Excellent presentation on removal and installation of nutsert. This is a quality video in which mechanic schools can use to teach students! Well done 👍🏻
I ordered your kit a few months ago and got around to replacing two Nutcerts today. After drilling out the old ones I couldn't believe how easy this was. Thanks for the product and the video. Awesome.
Lisle 22800 is a tool used to install lug studs into wheel hubs. Same effect where it allows you to set them much more easily and without stripping or bending the threads. You could probably use the Lisle tool (it's just a bearing like this) for this task. I own the Lisle tool already, so I will probably use it to replace the nut-serts in my 98 TJ this coming spring since they're sketchy at best due to rust. Thanks for your straightforward video. No BS and right to the meat and potatoes!
Yesterday I removed the trans crossmember of my 95 YJ for the first time since I bought it.. Took a day plus on the lift with, blowtorch, 3 foot 1/2 strong arm, large air impact, very large pry bar, multi-penetrating fluid, and candle with two and three men with dedication. The bolts are demolished (and old inserts), and now I know about these insert, and recognize what I can now do to replace them. Many thanks for the information
To anyone watching this and needing to loosen your skid plate on your tj, i suggest a few things before you try to loosen them. Use a large hammer and hit the bolt heads hard, inline with the bolt shaft, also can use airhammer just dont go too crazy, think light to moderate force, vibrate the thing. Also if you have mapgas/propane/oxy ace torch, heat up the bolt heads till they just start to glow if you can get them that hot and let cool. If you havent cleaned out your frame of rust and debris, do that next. Combination of screwdriver, hitting along frame with hammer/airhammer, and custom tool consisting of thin cable where you make a loop at one end in cable, with small section of small chain attached, and other end you put it drill, this way you can use your electric drill and snake this setup along the whole frame. Clean it up best you can and blow out rust, good time to inspect now for safety/integrity with inspection camera, especially around lower control arm mounts, those are the most vulnerable to rust through. If frame is ok, spray inside with oil undercoating, you can get it in spray cans and use an extended flexible applicator hose with mist nozzle end, it works on any spray can and sprays 360 degrees. After you spray the whole inside, wait a few days. Then when you go to loosen skidplate, hammer them again, and then carefully loosen a little at a time, breaker bar or 1/2in impact, going loosen/tighten/loosen and they should come out unless your frame is horrific inside, in which case i hope your control arm mount areas are ok/safe. If bolts look ok, clean up real good, maybe chase threads of bolts and holes with tap and die if rusty. Coat the bolts with marine grease or nickle antiseize and when you reinstall, torque to 70% of stock torque spec. This method worked on an 04 TJ in new england with 230k miles and much rust that had to be removed from inside the frame. And make sure you have a drain hole near each lower control arm mount, if you dont have ones drill some a few inches inboard of the mount ends. There are videos on this where someone compared sizes/what size isnt big enough, i forgot the size you want, i believe at least 1/4 in. This will keep water from building up in the frame and rotting it out near control arms. If removing old nutserts/bolts, if you had to grind i would grind them flat with frame and then hammer into frame and get out. If you try the "tic tac toe" method you will likely overgrind making small cuts into the frame like what happened in this video, potentially could weaken it/result in stress cracks, better safe than sorry🙂
Amen for this video and a video done extremely well! I have the two middle nutcerts that have spun out of the frame. One was gone when I got the Jeep (89 YJ) the other stripped out trying to get the bolt out. Had to cut bolt after dropping the plate. (Yes the hole in the skid plate is rusted out large enough for the bolt head to fit through! 😞) Have a lot of rust around all the certs, and I’m wondering if my frame is compromised. The middle holes as well as the transmission mount reinforcement plate in the skid plate are definitely rusted to the point where I need a new/better shape plate. Wish me luck, will definitely be buying this kit. Subbed.
I found a rivet kit that works like your "new tool" pulls the whole nutserts without spinning the threads themselves. Definitely the ideal way. Kinda Random but I noticed you're missing your right hand pointer finger nail, my hand looks exactly the same LOL. Lost the tip of my pointer finger cleaning a motorcycle chain on the center stand running as a teenager... Live and learn 🤣
Not that easy when you are under the Jeep but awesome information thanks.Replacing mine today already got all six ready to plug. Hope this bearing thing works for me
Your video is top notch. You Covered every aspect that is needed to know to get the job done. Thank you. By the way, I've been trying to get into the blackmagic site and its not working. Are they still in business?
