many years ago i road a mid seventies gt750 alot. i loved that bike. also had a cb750. was fun watching you assemble the bottom end. never saw it. liked what it did. thanks.
I watched every one of your videos back to back and was riveted to each one!!! Thank you very much for putting these together so very carefully AND for generously documenting any oversights you encountered along the way. You are a generous person. I just purchased a complete 1976 GT750 in South Dundas County Ontario. It’s about 80% all assembled but it has a seized engine. I also bought a 1972 parts bike - not complete. I was contemplating getting the entire engine dismantled and rebuilt by a professional and paying the mucho dollars. I am a capable mechanic but it’s often a question of time versus funds for me. Your video has inspired me to take this on myself for a few reasons: One, because you have done a tremendously wonderful job of documenting this and Two, I don’t want to chance someone not doing a perfect job (because its good enough’ish) like the hack job the former re-builder of your engine did and Three because the rebuild, not to diminish the effort and care, but seems relatively straight forward (at least the way you demonstrated it) and There no greater satisfaction than knowing it was built by your own hand and knowing it was done RIGHT. It would be appreciated if you could provide the source of all your parts and supplies - example - any bearings that were replaced, gasket kits, pistons and rings - basically from the liquid gasket to all the new parts you put on and where you got your crankshaft rebuilt. I will surely want to replace EVERYTHING I can that wears considering the effort involved and already ‘being there’. I can’t wait to pull the engine out and take it on. I promised myself to finish my other project (th-cam.com/video/scvP0wp5d2o/w-d-xo.html - second video for continued build in progress) before taking this on but I can’t wait to start - thank you. Steph Luskville Québec
It's been a little while as I was forced to mothball this project about a year and a half ago (hoping to get back to it this winter sometime), however off the top of my head" Pistons: From a company called Cruizin Image on ebay, good reputation in the forums, and as far as I know a couple guys that drag race them also use them. Don't however use the spring clips that come with them to hold the Wrist pins in. They don't seem to be made a good steel. Main Gasket set: Also cruizin image, it was the most complete set I could find and was reasonably priced Pretty much everything else, crank seals, pump gears, little end bearings, etc I have bought directly from suzuki. They have absolutely amazing support for their classic bikes and still supply a large number of parts. Also, many sites such as fortnine.ca/en/ will ship suzuki dealer parts (often for cheaper than the dealer) if you punch the suzuki part number into the search bar. You can't find them on the site other wise, only with the part number. The GT750 parts fiche's are available still online. I'm sure I've forgotten things so feel free to ask. Also, if you did like my videos, please share, like, and subscribe!
@@JustFixIt99 Thank you so much! I really appreciate the information and getting back to me so quickly. How about tools to dismantle the block? Also I have subscribed and liked :) Thanks a TON!
I did not have to use anything I would consider a special tool during disassembly and reassembly. Pretty much a basic socket set will provide all the tools required. That being said, some have had great difficulty removing the cylinders from the block. There are designs online for a puller plate that can be relatively easily made to remove the jugs if required though. I wouldn't worry about crossing that particular bridge until you come to it though. Just a heads up however, getting the crank rebuilt isn't a cheap endeavour, getting mine redone was $600+ in labour and isn't something you can do yourself. The crank bearings don't always need to be replaced. Mine needed one of them replaced, however my machinist is a GT750 aficionado and had a used one he put in for free. I also wouldn't consider not doing it as I have owned a bike previously that blew a crank seal. The piston literally shattered from running lean and destroyed the engine. The only part I could save was the cases, everything else had to be replaced.
@@JustFixIt99 This is very valuable information and I am preciously saving all of this. Can you provide the name / coordinates of the guy that did your crankshaft? I would consider sending mine to him. Thank you
@@stephanedaoust8520 Hopefully I can finish this in the next year and post some more videos on it. The machinist I use is: Routledge Enterprises 604-532-1021
...I have always been intrigued with this engine right from it's inception and interesting to see it being restored. If you would relocate the camera to the window side of the bench to view more detail of what you were actually doing as your sweater detail was given a lot of view time...looking forward to your next instalment...cheers.
Yeah, I noticed that there was a lot of sweater time in this one, the second half will be much the same since it was filmed on the same day unfortunately. I'm looking into getting a second tripod so I can use a second camera for more angles. That being said, for the next segment I film I'll definitely put the camera in a better spot.
