Products that we use and recommend: ► Wheel Lock Removal Tool: amzn.to/4etsjjO ► Panel Removal Set: amzn.to/3YiMADu ► Assorted Fuses: amzn.to/4fx4s3F ► Tool Set: amzn.to/3p5MM6t ► Screwdriver Set: amzn.to/3XRB28Q ► Mobile 1 Oil: amzn.to/3xBc8B9 ► Oil Filter: amzn.to/3w0Ulme ► Torque Wrench: amzn.to/32qyRwg ► Liqui Moly Engine Flush: amzn.to/3IiDBID ► Voltmeter: amzn.to/4hB6Zvk ► OBD Scanner that we use most often: amzn.to/3I4MQfe ► Check out our Amazon Store for the tools and parts that we use: www.amazon.com/shop/worldmechanics
All thieves are gonna go to hell. So you need to repent. Besides, you gonna get killed or badly hurt. That's if you were serous about this or if someone actually gets any ideas
Thanks! My security socket broke and the dealer loaned me an extractor set they use. It wouldn't work on the rear two but, your method did work for me. 19mm on Chevy
Thanks for making this video, I had to remove the wheel locks off my daughters 2010 Beetle. Used this method with a 22mm 12 point socket. It didn't take out the Lug Bolt but it took off the spin ring. Then I used an 18mm 12 point socket to get the lug bolt off.
@@SuryaG-cy9ud not sure where you live but they sell 19mm reverse thread bolt extractors or in different sizes. the more you attempt to remove it the tighter it gets.
Thanks guys, saw your other video on this being the lock but teeth broken off on the socket. Bought a couple 12 point sockets (good thing too) and got all 4 off. Just say, for those who need to do this, don't bang it far on being it was very hard to bang the socket loose. Still, it works though I woke the neighbors.
I used a piece of 2X4 and hammered it and did not damage the socket. Or a thin piece of rubber to protect the socket. Good vid boys and good advice "don't steal"!! Cheers
I had similar alloys on my golf mk6, the locking nut was over tightened and worn, I used a 22m standard socket, I hit it on with a sledge hammer and then used a wheel wrench handle, with a bit of turning and pulling it cleanly broke off the out layer, this then gave me space to use a wheel nut removal tool
Wow!! Not gonna lie that help me soo dam much I didn't have a 12 point but I had a 13/16 and that did the trick! Thank you guys I was gonna go to a shop but you saved me cash! Thank you thank you thank you!!!
I use mig welder . Weld a good blob in the centre the heat penetration helps work it's way down the bolt. Then use an Irwin for use on rounded nuts. Easy 10mins all four nuts no messing cutting off spin rings. No use of hammers.
Just tried this… newer VW lock nuts have a protective outer ring to prevent this from working now. Older ones do not so I would check before slapping on a socket
This method will not work on the gen 2 VW/Audi locking lug bolts if the wheels were tightened past 80-90ft lbs. There is an outer ring that will just spin freely and not loosen the bolt. I'm actually surprised he got this one off. You can buy the entire set of keys off amazon, that's really the best way, otherwise you will have to dremel/chisel off the outer ring and then pound on a socket or easy out.
my son has a 2010 cc Volkswagen and we cant get it off his tire, he has a flat. I called Volkswagen company and they said he would have to bring it them in order for them to take off the tire. we don't have that kind of money to tow it to them. My husband tried the way you showed on your video. the video was done a few years ago. do you know were we can purchase a key? we did order one but it wasn't the correct key. thank you any kind of help.
Did the nut had like a spinning cover? Because i tried to do it with 12point socket but its only cover spins around the nut and no action…. 😢 please help me!!!
If the rims you're stealing are in a good enough spot to hammer on them for 5 minutes, you'd do better to steal the whole car and take the rims off elsewhere.