They aren't weld nuts. They are nutserts. They might have a tack weld on them but nothing is welded on the inside. Grind it out drill it out just like one the video.
I have a 1994 YJ with that same issue..which kit should I get 1” or 1&1/2” with the tool. Thanks in advance This is new to me..apologies in advance..lots of positive comments on here 😊
My Nutserts are from the factory so they are welded. I drilled out the middle no problem. Do I need to simply grind down the welded part of the old Nutsert so my frame is clean and flat?
@@TheBFHGarage No. I hit a rock on the trail bending that long cross member and when removing to replace the long narrow OEM skid plate the nut came loose on drivers side. The hole is a bit larger than 1/2' so would those nutserts be 12 mm from Black magic brakes?
@@dickwooden4496 figure out what size the bolt and nut combination is. Take one out and measure size and thread pitch. If it's a nut and not a nutsert, then replace with same. If it's a nutsert, call BMB with the size and see if he has one that will work.
Are nutserts used for the rear bumper? For example, when I took my rear bumper off, I broke a bolt where it goes into the frame rail. Can I follow the same steps to drill it out/replace? Thanks!
I wouldn't use a nutsert for rear bumper attachment points. Especially if you plan to tow. Remember that the nutserts have the flange and they might not allow bumpers to fit correctly. YMMV
Watch the video. Same principles apply. Take a grinder and grind just enough that the bolt and nutsert will push up into the frame. Try to keep from grinding into the frame.
Thats what i assumed, but wanted to be sure before going at it! I am new to mechanics but tryin to learn the bestway to tackle everything on my 92yj. Thank you for the prompt reply!
Great video! I have a stripped out nutsert. Only question is you mentioned that once you drill or grind getting the piece that fell into the rail with a magnet. Won’t the crimped portion block it from being pulled out of the hole. Are you getting at it from another wider opening elsewhere on the frame rail? Mine is in a rail that doesn’t have an opening.
Tack welding does nothing other than keep them from spinning if they are not set correctly. The best thing to do is set them correctly and the new tool makes that effortless and allows for a consistent set every time.
@@blazenfire13 I'm glad this helps you out! I suggest ordering the kit before removal of the skid plate. It's rare that they all come out without issue, especially in the rust belt.
I put links in the description for both nutserts and the setting tool.
Excellent presentation on removal and installation of nutsert. This is a quality video in which mechanic schools can use to teach students! Well done 👍🏻
@@JDLasVegas-o4m that's a big compliment. Thanks!
I ordered your kit a few months ago and got around to replacing two Nutcerts today. After drilling out the old ones I couldn't believe how easy this was. Thanks for the product and the video. Awesome.
It's not my product! It's Black Magic Brakes... I'm not sponsored by him either, I just use his products because they are proven to work!
@@TheBFHGarage Sorry. It was your video that turned me on to it so you get the credit.
@@chrissmollen3190 No problem!
Ordered all new nutserts & installation tool for the TJ!
Installing them tomorrow!
THANK -YOU BLACK MAGIC BRAKES..you guys are LIFE SAVERS!! 🤘😁🤘
And B.F.H for one of the best removal & installation videos I've seen..THANK-YOU SIR!! 🤘😁🤘
NUTSERTS WORKED!!
INSTALLATION TOOL WORKED!!
PERFECT JOB!!..THANK YOU GUYS AGAIN!! 🤘😁🤘
Lisle 22800 is a tool used to install lug studs into wheel hubs. Same effect where it allows you to set them much more easily and without stripping or bending the threads. You could probably use the Lisle tool (it's just a bearing like this) for this task. I own the Lisle tool already, so I will probably use it to replace the nut-serts in my 98 TJ this coming spring since they're sketchy at best due to rust. Thanks for your straightforward video. No BS and right to the meat and potatoes!
Wow this was such a comprehensive tutorial, every question I had answered, thank you!!
Yesterday I removed the trans crossmember of my 95 YJ for the first time since I bought it..
Took a day plus on the lift with, blowtorch, 3 foot 1/2 strong arm, large air impact, very large pry bar, multi-penetrating fluid, and candle with two and three men with dedication.
The bolts are demolished (and old inserts), and now I know about these insert, and recognize what I can now do to replace them.
Many thanks for the information
Just bought both the tool and Nutsets from Black Magic, threw me at first didn't know they had free shipping. Thanks again.