Nice video and I've watched it with great interest as I am in the process of doing the same job on my GT750 A. One question though: why use closed roller bearings for the gear shafts instead of open bearings? I've used genuine Suzuki parts and both the new and the old bearing are of the open type. Which makes sense as they are working in an oil bath. Won't a closed bearing restrict the oil flow through the crankcase compartments? Another thing I noticed is that you have, just like like me one of the more recent types. This is noticeable by NOT having a metal plate C-ring next to the crankshaft drive gearwheel. You can't imagine how long I have been searching all my stuff looking for this "missing" part only to look at the parts catalogue later and realizing mine doesn't have one. Also I never use any anti seize compound on bolts that require tightening to a specific torque. As these compounds reduce the friction the torque setting no longer represents the actual torque and you run the risk of over tightening and stripping the thread.
Wait! Did you forget the tach gearshaft? Oh, never mind, I see you removed the sleeve, I actually never removed that because I couldn't get it out. I installed the shaft in the upper and used a bolt to hold it in because the inside of the shaft is threaded.
How does the crank transmit power to the gearbox, the large gear on the crank doesn't seem to connect to anything? Did you miss a transfer gear? Never mind, just figured it out, the clutch! This takes me back to when I re-built my Honda CB550 F2, well done, keep up the good work!
:) Hopefully when budget and time allows you'll see me put the rest of it together, which includes the clutch! I've left all the pieces off that weren't necessary to close the engine up off so so the engine isn't so heavy to lift into the frame.
I am just beginning to restore my 1977 GT550 I bought brand new-I need to watch any videos on restoring these triples-can’t a good shop manual -Clymer is not detailed enough
Hi, what did you dab on @21:20 ? Cheers and thanks but putting these videos up. Helps a LOT! I'm rebuilding a Yamaha XJ550 and never done anything thing like this before. Just the occasional car service.
As mentioned, I coated all the bolts with anti seize. Just makes them come out easier next time. It's not required but is a good practice if you remember to do it. It's also good to use it on any frame\suspension bolts as these too like to rust into place. Glad to hear the video was helpful. Bikes are a great way to learn to rebuild engines, there cheap and pretty simple. Good luck!
Hi friend ,a 1972 cranck its normal have side play on botton of con rub? I just bay a used one on ebay and i think its bad . The 1972 suzuki gt have walshers on botton side by side of con rub. The older dont side play almost nothing ,i just have to change the bering seals .I think its gona be more easy buy other ,.... iam wrong i think.
I had a local highly skilled machinist do it. Helps that he’s also a GT750 aficionado. If your local to the lower mainland in BC I’ll happily pass along his name.
The best way is probably to ask here www.suzuki2strokes.com/forum/index.php Odds are there is a member in your area that has had a crank done and can recommend a shop. If your in BC Canada I can recommend one for you.
@@flaviocarpalhoso Its been years since I put that part back together, so Id be hard pressed to remember. You're probably best to look through parts diagrams like the one I've linked below. Places I can think of off hand that would have a small lip seal would be: the shift shaft, clutch pushrod, and kickstart. www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/l/suz/5ff8a33387a86618d07840e6/1976-gt750-parts
There is a possibility that that could have saved time, but things can also move after a test fit when you separate the cases to apply the sealant. So it sort of is what it is. Either way its not a big deal, I just separated the cases, fixed the issue, applied some more sealant where necessary and fitted them together again.
@@JustFixIt99 i noticed my transmission bearings on gt 185 didnt have any locking pins. Would i use that 3bond where the outter surfaces of the bearing meet the case? Also im reusing my crank bearings and seals they looked and felt find ran fine. Should i use just a dab of that 3bond over my crank seals surface area that meets my case? My oil pump shaft and kickstater worm gear was broken.
Well I can't speak directly to the GT185 as I've never rebuilt one, but the transmission shafts on the GT750 are located by the half moon clips the sit in the crankcase grooves. These correspond to the grooves in the bearings on the transmission shafts. The Parts diagram for a GT185 I found shows the same alignment system for your transmission The diagram also shows the the transmission shaft is sealed with with a lip seal on one side of the engine and a plastic plug (disk) on the other. As such you don't need any sealant around the bearings, and I wouldn't recommend putting any there either as it could interfere with them sitting properly in their machined bores. The only spot I might consider putting a little is a very light smear around the circumference of the plug\disk to seal it.