Hello..what side is right socket to remove the lock nut from jetta 2005 2.5??i ruined one bolt because somebody put that lock nut in a car a bought..i have no right socket so ..
on new OZ wheels, the wheel bolt bore diameter is so small that only slim type 17mm sockets can fit in , anything bigger and the socket wont even fit in the wheel bolt borehole.
just watched a tyre place do this, they buggered up my nut key so I got them to replace all my lock nuts with normal nuts. Mine had the rotating cuffs on as well. They put a screwdriver/pointy metal rod on the outer cuff and whacked with a hammer to split the cuff. They could then take the cuff off and proceed to hammer a 12 point socket on the nut and remove. Took them minutes to do.
@@paullines1185 did they damage your wheel at all while hammering? From this video, looks like the socket damages the wheel as it's smacking into place.
This method is a good idea... but it is not without its problems. My effort was to purchase a Kincrome 22mm deep socket. (AU$20.00). I followed the video instruction and tried to undo the lock bolt. However, that failed and all that happened was the socket just rotated on the lock bolt. At first, I thought it was spinning on a ring that was meant to prevent the theft of your wheels by anyone trying this method. As it turned out... it wasn't a spinning outer ring... but it was the socket spinning on the outer surface of the lock bolt. (My lock bolts do not have a floating outer ring.) In my case... the Audi anti-lock bolt was harder than the Kincrome socket. The anti-theft bolt actually sheared (cutaway) the 12 Point socket spline. That socket spline made no biting indentation in the lock bolt... WHAT-SO-EVER! So my experience is that the video method did not work. It was an AU$20.00 fail. That's was not too bad... but it got worse! What was the worst to come? OK... this is what was worse to come... My issue with the tire was a slow leak. It was losing 20 psi in ten days... but that varied with the sort of use. Slow short runs at low speed are very different to longer runs at highway speeds building up tire temperature... The second is just too dangerous to do in any circumstance. The last thing you need is for your tire to suddenly deflate at 100 km/hr. RIGHT??? Of course, that is worse! However... as I knew the issue and danger... I didn't drive over 60 km/hr. I particularly wanted the vehicle with me to cross-check the socket depth and the outside diameter so it would actually be a fit for purpose solution. I also want to see if I could use a 12 Point Impact Socket... rather than a standard Kincrome deep socket. (A better idea, one would think.) In driving to the tool retailer at 60 km/hr... everything went fine. That said... as I was turning across the traffic on a blind corner... wouldn't you know it... as I slowly crossed the lane... a vehicle came around the corner at speed. That vehicle was going to hit me if I didn't cross quickly. So... I hit the accelerator to get out of the way. All good... Yes/No??? It was good I reacted fast and got out of the way. It was bad because I hit the curb and gutter too hard. The tire pressure was down to 30 psi. And as it was a low profile 19" tire... Its sidewall deflected and compressed enough for the rim lip to bottom out and hit the concrete. So... my good rim was now damaged. It's not so bad as to be anything other than ugly. But we all know the feeling of doing that type of damage to our favourite rims! So that was the first unintentional cost. I will have it dressed and refinished to its original standard. (Cost: ~ about AU$100.00) Also... the idea about using an Impact Socket didn't work out. The Impact Socket outer diameter would not fit in the wheel bolt hole. All of this was before I purchased the 22mm socket. In truth... the cost of getting a one-use deep 22mm socket became AU$120.00!!! Maybe I should have purchased the OEMs part? I'll take about that in the second comment I'll post after this first post.