I don’t hit the like button on TH-cam hardly ever. But this video deserved it
Wow, this video was absolutely amazing. Thank you
You just saved my bacon. 89 YJ with the crossmember bolts almost all worthless. Thank You.
To anyone watching this and needing to loosen your skid plate on your tj, i suggest a few things before you try to loosen them. Use a large hammer and hit the bolt heads hard, inline with the bolt shaft, also can use airhammer just dont go too crazy, think light to moderate force, vibrate the thing. Also if you have mapgas/propane/oxy ace torch, heat up the bolt heads till they just start to glow if you can get them that hot and let cool. If you havent cleaned out your frame of rust and debris, do that next. Combination of screwdriver, hitting along frame with hammer/airhammer, and custom tool consisting of thin cable where you make a loop at one end in cable, with small section of small chain attached, and other end you put it drill, this way you can use your electric drill and snake this setup along the whole frame. Clean it up best you can and blow out rust, good time to inspect now for safety/integrity with inspection camera, especially around lower control arm mounts, those are the most vulnerable to rust through. If frame is ok, spray inside with oil undercoating, you can get it in spray cans and use an extended flexible applicator hose with mist nozzle end, it works on any spray can and sprays 360 degrees. After you spray the whole inside, wait a few days. Then when you go to loosen skidplate, hammer them again, and then carefully loosen a little at a time, breaker bar or 1/2in impact, going loosen/tighten/loosen and they should come out unless your frame is horrific inside, in which case i hope your control arm mount areas are ok/safe. If bolts look ok, clean up real good, maybe chase threads of bolts and holes with tap and die if rusty. Coat the bolts with marine grease or nickle antiseize and when you reinstall, torque to 70% of stock torque spec. This method worked on an 04 TJ in new england with 230k miles and much rust that had to be removed from inside the frame. And make sure you have a drain hole near each lower control arm mount, if you dont have ones drill some a few inches inboard of the mount ends. There are videos on this where someone compared sizes/what size isnt big enough, i forgot the size you want, i believe at least 1/4 in. This will keep water from building up in the frame and rotting it out near control arms. If removing old nutserts/bolts, if you had to grind i would grind them flat with frame and then hammer into frame and get out. If you try the "tic tac toe" method you will likely overgrind making small cuts into the frame like what happened in this video, potentially could weaken it/result in stress cracks, better safe than sorry🙂
Thank you much. What was a dilemma with the skid plate on my Jeep liberty looks easy to fix now.
Thanks to This video I fixed my jeep that tool is awesome easy to install…
Amen for this video and a video done extremely well! I have the two middle nutcerts that have spun out of the frame. One was gone when I got the Jeep (89 YJ) the other stripped out trying to get the bolt out. Had to cut bolt after dropping the plate. (Yes the hole in the skid plate is rusted out large enough for the bolt head to fit through! 😞) Have a lot of rust around all the certs, and I’m wondering if my frame is compromised. The middle holes as well as the transmission mount reinforcement plate in the skid plate are definitely rusted to the point where I need a new/better shape plate. Wish me luck, will definitely be buying this kit. Subbed.
If your frame is compromised you might be able to repair it with a safe-T-cap.
I found a rivet kit that works like your "new tool" pulls the whole nutserts without spinning the threads themselves. Definitely the ideal way. Kinda Random but I noticed you're missing your right hand pointer finger nail, my hand looks exactly the same LOL. Lost the tip of my pointer finger cleaning a motorcycle chain on the center stand running as a teenager... Live and learn 🤣
Yeah, accidents happen😂
Very helpful for exactly what I needed
Not that easy when you are under the Jeep but awesome information thanks.Replacing mine today already got all six ready to plug. Hope this bearing thing works for me
The bearing nutsert set tool makes it SO EASY!
Awesome. Great vid. Big help. Thanks
Your video is top notch. You Covered every aspect that is needed to know to get the job done. Thank you. By the way, I've been trying to get into the blackmagic site and its not working. Are they still in business?
Yes they are. Try going to the site and search from there.
Very good helpful thanks
Very well done video. Thanks!
Thank you!
This just happened on my 2022 Gladiator. Is if the same set up for the skid plate bolt? Just spins at about 1/4 inch out.
I haven't dealt with my Gladiator yet. I should go look, but I'm pretty sure it's the same process.
Great video
I have one that won't let me screw in the bolt. Can I tap that out with a tap and dye?
