Hey everyone! Lots of folks “suggesting” on this one that I should have opened the hinge out 180° to solve the clearance problem. That’s missing the point- that does nothing to improve clearance for the bolt heads on the motor bracket which require the motor to sit at a high angle. Some folks suggested mortising the wood underneath as well, and sure I suppose you could. That’s a lot more work than what I did though, and my approach means the bolts are accessible for removing the motor without removing any wood screws (which weakens their hold in the future).
what you should have _really_ done is create robots in the shape of tardigrades which would have arduinos programmed to make them grab both the surfaces and hold tight _and_ for fun, one would make a quiet metal on metal squeak and the other a very quiet fart sound rarely, at long random intervals, maybe once every two to seven months
I probably would have just carved out some clearance from the table's underside. It's wood and you could probably chisel out a pocket for the bolt heads to recess into, but I have more than 1 chisel too. We do what we feel comfortable with and if it works, it works :D
I thought you did a fine job on the belt slot, and the project overall. I’m not a fan of the Home Depot guard material, but it is 100% justifiable for getting rid of it! On the V-belt, some of your vibration may come from the permanent bends in the material as it flops over the round pulleys. If it bothers you, test by using a more flexible replacement like a strong cord, and potentially replace it with segmented link belt. I put a link belt on my table saw (which I have used to cut wood AND cast iron!), and it took a lot of the vibration out.
A story told to me a half century ago or more by an old wood worker. There were two skilled craftsmen, one a machinist, one a woodworker. Needless to say, they were great friends, but did give each other a hard time about their chosen materials. Both did very fine work. But the machinist did have a problem. When the blade on his bandsaw would break, he could just never get the new one welded together right, the joint kept breaking. So in the end, he would take it to his wood working friend to weld it. The woodworker would never tell the machinist his secret on getting a good spot weld. Anyway, the both had a common friend and one day that friend asked of the woodworker, so why can you do that weld when the machinist can't. The wood worker responded, we both file the end taper correctly to get the weld, I blow off the ends to clear the filings, but my machinist friend wipes those ends off with his greasy fingers. I know, a bit long, but what the heck. The point is, cleanliness is next to a proper current path for welding.
@johannesfiftyeight9287 ....or abuse it. 😂 I have plenty of friends that fall into the latter category. Having said that, I think Quinn probably has great woodworking skills, but she has too much fun abusing us poor woodworkers to admit it.
You put the hole in the correct workbench, which is within tolerance for us woodworkers. That said if you do find yourself doing something like this again, you can save yourself some strife by investing in whatever your local store's second-cheapest jigsaw is.
As a lifelong woodworker (I am now 74) I think your installation looks great and having worked on many construction crews I learned early that every craftsman has a way of doing things that may not be by the book but the end result is what counts. So great looking job.
Jeez. Whoever put that first hole in the bracket did a terrible job lining it up with the two you added. 😄 Your videos are always a bright spot in my day. Thanks for sharing your projects. 🙂
Ha, ha, I think I’d rather look at the radiator! It’s odd to think some where some one decided that the world needed an ugly punched mesh radiator guard,odder still that people buy it.
@@johnsherborne3245 It's intended to prevent small child sized fingers from getting burned on the radiator surfaces. Been superceded by MDF in recent years.
The house I grew up in (Sears Kit Home in Washington, DC) had radiator covers of the material with the four-leaf-clover pattern in it. I also recall some baking station in my youth that had that same pattern as venty decoration. The radiator covers were made from wood panels like a book case with that screen over the front so they heat could come out, all painted the same as the rest of the walls in the house. The top was open, like a bookshelf, and frequently had a cat on it in our house (there were several scattered about; also good for lamps and the occasional small statue...).
I think that the radiator cover sheet goods is thinner, with smaller holes . The brass looks more like the stuff used for forced air floor vent covers. (At least in my experience of 75+ years in Toronto)
Ah thanks - I finally get what is meant by 'radiator covers'. Being a car-guy I immediately went to car radiators and could not figure out for the life me what others were talking about. 😲
Quinn , you should not be ashamed of your work . Not everything looks like the Mona Lisa and doesn't have to . Your wood working was fine and served . You created a beautiful die filer and bench , well done . Take care .
This is like the story of my life, doing pretty high-precision work with basically crap tools. But Quinn has taken it to a little higher level than I have on the machine front,, have overall. It's nice to learn that I'm not the only one doing thousands or ten thousands with metal, wood, high-impact plastics, blah blah. Thank you for your corroboration for what my colleagues regard as incomparable to our daily work. Your videos are so good and pleasant that I watch some of them over again. Hey, and I've pitched in on Patreon, because you deserve it, but under a different identity, because.