Oh... It got worse than that as well !!! Socket fixed tight... you are left with the problem of getting it off. Why not just belt the hell out of the socket until it comes off??? You are more likely to do damage to your rim... so don't do that! I tried to use a Dyna Bolt with a slip-sleeve. An 8mm fits perfectly in the hole at the base of the 1/2" square female. The hole is 11.3mm. ...But it doesn't work because the friction fit you've made with the hammering on of the socket is too much for the Dyna Bolt to pull off. The Dyna Bolt does not fail itself... but the tension needed will pull the expanded sleeve and socket off... well I just pulled it through the socket. It also pulled the socket off a little... but not before the sleeve is squeezed flat and is pulled right out. I moved on to plan B. The next thing I knew I needed was a much stronger method than with the Dyna Bolt solution. You can keep using more Dyna Bolts... but I decide to use a "Blind Hole Bearing Puller" with a "Slide Hammer". Now that method did work for me... but it took me 2 hours and the help of my wife to realise it's would take many more hours than the 2 hours we already up into it. The issue was energy losses with the slide hammer. Every joint in the draw hammer lost enough energy to have me realises I needed to use a hydraulic puller to ensure the joint energy losses were minimised and full effect was given to the slide hammer blows. But I didn't have what I needed in my Porta-Power kit and those items would have cost hundreds and hundreds of dollars more. The solution I came up with was to use my work vehicle to place tension on the slide hammer shaft and take out any rebound movements when I used the slide hammer. I used a 10m long 10mm Grade 800 Herc-Alloy chain. I gave myself 2 metres clearance. I secured the chain around the tow bar square to the Audi A4 rim. The other end of the loop of the chain was placed around the slide hammer drawbar, which had a "T" handle for tightening the mandrill into the socket 11.3mm hole The mandrill was a 10mm to 13mm expanding mandrill. That's the important size to remember for a 22mm socket. You must have it enter the hole in the smallest size... then expand it to full resistance. In my case that was 11.35mm. That was a slightly overtight fit. My wife took up the chair slack and lock on the Brakes, (in Static Tension). I used the slide hammer and it over a full millimetre was won. That millimetre was 3 times more than what I'd achieved with just using the slide hammer by itself. Taking out rebound energy losses made that much difference. The other thing I knew from the first blow... the moment it moved saw the full tension of the chain pull loss again. The next effort was the best solution. I asked my wife to take up the tension again. But... this time I asked her to feather the throttle as if she was holding the car at a traffic light when on a hill. With that Dynamic Tension... I just needed one tap and the rest of the 15mm of socket popped off effortlessly. So... I managed to remove the socket that did not grip or cut into the lock bolt. But I still have a slow leaking puncher that must be fixed. I also want to do a full try rotation. Yet... I still need a solution for removing the lock bolts on all 4 tires. The method in this video is not going to work for me. The better video to review is as follows. I hope the original guy will see my post as a supplement to his work-around and is an alternative that might be the solution for others like me that didn't get the result we needed from his suggestions. The link is... m.th-cam.com/video/53_xf90NaDU/w-d-xo.html OK... you might be asking why didn't just go to Audi Australia and bought a new Lock Bolt Key??? Good question! ...Well, the cost that Audi Australia's service centre asked for the replacement key was AU$120.00. I ended up buying 1.) a Kincrome 22mm deep socket for AU$20.00 plus 2.) a slid hammer and mandrill kit for AU$199.00... and I've also done AU$100.00 of superficial damage to my AU$500.00 Audi OEM rim. Am I mad I can hear you crying out at me!!! That's a fair cry. However... I prefer to do anything other than reward Audi and the price gouging there is in their AU$120.00 asking price for their lock bolt key. Here it is everyone. If we pay a "Price Gouging" amount... we are telling Audi or any other vehicle manufacturer... "That's OK... I'll let you do me over." The AliExpress cost is going to come in at approximately AU$35 to AU$45.00... landed at my door. All the tools I purchased in my work-around remain mine and have expanded my tool collection. No, lost value there. The only thing I can't undo is the damage to my rim on the curb and gutter. But that too is a running cost of owning any vehicle... and that could happen at any time. It was unfortunate to have happened while I was chasing up tools to fix my issue and I might have avoided that... it happened. I hope my experience helps someone save themself a little drama.
Didn’t work on my 2015 VW. I just ended up breaking off the outer shell of the security lug. Now I just ended up with a extra 22mm socket and a damaged wheel bearing. Find a socket that takes out bolts.
I lost my car wheels anti theft bolt for VW JETTA 2010. I don't know the code number for this . If you know the code number would you please tell me I need to buy it urgently because wheel need to replace.
This has a spinning sleeve so just hammering a socket won't open the nut only spin the sleeve. It skipped after you hammered it on and before turning the breaker bar
Most helpful video I could find on this type of locking bolt, everyone else only covers how to remove the star keys that insert, thanks for saving my butt!