You can try
How much thread engagement needed for the bolt?
The threads should be fully in the nutsert for best result.
Very nice tutorial... A+
So I would imagine I need to drill out the current weldnuts inside of the frame in order to fit the nutsert correct?
They aren't weld nuts. They are nutserts. They might have a tack weld on them but nothing is welded on the inside. Grind it out drill it out just like one the video.
I have a 1994 YJ with that same issue..which kit should I get 1” or 1&1/2” with the tool. Thanks in advance
This is new to me..apologies in advance..lots of positive comments on here 😊
Go to blackmagicbrakes.com and it will show which set to buy
@@TheBFHGarage thank you sir!
Thanks for this video! I almost lost my skid plate last year due to bolt unscrewed on their own
What type of drill bit was that? I bought a Milwaukee 5/8 and it didn’t have a good time
It was a regular bit from Home Depot, nothing special
My Nutserts are from the factory so they are welded. I drilled out the middle no problem. Do I need to simply grind down the welded part of the old Nutsert so my frame is clean and flat?
Correct
Great video - thanks
Also, mine are welded on. 1990 wrangler yj.
Same exact process for removal. Grind smooth whatever is left.
This is my biggest fear of dropping the skid plate thank you
Nothing to be afraid of. Buy the nutserts kit ahead of time and it's super easy!
Hey guys, the link for the website to purchase these nutserts not working. Can anyone share a proper link, please?
I will look into it. Thanks for letting me know👍
Ever used on CJ frame? If so how do you deal with the factory weldnuts inside ?
I have not. I'd have to see what options would be good
Can you send a link for a 2021 Jeep Rubicon - for 3 bolts holding the transmission skid plate using the bearing method? Thanks
Is yours stripped out or rusted already? I would take it in under warranty...
@@TheBFHGarage No. I hit a rock on the trail bending that long cross member and when removing to replace the long narrow OEM skid plate the nut came loose on drivers side. The hole is a bit larger than 1/2' so would those nutserts be 12 mm from Black magic brakes?
@@dickwooden4496 figure out what size the bolt and nut combination is. Take one out and measure size and thread pitch. If it's a nut and not a nutsert, then replace with same. If it's a nutsert, call BMB with the size and see if he has one that will work.
You saved me....lol
Thanks
Awesome to hear!
Are nutserts used for the rear bumper? For example, when I took my rear bumper off, I broke a bolt where it goes into the frame rail. Can I follow the same steps to drill it out/replace? Thanks!
I wouldn't use a nutsert for rear bumper attachment points. Especially if you plan to tow. Remember that the nutserts have the flange and they might not allow bumpers to fit correctly. YMMV
I have 2 bolts broken off in my nutserts on my skidplate, what should I do?
Watch the video. Same principles apply. Take a grinder and grind just enough that the bolt and nutsert will push up into the frame. Try to keep from grinding into the frame.
Thats what i assumed, but wanted to be sure before going at it! I am new to mechanics but tryin to learn the bestway to tackle everything on my 92yj. Thank you for the prompt reply!
Where did you get th "new" tool?
Lol if you watch the video you'll see that I got it from blackmagicbrakes.com
Get it when you order the inserts from BMB.
I saw that you got the nutserts from BMB, but I didn't see that you had gotten the tool from Blaine as well.
@@timhorne8126 Ahhh.......yes. I thought that I had mentioned it. My bad!
Great video! I have a stripped out nutsert. Only question is you mentioned that once you drill or grind getting the piece that fell into the rail with a magnet. Won’t the crimped portion block it from being pulled out of the hole. Are you getting at it from another wider opening elsewhere on the frame rail? Mine is in a rail that doesn’t have an opening.
Will tac welding them work?
Tack welding does nothing other than keep them from spinning if they are not set correctly. The best thing to do is set them correctly and the new tool makes that effortless and allows for a consistent set every time.
@@TheBFHGarage thank you, great video. Makes me feel more at ease when I need to get rid of the drop down kit that was installed
@@blazenfire13 I'm glad this helps you out! I suggest ordering the kit before removal of the skid plate. It's rare that they all come out without issue, especially in the rust belt.
How long does it take to receive your part
I don't sell the parts, I only review them and give my opinion. I can tell you from experience that Black Magic Brakes ships very fast!
Awesome, awesome video! Thanks so much.
That insert tool is worth it's weight in gold!