Thanks Chester for a great review. One thing I think would bother me is the fact the brass lever on the lever cap body is not central, yes only a cosmetic point but my OCD would play havoc haha.
Interesting and informative review. You get what you pay for. Glad to hear it's serviceable. How often in real life do you use a No. 1? Does it have any advantage over a block plane? It seems you hold it similar to a block plane.🙂
Thanks Chet for the great review. I am surprised that it could plane the bigger piece of wood. Do we know how many companies made official No. 1 hand planes? I’m sure it is a much smaller number than bigger planes. I do have a Bench Dog shoulder plane which has a nick on one of the edges so in my book it failed in Fit and Finish. Thanks for taking the time to make your videos and sharing them.
For the money it would be just fine. A #1 is not a good shooting plane anyway. Yes you would expect to tune the iron in any plane. The course adjusting knob is good to my liking but the slop could be better
Thanks so much!! Loved seeing the comparison between all three especially seeing an in depth examination of an actual Stanley #1.
I've seen a few people threatening to buy one, but this is the first demonstration. Thanks for sharing. Great video.
Thank you, kindly.
Thanks Chester for a great review. One thing I think would bother me is the fact the brass lever on the lever cap body is not central, yes only a cosmetic point but my OCD would play havoc haha.
Interesting and informative review. You get what you pay for. Glad to hear it's serviceable. How often in real life do you use a No. 1? Does it have any advantage over a block plane? It seems you hold it similar to a block plane.🙂
Thanks Chet for the great review. I am surprised that it could plane the bigger piece of wood. Do we know how many companies made official No. 1 hand planes? I’m sure it is a much smaller number than bigger planes. I do have a Bench Dog shoulder plane which has a nick on one of the edges so in my book it failed in Fit and Finish. Thanks for taking the time to make your videos and sharing them.
For the money it would be just fine. A #1 is not a good shooting plane anyway. Yes you would expect to tune the iron in any plane. The course adjusting knob is good to my liking but the slop could be better
I agree. Thanks for commenting.
Wood River tote and knob is Bubinga
Yes, indeed. I could not find a reference to that and it did look less red than Padauk. My error. Thanks for the correction. I was concerned.
@@ChetSpier Thank YOU, Sir! I loved the video.
@@devinteske I very much appreciate that.
The biggest "sin" would have to be the slop in the adjuster. That could get irritating rather quickly, and no simple fix
indeed, it is a lot. Thanks for commenting. i appreciate it.
Being called Chester spier and a carpenter ,, any advice on a old English project ie. “ chesterfield spier “
Size difference could be metric measure in manufacture
The no 1 plane never took off here in the uk even the no2 is a rare plane record planes made a no 2 record planes superior to stanley here in the uk
Not to argue, but can you tell me how the Record No 2 was superior?
Where’s your Lie-Nielsen No. 1?
I sold it a couple of years ago hoping to get a newer type but haven’t gotten a good price on one.
@@ChetSpier Which newer type would that be?
@@stephenclingerman4865 they modified the plane from the original to a Bedrock style frog seat and that improved the adjustability of them.
And while I’m here, do you have any #2s LN or not? And one more question. Have you looked or have any Clifton planes?
@@ChetSpierOh, Ok, I didn’t realize the “old” #1 was not bedrock. Looking at the LN site, the #1 will be coming.