As a hobbyist with limited space and various bench mounted bits of machinery (like the home made router table), I solved the 'emergency stop' situation by buying (Ebay) a metal heavy duty enclosed foot switch and attached a double output short lead to it - good for powering up and down machine and dust extraction at the same time. So in the event in wanting to cut the power A.S.A.P. especially when both hands are in use, it's pretty instantaneous.
I have been thinking this too during this entire series. Put one on an old Craftsman drill press and I'm never going back. Of course it might have had something to do with the belt it was replacing being decades old.
Nice outcome for a completed project. If you ever have to cut a through slot again, drill through far enough for the spur on the spade bit to penetrate the underside and then flip the stock over and drill back toward the centre. No tearout guaranteed. Cheers, Preso
I declare this video "Not Terrible ! ! ! ".... Your sense of humor was in fine form for this video ! I chuckled and laughed through pretty much all of it! Especially the "Not Terrible" fanfare ! You're too hard on yourself when it comes to the modest wood working. The only "trick" you missed out on using was stopping short and flipping the top over and drill from above using the pilots from the tip just breaking thru as described by richf419 below. As for the chisel work Paul Sellers or James Wright would have given it a "thumbs up" just fine. The basket guard is also brilliant. I'll be "borrowing" that idea if I need it in the future.
Long ago I worked in a lab testing plastic additives. We had a lab-scale plastic extrusion machine with a heated snout that caused more than a few burn accident reports to be written. I built a shield from 1/4" hardware cloth that was, in design, almost identical to yours. The number of burns produced went down considerably. However, the number of reports on small cuts caused by the edge of the hardware cloth went up a lot. Eventually we got wise and relocated the machine so it stopped being a global hazard. In the spirit of "I love your channel" I won't ask for any royalties for using my unpatented design. 😺 Cheers!
When I was working as a mechanic I saw one of the old timers in the shop estimating v-belt lengths with one of the shop extension cords, it's flexible and wide enough to fill the Vs in most pulleys without touching the bottom. I've used the trick a fair amount myself and it works pretty well, but I don't have a lot of extension cords most of the time and I found that surgical tubing works pretty well too. :D
As Quinn said, unless it makes you happy to build it, save the money and buy it. For instance, for my mini lathe, I needed a good strong stable stand to get it up and running. Yes, at some point I will find a good used roll away tool box for that purpose, but for now it's on a Wen wood working lathe stand. Stable and works nicely.
From a cellulose monkey, put a flat reference on the lines you want to mortise down into. Then keeping the flat back of the chisel on there gives you an easy flat pretty edge. No criticism from me :)
Yea, I was impressed that you didn't need a mallet, so your one-good-chisel was indeed good. My only thought was that you're not holding it vertically -- you should be cutting, not scraping. Having one very nice chisel would be better than having a drawer full of cheap ones. But I happened across the Lee Valley Tools catalog where he editorializes a lot, listing the properties of a good chisel and then concluding "most manufacturers feel that 3 out of 4 will do." He sourced a set of chisels manufactured to his sensibilities that basically give you a whole set for the price of a single Japanese Samurai chisel.
I'm not a machinist and I'm not a woodworker, but I've dabbled in both and it's either fun, or for stuff I can't otherwise get. A lot like programming, actually. And the only reason I don't have a float-lock is I don't have the tools to build one. I barely have a use for one, but every time I use that drill press, I wish I had it.
Woodworker here. 1stly thank you for your videos. I always look forward to them as I'm busy saving money for my 1st metal lathe. Always good idea to put a bit of candle wax on a screw when driving it into hardwood. Lessens the risk of the head snapping off
That metal is what was used to box in large steam or hot water radiators. It's junk metal that is an approximation of similar sheet that would be installed in century homes.
@@kindabluejazz As far as I am aware it is an indigenous word that means "fast water" or "good". But I have no particular authority on that. It's just what I was told.
Quinn, that was a solid job on the dead tree carcass. I've seen so called wood workers whom didn't own a single sharp chisel. Instead they roughed the opening with a saw, and finished with a router.
I remember when I got my first chisel. I had to flatten the oil stone before I used it and spent hours sharpening it. 7 year old me was so proud. Still got that chisel but its had baby's and now Im a proud father of 15 little wood munchers
Quinn, I have to say, as a woodchuck, that you are far better at woodworking than I am at machining. :) As for the float lock vise... I want one every time you show it, but then I look at commercial pricing and go back to buying very expensive joinery saws instead. :)
Love the finished project! Putting the motor underneath was a great idea. One tip you probably won't see in a wood person video - sheet metal screws actually hold just as well in wood as wood screws, sometimes better. From a USDA report from the 30's or 40s, believe it or not. The straight vs tapered shank just hold better. Wood screws are tapered because that's just the way they've always made them. Note that modern wood structural screws are not tapered. ANYWAY - I just stock round head sheet metal because they'll work for both wood and metal, and they won't pull metal brackets out of whack.