Didn't work. Tried with the 22mm 12 pt socket. The outside of the locking nut stripped off and was stuck on the 12 pt socket. MAjor mess. Now i have to get the car towed.
This technique will not work on most cars. I have tapered impact sockets designed for this and even their use is limited to cheaper cars like VW and Ford.
Yeah... But... Mostly, each car manufacturer - depending on the parent company - has a different locking nut. Sometimes, each trim level of each engine has a different locking nut size. That is Gospel.
Products that we use and recommend:
► Wheel Lock Removal Tool: amzn.to/4etsjjO
► Panel Removal Set: amzn.to/3YiMADu
► Assorted Fuses: amzn.to/4fx4s3F
► Tool Set: amzn.to/3p5MM6t
► Screwdriver Set: amzn.to/3XRB28Q
► Mobile 1 Oil: amzn.to/3xBc8B9
► Oil Filter: amzn.to/3w0Ulme
► Torque Wrench: amzn.to/32qyRwg
► Liqui Moly Engine Flush: amzn.to/3IiDBID
► Voltmeter: amzn.to/4hB6Zvk
► OBD Scanner that we use most often: amzn.to/3I4MQfe
► Check out our Amazon Store for the tools and parts that we use: www.amazon.com/shop/worldmechanics
remind me never to let you work on my car
Sold 30 wheels already thanks man 100% success rate now no more avoiding the locked one's
😂😂😂
@@Thecrowmotorsports plot twist: he’s not joking
Any audi 29s for sale
I've been wanting to steal my neighbors rims for years!! Thanks man.
Car Audio Inc lmfao
😂😂😂😂😂
I just love this comment 😎
All thieves are gonna go to hell. So you need to repent. Besides, you gonna get killed or badly hurt. That's if you were serous about this or if someone actually gets any ideas
🤣🤣🤣
They call him lightnining, cause he never strikes the same place twice. 😂
That was a good one
😂
Thanks! My security socket broke and the dealer loaned me an extractor set they use. It wouldn't work on the rear two but, your method did work for me. 19mm on Chevy
Perfect solution. No damage on the rim. Fast and easy
Yeah, that rim had enough damage already...
If I could rate this 6 stars a would, saved me so much time
Works 100%. The lock ring was 22mm, then the bolt was 18mm. 12 point is a necessity.
22 mm and 11/16" for me
11/16 busted btw lol
Thanks for making this video, I had to remove the wheel locks off my daughters 2010 Beetle. Used this method with a 22mm 12 point socket. It didn't take out the Lug Bolt but it took off the spin ring. Then I used an 18mm 12 point socket to get the lug bolt off.
I just did that on my audi. With 22mm knocked of the spin ring and use 18mm to take off the lug nut. Thank gowd its out now
@@jokersweet wish I would have read these comments before I started. I didn't know the ring existed.
Now show me how you remove the bolt from nut.
Easy GG place socket in vice and tap lock nut through centre hole with screwdriver. Reasonable force required!
Or
Just buy 4 sockets and leave them on
This really works, used it on my 2012 Passat with a spinning ring, smashed 22mm socket on to take it off and then smashed 18mm socket on to remove nut
Take it off and remove are the same things.
@@GODh8sfag5 he means 22 mm socket to take off the spinning collar and 18 mm for the actual lug nut.
I removed the ring with 22mm socket, 18mm isn't fitting on to the bolt and 19mm is loose. What to do?
@@SuryaG-cy9ud not sure where you live but they sell 19mm reverse thread bolt extractors or in different sizes. the more you attempt to remove it the tighter it gets.
yeah the bolt is already loosen (you can see it on 2:24) ... try it when bolt is tight properly...
Thanks guys, saw your other video on this being the lock but teeth broken off on the socket. Bought a couple 12 point sockets (good thing too) and got all 4 off. Just say, for those who need to do this, don't bang it far on being it was very hard to bang the socket loose. Still, it works though I woke the neighbors.
I used a piece of 2X4 and hammered it and did not damage the socket. Or a thin piece of rubber to protect the socket. Good vid boys and good advice "don't steal"!! Cheers
This video helped me Alot!!!
