Tip for all watching. When inserting the c clips to retain the wrist pins use a small straight pick instead of a screw driver to poop the clip into the slot, much easier. Also loose the gloves during this part of the assembly, the extra feel and control helps a bunch.
The corrosion was just surface rust, which should not be an issue. They were still very solid and none of the rust was flaking off at all. Since none of the engines fluids run past them I didn't really see the need to do anything to them.
I felt the amount of corrosion was negligible and didn't affect the overall strength of the stud. Also, once I had run the die over them the threads seemed fine so there didn't seem to be a point in doing so. They might not be the prettiest, but no one will ever see them.
What was your method for removing the cylinders during tear down? A puller plate with heat and various methods of soaking the studs will not get my cylinders to move.
I was lucky in a was as my engine had been apart before so the cylinders came off easily with only a tap from a rubber mallet. I've never heard of a puller plate not working before. My only suggestion would be to continue soaking it each day, and each day give it a few raps with a mallet, and keep increasing the tension on the puller plate.
Yes, as far as I am am aware, first oversize on these is 0.5mm. You can actually go over 1mm oversize on these engines. Every bike is different in this regard. For instance the first oversize for my old 1981 RD350LC was 0.25mm.
It just occurred to my that the confusion here is that I was talking mm and you're probably thinking thousandths of an inch... when I said 50 over I meant 0.50mm, not 50 thou....
Pistons and gaskets came from eBay from a company called Cruisin' Image. Oil seals and gudgeon pin clips are OEM Suzuki from the dealer. The big end bearing were still good so I saw no reason to replace them. I believe the little end bearing were OEM Suzuki as well...
@@DOC19581 Indeed they do. However the bearings on my crank, save for one, were good, so when my machinist rebuilt the crank with new seals he just swapped the one with a good used one I had from a spare crank. The Seals are still available new from Suzuki, and given what the cost is to have the crank rebuilt it only made sense to go with the OEM ones. I don't remember them being very expensive. I also didn't use the cruizin image gudgeon pin clips for the top end as there is some question as to the metallurgy of them. I also picked up those from Suzuki I believe.
Hard to say, I can dig out the speedo to have a look but since the engine had clearly been apart before (and assembled by idiots) I have no idea how long it ran for between when they had it apart and now. I have so far had very little trouble sourcing the bits I've needed for the engine. Other bits, such as the chrome pieces on the bike are also redly available, but far more costly, forcing a lot of sifting through ebay adds and craigslist to get the right parts without having to pay an arm and a leg. This was filmed roughly at the time I posted the video, so November of 2016.
I no you not the quoting type, if you look after the first year they made a lot of changes I didn't like, like the radiator fan, easy access to the radiator cap, under the flip panel infront of the tank,a pressure relief radiator cap ,etc.
hi ,how can i take off the studys of my gt 750 . I make the puller plate and all studys be destroid. How can I take off to put new ones . thanks for any solution .
That I don't know. I didn't have to take mine out. I would imagine that at a minimum you will need a stud remover\ wrench. I would suggest asking that question on a forum as they will probably be able to give you a better answer. Try asking your question here: www.suzuki2strokes.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=2
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
I envy and don't envy the job you have ahead of you ,watching you work on that engine ,I no your bike is in good hands.well done.
Tip for all watching. When inserting the c clips to retain the wrist pins use a small straight pick instead of a screw driver to poop the clip into the slot, much easier. Also loose the gloves during this part of the assembly, the extra feel and control helps a bunch.
Fair enough, still, I had no issues using a screwdriver and keeping my gloves on.
Dude ..the sound of conrod hitting the crankcase edge while i rotate crankshaft are my worst nightmare. it sound like soul pain ! ^^
clean studs before you reassemble the bottom end.....
and as I mentioned in the video, that would have been a good idea, however I'm confident it will be just fine the way it is.
you cleaned the barrel stud threads up, but the stud shafts where not cleaned up and full of corrosion.
The corrosion was just surface rust, which should not be an issue. They were still very solid and none of the rust was flaking off at all. Since none of the engines fluids run past them I didn't really see the need to do anything to them.
Why would you not replace those studs on the 1975, you can see they're corroded, spent all the money on new pistons etc.......
I felt the amount of corrosion was negligible and didn't affect the overall strength of the stud. Also, once I had run the die over them the threads seemed fine so there didn't seem to be a point in doing so. They might not be the prettiest, but no one will ever see them.
JustFixIt99 aweffdyty
voila !
What was your method for removing the cylinders during tear down? A puller plate with heat and various methods of soaking the studs will not get my cylinders to move.
I was lucky in a was as my engine had been apart before so the cylinders came off easily with only a tap from a rubber mallet. I've never heard of a puller plate not working before. My only suggestion would be to continue soaking it each day, and each day give it a few raps with a mallet, and keep increasing the tension on the puller plate.
thank you.
You said "brand new 1st oversize piston, .050 over..." Is that correct? Yamaha Rd 350/400s were only .010 over.
Yes, as far as I am am aware, first oversize on these is 0.5mm. You can actually go over 1mm oversize on these engines. Every bike is different in this regard. For instance the first oversize for my old 1981 RD350LC was 0.25mm.
It just occurred to my that the confusion here is that I was talking mm and you're probably thinking thousandths of an inch... when I said 50 over I meant 0.50mm, not 50 thou....
Exactly.
can u port here the parts that u used to restored the bottem end ?
pistons gaskets and bearings and oil seals?
Pistons and gaskets came from eBay from a company called Cruisin' Image. Oil seals and gudgeon pin clips are OEM Suzuki from the dealer. The big end bearing were still good so I saw no reason to replace them. I believe the little end bearing were OEM Suzuki as well...
@@JustFixIt99 Cruzin Image also sells complete bottom end overhaul kits. Bearings, big end pins, seals and con rods. US $390
@@DOC19581 Indeed they do. However the bearings on my crank, save for one, were good, so when my machinist rebuilt the crank with new seals he just swapped the one with a good used one I had from a spare crank.
The Seals are still available new from Suzuki, and given what the cost is to have the crank rebuilt it only made sense to go with the OEM ones. I don't remember them being very expensive.
I also didn't use the cruizin image gudgeon pin clips for the top end as there is some question as to the metallurgy of them. I also picked up those from Suzuki I believe.
How many miles were on that engine at the time of the rebuild,I guess you can still get parts for it too.what year did you film this,.x
Hard to say, I can dig out the speedo to have a look but since the engine had clearly been apart before (and assembled by idiots) I have no idea how long it ran for between when they had it apart and now. I have so far had very little trouble sourcing the bits I've needed for the engine. Other bits, such as the chrome pieces on the bike are also redly available, but far more costly, forcing a lot of sifting through ebay adds and craigslist to get the right parts without having to pay an arm and a leg.
This was filmed roughly at the time I posted the video, so November of 2016.
I am so glad you can get parts, that's amazing
Nothing worse than a bad mechcanic, the won't do it right, do it right or stay at home, right
Suzuki actually has amazing support for its vintage bikes,
I no you not the quoting type, if you look after the first year they made a lot of changes I didn't like, like the radiator fan, easy access to the radiator cap, under the flip panel infront of the tank,a pressure relief radiator cap ,etc.
hi ,how can i take off the studys of my gt 750 . I make the puller plate and all studys be destroid. How can I take off to put new ones . thanks for any solution .
That I don't know. I didn't have to take mine out. I would imagine that at a minimum you will need a stud remover\ wrench.
I would suggest asking that question on a forum as they will probably be able to give you a better answer.
Try asking your question here:
www.suzuki2strokes.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=2