Easy way to prevent tear-out is to score the perimeter with a razor knife before taking the tools to it. Works very well with hardwood, not so well with steel.🙃
Speaking as one of those woodworkers who's been the recipient of much good-natured Quinn shade over the years: at the point when I become as good a machinist as you (which ain't never gonna happen) then I'll have the basis for tossing darts at your woodworking skills.😀
HI Quinn the way that I minimize tear out when using a paddle bit is drill like you did until the tip just breaks through then drill from the other side, it works well. Rich
The brass guard really gives nice 1900s vibes! Don't be harsh on you for the woodworking, you got out of your comfort zone and it worked out well. What triggered my OCD was the woodscrew with the washer mounted to the sloped casting....
A Great Build! The next thing I believe I would consider adding would be a small goose-neck vacuum head that can keep the shavings from the filing clear and out of they way (and your lungs)!! Once again, Great Build!
Awesome video as always. A quick tip regarding the blowout when drilling wood: You can clamp a piece of sacrificial wood on the side the drill will exit to support the fibers. This will give you really crisp edges 99% of the time, but it can be a little awkward to get the board in place when your drilling in the center of a large piece.
Although I don't read the comments, if some don't "like" your woodworking, it's their problem not yours. That is a FUNCTIONAL bench, not a fine, museum quality piece of furniture. Well done - from a retired woodworker.
Great Idea with the Stool Jack. I while back I bought a small mortocycle hydraulic scisor lift with casters. It is so useful when all your 'friends' are mysteriously absent when you might need an extra pair of hands. I have used that for all sorts of simular jobs, even using it to jack up one end of a very large bench, so I could llift it just enough from the other side to drag the bench to a new location in the shed. But your stool offers the comfy option when no lifting is required.
Awesome video. For drilling the holes in the wood, I'd recommend a pilot hole and forstner bits, done from both sides to the centre. Gives me a perfect finish every time, no tear out, no backing board needed.
Woodworkers trick: drill a small pilot hole clear thru, use the paddle bit to drill most of the way thru, using the pilot hole as a guide. Flip the piece over and drill thru from the other side using the same pilot holes. Presto-change-o! No tear out! Nice work!
Hi Quinn. FYI, a rule of thumb with o rings is: The cross section should be compressed by 25% and the groove volume should be filled by about 60-70% (90% is the absolute maximum). These numbers apply for a typical o ring seal which is rated for 100ish bar, so they can be tweaked for less demanding applications. And a 15-30 deg lead in chamfer is generally needed to guide the o ring into the bore. In case you wanted to do more math… 🙃
You're too hard on yourself Quinn, that's an excellent job! That's an awesome little sheet metal break you have there, have you done a video or anything about it? Would love to see what it's capable of doing. Again, great video plus your sense of humour makes me lol all the time. 👏👍
Great finish! I enjoyed this build series. Might suggest that you paint the belt guard the same color as the die filer - would help blend the appearance, IMHO.
The results are great. I do have one little nit to pick. The open mesh of the belt guard might allow fillings and other debris to contaminate the belt or motor. I find your content and presentations quite enjoyable. Thanks for sharing
As you are using imperial bananas as a metric conversion you could possibly borrow Curtis' (Cutting Edge Engineering) banana calibrated micrometer and vernier caliper for future projects. Postage costs (time and money) may be prohibitive though. Just a thought.
A plunge router and a decent bit would have made short work of cutting that slot in the worktop. IMHO the powered wood router is about as close to "machining" as most of us woodworkers get. Just like the metalheads out there, we have to be concerned about "feeds and speeds", chip clearance, depth of cut on each pass, selecting the right sized tool for the job, and keeping it cool. Fortunately most woodworking only requires tolerances of 1/32" or so! Just a note to say how much I appreciate your channel, the wit and charm, to say nothing of the skill, tenacity, and creativity of its host!
Love your videos Quinn, now if only you had some sort of reciprocating file machine and a coarse file to clean up the slot in the wooden top... oh wait a moment.😄
I used to make custom cabinets. So, I had more than one chisel, but they were rarely as sharp as they should have been. :) I used the Clover instead of the panels on flat panel cabinet doors in places like pantries and root bins. Just a decorative way to ad air flow to certain cabinets.
that project was nice, can't wait to see it in action (outside the few demonstrations you made ;) ) If I may suggest, you still have some room underside, you could add a drawer to keep neatly at hand the files and toolkit for the machine.