I Thank you very much guys from bottom of my heart.
I had similar alloys on my golf mk6, the locking nut was over tightened and worn, I used a 22m standard socket, I hit it on with a sledge hammer and then used a wheel wrench handle, with a bit of turning and pulling it cleanly broke off the out layer, this then gave me space to use a wheel nut removal tool
You need to show first how to takeout the ring around the lock then take out the lock bolt
These are stock VW locks, there isnt any rings outside the bolt.
VW always hav rings on locking bolts 🙄
Thank youuuuuuu!!! My bmw has it and is why i'm in youtube haha. But yeah majority of them have rings that wont allow the socket to stick.
@@2004skylinegtrr34 BMW hav that ring recessed in so it's extremely hard to work with but it is removable ( just like anything)
Thank you, you deserved a sub, lost my key and you daved the day 👍
great, thank you very much for the tip. 3 screws on 3 wheels in 10 min.! Good Job!!😊
Wow!! Not gonna lie that help me soo dam much I didn't have a 12 point but I had a 13/16 and that did the trick! Thank you guys I was gonna go to a shop but you saved me cash! Thank you thank you thank you!!!
I use mig welder . Weld a good blob in the centre the heat penetration helps work it's way down the bolt. Then use an Irwin for use on rounded nuts. Easy 10mins all four nuts no messing cutting off spin rings. No use of hammers.
Thank you for helping a brotha out today mate
why do i feel as if he hit the rim more . so we put the socket on? then hit rims ? then hit lug nut?
Thanks bro, I've just bought a golf mk6 from auction with the same issue, will definitely give your method a try.
Did you try?
I like your videos: very practical.
What about a wheel locking nut that has outside free spinning type?
I also bought at auction :-(
Thanks heaps saved me time and money ! I needed 21mm Socket for a Mk5 2005 Golf TDI.
Just tried this… newer VW lock nuts have a protective outer ring to prevent this from working now. Older ones do not so I would check before slapping on a socket
"Don't tell them what you did with it" :-D LOL
This method will not work on the gen 2 VW/Audi locking lug bolts if the wheels were tightened past 80-90ft lbs. There is an outer ring that will just spin freely and not loosen the bolt. I'm actually surprised he got this one off. You can buy the entire set of keys off amazon, that's really the best way, otherwise you will have to dremel/chisel off the outer ring and then pound on a socket or easy out.
Mine has a ring on the outside of the locknut that spins so you cant do this... going to have to use a welder 🤷♂️
You should've included on how to remove the lock nut from the socket.
Vise and a small rod bang it out
Worked for me on a X5. Thanks!
that's what she said! @ 2:05
You guys are legends thank you 🚗👍💜
World Mechanics: "It is not OK to steal somebody's car BUT it is OK to steal replacement sockets from the motor spares shop."
Before even watching this all I do is hammer on a similar size sicker and your done then sell wheels o Craig’s list haha
Thanks guys I'll give it a go . I've just been quoted £60 .
SAFTEY IS NUMER ONE PRIROTY
James B u stole CRAZYRUSSIANHACKERS START :/
James B omg i love that guy! Haha!
My 2010 vw Jetta didn't work with 22mm 12pt deep socket, it stripped the metal and I'm trying to use hacksaw to remove the metal from the socket.
Nice one the man in my road is getting up in the morning to find is bmw on bricks
Lmaooo
Thanks for the advice and I will NOT steal anybody's rims
As a VW tech this doesn't work with the rings that spin on the locks. You need the ring removal tool then a eater socket.
my son has a 2010 cc Volkswagen and we cant get it off his tire, he has a flat. I called Volkswagen company and they said he would have to bring it them in order for them to take off the tire. we don't have that kind of money to tow it to them. My husband tried the way you showed on your video. the video was done a few years ago. do you know were we can purchase a key? we did order one but it wasn't the correct key. thank you any kind of help.
Did the nut had like a spinning cover? Because i tried to do it with 12point socket but its only cover spins around the nut and no action…. 😢 please help me!!!
