LOTS of videos about improving the ease of swiveling the faucet neck by addressing calcium buildup and/or lubrication. But I find nothing anywhere about the problem I am having: All parts are clean and have been liberally lubricated with plumber's grease. The neck moves smoothly after the lubrication has just been done. BUT, by the next morning or sooner, the neck has become stiff again. Are one or both of the gaskets inside the neck swelling? It certainly seems so. Do you have suggestions for identifying the exact part replacements and how to install?
I've re greased mine, but it gets relatively stiff within a few days again. Any insight? No water leak, the o-rings look fine. Its not that it doesn't move, or overly stiff like yours, but it is never free moving and does not retain its easy moving glide like freshly applied silicone grease for more than a few days.
Thanks for video. Had to pry gasket off with small screw driver. Then the rest was simple like you said. Was dirty on bottom. Works like new. That you Buddy.
Some get almost glued on there. If the "O" rings rot enough, they will basically glue themselves in place and it takes a lot of force to remove. If they are that bad, then just grease will not work. You would need to replace the "O" rings as well as greasing it up. Or you might consider installing a new faucet.
@mollydog444 that depends on a couple of things. This fix lasted a year for me, but that was not because the grease wore out. It is because our water is crazy hard down here. So, water that gets splashed on the faucet over and over leaves mineral deposits in the joints. Since this faucet was close to 10 years old I am fighting a lot of that, but the new grease made a huge difference getting the "O" rings lubricated again. Now, if you live in an area where your water is not super hard or / and you have a water softener then the new grease should keep the "O" rings lubricated for many years.
I'm trying to figure out why you even bothered to turn off the water. You never disturbed nor removed the cartridge retaining nut (mentioned at 3:16) so you never opened the pressurized supply lines. About the only thing that might happen is while removing the handle... or bumping it later... you might turn on the water a bit... but you can just shut it right back off with your fingers -- and any bit of water that comes out in so doing just drips out of the end of the faucet and on into the sink... ...I suppose the retaining nut could be cracked or something and fail while you are messing around here... blowing the cartridge out followed by a fountain of water... but in that sort of failure, it could just happen anytime as you turn on or off the water and aren't even working on this...
I used WD 40 silicone lube. Didn't take anything apart. Worked ok but still a little stiff. Why in the hell do they put that GD clear coat on everything. Ends up looking like crap in a couple years. Anybody know how to remove it?
The WD40 will swell the o-rings (not good). My Kohler was all corroded up and I couldn’t wrangle the neck off and I tried the WD40 (it didn’t help). After finally getting it off I soaked it overnight in vinegar which cleaned up the corrosion buildup. Use a silicon lube on the o-rings and you will be fine!
I'm not going to be much help without more info. You can go to my website and go to the contact page. After you submit one, we will be able to send pics so that I can see what you have there. www.aroundthehome.org
@MaryTidwell-sc600 In case you weren't aware (noone can possibly know what they don't know), on most TH-cam videos (including this one) you can add both closed captions (where what is said is displayed on your screen) AND you can also change the speed, making it faster or slower by certain increments. Either setting can be accessed by clicking on the gear icon in the upper right of the screen. 😊 I did have to re-wind a couple times to make out the 'sometimes the Allen wrench button is in the front' comment as the volume had dropped off as he was probably speaking in a direction that was farther from the mic than previous comments. (I say 'probably' because I don't feel like re-watching the video just to find out as I have a faucet to finish fixing for a friend.) 😉
These designer kitchen faucets are junk. My Price Pfister has the stuck problem and the pull out hose thingy came out completely and water gushed out. Don’t buy these fat faucets unless you want to keep paying to fix them.
No offence but Price Pfister is a lower end retail brand. I try to stick with Delta or Moen on my faucets. And both brands have a standard residential retail model found at all the big box stores, but they also have a higher end line that you can find at your local plumbing supply.
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Wonderful! Now I don't have to call a handyman for something I can do myself...a 75 year old woman living by myself. Thanks so much Around The Home. Elizabeth
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Thanks for this video. Really simplified the solution to an annoying problem. Watched the video, had dinner, went to Home Depot to get the silicone grease, searched for and purchased some unrelated stuff, and fixed the faucet swivel - all of that - in about 90 minutes.
Excellent!
Oh my God, you are my hero. I was thinking about going to Lowe’s or Home Depot and getting a new faucet. I’ve been dealing with the tightness of the swivel of the faucet for about a year.
I disconnected the waterlines, pulled the faucet up, couldn’t figure out how to loosen It up. and so I was just about to give up and I thought I might check TH-cam to see if anyone else has had a similar issue.
And there you were.
With the exact same problem thank you for figuring that out. I appreciate your help, a lot.
I wish I would’ve checked your video out before I disconnected the waterlines and the faucet.
I could’ve easily saved an hour. It was so easy to come through the top to fix everything. Thanks again.
To avoid potential damage to the cap (2:50), try using a jar opener pad either by hand or under the pliers.
Good tip.
I’m glad I found this video. I didn’t have any grease so I used some wood block conditioner that’s basically beeswax and mineral oil. Moves freely now!