A very fine job executed and explained very well. No mockery or teasing from me, the operations were efficacious and looked decent. I kind of liked the vaguely "steampunk" vibe and there is nothing better than having your tools in easy to use set-ups!
I have a couple vintage belt-driven shop tools: a scroll-saw and a lathe. Both are for dense cellulose-based organic material machining. My motors are both gravity tensioned. I do get a slight motor bounce but nothing dramatic. I had thought of making a tensioner system but I’ve had the same belts for nearly 30 years so I think I’m ok. 😂
ManKind have been getting by with "Not Terrible" since the first two. Not Terrible ain't half bad. I have several projects that have been serving me for years that qualify as Not Terrible.
You need a cover box for the die filer to keep dust out of it when it's not used. And as a platform on which to pile assorted pieces of material and small equipment.
Hey everyone! Lots of folks “suggesting” on this one that I should have opened the hinge out 180° to solve the clearance problem. That’s missing the point- that does nothing to improve clearance for the bolt heads on the motor bracket which require the motor to sit at a high angle. Some folks suggested mortising the wood underneath as well, and sure I suppose you could. That’s a lot more work than what I did though, and my approach means the bolts are accessible for removing the motor without removing any wood screws (which weakens their hold in the future).
what you should have _really_ done is create robots in the shape of tardigrades which would have arduinos programmed to make them grab both the surfaces and hold tight _and_ for fun, one would make a quiet metal on metal squeak and the other a very quiet fart sound rarely, at long random intervals, maybe once every two to seven months
Couple spots of weld, then no bolt heads to deal with!
1/4-20 flat head machine bolts with either allen or torx drive ,, counter sink the hinge plate to match the bolt head or nearest metric size
I probably would have just carved out some clearance from the table's underside. It's wood and you could probably chisel out a pocket for the bolt heads to recess into, but I have more than 1 chisel too. We do what we feel comfortable with and if it works, it works :D
I thought you did a fine job on the belt slot, and the project overall. I’m not a fan of the Home Depot guard material, but it is 100% justifiable for getting rid of it!
On the V-belt, some of your vibration may come from the permanent bends in the material as it flops over the round pulleys. If it bothers you, test by using a more flexible replacement like a strong cord, and potentially replace it with segmented link belt. I put a link belt on my table saw (which I have used to cut wood AND cast iron!), and it took a lot of the vibration out.
You earned plenty of woodworking cred for having a sharp chisel!
If a machinist can't sharpen a chisel, she loses machinist points.
A story told to me a half century ago or more by an old wood worker.
There were two skilled craftsmen, one a machinist, one a woodworker. Needless to say, they were great friends, but did give each other a hard time about their chosen materials.
Both did very fine work. But the machinist did have a problem. When the blade on his bandsaw would break, he could just never get the new one welded together right, the joint kept breaking. So in the end, he would take it to his wood working friend to weld it. The woodworker would never tell the machinist his secret on getting a good spot weld.
Anyway, the both had a common friend and one day that friend asked of the woodworker, so why can you do that weld when the machinist can't. The wood worker responded, we both file the end taper correctly to get the weld, I blow off the ends to clear the filings, but my machinist friend wipes those ends off with his greasy fingers.
I know, a bit long, but what the heck. The point is, cleanliness is next to a proper current path for welding.
@johannesfiftyeight9287 ....or abuse it. 😂 I have plenty of friends that fall into the latter category. Having said that, I think Quinn probably has great woodworking skills, but she has too much fun abusing us poor woodworkers to admit it.
Should have used the die filer to massage the slot….😂
@@MrTjbnwi I was wondering why she didn't mill the slot, and then square up the corners with the die filer. You beat me to it!
That stool as a jack trick is genius.
Hey Quinn just wanted to tell you I love your sense of humour and narrative style. Keep the videos coming and I'll keep watching!
And love the Skookum reference( except for keeping something in the vice!!!?)🫢🤪lol!!! And back to the grommets -McMaster Carr!!
You put the hole in the correct workbench, which is within tolerance for us woodworkers. That said if you do find yourself doing something like this again, you can save yourself some strife by investing in whatever your local store's second-cheapest jigsaw is.
Hey, "reasonably skookum" and "not terrible", in the same project? A winner!
As a lifelong woodworker (I am now 74) I think your installation looks great and having worked on many construction crews I learned early that every craftsman has a way of doing things that may not be by the book but the end result is what counts. So great looking job.