I see a "Martenica" on the guys wrist. You guys are from BG or RO?
Thanks now I have a garage full of wheels
@2:05 trust me buddy I always do 🤣
I want to see the part in the video that's missing in the middle
Thanks ive been searching for good tutorial on how to steal rims that have lock nuts on them
If the rims you're stealing are in a good enough spot to hammer on them for 5 minutes, you'd do better to steal the whole car and take the rims off elsewhere.
Hello..what side is right socket to remove the lock nut from jetta 2005 2.5??i ruined one bolt because somebody put that lock nut in a car a bought..i have no right socket so ..
Think they've caught on to this. My Acuras key is the perfect size that every socket is either far to small, or too big
on new OZ wheels, the wheel bolt bore diameter is so small that only slim type 17mm sockets can fit in , anything bigger and the socket wont even fit in the wheel bolt borehole.
Genios ,Abrazo desde argentina
How do I do it if your lock nut is the one with the outer part just spins like a bearing
just watched a tyre place do this, they buggered up my nut key so I got them to replace all my lock nuts with normal nuts. Mine had the rotating cuffs on as well. They put a screwdriver/pointy metal rod on the outer cuff and whacked with a hammer to split the cuff. They could then take the cuff off and proceed to hammer a 12 point socket on the nut and remove. Took them minutes to do.
@@paullines1185 did they damage your wheel at all while hammering? From this video, looks like the socket damages the wheel as it's smacking into place.
@@Goflyingbear no wheel was fine. Didnt take much hammering to destroy the cuff
If you do this with the outer spinner still on then you'll be knackered. The socket gets stuck on the outer spinner and won't come off.
Is that how they are on Volksies? I mostly see the regular McGard one-piece lock nuts in the junkyard...
That intro music sounds like something out of a Mega Man title from the 80s.
This method is a good idea... but it is not without its problems. My effort was to purchase a Kincrome 22mm deep socket. (AU$20.00). I followed the video instruction and tried to undo the lock bolt. However, that failed and all that happened was the socket just rotated on the lock bolt. At first, I thought it was spinning on a ring that was meant to prevent the theft of your wheels by anyone trying this method. As it turned out... it wasn't a spinning outer ring... but it was the socket spinning on the outer surface of the lock bolt. (My lock bolts do not have a floating outer ring.)
In my case... the Audi anti-lock bolt was harder than the Kincrome socket. The anti-theft bolt actually sheared (cutaway) the 12 Point socket spline. That socket spline made no biting indentation in the lock bolt... WHAT-SO-EVER!
So my experience is that the video method did not work. It was an AU$20.00 fail. That's was not too bad... but it got worse!
What was the worst to come?
OK... this is what was worse to come...
My issue with the tire was a slow leak. It was losing 20 psi in ten days... but that varied with the sort of use. Slow short runs at low speed are very different to longer runs at highway speeds building up tire temperature... The second is just too dangerous to do in any circumstance. The last thing you need is for your tire to suddenly deflate at 100 km/hr. RIGHT???
Of course, that is worse!
However... as I knew the issue and danger... I didn't drive over 60 km/hr. I particularly wanted the vehicle with me to cross-check the socket depth and the outside diameter so it would actually be a fit for purpose solution. I also want to see if I could use a 12 Point Impact Socket... rather than a standard Kincrome deep socket. (A better idea, one would think.)
In driving to the tool retailer at 60 km/hr... everything went fine. That said... as I was turning across the traffic on a blind corner... wouldn't you know it... as I slowly crossed the lane... a vehicle came around the corner at speed. That vehicle was going to hit me if I didn't cross quickly. So... I hit the accelerator to get out of the way. All good... Yes/No???
It was good I reacted fast and got out of the way.
It was bad because I hit the curb and gutter too hard. The tire pressure was down to 30 psi. And as it was a low profile 19" tire... Its sidewall deflected and compressed enough for the rim lip to bottom out and hit the concrete.