@@jessedecker1432 Petroleum based oils/greases deteriorate the silicone o-rings used in plumbing. However, some of the plumbing o-rings are neoprene and will not degrade. Just to be on the safe side, I would recommend using plumbers grease as it is silicone based.
This 75 year old female appreciated this. Worked perfectly. Thank you.😂
Glad it helped!
Thank you, I didn’t realize the neck cover came off. Took it off, cleaned it and greased like you suggested. Works literally like new.
That's awesome!
Looked so easy to do. I turned off the shut off valves and cold water started to drip. Proceeded to do the rest but the body would not lift off. Shut off the house supply and called Steve's plumbing. He came and replaced the 2 valves and the faucet in 1 hour for.............$2,000!!
What a rip!!
I am scared of home plumbing jobs. A leaky faucet can end up as a major flood……however, THANK YOU for this great video. I followed your directions to the letter, and even bought the same grease from Amazon. Everything went back together just like new. My faucet is as free as could be. Before repair it was so tight it even moved the base plate. Mine has only one hold down nut which needs tightened up a bit. Thanks very much for the instruction.
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Thank you so much....I'm a 72 year old female and I was able to repair my faucet all by myself...it only cost me 80cents for a new O ring.....
Glad I could help
Thank you! My husband watched your video and then was able to fix our faucet. I can move it around easily now.
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
I had to pry off the faucet with a wedge scraper because so much grime was built up at the base. Works like new again. Thank you!
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Glad I saw your comment here! I couldn't get mine to budge and was thinking that maybe it was just made differently. After seeing your comment, I took a flat head screwdriver and kept working at the base until I got it to pop off. After that it was smooth sailing. Fantastic video and comments section!
Thanks for taking the time. I might have thought I had to remove the whole faucet to work on it.
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
@@AroundTheHome1 Yep, I finished that this morning after going to Lowes to get the silicon. The faucet moves around very easily now. I taped up the correct size allen wrench into the silicon package so I won't have to hunt for it next year. 😅
Same issue with this style faucet. Plan to replace it soon in warranty but need to get the existing one to turn while waiting for the new one... great video and thanks
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Thank you for showing me how to remove the swivel neck. I'm on my second Glacier Bay faucet. The first unit was replaced under warranty after 2 yrs. I'm notice that the swivel is again becoming more difficult to turn 2 yrs later. This design is not very good. I took apart the first unit and found lots of corrosion inside the upper o-ring area and black debris on the lower o-ring like you did. Why do you need o-rings anyway? When I need to, I think I'll remove those o-rings or buy a different brand/ style faucet.
This is the problem. When using the pull out sprayer, water gets on the hose. This water runs down inside of the swivel housing and sits above the lower o-ring. This eventual causes the housing to corrode and the o-ring to bind up. Today I took both o rings out so any water that gets inside can weep out the bottom.
This one was helpful. I will try to lubricate the rings on my leaking faucet, as well as replace spring/seal assemblies. I too have one with the vegetable sprayer at the end, and it creates real problems with trying to take that bottom faucet neck off. The sprayer hose does not retract back through the body, therefore you must dis-assemble the entire sprayer hose at the water source. Not fun or quick to do.
Good luck
I tried a jar opener but to no avail. I wrapped it in masking tape to avoid scratches and used a wrench. No scratches and it worked.
That's a great idea!
TIP: cover the "cap" or collar, or any chrome part, with a cloth before you use channel locks to unscrew it. It'll save it from scratches.
Sweet. I have this exact issue on my sink after 18 months on a new home. We are in an area of very hard water. We have a softener now.
Oh wow!
All fixed. My lower o-ring was worn out and oversized, I think it was getting jammed up so I just removed it, greased it up and working great now.
Good to hear!
Funny. When you said "butter knife" I immediately thought of my husband and in my head I yelled "IT'S NOT A BUTTER KNIFE! It's a TABLE knife. The butter knife is small with a non-serrated edge on both sides!" - LOL.
Funny, I consider anything that isn't sharp a butter knife.
There are LOTS of videos about improving the ease of swiveling the faucet neck by addressing calcium buildup and/or lubrication. But I find nothing anywhere about the problem I am having: All parts are clean and have been liberally lubricated with plumber's grease. The neck moves smoothly after the lubrication has just been done. BUT, by the next morning or sooner, the neck has become stiff again. Are one or both of the gaskets inside the neck swelling? It certainly seems so. Do you have suggestions for identifying the exact part replacements and how to install?
Well that is perplexing. What kind of faucet do you have?
Thanks for your helpful video. So happy to have fixed this issue with your help.
Glad it helped!
I have old shutoffs I’d rather not touch. Do I have to turn the water off to do this?
Yes, have the water turned off. If your stops for the faucet don't work, then shut off the whole house.
I've re greased mine, but it gets relatively stiff within a few days again. Any insight? No water leak, the o-rings look fine. Its not that it doesn't move, or overly stiff like yours, but it is never free moving and does not retain its easy moving glide like freshly applied silicone grease for more than a few days.