Jeez. Whoever put that first hole in the bracket did a terrible job lining it up with the two you added. 😄
Your videos are always a bright spot in my day. Thanks for sharing your projects. 🙂
Thankyou 👍
I don’t know what they were thinking, putting it way out of line like that. 😬
If you had a working dye grinder, you could slot the hole to the right place.
A wood chisel won't work!
@@richardw3294 not with that attitude it won't. 😄
Having the holes not-lined-up is actually stronger for the wood, so there!
22:36 - It was used to build radiator covers. You wouldn't have to see the radiator but air could still flow in and out.
Ha, ha, I think I’d rather look at the radiator! It’s odd to think some where some one decided that the world needed an ugly punched mesh radiator guard,odder still that people buy it.
@@johnsherborne3245 It's intended to prevent small child sized fingers from getting burned on the radiator surfaces. Been superceded by MDF in recent years.
@@AB-ku4my the joys of international you tube, who’d have thought it. Radiators here in the UK are seldom that hot, at least that makes sense though.
It also makes it more comfortable for a cat to lay on
Yes. This is where I have seen it-including my childhood home. Though some of the radiators were left exposed in all of their cast glory.
1:47 Thank you for converting 20ft into microns. I was confused but that helped tremendously.
The house I grew up in (Sears Kit Home in Washington, DC) had radiator covers of the material with the four-leaf-clover pattern in it. I also recall some baking station in my youth that had that same pattern as venty decoration. The radiator covers were made from wood panels like a book case with that screen over the front so they heat could come out, all painted the same as the rest of the walls in the house. The top was open, like a bookshelf, and frequently had a cat on it in our house (there were several scattered about; also good for lamps and the occasional small statue...).
@@bobbob8229 Especially on radiators!! And one had afternoon sunshine.
@@bobbob8229 Don't ask a Maker how to make stuff from cats...!! 😎
I think that the radiator cover sheet goods is thinner, with smaller holes . The brass looks more like the stuff used for forced air floor vent covers. (At least in my experience of 75+ years in Toronto)
Kind of surprised Quinn didn't hand form a guard out of copper after all the work she did on the boiler. .
Ah thanks - I finally get what is meant by 'radiator covers'. Being a car-guy I immediately went to car radiators and could not figure out for the life me what others were talking about. 😲
Quinn , you should not be ashamed of your work . Not everything looks like the Mona Lisa and doesn't have to . Your wood working was fine and served . You created a beautiful die filer and bench , well done . Take care .
The "not terrible" scene had me creasing 😂 Amazing stuff as always, Quinn. Curious to see what's on the next episode
The battle cry of engineers, farmers, and home DIY across the world :)
It wasn't "leaking oil", it was marking its territory. ;-)
The puns and jokes in this video were epic! Nice job Quinn.
One of the reasons that I really like her stuff. Great humor along with great instruction, a winner winner chicken fried steak dinner thing.
epic is the new normal on this channel!
I love your self-deprecating humor. I'll give another vote for link belt for smooth and quiet running machines.
This is like the story of my life, doing pretty high-precision work with basically crap tools. But Quinn has taken it to a little higher level than I have on the machine front,, have overall. It's nice to learn that I'm not the only one doing thousands or ten thousands with metal, wood, high-impact plastics, blah blah. Thank you for your corroboration for what my colleagues regard as incomparable to our daily work. Your videos are so good and pleasant that I watch some of them over again. Hey, and I've pitched in on Patreon, because you deserve it, but under a different identity, because.
Gets over the high bar of Quinn's Adequacy Award!!
As a hobbyist with limited space and various bench mounted bits of machinery (like the home made router table), I solved the 'emergency stop' situation by buying (Ebay) a metal heavy duty enclosed foot switch and attached a double output short lead to it - good for powering up and down machine and dust extraction at the same time. So in the event in wanting to cut the power A.S.A.P. especially when both hands are in use, it's pretty instantaneous.
Very cool, Quinn. It's nice that your new bench seems to be exactly the same height as the toolbox it sits next to!
Very cool Quinn, I am surprise AvE didn't appear when you uttered "Skookum!" LOL!
Achieving Not Terrible is the common ground between us woodworkers and you metal masters of precision!
Quinn. I have switched over to the link belt style V belt on most of my machines and it made a remarkable difference. Very smooth running.
Yeah me too. Anything that has a Vbelt in my shop has link belt and it's a real God send on my old atlas lathe
I have been thinking this too during this entire series. Put one on an old Craftsman drill press and I'm never going back.
Of course it might have had something to do with the belt it was replacing being decades old.
