Great tutorial and timely I must say. I just put up all the mdf around my layout room this weekend (used a brad nailer), I used original windex saturating the area I wanted to curve around the walls, just soaked both sides of the 'curve' and nailed it to the wall, worked great (can't recall the TH-camr that recommended that in one of their videos or would credit them). Then followed up with spackling at the seams, sanded, applied second coat last eve. Will finish sanding today. I am using adhesive backdrop sections, so I just need to be slow and methodical as pull back a few inches of backing at a time and use a paint roller to smooth it out.
I always look forward to these video tutorials. They are all so organized and well-done. Marklinofsweden has an engaging manner about his presentation and has become the 'go to' expert for me. Many thanks for your efforts and keep them coming!
Thats the back drop I used...I fixed it to insulation board with wall paper paste the blended extra clouds with a blue matt paint the spunged the clouds in with off white matt paint so the back drop extends into my roof apex.... great vid as always.....jim
I\'m not sure but ,if anyone else trying to find out building a model railroad layout try Stiklind Model Train Fixer ( search on google ) ? Ive heard some interesting things about it and my co-worker got excellent results with it.
I am in the process of doing a backdrop for my small layout and really loved your video, it has given me some great ideas on how I want to do my own. Great job Mark, keep the great videos coming.
Excellent tutorial just a few questions have come to mind. 1) the wood board wasn't visible for very long- what type that is is important as I know some boards like that do not like getting wet at all. 2) great points in the allowing for the scene paper to fully expand before mounting and the a losing for the drying shrinkage. But how many mm overlap did you allow? Too little is want we want to avoid. But too much and the scenery has a discontinuity. 3) any issues with applying the pasted paper scene on the curved board and also joining the curved board to the straight section? Wish that had been shown.
+Minok1217 Hi Minok! Excellent feedback and questions! (y) 1) This type of board has different names och sold under different brands depending on which market you're in. Make a screenshot from the video and bring to your local dealer and they will be able to help you to a suitable product. 2) I typically use 1.5mm overlap. 3) Yeah! I agree. I should have had a scene on this topic in the video. I'll add it to the German language version.. Anyway.. I glue the paper scene to the curve, leaving about 100mm sticking out beyond the end of the board. I then join the curved section with the one already in place on the wall. Once the curve has been mounted and joined I glue the 100mm to that paper scene.
How I wish I would have seen this before I tried myself. I have counted two failed attempts with my "Neuschwanstein"-backdrop. The current hanging is OK, but nothing close to this marvellous result.
I have an upright wall of about 70cm, then the angle of the roof starts, So in my case, I have to be smart. My plan is to construct a table of 360cm by 140cm which can be moved. The height of the upper level can not exceed 70 cm (I still have about 10cm clearance in the back for the trains). I can try try for an offset backdrop agains the roof but that means I need a custom made coz the Faller backdrops won't work.
I have an upright wall of about 70cm, then the angle of the roof starts, So in my case, I have to be smart. My plan is to construct a table of 360cm by 140cm which can be moved. The height of the upper level can not exceed 70 cm (I still have about 10cm clearance in the back for the trains). I can try try for an offset backdrop agains the roof but that means I need a custom made coz the Faller backdrops won't work.
very good. When I do mine I cut the sky off the backdrop and cut the mounting board a bit lower than the horizon. The board is then mounted a small distance off the back wall (which is painted blue). This allows lighting to be placed behind the mountains. See cabinlayout.mixmox.com/1/backdrop-lighting
Great tutorial and timely I must say. I just put up all the mdf around my layout room this weekend (used a brad nailer), I used original windex saturating the area I wanted to curve around the walls, just soaked both sides of the 'curve' and nailed it to the wall, worked great (can't recall the TH-camr that recommended that in one of their videos or would credit them). Then followed up with spackling at the seams, sanded, applied second coat last eve. Will finish sanding today. I am using adhesive backdrop sections, so I just need to be slow and methodical as pull back a few inches of backing at a time and use a paint roller to smooth it out.
I always look forward to these video tutorials. They are all so organized and well-done. Marklinofsweden has an engaging manner about his presentation and has become the 'go to' expert for me. Many thanks for your efforts and keep them coming!