@@JustFixIt99 you are correct on the half moon brass bushing with a half moon clip. I do know what plastic plug you are refering too. So no 3bond even on the sealing surfaces of the crank seals where the meet the cases ( very lightly). Nice work by the way! What did you use the clean those cases up so nicely?
I bought it from my local motorcycle dealership. Any dealer should carry it. Hondabond, yamabond etc. all are just name brands of the same stuff. It's just case sealant.
Generally a fair statement. We'll see how she does. Seeing as the cooling system is relatively low pressure, and the transmission has no working pressure, it should be alright.
+: : the pistons, gaskets, and other parts that are NLA, I have used eBay for. The rest however have come directly from Suzuki, they have excellent support for older bikes.
many years ago i road a mid seventies gt750 alot. i loved that bike. also had a cb750. was fun watching you assemble the bottom end. never saw it. liked what it did. thanks.
I watched every one of your videos back to back and was riveted to each one!!!
Thank you very much for putting these together so very carefully AND for generously documenting any oversights you encountered along the way. You are a generous person.
I just purchased a complete 1976 GT750 in South Dundas County Ontario. It’s about 80% all assembled but it has a seized engine. I also bought a 1972 parts bike - not complete.
I was contemplating getting the entire engine dismantled and rebuilt by a professional and paying the mucho dollars. I am a capable mechanic but it’s often a question of time versus funds for me. Your video has inspired me to take this on myself for a few reasons:
One, because you have done a tremendously wonderful job of documenting this and
Two, I don’t want to chance someone not doing a perfect job (because its good enough’ish) like the hack job the former re-builder of your engine did and
Three because the rebuild, not to diminish the effort and care, but seems relatively straight forward (at least the way you demonstrated it) and
There no greater satisfaction than knowing it was built by your own hand and knowing it was done RIGHT.
It would be appreciated if you could provide the source of all your parts and supplies - example - any bearings that were replaced, gasket kits, pistons and rings - basically from the liquid gasket to all the new parts you put on and where you got your crankshaft rebuilt. I will surely want to replace EVERYTHING I can that wears considering the effort involved and already ‘being there’.
I can’t wait to pull the engine out and take it on. I promised myself to finish my other project (th-cam.com/video/scvP0wp5d2o/w-d-xo.html - second video for continued build in progress) before taking this on but I can’t wait to start - thank you.
Steph
Luskville Québec
It's been a little while as I was forced to mothball this project about a year and a half ago (hoping to get back to it this winter sometime), however off the top of my head"
Pistons: From a company called Cruizin Image on ebay, good reputation in the forums, and as far as I know a couple guys that drag race them also use them. Don't however use the spring clips that come with them to hold the Wrist pins in. They don't seem to be made a good steel.
Main Gasket set: Also cruizin image, it was the most complete set I could find and was reasonably priced
Pretty much everything else, crank seals, pump gears, little end bearings, etc I have bought directly from suzuki. They have absolutely amazing support for their classic bikes and still supply a large number of parts. Also, many sites such as fortnine.ca/en/ will ship suzuki dealer parts (often for cheaper than the dealer) if you punch the suzuki part number into the search bar. You can't find them on the site other wise, only with the part number. The GT750 parts fiche's are available still online.
I'm sure I've forgotten things so feel free to ask. Also, if you did like my videos, please share, like, and subscribe!
@@JustFixIt99 Thank you so much! I really appreciate the information and getting back to me so quickly. How about tools to dismantle the block? Also I have subscribed and liked :) Thanks a TON!
I did not have to use anything I would consider a special tool during disassembly and reassembly. Pretty much a basic socket set will provide all the tools required. That being said, some have had great difficulty removing the cylinders from the block. There are designs online for a puller plate that can be relatively easily made to remove the jugs if required though. I wouldn't worry about crossing that particular bridge until you come to it though.
Just a heads up however, getting the crank rebuilt isn't a cheap endeavour, getting mine redone was $600+ in labour and isn't something you can do yourself. The crank bearings don't always need to be replaced. Mine needed one of them replaced, however my machinist is a GT750 aficionado and had a used one he put in for free. I also wouldn't consider not doing it as I have owned a bike previously that blew a crank seal. The piston literally shattered from running lean and destroyed the engine. The only part I could save was the cases, everything else had to be replaced.