Nice outcome for a completed project. If you ever have to cut a through slot again, drill through far enough for the spur on the spade bit to penetrate the underside and then flip the stock over and drill back toward the centre. No tearout guaranteed. Cheers, Preso
I declare this video "Not Terrible ! ! ! ".... Your sense of humor was in fine form for this video ! I chuckled and laughed through pretty much all of it! Especially the "Not Terrible" fanfare ! You're too hard on yourself when it comes to the modest wood working. The only "trick" you missed out on using was stopping short and flipping the top over and drill from above using the pilots from the tip just breaking thru as described by richf419 below. As for the chisel work Paul Sellers or James Wright would have given it a "thumbs up" just fine. The basket guard is also brilliant. I'll be "borrowing" that idea if I need it in the future.
Long ago I worked in a lab testing plastic additives. We had a lab-scale plastic extrusion machine with a heated snout that caused more than a few burn accident reports to be written. I built a shield from 1/4" hardware cloth that was, in design, almost identical to yours. The number of burns produced went down considerably. However, the number of reports on small cuts caused by the edge of the hardware cloth went up a lot. Eventually we got wise and relocated the machine so it stopped being a global hazard. In the spirit of "I love your channel" I won't ask for any royalties for using my unpatented design. 😺 Cheers!
the live filling of that o-ring groove had my spine all tingling.. glad all was well..
When I was working as a mechanic I saw one of the old timers in the shop estimating v-belt lengths with one of the shop extension cords, it's flexible and wide enough to fill the Vs in most pulleys without touching the bottom. I've used the trick a fair amount myself and it works pretty well, but I don't have a lot of extension cords most of the time and I found that surgical tubing works pretty well too. :D
Beware the stretch of surgical tubing though 😔
Using a prefab work cart as a movable workbench is extremely good idea. As for your woodworking, you got the job done and it looks good.
As Quinn said, unless it makes you happy to build it, save the money and buy it. For instance, for my mini lathe, I needed a good strong stable stand to get it up and running. Yes, at some point I will find a good used roll away tool box for that purpose, but for now it's on a Wen wood working lathe stand. Stable and works nicely.
As someone in the HVAC trade and work with other trades. We have a saying, "Can't see it from my place."
From a cellulose monkey, put a flat reference on the lines you want to mortise down into. Then keeping the flat back of the chisel on there gives you an easy flat pretty edge. No criticism from me :)
Yea, I was impressed that you didn't need a mallet, so your one-good-chisel was indeed good. My only thought was that you're not holding it vertically -- you should be cutting, not scraping.
Having one very nice chisel would be better than having a drawer full of cheap ones. But I happened across the Lee Valley Tools catalog where he editorializes a lot, listing the properties of a good chisel and then concluding "most manufacturers feel that 3 out of 4 will do." He sourced a set of chisels manufactured to his sensibilities that basically give you a whole set for the price of a single Japanese Samurai chisel.
I'm not a machinist and I'm not a woodworker, but I've dabbled in both and it's either fun, or for stuff I can't otherwise get. A lot like programming, actually.
And the only reason I don't have a float-lock is I don't have the tools to build one. I barely have a use for one, but every time I use that drill press, I wish I had it.
Woodworker here. 1stly thank you for your videos. I always look forward to them as I'm busy saving money for my 1st metal lathe. Always good idea to put a bit of candle wax on a screw when driving it into hardwood. Lessens the risk of the head snapping off
That metal is what was used to box in large steam or hot water radiators. It's junk metal that is an approximation of similar sheet that would be installed in century homes.
Yeah, the Victorians used actual brass, but even with all the holes that’s too expensive these days.
Well Quinn, Your sense of humor is...
wait for it... Not terrible... 🎉😆🤓
Thanks for sharing and Best Wishes.
That belt guard looks spectacular. Really steam punk. Well done 😀
Using the shop stool as a lift is something I know I will be using in the future! Always learning something when I watch your videos!
I purchased that exact same bench. Great choice! My chisels are so sharp I can almost chisel wood with them 😅
In my eye the "ugly mesh" compliments the red paintjob wonderful!
Also the diagonal cut strip looks so great!!
You did a magnificent job there Quinn!
Terrific job Quinn. I'm sure you'll get a lot of use out of it. I get a kick out of your humour too.
Extra credit for the "skookum".
I just looked it up to find that 'skookum' is considered 'Chinook Jargon'. I always thought it was just a word made up by AvE.
@@kindabluejazz As far as I am aware it is an indigenous word that means "fast water" or "good". But I have no particular authority on that. It's just what I was told.
Quinn, that was a solid job on the dead tree carcass. I've seen so called wood workers whom didn't own a single sharp chisel. Instead they roughed the opening with a saw, and finished with a router.
Functional….. AND…. artistic ( love the brass filigree guard ).