So... my good rim was now damaged. It's not so bad as to be anything other than ugly. But we all know the feeling of doing that type of damage to our favourite rims! So that was the first unintentional cost. I will have it dressed and refinished to its original standard. (Cost: ~ about AU$100.00) Also... the idea about using an Impact Socket didn't work out. The Impact Socket outer diameter would not fit in the wheel bolt hole.
All of this was before I purchased the 22mm socket. In truth... the cost of getting a one-use deep 22mm socket became AU$120.00!!! Maybe I should have purchased the OEMs part? I'll take about that in the second comment I'll post after this first post.
Oh... It got worse than that as well !!!
Socket fixed tight... you are left with the problem of getting it off.
Why not just belt the hell out of the socket until it comes off???
You are more likely to do damage to your rim... so don't do that!
I tried to use a Dyna Bolt with a slip-sleeve. An 8mm fits perfectly in the hole at the base of the 1/2" square female. The hole is 11.3mm. ...But it doesn't work because the friction fit you've made with the hammering on of the socket is too much for the Dyna Bolt to pull off. The Dyna Bolt does not fail itself... but the tension needed will pull the expanded sleeve and socket off... well I just pulled it through the socket. It also pulled the socket off a little... but not before the sleeve is squeezed flat and is pulled right out.
I moved on to plan B.
The next thing I knew I needed was a much stronger method than with the Dyna Bolt solution. You can keep using more Dyna Bolts... but I decide to use a "Blind Hole Bearing Puller" with a "Slide Hammer".
Now that method did work for me... but it took me 2 hours and the help of my wife to realise it's would take many more hours than the 2 hours we already up into it. The issue was energy losses with the slide hammer. Every joint in the draw hammer lost enough energy to have me realises I needed to use a hydraulic puller to ensure the joint energy losses were minimised and full effect was given to the slide hammer blows. But I didn't have what I needed in my Porta-Power kit and those items would have cost hundreds and hundreds of dollars more.
The solution I came up with was to use my work vehicle to place tension on the slide hammer shaft and take out any rebound movements when I used the slide hammer.
I used a 10m long 10mm Grade 800 Herc-Alloy chain. I gave myself 2 metres clearance. I secured the chain around the tow bar square to the Audi A4 rim. The other end of the loop of the chain was placed around the slide hammer drawbar, which had a "T" handle for tightening the mandrill into the socket 11.3mm hole The mandrill was a 10mm to 13mm expanding mandrill. That's the important size to remember for a 22mm socket. You must have it enter the hole in the smallest size... then expand it to full resistance. In my case that was 11.35mm. That was a slightly overtight fit.
My wife took up the chair slack and lock on the Brakes, (in Static Tension). I used the slide hammer and it over a full millimetre was won. That millimetre was 3 times more than what I'd achieved with just using the slide hammer by itself. Taking out rebound energy losses made that much difference. The other thing I knew from the first blow... the moment it moved saw the full tension of the chain pull loss again. The next effort was the best solution. I asked my wife to take up the tension again. But... this time I asked her to feather the throttle as if she was holding the car at a traffic light when on a hill. With that Dynamic Tension... I just needed one tap and the rest of the 15mm of socket popped off effortlessly.
So... I managed to remove the socket that did not grip or cut into the lock bolt. But I still have a slow leaking puncher that must be fixed. I also want to do a full try rotation. Yet... I still need a solution for removing the lock bolts on all 4 tires.
The method in this video is not going to work for me.
The better video to review is as follows. I hope the original guy will see my post as a supplement to his work-around and is an alternative that might be the solution for others like me that didn't get the result we needed from his suggestions.
The link is...
m.th-cam.com/video/53_xf90NaDU/w-d-xo.html
OK... you might be asking why didn't just go to Audi Australia and bought a new Lock Bolt Key???
Good question! ...Well, the cost that Audi Australia's service centre asked for the replacement key was AU$120.00. I ended up buying 1.) a Kincrome 22mm deep socket for AU$20.00 plus 2.) a slid hammer and mandrill kit for AU$199.00... and I've also done AU$100.00 of superficial damage to my AU$500.00 Audi OEM rim.
Am I mad I can hear you crying out at me!!!