@@JustFixIt99 This is very valuable information and I am preciously saving all of this. Can you provide the name / coordinates of the guy that did your crankshaft? I would consider sending mine to him. Thank you
@@stephanedaoust8520 Hopefully I can finish this in the next year and post some more videos on it. The machinist I use is:
Routledge Enterprises
604-532-1021
Mooi werk
Greetings from Holland
A boiler fan.
saubere arbeit.....sieht echt gut aus...
...I have always been intrigued with this engine right from it's inception and interesting to see it being restored. If you would relocate the camera to the window side of the bench to view more detail of what you were actually doing as your sweater detail was given a lot of view time...looking forward to your next instalment...cheers.
Yeah, I noticed that there was a lot of sweater time in this one, the second half will be much the same since it was filmed on the same day unfortunately. I'm looking into getting a second tripod so I can use a second camera for more angles. That being said, for the next segment I film I'll definitely put the camera in a better spot.
Nice video and I've watched it with great interest as I am in the process of doing the same job on my GT750 A. One question though: why use closed roller bearings for the gear shafts instead of open bearings? I've used genuine Suzuki parts and both the new and the old bearing are of the open type. Which makes sense as they are working in an oil bath. Won't a closed bearing restrict the oil flow through the crankcase compartments? Another thing I noticed is that you have, just like like me one of the more recent types. This is noticeable by NOT having a metal plate C-ring next to the crankshaft drive gearwheel. You can't imagine how long I have been searching all my stuff looking for this "missing" part only to look at the parts catalogue later and realizing mine doesn't have one. Also I never use any anti seize compound on bolts that require tightening to a specific torque. As these compounds reduce the friction the torque setting no longer represents the actual torque and you run the risk of over tightening and stripping the thread.
It's good you let your local zoo inmates rebuild it first time but even better you're doing yourself this time!
I saw that, when you installed the crank that a bearing was not lined up, I hope you were going to see it before closing the cases.
Yup it shifted on me after I initially lined everything up. Happens to the best of us... Fixed before I bolted it together though so no harm no foul.
Only coating one half of the case is to keep from having too much sealant which could end up pushed out inside the engine
Wait! Did you forget the tach gearshaft?
Oh, never mind, I see you removed the sleeve, I actually never removed that because I couldn't get it out. I installed the shaft in the upper and used a bolt to hold it in because the inside of the shaft is threaded.
How does the crank transmit power to the gearbox, the large gear on the crank doesn't seem to connect to anything? Did you miss a transfer gear? Never mind, just figured it out, the clutch! This takes me back to when I re-built my Honda CB550 F2, well done, keep up the good work!
:) Hopefully when budget and time allows you'll see me put the rest of it together, which includes the clutch! I've left all the pieces off that weren't necessary to close the engine up off so so the engine isn't so heavy to lift into the frame.
I have a 74 JDM GT750 and the parts are few .
I am just beginning to restore my 1977 GT550 I bought brand new-I need to watch any videos on restoring these triples-can’t a good shop manual -Clymer is not detailed enough
The clymer is pretty much good only as toilette paper...
If i may ask who did the crank work, im looking for someone to do mine.
I used Routledge Enterprises out of Langley BC Canada.
Hi, what did you dab on @21:20 ? Cheers and thanks but putting these videos up. Helps a LOT! I'm rebuilding a Yamaha XJ550 and never done anything thing like this before. Just the occasional car service.
As mentioned, I coated all the bolts with anti seize. Just makes them come out easier next time. It's not required but is a good practice if you remember to do it. It's also good to use it on any frame\suspension bolts as these too like to rust into place.
Glad to hear the video was helpful. Bikes are a great way to learn to rebuild engines, there cheap and pretty simple. Good luck!
Hi friend ,a 1972 cranck its normal have side play on botton of con rub? I just bay a used one on ebay and i think its bad . The 1972 suzuki gt have walshers on botton side by side of con rub. The older dont side play almost nothing ,i just have to change the bering seals .I think its gona be more easy buy other ,.... iam wrong i think.