A ‘heritage’ machine through and through
👏👏👏👏
Regards
Robert
"I just eyeballed it" the woodworking's getting to ya quin.. 😂 love the wire basket! That's genius!
That is far from not terrible, it's looks very fitting for a machine and setup from The early 1900s
I notice that your woodworking efforts have greatly increased your vocabulary of "eh, that's not all that important" words.
@ 8:30 You could mount the hinge open and lying down, and drill a recess for bolt heads. Love your builds.😀
I remember when I got my first chisel. I had to flatten the oil stone before I used it and spent hours sharpening it. 7 year old me was so proud. Still got that chisel but its had baby's and now Im a proud father of 15 little wood munchers
Quinn, I have to say, as a woodchuck, that you are far better at woodworking than I am at machining. :) As for the float lock vise... I want one every time you show it, but then I look at commercial pricing and go back to buying very expensive joinery saws instead. :)
Love the finished project! Putting the motor underneath was a great idea. One tip you probably won't see in a wood person video - sheet metal screws actually hold just as well in wood as wood screws, sometimes better. From a USDA report from the 30's or 40s, believe it or not. The straight vs tapered shank just hold better. Wood screws are tapered because that's just the way they've always made them. Note that modern wood structural screws are not tapered. ANYWAY - I just stock round head sheet metal because they'll work for both wood and metal, and they won't pull metal brackets out of whack.
Easy way to prevent tear-out is to score the perimeter with a razor knife before taking the tools to it. Works very well with hardwood, not so well with steel.🙃
That decorative brass sheeting is used to make old school steam radiator covers in houses. Always nice to see a fellow draftsperson using CAD..
Speaking as one of those woodworkers who's been the recipient of much good-natured Quinn shade over the years: at the point when I become as good a machinist as you (which ain't never gonna happen) then I'll have the basis for tossing darts at your woodworking skills.😀
Your content continues to grow in style, charm, and humor. Very much enjoying the show - thank you for your efforts.
Great outcome Quinn, that guard is a work of art, to be fair. If it keeps the pinkies attached, mission accomplished! ✌🇦🇺
Thank you Quinn!
22:38 My wife and I are BBC Father Brown Mystery fans…….she’s sure those screens are for Confessionals….and copyright free😎
HI Quinn the way that I minimize tear out when using a paddle bit is drill like you did until the tip just breaks through then drill from the other side, it works well.
Rich
Premium sass in this episode is highly recommended viewing ❤
The brass guard really gives nice 1900s vibes! Don't be harsh on you for the woodworking, you got out of your comfort zone and it worked out well.
What triggered my OCD was the woodscrew with the washer mounted to the sloped casting....
A Great Build! The next thing I believe I would consider adding would be a small goose-neck vacuum head that can keep the shavings from the filing clear and out of they way (and your lungs)!! Once again, Great Build!
I could be way wrong, but I believe the clover patterned metal sheet is for old school furnace intake duct. I have seen similar grating in old houses.
The motor guard was brilliant, well done whom ever suggested that.
The crappy guard material gives it a quite fancy look! 😍
Awesome video as always. A quick tip regarding the blowout when drilling wood: You can clamp a piece of sacrificial wood on the side the drill will exit to support the fibers. This will give you really crisp edges 99% of the time, but it can be a little awkward to get the board in place when your drilling in the center of a large piece.
In old houses we used that brass message when making radiator covers. Make a wood box and use the brass stuff for the front.
Although I don't read the comments, if some don't "like" your woodworking, it's their problem not yours. That is a FUNCTIONAL bench, not a fine, museum quality piece of furniture. Well done - from a retired woodworker.
Great Idea with the Stool Jack. I while back I bought a small mortocycle hydraulic scisor lift with casters. It is so useful when all your 'friends' are mysteriously absent when you might need an extra pair of hands. I have used that for all sorts of simular jobs, even using it to jack up one end of a very large bench, so I could llift it just enough from the other side to drag the bench to a new location in the shed. But your stool offers the comfy option when no lifting is required.
Excellent finish to a great project. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Awesome video. For drilling the holes in the wood, I'd recommend a pilot hole and forstner bits, done from both sides to the centre.
Gives me a perfect finish every time, no tear out, no backing board needed.
Woodworkers trick: drill a small pilot hole clear thru, use the paddle bit to drill most of the way thru, using the pilot hole as a guide. Flip the piece over and drill thru from the other side using the same pilot holes. Presto-change-o! No tear out!
Nice work!
That cage around the motor is really smart, I bet you can even oil through those gaps. Nice!
this is an excellant wrap up to the awesome die filer build. really brought it home strong. thanks for sharing. love your channel.