Do you have really hard water?
@@AroundTheHome1 Thanks for replying, but no. Going to check the inside is smooth.
What if it is stiff and leaking at the bottom also?
This was really helpful, thank you! Fixed our issue with your guidance.
Glad it helped!
His advice helped he fix my faucet, great advice!
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Thanks for video. Had to pry gasket off with small screw driver. Then the rest was simple like you said. Was dirty on bottom. Works like new. That you Buddy.
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Just what I was looking for to confirm my thoughts. Thank you for your video.
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
what to do when you can't lift the faucet off the base? The part that should swivel is stuck to the base. How do you loosen it? Please and Thanks
Some get almost glued on there. If the "O" rings rot enough, they will basically glue themselves in place and it takes a lot of force to remove. If they are that bad, then just grease will not work. You would need to replace the "O" rings as well as greasing it up. Or you might consider installing a new faucet.
Worked like a charm! Thanks for the video!
You are very welcome.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Just what I needed, Thank you for your help.
You're welcome! Check out our website for so much more. www.aroundthehome.org/
Thank you, this was super helpful, thanks for posting
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the video.
You're welcome
Thanks. I liked and subscribed.
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org And thanks for subscribing.
How long is the greasing likely to last before it has to be done again?
@mollydog444 that depends on a couple of things. This fix lasted a year for me, but that was not because the grease wore out. It is because our water is crazy hard down here. So, water that gets splashed on the faucet over and over leaves mineral deposits in the joints. Since this faucet was close to 10 years old I am fighting a lot of that, but the new grease made a huge difference getting the "O" rings lubricated again. Now, if you live in an area where your water is not super hard or / and you have a water softener then the new grease should keep the "O" rings lubricated for many years.
I'm trying to figure out why you even bothered to turn off the water. You never disturbed nor removed the cartridge retaining nut (mentioned at 3:16) so you never opened the pressurized supply lines. About the only thing that might happen is while removing the handle... or bumping it later... you might turn on the water a bit... but you can just shut it right back off with your fingers -- and any bit of water that comes out in so doing just drips out of the end of the faucet and on into the sink...
...I suppose the retaining nut could be cracked or something and fail while you are messing around here... blowing the cartridge out followed by a fountain of water... but in that sort of failure, it could just happen anytime as you turn on or off the water and aren't even working on this...
It is a just in case. Especially in case a viewer loosens the wrong part, or is working on a different faucet.
I used WD 40 silicone lube. Didn't take anything apart. Worked ok but still a little stiff.
Why in the hell do they put that GD clear coat on everything. Ends up looking like crap in a couple years. Anybody know how to remove it?
I tried to add some lube externally first as well. Helps some.
The WD40 will swell the o-rings (not good). My Kohler was all corroded up and I couldn’t wrangle the neck off and I tried the WD40 (it didn’t help). After finally getting it off I soaked it overnight in vinegar which cleaned up the corrosion buildup. Use a silicon lube on the o-rings and you will be fine!
Thank you for your help your videos are very useful
So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
A big help. Thank you!
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Thank You for your video, Awesome!
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Mine doesn’t have a nut to unscrew on the top???
What does it have?
@@AroundTheHome1 a coller that turns it’s not a nut with threads?
I'm not going to be much help without more info. You can go to my website and go to the contact page. After you submit one, we will be able to send pics so that I can see what you have there. www.aroundthehome.org
My particular model is a sealed unit, Koehler is sending us a new faucet. (No cap to unscrew)!!
Well that sucks about it not having a screw, but good that they are sending you a replacement unit.
I usually apply ice and give mine some ibuprofen.
Actually by following your cleaning process it isn't even necessary to turn off the water valves.
Better safe then sorry, but yep.
His voice would be perfect for an Elon Musk deep fake video.
Hey thanks.
This might have been helpful if the man had spoken more slowly and distinctly. I could hardly understand a word he said.
@MaryTidwell-sc600
In case you weren't aware (noone can possibly know what they don't know), on most TH-cam videos (including this one) you can add both closed captions (where what is said is displayed on your screen) AND you can also change the speed, making it faster or slower by certain increments.
Either setting can be accessed by clicking on the gear icon in the upper right of the screen. 😊
I did have to re-wind a couple times to make out the 'sometimes the Allen wrench button is in the front' comment as the volume had dropped off as he was probably speaking in a direction that was farther from the mic than previous comments. (I say 'probably' because I don't feel like re-watching the video just to find out as I have a faucet to finish fixing for a friend.) 😉
These designer kitchen faucets are junk. My Price Pfister has the stuck problem and the pull out hose thingy came out completely and water gushed out. Don’t buy these fat faucets unless you want to keep paying to fix them.
No offence but Price Pfister is a lower end retail brand. I try to stick with Delta or Moen on my faucets. And both brands have a standard residential retail model found at all the big box stores, but they also have a higher end line that you can find at your local plumbing supply.
"Lefty-loosey" amateur. COUNTER-CLOCKWISE
Removing the calcium BEFORE adding grease would be better. Grease will hold that gritty junk!