Who rebuilt your crank shaft? Currently in the process of rebuilding my engine now
I had a local highly skilled machinist do it. Helps that he’s also a GT750 aficionado. If your local to the lower mainland in BC I’ll happily pass along his name.
I've got all the crank seals, how would I find a shop that is competent to rebuild the crank?
The best way is probably to ask here www.suzuki2strokes.com/forum/index.php Odds are there is a member in your area that has had a crank done and can recommend a shop. If your in BC Canada I can recommend one for you.
I recently picked up a 79 750
Wanna do some deeper work on it can u recommend?
What's up. There is a very small seal I'm trying to get the location but i can't find. Can it be the shaft for the rpm?
Is it an O-Ring or a lip seal?
@@JustFixIt99 is a actual seal not O ring
@@JustFixIt99 the kit brings 8 seals and 2 are for the crankshaft and the other 4 is for covers etc but this smaller one i don't know where goes
@@flaviocarpalhoso Its been years since I put that part back together, so Id be hard pressed to remember. You're probably best to look through parts diagrams like the one I've linked below. Places I can think of off hand that would have a small lip seal would be: the shift shaft, clutch pushrod, and kickstart.
www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/l/suz/5ff8a33387a86618d07840e6/1976-gt750-parts
@@JustFixIt99 i will that's a great idea. Thanks
Shouldn't you check for fit before putting the sealant on..????
There is a possibility that that could have saved time, but things can also move after a test fit when you separate the cases to apply the sealant. So it sort of is what it is. Either way its not a big deal, I just separated the cases, fixed the issue, applied some more sealant where necessary and fitted them together again.
no bearing lock fliud on the cranck bearings. when the engine gets hot they could spin In the case's, had this happen on an H2.
The bearings are located on metal pins that engage the bearing locking them mechanically into place. The physically are unable to spin.
Cool, wish the H2 was like that.
@@JustFixIt99 i noticed my transmission bearings on gt 185 didnt have any locking pins. Would i use that 3bond where the outter surfaces of the bearing meet the case? Also im reusing my crank bearings and seals they looked and felt find ran fine. Should i use just a dab of that 3bond over my crank seals surface area that meets my case? My oil pump shaft and kickstater worm gear was broken.
Well I can't speak directly to the GT185 as I've never rebuilt one, but the transmission shafts on the GT750 are located by the half moon clips the sit in the crankcase grooves. These correspond to the grooves in the bearings on the transmission shafts. The Parts diagram for a GT185 I found shows the same alignment system for your transmission
The diagram also shows the the transmission shaft is sealed with with a lip seal on one side of the engine and a plastic plug (disk) on the other. As such you don't need any sealant around the bearings, and I wouldn't recommend putting any there either as it could interfere with them sitting properly in their machined bores.
The only spot I might consider putting a little is a very light smear around the circumference of the plug\disk to seal it.
@@JustFixIt99 you are correct on the half moon brass bushing with a half moon clip. I do know what plastic plug you are refering too. So no 3bond even on the sealing surfaces of the crank seals where the meet the cases ( very lightly). Nice work by the way! What did you use the clean those cases up so nicely?
hello you tell to use three bond 1216 were do you buy these stuff
I bought it from my local motorcycle dealership. Any dealer should carry it. Hondabond, yamabond etc. all are just name brands of the same stuff. It's just case sealant.
When does cam go in?
Never, its a two stroke, therefore it doesn't have a camshaft.... or in this case any valves of any kind.
@@JustFixIt99 I was being phesiciouse, hahahah
Dude don't use harbor freight o-rings! Un less you like to do it twice.
Generally a fair statement. We'll see how she does. Seeing as the cooling system is relatively low pressure, and the transmission has no working pressure, it should be alright.
no gasket or sealant?
As mentioned and shown in the video the two case halves are sealed using a specific engine case sealant.
Apologies, I missed that part. Note to myself - pay attention! Great videos by the way and a valuable reference for owners carrying out rebuilds
Glad to share what I'm up to.
So no gasket just the sealant?
What website are your using for Parts ?
+: : the pistons, gaskets, and other parts that are NLA, I have used eBay for. The rest however have come directly from Suzuki, they have excellent support for older bikes.
can u get me the direct link from suzuki to order some parts
I just got my halves split. Where did you get your crankshaft parts?
Same here please...