Hi Quinn. FYI, a rule of thumb with o rings is: The cross section should be compressed by 25% and the groove volume should be filled by about 60-70% (90% is the absolute maximum). These numbers apply for a typical o ring seal which is rated for 100ish bar, so they can be tweaked for less demanding applications. And a 15-30 deg lead in chamfer is generally needed to guide the o ring into the bore. In case you wanted to do more math… 🙃
Woohoo! More Blondihacks :)
You made me lol with the "Not Terrible " flourish.
Not terrible as usual.
And I liked the thinky fingers as I also occasionally think.
Thanks and Meow to Sprocket.
Quinn scooping a hole i wood with a spoon ;) Turned out beautiful love the safety storage basket!
My boys (6 and 8) have recently discovered inspector gadget and loved the reference. Excellent video as always!
Alright, been watching for a few years now. Love the channel. But you just made me an even bigger fan by using one of my favorite words: skookum!
If the legs are hollow fill them with dry sand or dry concrete (or both!). I have found that can really help with resonance in benches.
This is pretty much like an industrial sewing machine setup. They also have rubber mounts on the motor, and machine head.
Nice to see the die filer has its home, Great work
We used that same mesh when building a built-in bench that has a return air vent underneath it. works great with some stained wood around it.
Giving the steel length in microns is a power move.
That would be nice to being measured accurately. Lol.
You're too hard on yourself Quinn, that's an excellent job! That's an awesome little sheet metal break you have there, have you done a video or anything about it? Would love to see what it's capable of doing.
Again, great video plus your sense of humour makes me lol all the time. 👏👍
Quinn The Beltguard specially the long Strip.. admit it was planned that Way !😉That "strange" Design is just a cool Feature
Nice job Quinn. Just for future reference, Multicore make an excellent Aluminium solder wire, Alusol 45D Tin Lead Silver, 100gram roll and cheap!
Great finish! I enjoyed this build series. Might suggest that you paint the belt guard the same color as the die filer - would help blend the appearance, IMHO.
The results are great.
I do have one little nit to pick. The open mesh of the belt guard might allow fillings and other debris to contaminate the belt or motor.
I find your content and presentations quite enjoyable.
Thanks for sharing
I follow both machinists and woodworkers on youtube, and I really enjoyed you crossing the streams for a moment there :)
As you are using imperial bananas as a metric conversion you could possibly borrow Curtis' (Cutting Edge Engineering) banana calibrated micrometer and vernier caliper for future projects. Postage costs (time and money) may be prohibitive though. Just a thought.
A small drill in each corner of the slot to transfer the corner marks to the other side works really well too
A plunge router and a decent bit would have made short work of cutting that slot in the worktop.
IMHO the powered wood router is about as close to "machining" as most of us woodworkers get. Just like the metalheads out there, we have to be concerned about "feeds and speeds", chip clearance, depth of cut on each pass, selecting the right sized tool for the job, and keeping it cool. Fortunately most woodworking only requires tolerances of 1/32" or so!
Just a note to say how much I appreciate your channel, the wit and charm, to say nothing of the skill, tenacity, and creativity of its host!
Quinn makes me happy
makin good ones rocks
Love your videos Quinn, now if only you had some sort of reciprocating file machine and a coarse file to clean up the slot in the wooden top... oh wait a moment.😄
I used to make custom cabinets. So, I had more than one chisel, but they were rarely as sharp as they should have been. :)
I used the Clover instead of the panels on flat panel cabinet doors in places like pantries and root bins. Just a decorative way to ad air flow to certain cabinets.
that project was nice, can't wait to see it in action (outside the few demonstrations you made ;) )
If I may suggest, you still have some room underside, you could add a drawer to keep neatly at hand the files and toolkit for the machine.
A very fine job executed and explained very well. No mockery or teasing from me, the operations were efficacious and looked decent. I kind of liked the vaguely "steampunk" vibe and there is nothing better than having your tools in easy to use set-ups!
I have a couple vintage belt-driven shop tools: a scroll-saw and a lathe. Both are for dense cellulose-based organic material machining. My motors are both gravity tensioned. I do get a slight motor bounce but nothing dramatic. I had thought of making a tensioner system but I’ve had the same belts for nearly 30 years so I think I’m ok. 😂
ManKind have been getting by with "Not Terrible" since the first two. Not Terrible ain't half bad. I have several projects that have been serving me for years that qualify as Not Terrible.
You need a cover box for the die filer to keep dust out of it when it's not used. And as a platform on which to pile assorted pieces of material and small equipment.
That's why an old pillow case is better; it doesn't get piled on.
The commentary on the video was fantastic! I had to giggle many times.