Thanks, this will help when I receive my Faller backdrop that I have ordered. 15 feet to do
Thats the back drop I used...I fixed it to insulation board with wall paper paste the blended extra clouds with a blue matt paint the spunged the clouds in with off white matt paint so the back drop extends into my roof apex....
great vid as always.....jim
I\'m not sure but ,if anyone else trying to find out building a model railroad layout try Stiklind Model Train Fixer ( search on google ) ? Ive heard some interesting things about it and my co-worker got excellent results with it.
Great video. Well done. Now I know how the professionals do it .
I am in the process of doing a backdrop for my small layout and really loved your video, it has given me some great ideas on how I want to do my own. Great job Mark, keep the great videos coming.
Good job on removing the creases and wrinkles, that was always my biggest problem with backdrops
Well done again, great info keep the tutorials coming Mr Marklinofsweden!!!
Very informative and thanks for the work you put into making this video. Great work!
+Peter M Thank you Peter! 👍😊
I need to do a back drop for my layout. Great video.
Well focused, to the point, and succinct tutorial. Thanks for sharing - very useful.
Brilliant. Thank you.
Thanks!
Great tutorial. It's nice not to learn off the complete trial and error system.
Subscribed and thumbs up ,your videos are excellent .
Very helpful.
Excellent tutorial just a few questions have come to mind.
1) the wood board wasn't visible for very long- what type that is is important as I know some boards like that do not like getting wet at all.
2) great points in the allowing for the scene paper to fully expand before mounting and the a losing for the drying shrinkage. But how many mm overlap did you allow? Too little is want we want to avoid. But too much and the scenery has a discontinuity.
3) any issues with applying the pasted paper scene on the curved board and also joining the curved board to the straight section? Wish that had been shown.
+Minok1217 Hi Minok! Excellent feedback and questions! (y) 1) This type of board has different names och sold under different brands depending on which market you're in. Make a screenshot from the video and bring to your local dealer and they will be able to help you to a suitable product. 2) I typically use 1.5mm overlap. 3) Yeah! I agree. I should have had a scene on this topic in the video. I'll add it to the German language version.. Anyway.. I glue the paper scene to the curve, leaving about 100mm sticking out beyond the end of the board. I then join the curved section with the one already in place on the wall. Once the curve has been mounted and joined I glue the 100mm to that paper scene.
Great video thanks. 👍🏼
Thank you!
I wish I saw this two months ago before I tore my backdrop print trying to get the air bubbles out.
How I wish I would have seen this before I tried myself. I have counted two failed attempts with my "Neuschwanstein"-backdrop. The current hanging is OK, but nothing close to this marvellous result.
Great info!
I wish you would’ve shown how you attached it to the wall?
Very good!
+datalasse Thank you Lasse! 😊
Vary cool, thanks.
Good tutorial. But in my case, I have a roof with an angle, it wil be hard to do that.
Would it be possible to cut the backdrop to lower it, or would it be no use?
I have an upright wall of about 70cm, then the angle of the roof starts, So in my case, I have to be smart. My plan is to construct a table of 360cm by 140cm which can be moved. The height of the upper level can not exceed 70 cm (I still have about 10cm clearance in the back for the trains). I can try try for an offset backdrop agains the roof but that means I need a custom made coz the Faller backdrops won't work.
I have an upright wall of about 70cm, then the angle of the roof starts, So in my case, I have to be smart. My plan is to construct a table of 360cm by 140cm which can be moved. The height of the upper level can not exceed 70 cm (I still have about 10cm clearance in the back for the trains). I can try try for an offset backdrop agains the roof but that means I need a custom made coz the Faller backdrops won't work.
very good. When I do mine I cut the sky off the backdrop and cut the mounting board a bit lower than the horizon. The board is then mounted a small distance off the back wall (which is painted blue). This allows lighting to be placed behind the mountains. See cabinlayout.mixmox.com/1/backdrop-lighting
+Dale Schultz Good comment Dale! 👍 Yes, it sounds like a great idea.
👍 more images on mounting here: cabinlayout.mixmox.com/1/Backdrops
why do I like trains?
Good question! 👍😊 I’ve asked myself the same question many times!
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