That's a fair cry. However... I prefer to do anything other than reward Audi and the price gouging there is in their AU$120.00 asking price for their lock bolt key.
Here it is everyone. If we pay a "Price Gouging" amount... we are telling Audi or any other vehicle manufacturer... "That's OK... I'll let you do me over."
The AliExpress cost is going to come in at approximately AU$35 to AU$45.00... landed at my door.
All the tools I purchased in my work-around remain mine and have expanded my tool collection. No, lost value there. The only thing I can't undo is the damage to my rim on the curb and gutter. But that too is a running cost of owning any vehicle... and that could happen at any time. It was unfortunate to have happened while I was chasing up tools to fix my issue and I might have avoided that... it happened.
I hope my experience helps someone save themself a little drama.
😂 he said don’t steal 😂 my key broke so thanks for teaching us.
Thank you, it works!!! ☺️
+World Mechanics
can you turn music off ?
To got it out of the socket screw it in a few turns and tap the wrench outward with hammer. Boom
Didn’t work on my 2015 VW. I just ended up breaking off the outer shell of the security lug. Now I just ended up with a extra 22mm socket and a damaged wheel bearing. Find a socket that takes out bolts.
HAhaha "Don't use it to steal someones wheels"...
God damnit, that is exactly what i was going to do but i guess i cannot now.
It is a joke.
Personne n'a remarqué l'accent français ici
I lost my car wheels anti theft bolt for VW JETTA 2010. I don't know the code number for this . If you know the code number would you please tell me I need to buy it urgently because wheel need to replace.
My neighbour stole my wheels after watching this. Just kidding. Thanks for posting.
I'm not worried about the cheap socket. My concern is missing the socket with the hammer and putting a nasty dent in the wheel.
that's what I did fml
I have this problem woth my 2012 VW CC, are the studs the same size?
Did you do that with the spinning collar still on?
Thank you it’s helpful
Man that ring 👊👊👊👊
This has a spinning sleeve so just hammering a socket won't open the nut only spin the sleeve. It skipped after you hammered it on and before turning the breaker bar
Im dead when he laughs and says dont tell anyone
Just tried, did not work for me personally
I did this to put on the locking nuts. Worked a treat. Fked alloys though😂
Hi. I don't understand what size it's the socket .please can you tell me? Or somebody can reply?Thank you
Most helpful video I could find on this type of locking bolt, everyone else only covers how to remove the star keys that insert, thanks for saving my butt!
What type of sucket did you guys used ?
4 wheels, 4 wheel lock nuts, 4 new sockets??
Yeah, there needs to be a way to get the bolt out the socket.
@@critical_mass8279 push it out from the back
Worked perfect with 22 mm removed collar then use extractor !!
What extractor?
works a treat
Didn't work. Tried with the 22mm 12 pt socket. The outside of the locking nut stripped off and was stuck on the 12 pt socket. MAjor mess. Now i have to get the car towed.
Worked first time
Good luck getting your socket back.. Time to hit harbor freight tools
This technique will not work on most cars. I have tapered impact sockets designed for this and even their use is limited to cheaper cars like VW and Ford.
I had 100 sets locking nut always in car , repented now got 4 yrs for it 2013
Great video for theaves.
Doesn't work cos outer spins. I will try again and try get it further on. But can't see it working
nice car without dents
It's obviously a flipper, you clueless fucking Hun.
Ford fiestas mk6 possible use nut ?
Will this work on a broken one?
Plzz share video range rower evoque special nut change process
Is this do the same bmw locknut to
The cut at 2:22 tells me this is BS and went totally wrong.
I had to do this once...the locking shape shore right off...
Yeah... But... Mostly, each car manufacturer - depending on the parent company - has a different locking nut. Sometimes, each trim level of each engine has a different locking nut size. That is Gospel.
SO... .. Some have an outer ring. Some don't.
You forgot to put a little hair around it!!😂
You are great 😊
Thanks, I have the same problem ,I lost my key
You have to break that circle around the stud bro,why you didn’t show it?
Can you re use the lock nut?